JP2004183113A - Stretchable bulky staple fiber woven or knitted fabric and method for producing the same - Google Patents
Stretchable bulky staple fiber woven or knitted fabric and method for producing the same Download PDFInfo
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Abstract
Description
【０００１】
【発明の属する技術分野】
本発明は、嵩高性に優れた短繊維織編物に関し、さらに詳しくは、スポーツインナーニット、スポーツアウターニット、カジュアルニット、セーター、ジャケット、パンツ、スカート、ユニフォーム、芯地、タオル、スカーフ、腹巻、靴下、クッション側地等に最適なバルキーで保温性、軽量、吸水速乾性等に優れるとともに、優れた抗ピル性を有するポリエステル系短繊維織編物及びその製造方法に関する。
【０００２】
【従来の技術】
従来よりポリエステル短繊維を用いた織編物は抗ピリング性（以下、抗ピル性とも表記）がなく、特に編物においてはその欠点が用途拡大の大きな障害となっている。しかしながら、カジュアルニットや学生用体育衣料、通学用衣料等にはエステル綿混紡ニット等はその低コスト性や生地の汎用性から抗ピル性が不十分なまま用途展開されているのが実状である。このような背景下、高品位で、かつソフト、バルキー、清涼感、または保温性、吸水速乾性等の快適性が付加されたポリエステル織編物は益々希求されており、これらの要求を満たすために、変性ポリエステル繊維を用いた紡績糸や結束紡績等による抗ピル性織編物が提案されているが、これらも以下の理由で十分な性能、特性を備えるものにはなっていない。
【０００３】
即ち、有機スルホン酸塩基含有化合物共重合ポリエステル繊維やリン含有化合物共重合ポリエステル繊維等の変性ポリエステル繊維は、レジン物性や紡糸、延伸工程などで繊維強度を低下させ、更には染色仕上げ工程で酸またはアルカリ浴中で加水分解して繊維強度（結節強度）を低下させ、生地表面の毛羽を脱落しやすくするものである（例えば、特許文献１、２）。しかし、このような変性ポリエステル繊維、特に有機スルホン酸塩基含有化合物共重合ポリエステル繊維においては、一般的な丸断面形状の繊維形態でさえも紡糸中に金属塩が析出し易く、紡糸性が悪く、異型断面繊維の紡出は尚更に困難さを増す。かつ繊維強度が弱いため紡績性が劣る欠点を有する。可紡性を向上させるために繊維強度を上げると、抗ピル性を得るためには染色加工工程で繊維強度を低下させることが必要であり、この染色加工で一定の品質を保つためには、厳密な加工管理が必要であり、製造工程が煩雑になる欠点がある。
【０００４】
このような変性ポリエステル繊維の染色加工において、処理液をｐＨ３〜４等の強酸性サイドで行なう場合は、処理中の液ｐＨの変化、バッチ間差を最小に制御することは困難であり、制御が不十分であれば生地の脆化や変色が発生し、実用生地強力低下や品位低下につながり、著しく製品価値を損ねてしまう。また、このような変性ポリエステル繊維で構成された生地は、染色加工品揚がりで糸または生地の強力低下のため、再染色加工が不可能で、極めて不経済である。また、これら変性ポリエステルと綿等の他繊維との混紡糸は変性ポリエステル１００％紡績糸の場合と異なり、弱い繊維が強い繊維に絡みつく構造になり、一般に抗ピル性を悪化させる傾向にある。
また、サイドバイサイド型潜在捲縮繊維を用いた伸縮性紡績糸は遍く知られている。（例えば、特許文献３など）この素材は捲縮を発現させるために液流染色機等で揉布処理を行なう必要があり、その際に生地表面上に多くの毛羽玉が発生する。そのため毛焼き及びアルカリ減量加工等により除去する工程が不可欠である。このような理由でシルク、ウール、アクリル、プロミックス、レーヨン、スパンデックス等のアルカリ耐性のない素材との混紡や交編織は不可能であった。
【０００５】
【特許文献１】
特開平７−１７３７１８号公報（請求項１など）
【特許文献２】
特開平８−１３２７４号公報（請求項１など）
【特許文献３】
特開平６−２８７８０９号公報（請求項１など）
【０００６】
【発明が解決しようとする課題】
本発明は、抗ピリング性（抗ピル性）で、かつ伸縮性で嵩高性に優れた短繊維織編物を提供しようとするものであり、抗ピル性を得るための特別な毛焼き、アルカリ減量加工などの必要がなく、紡糸、紡績さらには染色加工時の製造トラブルの発生が少なく、熱水処理などの簡単な処理だけで、かつエア交絡紡績糸でありながらソフトなバルキー性と抗ピル性とを合わせ持つ伸縮嵩高性に優れたポリエステル系短繊維織編物を得ようとするものである。
【０００７】
【発明が解決するための手段】
本発明は下記の構成からなる。
１．繊度１．０〜６．０ｄｔｅｘのサイドバイサイド型捲縮短繊維を少なくとも１０質量％含有するエア交絡紡績糸で構成され、抗ピリング性が３級以上であることを特徴とする伸縮嵩高性短繊維織編物。
２．前記エア交絡紡績糸が沸水収縮率（ＪＩＳ Ｌ １０１５に準拠）が４％以下の低収縮短繊維を少なくとも１０質量％含有することを特徴とする第１に記載の伸縮嵩高性短繊維織編物。
