JPS6155225A - Special heat shrinkage different blended fiber yarn - Google Patents

Abstract

(57) [Summary] This bulletin contains application data before electronic filing, so abstract data is not recorded.

Description

[Detailed Description of the Invention] [Technical Field of the Invention] The present invention is a heat-shrinkable mixed fiber yarn containing yarns with a specific cross-sectional shape, which has a squeaky feel, an elegant luster, 9 color development, fullness, and a natural appearance. The present invention relates to a special blended yarn suitable as a yarn constituting a silky high-grade woven or knitted fabric with excellent unevenness.

[Prior art and its problems]

In a composite yarn consisting of two types of components with different solubility, the easily soluble component is arranged in a specific shape near the yarn surface, and by dissolving and removing the easily soluble component after forming the yarn or fabric, yarns with various irregular cross sections can be created. can get. For example, the present inventors have disclosed in Japanese Patent Application Laid-Open No. 55-93819 that the easily soluble component is dissolved and removed from a composite yarn in which the easily soluble component is divided into a plurality of pieces by the slightly soluble component. We have shown that it can be obtained. However, although the irregular cross-section yarn obtained by the technique shown here can give a seasonal stain effect, it tends to produce a glare and tend to have poor color development. The m-knitted fabric composed of the above has the disadvantage that it does not have the characteristics such as fullness and natural unevenness that a silky high-grade woven or knitted fabric should have.

JP-A-56-53210, JP-A-56-1125
Publication No. 35 also discloses that a yarn with an irregular cross section can be obtained by removing an easily soluble component placed at a specific position near the yarn surface, but the advantages and disadvantages of the yarn with an irregular cross section are as follows. This technique is similar to the technique described above.

Furthermore, the present inventors solved the squeaking sensation by dissolving and removing the easily soluble component placed near the apex of the multi-lobed cross-sectional shape in JP-A-57-5912 and JP-A-57-5921. Although we proposed a condition with grooves on the surface that has an elegant luster, the woven or knitted fabric made of yarns with irregular cross sections lacks fullness and has the drawback of exhibiting the monotonous appearance characteristic of synthetic fibers.

On the other hand, woven and knitted fabrics using polyester heat-shrinkable differentially blended yarns are regarded as important as high-grade silky materials because they can provide bulkiness and drapability.

Techniques related to this include Japanese Patent Publication No. 51-30620, Japanese Patent Publication No. 55-22586, and Japanese Patent Publication No. 58-3.
A large number of such methods have been disclosed, as shown in Publication No. 064 and the like. However, mixed fiber yarns that are simply given a difference in heat shrinkage are becoming obsolete, and have the drawback of not being able to respond to diversification and higher quality yarns.

Looking at the characteristics of silk woven and knitted fabrics, which are the target of high-grade silky materials, there is a noticeable difference in the degree of bulge, squeaking, and unevenness compared to mW fabrics using ordinary polyester threads. Although a certain degree of fullness was achieved by using the heat-shrinkable mixed fibers described above, a good level of silk-like unevenness was not obtained.

Looking at the unevenness of silk fabrics, we find that the silk multifilament yarn has random unevenness in fineness along its length, giving it a luxurious feel that cannot be obtained with conventional synthetic fibers.

By the way, the fineness unevenness in the yarn length direction of the silk multifilament yarn after silyzine has been removed can be determined by the measurement method described later, when the U% value is 1.
~3%, and the number of peaks in the U% value range of 4 to 10% is 10 to 30 per 50 m, and the number of peaks exceeding 10% is about 0 to 5 per 50 m. ing.

Many methods have been proposed for imparting such thick and thin yarn unevenness to polyester multifilament yarns by non-uniformly stretching undrawn polyester yarns, but most of them involve clearly separating the thick portions from the details. It is formed in the length direction and gives a clear shade difference after dyeing, and the U% value is 5 to several 10%.
It is large and is not necessarily sufficient as a raw yarn for silky high-grade woven or knitted fabrics.

In Japanese Patent Publication No. 7207/1987, the thick part and details are dispersed within the multifilament yarn, and there are 3 or more unstretched parts with a length of 3 marks or less per 10 ann of the multifilament yarn, and the elongation is Polyester fibers are disclosed in which the polyester fibers have a polyester fiber of 35% to 70%. However, the thick and thin yarn disclosed herein has the disadvantage that because it is supplied with a low spinning speed yarn and is non-uniformly stretched, there is a large difference in physical properties between the main part and the small part, especially a large difference in U% value, and a large difference in shade after dyeing. Furthermore, since the yarn elongation is high, it is easily susceptible to tension changes in higher-order processes.

