JPH07238438A - Production of elastic woven fabric - Google Patents

Abstract

PURPOSE:To produce elastic woven fabrics having uniform stretchability in high productivity by effecting weaving operations, while the elasticity of the elastic yarns is tentatively lowered. CONSTITUTION:Core yarns including elastic yarn of polyurethane or polyetherester are pretreated with heat at 70 to 110 deg.C under the loading of a strength exceeding the inflection point in its strength-elongation curve to lower the strain less than 30% tentatively. The treated yarns are used as warp and weft to form prescribed woven fabrics by means of a fluid-jet loom such as a water jet loom. Subsequently, the woven fabrics are post-treated with humid heat such as hot water or steam over 95 deg.C to recover the elasticity whereby the object elastic woven fabrics having uniform stretchability in both warp and weft directions.

Description

Detailed Description of the Invention

[0001]

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION 1. Field of the Invention The present invention relates to a method for manufacturing an elastic woven fabric. More specifically, the present invention relates to a method for producing an elastic woven fabric having stretchability in the horizontal direction or in both the horizontal direction and the vertical direction.

[0002]

2. Description of the Related Art Elastic fabrics having elasticity by elastic yarns are used for various applications such as outerwear such as sportswear and underwear such as underwear. Such elastic fabrics fit the body exactly, stretch according to the movement of the body,
It gives a feeling of tight bondage to the body.

The elastic woven fabric having elasticity in the warp direction can easily make the tension applied to all warp yarns to the same magnitude even if elastic yarns are used as warp yarns because the warp yarns are stretched on the machine base. Since it can be adjusted, a fabric having uniform stretchability in the vertical direction can be easily obtained regardless of the type of elastic yarn.
In addition, elastic fabric with elasticity in the horizontal direction,
Conventional shuttle or shuttle (horizontal insertion rod)
In the case of weaving with a weaving machine using, the proper stretchability can be obtained even if the elastic yarn is used as the weft yarn.

In order to improve productivity and reduce noise, weaving in which a weft insertion motion is carried out by a jet such as an air jet or a water jet is now widely used for a conventional loom using a shuttle. .

[0005]

However, when the weft insertion motion of the elastic yarn is performed by the jet flow, the elastic fabric obtained has uneven stretchability in the weft direction. This is because it is impossible to constantly adjust the tension applied to the elastic yarn, which is a weft yarn, to the same magnitude for all the weft yarns by the weft insertion motion by the jet flow, and therefore each weft yarn that is an elastic yarn is caused by the jet flow. The reason for this is that they will be stretched out in different ways when placed horizontally, and will be beaten with uneven lengths. For this reason, it has not been possible to manufacture an elastic woven fabric having uniform stretchability by weaving in which weft insertion motion of elastic yarn is performed by a jet flow such as an air jet or a water jet which is widely adopted at present.

Under such circumstances, a shuttle loom or a leap loom is generally used as a means for obtaining an elastic woven fabric having uniform stretchability in the horizontal direction or in both the horizontal direction and the vertical direction. .
In view of the above circumstances, the present invention can utilize a weaving method in which an elastic fabric having stretchability in the horizontal direction or in both the horizontal direction and the vertical direction is subjected to a weft insertion motion of elastic yarns by a jet flow, and productivity is improved. An object is to provide a manufacturing method that is good and can be easily manufactured.

[0007]

In order to solve the above-mentioned problems, the present invention provides a method for preheating the elastic yarn under tension with a strength exceeding the inflection point in the strength-elongation diagram of the elastic yarn. After the treatment is performed to temporarily reduce the elasticity, the elastic yarn is subjected to a weft insertion motion by a jet flow for weaving, and the post-heat treatment of the woven product is performed to recover the elasticity of the elastic yarn. Is characterized by.

The elastic yarn used in the present invention is not particularly limited as long as it is elastic by the elastic fiber yarn. For example, the elastic fiber yarn, the core yarn of the elastic fiber yarn and the non-elastic fiber are wound in a sheath shape. Cospun yarn (CSY), single-covered yarn (SCY) and double-covered yarn (DCY) in which an inelastic yarn is wound around an elastic fiber yarn in a coil shape, a plied yarn of an elastic fiber yarn and an inelastic yarn, an elastic fiber yarn There are entangled yarns that are made by intertwining non-elastic yarns with an air jet.

