JP3572865B2 - Latent three-dimensional crimp self-extending yarn, method for producing the same, and composite yarn - Google Patents

Description

ここで、Ｄ：延伸後デニール（ｄ）
Ｋ：仮ヨリ数（Ｔ／ｍ）
また、この延伸仮ヨリ時には、摩擦仮ヨリツイスターを用いることが、糸加工の生産性向上および主に毛羽発生に関する糸質問題の点から有効であり、例えば３軸フリクションツイスターやベルトニップツイスターが好ましい。
【００３４】
上記条件で延伸仮ヨリした後、引き続いてオーバーフィード条件下で収縮熱処理を施し、仮ヨリによる捲縮およびトルクを潜在化させ、見掛け上捲縮を有さないフラットヤーンとなし、染色加工工程で自己伸長性と同時に３次元捲縮発現を示す状態にするものである。なお、捲縮発現処理は、染色加工工程に限定されるものではなく、これらに準ずる熱処理によっても可能である。
【００３５】
自己伸長性と同時に３次元捲縮発現を示す状態とは、延伸仮ヨリによって繊維の結晶部および非晶部が繊維軸方向や仮ヨリ加撚歪み方向に配向した後、収縮熱処理により結晶部は繊維軸方向と仮ヨリ加撚歪み方向に成長せずに配向したまま非晶部が十分に緩和した状態にあるものと思われるが、推定の域はでない。
【００３６】
ここで非晶部を十分に緩和させるためには、収縮熱処理時のオーバーフィード率を２５％以上とすることが重要である。２５％未満では染色加工工程で３次元捲縮の発現は認められるものの、同時に自己伸長性を示さなくなるため好ましくない。
【００３７】
また自己伸長性を持たせるためには、先にも述べたように、収縮熱処理時に繊維の結晶化を急激に促進させずにかつ非晶部を十分に緩和させることが重要であり、このため収縮熱処理温度は仮ヨリ加工時の受熱温度（加熱温度）（ＴＫ）に対し、プラス４０℃以上、１７０℃以下とすることが重要である。プラス４０℃に満たなければ十分なオーバーフィード条件が取れないため、非晶部の緩和が不足して自己伸長性を示さなくなり、またプラス１７０℃を越えると結晶化が促進し自己伸長性を示さなくなるため好ましくない。
【００３８】
この収縮熱処理時には通常の接触式プレートヒータを用いてもよいが、好ましくは非接触式ヒータを採用することが糸加工性の安定のため好ましい。
【００３９】
図１は、本発明に係る潜在３次元捲縮発現性自己伸長糸の一例を示す側面図であり、図２は、本発明に係る潜在３次元捲縮発現性自己伸長糸を熱処理により３次元捲縮発現と自己伸長発現した状態の一例を示す側面図である。
【００４０】
また、図３は、本発明における潜在３次元捲縮発現性自己伸長糸の製造方法の一例を示す概略工程図である。
【００４１】
図３において、ポリエステル高配向未延伸糸１は、ガイド２を介して、供給ローラ３に供給され、１次ヒータ４により加熱されるとともに、仮ヨリツイスター５により仮ヨリが付与されつつ供給ローラ３と第１の送り出しローラ６との間で延伸される。第１の送り出しローラ６から送り出された糸条は第２の送り出しローラ８との間でオーバーフィードされつつ２次ヒータ７により加熱され、ワインダー９に巻き取られるようになっている。
【００４２】
【実施例】
次に、本発明を実施例および図面により具体的に説明するが、本発明はこれにより限定されるものではない。なお本文中および実施例記載の各物性値は以下の測定方法によるものである。
【００４３】
（１）伸縮伸長率（ＣＳ）および伸縮弾性率（ＣＤ）
ＪＩＳ−Ｌ１０９０ 伸縮性Ａ法に準ずる（詳細は以下の通り）
試料を乾燥機に入れて荷重をかけない状態下に乾熱１８０℃で１０分間処理する。試料を取り出して冷却後、試料の上端をクランプで固定し、２ｍｇ／ｄの初荷重をかけて垂下し、３０秒後上部クランプから正しく２０ｃｍ（ＬＣ１）を量って印を付け、次に０．１ｇ／ｄの荷重をかけて３０秒後の試料の長さ（ＬＣ２）を測り、除重後、２分間放置して再び初荷重をかけて３０秒後の試料の長さ（ＬＣ３）を測り、次の式によって伸縮伸長率（％）および伸縮弾性率（％）を算出する。試験回数は２０回とし、その平均値を少数点以下１けたまでで表す。
【００４４】
伸縮伸長率＝｛（ＬＣ２−ＬＣ１）／ＬＣ１｝×１００
伸縮弾性率＝｛（ＬＣ２−ＬＣ３）／（ＬＣ２−ＬＣ１）｝×１００
なお、試料の長さが十分にないときは初荷重下の試長（ＬＣ１）を任意とする。
【００４５】
（２）自己伸長率（ΔＳＨ）
試料に０．１ｇ／ｄの荷重を掛け、その長さＬ１（ｍｍ）を測定する。次いでその荷重を取り除き、試料を乾燥機にいれて乾熱１８０℃で１０分間処理する。試料を取り出して冷却後再度試料に０．１ｇ／ｄの荷重をかけ、その長さＬ２（ｍｍ）を測定する。上記Ｌ１、Ｌ２を下記式に代入し１８０℃自己伸長率（ΔＳＨ）を算出する。なお、測定回数５回の平均値をもってその測定値とする。