Furthermore, JP-A-55-116819 discloses that polyethylene terephthalate is used as a core component and a mixture of polyethylene terephthalate and an ionic dye-dyeable polyethylene terephthalate copolymer is used as a sheath component. A technique for forming large and fine threads has been disclosed. This technique is aimed at achieving a variety of dyeing effects, and is not capable of imparting an elegant luster considering the cross-sectional shape of the composite yarn.
It also aims to give a clear contrast between the main part and the details, making it silky and luxurious! It is insufficient as a yarn for tlim products.

In heat-shrinkable differentially mixed fiber yarns, there are the following techniques in which raw yarns having a fineness distribution in the longitudinal direction of the yarns are applied.

Japanese Patent Publication No. 55-45653 discloses that in polyester mixed fiber false-twisted yarns dyeable and undyable with ionic dyes, one of the yarns contains irregular unstretched parts to prevent the unstretched parts from fusing. Techniques have been disclosed to make yarns with higher shrinkage. In relation to the present invention, when this mixed fiber yarn is used to make a woven or knitted fabric using raw silk, the high shrinkage yarn with unstretched portions occupies the core, resulting in a disadvantage that the natural appearance becomes too mild. Another disadvantage is that it does not bulge easily, and there is no squeaky feeling.

JP-A-56-128326 also discloses a heat-shrinkable mixed fiber yarn using a highly shrinkable yarn with uneven fineness, but it has the same drawbacks as the aforementioned JP-A-55-456535653. .

JP-A No. 55-163232 discloses a blended yarn consisting of a yarn with uneven fineness and a mixed fiber yarn with different shrinkage, but the disadvantage is that most of the yarn with uneven fineness is large and there is a large difference in dye density. Furthermore, the shrinkage levels of yarns with uneven fineness and yarns with different shrinkage blends are not particularly taken into consideration.

Furthermore, JP-A No. 58-4868 discloses Taslan yarn with a feed differential blend of a low shrinkage thick yarn and a high shrinkage yarn, but it does not suggest a raw silk blend yarn, but a feed differential blend yarn with a low shrinkage thick and thin yarn and a high shrinkage yarn. Fiber Taslan yarn has many large loops that make it difficult to unwind, the resulting woven or knitted fabric tends to have a zipper phenomenon, and has low gloss and no squeaky feel, making it difficult to use as a high-quality silky material.

[Purpose of the invention]

The present invention has been made to eliminate the above-mentioned conventional drawbacks, and has the characteristics that a high-quality silky woven or knitted fabric should have: large bulge, drapability, squeaky feeling, elegant luster, color development, and if necessary, natural coloration. The purpose of the present invention is to provide a mixed fiber yarn that can suitably exhibit unevenness.

[Structure of the invention]

The special heat-shrinkage differential blend yarn of the present invention that achieves the above object is composed of a high-shrinkage yarn and a low-shrinkage yarn, and has a boiling water shrinkage rate and/or a dry heat shrinkage rate at 200°C of the high-shrinkage yarn and the low-shrinkage yarn. at least the low shrinkage yarn is a composite yarn formed of two components having different solubility in solvents, and the easily soluble component is present at two or more locations on the outer periphery of the cross section of the composite yarn. It is characterized by occupying .

The special heat-shrinkable differentially mixed fiber yarn of the present invention is composed of a high-shrinkage yarn and a low-shrinkage yarn, and the boiling water shrinkage rate of these shrinkage yarns is
It is necessary that there is a difference of at least 5% in the dry heat shrinkage rate at 00°C. The method of heat-treating a knitted fabric using heat-shrinkable mixed fiber yarn to reveal its latent bulkiness is to heat it under moist heat conditions including spring water and/or under dry heat conditions around 200°C.
A common and preferred method is to heat treat without applying substantial tension. If the difference in boiling water shrinkage and/or 200° C. dry heat shrinkage is less than 5%, good bulkiness and drapability cannot be imparted to the woven or knitted fabric. In order to provide great bulk and drapability, it is preferable that the difference in boiling water shrinkage and/or 200°C dry heat shrinkage is 7% or more, and the difference in boiling water shrinkage and 200°C dry heat shrinkage is 7% or more. % or more is more preferable.

If the boiling water shrinkage rate difference is too large, the surface condition of the woven or knitted fabric will exhibit large irregularities and will likely become rough, so the boiling water shrinkage rate difference is preferably 20% or less, more preferably 15% or less.

