JP2930606B2 - Manufacturing method of ultra-soft special mixed yarn with reduced irritation - Google Patents

Description

Description: FIELD OF THE INVENTION The present invention relates to a method for producing a special mixed-woven yarn exhibiting a novel ultra-soft feel, having excellent dyeing properties, and having no "irritability".

(Prior art) Synthetic fiber yarns generally have a glass transition temperature (also referred to as a second transition temperature). Below this temperature, molecules are frozen and are difficult to move. It is common sense to set the point at or above the glass transition temperature to make the molecule easier to move and stretch. However, if the molecules below the glass transition temperature are forcibly stretched in a frozen state, the molecules will not be oriented and will have a unique texture that is completely different from the conventional drawn yarn (however, the Since it is forcibly stretched in the frozen state, it always becomes spot-stretched and cannot have a uniform appearance.) That is, stretching at a low temperature below the glass transition temperature is a method for producing a so-called thick & thin yarn itself, as disclosed in JP-A-58-44762. It is not possible.

In addition to this, the force required to stretch the frozen molecules is forced to be extremely large, and there are many problems such as slipping of the color with the rollers, fuzzing and wrapping, and the productivity of the drawn filament yarn. There is also a problem that it becomes low.

Further, as a method for producing a bulky structural textured yarn, a method of false-twisting a plurality of fiber yarns is known.
In general, false twisting is performed at a false twist temperature of 0 to 240 ° C. By using this method, different feelings can be produced depending on the yarns to be combined and the false twisting conditions, but most of them are wool-like feeling yarns having a large crimp bulkiness. It is like a drawn yarn (flat yarn) while having
Silky processed yarn is difficult to obtain.

(Object of the Invention) An object of the present invention is to provide an ultra-soft flat multifilament yarn having excellent dyeability, an extremely soft and unique feel, and a cross-section of the multifilament in a state where its polymer molecule is frozen. An ultra-soft flat multifilament yarn having a uniform appearance and performance, comprising a multifilament uniformly drawn, without changing its shape and without imparting crimp thereto, And an ultra-soft flat multifilament yarn fabric obtained therefrom.

(Structure of the Invention) That is, according to the present invention, when undrawn filament yarns having a difference in the degree of molecular orientation are aligned and drawn by false twisting, an undrawn filament comprising a group of filaments that simultaneously satisfies the following (i) to (v): Using yarn, The false twisting process is performed by setting the false twist setting temperature to room temperature or up to 78 ° C and performing simultaneous simultaneous false twisting, and heat-treating the obtained yarn at a temperature of 130 ° C or more in the subsequent process. Also, this is a method for producing a super soft special mixed yarn.

Where the features of the present invention, particularly when the birefringence of the high orientation filament group is 0.07 or more, the birefringence of the low orientation filament group is 0.03-0.06, and the latter filament denier is 0.8de or less, It has been found that a yarn having good swelling and an extremely soft touch can be obtained without concern of "irritability".

Until now, the birefringence index was 0 as a low-orientation filament group.
02 or less, especially 0.008 to 0.009, filament denier is 3.75
~ 7.5de, on the other hand, the birefringence as a group of highly oriented filaments
0.03 or more, especially 0.043 to 0.048, filament denier is 2.
It is known to use a yarn of 17 to 7.7 de (WO 89/04388). However, when such a yarn is used, that is, when the denier of the low-orientation filament is large and the birefringence between the filament groups is relatively low, the problem of irritability is solved and the swelling is imparted as in the present invention. I can't do it.

 The present invention will be described in detail with reference to specific examples.

FIG. 1A is a schematic view of a so-called undrawn yarn of a synthetic fiber. When this is heated above its glass transition temperature and pulled in a state where the constituent molecules have been frozen, it is stretched uniformly as shown in (b). However, when this is pulled below the glass transition temperature, the constituent molecules are forcibly stretched in a frozen state, so that the molecules do not align smoothly and become uneven and uneven threads as shown in (c). I will.

On the other hand, FIG. 2 shows an embodiment of drawing by the method of the present invention. As shown in FIG. 2 (d), an undrawn yarn (1) and a spun yarn (2) having a higher degree of orientation and therefore less stretchable as shown in FIG. (E) When twisting this as shown in the figure (e), the unstretched yarn (1) is easily stretched, while the spliced yarn (2 ()) is hardly stretched. (F) around the yarn (2)
As shown in the figure, the yarn is wound, and as a result, the undrawn yarn (1) is uniformly stretched by the length required for winding.

