JP2808829B2 - Composite filament yarn of polyester filament yarn and wool - Google Patents

Description

Description: TECHNICAL FIELD The present invention relates to a polyester fiber yarn and wool composite fiber yarn.

The composite fiber yarn of the present invention is used as a woven fabric, a knitted fabric, a decorative yarn, and the like, and is optimally used for high-grade garments by utilizing its features.

[Prior art] Conventionally, composite fiber yarns of polyester filament and wool are well known as core yarn, silofil, and covering yarn, and are made of polyester wool which combines the high physical properties of polyester with wool feel and heat retention. It is a high quality mixed yarn. In particular, compared to spun yarn such as wool only or polyester short fiber, the yarn has less fluff, has a rounder shape, and has a drape-like texture.

However, since polyester is difficult to dye, when it is dyed under the same conditions as wool, the color becomes lighter, a color difference occurs with wool, which is a drawback called irritability, and the same color as wool cannot be obtained. On the other hand, when dyeing is carried out at 130 to 135 ° C., which is the usual dyeing temperature of polyester, the same color as wool is obtained, but the feeling of wool is impaired, resulting in a rough texture. In addition, wool is greatly yellowed, and strength and elongation are significantly reduced. Therefore, from the viewpoint of the balance between the same color, the feeling of wool, the strength, etc., it is produced at a dyeing temperature of about 110 to 120 ° C, using a carrier, etc. together, finding a compromise, and having problems. It is the current situation.

On the other hand, at present, the shrinkage characteristics of polyester filament yarns for composite fiber yarns are used without any particular care. When a very low shrinkage yarn is used, the entanglement with the wool is insufficient, the filament yarn easily slips off from the wool, a misalignment defect occurs in the product, or when a high shrinkage yarn is used. Tightening force works strongly, causing problems such as rough and rough texture. Regarding the number of twists of the composite fiber yarn, the relationship with the original yarn shrinkage cannot be sufficiently grasped, and there is a similar problem.

From such a background, a polyester filament composite fiber yarn that can be dyed in the same bath as wool by normal pressure dyeing and does not impair the feeling of wool has been desired.

In order to solve such a problem, the following normal pressure dyeable polyesters have been proposed.

Cation dye dyeable polyester obtained by copolymerizing 5% by mole (8% by weight) of sodium sulfoisophthalic acid,
For example, JP-A-61-34022, JP-A-60-246847,
These are disclosed in, for example, JP-A-60-173185 and JP-A-60-88190.

Further, an easily dyeable polyester fiber obtained by copolymerizing an aromatic dicarboxylic acid, an aliphatic dicarboxylic acid or an aliphatic diol is disclosed in, for example, JP-A-51-130320 and JP-A-57-30.
No. 169 and the like.

[Problems to be Solved by the Invention] However, the cationic dye-dyeable polyester filament yarn obtained by copolymerizing sodium sulfoisophthalic acid has improved dyeability, but has a yarn strength of 2 to 2.5 g / d in single fiber strength. Low, shrinkage stress is as small as 2.5 to 2.8 g / d, sufficient shrinkage cannot be obtained by processing, poor chemical resistance, and poor light fastness of cationic dyes.

An easily dyeable polyester fiber obtained by copolymerizing an aromatic dicarboxylic acid, an aliphatic dicarboxylic acid, or an aliphatic diol approaches dyeing under normal pressure, but has the following problems.

For example, among aliphatic dicarboxylic acids and aliphatic diols such as adipic acid, sebacic acid and azelaic acid, polyesters obtained by copolymerizing butanediol, neopentyl glycol and the like, isophthalic acid, 1,2-bis (phenoxy) ethane- For polyester fibers obtained by copolymerizing an aromatic dicarboxylic acid such as 4,4-dicarboxylic acid, the copolymerization ratio must be 15% by weight or more in order to perform normal pressure dyeing.
There were problems such as a decrease in yarn strength, a decrease in light fastness, a yellowing of the yarn, a decrease in heat resistance, and a poor yarn-making property, and were not satisfactory.

In view of the drawbacks in the prior art, the present inventors have
As a result of intensive studies on polyester filament yarn mixed with wool, it was found that the same color and feeling can be greatly improved by using a polyester filament yarn having a specific composition and shrinkage properties as a composite fiber in wool, and the present invention was reached. It was done.

In other words, an object of the present invention is to provide a polyester fiber yarn and a wool composite fiber yarn having high coloring properties, rich in the same colority, making use of the soft feeling of wool, making it difficult for the yarn to slip off, and having no problem in terms of uniformity and strength. It is to provide.