When manifesting latent bulkiness by utilizing the difference in dry heat shrinkage rate, it is best to perform heat treatment such as scouring, alkali weight reduction treatment, and dyeing. C The difference in dry heat shrinkage rate is preferably 3% or more, more preferably 5% or more.

If the heat shrinkage rate of the high shrinkage yarn is too large, the resulting woven or knitted fabric tends to be coarse and hard.
The dry heat shrinkage rate at 0° C. is preferably 30% or less.

In addition, the higher the shrinkage stress of high shrinkage yarns and the lower the shrinkage stress of low shrinkage yarns, the greater the latent bulkiness, so high shrinkage yarns exhibit higher shrinkage stress in spring water and/or dry heat conditions at 200°C. It is preferable that the high shrinkage yarn exhibits a high shrinkage stress, particularly under spring water treatment conditions, and it is even more preferable that the absolute value of the shrinkage force is a high shrinkage force.

Among the yarns constituting the special heat-shrinkable differentially mixed fiber yarn of the present invention, at least the low-shrinkage yarn is a two-component composite yarn with different solubility in dissolution, and the easily soluble component is in the cross section of the two-component composite yarn. It is necessary to occupy two or more locations on the outer periphery. It is preferable to use two-component composite yarns for both the high-shrinkage yarn and the low-shrinkage yarn, since this improves color development.

The cross-sectional shape of the two-component composite yarn according to the present invention will be explained below. Figures 1 and 2 show preferred cross-sections of the two-component composite yarn of the present invention, which is formed of a non-component yarn, a degradable component A, and an easily soluble component B; The composite yarn shown in is a trilobal cross-sectional yarn in which the easily soluble component B includes the vicinity of all the vertices of the trilobal shape and is arranged in the shape of a wedge tapering toward the inside of the yarn. The composite yarn shown in FIG. 2 is a five-lobed, planar yarn, in which the easily soluble component B is arranged in a wedge shape extending 1 lIl toward the inside of the yarn, including the vicinity of all the vertices of the five-lobed shape. ing. If such a composite yarn is subjected to a melting process to dissolve the easily soluble components more quickly, it is possible to obtain a yarn with grooves of varying depths on the surface depending on the degree of the melting process.

In order for the easily soluble component B to exhibit good screeching effect and color development after the dissolution treatment, it is preferable that the easily soluble component B has a wedge shape that tapers from the surface of the composite yarn toward the inside of the yarn, as shown in FIGS. 1 and 2. The soluble component B needs to occupy two or more locations on the surface of the composite yarn in order to exhibit good squeaking and color development after dissolution treatment, and is preferably in the range of 3 to 12 locations.
A range of 3 to 6 locations is more preferable.

The depth of the grooves in fibers with grooves on the surface is 0 in terms of the fact that when the easily soluble components are dissolved and removed, the easily soluble components remain to exhibit a part of the effect of improving color development, and in terms of the effect of improving color development. The depth of the easily soluble component in the composite yarn, which will be defined later, is preferably at least 0.3 μm, more preferably 1 μm or more.

FIG. 3 is an enlarged view of the vicinity of the yarn surface, focusing on one easily soluble component in the yarn cross section.

P, -Q are the boundary points between easily soluble components and poorly or non-soluble components on the yarn surface, and the point of view of imparting 0 color development and squeaky feeling when line segment PQ is the surface length of one easily soluble component. The length of the line segment PQ is preferably 0.2 to 4μ, more preferably 0.3 to 3μ, and the sum of the lengths of easily soluble components on the thread surface is It is preferable that the ratio is 2-=40% of the sum of the outer peripheral lengths of the thread surfaces of the components, since at least a part of the easily soluble components can be dissolved and removed to produce a fiber with grooves on the surface, which can exhibit an elegant luster. , more preferably 5 to 35%.

A line segment R3 connecting the midpoint S of the line segment PQ and the point R closest to the yarn center of gravity of the easily soluble component is the depth of the easily soluble component. The point where the straight line orthogonal to the midpoint M of line segment R3 intersects with the boundary line between the easily soluble component and the poorly or insoluble component is T and U.
In this case, the length of the line molecule U is 40 to the length of the line segment PQ.
It is preferable to set it to 90% and form a wedge shape tapering in the direction of the center of gravity of the yarn from the viewpoint of improving color development.

From the viewpoint of stably spinning the composite yarn, the cross-sectional shape is preferably rotationally symmetrical with respect to the center of gravity of the yarn, and the cross-sectional shape of the composite yarn is preferably multilobed from the viewpoint of imparting silky luster. Preferably, the cross section has 3 to 6 leaves.

