JPH09132838A - Interference fringe-inhibiting woven fabric-interliniing cloth - Google Patents

Abstract

PROBLEM TO BE SOLVED: To produce the subject cloth capable of inhibiting the generation of interference fringes caused by disturbance of the woven surface of the textile interlining cloth and having an excellent shape formability and an adjustability of feeling by using a false-twisted crimp-processed yarn intermittently having a large-crimped part and a small-crimped part as a warp yarn, etc., and weaving the yarn. SOLUTION: This interference fringe-inhibiting woven fabric interlining cloth is composed of a false-twisted crimp-processed yarn intermittently having a large-crimped part (a) and a small-crimped part (b) in the length direction as warp yarns (w1-w5) and/or weft yarns (F1-F5) and is obtained by weaving the yarns. A difference in the crimped number between the large-crimped part (a) and the small-crimped part (b) is >=10 and preferable average lengths of the small-crimped part (b) and the large-crimped part (a) are respectively 1-9mm.

Description

Detailed Description of the Invention

[0001]

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION 1. Field of the Invention The present invention relates to a woven fabric interlining with less generation of interference fringes.

[0002]

2. Description of the Related Art Conventionally, interlining has been used in the manufacture of clothes from the viewpoints of formability, texture adjustment, ease of sewing, and the like.

The most important performance required for interlining is that it can sufficiently follow the dimensional change of the surface material. To satisfy such performance, for example, Japanese Patent Application Laid-Open No. 62-97937.
In Japanese Patent Application Publication No. H06-229, warp and weft have a total fineness of 20 to 100 denier, a single yarn fineness of 5 denier or less, and a total crimp ratio of 15 to 4
A woven fabric interlining using 0% false twisted yarn and having improved dimensional followability to a surface material has been proposed. Also, Japanese Patent Laid-Open No. 2-11
Japanese Patent No. 8104 describes an adhesive interlining which is improved in softness, thinness, and lightness by using a polyester false twist textured yarn having a specific single yarn fineness, total fineness, crimp ratio, and number of fluffs. ing.

Recently, however, the material for clothing (outer material) has become thinner and is more transparent, and this tendency is particularly noticeable in spring and summer clothing.
When a conventional woven interlining made of false twisted yarn is used, the outer yarn and the inner yarn interfere with each other, and a pattern called an interference fringe (moire fringe) appears. In particular, this phenomenon is remarkable in an adhesive interlining. These interference fringes are extremely unpleasant for the appearance of clothes, and are a serious problem in the sewing industry.

As an interlining for preventing the occurrence of the interference fringes,
Nonwoven fabric interlinings having no weaving structure are known, but the nonwoven fabric interlinings have the drawback that the texture of the outer material may be impaired because they are largely deformed by external force.

Further, as a method of preventing interference fringes in the woven fabric interlining, there is known a method of using a twill structure or a satin structure with a reduced number of texture points, or a satin texture with a randomized texture point. However, in these methods, the effect of preventing interference fringes is small in reality, and since there are few tissue points,
This has the drawbacks that the warp (movement of the weaving yarn) is likely to occur, the function of the interlining cannot be sufficiently exhibited, and the weaving cost becomes high.

Further, in Japanese Patent Laid-Open No. 54-88364, it is attempted to prevent the occurrence of interference fringes by relaxing a woven fabric made of synthetic fiber bulk textured yarn so that the woven structure is not obvious. Textile interlining has been proposed. However, the effect of preventing the interference fringes of this textile interlining is extremely small, and its practicality is poor.

As described above, no woven fabric interlining capable of actually preventing the generation of interference fringes has been known so far, and when it is absolutely necessary to prevent the interference fringes, the woven fabric interlining is cut diagonally. I am using. However, this method has a problem that the sewing work is extremely complicated and costly, and the direction of deformation due to an external force is different from that of the outer material, so that the feeling of the outer material changes greatly.

[0009]

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION An object of the present invention is to solve the problems of the prior art and to provide a woven fabric interlining capable of preventing the generation of interference fringes at low cost.

[0010]

Means for Solving the Problems As a result of intensive studies to achieve the above object, the present inventors have found that the warp and weft constituting the interlining fabric have a large crimp portion and a small crimp portion. It has been found that it is sufficient to use mixed false twist crimped yarns, and the present invention has been completed.