【００４６】
ΔＳＨ（％）＝｛（Ｌ２−Ｌ１）／Ｌ１｝×１００
（３）沸水収縮率（ΔＳＷ）
試料を枠周１．１２５ｍの検尺機を使用し、１／３０（ｇ／ｄ）の初荷重をかけて巻き返し、巻き回数が１０回のかせを作る。このかせに０．１（ｇ／ｄ）の荷重をかけ、その長さＬ３（ｍｍ）を測定する。次いで試料をガーゼ等に包んだ状態でバスに入れ、沸騰水常圧９８℃で１０分間処理する。試料を取り出して自然乾燥後再度０．１ｇ／ｄの荷重をかけ、その長さＬ４（ｍｍ）を測定する。上記Ｌ３、Ｌ４を下記式に代入し、沸水収縮率を算出する。なお、測定回数５回の平均値をもってその測定値とする。
【００４７】
ΔＳＷ（％）＝｛（Ｌ３−Ｌ４）／Ｌ３｝×１００
（４）複屈折率
通常の偏光顕微鏡コンペンセータを用いて干渉縞法により測定する。
【００４８】
（５）自然延伸倍率（ＮＤＲ）
ＩＮＳＴＲＯＮ社製の引張り試験機を用いて、試長２０ｃｍ、初荷重０．１ｇ／ｄ、引張り速度２０ｃｍ／ｍｉｎの条件で糸の引張り試験を行い、強伸度曲線を得る。強伸度曲線上で一定強力伸張領域の延長線と同伸張領域を越えて破断に至る立上がり部分の延長線との交点の伸度を読みとる。なお、測定回数５回の平均値をもってその測定値とする。
【００４９】
（実施例１）
ポリエチレンテレフタレートを紡速３０００ｍ／ｍｉｎで溶融紡糸し、５５デニール２４フィラメントで複屈折率が３５×１０^−３、ＮＤＲが５３％の高配向未延伸糸を得た。この高配向未延伸糸（ガラス転移点７７℃）を用い、図３に示す工程で仮ヨリツイスターに３軸フリクションツイスターを使用して、表１に示す条件下で加工した。
【００５０】
得られた加工糸を荷重をかけない状態下で乾熱１８０℃で１０分間処理したところ、図２に示すように、微細な捲縮を発現すると共に、自己伸長性を示し、糸条は嵩高性に富んでおり、伸縮伸長率は５．３％、伸縮弾性率は７９．２％、自己伸長率は３．５％であった。
【００５１】
該収縮熱処理糸と沸水収縮率９．７％のポリエステルマルチフィラメント通常延伸糸５０デニール２４フィラメントをＨｅｍａｊｅｔ製タスランノズルを使用し、常温の高圧空気流にて混繊加工し、１０５デニール４８フィラメントを得た。この糸に通常法で８００Ｔ／ｍの撚糸を施し、タテおよびヨコ糸に用い、綾羽二重を製織した。製織した布帛をリラックス精練した後、１８０℃でセットし、１７％のアルカリ減量加工を施し、引き続き液流染色機を用い分散染料で染色した後１６０℃でファイナルセットした。得られた織物は適度な膨らみと張り腰を有しており、特に微妙な表面タッチと反発性にすぐれた風合いを有するものであった。またこの織物の表面を走査型電子顕微鏡を使用して観察したところ、収縮熱処理糸が微細な捲縮を発現していることが確認された。
【００５２】
（実施例２）
実施例１で用いたのと同じ５５デニール２４フィラメントの高配向未延伸糸を用い、１次ヒータ温度を７０℃とし、その他の条件は表１に示す条件下に図３に示す工程で加工した。得られた加工糸を荷重をかけない状態下で乾熱１８０℃で１０分間処理したところ、微細な捲縮を発現すると共に、自己伸長性を示し、伸縮伸長率は７．８％、伸縮弾性率は７２．３％、自己伸長率は１．０％であった。
【００５３】
（比較例１）
実施例１で用いたのと同じ５５デニール２４フィラメントの高配向未延伸糸を用い、１次ヒータ温度を１５０℃とし、その他の条件は表１に示す条件下に図３に示す工程で加工した。得られた加工糸を荷重をかけない状態下で乾熱１８０℃で１０分間処理したところ、微細な捲縮の発現は見られたが、自己伸長性は示さず、熱収縮性の糸であった。この糸の伸縮伸長率は１３．８％、伸縮弾性率は６８．１％、自己伸長率は−８．２％であった。
【００５４】
（比較例２）
実施例１で用いたのと同じ５５デニール２４フィラメントの高配向未延伸糸を用い、仮ヨリツイスターにスピンドルタイプを使用して、仮ヨリ数を１８００Ｔ／ｍに変更し、その他の条件は表１に示す条件下に図３の工程で加工した。得られた加工糸を荷重を掛けない状態下で乾熱１８０℃で１０分間処理したところ、自己伸長性は示したものの、捲縮発現は不十分であった。この糸の伸縮伸長率は１．３％、伸縮弾性率は８７．２％、自己伸長率は２．０％であった。
【００５５】
この収縮熱処理糸と沸水収縮率９．７％のポリエステルマルチフィラメント通常延伸糸５０デニール２４フィラメントをＨｅｍａｊｅｔ製タスランノズルを使用し、常温の高圧空気流にて混繊加工し、１０５デニール４８フィラメントを得た。この糸を用い実施例１と同一条件で綾羽二重を製織し、精練−セット−アルカリ減量−染色−ファイナルセットした。得られた織物は適度な膨らみを有していたがヌメリ感のある風合いを持つものであった。またこの織物の表面を走査型電子顕微鏡を使用して観察したところ収縮熱処理糸はほぼストレートであることが確認された。