３．前記の捲縮短繊維又は／及び低収縮短繊維が、中空率５％以上の中空断面又は繊維断面外周上に一個以上の突起部を有する異型度１．８以上の異型断面のポリエステル系短繊維であることを特徴とする第１又は２に記載の伸縮嵩高性短繊維織編物。
４．繊度０．８〜４．０ｄｔｅｘのサイドバイサイド型潜在捲縮短繊維を少なくとも１０質量％含有するエア交絡紡績糸であり、かつ該紡績糸の毛羽数（Ｘ）と該紡績糸の断面繊維本数（Ｙ）との関係が下記（１）式を満足するエア交絡紡績糸を用いて織編物とし、次いで該織編物を熱収縮させることを特徴とする伸縮嵩高性短繊維織編物の製造方法。
０．４Ｙ≦Ｘ≦２．５Ｙ ・・・・・・ （１）式
Ｘ：長さ１ｍｍ以上の毛羽の１０ｍ当りの本数
Ｙ：紡績糸の断面繊維本数
紡績糸の断面繊維本数：５３１５×１．１１÷（英式綿番手×単繊維のｄｔｅｘ）
５．前記潜在捲縮短繊維が沸水収縮率（ＪＩＳ Ｌ １０１５に準拠）２０％以上であることを特徴とする第４に記載の伸縮嵩高性短繊維織編物の製造方法。
６．前記エア交絡紡績糸が、沸水収縮率（ＪＩＳ Ｌ １０１５に準拠）４％以下の低収縮短繊維を９０〜１０質量％、沸水収縮率（ＪＩＳ Ｌ １０１５に準拠）２０％以上の潜在捲縮短繊維を１０〜９０質量％含有することを特徴とする第４又は５に記載の伸縮嵩高性短繊維織編物の製造方法。
７．前記の潜在捲縮短繊維又は／及び低収縮短繊維が、中空率８％以上の中空断面または繊維断面外周上に一個以上の突起部を有する異型度１．８以上の異型断面のポリエステル系短繊維であることを特徴とする第４〜６のいずれかに記載の伸縮嵩高性短繊維織編物の製造方法。
【０００８】
本発明は熱収縮特性の大きなサイドバイサイド型潜在捲縮短繊維をエア交絡紡績糸として利用するものであり、特に潜在捲縮ポリエステル短繊維を他の繊維と混紡してエア交絡紡績糸形態にした後、織編物形態にて熱処理を施して十分な収縮を発現させ、繊維間に空隙を多く設ける糸構造にすることで、交絡繊維間の変形に対する柔軟性を高め、嵩性とソフト感及び伸縮性を付与するものである。更に染色加工時に繊維毛羽玉の原因となる潜在捲縮性繊維の多くを紡績糸内層部に閉じ込める構造にすることで毛羽玉発生を抑制し、特別な毛焼きやアルカリ減量加工などを施すことなく生地品位の改善を図るものである。
なお、以下、特に断わらない限り、繊維とは短繊維を意味する。
【０００９】
【発明の実施の形態】
本発明におけるサイドバイサイド型潜在捲縮短繊維は、ポリエチレンテレフタレート、ポリブチレンテレフタレート、ポリトリメチレンテレフタレートなどのホモポリエステルや該ポリエステルを基本骨格とし、第３、第４成分などが共重合された共重合ポリエステルなどから得られるポリエステル系潜在捲縮繊維が好ましい。例えば、一方の成分（Ａ）が汎用のホモポリエステルで他方の成分（Ｂ）がその共重合ポリエステルの組み合わせであり、（Ａ）／（Ｂ）の質量比率が４５／５５から５５／４５の程度の範囲であるサイドバイサイド型複合繊維等が採用される。
【００１０】
本発明における共重合ポリエステルの共重合成分として、熱収縮応力や熱収縮率の点からイソフタル酸、５−ナトリウムスルホイソフタル酸、アジピン酸、ネオペンチルグリコール、ジエチレングリコールなどの酸やグリコール成分を適宜選択して使用されるが、その共重合量は、高融点タイプでは４〜１８モル％が好ましく、より好ましくは、５〜１２モル％の範囲であり、低高融点タイプでは１２〜４０モル％が好ましく、より好ましくは、１８〜３０モル％の範囲である。共重合量が４モル％未満では繊維の収縮が不十分になり、また４０モル％を超えると、後加工時に応力緩和が起き易く、収縮力、原綿強力、熱安定性が低下する傾向がある。
より具体的には、融点が２４０〜２６０℃程度の高融点タイプとしては、ポリエチレンテレフタレート（Ａ）と５モル％のイソフタル酸と２モル％の５−ナトリウムスルホイソフタル酸が共重合された共重合ポリエステル（Ｂ）との組み合わせ、また、融点が１４０〜１６０℃程度の低融点タイプとしては、（Ｂ）成分が例えばネオペンチルグリコール３０モル％が共重合された共重合ポリエステルなどが採用される。混紡繊維がセルロース系繊維等の比較的耐熱性のある組み合わせには（Ｂ）成分が高融点タイプの、また比較的耐熱性が要求されないシルク、ウールなどを用いたニット用途には低融点タイプの採用が好ましい。
【００１１】
本発明における潜在捲縮繊維の熱水収縮率は、繊維の特性を損わず、収縮率が最大になる液中温度条件で求めるものであり、低融点タイプではボイル温度で、また高融点タイプでは高圧条件下で、フリー収縮率が２０％以上であることが好ましく、より好ましくは３０％以上である。熱水収縮率が２０％未満では収縮発現力が不十分で交絡繊維間の異収縮率差が得られずソフト風合や伸縮性が得られにくい。
【００１２】
潜在捲縮繊維の繊度は０．８ｄｔｅｘ以上、４．０ｄｔｅｘ以下、好ましくは１．０ｄｔｅｘ以上、３．３ｄｔｅｘ以下であり、より好ましくは２．５ｄｔｅｘ以下である。０．８ｄｔｅｘ未満では応力緩和し易く、収縮力が不十分で嵩性が得られないのみならず、紡績糸中の構成繊維本数が増し、毛羽が誘発されピリング要因になりやすいからである。４．０ｄｔｅｘを超えると、収縮力が増すが、紡績の機構上太繊度繊維が細繊度繊維より遠心力で紡績糸の外側に多く配される構造になり、潜在捲縮繊維が織編や染色工程、また製品着用や洗濯により擦過され、毛羽玉誘発機会が増し、抗ピル効果を著しく阻害するためである。そのため潜在捲縮繊維の繊度は混紡繊維と同等以下とし、紡績糸の内部に多く配される構造とすることが望ましい。