That is, as shown in FIG. 1, when the yarn is pulled at both ends and drawn,
In particular, when the molecules are frozen below the glass transition point (secondary transition point), the yarn is hard to stretch. Therefore, when this is forcibly stretched, the yarn stretches easily where it is easy to stretch, and hardly stretches hardly. However, as described above, twisting together with the auxiliary thread (2) and stretching it in the process of winding it up will cause the thread to be stretched little by little at each part. Does not occur as in the case of pulling, and the yarn is uniformly and evenly stretched at each portion of the yarn. Therefore, the film can be uniformly stretched even at a temperature lower than the glass transition temperature, and can be uniformly stretched even at a halfway low magnification which tends to cause spots.

However, in this method, when the yarn is twisted and wound, it cannot be stretched beyond the extent that it can be naturally stretched. Therefore, the conditions of the magnification at which the yarn can be stretched by itself are determined. ), The undrawn yarn (1) is wound while being slightly stretched, the undrawn yarn (1) is added with the extension of the wrapping yarn (1) in addition to the elongation of the wrapping, but even in this case, it is extremely uniform. There is a fact that it is extended. It is inferred that this is because the undrawn yarn (1) is tightly wound around the auxiliary yarn (2) and stretched while being restrained. Therefore, by adding the extension of the auxiliary thread (1), the extension rate can be adjusted to some extent.
Further, if the undrawn yarn (1) and the additional yarn (2) are entangled in advance and the twisting operation is performed as described above, the restraining relationship between the unstretched yarn (1) and the spun yarn (2) is further increased, and the uniformity is further improved. The nature increases.

FIG. 3 shows an example of a concrete implementation process of the present invention, wherein (1) is a polyester unstretched yarn of a raw material, and (2) is a polyester intermediate oriented yarn of an auxiliary yarn which is harder to stretch than both yarns. Are supplied from a pair of supply rollers (3), are entangled with each other by an air nozzle (4), and are mutually twisted by a false twisting tool (6) via an intermediate roller (5).

Incidentally, the special false twisted yarn of the present invention uses, as a raw yarn, a high-orientation yarn and a low-orientation yarn that simultaneously satisfy the following (i) to (v), for example, as shown in FIG. Can be obtained by a false twisting method.

(I) Single fiber denier of highly oriented filament group: 1.5 to 3.4 de (preferably 1.8 to 3.0 de) (ii) Birefringence (Δn) of highly oriented filament group: 0.07 or more (preferably 0.08 to 0.09) (Iii) Denier of single fiber of low orientation filament group: 0.8 de or less (preferably 0.4 to 0.7 de) (iv) Birefringence (Δm) of low orientation filament group: 0.03 to 0.06 (preferably 0.04 to 0.05) (V) The fineness ratio between the high-orientation filament group and the low-orientation filament group is from 5: 5 to 3: 7.
And the low-orientation filament group (1) are entangled with the interlaced nozzle (4) after being entangled, and then 1.1-1.1 between the feed roller (5) and the delivery roller (7). While being stretched to 1.4 times, it is false-twisted and wound up on a winder (10).

Here, at the time of false twisting, it is necessary to set the set temperature to room temperature or at most 78 ° C. and to perform false twisting.

In the present invention, the core functioning as the auxiliary thread (2) mainly serves as a tension carrier, and the group of highly oriented filaments mainly comprising this core is used to satisfy the conditions (i) and (ii). Single fiber denier (1.5 ~ 3.4de)
And when it has a birefringence (0.07 or more), it is possible to impart sufficient tension to the obtained fabric, and at the same time, to impart good wrinkle recovery. On the other hand, it corresponds to the undrawn yarn (1). The group of low-oriented filaments mainly comprising the sheath portion is (ii)
i) (iv) "Single fiber denier (0.8de or less), birefringence 0.
03 to 0.06] when the core is composed of mainly high-oriented filaments, and the low-oriented filaments mainly cover the core, which are obliquely skewed with respect to the yarn axis. A good touch and good swelling can be provided.

Further, in the present invention, the fineness ratio between the high orientation filament group and the low orientation filament group is set to 5: 5 to 3: 7. That is, the unique texture of the processed yarn according to the present invention is
The polymer molecule is stretched in a frozen state, that is,
Since it is expressed by low-orientation filaments, the fineness ratio is preferably half or more.