The elastic fiber thread is not particularly limited as long as it is a thread made of a material having rubber-like elasticity, and examples thereof include polyurethane elastic thread and polyetherester elastic thread. Examples of the material of the above-mentioned inelastic fiber yarn combined with the elastic fiber yarn include cotton, hemp, wool, silk, polyester, nylon, acrylic, rayon, acetate, and their mixed spinning and mixed fiber.

In the present invention, as the elastic yarn, an elastic yarn in which the elasticity is greatly reduced by the heat pretreatment described later and the elasticity is recovered well by the thermal posttreatment is preferable, and a polyurethane elastic yarn, a polyetherester elastic yarn, etc. are preferable. Can be mentioned. Those characteristic values are preferably those with a small elongation strain and high heat treatment efficiency. In the present invention, the elastic yarn can be used only for the weft yarn, or for both the weft yarn and the warp yarn. For elastic yarns used for weft yarns, it is necessary to temporarily reduce elasticity by heat pretreatment, but for elastic yarns used for vertical yarns, heat pretreatment is used.
Either the material whose elasticity is temporarily reduced or the material which is not subjected to such a treatment can be used. Further, in the present invention, elastic yarns can be used for all the weft yarns, or elastic yarns for some of the weft yarns can be used. It is also possible to use elastic threads for the parts.

The heat pretreatment applied to the elastic yarn is carried out under tension with a strength exceeding the inflection point in the strength-elongation diagram of the elastic yarn. In the strength-elongation diagram of an elastic yarn showing the relationship between the strength and the elongation of the elastic yarn, in which the strength is plotted on the ordinate and the elongation is plotted on the abscissa, when a load is gradually applied from 0 to the elastic yarn. The region in which the amount of change in elongation is large with respect to the amount of change in initial load is the initial extension region. The inflection point of the present invention is a function that represents the relationship between the strength and the elongation of the elastic yarn defined in a region where the amount of change in elongation is small with respect to the amount of change in the load after the initial elongation region and the initial elongation region. It is the intersection of the functions that represent the relationship between the strength and the elongation of the elastic yarn defined by. The magnitude of the strength is not particularly limited as long as the strength exceeds the inflection point.

The heat pretreatment conditions are not particularly limited as long as the elasticity of the elastic yarn is reduced, but the elasticity of the elastic yarn is recoverable, and the elastic yarn has 0.10 g / denier or more. It is preferable that the elongation rate of the elastic yarn, which is defined by the ratio of the elongation to the original size when a tension is applied, is reduced to 30% or less, and the temperature condition of the thermal pretreatment is 70 ° C to 110 ° C. Is preferable, and the treatment is performed for several minutes to several tens of minutes. If the temperature is below this range, the elasticity may not be sufficiently reduced, and if the temperature is above this range, the elastic yarn may be hardened or deteriorated.

The heat pretreatment may be carried out any time before the elastic yarn is used as a weft yarn before being applied to the loom, and it is operationally preferable to carry out the heat pretreatment in a state of being wound on cheese. In this case, it is necessary to take sufficient time for the elastic yarn of the cheese inner layer to reach a predetermined processing temperature. These are clearly different in purpose from the conventional anti-twisting set, and after performing the anti-twisting set with a spinning tube yarn, add necessary winding tension to rewind the cheese and heat pretreat it. Because it is something to do,
Stretching is restrained by a twist set, which surely reduces elasticity and reduces elongation.

In the weaving of the present invention, usually, a process of preparing a warp yarn and setting it in a loom, a process of rewinding the weft yarn into a desired shape, and a warp yarn and a weft yarn by a loom so as to have a designed woven structure. This is done in the process of making the fabric by interlacing. In the present invention, weaving weft insertion motion is performed by a fluid (for example, air flow,
Since it is performed by a jet (water jet), a loom such as an air jet loom or a water jet loom is used. Since the elasticity of the elastic yarn is reduced, the weaving in the present invention can be performed in the same manner as the weaving of a normal non-elastic yarn, but preferably, the elastic yarn can be stably weft-inserted, Install a weft supply device that is fully equipped with a weft storage device that can control the unwinding of the elastic yarn from the package, and a kink stopping device. Also, the weft supply tension does not cause the weft to bend or warp. As described above, it is desirable to set it near the limit of low tension within the range in which it is stably stretched.