That is, according to the present invention, (1) in a woven fabric interlining obtained by arranging a false twist crimped yarn on a warp yarn and / or a weft yarn, the false twist crimped yarn is Interference fringe-preventing textile interlining, which is a false twist crimped yarn having alternating large crimps and small crimps in the length direction, and (2) large crimps. (1) The interference fringe-preventing woven fabric interlining according to (1) above, wherein the difference in the number of crimps between the portion to be crimped and the portion to be crimped is 10 or more; The interference fringe-preventing textile interlining according to (1) or (2) above, wherein the average length of each part is 1 to 9 mm.

[0012]

BEST MODE FOR CARRYING OUT THE INVENTION The false twist crimped yarn used for the warp yarn and the weft yarn of the woven fabric interlining of the present invention has a portion having a large crimp and a portion having a smaller crimp alternately in the length direction thereof. Is a false twist crimped yarn existing in, polyester fiber, polyamide fiber, polyacrylonitrile fiber, polyethylene fiber,
An example is a crimped yarn obtained by subjecting a polypropylene fiber or the like to false twisting. Among them, polyester false twisted and crimped yarn is most preferably used from the viewpoint of interlining texture.

The total fineness of the crimped yarn is usually 100.
The number of single yarns is denier or less, and 20 or less. If the total fineness exceeds 100 denier, the weight and thickness of the interlining material will be large, and it is not usually used for thin surface material, but is used exclusively for hard-to-see thick material surface, so interference fringes are less likely to occur. However, the effects of the present invention are not sufficiently exhibited.

The false twist crimped yarn used in the present invention is required to have large crimped portions and small crimped portions alternating in the lengthwise direction.

Here, the small crimp portion means a portion where the difference in the number of crimps from the adjacent large crimp portion is 10 or more, preferably 15 or more, and the crimp is substantially formed. It also includes a flat part (less than 1 crimp) which does not have.

However, it does not include a portion (so-called untwisted portion) in which the crimp is substantially developed due to fusion or the like but the crimp is not expressed.

If the difference in the number of crimps is less than 10, the occurrence of interference fringes may not be sufficiently prevented. However, if the difference in the number of crimps is too large, the texture of the woven fabric will be poor, so it is preferable to stop at about 35 at most.

The average lengths of the large crimped portion and the small crimped portion are preferably 1 to 9 mm, respectively. If the average length is out of the above range, the occurrence of interference fringes may not be sufficiently prevented.

Further, if the average length of the portion with a small crimp is long, the stretchability of the obtained fabric interlining is impaired and the conformability to the outer material is deteriorated. The more preferable average length of the small crimped portion is 5
-9 mm and 1-5 mm.

The false-twist crimped yarn having such a large crimp portion and a small crimp portion in the lengthwise direction is produced by using, for example, a drawn false twisting device as shown in FIG. By simultaneously drawing and false-twisting synthetic fiber undrawn yarn,
Can be easily obtained.

In FIG. 3, an undrawn yarn 1 such as polyester fiber is wound around a heating roller 3 and a separate roller 4 a plurality of times via a supply roller 2 and heated in advance in a non-twisted state.

Next, while pressing the yarn separating point of the heating roller 3 with the pressing roller 5, the false twisting heater 6 and the false twisting tool (false twisting disk) 7 perform twisting and untwisting, and the heating roller 3
The draw roller 8 and the separate roller 9 which rotate at a peripheral speed higher than that of the press roller 4 are wound around the take-up roller 4 a plurality of times and taken up
The false twist is traced back to the pressing point (the point where the heating roller 3 separates from the yarn), and the unstretched yarn is drawn at the same time as the false twist without cooling.

After that, it is wound once around the gear-shaped heating roller 10 which is freely rotated by the tension of the running yarn, and is wound around the pan 12 by the spindle type winding device 11.

As shown in FIG. 4, the gear-shaped heating roller 10 has a gear-shaped surface, and when the yarn Y that has been drawn and false twisted is wound around the roller 10 and taken up, At the portion in contact with the gear tooth (convex portion) 10a, the crimp is reduced because it is heated and set under tension, and the portion located in the gear groove (concave portion) 10b is not affected by this roller. The original crimps will be developed.

As a result, a false twist crimped yarn having a large crimp portion and a small crimp portion alternately in the length direction is obtained. By changing the width of the teeth 10a of the roller 10, it is possible to easily change the average length of the portion where the crimp is small.

Further, in a conventionally known drawing false twisting device,
By twisting and untwisting the yarn while intermittently contacting the false twist heater using a traverse guide,
It is also possible to provide a crimp difference in the length direction of the yarn.

The textile interlining of the present invention, as shown in FIG.
A false twist crimped yarn in which a large crimp portion a and a small crimp portion b are mixed in the lengthwise direction of the yarn is a weaving yarn (warp yarn W1 to W1).
W5, the weft yarns F1 to F5), and the false twist crimped yarn has a large crimped portion a ′ as shown in FIG.
And a portion with a small crimp (a portion without a crimp is shown in the figure) b'alternately exist.