【００５６】
（比較例３）
実施例１で用いたのと同じ５５デニール２４フィラメントの高配向未延伸糸を用い、収縮熱処理率を２０％とし、その他の条件は表１に示す条件下に図３に示す工程で加工した。得られた加工糸を荷重をかけない状態下で乾熱１８０℃で１０分間処理したところ、微細な捲縮の発現は見られたが、自己伸長性は示さず、熱収縮性の糸であった。この糸の伸縮伸長率は６．３％、伸縮弾性率は７３．２％、自己伸長率は−１３．１％であった。
【００５７】
（比較例４）
実施例１で用いたのと同じ５５デニール２４フィラメントの高配向未延伸糸を用い、延伸倍率を１．１倍とし、その他の条件は表１に示す条件下に図３に示す工程で加工したが仮ヨリ張力が変動し、しばらくするうちに糸切れが発生しサンプリングできなかった。
【００５８】
（比較例５）
実施例１で用いたのと同じ５５デニール２４フィラメントの高配向未延伸糸を用い、２次ヒータ温度を５０℃とし、その他の条件は表１に示す条件下に図３に示す工程で加工を試みたが、２次ヒータ入口で走行糸がたるみ、糸切れが発生してサンプリングできなかった。
【００５９】
（比較例６）
ポリエチレンテレフタレートを紡速５０００ｍ／ｍｉｎで溶融紡糸し、７５デニール３６フィラメントで複屈折率が８５×１０^−３、破断伸度６０％の糸を得た。この高配向未延伸糸を用い、図３に示す工程で加工を試みたが、２次ヒータ入口で走行糸がたるみ、糸切れが発生してサンプリングできなかった。
【００６０】
【表１】

【００６１】
【発明の効果】
上述の通り、本発明の潜在３次元捲縮発現性自己伸長糸および複合糸は、織編み物とした後に通常の染色工程を施すことにより、潜在３次元捲縮発現性自己伸長糸が実質的に３次元捲縮発現と同時に自己伸長発現することによって織編み物の交錯点および表面にランダムな多層構造をもたらすことで適度なふくらみ、張り、腰およびソフト感を合わせもつ素晴らしい風合いが得られ、また上述の製造方法によれば本発明の糸が特殊な設備を用いることなく安価に安定して得られるものである。
【図面の簡単な説明】
【図１】本発明に係る潜在３次元捲縮発現性自己伸長糸の一例を示す側面図である。
【図２】本発明に係る潜在３次元捲縮発現性自己伸長糸が熱処理により３次元捲縮発現と自己伸長発現した状態の一例を示す側面図である。
【図３】本発明における潜在３次元捲縮発現性自己伸長糸の製造方法の一例を示す概略工程図である。
【符号の説明】
１：ポリエステル高配向未延伸糸
２：ガイド
３：供給ローラ
４：１次ヒータ
５：仮ヨリツイスター
６：第１送り出しローラ
７：２次ヒータ
８：第２送り出しローラ
９：ワインダー[0001]
TECHNICAL FIELD OF THE INVENTION
The present invention relates to a latent three-dimensional crimp-developing self-stretching yarn composed of polyester multifilaments, a method for producing the same, and a composite yarn. More specifically, a normal dyeing process is performed while weaving or knitting while using a flat yarn. A latent three-dimensional crimp-developing self-stretching yarn made of polyester multifilament, which can provide a fabric having an unprecedented swelling and soft feeling by exhibiting self-extensibility substantially in the three-dimensional crimp developing direction by performing The present invention relates to a production method and a composite yarn.
[0002]
[Prior art]
Conventionally, many woven and knitted fabrics using polyester multifilaments have been put on the market from thin fabrics to medium-weight fabrics. I have.