[Means for Solving the Problems] The polyester fiber yarn and wool composite fiber yarn of the present invention has any one of the following configurations in order to achieve the above object. That is, a normal pressure dyeable dyeing composite fiber yarn composed of polyester filament yarn and wool, wherein the polyester filament yarn is copolymerized with 6.0 to 10% by weight of polyethylene glycol having an average molecular weight of 500 to 4000, and dyed at 98 ° C. The difference between the black lightness L ₉₈ at the time of dyeing and the black lightness L ₁₃₀ at the time of dyeing at 130 ° C. is 0.1% or less, and the polyester filament yarn has a single yarn strength of 3.0 to 6.0 g / d and a boiling water shrinkage ratio (hereinafter, ,
Polyester characterized by having a boiling point of 3 to 23%, a shrinkage stress of 0.3 to 0.9 g / d and being twisted with a short fiber mainly composed of wool with a twist coefficient of 100 to 220 at the time of spinning. A composite fiber yarn composed of a filament yarn and wool, or a normal pressure dyeable composite fiber yarn composed of a polyester filament yarn and wool, wherein the polyester filament yarn contains 6.0 to 10% by weight of polyethylene glycol having an average molecular weight of 500 to 4000. The polyester filament yarn is a blended yarn composed of a low shrinkage yarn and a high shrinkage yarn, which is made of copolymerized normal pressure dyeable polyester, and has a twist coefficient of wool as a main fiber.
A polyester filament yarn and wool composite fiber, which is twisted in the range of 100 to 220, and has a yarn length difference (DFL) of 3 to 20% between the low-shrink yarn and the high-shrink yarn of the mixed fiber. It is a thread.

In the present invention, DFL means a value obtained by the following measurement.

20cm from composite fiber yarn that has undergone heat treatment such as scouring and dyeing
The polyester filament mixed yarns cut and collected to length are separated on a graduated glass plate into single fibers having different lengths. To remove the crimp of the monofilament, add a small amount of glycerin and measure the length of the monofilament while slowly extending it with your finger. Average yarn length l ₁ of low shrinkage yarn group with long single fiber length
And the difference in yarn length l ₂ of the short, high shrinkage yarn group of the single fiber length and DFL.

The normal pressure dyeable polyester used in the present invention has an average molecular weight of 50.
It is obtained by copolymerizing 6.0 to 10% by weight of polyethylene glycol of 0 to 4000.

When the average molecular weight is less than 500, a part of polyethylene glycol is scattered during the copolymerization, the copolymerization is not stabilized, and the obtained yarn has strong elongation, shrinkage, uneven dyeing, etc., which is not preferable. On the other hand, when polyethylene glycol having an average molecular weight of more than 4000 is used, the high molecular weight that is not copolymerized increases, so that the dyeing property and the light fastness decrease, which is not preferable.

The polyethylene glycol copolymerization rate is 6.0% by weight.
If it is less than 3, the color developability is insufficient, and normal pressure dyeability cannot be obtained. On the other hand, if the content exceeds 10% by weight, the physical properties such as low original yarn strength, too high shrinkage, and alkali resistance are reduced even if the coloring property is sufficient, and the quality of the final product is reduced.

In addition, since polyethylene glycol is copolymerized with the polyester, the oxidative degradation resistance tends to be lower than that of ordinary polyester fibers. Therefore, it is preferable to incorporate an antioxidant in the polyester in order to improve this. Done.

Preferable antioxidants include, for example, hindered phenol compounds which are phenol derivatives having a substituent having steric hindrance at a position adjacent to the phenolic hydroxyl group.

The compounding amount is preferably 0.05 to 1.0% by weight based on the polyester fiber.

Polyester, which is the material of the filament used in the present invention, may be copolymerized with other copolymer components as necessary,
Other polymers may be blended. For example, a small amount of a chain branching agent such as pentaerythritol, trimethylolpropane, trimellitic acid or boric acid may be copolymerized.

In addition, optional additives, for example, a matting agent such as titanium oxide, an ultraviolet absorber, a flame retardant, a pigment, and the like may be contained as necessary.

Polyester, which is a material of the filament used in the present invention, exhibits normal pressure dyeability. In the present invention, normal pressure dyeability is defined as follows. That is, the difference between the black lightness L ₉₈ at 98 ° C staining and the black lightness L ₁₃₀ at 130 ° C staining is
A case of 1.0% or less is regarded as normal pressure dyeability. If the difference between L ₉₈ and L ₁₃₀ exceeds 1.0%,
Color development at 98 ° C is insufficient, and complete normal pressure dyeability cannot be obtained.

In the present invention, L ₉₈ and L ₁₃₀ are, as described above, the black lightness when dyed at 98 ° C. and the black lightness when dyed at 130 ° C., respectively, and refer to the values measured by the following methods.