In the present invention, the molecules in the frozen state are forcibly stretched to give a unique super soft feeling, but among them, as the molecules before stretching are not aligned in the fiber axis direction, that is, the lower the degree of orientation, the more the stretching is performed. As it becomes more difficult, the specificity of the texture increases. On the other hand, even after dyeing, "irritation" does not occur, and further, from the viewpoint of subsequent shrinkage in the woven fabric and stability over time, the degree of orientation of the undrawn yarn is 0.03 or more in birefringence. Desirably.

The yarn stretched forcibly in this manner generally has a large internal strain and a high shrinkage in boiling water. Therefore, when used, it is necessary to reduce the shrinkage by heat treatment. The heater shown in FIG. 3 (8) is for this purpose, and its heating temperature is required to be at least 130 ° C., preferably at 160 ° C. or more for at least 0.1 second. If this heating is performed continuously after the above-mentioned stretching step, the obtained yarn can be used in any field, so it is safe. However, depending on the application, this heating is performed after forming a woven or knitted fabric. Things are also possible.

As a result, in front of the false twisting device (6), the undrawn yarn (1) passes through the false twisting device (6) while being stretched by being wound around the auxiliary yarn (2), and is unwound again. Then, they are heat-set by a heater (3) through a delivery roller (7) while they are joined together, and are wound up by a winder (10) through a take-up roller (9). When the obtained processed yarn is woven and dyed and finished, it is stretched while the molecules are frozen, so that it has a very super soft and special texture like marshmallow, which is completely different from the conventional polyester fabric. In addition, a versatile woven fabric having no unevenness in thickness or coloration can be obtained.

In the present invention, in order to obtain such a feeling, the temperature at which the constituent molecules are in a frozen state when the undrawn yarn (1) is stretched, that is, the glass transition point temperature (secondary transition point temperature) or lower. There is a need. 160 ° C, which is used for normal false twisting
Heating at a so-called thermoplastic temperature of the synthetic resin of ~ 240 ° C is, of course, useless, and at most 78 ° C or less, preferably 60 ° C
(Less than or equal to 0.6 seconds as the heat treatment time), and generally the best result is obtained when the heat treatment is performed at room temperature without applying heat as in the above-described example. In particular, for a material having a low glass transition temperature, forced cooling may be performed.

It is not essential that the unstretched yarn (1) and the auxiliary yarn (2) to be supplied are entangled in advance in this way, but the entanglement makes the unstretched yarn (1) more even as described above. It also has the effect of preventing the yarn after being untwisted after being stretched through the outer false twisting to be scattered. For the latter, in some cases, confounding after false twist untwisting may be used,
In general, confounding before false twisting has less scatter.

If the unstretched yarn (1) is stretched by a small amount, the additional yarn (2) may be stretched and added to the unstretched yarn (1) as described above. In this example, between the rollers (5) and (7) It is preferable to carry out in a stretched state, that is, in a so-called stretch false twist state. Even in this case, the undrawn yarn (1) can be uniformly stretched without forming a plaque as described above. In particular, when a false twist is given by a friction false twisting tool, a draw false twist is essential because the yarn slips. On the other hand, if it is a spindle false twist, it is not always necessary to use a stretch false twist, but in general, the friction false twist is easy to run smoothly without yarn catching.

In addition, in order for the unstretched yarn (1) to be stretched exclusively when it is twisted by false twist and only the unstretched yarn (1) is stretched, the auxiliary yarn (2) needs to be harder to stretch than the unstretched yarn (1). For this reason, a highly oriented yarn having a birefringence of 0.07 or more is preferable. As for the stretchability, it is desirable that the natural stretch ratio (expressed in terms of elongation%) is at least 40% smaller than the undrawn yarn (1).

In the present invention, with respect to the composite ratio of the undrawn yarn (1) and the spun yarn (2), the unique hand according to the present invention originally has the side [Undrawn yarn (1)] that is forcibly stretched in a molecular frozen state, that is, low orientation. Since it occurs on the inner side (= the side where the natural stretching ratio is large), it is generally better to occupy at least half. However, in the case of a fiber having a molecular orientation that is particularly difficult to stretch, it may be possible to give priority to stretchability even if the texture is sacrificed to some extent, but even in such a case, it should occupy at least 30%.

On the other hand, if the low orientation side increases too much, the high orientation side [supplementary yarn (2)] becomes too thin and it becomes difficult to form a spiral shape, and thread breakage or the like occurs, so that it is at most 80% or less. It is desirable to keep.