[0003]
As for the composition of the different shrinkage mixed fiber, the combination of a filament that shrinks greatly by heat treatment and a filament that shrinks little by heat treatment, while two or more yarns are both shrinkable yarns, has a sufficient shrinkage to obtain a sufficient heat shrinkage difference. Although it is necessary to increase the heat shrinkage of a large filament, it has a drawback that it tends to have a hard cored texture, although it has a swelling feeling.
[0004]
As a means to improve this point and to obtain a woven or knitted fabric rich in swelling and softness, weaving and knitting using a yarn obtained by blending or twisting a filament that shrinks by heat treatment and a filament that shows self-extensibility, Proposal for embossing a self-extensible thread on the surface of a woven or knitted fabric by heat treatment such as a processing step, for example, Japanese Patent Publication No. 61-36099, Japanese Patent Publication No. 62-60504, Japanese Patent Publication No. 3-34334, Japanese Patent Publication No. 4-1097. A number of proposals have been made, such as Japanese Patent Application Publication No. 4-18051, and a tentative effect has been obtained.
[0005]
However, in the methods proposed in these, the crystal orientation is advanced by heat treatment such as a dyeing process, and the self-extensibility is exhibited, but the self-extensible constituent filaments uniformly elongate in the fiber axis direction. As a result, not only a uniform surface feeling but also a slimy feeling peculiar to the polyester remained.
[0006]
Therefore, proposals for imparting a crimp to a yarn as a material that does not exhibit simple and uniform self-extensibility are disclosed in JP-A-8-325871, JP-A-9-3739, and JP-A-9-21026. However, since it has already crimped at the stage before the heat treatment, even if it is strong as a normal temporary twisted yarn, it may be crimped after heat treatment. Not only was the crimp developing power weak, but also because of the two-dimensional crimping, it was not possible to sufficiently exhibit bulkiness under the binding force of the fabric. Furthermore, in the production methods disclosed in these proposals, yarn processing must be performed at a low speed in order to impart crimp or potential crimp, or special equipment is required, and productivity is poor. Was something.
[0007]
[Problems to be solved by the invention]
The present invention has been made in view of the above-mentioned conventional problems, by simultaneously exhibiting three-dimensional crimp development and self-extensibility by a boiling water treatment and / or a dry heat treatment at the time of dyeing processing, or a heat treatment equivalent thereto, to obtain a woven or knitted fabric. It is an object of the present invention to provide a latent three-dimensional crimp-developing self-extending yarn made of polyester multifilament capable of providing a sufficient swelling and soft feeling, a production method thereof, and a composite yarn.
[0008]
[Means for Solving the Problems]
The method for producing a latent three-dimensional crimp developing self-extending yarn of the present invention has the following configuration to solve the above-mentioned problems. That is,
[1] A polyester multifilament unstretched yarn having a birefringence of 20 × 10 ⁻³ to 80 × 10 ⁻³ is obtained by stretching the unstretched yarn at a draw ratio of not less than the natural draw ratio (NDR) and not more than the breaking ratio plus a glass transition point plus 20. After stretching and twisting at a temperature of not more than 0 ° C. and a condition that the number of temporary twists (K) satisfies the following formula (4), the overfeed rate is 25% or more and the processing temperature (T) is the following formula (5) A method for producing a latent three-dimensional crimp-developing self-elongating yarn, comprising shrinking the yarn under conditions that satisfy the condition (1).
[0010]
[2] The method for producing a latently three-dimensional crimp-expressing self-extending yarn according to the above [1], wherein a temporary friction twister is used at the time of drawing temporary twisting.
[0011]
[3] The method for producing a latent three-dimensional crimp developing self-extending yarn according to the above item [1] or [2], wherein a non-contact type heater is used for the shrinkage heat treatment.
[0016]
BEST MODE FOR CARRYING OUT THE INVENTION
Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in detail.
[0017]
First, the latent three-dimensional crimp developing self-elongating yarn of the present invention is a flat yarn having no crimp or torque before heat treatment, but is sufficiently three-dimensional when subjected to a heat treatment in a usual dyeing process. It exhibits crimping and self-extension simultaneously.
[0018]
When the fabric is not crimped or torqued before heat treatment, not only does it have the same handling properties as ordinary polyester drawn yarn, but also the gap change at the intersection of the fabric before and after heat treatment increases, When the woven fabric is bent, compressed, or sheared, the degree of freedom is increased, and the recovery is improved, leading to an improvement in resilience. At this time, in order to sufficiently increase the gap, a three-dimensional crimp known as a normal temporary twisted yarn is effective.
[0019]
It is important that the stretch ratio (CS) is 2% or more. If it is less than this, the bulking effect is inferior. If it exceeds 10%, the feeling of flapping like a normal temporary twisted yarn is strongly preferred. Absent. Further, it is important that the elastic modulus of elasticity (CD) at this time is 60% or more, and if it is less than 60%, the bulking effect is unfavorably observed.
[0020]
The term “three-dimensional crimp” as used herein refers to a spiral or inversion structure of a single yarn of a normal provisionally twisted yarn when a folding crimp by so-called indentation molding is defined as a two-dimensional crimp.