Knitted sock knitted fabric (the bite cylinder knitted fabric) from the polyester filament fibers <Measurement method of L _98, L _130>, then Sandetto as refining agent C-
Using a 29 (manufactured by Sanyo Kasei Co., Ltd.), a refining treatment is conducted by boiling at 98 ° C. for 20 minutes, air-dried, and then dried in a relaxed state.
℃ 3 minutes after dry heat setting, dyeing dyeing under the conditions described below,
Wash with water, reduce, wash and air dry.

Next, the brightness of the black color was measured using a multi-source spectrophotometer MSC-2.
The L value (%) is measured with (Suga Test Instruments Co., Ltd.).

Black brightness when dyeing temperature is 98 ° C. (L value) L _98, dyeing temperature is pure black brightness in the case of 130 ° C. The (L value) and L _130.

Dyeing conditions: (a) Dye: 200% Dianix Black BG-FS (manufactured by Mitsubishi Kasei Co., Ltd.) Staining density: 7% owf Dyeing aid: Nikka San Salt # 1200 (manufactured by Nichika Chemical Industry Co., Ltd.) Auxiliary agent concentration: 0.5g / dyeing bath PH: 6 dyeing bath ratio: 1/30 (b) water washing (c) reduction washing detergent concentration detergent: hydrosulfite 2g / caustic soda 2g / Sandet G-29 1g / (Sanyo Washing temperature, time: 80 ° C, 20 minutes Bath ratio: 1/30 (d) Washing, air drying The single filament strength of the polyester filament used in the present invention is 3.0 to 6.0 g / d. . Single fiber hardness is 3.0g /
If it is less than d, there is a problem such as thread breakage during the processing of the composite fiber and the product properties, and the practicality is poor. On the other hand, single fiber strength is 6.0 g
It is generally difficult to obtain polyester fibers exceeding / d.

When a single component polyester filament is used in the conjugate fiber yarn of the present invention, the polyester filament preferably has a boiling point of 3 to 23%, more preferably 6 to 15%. If the boiling point is less than 3%, the shrinkage is insufficient, wool easily slips off from the composite fiber yarn, and the yarn has a poor tightening feeling and fluffing occurs. On the other hand, if the boiling point exceeds 23%,
The feeling of tightening of the yarn is too strong, and the feeling is rough and hardened, which is not preferable.

When the polyester filament in the composite fiber yarn of the present invention is a mixed fiber consisting of a low shrinkage yarn and a high shrinkage yarn, the DFL is 3 to 20%, preferably 5 to 15%, which will be described later. It is preferable from the viewpoint of receiving a heat treatment such as a dyeing step and giving a good swelling feeling due to the difference in yarn length.

When the DFL is less than 3%, the above-mentioned improvement effect is small. Meanwhile, D
When FL exceeds 20%, loops on the low shrinkage yarn side are largely developed, and the yarn becomes non-uniform and the feeling is hard.

The mixing ratio of the low shrinkage yarn and the high shrinkage yarn is preferably about 1: 1 from the viewpoint of giving a good swelling feeling due to the difference in yarn length.

When a mixed fiber is used as the filament in the present invention, as a means for reducing the DFL to 3 to 20%, it can be easily performed in combination with boiling water (95 to 98 ° C.) treatment such as refining and dyeing.

For example, it can be obtained by fabricating a composite fiber yarn, and then performing the continuous desizing and refining simultaneously with the dyeing. In the case of yarn dyeing (first dyeing), it is usually obtained by applying a steam treatment (90 to 98 ° C.) for performing a bulky expression treatment. It is preferable that both the post-dyeing and the pre-dying are performed under low tension to sufficiently relax and shrink the filaments in the composite fiber yarn.

The shrinkage stress of the polyester filament used in the present invention is 0.3 to 0.9 g / d. When the amount is less than 0.3 g / d, the shrinkage becomes insufficient because the fiber-to-fiber restraining force with the wool or the fabric structure restraining force cannot be overcome during the heat treatment. On the other hand, it is generally difficult to obtain polyester fibers exceeding 0.9 g / d.

The measurement of the boiling water shrinkage, shrinkage stress and yarn length difference in the present invention was carried out by the following method.

<Measurement of boiling water shrinkage> A polyester filament yarn is measured with a load of 15 mg / d. (L ₀ ).

This is skein-shaped, wrapped in gauze, and treated with hot water at 98 ° C for 20 minutes. Then, the sample is air-dried, the length is measured (l ₁ ), which is the same load as before the treatment, and the boiling water shrinkage S is determined by the following equation.