Also, regarding the number of false twists, in the case of the present invention, since the purpose is not to perform false twist crimping, the effect is not necessarily required even if the number of false twists is not as large as that of the conventional false twisting. For example, false twisting Although effective crimping cannot be performed with a low twist number, cold drawing of the yarn occurs in the present invention,
A reasonable effect occurs. However, as long as the material is not particularly difficult to twist, the false twist number is as small as possible, that is, the yarn is likely to break. With the following number of false twists, it is more effective to increase the stable processing as much as possible, since the yarn is stretched well. When performing false twisting by friction false twisting, it is difficult to measure the number of false twists, but D / Y may be set to a value of about 1.3 to 2.8.

 Here, De = total yarn during false twist De D: Y = surface speed of false twist disk / yarn speed during false twist processing.

(Operations and Effects of the Invention) The process of the present invention is described in JP-B-61-19733 and JP-B-56
At first glance, it is similar to the manufacturing process of the so-called false twist wound double-layer structure processed yarn shown in Japanese Patent No. 25529, but the operation and effect and the structure of the formed yarn are completely different.

That is, in the case of a false-twisted double-layered processed yarn, the yarn is wound in a temporary winding state, heated to a high temperature, and the molecules of the fiber are reoriented and crystallized in the twisted form. Heat fixed. Therefore, even if this is untwisted, winding and twisting (twisting) remain, and “winding” 2 as shown in FIG.
It becomes a layered yarn, which is characterized by a spun-like feel. On the other hand, in the method of the present invention, even if the yarn is wrapped by false twisting, it is not heated and set, so that the wrapping or twisting does not remain at all, and the yarn is formed as shown in (h). Also becomes a straight thread and does not have a spun-like structure. In other words, its structure is a filament-like straight, and it has a very soft touch that is completely different from the conventional fiber by forcibly stretching the frozen molecule, it has a swollen bulge, and it has a dye It becomes a filament yarn without irritation.

In addition, when the film is forcibly stretched at room temperature or lower at a glass transition temperature or less, the molecule is in a frozen state, and the stretching tension becomes extremely large. In particular, the molecule is not stretched like an undrawn yarn having a spinning speed of 2000 m / min or less. In those that are almost not oriented, the force is extremely large. Therefore, productivity is usually difficult because of draw wrap, yarn breakage, fluffing or slipping. However, when this is stretched with a twisting force as in the present invention, the stretching is performed smoothly, and the stretching force is mainly given by the twisting force, so of course, equipment such as a stretching machine that can turn many times on rollers, Another advantage is that even a simple one-nip roller device such as a false twisting machine can be easily stretched without any production trouble.

Further, the yarn of the present invention has an extremely soft feeling that breaks the concept of conventional synthetic fibers. Therefore, such a yarn can be suitably used especially for a high-density fabric or a thin fabric such as a blouse used for sports casual use.

In particular, when applied to polyester fibers having a relatively high modulus and thus a hard feel and a strong waist, the characteristic hardness of the conventional polyester is lost and a very soft feel, marshmallow sakura Since it becomes a filament with a soft touch like paper, its use can be expanded to inner clothing such as lingerie and baby clothing that directly touch the skin, and the merit is great.

The material used in the present invention may be any stretchable synthetic fiber, but particularly when applied to polyester fiber, its essentially hard feeling can be significantly softened and improved, or the glass transition temperature is increased. The effect of the application is enormous in that the effect of the low-temperature freeze-drawing of the present invention can be further exhibited.

Examples The present invention is further described by the following examples.

 The following measurements were made in the examples.

A boiling water shrinkage ratio (BWS) and a dry heat shrinkage ratio of the multifilament yarn were made to about 3,000 denier, and a 0.1 g / de load was applied to the skein to read the original length l ₀ (cm). The load of the skein is 2mg / de
And heat-treated in boiling water for 30 minutes, dried at room temperature, and changed the load to 0.1 g / de to change its length l ₁ (cm)
Was read. Then change the load to 2 mg / de again and
After heat treatment for 1 minute in heated air at 0 ° C., the sample was taken out, and its length l ₂ (cm) was read while changing the load to 01 g / de.

The degree of softness of the woven fabric was evaluated by bending hardness (BS), and the resilience of the woven fabric was evaluated by bending resilience (BR). Measurement method is JIS
The 6.20.3C method (rigid softness loop compression method) of L1096 was used.

The anti-pilling property was measured and evaluated using an ICI type tester shown in 4.1 of JIS L 1076 and the A method (a method using an ICI type tester) shown in the same test method 6.1.

The abrasion strength was measured according to the method shown in JIS L 1096 method A-3 (folding method) using # 600 as abrasive paper.