It is preferable that the easily soluble component has a wedge-like shape that includes the vertices of the multilobed shape and tapers toward the inside of the thread, and does not need to be arranged to include the vicinity of all the vertices of the multilobed shape, but it can be used as a composite component. When at least a part of the easily soluble components are dissolved and removed from the thread to form a thread with grooves on the surface, it is possible to arrange the thread so as to include the vicinity of the majority of the vertices of the multilobed shape in order to significantly improve the color development and the creaking effect. Preferably, it is more preferable to include the vicinity of all the vertices of the multilobed shape, and the easily soluble component is distributed from the concave surface between the vertices of the multilobed shape into a wedge-shaped tapered toward the inside of the thread. If they are arranged in a certain shape, they will easily become fibrillated, which is not preferable.

Note that the apex of the multilobed shape is the furthest point F from the center of gravity of the yarn in the convex portion viewed from the inside direction of the yarn, and occupying the vicinity of the apex means occupying the area including the apex.

As component A, which is a difficult or insoluble component of a two-component composite yarn, polyester is preferably used, which has excellent physical and chemical properties and is widely used for clothing, and is particularly in demand for improvement as a silky high-grade woven or knitted fabric. In particular, it is preferably applicable to polyester containing 80 mol% or more of polyethylene terephthalate.

As a treatment method for dissolving component B, which is an easily soluble component, alkaline aqueous solution treatment can be suitably used from the viewpoint of ease of operation, safety, cost, etc. From this point of view, as a solvent, An alkaline aqueous solution is preferably used, and as component B, an alkali easily soluble polyester is preferably used. Examples of easily alkali-soluble polyesters include copolymers or blends of polyester and polyalkylene glycols, polyesters containing anionic surfactants, polyesters containing metal sulfonate groups, or combinations of polyesters and polyesters containing metal sulfonate groups. Blends can be preferably used.

Polyester containing a metal sulfonate group or a blend of a polyester and a polyester containing a metal sulfonate i can be more preferably used as component B because it can be dissolved and removed more easily and evenly than a composite yarn, and in particular a polyester containing a metal sulfonate group can be used. 5 for polyester
- Sodium sulfoisophthalate (1-10 mol%)
/ethylene terephthalate (99 to 90 mol%) copolyester is preferred.

The ratio of the dissolution rate of component B to component A in the dissolution treatment is compared in the normal drawn yarn state of both components, and unless the ratio is greater than ■, the fiber with grooves on the surface, which is the aim of the present invention, cannot be obtained. It is preferable that the dissolution rate ratio is 1.5 times or more, and in particular, the depth of the groove described above is stably maintained at 0.2μ.
To make it less than 2μ, the dissolution rate ratio is 1.5 to 8.
A range of 2 times to 6 times is preferred, and a range of 2 to 6 times is more preferred.

The polymer constituting the composite yarn can also contain well-known additives such as quenching agents, antioxidants, optical brighteners, and ultraviolet absorbers, to the extent that they do not impede the effects of the present invention. In order to realize the above-mentioned cross-sectional shape, the composite ratio of both components of the composite yarn is 98:2 to 70 by weight of component A:component B.
The range of 73G is preferable, 95:5 to 80:20
The range is more preferable.

Among the yarns constituting the special heat-shrinkage differential blend yarn of the present invention, it is possible to have a fineness distribution at least in the longitudinal direction of the low-shrinkage yarn, and it is preferable to use a high-shrinkage yarn. ,
Both low-shrinkage yarns can be made with yarns that have fineness distribution in the longitudinal direction, but it is easy to reduce shrinkage stress with yarns that have fineness distribution in the longitudinal direction, and this feature can be used to create woven and knitted fabrics. Because it is possible to impart great bulk and drapability to the yarn, and by placing the low-shrinkage yarn on the outside of the high-shrinkage yarn after heat treatment, it is possible to sufficiently impart a silky, flat appearance to the high-shrinkage yarn. It is more preferable to use a yarn with a distribution.

Next, a yarn having a fineness distribution in the longitudinal direction will be explained.

Having a fineness distribution in the longitudinal direction of the yarn means that large areas and small areas exist alternately in the longitudinal direction of the yarn, and it is preferable that large areas and small areas exist randomly throughout the multifilament.