【００１３】
潜在捲縮繊維は、エア交絡紡績糸に紡績されて織編物となり、織編物状態で熱処理されて熱収縮することによって捲縮が発現される。したがって、本発明の織編物中では、繊度１．０〜６．０ｄｔｅｘ程度の捲縮繊維が存在することになる。
【００１４】
本発明におけるサイドバイサイド型潜在捲縮繊維の断面形状は、前記（Ａ）、（Ｂ）成分比の範囲であれば丸型の他、中空繊維や楕円、三角、Ｙ型、偏平、四角等の異型繊維であってもよい。中空型や異型形状は太繊度が得られ易く、一般に丸断面より熱応力が強い傾向がある。また、剛性があるため高速渦流に対し、抵抗が働き易く、外側に飛散されにくく構造とすることが可能であり、本発明ではより有効に作用する。また、混紡糸繊維間の収縮率差を得るためには潜在捲縮繊維の収縮発現力を高める必要があり、このような繊維形状は本発明の効果をより強調することが可能である。
【００１５】
本発明におけるサイドバイサイド型潜在捲縮繊維は、織編物の特性として３０％以上の高伸縮性を求める場合は、それ単独又は１００％近い状態で用いられるが、適度の伸縮性があればよく、織編物の実用特性を重視する場合は、沸水収縮率が４％以下の低収縮性の繊維と混紡して用いる。潜在捲縮繊維と混紡される低収縮性の混紡素材としては、剛性の強い繊維断面形状及び繊度（比重）のものが好ましくは、紡績糸外側に多く配され、潜在捲縮繊維を覆う紡績糸構造とすることが望ましい。それに見合う繊維として中空率８％以上の中空繊維や繊維外周上に一個以上の突起部を有する異型度１．８以上のポリエステル短繊維がある。
【００１６】
中空繊維の場合、中空部の断面形状は丸、楕円、三角、偏平、四角等であってもよい。また断面中の中空の個数は１個又は複数個でもよく、中空の形成は紡糸時でも、また、綿、糸、又は布帛で特定成分を溶解除去した後でもよい。中空率の合計は８％以上、４０％未満が好ましく、８％未満では収縮力が低下し、４０％以上では剛性、繊維形態保持性が低く、断面が潰れたりして収縮効果が減少してしまう傾向がある。
【００１７】
また、異型繊維の場合、異型度（外接円直径／内接円直径）は１．８以上であり、好ましくは２．０以上の繊維断面外周上に３個以上の突起部を有する異型断面形状（Ｙ型、十字型、星型、他の溝型等）を有する繊維であることが好ましい。異型度がそれ未満では応力緩和が大きく、混紡糸中での収縮力が発現されにくく、目的とするバルキー性やソフト風合が得られにくくなる。
【００１８】
低収縮繊維は、ボイル水中２０分間のフリー収縮での沸水収縮率が４％以下の繊維であれば特に限定はされないが、繊度、繊維断面形状などを任意に決めることができるので合成繊維が好ましく、特にポリエチレンテレフタレート、ポリブチレンテレフタレートなどに代表されるポリアルキレンテレフタレートなどのホモポリエステル繊維が好ましい。
【００１９】
紡績糸におけるサイドバイサイド型潜在捲縮繊維の混率は１０質量％以上、６０質量％以下が好ましく、更に好ましくは１５質量％以上、４５質量％以下である。特に高異型度繊維の場合には、収縮応力が強いため４０質量％以下であることが好ましい。混率が６０質量％を超えると、紡績糸自身の収縮が大きくなり、紡績糸としてのバルキー性が得られにくくなり、風合を損うことがある。また、１０質量％未満では十分な高収縮性の潜在捲縮繊維と低収縮繊維との収縮率差が得られず紡績糸のバルキー性が不足し、ソフト性が得られないことがある。
【００２０】
潜在捲縮繊維と混紡される低収縮繊維は、繊度が０．１〜５．０ｄｔｅｘ 程度であることが好ましく、さらには繊維断面の形状は、通常の中実の丸断面でもよいが、中空率８％以上の中空繊維、または異型度１．８以上のポリエステル短繊維であることが抗ピル性の点から好ましい。このような繊度、形態を有する繊維は繊維断面本数が少なく、かつ剛性が比較的強いため、繊維同士が絡合しにくく、抗ピル性が得られ易いからである。しかし、これらに限定されるものではなく、抗ピリング性が３級以上を満たすことができれば、綿、ウール、シルク、麻等の天然繊維、レーヨン、モダール、キュプラ、ポリノジック、リヨセル、アセテート（ジ、トリ）等の再生繊維、精製繊維、半合成繊維、ポリアミド繊維、ポリトリメチレンテレフタレート繊維、カチオン可染性や常圧可染性のポリエステル繊維、ポリアミド繊維とポリエステル繊維との２成分紡糸割繊型繊維等の合成繊維が使用でき、これらの繊維が混用されてもよい。
【００２１】
低収縮繊維の内の低収縮合成繊維は、酸化チタン、炭化ジルコニウムやカオリナイト等の無機粒子を０．１〜５．０質量％含んでいてもよい。酸化チタンや炭化ジルコニウム等を含有していると、体温からの放射熱を吸収し、繊維間内部に熱を蓄えるため保温性を高めることが可能である。また、酸化チタンは可視光線を吸収し、太陽光を遮り、夏場の衣服内温度上昇を妨げる効果がある。無機粒子の含有率が５．０質量％を超えると紡糸性が悪化し、１．０質量％未満では保温性や遮熱効果は得られにくい。
【００２２】
また、低収縮繊維が異型度２．４程度の高異型度Ｙ型断面繊維では繊維軸に対し直角方向に外力を受けた場合、柔軟に変形し、外力が取り除かれた後は回復するため適度なクッション効果があり、ソフト風合化に寄与し、長さ方向の変形に対しては中空断面形状繊維と同様に抵抗力があり、これが繊維間の絡合性を弱め、繊度との相乗効果も相俟って抗ピル性に効果的に作用する。