(Example) Polyester terephthalate having an intrinsic viscosity [η] of 0.64 and a polyester low-oriented undrawn yarn 82de / 144fila obtained by spinning at a spinning speed of 3000 m / min [birefringence: 0.045, natural drawing ratio: 45% (magnification) Elongation: 135%, glass transition point: 80 ° C, fineness: 82de, number of filaments: 144, cross section: circular] (1), and high orientation obtained by spinning at a spinning speed of 4500 m / min. Yarn 500de / 24fila (2) [birefringence: 0.08
6, natural stretch ratio: 30% (magnification 1.30 times) elongation: 75%,
Glass transition point: 85 ° C, fineness: 50de, number of filaments: 24
Were mixed at a mixing ratio of 62:38, and the mixture was supplied to an air entanglement nozzle under the conditions of overfeed: 1.0% and pneumatic pressure: 4 kg / cm ² to entangle the filaments with each other. next,
A triaxial friction false twisting device rotating at a surface speed of 630 m / min is subjected to stretching false twisting at a speed of 350 m / min, an elongation of 55%, a false twist tension of 32 g, and an untwisting tension of 37 g at room temperature ( 30 ° C) (D / Y = 1.
8) After twisting the entangled multifilament yarn, untwist it and then overfeed at 0% to 230
℃ heater (heat treatment time 0.2 seconds)
The heat shrinkage of each filament was reduced, and the obtained processed yarn was wound around a winder to obtain a yarn of 110 denier / 168 filaments.

When the yarn was observed with a microscope, no deformation was observed in the cross-sectional shape of each filament. Further, the yarn itself was non-torque, and no substantial crimp was observed in the filament, and the yarn had the same appearance as a normal mixed-woven flat multifilament yarn.

In the above processing, when only stretching was performed except for the false twist device, the required stretching tension was 120 g / d.

The properties of the obtained flat multifilament yarn were as shown in Tables 1 and 2.

Next, the obtained yarn was twisted at 800 T / m, woven in a twill structure, and dyed with a 10% weight loss.
It is completely different from the conventional polyester touch, it is a smooth and extremely flexible, light and wrinkle-free polyester fabric with a completely new sensibility, and commercialization in the super soft field where inner polyester is weak at conventional polyester fabrics It has become possible. The dyeing conditions are shown in Table 3 and the properties of the fabric are shown in Table 4.

Using this processed yarn, a dyed fabric was prepared under the following weaving conditions (texture: twill), alkali treatment and dyeing conditions.

Table 4 shows the properties of the obtained woven fabric.

Examples 2 to 4 and Comparative Examples 1 to 6 In Example 1, the physical properties of the yarn and the fabric when the conditions of the original yarn and the false twist were changed to seeds are shown in Table 5 (the data of Example 1 are also shown). Do).

[Brief description of the drawings]

FIG. 1 is a schematic diagram illustrating the conventional stretching principle, FIG. 2 is a schematic diagram illustrating the stretching principle of the present invention, FIG. 3 is a process diagram illustrating one embodiment of the present invention, and FIG. FIG. 4 is a schematic view showing a difference between the yarn of FIG. 1 and a conventional spun-like yarn. (1) Unstretched yarn (2) Spun yarn having a higher degree of orientation than unstretched yarn (1) (3) Supply roller (4) Air entangled nozzle (5) Intermediate roller ( 6) False twisting tool (7) Delivery roller (8) Heat treatment heater (9) Take-up roller

──────────────────────────────────────────────────続 き Continuation of the front page (56) References JP-A-1-124465 (JP, A) JP-A-59-116434 (JP, A) JP-A-51-123317 (JP, A) JP-A-60-1985 75631 (JP, A) JP-A-59-173322 (JP, A) JP-A-64-14331 (JP, A) JP-B-56-25529 (JP, B2) JP-B-61-19733 (JP, B2) (58) Field surveyed (Int.Cl. ⁶ , DB name) D02G 1/00-3/38 D02J 1/00-1/22

Claims (1)

(57) [Claims] (1) When aligning undrawn filament yarns having a difference in the degree of molecular orientation and performing draw false twisting,
Using an undrawn yarn comprising a group of filaments that simultaneously satisfies (v), With the false twist setting temperature set to room temperature or at most 78 ° C, simultaneous drawing and twisting is performed, and in the subsequent process, the irritation characterized by heat treatment at a temperature of 130 ° C or higher is eliminated. Manufacturing method of super soft special mixed yarn.