In particular, as mentioned above, in order to impart a feeling of unevenness similar to that of silk, it is preferable that the low shrinkage yarn has unevenness in fineness, that is, the 0% value can be set to 0.7 to 3% using the measurement method described below. 9
It is more preferable to set it to ~2.5%, and the number of U% value peaks in the range of 4 to 10% is preferably 5 to 100 per 50 m, and 10 to 60. It is more preferable that the number of peaks exceeding 10% is 10 or less per 50 m, and even more preferable that the number of peaks exceeding 10% is 0%.
If the value exceeds 3%, the majority of the yarn will substantially contain unstretched material, and the difference in dyeing between the major area and the details after dyeing will be large, resulting in a so-called thick and thin yarn, which is different from the silky appearance, which is preferable. It is preferable that most of the yarn be in a slightly stretched undrawn state, rather than being completely undrawn. Therefore, it is preferable that the S-8 curve of the thick and thin composite yarn of the present invention substantially not exhibit a constant stress elongation region such as that of a so-called thick and thin yarn.

Further, the elongation of the composite yarn having thick and thin is preferably 15 to 50%, preferably 20% or more and less than 35%, so that it has good thread spinning and higher process passability, and is resistant to fluctuations in thread spinning and higher process tension. It is more preferable to make it difficult.

In the special heat shrinkage differential blend yarn of the present invention, the U% value is 0.5
It is preferable to set it to 2% from the viewpoint of giving a natural appearance, and 0
．． A range of 6 to 1.5% is more preferable. From the viewpoint of imparting silky luster and touch to woven or knitted fabrics, it is preferable that the yarn constituting the special heat-shrinkable differentially mixed fiber yarn of the present invention is a yarn with an irregular cross-section such as a T-shape or a Y-shape, even among high-shrinkage yarns. The yarn constituting the special heat-shrinkable mixed fiber yarn is made of polyester, which is suitable even for high-shrinkage yarns because it can express a good silky texture and can have good fineness bones in the longitudinal direction of the yarn. Can be used. Further, the potential bulkiness of the special mixed fiber yarn can be expressed by the bulkiness level, which will be explained later in the measurement method, and the bulkiness level is preferably 15cc/g or more, and 20cc/g or more.
g or more is more preferable. - Also, in order to exhibit good latent bulkiness, the weight mixing ratio of low shrinkage yarns and high shrinkage yarns is preferably in the range of 30 nia 0 to 70:30. Further, the special mixed fiber yarn of the present invention exhibits the effects of the present invention well when used as raw silk in woven or knitted fabrics.

In order to improve the stiffness and tension of the woven or knitted fabric, it is also preferable to use a high shrinkage yarn with a thicker denier. In this case, the fineness of the single yarn is 2 to 5 deniers for high shrinkage yarns and 0 denier for low shrinkage yarns.
．． It is preferable to provide a difference of 0.5 denier or more in the range of 7 to 3 denier.

The special heat-shrinkable mixed fiber yarn of the present invention is made to have a predetermined shrinkage rate when spinning a high-shrinkage yarn and a low-shrinkage yarn, and at least the low-shrinkage yarn is made into the above-mentioned specific composite yarn, which is then spun and doubled. It can be obtained by

The two-component composite yarn in the present invention was previously proposed by the present inventors in JP-A-57-5912 and JP-A-57-592.
．． It can be obtained by the method described in Publication No. 1 and the like.

Next, the spinning of a yarn having a fineness distribution in the longitudinal direction, which can be preferably applied to a low shrinkage yarn, will be explained, taking polyester as an example, which can be particularly preferably used. A yarn having a fineness distribution in the longitudinal direction of the yarn can be obtained by non-uniformly stretching an undrawn yarn.

The spinning speed when spinning undrawn yarn is 2000 to 4000 m.
/min is preferable, and 2500 to 3500 m/min.
A range of sin is more preferable. If the spinning speed is too low, the strength of the thick and thin yarn will be low, and the difference in thickness will be emphasized, making it difficult to obtain a silk-like uneven feel. If the spinning speed is too high, the difference in thickness will be too small when making a large thin yarn, making it difficult to obtain a silk-like uneven feel. can be stretched using conventional polyester stretching equipment.

In other words, a heating pin, heating roller,
A heating plate or the like may be installed as appropriate, but a combination of a heating pin and a heating plate or a heating roller and a heating plate is preferable from the viewpoint of stably forming a thick and thin yarn in the longitudinal direction of the yarn. In order to do this, it is preferable that the stretching ratio is (1+constant stress elongation region elongation X2.2) times or less.

In order to set the U% value of the thick and thin drawn yarn to Oo, 7 to 3%, the stretching ratio is (10 constant stress elongation region elongation x 1.1) to (k + constant stress elongation region elongation x 2. 2) is preferable, and U
In order to set the % value to 0.9 to 2.5%, (1 + constant stress elongation region elongation X 1.3) to (1 + constant stress elongation region elongation X 2.0)
It is more preferable to set the elongation to 20% or more and less than 35% without substantially showing any elongation in the constant stress elongation region in the SS curve of the drawn yarn having the above range.