[0021]
In addition, the present yarn exhibits self-extensibility simultaneously with the appearance of crimp, and the self-extensibility referred to here means that when heat treatment is performed without applying tension to the fiber, the yarn length after heat treatment is equal to that before heat treatment. It shows the property of becoming longer than the yarn length. That is, the gap between the single yarns is increased by elongation at the same time as the appearance of crimp by heat treatment. In addition to the improvement of the resilience described above, when the yarn and the knitted fabric are used, the apparent cover factor is dense while the gap is small. It has the effect of improving swelling and softness. Here, the larger the self-extensibility is, the larger the voids are. However, if the elongation exceeds 12% by the dry heat treatment at 180 ° C., it is not preferable because the flapping occurs.
[0022]
The fineness, the number of filaments, the cross-sectional shape, and the like are not particularly limited as long as the yarn of the present invention is composed of polyester multifilaments. For example, the third component is commonly used so as to be dyed with a cationic dye. The polymer may be a polymerized polymer, or a polymer containing the above-mentioned components or those having a difference in viscosity may be bonded by blend spinning or side-by-side. Similarly, the cross-sectional shape may be a hollow or triangular shaped cross-section yarn. You may.
[0023]
Next, the composite yarn of the present invention is constituted by at least two yarns of the latent three-dimensional crimp developing self-extending yarn and a heat-shrinkable yarn having a boiling water shrinkage of 2% or more and 20% or less. .
[0024]
When used in combination with the heat-shrinkable yarn, the latent three-dimensional crimp-developing self-elongating yarn exhibits self-extensibility simultaneously with the onset of crimp by heat treatment, but contains a heat-shrinkable yarn. Can increase the gap expansion.
[0025]
The heat shrinkable yarn preferably has a shrinkage ratio of boiling water of 2 to 20%. If the boiling water shrinkage is less than 2%, the above-mentioned mixing effect becomes difficult to obtain, and if the boiling water shrinkage exceeds 20%, the yarn length difference from the latent three-dimensional crimp developing self-extending yarn is large. Too much, too much texture or ironing, or the shrinkage is too high to increase the density when made into a woven or knitted fabric, or the strain recovery rate under load is reduced. Not only is it easy to come out, but rather, the effect of increasing the voids in the woven or knitted fabric is spoiled due to the contraction of the fiber axis, resulting in a core with a hard texture, which is not preferable.
[0026]
Here, the heat-shrinkable yarn is not particularly limited in terms of fineness, number of filaments, cross-sectional shape and the like, and may have a crimp represented by a so-called temporary twisted yarn.
[0027]
In addition, when mixed with the heat-shrinkable yarn, it is sufficient that the composite yarn is separated by ironing or the like in a later process and is bundled so as not to adversely affect the passability of the subsequent processing step. It is preferably twisted. In particular, when the so-called Taslan processing, which is a fluid turbulent flow treatment, is used when compounding the yarn of the present invention, in addition to the yarn length difference developed between the yarns constituting the composite yarn, a change in the form of the loop tone is also added. Weaving and knitting that is rich in water is obtained and is effective.
[0028]
Next, the method for producing a latent three-dimensional crimp developing self-extending yarn of the present invention will be described.
[0029]
In the present invention, as the supply yarn, for example, a polyester multifilament undrawn yarn having a birefringence of 20 × 10 ⁻³ to 80 × 10 ⁻³ obtained by a normal high-speed spinning method is used. If the birefringence of the undrawn yarn is less than 20 × 10 ⁻³ , the degree of orientation is too low, and the properties of the fiber are likely to change with time. Further, when the birefringence exceeds 80 × 10 ⁻³ , the degree of orientation becomes high, and it becomes difficult to sufficiently memorize the warp distortion during the temporary warp stretching described below, and the appearance of crimp due to heat treatment during dyeing processing Is insufficient, or the heat shrinkage after the temporary twisting of the stretch is reduced, and it is difficult to impart self-extensibility, which is not preferable.
[0030]
In the present invention, first, a polyester multifilament undrawn yarn having the above properties is simultaneously drawn at a draw ratio of not less than the natural drawing ratio (hereinafter referred to as NDR) of the undrawn yarn at a temperature lower than the glass transition point plus 20 ° C. Temporarily twist.
[0031]
If the draw ratio is less than the NDR of the undrawn yarn, the temporary twist tension is low, the processing stability is lacking, yarn breakage is likely to occur, and the molecular orientation in the fiber axis direction and temporary twist strain direction is increased. However, even if a subsequent overfeed shrinkage heat treatment is performed, it becomes difficult to impart self-extensibility, which is not preferable.
[0032]
In addition, in order to obtain a self-extensible yarn, it is important that the crystallization of the fiber is not sharply promoted while increasing the molecular orientation. For this reason, the temperature should be equal to or lower than the glass transition point + 20 ° C. during the temporary twist drawing. is important. Furthermore, in order to express sufficient three-dimensional crimp simultaneously with self-extensibility in the ordinary dyeing process, the number of temporary twists is also an important factor, and the number of temporary twists (K) satisfies the following formula (4). It is set under conditions. If the provisional twist number (K) falls below this range, the memory of the twist distortion becomes insufficient, making it difficult to obtain the desired three-dimensional crimp. Conversely, if the number exceeds the above range, the yarn processing stability will decrease. It is not preferable because it lacks.