The woven fabric structure of the woven product obtained in the present invention is not particularly limited, and an appropriate woven fabric structure is adopted. The elasticity of the elastic yarn can be recovered by subjecting the woven product obtained as described above to a heat post-treatment. The heat post-treatment is preferably a treatment of immersing in hot water of 95 ° C or higher for 15 minutes or more, and steam of 95 ° C or higher is used for 1 minute.
Treatment for 5 minutes or more is also preferable. Normally, a woven fabric is processed through a scouring step and a dyeing step, so these scouring conditions or dyeing conditions are set so as to match the thermal post-treatment conditions for recovering the elasticity of the elastic yarn. Therefore, the heat treatment can be performed, and it is not necessary to add another step only for the heat treatment.

The elastic fabric thus obtained is
The elastic yarn has uniform stretchability in the horizontal direction, and when elastic yarn is also used for the vertical yarn, it has uniform stretchability in both the horizontal direction and the vertical direction. Used for applications such as clothing and sportswear.

[0017]

In the method for producing an elastic woven fabric of the present invention, the elastic yarn whose elasticity has been temporarily reduced by the heat pretreatment is used as the weft yarn in the weaving process, and the jet stream having high productivity and low noise is produced. When performing the weft insertion movement of the elastic thread by
Even if tension is applied to the weft thread, the weft insertion is carried out in a uniform tension state in which the weft thread is hardly stretched, so that a woven product that is uniform in the weft direction can be obtained. Moreover, the obtained woven product is subjected to the heat post-treatment to recover the elasticity of the elastic yarn, whereby the elastic woven fabric having the uniform elongation property in the horizontal direction is obtained.

[0018]

EXAMPLES Specific examples and comparative examples of the present invention will be shown below, but the present invention is not limited to the following examples. ──── Example 1 ──── The woven product was obtained through the steps 1 to 3 below, and then the woven product obtained was refined under the conditions shown in 4 to 6. Then, dyeing and finishing were sequentially performed to obtain an elastic woven fabric.

1. Weft preparation 140 denier spandex yarn (registered trademark "Operon" manufactured by DuPont Toray Co., Ltd.) is drafted 3.8 times, and cotton roving yarn (90 gellen / 30 yards) is wound around it in a sheath shape. Cotton yarn (card thread, spinning count 1
From the 6S) tube yarn, 40 g of rewinding tension was applied to the cheese to wind it up. This means that the tension of 40 g corresponds to a strength of 0.12 g / denier, and the elastic yarn is wound under tension with a strength exceeding the inflection point in the strength-elongation diagram. The cheese roll density is 0.331 to 0.335.
It was g / cm ³ .

As heat pretreatment, these cheeses were put into a steam setter, the inside of the steam setter was kept in a vacuum state (70 mmHg) for 5 minutes, and then, with high pressure steam,
The treatment was carried out at a temperature of 105 ° C. for a time of 20 minutes, and the vacuum state (73 mmHg) was maintained again for 5 minutes to complete the steam setting. The elongation of this cotton cospun yarn before heat pretreatment was 34.7%, and the elongation after heat pretreatment was 19.9%. However, the elongation is defined as the ratio of elongation to the original size when 0.10 g / denier tension is applied to the elastic yarn.

2. Warp yarn preparation The non-elastic yarn (cotton yarn 40S) was repeatedly processed in the order of warping, sizing, and warping according to a usual method. 3. Weaving air jet loom (LA21S manufactured by Nissan Motor Co., Ltd.
The weft yarn prepared above was set in a mold, and the warp yarn also prepared above was machined for weaving. The weaving conditions were a rotation number of 495 rpm, a vertical density of 95 fibers / inch, and a horizontal weaving number of 78 fibers / inch, and a GABA structure (2/1 twill). 4. Scouring Scouring was performed using a continuous desizing / scouring machine. After continuous treatment with steam at 103 ° C. for 10 minutes, enzymatic desizing (bacteria justase, pH 10) was performed at 80 ° C. for 25 minutes. After that, a mixed aqueous solution of 5 g / liter of caustic soda and 1 g / liter of Neugen SS was put in the scouring tank, and 8
After scouring at 0 ° C for 15 minutes, washing with water was carried out for 15 minutes, and finally drying was carried out at 110 ° C for 30 minutes. 5. Dyeing Dyeing is performed with a jet dyeing machine (manufactured by Nippon Dyeing Machine) using reactive dyes at 95 to 96 ° C for 40 minutes, followed by washing with water and drying for 10 minutes.
It was carried out at 5 ° C. for 40 minutes. 6. Finishing Resin texture processing is performed with 0.5% owf of resin mainly silicone resin compound to improve flexibility and sewability.
Drying was performed at 130 ° C. for 5 minutes. After that, a sunforizing finish (4% overfeed) was performed.