【００２３】
低収縮繊維の沸水収縮率は、潜在捲縮繊維との収縮率差を大きくし、バルキーでソフトな紡績糸を得るためには、４．０％以下であることが必要であり、好ましくは３．０％以下である。仕上品である織編物の混紡糸中の高収縮繊維と低収縮繊維の繊維長差は７％以上であることが好ましく、より好ましくは８％以上である。７％未満では生地としてバルキー性、ソフトさが乏しくなりやすい。紡績糸に含まれる添加物は前記酸化チタン、炭化ジルコニウム、カオリナイトなどの他、抗菌防臭剤、制菌剤、防かび剤、顔料等特に制約はない。
【００２４】
本発明における紡績糸の沸水収縮率は、８％以上が好ましく、更に好ましくは１２％以上である。潜在捲縮繊維１００％糸では２０％以上であることが好ましい。それ未満では十分な捲縮発現が起こらないことがあり、従って、伸縮性が得られにくくなることがある。本発明における混紡糸によれば、高収縮性の潜在捲縮繊維繊維と種々の特性の低収縮性繊維を含有することにより、紡績糸自身の収縮を適度に抑制してふくらみ感を出すため、適度の伸縮性を保持し、混紡素材の特徴が生かされたソフト風合が得られることになる。
【００２５】
本発明におけるエア交絡紡績糸の製造方法、即ち、高収縮性の潜在捲縮繊維単独又は他の低収縮繊維とから紡績糸を得る方法としては、カード混綿等の均一混綿方式の粗糸を用いることもできるが、好ましくは、スライバー混繊等による粗糸工程までに潜在捲縮繊維を芯部に多く配し、低収縮繊維を鞘部に多く配する芯鞘構造の粗糸とし、該粗糸を精紡工程でドラフトするか、または精紡工程のドラフトゾーンで潜在捲縮繊維と低収縮繊維の各粗糸をドラフト後、オープンエンド、結束紡績等の高速エア流体交絡することで得られる。これらのエア交絡紡績方式はリング紡績糸と異なり、構造体として糸毛羽を抑制する効果がある反面、風合が硬化しやすい。本発明においては紡績条件は紡績糸の風合、嵩性、抗ピル性に配慮する必要があり、交絡度合が増して風合が硬化する高エア圧下での低速紡出速度等は避けることが望ましい。
【００２６】
エア交絡紡績糸は繊維長が短く、細繊度である程高速渦流で飛散されやすく、紡績糸外側に多く配される傾向がある。そのため潜在捲縮繊維の繊維長は混紡繊維と同等以上とし、紡績糸の内層部に多く配されるような組み合せ構造とすることが好ましい。潜在捲縮繊維の繊維長は３８から５１ｍｍ程度が好ましく、混紡繊維はそれらと同等以下、例えば４４ｍｍから３２ｍｍ程度であることが望ましい。
【００２７】
本発明においては紡出された紡績糸は、該紡績糸の毛羽数（Ｘ）と該紡績糸の断面繊維本数（Ｙ）との関係が下記（１）式を満足するエア交絡紡績糸である。０．４Ｙ≦Ｘ≦２．５Ｙ ・・・・・・ （１）式
Ｘ：長さ１ｍｍ以上の毛羽の１０ｍ当りの本数
Ｙ：紡績糸の断面繊維本数
紡績糸の断面繊維本数：５３１５×１．１１÷（英式綿番手×単繊維のｄｔｅｘ）
但し、複数の異なる繊度の単繊維が混合使用されている場合は、その混合比率で毛羽数を計算し、合算する。
【００２８】
次いで、得られたエア交絡紡績糸を織編物にする際、該紡績糸を単独で用いてもよく、また本発明の範囲内であれば他の繊維と交編織してもよい。本発明の織編物は、スムース、天竺や綾、サテン等通常の織編組織の他、鹿の子、ジャカード、パイル等の浮き組織の多い織編組織において効果を発揮する。
【００２９】
さらに、得られた織編物は、一般的な精錬、リラックス、染色などと同様な熱水処理などの熱処理で、特に織編物を構成する紡績糸中の高収縮繊維を熱収縮させることによって、紡績糸のバルキー性を発現させてソフトな風合を呈し、かつ抗ピル性に優れ、目的とする短繊維織編物になる。
【００３０】
本発明における紡績糸は、沸水中では５％から４０％程度の収縮を起こす。このため、仕上った織編物の風合、目付、巾長さ等を考慮して紡績糸や生機設計をすることが必要である。本発明における紡績糸としての沸水収縮率は、８％以上が好ましく、更に好ましくは１２％以上である。染色加工においては紡績糸、また生地の持つ潜在収縮力を精練、リラックス工程、染色工程などで十分に発現させる必要があり、液流染色機の使用が望ましい。特に精練、リラックス工程において７０〜８０℃前後で１０〜２０分間程度均一で十分な弛緩処理を行った後、昇温することが望ましく、柔軟剤の併用も好ましい。
【００３１】
本発明における織物においては、他の繊維、特にセルロース系繊維等の品位、風合、物性改善のための毛焼き、シルケット加工等を行ってもよいが、合成繊維の抗ピル性を得るための特別の毛焼き、アルカリ減量、酸処理、シャリング等を行わずに仕上げることができるのが本発明の特徴である。編物においても同様に合成繊維の抗ピル性を得る目的でのアルカリ処理や酸処理を施す事なく仕上げる。他の繊維の抗ピル性を得るための樹脂加工や、スキンケア、抗菌防臭加工等を施してもよい。
【００３２】
【実施例】
以下、実施例によって本発明を説明する。
測定方法
▲１▼原綿繊維の熱水収縮率：ＪＩＳ Ｌ １０１５の熱水収縮率に準拠して 測定した。なお、沸水処理時間は２０分間であり、高融点タイプの潜在 捲縮繊維は１３０℃で２０分間である。
▲２▼紡績糸の毛羽数：敷島紡績株式会社製Ｆ−インデックステスターを使用し、１０ｍ当たりの長さ１ｍｍ以上の毛羽本数を求めた。
▲３▼生地の洗濯方法 ：ＪＩＳ Ｌ０２１７ １０３法に準拠した。
▲４▼生地の伸縮性：織物及び編物について、それぞれ以下の測定法に準拠した。（織物）ＪＩＳ Ｌ１０９６ 伸長率Ｂ法（定荷重法：１．４７Ｎ １分）