[0033]

Here, D: denier after stretching (d)
K: Number of provisional twists (T / m)
In addition, at the time of this temporary stretching, it is effective to use a temporary friction twister in terms of improving yarn processing productivity and yarn quality problems mainly related to generation of fluff. For example, a triaxial friction twister or a belt nip twister is preferable. .
[0034]
After the stretching temporary twist under the above conditions, subsequently subjected to shrinkage heat treatment under overfeed conditions, latently crimping and torque due to the temporary twist, without a flat yarn having no apparent crimp, in the dyeing process This is a state in which three-dimensional crimping is exhibited simultaneously with self-extension. In addition, the crimp development process is not limited to the dyeing process, but can also be performed by a heat treatment corresponding thereto.
[0035]
The state of exhibiting the three-dimensional crimp simultaneously with the self-extensibility means that the crystal part and the amorphous part of the fiber are oriented in the fiber axis direction or the temporary twist twisting direction by the provisional twist, and then the crystal part is subjected to shrinkage heat treatment. It is considered that the amorphous portion is in a state of being sufficiently relaxed while being oriented without growing in the fiber axis direction and the temporary twist twist direction, but the estimated range is not.
[0036]
Here, in order to sufficiently relax the amorphous portion, it is important that the overfeed ratio at the time of the heat treatment for shrinkage be 25% or more. If it is less than 25%, although the development of three-dimensional crimps is observed in the dyeing process, it is not preferable because self-extensibility is not exhibited at the same time.
[0037]
Also, in order to have self-extensibility, as described above, it is important that the amorphous part is sufficiently relaxed without rapidly promoting crystallization of the fiber during the shrinkage heat treatment. It is important that the shrinkage heat treatment temperature is set to be higher than or equal to 40 ° C. and lower than or equal to 170 ° C. with respect to the heat receiving temperature (heating temperature) (TK) at the time of temporary twist processing. If the temperature is lower than + 40 ° C., sufficient overfeeding conditions cannot be obtained, so that the amorphous portion is insufficiently relaxed and does not exhibit self-extensibility. If the temperature exceeds + 170 ° C., crystallization is promoted and self-extensibility is exhibited. It is not preferable because it disappears.
[0038]
At the time of this shrinkage heat treatment, a normal contact type plate heater may be used, but it is preferable to employ a non-contact type heater in order to stabilize yarn workability.
[0039]
FIG. 1 is a side view showing an example of a latent three-dimensional crimp-developing self-elongating yarn according to the present invention, and FIG. It is a side view which shows an example of the state in which crimp expression and self-extension expression were carried out.
[0040]
FIG. 3 is a schematic process diagram showing an example of a method for producing a latent three-dimensional crimp-expressing self-extended yarn according to the present invention.
[0041]
In FIG. 3, a polyester highly oriented undrawn yarn 1 is supplied to a supply roller 3 via a guide 2, is heated by a primary heater 4, and is supplied with a temporary twist by a temporary twist twister 5. And the first feeding roller 6. The yarn fed from the first feed roller 6 is heated by the secondary heater 7 while being over-fed with the second feed roller 8, and is wound around the winder 9.
[0042]
【Example】
Next, the present invention will be described specifically with reference to examples and drawings, but the present invention is not limited thereto. Each physical property value described in the text and in the examples is based on the following measurement methods.
[0043]
(1) Stretch elongation (CS) and stretch elasticity (CD)
According to JIS-L1090 Stretch A method (details are as follows)
The sample is placed in a drier and treated at 180 ° C. for 10 minutes without applying a load. After the sample was taken out and cooled, the upper end of the sample was fixed with a clamp, and the sample was dropped with an initial load of 2 mg / d. After 30 seconds, 20 cm (LC1) was weighed correctly from the upper clamp and marked. Measure the length (LC2) of the sample 30 seconds after applying a load of 0.1 g / d, and after removing the weight, leave the sample for 2 minutes and apply the initial load again to determine the length (LC3) of the sample 30 seconds later. Then, the stretch ratio (%) and the stretch modulus (%) are calculated by the following formulas. The number of tests is 20 times, and the average value is represented by one digit after the decimal point.
[0044]
Stretching elongation rate = {(LC2-LC1) / LC1} × 100
Stretch elastic modulus = {(LC2-LC3) / (LC2-LC1)} × 100
When the length of the sample is not sufficient, the test length under initial load (LC1) is optional.
[0045]
(2) Self-elongation rate (ΔSH)
A load of 0.1 g / d is applied to the sample, and its length L1 (mm) is measured. Next, the load is removed, and the sample is placed in a drier and treated at 180 ° C. for 10 minutes. After the sample is taken out and cooled, a load of 0.1 g / d is applied to the sample again, and its length L2 (mm) is measured. The above L1 and L2 are substituted into the following equation to calculate the 180 ° C. self-elongation rate (ΔSH). In addition, the average value of five times of measurement is defined as the measured value.