Examples of the woven structure of the textile interlining of the present invention include plain weave, twill weave, satin weave and satin weave.

In particular, a large crimp portion a and a small crimp portion b
In the case where the false twist crimped yarn having a twist is woven into a plain weave structure without twisting, when the raw fabric after weaving is subjected to warm water treatment in the dyeing step, the large crimp portion a has a large fiber disorder and shrinkage. Since the crimp expression is small in the part b where the crimp is small, the fiber is less disordered and the fiber has a slightly flat shape, the difference in shape between the two becomes large and the texture of the fabric is disturbed. This is preferable because the effect of preventing interference fringes is further improved.

The weaving density is not particularly limited, but a high density is desirable in terms of preventing interference fringes unless the texture is deteriorated.

The textile interlining of the present invention is usually used by applying a thermoplastic resin on one side. As the thermoplastic resin, a polyamide resin, a polyethylene resin, an ethylene vinyl acetate copolymer resin, or the like is suitable, and a coating method thereof is preferably single dot, double dot, mesh or the like.

The woven interlining of the present invention may be an adhesive interlining, a non-adhesive interlining, or a temporary adhesive interlining, but when used as an adhesive interlining in which interference fringes easily occur, the effect of the present invention is obtained. Is remarkably exhibited, which is preferable.

The interference fringe is an interference phenomenon which occurs when the voids between the weaving yarns of the outer material and the voids between the weaving yarns of the interlining are periodically overlapped, but the woven fabric interlining of the present invention is as shown in FIG. The false-twisted crimped yarns of the woven yarns (the warp yarns W1 to W5 and the weft yarns F1 to F5) have a large crimp portion “a” and a small crimp portion “b” alternately. When the eye surface is disturbed as much as or more than what was made, and when it is overlapped with the outer material, the gap between the weaving yarns of the outer material is uniform,
Even if it is periodic, it does not overlap with the random inter-woven yarn voids of the interlining with periodicity, and the occurrence of interference fringes is prevented.

[0034]

The present invention will be described in more detail with reference to the following examples. The average length and the presence or absence of interference fringes in the small crimped portion in the examples were measured by the following methods.

(1) Number of crimps Five 20 cm single yarns were randomly picked from the warp and weft of the woven fabric interlining, and a load of 0.002 g / denier was applied to them.
The number of crimp peaks per cm of the small crimp portion and the large crimp portion was measured under a microscope, and the average value thereof was calculated to be 1/2 of the crimp number.

(2) Average length of small crimped portion and large crimped portion 20 cm of 20 cm of warp and weft of the woven fabric interlining are randomly sampled and a load of 0.002 g / denier is applied. The average lengths of the small crimped portion and the large crimped portion were measured, and the average value thereof was determined.

(3) Presence or absence of interference fringes A densimeter (a device for measuring the weave density using the interference fringes) is placed on the obtained fabric interlining, and the presence or absence of the interference fringes is measured. Very good ones are shown by ⊚, interference fringes are not conspicuous and there is no problem in practical use, ∘ and interference fringes are conspicuous are shown by x.

(4) Shape conformability The shape conformability to the surface material when the obtained fabric interlining was used as an adhesive interlining was sensory-evaluated by an actual wearing test by five skilled persons.

A sample having a suitable stretchability and a very good form following property was indicated by ⊚, a sample having no practical problem was indicated by ◯, and a sample having poor form following property was indicated by x.

[Example 1] A polyethylene terephthalate unstretched yarn spun at a spinning speed of 1250 m / min was drawn by using a drawing false twisting device shown in FIG.
Simultaneous drawing false twisting is performed at 0 m / min, the peripheral speed of the heating roller 3 is 301 m / min, the temperature thereof is 90 ° C., the temperature of the false twist heater 6 is 250 ° C., and the peripheral speed of the stretching roller 8 is 900 m / min. , 30 denier / 10 filament false twist crimped yarn was obtained.

A triaxial friction type disk type false twisting tool is used as the false twisting tool 7, the peripheral speed of the disk is set to 1,800 m / min, and the tooth width on the surface of the gear-shaped heating roller 10 is 3 mm.
The distance between the teeth was 7 mm, and the surface temperature was 230 ° C.

The obtained false twist crimped yarn has a large crimp portion a and a small crimp portion b in the longitudinal direction, and the crimp of the small crimp portion is mixed. The number was 0.5 and the average length was 3.3 mm. The number of crimps in the most crimped portion was 25, and the average length was 7.1 mm.