Furthermore, in order to make the number of U% value peaks in the range of 4 to 10% 5 to 100 per 50 m, it is preferable to set the stretching start temperature T ('C) to a value not more than the value determined by the following formula.

In addition, in the combination of a heating pin and a hot plate or a heating roller and a hot plate, the boiling water shrinkage rate of the obtained drawn yarn can be controlled by the hot plate temperature, and the preferable level for a low shrinkage yarn is 3 to 9%. is preferably 140 to 200°C.

〔Effect of the invention〕

The special heat shrinkage differential blend yarn of the present invention has a specific heat shrinkage difference,
At least the low shrinkage yarn can form a plurality of grooves in the cross section of the yarn, so it has the following effects. Furthermore, in producing the special heat-shrinkable differentially mixed fiber yarn of the present invention, it is possible to stably produce the yarn without employing any special equipment or conditions.

(1) Using the special mixed fiber yarn of the present invention to make a mW product,
By heat-treating with warm heat and/or dry heat without applying substantial tension, it is possible to impart great bulge and drapability, as well as silk-like squeaky feel and two-color development properties. Compared to the case where there is no yarn length difference, the grooves existing on the side where the yarn length difference is large are more likely to come into contact with each other between the fabrics, and a large squeaky feeling can be imparted.

(2) It is possible to make the low shrinkage yarn have a fineness distribution at least in the longitudinal direction of the yarn, and in this case, it is also possible to impart a silk-like natural unevenness. By imparting natural unevenness, it is possible to eliminate the uneven appearance that tends to be a drawback with ordinary heat-shrinkable mixed fiber yarns. In addition, the low shrinkage yarn with a fineness distribution in the longitudinal direction retains slight shrinkage and becomes a component on the side with a large difference in yarn length, resulting in an excellent soft feel.

(3) In order to further emphasize the silky texture and appearance, it is preferable to use polyester yarn or yarn with an irregular cross section.

(4) In order to emphasize the bulkiness and drapability of the woven or knitted fabric, it is possible and preferable to make the shrinkage stress of the high shrinkage yarn larger than that of the low shrinkage yarn.

In the woven and knitted fabric using the special mixed fiber yarn of the present invention, the reason why the coloring property is improved is not clear, but the larger the latent bulkiness is, the better the coloring property is, and there are large voids between the single fibers forming grooves. This is thought to be because the light incident on the surface of the fabric is trapped in the gaps and grooves between the single fibers. Furthermore, the greater the degree of outline, the better the color development, and if this point is also taken into consideration, greater color development can be obtained.

The present invention will be described in detail below with reference to Examples. First, the methods for measuring boiling water shrinkage, dry heat shrinkage, constant stress elongation region elongation, U%, bulk height 1 color development in the present invention will be described below. .

(Boiling water shrinkage rate) One sample is a skein with a circumference of 1 m and wound 10 times, and the original length L1 is determined under a load of 0.1 g/d. Next, after processing in spring water under no load for 15 minutes, 0.1g/d
The length L2 after treatment is determined under a load and calculated using the following equation. This was measured five times for each sample, and the average value was taken as the boiling water shrinkage rate.

(Dry heat shrinkage rate) One sample is a 10-turn skein with a circumference of 1 m, and the original length L3 is determined under a load of 0.1 g/d. Next, after processing for 15 minutes in a dry heat atmosphere at 200±2° C. under no load, the length L4 after processing is determined under a load of 0.1 g/d, and calculated from the following formula. This was measured five times for each sample, and the average value was taken as the dry heat shrinkage rate.

(Elongation in constant stress elongation region) Read the elongation of C on the chart shown in Figure 4 obtained with an Instron type tensile tester, for example, if it is 40%, it is 0.4
Expressed as

(U%) As a measuring device, commercially available Uster Evennes is used.
sTester (manufactured by Keizoku Kogyo Co., Ltd.) is used.

Select the measuring slot to be used depending on the torque denier of the yarn, set the yarn speed to 25 m/min, and use a twister to
．． Measurement is performed using a normal test while twisting the yarn while applying a rotation of 50 rpm. The Worcester uneven curve has a chart speed of 5c.
Draw at m/min and range ±12.5%. The U% value is read as the yarn unevenness for 3 minutes using the attached Inch Gray Coo. The U% value is measured at least 5 times, with each measurement lasting 3 minutes, and is expressed as the average value.