[0046]
ΔSH (%) = {(L2−L1) / L1} × 100
(3) Boiling water shrinkage (ΔSW)
Using a measuring machine with a frame circumference of 1.125 m, the sample is rewound with an initial load of 1/30 (g / d) to make a skein with 10 turns. A load of 0.1 (g / d) is applied to this skein, and its length L3 (mm) is measured. Next, the sample is put in a bath in a state of being wrapped in gauze or the like, and is treated for 10 minutes at a boiling water pressure of 98 ° C. The sample is taken out, air-dried, and a load of 0.1 g / d is applied again, and its length L4 (mm) is measured. The above L3 and L4 are substituted into the following formula to calculate the boiling water shrinkage. In addition, the average value of five times of measurement is defined as the measured value.
[0047]
ΔSW (%) = {(L3-L4) / L3} × 100
(4) Birefringence The birefringence is measured by an interference fringe method using an ordinary polarizing microscope compensator.
[0048]
(5) Natural stretch ratio (NDR)
Using a tensile tester manufactured by INSTRON, a yarn tensile test is performed under the conditions of a test length of 20 cm, an initial load of 0.1 g / d, and a tensile speed of 20 cm / min to obtain a strong elongation curve. On the strength-elongation curve, read the elongation at the intersection of the extension of the constant strength extension region and the extension of the rising portion beyond the extension region and leading to fracture. In addition, the average value of five times of measurement is defined as the measured value.
[0049]
(Example 1)
Polyethylene terephthalate was melt spun at a spinning speed of 3000 m / min to obtain a highly oriented undrawn yarn having a birefringence of 35 × 10 ⁻³ and an NDR of 53% with 24 filaments of 55 denier. Using this highly oriented undrawn yarn (glass transition point: 77 ° C.), processing was performed under the conditions shown in Table 1 using a triaxial friction twister as a temporary twist twister in the step shown in FIG.
[0050]
When the obtained processed yarn was treated at a dry heat of 180 ° C. for 10 minutes without applying a load, as shown in FIG. 2, it exhibited fine crimp and exhibited self-extensibility, and the yarn was bulky. The stretchability was 5.3%, the stretch elasticity was 79.2%, and the self-elongation was 3.5%.
[0051]
The shrink heat-treated yarn and the polyester multifilament ordinary drawn yarn having a boiling water shrinkage ratio of 9.7% were subjected to a 50-denier 24-filament blending process using a Hemajet Taslan nozzle in a high-pressure airflow at room temperature to obtain 105-denier 48 filaments. Was. This yarn was twisted at 800 T / m by a conventional method, and used for warp and weft yarns, and Aya feathers were woven. After relaxing and scouring the woven fabric, the fabric was set at 180 ° C., subjected to a 17% alkali weight reduction treatment, subsequently dyed with a disperse dye using a jet dyeing machine, and finally set at 160 ° C. The obtained woven fabric had moderate swelling and tightness, and particularly had a delicate surface touch and a texture excellent in resilience. When the surface of the woven fabric was observed using a scanning electron microscope, it was confirmed that the shrink-treated heat-treated yarn exhibited fine crimp.
[0052]
(Example 2)
Using the same highly oriented undrawn yarn of 55 denier and 24 filaments as used in Example 1, the primary heater temperature was set to 70 ° C., and the other conditions were processed in the steps shown in FIG. 3 under the conditions shown in Table 1. . When the obtained processed yarn is treated at 180 ° C. for 10 minutes without applying a load, it exhibits a fine crimp and exhibits self-extensibility, a stretch rate of 7.8%, and a stretch elasticity of 7.8%. The rate was 72.3%, and the self-elongation rate was 1.0%.
[0053]
(Comparative Example 1)
Using the same highly oriented undrawn yarn of 55 denier and 24 filaments as used in Example 1, the primary heater temperature was set to 150 ° C., and the other conditions were processed in the steps shown in FIG. . When the obtained processed yarn was treated at a dry heat of 180 ° C. for 10 minutes without applying a load, fine crimping was observed, but it did not exhibit self-extensibility and was a heat-shrinkable yarn. Was. The stretch and elongation of this yarn was 13.8%, the stretch elasticity was 68.1%, and the self-elongation was -8.2%.
[0054]
(Comparative Example 2)
Using the same highly oriented undrawn yarn of 55 denier and 24 filaments as used in Example 1, the temporary twist number was changed to 1800 T / m using a spindle type temporary twist twister, and the other conditions were as shown in Table 1. Under the conditions shown in FIG. When the obtained processed yarn was subjected to a dry heat treatment at 180 ° C. for 10 minutes without applying a load, self-extensibility was exhibited, but crimp development was insufficient. This yarn had a stretch and elongation of 1.3%, a stretch and elasticity of 87.2% and a self-elongation of 2.0%.