（編物）ＪＩＳ Ｌ１０１８ 定荷重時伸び率（カットストリップ法）
▲５▼生地の抗ピリング性：ＪＩＳ Ｌ１０７６ Ａ法（ＩＣＩ形試験機 ５時間 ）に準拠した。
▲６▼生地の風合評価 ：５人のパネラーの触感判定でソフトさ、嵩高性を評価した。
◎：ソフトで嵩高性に優れる、 ○：ソフトさ、嵩高性ほぼ良好、
×：硬くふくらみ感がなく不良
▲７▼総合評価： ◎は非常に良好、 ○は概ね良好、×は不良を意味する。
【００３３】
実施例１
（潜在捲縮ポリエステル繊維Ｉの製造）
ポリエステル（Ａ）として、ポリエチレンテレフタレート（固有粘度０．６０７、融点２６５℃）、ポリエステル（Ｂ）として、ポリエチレンテレフタレートを基本骨格とし、酸成分の４モル％がイソフタル酸、２モル％が５−ナトリウムスルホイソフタル酸である共重合ポリエステル（固有粘度０．６３７、融点２４８℃）を用い、複合紡糸ノズルを用いてポリマー温度２８２℃、紡糸速度１６００ｍ／分で紡糸した。その後延伸工程で延伸温度１５５℃、延伸倍率２．６４、延伸速度１４０ｍ／分で延伸し、捲縮付与後、カットファイバーとした。得られた中実丸断面のサイドバイサイド型潜在捲縮ポリエステル繊維Ｉ（繊度２．０ｄｔｅｘ、カット長３８ｍｍ）は、熱水収縮率（１３０℃、２０分間、フリー収縮）３７．８％であった。
得られた潜在捲縮ポリエステル繊維を、村田機械（株）製ムラタボルテックススピナーＭＶＳを用い、スライバーゲレンを３００、ドラフトを１８０倍とし、ノズル圧０．４５Ｍｐａ、紡出速度４００ｍ／分で紡績し、英式綿番手３０番のエア交絡紡績糸を得た。紡績糸は毛羽数（Ｙ）が２２５本、断面繊維本数（Ｘ）が９８本、Ｙ／Ｘが２．３であった。
【００３４】
得られた紡績糸を緯糸に、経糸に英式綿番手３０番手の綿糸を用いて２／１綾織物を得た。該織物を糊抜き精練後、液流染色機で１２０℃、２０分間リラックス後、脱水乾燥し、１７０℃、３０秒間の中間セットを施し、高圧液流染色機を用いて分散蛍光染料０．８％ｏｍｆで１３０℃で３０分間染色し、還元洗浄後脱水、乾燥後、綿の毛焼き工程を経て、１７０℃、３０秒間の仕上げセットを行った。中間セット後と仕上げセット後の生地品位、伸縮性、風合を評価した。得られた生地の評価結果を表１に示した。該織物は、毛羽数が１６０本で、中間セット、仕上げセットでも毛羽玉が殆どなく、生地伸長率が３４．２％で、若干のドライ感を有するソフトな織物であった。
【００３５】
比較例１
実施例１で得られた潜在捲縮ポリエステル繊維を用いて、粗糸１４０ゲレン、ドラフト３６倍、精紡機回転数９０００ｒｐｍでリング紡績糸（英式３０番手、撚係数３．２）を得た。得られたリング紡績糸を緯糸に用いる以外は実施例１と同様にして織物を得て、中間セット後と仕上セット後の生地品位、伸縮性、風合を評価し、その評価結果を表１に示した。生地の伸長率は３７．６％あるものの中間セット段階で既に全面に毛羽玉が発生し、生地品位不良を呈した。従来通り毛焼きとアルカリ減量処理による毛羽玉除去が必要な水準であった。
【００３６】
比較例２
（潜在捲縮ポリエステル繊維ＩＩの製造）
ポリエステル（Ａ）として、ポリエチレンテレフタレート（固有粘度０．６０７、融点２６５℃）、ポリエステル（Ｂ）として、ポリエチレンテレフタレートを基本骨格とし、グリコール成分の２．５モル％がジエチレングリコール、酸成分の１０モル％がイソフタル酸の共重合ポリエステル（固有粘度０．６４６）とポリエチレンテレフタレートを基本骨格とし、グリコール成分の３．３モル％がジエチレングリコール、酸成分の４．４モル％が５−ナトリウムスルホイソフタル酸である共重合ポリエステル（固有粘度０．３９０）とを５０／５０（質量比）で用いて得られた融点２４４．５℃の共重合ポリエステルを用い、複合紡糸ノズルを用いてポリマー温度２８５℃、紡糸速度１６００ｍ／分で紡糸した。その後延伸工程で延伸温度１５５℃、延伸倍率２．６４、延伸速度１４０ｍ／分で延伸し、捲縮付与後、カットファイバーとし、サイドバイサイド型潜在捲縮ポリエステル繊維（繊度１．０ｄｔｅｘ、カット長３８ｍｍ）を得た。該繊維の熱水収縮率（１３０℃、２０分間、フリー収縮）３６．５％であった。
得られた潜在捲縮ポリエステル繊維を用いて、英式綿番手３０番手のエア交絡紡績糸を得た。該紡績糸は毛羽数（Ｙ）が５９９本、断面繊維本数（Ｘ）が１９７本、Ｙ／Ｘが３．０であった。該紡績糸を用いて実施例１と同様にして仕上セット織物までを製造して同様に評価した。その評価結果を表１に示した。
【００３７】
【表１】
比較例１は従来のリング紡績糸の場合であり、織物の伸長率は３７．６％あるものの中間セット段階で既に全面に毛羽玉が発生し、生地品位不良を呈した。従来通り毛焼きとアルカリ減量処理による毛羽玉除去が必要な水準であった。比較例２は糸の毛羽数が多く、比較例１程多くはないが同様に中間セット工程で既に毛羽玉が発生しており、仕上セット後の品位はやはり毛焼き、アルカリ減量またはシャリングによる毛羽玉除去が必要な水準であり、実施例１に比べ品位の劣るものであった。
【００３９】
実施例２
（Ｙ型断面繊維の製造）
ポリエチレンテレフタレート（固有粘度０．６３３）を、Ｙ型断面繊維用紡糸ノズルを用いてポリマー温度２８８℃、紡糸速度１６００ｍ／分で紡糸した。その後延伸工程で延伸温度１１２℃、延伸倍率２．３２、延伸速度１４０ｍ／分で延伸し、捲縮付与後、カットファイバーとした。得られたＹ型断面の低収縮繊維（繊度１．３ｄｔｅｘ、異型度２．４、カット長３８ｍｍ）の沸水収縮率は１．４％であった。