S (%) = [(l ₀ −l ₁ ) / l ₀ ] × 100 <Measurement of shrinkage stress> A 10 cm polyester filament yarn is sampled, and both ends are tied into a loop. This is subjected to dry heat treatment with a heat shrinkage stress meter manufactured by Kanebo Co., Ltd. under a load of 30 mg / d while gradually increasing the temperature from room temperature to 200 ° C. At this time, the maximum shrinkage stress (g) is read and divided by the total degree of yarn (D) to determine the shrinkage stress per single fiber fineness (mg / d).

The method for controlling the shrinkage characteristics of the polyester filament used in the present invention is not particularly limited. However, after the polyester having the above composition is polymerized and spun at a normal spinning speed (1000 to 1500 m / min), the polyester Heat treatment temperature for drawing filaments is 120-190 ° C
The boiling point can be easily reduced in the range of.

Note that the heat treatment can be performed by a conventional method using a hot plate or a hot pin.

When the polyester filament is a mixed yarn of a high shrinkage yarn and a low shrinkage yarn, as a method of obtaining a high shrinkage yarn, a method of drawing by lowering the heat treatment temperature to 100 to 160 ° C, or a spinning speed of 2000 to 4000 m / In addition to the above-described copolymerization composition comprising the above three components during polymerization, a method of copolymerizing a small amount of a fourth component such as isophthalic acid or a bisphenol-based carboxylic acid may be used.

Further, as a method of obtaining a low shrinkage yarn, the polyester filament yarn is 180-220 using a heat treatment machine for temporary twist processing.
C. Further heat treatment at ℃, spinning speed 5000-7000m /
And the like.

As the blending method, a method of blending high shrinkage yarns and low shrinkage yarns by air entanglement or the like, or a simultaneous spinning blending method of blending and weaving simultaneously with spinning can be applied.

In addition, the form of the polyester filament yarn used in the present invention is preferably a drawn yarn (raw yarn) without sagging or a filament with little sagging, from the viewpoint of preventing bulkiness from giving an unfavorable feeling. .

The fineness of the polyester filament used in the present invention is not particularly limited, but it is preferable to use a wool having a size of 20 to 150 D as a composite fiber. For example,
In order to obtain a fine count composite fiber yarn of 120-80 single yarn, 20-30D
It is preferable to mix the polyester of No. 60-48 with 30-50D for the middle count and 75-150D for the thick count of 36-30. Single fiber fineness is 0.5-2 for fine count
d, 2 to 5d is preferable for medium count.

The twist coefficient of the composite fiber yarn of the present invention is 100 to 220. If the twist coefficient is less than 100, there is a disadvantage that the wool easily slips off, that is, the wool is easily detached from the filament and fluff is easily formed.

Further, those having a twist coefficient of 100 to 150 have a space between swellings and are suitable for use in autumn and winter, and those having a twist coefficient of 150 to 220 have an appropriate sharpness and are suitable for use in spring and summer.

 The twist coefficient is a value obtained by the following equation.

However, T: number of twists (times / m), N: metric count The wool for the conjugate fiber used in the present invention is 100% wool
In this case, the characteristics of wool can be exhibited, so that it is particularly preferable. However, other short fibers may be contained in a small amount as long as the object of the present invention can be achieved.

In this case, the wool blended with short fibers made of the normal pressure dyeable polyester, which is the material of the filament used in the present invention, has an increased polyester content, and thus has the effect of improving dimensional stability and wash & wear properties. Yes and preferred. In addition, it is preferable to mix spinning wool with normal pressure cationic dye-dyeable polyester short fiber, since a different color effect and anti-pill property are exhibited. As another combination, a mixture obtained by blending wool with normal pressure dyeable short fibers such as polyacryl, nylon and wire can also be preferably used.

Further, the polyester filament used in the present invention,
By mixing a small amount of filaments made of nylon, cationic dye dyeable polyester, polyester homopolymer, etc., a different color effect and a heat dyeing effect can be realized.

The mixing ratio of the polyester filament yarn and the short fiber of the composite fiber yarn used in the present invention is not particularly limited, but it is preferable to mix the filament at 5 to 50% by weight and the short fiber at 95 to 50% by weight. In this case, by increasing the proportion of short fibers, there is an advantage that the feeling effect is enhanced, and that the processing of composite fibers is easy.

Preferred examples of the form of the composite fiber yarn used in the present invention will be described with reference to the drawings.

FIG. 1 (a) is a side view of a sheath / core yarn type, in which a sheath portion is a short fiber 2 mainly composed of wool, and a core portion is a polyester filament 1 used in the present invention. FIG. 1 (b) shows a sectional view. FIG. 3 is a model diagram of a filament that shrinks due to dyeing heat after being combined and twisted. The one in Fig. 1 has the rigidity, strength, and high physical properties of the polyester in the core,
This is a preferred form in which the soft feeling of the short fibers of the sheath portion can be maximized.