In the above measurement chart, the size of each peak is read as the difference between the upper and lower ends of the peak and is defined as the U% value peak number, which is measured at least 5 times with 50 m as a repeating unit and expressed as the average value.

(Bulk height) Figure 5 shows a sketch of the bulk height measuring device, Figure 6 (A),
(B) and (C) are sketches for explaining the measurement method using the device. Two notches 15 are provided on the top surface of the sample stage 10, and the distance 16 between the outer edges thereof is 6 m. A flexible thin cloth tape 11 with a width of -12.5 cI11 is hung over these notches 15, and the lower end thereof is Bracket with pointer 1
2 and load 13 are connected. The pointer on the metal fitting 12 is set so as to indicate the 0 position on the scale 14 when no sample is mounted.

For the sample, one skein is wound 80 times using a skein scatterer with a circumference of 1 m, and 2 to 10 skeins are prepared depending on the indicated fineness, and each skein is placed separately in an atmosphere of 200÷2℃ for 5 minutes without any load. After the heat treatment, the skein is hung in the condition of 4B, 000 denier (for example, 3
If it is a 0 denier yarn, it will cost 30 x 80 x 2 pieces 4,800.
48,000 ÷ 4.800 = 10, 10 skeins, 75 denier yarn, 75 x 80 x 2 = 12,000
．． 48.000 ÷ 12.000 = 4 (4 skeins)) Arrange them in parallel. Next, this aligned skein is shown in Figure 6 (A
) as shown in FIG. 6(B) and a cross-sectional view in FIG. 6(C). Insert it in between. The total load 13 including the metal fitting with a pointer is 50 g, and the value L (am) indicated by the pointer is read. The measurement sample 17 is measured three times in total by moving the position, and the average value (a+1) is determined.

The bulk height M is calculated from the following formula.

100-5R9,0υυ Here, D is the fineness (denier) of the sample yarn before heat treatment, P
is the number of parallel threads in the tape. Also S
H is the shrinkage rate during dry heat treatment, and is a value obtained by measuring the length of the wind used for bulk height measurement under a load equivalent to 0.1 g/d before and after heat treatment, and expressed as a percentage.

(Color development) A woven fabric consisting of a fiber sample to be evaluated is dyed with 0.
Scouring by boiling for 5 minutes in boiling water containing 2% nonionic activator [Sanded G-900 (manufactured by Sanyo Chemical)] and 0.2% soda ash, followed by washing with water.

It was dried and used for staining.

Dyeing conditions are disperse dye Sumikaron Black
S-3B 10% onf, acetic acid 0.5 cc/I! ,
Bath ratio 1;30 of 130 consisting of 0.2 g/l of sodium acetate
Staining shall be carried out in an aqueous solution at ℃ for 60 minutes. After staining, apply hydrosulfide 2 g/j! according to the conventional method. , caustic soda 2g/l, nonionic activator (Sanded G-
900) in an aqueous solution at 80° C. for 20 minutes, dried, and dried at 200° C. for 5 minutes.

The color development was evaluated using a digital measurement color difference calculator (manufactured by Suga Test Instruments 01) using an L value measured by stacking five or more fabrics in a state where no irradiation light was transmitted.

As for the L value, the darker the color, the smaller the value, and the lighter the color, the larger the value.

〔Example〕

Example I Polyethylene terephthalate (intrinsic viscosity in orthochlorophenol at 25°C: 0.66) as component A, 5-sodium sulfoisophthalate (1.5 mol%) as component B
)/ethylene terephthalate (98.5 mol%) copolyester (intrinsic viscosity 0.55) at a yarn protection temperature of 29
Composite yarn protection was carried out at 5°C, at a protection speed of 3000 m/min, with A and B components in a ratio of 85:15, and had a cross-sectional shape as shown in Figure 1, constant stress elongation of 43%, 62 denier, A composite undrawn yarn of 30 filaments was obtained. The ratio of dissolution rate of component B to component A in alkaline aqueous solution treatment is 3.2. The depth of the B component in the composite undrawn yarn is 4.5μ, the surface length of one of the B components is 2.0μ, and the sum of the lengths occupying the yarn surface is 21% of the sum of the outer circumference length of the yarn surface of the A component. The length of the line molecule U is 6 the length of the line segment PQ.
It was 5%. Subsequently, it was stretched at 1.65 times at a stretching speed of 40 m/lll1n, a hot pin of 70°C, and a hot plate of 145°C, and
．． A yarn with fineness distribution in the longitudinal direction of 5 denier 30 filaments was used, and this was designated as low shrinkage yarn C.Other physical properties than those shown in Table 1 are U%, 45%, and 0% values of 4 to 10%. The number of peaks was 23 at 15 Qm, the number of peaks with a U% value exceeding 10% was 0 at 150 m, and the elongation was 31%.