得られたＹ型断面の低収縮繊維と前記の潜在捲縮ポリエステル繊維ＩＩとを用いてカード混綿後、村田機械（株）製ムラタボルテックススピナーＭＶＳを用い、スライバーゲレンを２００、ドラフトを１６０倍とし、ノズル圧０．４５Ｍｐａ、紡出速度４００ｍ／分で紡績し、英式綿番手４０番手の結束紡績糸を得た。紡績糸中の潜在捲縮ポリエステル繊維ＩＩの混率は２０％、低収縮繊維の混率は８０％であった。また、紡績糸は毛羽数（Ｙ）が２４５本、断面繊維本数（Ｘ）が１２０本、Ｙ／Ｘが２．２０であった。
得られた紡績糸を用いて、２８ゲージ、ループ長は１００ウェル当たり３２５ｍｍで天竺組織の編物を得た。該編物を開反し、液流染色機で精練剤とともに８０℃で１０分間の弛緩熱収縮処理した後、１１０℃まで昇温し、１０分間の熱収縮処理を行った。その後脱水乾燥し、有り巾で１７０℃、４０秒間の中間セットを施した。その後高圧液流染色機を用いて１３０℃で２０分間、分散蛍光染料０．８％ｏｍｆで染色し、還元洗浄、脱水乾燥後、有り巾で１６０℃、６０秒間の仕上セットを行なった。得られた生地の評価結果を表２に示した。
【００４０】
比較例４
紡績糸をリング紡績糸（比較例２記載と同様の製造方法）に変更する以外は実施例２と同様の繊維構成のリング紡績糸を得て、実施例２と同様に編物から仕上セット生地までを製造して評価した。その評価結果を表２に示した。
【００４１】
実施例３
実施例２における潜在捲縮ポリエステル繊維ＩＩの混率を３０％に変更し、Ｙ型断面繊維をレーヨン繊維（繊度１．７ｄｔｅｘ、カット長３８ｍｍ）に変更する以外は実施例２と同様にして紡績糸から仕上セット生地までを製造して評価した。評価結果を表２に示した。
【００４２】
実施例４
（潜在捲縮ポリエステル繊維ＩＩＩの製造）
ポリエステル（Ａ）として、ポリエチレンテレフタレート（固有粘度０．６２７、融点２６５℃）、ポリエステル（Ｂ）として、ポリエチレンテレフタレートを基本骨格とし、グリコール成分としてネオペンチルグリコールを３０モル％共重合した共重合ポリエステル（固有粘度０．６０７、融点１６２℃）を用い、複合紡糸ノズルを用いてポリマー温度２８２℃、紡糸速度１７００ｍ／分で紡糸した。その後延伸工程で延伸温度室温、延伸倍率２．５５、延伸速度１５０ｍ／分で延伸し、捲縮付与後、カットファイバーとした。得られた中実丸断面のサイドバイサイド型潜在捲縮ポリエステル繊維ＩＩＩ（繊度１．６ｄｔｅｘ、カット長３８ｍｍ）は、沸水収縮率５３．２％であった。
得られた潜在捲縮ポリエステル繊維ＩＩＩと前記のＹ型断面繊維とを用い、混綿方式をスライバー混綿方式（芯に潜在捲縮ポリエステル繊維ＩＩＩ、鞘部にＹ型断面繊維が多く配されるような芯鞘構造にした。）に変更し、かつＹ型断面繊維の混率８０％を７０％になるように変更する以外は実施例２と同様にして結束紡績糸、編物、開反生地を得た。次いで、７０℃でリラックス後、染色温度１００℃とし、中間セットを１３０℃、仕上セットを１２０℃とする以外は実施例２と同様にして仕上セット生地を得て評価した。評価結果を表２に示した。
【００４３】
実施例５
潜在捲縮ポリエステル繊維ＩＩＩを潜在捲縮ポリエステル繊維ＩＩに変更し、Ｙ型断面繊維を通常の中実丸断面ポリエチレンテレフタレート繊維（繊度２．０ｄｔｅｘ）に変更する以外は実施例４と同様にして、結束紡績糸から仕上セット生地までを得て評価した。評価結果を表２に示した。
【００４４】
比較例５
結束紡績糸を毛羽数（Ｙ）が１５本、断面繊維本数（Ｘ）が７４本、Ｙ／Ｘが０．２の非常に毛羽が少ない結束紡績糸に変更する以外は実施例５と同様にして仕上セット生地までを得て評価した。評価結果を表２に示した。
【００４５】
比較例６
通常の中実丸断面ポリエチレンテレフタレート繊維（繊度２．０ｄｔｅｘ）である低収縮繊維を単独で使用する以外は実施例２と同様にして紡績糸から仕上セット生地までを得て評価した。評価結果を表２に示した。
【００４６】
比較例７
実施例２において、潜在捲縮ポリエステル繊維ＩＩの繊度を４．４ｄｔｅｘに変更する以外は実施例２と同様にして、紡績糸から仕上セット生地までを得て評価した。評価結果を表２に示した。
【００４７】
【表２】
実施例２は毛羽数が少なく、ソフトでサラッとした風合で伸縮性は十分（定荷重時伸び率が３０％以上）で、潜在捲縮繊維を含まない比較例７に比較し、バルキーで２０．２％増しの目付に仕上がり、ピリングは４級と良好であった。実施例２と同様繊維構成で従来のリング紡績糸による比較例４はバルキーでソフト風合であったが、毛羽玉が全面に発生し、品位不良で、かつピリングが１級と不良であった。
実施例３は抗ピリング性が４−５級で抗ピル性がよく、適度なふくらみ感があり、リング紡績糸に近いソフトな風合に仕上がり、伸縮性、回復性とも十分で、インナー用に好適な水準に仕上がった。実施例４及び５は芯部に潜在捲縮繊維が多く配された芯鞘構造のスライバーを用いたもので、編地上には毛羽玉が殆どなく、ふくらみ感に富み、ソフトで抗ピリング性が４級と良好であった。特に収縮力の強い実施例４は実施例５よりふくらみと柔軟性があり、伸縮性と回復性に富む良好な編地に仕上がった。
【００４９】