FIG. 2 shows a silofil type in which filaments and short fibers are uniformly dispersed. Since there are many entanglement points between the filament and the wool, it is preferable because there are fewer feathers of the yarn, roundness of the yarn, glossiness of the filament, and refreshing feeling as compared with the type of FIG.

FIG. 3 shows a covering type, which has a smaller dispersibility than that of FIG. Since the filament is often exposed on the surface, a crisp feeling of the polyester can be obtained.

FIG. 4 shows a sheath-core yarn type in which the filament is a mixture of low-shrink yarn and high-shrink yarn. Due to the heat of dyeing, a yarn length difference appears, and the high shrinkage filament 1 in the core is entangled with the low shrinkage filament 1 'around the center. While the filament of FIG. 1 is a single yarn, it is the most preferable form in which the feeling of swelling and softness is increased and the functionality of polyester is also obtained.

Incidentally, the method for producing a composite fiber yarn of the present invention is, as is usually performed, by laying or laying a filament on a short fiber supplied from a fleece at the time of spinning the short fiber, and twisting it with a spindle via a front roller. can get. The sheath-core yarn type shown in FIG. 1 can be obtained by a method in which short fibers are kept in an open state, and a filament is superimposed on the short fibers and twisted. In the case of the silofil shown in FIG. 2, short fibers can be arranged on both sides, a filament can be blended in the center, and ply twisting can be obtained. In the case of FIG. 3, it can be obtained by arranging short fibers and filaments in parallel.

Dyeing can be carried out by using a disperse dye and an acid dye under normal pressure and with a non-carrier without dyeing. After dyeing, soap and finish in the usual way.

 Hereinafter, the present invention will be further described with reference to examples.

[Example] The evaluation items in the present example were measured as follows.

<Coloring lightness> The composite fiber yarn is dyed chromatic with a disperse dye and an acid dye.
The lightness of the surface of the dyed product is measured for L value (%) using a multi-source spectrophotometer MSC-2 (manufactured by Suga Test Instruments Co., Ltd.). The smaller the L value, the better the color developability.

<Homochromaticity> The color of wool dyed with a disperse dye in the same bath as polyester and further dyed with an acid dye was graded and judged (grade 5:
Very good pigment with no irritation.
Hue is similar and good without irritability. Third grade: Hue is somewhat similar and normal. Second tier: Hue is not similar but it is bad. First grade: Hue is completely dissimilar. bad. <Bending stiffness of fabric> Measured with a texture measuring instrument KES-FB-2 (manufactured by KATO TEC).

<Masatsu coefficient of fabric surface> KES-FB
-4 type (manufactured by KATO TEC).

<Evaluation of Hand of Fabric> The fabric was subjected to sensory evaluation in the following four stages. ◎: Soft, swelling, moderate tension and waist, ：: Good equivalent to this, △: Soft feeling, lack of swelling, hard and inferior, ×: Coarse and inferior.

<Fold abrasion strength of fabric> The JIS L 1096 A-3 method (universal type method) was used.

<Slipping property of composite fiber yarn> The step of winding the dyed composite fiber yarn in a cone shape using a winder with a guide is repeated 10 times. The degree of slipping of the wool staple from the filament yarn by the resistance of a guide or the like at the time of winding and the fluffiness of the wool staple were evaluated by the following five grades. Good with minimal fluff (grade 5), Good with minimal fluff (grade 4), normal (grade 3), with fluff, poor grade (grade 2), markedly fluffy, poor Things (1
Grade).

<Dyeing Concentration> The dyeing concentration (% owf) is a weight ratio of polyester to disperse dye and a weight ratio to wool of acid dye.

The overall evaluation was evaluated in four stages: ◎: most excellent, ○: good, Δ: slightly problematic, ×: problematic.

(Example 1) <Method for producing normal pressure dyeable polyester> 100 parts of dimethyl terephthalate, ethylene glycol 8
0 parts, 0.3 parts of antioxidant Irganox-1010 (manufactured by Ciba-Geigy), 0.01 parts of dimethylpolysiloxane (silicone oil manufactured by Toshiba Silicone Co., Ltd.), and 0.1 part of cobalt acetate.
A mixture of 04 parts and 0.04 part of antimony trioxide is heated to 130 ° C to 230 ° C.
Then, methanol was extracted and transesterification was performed, and then polyethylene glycol having an average molecular weight of 1,000 was added to 8.
Three parts were added, and the mixture was further reacted at 230 ° C. for 30 minutes. afterwards,
0.03 part of trimethyl phosphate was added, and after 5 minutes, 0.05
Part of titanium dioxide was added as a 20% by weight ethylene glycol slurry to obtain a low polymer. The resulting low polymer was gradually heated from 230 ° C to 280 ° C, and gradually decompressed from atmospheric pressure to a high vacuum of 1 mmHg or less for polycondensation, reforming to an intrinsic viscosity of 0.703 and a softening point of 257 ° C. Polyethylene terephthalate was obtained.