Example 2 In the same manner as in Example 1 except that the conditions for the thermal pretreatment in the weft yarn preparation were changed to 110 ° C. for 30 minutes. An elastic fabric was obtained. Example 3 ─────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────── Got

Example 4 In Example 1, the thermal post-treatment for recovering the elasticity of the elastic yarn is performed in the dyeing step, and the dyeing temperature is set to 105.
An elastic woven fabric was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1 except that the temperature was changed to 40 minutes (using a pressure cooker). Example 5 In Example 1, the thermal post-treatment for recovering the elasticity of the elastic yarn is performed in the refining step, and the refining temperature is set to 80 at the refining condition.
An elastic woven fabric was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1, except that the dyeing temperature was changed to 90 ° C., the time was 20 minutes, the dyeing temperature was changed to 90 ° C., and the time was changed to 60 minutes.

[0024] ─── drafting 70 denier spandex yarn as the elastic yarn ( "operon" in the same supra) to 4.0 times that used in Example 6─── weft yarn, in which, cotton yarn 20S and woolly Nylon yarn 15 denier, 5 filaments (manufactured by Toray Industries, Inc .; nylon "PTY") were entangled using an air entanglement machine equipped with a pneumatic nozzle, and then wound on cheese with 36 g of winding tension applied. And wound up. The tension of 36 g corresponds to 0.12 g / denier, which is the strength of the elastic yarn-
In the elongation diagram, it is wound under tension with a force that exceeds the inflection point. The winding density of the cheese of this air-entangled yarn was 0.283 to 0.287 g / cm ³ .

In Example 1, the weft yarn was changed to the above-mentioned entangled yarn, the heat pretreatment condition in the weft yarn preparation was changed to 90 ° C. for 30 minutes, and for the elastic yarn. An elastic woven fabric was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1 except that the heat treatment for recovering elasticity was performed in the dyeing step, and the dyeing temperature was changed to 98 ° C. and the time was changed to 45 minutes under the dyeing conditions.

Example 7 ---- 40 denier spandex yarn (the same "operon" as the above) was drafted 3.5 times as the elastic yarn used for the weft yarn, and this was used as the core yarn. Then, a single-covered yarn in which 70 denier wooly nylon yarn was sheathed was wound up on cheese as usual. To softly roll up the cheese, a rewinding tension of 9.8 g was applied and the cheese was rolled up again. The tension of 9.8 g corresponds to 0.12 g / denier, which means that the elastic yarn is wound under tension with a strength exceeding the inflection point in the strength-elongation diagram. The soft-rolled single-covered yarn cheese had a roll density of 0.225 to 0.230 g / cm ³ .

In Example 1, the weft was changed to the above soft-wound single covered yarn, the heat pretreatment condition in the weft preparation was changed to a temperature of 95 ° C. and a time of 15 minutes, and The thermal post-treatment for recovering the elasticity of the elastic yarn was performed in the scouring step, and the scouring temperature was changed to 80 ° C. for 20 minutes and the dyeing temperature was changed to 96 ° C. for 45 minutes under the scouring conditions. An elastic woven fabric was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1 except that the cotton yarn 40S was used as the warp yarn. This was suitable as a dress shirt fabric.

Example 8 ──────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────―― Except that the core yarn is used as the core yarn and the acrylic spun yarn ("Torayron" manufactured by Toray Industries, Inc., registered trademark, spinning count: 1/80) is wound in a sheath shape on the weft yarn. An elastic woven fabric was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1.

Comparative Example 1 Weaving was performed in the same manner as in Example 1 except that the thermal pretreatment in the weft yarn preparation was omitted.
In 1 to 2 minutes, the weft was entangled and ruptured, so that the woven fabric could not be produced. Comparative Example 2 In Example 1, the thermal pretreatment in the weft yarn preparation was omitted, and a 70 denier spandex yarn (same as the above) was drafted as an elastic yarn by a factor of 3.8. 20S
An elastic woven fabric was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1 except that a korspun yarn obtained by winding the above in a sheath shape was used.