[0055]
This shrink heat-treated yarn and polyester multi-filament ordinary drawn yarn having a boiling water shrinkage of 9.7% and 24 denier 24 filaments are mixed with a high temperature air stream at room temperature using a Taslan nozzle manufactured by Hemajet to obtain 105 denier 48 filaments. Was. Using this yarn, an Aya feather double was woven under the same conditions as in Example 1, and scouring-setting-alkaline weight reduction-dyeing-final setting was performed. The obtained woven fabric had moderate swelling but had a slimy texture. When the surface of this woven fabric was observed using a scanning electron microscope, it was confirmed that the heat-treated shrink yarn was almost straight.
[0056]
(Comparative Example 3)
The same highly oriented undrawn yarn of 55 denier and 24 filaments as used in Example 1 was used, the shrinkage heat treatment rate was set to 20%, and the other conditions were processed in the steps shown in FIG. When the obtained processed yarn was treated at a dry heat of 180 ° C. for 10 minutes without applying a load, fine crimping was observed, but it did not exhibit self-extensibility and was a heat-shrinkable yarn. Was. The stretch and elongation of this yarn was 6.3%, the stretch elasticity was 73.2%, and the self-elongation was -13.1%.
[0057]
(Comparative Example 4)
Using the same highly oriented undrawn yarn of 55 denier and 24 filaments as used in Example 1, the draw ratio was set to 1.1 times, and the other conditions were processed in the process shown in FIG. 3 under the conditions shown in Table 1. However, the temporary twist tension fluctuated, and after a while, thread breakage occurred and sampling could not be performed.
[0058]
(Comparative Example 5)
Using the same highly oriented undrawn yarn of 55 denier and 24 filaments as used in Example 1, the secondary heater temperature was set to 50 ° C., and the other conditions were the processing shown in FIG. Attempted, however, the running yarn slackened at the entrance of the secondary heater, and the yarn was broken, and sampling could not be performed.
[0059]
(Comparative Example 6)
Polyethylene terephthalate was melt spun at a spinning speed of 5000 m / min to obtain a yarn having 75 denier and 36 filaments, a birefringence of 85 × 10 ⁻³ and a breaking elongation of 60%. Using this highly oriented undrawn yarn, processing was attempted in the process shown in FIG. 3, but the running yarn slackened at the entrance of the secondary heater, and the yarn was broken, and sampling could not be performed.
[0060]
[Table 1]

[0061]
【The invention's effect】
As described above, the latent three-dimensional crimp-developing self-elongating yarn and the composite yarn of the present invention are subjected to a usual dyeing step after being formed into a woven or knitted fabric, whereby the latent three-dimensional crimp-developing self-elongating yarn is substantially reduced. The three-dimensional crimping and self-elongation give rise to a random multi-layer structure at the intersecting points and the surface of the woven or knitted fabric, resulting in a wonderful texture with moderate swelling, tension, waist and softness. According to the production method, the yarn of the present invention can be obtained stably at low cost without using special equipment.
[Brief description of the drawings]
FIG. 1 is a side view showing an example of a latent three-dimensional crimp developing self-extending yarn according to the present invention.
FIG. 2 is a side view showing an example of a state in which a latent three-dimensional crimp developing self-elongating yarn according to the present invention has developed three-dimensional crimp and self-elongation by heat treatment.
FIG. 3 is a schematic process diagram illustrating an example of a method for producing a latent three-dimensional crimp-expressing self-extended yarn according to the present invention.
[Explanation of symbols]
1: Highly oriented polyester unstretched yarn 2: Guide 3: Supply roller 4: Primary heater 5: Temporary twister 6: First delivery roller 7: Secondary heater 8: Second delivery roller 9: Winder

Claims (3)

A polyester multifilament undrawn yarn having a birefringence of 20 × 10 ^-3 to 80 × 10 ^-3 is drawn at a draw ratio of not less than the natural draw ratio (NDR) of the undrawn yarn and not more than the breaking ratio and the glass transition point plus 20 ° C. or less. After stretching at a temperature and under a condition that the provisional twist number (K) satisfies the following formula (4), the overfeed rate is 25% or more and the processing temperature (T) satisfies the following formula (5). A method for producing a latently three-dimensional crimp-developing self-extending yarn, comprising shrinking the yarn under conditions.
3.16 × 10 ⁴ × 1 / D ^1/2 ≧ K ≧
3.16 × 10 ⁴ × (1 / D ^1/2 ) × 0.6 (4)
TK + 40 ≦ T ≦ TK + 170 (5)
here,
D: Denier after stretching (d)
K: Number of provisional twists (T / m)
TK: Heating temperature during temporary twisting (° C)
T: Processing temperature after temporary twisting (° C)
It is. Potential dimensional crimp of the manufacturing method of the self-extension yarn according to claim 1, characterized by using a friction false twist twister during stretching false twisting. The method for producing a latent three-dimensional crimp developing self-extending yarn according to claim 1 or 2 , wherein a non-contact type heater is used for the shrink heat treatment.

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