Average molecular weight in the polyester thus obtained
The copolymerization rate of 1000 polyethylene glycol is 7.5% by weight
(Example 1).

The copolymerization was carried out in exactly the same manner as described above except that 6.6 parts and 11.0 parts of polyethylene glycol having an average molecular weight of 1,000 were added, respectively. The copolymerization rate of polyethylene glycol having an average molecular weight of 1,000 was 6.0% by weight (Example 1), 10.0 % By weight (Example 1) of the copolymerized polyester was obtained.

The obtained polyester chips are dried at the atmospheric temperature
Drying was performed at 150 ° C. for 5 hours while maintaining a reduced pressure of 1 mmHg or less.
The dried chips were spun at a spinning temperature of 290 using a die having 24 holes.
The fiber was spun at a spinning speed of 1350 m / min. Subsequently, the film was drawn at a hot roller temperature of 80 ° C., a hot plate temperature of 165 ° C., a draw ratio of 3.37 times, and a drawing speed of 800 m / min to obtain a 50 denier, 24-filament yarn.

The obtained drawn yarn (Example 1) had a single fiber strength of 5.1 g / d,
Yarn properties were 30% elongation, 11% boiling, and 0.72 g / d shrinkage stress. The drawn yarn (Example 1) had a single fiber strength of 5.2 g.
/ d, elongation 31%, boiling 10.5, shrinkage stress 0.75g / d, drawn yarn (Example 1) single fiber strength 4.8g / d, elongation 34%, boiling 11
%, Shrinkage stress 0.71 g / d.

The three polyester filament yarns thus obtained were aligned to form 150D, and knitted socks of 24 gauge each were knitted.

Next, refining, setting and dyeing by the usual method, L ₉₈ , L ₁₃₀
Are shown in Table 1.

<Production method of dyed fabric of composite fiber yarn> Each of the drawn polyester yarns (50D) was wool 100
% (Equivalent to 138D) in the spinning process to form a conjugate fiber into a sheath-core yarn type as shown in FIG. As for the composite fiber, wool was opened in a spread state, a polyester drawn yarn was superimposed on the wool, and a twist was applied to a twist coefficient of 180 with a spindle via a front roller. Next, steaming was performed at 80 ° C. for 30 minutes, and twist setting was performed. The obtained composite fiber yarn
The No. 48 single yarn had a polyester content of 27% by weight.

Next, the composite fiber yarn was woven into a 2/1 twill fabric using the warp and weft yarns, respectively.

Next, continuous relaxing smelting in spread form (98 ° C, 7 minutes)
Then, it was sufficiently shrunk and heat-treated.

Then, wash and heat set (160 ° C, 40 seconds), 7% owf of the black disperse dye and Kayak, a black acidic dye for wool.
alan Black BGL (manufactured by Nippon Kayaku Co., Ltd.) 7% owf was mixed and dyed at 98 ° C. for 60 minutes without using a carrier. After dyeing, soda ash 1g /, non-ionic detergent 0.5
g / weak alkaline bath at 70 ℃, soaping for 20 minutes, washing with water,
Finished. The woven fabric had a finishing width of 154 cm, a vertical density of 102 / inch, and a horizontal density of 78 / inch. Table 1 shows the results.

(Comparative Examples 1 to 3) Polymerization and spinning were performed in exactly the same manner as in Example 1 except that the copolymerization ratio of polyethylene glycol having an average molecular weight of 1000 was changed.

In Comparative Example 1, the copolymerization rate of polyethylene glycol having an average molecular weight of 1000 was 4.5% by weight (Comparative Example 1), and in Comparative Example 2, the copolymerization rate of polyethylene glycol having an average molecular weight of 1000 was 12.5% by weight. (Comparative Example 2)
Comparative Example 3 is a case where a polyester homopolymer was used (Comparative Example 3).

The single fiber strength of the drawn yarn was 5.1 g / d (Comparative Example 1),
It was 2.8 g / d (Comparative Example 2) and 5.3 g / d (Comparative Example 3).

The three drawn polyester yarns thus obtained were drawn to 150D, and a sock knitted fabric was knitted with 24 gauge each, and the same evaluation as in Example 1 was performed. Further, the composite fiber yarn was plain woven, dyed, and evaluated in the same manner as in Example 1. The dyeing was performed only in Comparative Example 3, and Terrier Carrier V-10 (manufactured by Meisei Chemical Co., Ltd.) was used as the carrier.
Was added at 5% owf and staining was carried out at 115 ° C. for 60 minutes.