比較例５は実施例５と同一構成で糸毛羽数が少ない水準で、交絡が強過ぎ、潜在捲縮繊維の特徴が生かされず、従来の単一繊維によるエア交絡紡績糸と大差のない硬い風合に仕上がり、伸縮性も殆どないものであった。比較例６はピリングはよいものの地薄で風合が硬く、実施例に比較し、見劣りするものであった。また、比較例７は毛羽数は少ないものの、編地の捲縮発現工程において毛羽玉が多発し、比較例４よりは少ないものの品位不良で実用性のないものであった。これは紡績糸表面に潜在捲縮性繊維が実施例より多く配された構造になっているためと考えられる。
【００５０】
【発明の効果】
本発明によれば、ポリエステル系短繊維を主体とする結束紡績糸使いの短繊維織編物でありながら、熱水処理などの簡単な処理だけで、抗ピル性のみならずソフトなバルキー性を兼備し、伸縮性にも優れた短繊維織編物を提供することができる。このため本発明によれば、ベア天竺のような生地の伸縮性と回復性を得るために不可欠なスパンデックスベアヤーン（裸糸）編込み装置が不要で、従来の編機で抗ピル性とバルキーでソフト性、伸縮回復性に富む編物を容易に製造することが可能である。[0001]
TECHNICAL FIELD OF THE INVENTION
The present invention relates to a short fiber woven knitted fabric excellent in bulkiness, and more particularly, sports inner knit, sports outer knit, casual knit, sweater, jacket, pants, skirt, uniform, interlining, towel, scarf, belly band, sock. The present invention relates to a polyester staple fiber woven or knitted fabric which is bulky and excellent in heat retention, light weight, water-absorbing quick-drying properties, etc., and has excellent anti-pill properties, and a method for producing the same.
[0002]
[Prior art]
Conventionally, a woven or knitted fabric using polyester short fiber has no anti-pilling property (hereinafter, also referred to as anti-pill property), and particularly in the case of a knitted fabric, its drawback has been a major obstacle to expanding applications. However, the fact is that ester cotton-blend knits and the like are used in casual knits, sportswear for students, clothing for commuting, etc., because of their low cost and versatility of the fabric, and their anti-pill properties are insufficient and their use is being developed. . Under such a background, polyester woven or knitted fabrics of high quality and added with softness, bulky, refreshing feeling, or comfort such as heat retention, water-absorbing quick-drying are increasingly demanded, and in order to satisfy these demands, Although anti-pill woven or knitted fabrics have been proposed, such as a spun yarn using a modified polyester fiber or a binding spinning, these have not been provided with sufficient performance and characteristics for the following reasons.
[0003]