As a high shrinkage yarn, a 37.5 denier 16 filament DG shown in Table 1 was prepared by yarn proofing in the same manner as the low shrinkage yarn and carrying out normal stretching. However.

The A component of E is an ethylene terephthalate/ethylene isophthalate (9515 mol%) copolyester (intrinsic viscosity 0.67), and the dissolution rate ratio of this B component to the A component is 3.0. The cross-sectional shape of the high shrinkage yarn was almost similar to that of the low shrinkage yarn.

A low shrinkage yarn and a high shrinkage yarn were combined and twisted using a draw twister to obtain a 75 denier 36 filament mixed fiber yarn shown in Table 2. These special blended yarns are woven into habutae using a warp and warp, relaxed scouring under water-conducting conditions, and the survival rate is 160. '
The weight was reduced by 2S% with a 3% aqueous sodium hydroxide solution at 100° C. under a dry heat set C, and the resultant sample was subjected to color development evaluation. Among the single fibers that make up ms, those that correspond to low shrinkage yarns have grooves with a depth of 1.0 to 1.2μ and a width of 1.3 to 1.5μ, and high shrinkage yarns. Depth 0.9 for those corresponding to
The color development evaluation results are shown in Table 2, in which grooves with a width of 1.8 to 2.0 μm were formed.

(Margins below this page) In Experiment R1kL1, the swelling and drapability were insufficient, whereas in Experiments R1kL2 to 4, the luster, swelling, drapeability, creakiness, and natural appearance were good, and the larger the difference in shrinkage, the better. Fullness 1 Color development, squeaky feel, and soft feel were improved, and Experiment 3 was even better than Experiment 2, and the experimental fish was a particularly good silky fabric.

Example 2 As the high shrinkage yarn, G in Example 1 was used, and as the low shrinkage yarn, the spinning speed was 2750 to 325 according to Example 1.
An undrawn yarn with an elongation of 42% in the constant stress elongation region obtained by spinning within the range of 0 m/min was drawn at a drawing speed of 400 m/min,
A 37.5 denier 30 filament yarn having a fineness distribution in the longitudinal direction was prepared by stretching at a heating bottle of 65° C. and a hot plate of 150° C. at the stretching ratio shown in Table 3. Table 3 shows the properties of the mixed yarn obtained by doubling. A bulky fabric was obtained according to Example 1. Color development evaluation is also listed in Table 3. The resulting fabric is glossy,
It is a silky fabric with excellent fullness, drapability, squeaky feel, and color development.The knitted fabric of experiment No. 5 has a slight unevenness, and the knitted fabric of experiment No. 6 has a gentle unevenness, and on the contrary, the U% of low shrinkage yarn Ceramic 12, which has a large value, has tight shading <, No, 1
No. 1 was slightly tight, No. 7 to No. 10 were excellent in silk-like natural unevenness.

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[Brief explanation of drawings]

1 and 2 are cross-sectional views of typical composite yarns in the present invention, FIG. 3 is an enlarged explanatory view of a cross-sectional part when focusing on one B component in the cross-section, and FIG. The figure is a strong elongation diagram explaining the elongation in the constant stress elongation region.
The figure is a sketch of the bulk height measuring device, and Fig. 6 (A),
(B) and (C) are sketches for explaining the bulk height measurement method. A: Difficult or non-soluble component, B: Easily soluble component.

Claims (1)

[Scope of Claims] 1. Consisting of a high shrinkage yarn and a low shrinkage yarn, the high shrinkage yarn and the low shrinkage yarn have a difference of at least 5% in boiling water shrinkage rate and/or 200°C dry heat shrinkage rate, At least the low shrinkage yarn is a composite yarn formed of two components having different solubility in a solvent, and the easily soluble component occupies two or more locations on the outer periphery of the cross section of the composite yarn. Differential shrinkage blend yarn. 2. The special heat-shrinkable differentially mixed fiber yarn according to claim 1, wherein at least the low-shrinkage yarn has a fiber distribution in the longitudinal direction of the yarn. 3. The special heat-shrinkable differential blend yarn according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the high-shrinkage yarn and the low-shrinkage yarn are polyester. 4. The special heat-shrinkable differentially mixed fiber yarn according to claim 1, 2, or 3, wherein the solvent is an alkaline aqueous solution.