Samples obtained in Examples (Example 1, Example 1, Example 1
) Had excellent color developability and homochromaticity, had a soft feel, and exhibited extremely good properties without any problem.

On the other hand, among the samples obtained in Comparative Example, Comparative Examples 1 and 3
Did not show normal pressure dyeability and had poor color development. Comparative Example 2
Had a problem that the single fiber strength was low.

 The results are shown in Table 1.

(Example 2, Comparative Example 4) Polymerization and spinning were carried out in the same manner as in Example 1 except that 8.0% by weight of polyethylene glycol having an average molecular weight of 1000 was copolymerized.
Stretching while changing the hot plate temperature at the time of stretching to 120 ~ 180 ℃
6.7% (Example 2), 9.3% (Example 2)
) And 14.7% (Example 2). The single fiber strength was 5.0 g / d, 5.0 g / d, and 4.9 g / d, respectively, and the shrinkage stress was 0.70 g / d, 0.69 g / d, and 0.69 g / d. The drawn yarn was 75 denier and 36 filaments, indicating normal pressure dyeability.

Next, the obtained drawn polyester yarn is 100% wool (2%
(Corresponding to 00D) in the spinning process to form a composite fiber of silofil type as shown in FIG. The obtained composite fiber yarn had a 33rd single yarn, a twist coefficient of 130, and a polyester content of 27% by weight.

Next, after the twisted yarn was set by twisting, it was woven into a plain fabric using the warp and the weft, respectively. Weaving width is
170 cm, vertical density 85 pieces / inch, horizontal density 72 pieces / inch.

Next, refining and heat treatment, dyeing, setting, dyeing, finishing, and evaluation were performed in accordance with Example 1 except for the dyeing conditions.

The staining was performed by disperse staining Kayalon Poly Blue FBL-E.
(Nippon Kayaku Co., Ltd.) 0.1% owf, acid dye Kayanol Millin
g Blue BW (Nippon Kayaku Co., Ltd.) 0.1% owf mixed at 98 ℃,
Stained without carrier for 45 minutes. Table 2 shows the results.

On the other hand, as a comparative example, one in which the boiling temperature of the drawn yarn was controlled to 2.8% by increasing the hot plate temperature at the time of drawing (Comparative Example 4), and one in which the boiling temperature was reduced to 25.1% by lowering the hot plate temperature ( Comparative Example 4) was similarly evaluated in accordance with Example 2. Table 2 shows the results.

The samples (Example 2, Example 2, and Example 2) obtained in Example 2 had excellent feeling and showed extremely good characteristics without any problem of slipperiness.

On the other hand, among the samples obtained in Comparative Examples, Comparative Example 4 was inferior in slipperiness, and Comparative Example 4 was inferior in feeling.

(Example 3, Comparative Example 5) Polymerization and spinning were carried out in the same manner as in Example 1 except that polyethylene glycol having an average molecular weight of 1,000 was copolymerized at 7.5% by weight.
Stretching changes the hot plate temperature during stretching to 120-180 ° C,
The drawn yarn was subjected to a heat treatment at 180 to 210 ° C. while continuously running without using a spindle with a temporary twisting machine, to obtain drawn yarns having different boiling yields in the range of 4.0 to 22.5%. Stretching is non-shrinkable 30
Denier, 12 filaments.

Next, the drawn yarns having different boiling yields were entangled with air and mixed.

The mixed yarn is a mixed yarn of a low shrinkage yarn having a boiling point of 6.2% and a high shrinkage yarn of 15.9% (Example 3), and a mixture of a low shrinkage yarn having a boiling point of 6.2% and a high shrinkage yarn having a boiling point of 11.1%. Fine yarn (Example 3), boiling 4.0
% Low shrinkage yarn and 22.5% boiling yarn mixed yarn (Example 3). The single fiber strength and shrinkage stress of the mixed fiber are 5.2 g each.
/ d, 0.78 g / d (Example 3), 5.1 g / d, 0.72 g / d (Example 3), 4.8 g / d, and 0.79 g / d (Example 3). All showed normal pressure dyeability.

Next, 100% wool (equivalent to 133D) was mixed with the obtained mixed fiber (60D, 24 filament) into a sheath-core yarn type as shown in FIG. 4 in a spinning process. The resulting plied yarn is No. 52 single yarn, twist coefficient 120, polyester mixing ratio 34.
7% by weight.

Next, after setting by twist prevention at 85 ° C. for 30 minutes, steaming heat treatment was performed in a skein at 98 ° C. for 30 minutes. The heat treatment was performed under low tension and sufficiently relaxed.