This false twist crimped yarn was used as a warp and a weft without twisting, and woven into a plain weaving machine having a warp density of 31 yarns / cm, a weft density of 21 yarns / cm, a width of 100 cm and a length of 390 m.

This greige machine was subjected to a relaxation treatment (warm water at 95 ° C.) and subsequently subjected to a 20% weight reduction processing in an alkaline solution. Then, it is dyed at 130 ° C. for 30 minutes, coated with an antistatic agent as a finishing agent, air-dried, and then subjected to a final set (190 ° C., 45 seconds) to give a warp density of 37 / c.
A plain weave fabric having a m, a weft density of 24 fibers / cm and a width of 87 cm was obtained.

No interference fringes were detected by the densitometer, the presence or absence of interference fringes was ⊚, and this woven fabric had moderate stretchability (shape conformability ⊚) and soft touch.

[Comparative Example 1] In Example 1, the gear-shaped heating roller 10 was removed, the other conditions were the same as those in Example, and the simultaneous drawing and false-twisting process was performed, and the false-twist crimped yarn of 30 denier / 10 filament was obtained. Got

The obtained false twist crimped yarn was provided with uniform crimps in the lengthwise direction, and the large crimp portion and the small crimp portion were not mixed. .

Then, weaving and treatment were carried out in the same manner as in Example 1 to obtain a plain weave fabric.

In this woven fabric, interference fringes were conspicuous when measured with a densimeter, and the presence or absence of interference fringes was x.

[Examples 2 to 5] In Example 1, by changing the width of the teeth 10a of the gear-shaped heating roller 10, the average length of the small crimp portion and the large crimp portion is different. A false twist crimped yarn was obtained.

Using these false twist crimped yarns, weaving and treatment were carried out in the same manner as in Example 1.

The results are shown in Table 1 and are particularly excellent when the average length of the small crimp portion and the large crimp portion is in the range of 1 to 9 mm (Examples 3 and 4). The effect of preventing interference fringes was obtained.

Further, when the average lengths of the large crimp portion and the small crimp portion are in the ranges of 5 to 9 mm and 1 to 5 mm, respectively (Example 3), together with the effect of preventing interference fringes,
Particularly excellent conformability was obtained.

[0054]

[Table 1]

[0055]

As described above, according to the woven fabric interlining of the present invention, the false twist crimped yarn constituting the woven yarn (warp yarn, weft yarn) and the crimped portion having a large number of different forms and crimps are formed. Since the small parts of are alternately present, it is possible to prevent the occurrence of interference fringes by disturbing the textured surface of the fabric interlining, and it is possible to prevent interference fringes corresponding to the weight reduction and thinning of the outer material. Becomes Moreover, it is possible to manufacture at low cost without requiring a special manufacturing process.

[Brief description of the drawings]

FIG. 1 is an enlarged plan view showing an example of a fabric used for a fabric interlining of the present invention.

FIG. 2 is an enlarged plan view showing an example of false twist crimped yarn used in the present invention.

FIG. 3 is a schematic side view showing an example of an apparatus for producing a false twist crimped yarn suitable for use in the present invention.

FIG. 4 is a perspective view of the gear-shaped heating roller shown in FIG.

[Explanation of symbols]

 W1 to W5 Warp F1 to F5 Weft a, a ′ Large crimped portion b, b ′ Small crimped portion 1 Unstretched yarn 2 Supply roller 3 Heating roller 4 Separate roller 5 Pressing roller 6 False twist heater 7 Temporary Twisting tool (false twist disc) 8 Stretching roller 9 Separate roller 10 Gear-shaped heating roller 11 Spindle type winding device 12 Pane

Front page continuation (72) Inventor Mitsuo Matsumoto 3-4-1 Mihara, Ibaraki City, Osaka Prefecture Teijin Ltd. Osaka Research Center (72) Inventor Akio Kimura 3-4-1 Mihara, Ibaraki City, Osaka Teijin Limited Inside the Osaka Research Center

Claims (3)

[Claims] 1. A woven fabric interlining obtained by arranging a false twist crimped yarn on a warp yarn and / or a weft yarn, wherein the false twist crimped yarn has a large crimp in the longitudinal direction. Interference fringe-preventing textile interlining, which is a false twist crimped yarn having alternating portions and small crimp portions. 2. The interference fringe-preventing textile interlining according to claim 1, wherein the difference in the number of crimps between the large crimp portion and the small crimp portion is 10 or more. 3. The average length of the small crimp portion and the large crimp portion is 1 to 9 mm, respectively.
Interference fringe prevention woven fabric interlining.