Comparative Example 3 In Example 1, the thermal pretreatment in the weft yarn preparation was omitted, and a 70 denier spandex yarn (same as the above) was drafted as an elastic yarn 3.5 times. This and cotton thread 30S
And 100 denier water-soluble inelastic yarn (Nichibi Co., Ltd.)
An elastic woven fabric was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1 except that a product obtained by aligning and plying "Solvlon") was used. The elastic woven fabrics obtained in Examples 1 to 8 and Comparative Examples 1 to 3 were examined for tensile elongation, uniformity and weavability under the conditions shown in A to C below. A. Tensile elongation JIS L-1096 (A method; strip method), width 5.5
cm x length 30cm, 3 pieces in the horizontal direction are taken, and the gripping interval of the constant speed tensile tester is 20cm, and the pulling speed is 30
The lateral elongation (%) at the time of cutting was calculated under the condition of cm / min. B. Uniformity It shows the uniformity of the finishing width of the woven fabric standard. The width is measured in units of 5 yards in the vertical direction, and if the difference is less than 1/2 inch from the standard value, it is regarded as pass (○), On the other hand, 1 /
Those with a difference of 2 inches or more were regarded as rejects (x). C. Weaving property The number of stops (times / 100,000 picks) reflected in the available weaving time was measured.

Table 1 shows the results of A to C described above.

[0032]

[Table 1]

As shown in Table 1, in Comparative Example 1, weaving is impossible, and in Comparative Examples 2 and 3, both weavability and woven fabric quality are poor, and there are many problems that defective warp occurs. In each of the examples, the weavability was improved, the woven fabric quality was good, and the elastic woven fabric had almost the target tensile elongation.

[0034]

Industrial Applicability According to the method for producing an elastic woven fabric of the present invention, it is possible to produce an elastic woven fabric having uniform stretchability in the horizontal direction or in both the horizontal direction and the vertical direction. For the purpose of producing an elastic woven fabric having uniform stretchability, high productivity, and
When using an air-jet loom or a water-jet loom that performs a weft insertion motion with a low-noise jet, it is impossible to constantly adjust the tension applied to the weft elastic threads to the same size for all weft threads. Therefore, the weft yarn, which is an elastic yarn, is stretched in various ways by the weft insertion by the jet flow, and is repulsed with uneven length, so that it is not possible to manufacture an elastic woven fabric having uniform stretchability. The elastic yarn, whose elasticity has been temporarily reduced by heat pretreatment, is used for the weft yarn in the weaving process, and even if tension is applied to the weft yarn, it hardly expands and the elastic This can be solved by the present invention in which after the weft insertion motion of the yarn, the obtained woven product is subjected to heat post-treatment to restore the elasticity of the elastic yarn.

For thermal post-treatment, woven fabrics are
Usually, since the product is manufactured through the scouring step and the dyeing step, the heat post-treatment is performed by setting these scouring conditions or dyeing conditions so as to match the heat post-treatment conditions for recovering the elasticity of the elastic yarn. Therefore, it is not always necessary to add another step only for the thermal post-treatment, and the elastic woven fabric can be easily manufactured.

The elastic woven fabric having uniform stretchability in the horizontal direction or in both the horizontal direction and the vertical direction obtained by the present invention has a specific directional property in the stretchability of the conventional elastic woven fabric. The limitation of the application is solved and it can be expanded to various applications.

Claims (5)

[Claims] 1. The elastic yarn is subjected to thermal pretreatment under a tension applied with a strength exceeding an inflection point in a strength-elongation diagram of the elastic yarn to temporarily reduce its elasticity, and then, A method for producing an elastic woven fabric, which comprises weaving elastic yarns in a horizontal direction by a jet flow to weave them, and subjecting the woven product to heat post-treatment to recover the elasticity of the elastic yarns. 2. The method for producing an elastic woven fabric according to claim 1, wherein the thermal pretreatment is a treatment for reducing the elongation percentage of the elastic yarn to 30% or less. 3. The method for producing an elastic woven fabric according to claim 2, wherein the thermal pretreatment is performed at a temperature of 70 ° C. to 110 ° C. 4. The method for producing an elastic woven fabric according to claim 1, wherein the hot post-treatment of the woven product is a treatment of immersing the woven product in hot water of 95 ° C. or higher. 5. The method for producing an elastic woven fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the thermal post-treatment of the woven product is a treatment of applying steam at 95 ° C. or higher.