Next, the package was dyed with a package dyeing machine, woven into a plain fabric using the warp and weft, refined, set, and finished. In addition, dyeing mixes brown disperse dye and brown acid milling dye, 98 ° C, 60 minutes,
Performed without using a carrier.

The DFL of the mixed fiber of the finished product was 9.7% (Example 3),
4.9% (Example 3) and 18.5% (Example 3). Table 3 shows the evaluation results.

On the other hand, as a comparative example, one having a DFL of 0% (Comparative Example 5)
) And 2.2% (Comparative Example 5) were evaluated in the same manner as in the examples. Table 3 shows the evaluation results.

The samples obtained in Example 3 (Example 3, Example 3, and Example 3) had a soft touch with a very swelling feeling, a moderate tension, and a wonderful feeling with a waist.

On the other hand, in Comparative Example, Comparative Example 5 had a problem of slipperiness. In Comparative Example 5, the feeling was rough and hard, which was a problem.

(Example 4, Comparative Example 6) The drawn yarn obtained in Example 1 was used, and the twist factor at the time of the conjugate fiber was 160 (Example 4), 110 (Example 4), and 200 (Example 4). And the fabric was evaluated in accordance with Example 1. The short fibers in the composite fibers are wool and 5 fibers.
A blended yarn with a polyester short fiber obtained by copolymerizing sodium sulfoisophthalate 4.9 mol% was used (blend ratio: 65% by weight wool). Table 4 shows the results.

On the other hand, as a comparative example, a twist coefficient of 80 (Comparative Example 6) and
250 (Comparative Example 6) were similarly evaluated, and the results are shown in Table 4.

The sample obtained in Example 4 (Example 4, Example 4,
Example 4) showed excellent characteristics, which was excellent in feeling and had no problem in slipperiness.

In addition, Example 4 with a large swelling feeling is used for autumn and winter,
Examples 4 and 4 having a crisp texture were suitable for spring and summer applications.

On the other hand, in Comparative Example, Comparative Example 6 has slipperiness, and Comparative Example 6
Had a hard texture and had problems.

[Effects of the Invention] According to the present invention, it has become possible to provide a composite fiber yarn composed of a polyester filament yarn and wool, which has excellent coloring properties and the same coloring property and also has excellent feeling and physical properties.

[Brief description of the drawings]

FIGS. 1 to 4 show examples of a conjugate fiber yarn of the polyester filament yarn of the present invention and short fibers mainly composed of wool. Fig. 1 shows a sheath-core yarn type, Fig. 2 shows a silofil type, Fig. 3 shows a covering type, and Fig. 4 shows a sheath-core yarn type of polyester mixed yarn. In each of the drawings, (a) shows a side view and (b) shows a cross-sectional view. In the figure, 1: polyester filament 1 ': low shrinkage yarn of mixed fiber 2: short fiber mainly composed of wool

──────────────────────────────────────────────────続 き Continuation of the front page (56) References JP-A-1-207432 (JP, A) JP-A-58-136821 (JP, A) JP-A-60-110948 (JP, A) JP-A 48-48 49370 (JP, A) JP-A-53-78384 (JP, A) JP-B-49-22854 (JP, B1) (58) Fields investigated (Int. Cl. ⁶ , DB name) D02G 3 / 38,3 / 04 D01F 6/86 301

Claims (2)

(57) [Claims] An ordinary dyeable dyeing composite fiber yarn comprising polyester filament yarn and wool, wherein the polyester filament yarn is obtained by copolymerizing 6.0 to 10% by weight of polyethylene glycol having an average molecular weight of 500 to 4000. The difference between the black lightness L ₉₈ when dyed at 98 ° C. and the black lightness L ₁₃₀ when dyed at 130 ° C. is 0.1% or less, and the polyester filament yarn has a single yarn strength of 3.0 to 6.0 g / d, and boiling water shrinkage. A polyester filament yarn characterized by being 3 to 23%, a shrinkage stress of 0.3 to 0.9 g / d, a short fiber mainly composed of wool, and being twisted in a spinning coefficient range of 100 to 220 during spinning. Wool composite fiber yarn. 2. A normal pressure dyeable composite fiber yarn comprising a polyester filament yarn and wool, wherein said polyester filament yarn is obtained by copolymerizing 6.0 to 10% by weight of polyethylene glycol having an average molecular weight of 500 to 4,000. Made of dyeable polyester, and the polyester filament yarn is a mixed fiber yarn consisting of a low shrinkage yarn and a high shrinkage yarn, twisted in the range of a wool-based short fiber and a twist coefficient of 100 to 220, and The yarn length difference between the low-shrink yarn and the high-shrink yarn of the mixed fiber is 3-20.
% Of polyester filament yarn and wool.