That is, modified polyester fibers such as organic sulfonate group-containing compound copolymerized polyester fiber and phosphorus-containing compound copolymerized polyester fiber, reduce the fiber strength in resin physical properties and spinning, drawing step, etc., and further acid or It hydrolyzes in an alkaline bath to lower the fiber strength (knot strength) and to make the fluff on the fabric surface easily fall off (for example, Patent Documents 1 and 2). However, in such a modified polyester fiber, particularly in the organic sulfonic acid salt group-containing compound copolymerized polyester fiber, even in a general round cross-section fiber form, a metal salt easily precipitates during spinning, and the spinnability is poor, The spinning of irregular cross section fibers is even more difficult. In addition, there is a drawback that the spinnability is inferior due to low fiber strength. When the fiber strength is increased to improve the spinnability, it is necessary to reduce the fiber strength in the dyeing process in order to obtain anti-pill properties, and in order to maintain a certain quality in this dyeing process, There is a disadvantage that strict processing control is required and the manufacturing process becomes complicated.
[0004]
In such dyeing processing of the modified polyester fiber, when the treatment liquid is performed on the strongly acidic side such as pH 3-4, it is difficult to minimize the change in the pH of the liquid during the treatment and the difference between the batches. If the content is insufficient, embrittlement or discoloration of the fabric occurs, leading to a decrease in the strength of the practical fabric and a decrease in the quality, and significantly impairs the product value. In addition, fabrics composed of such modified polyester fibers are extremely uneconomical because re-dyeing is not possible due to the reduced strength of yarns or fabrics due to dyeing of the finished product. Also, unlike the case of 100% modified polyester spun yarn, a mixed spun yarn of the modified polyester and other fibers such as cotton has a structure in which weak fibers are entangled with strong fibers, and generally tends to deteriorate the anti-pill property.
Also, stretchable spun yarns using side-by-side latently crimped fibers are widely known. (For example, Patent Document 3 etc.) This material needs to be subjected to rubbing treatment with a liquid jet dyeing machine or the like in order to develop crimp, and at that time, a large number of fluff balls are generated on the fabric surface. Therefore, a process of removing by shaving and alkali weight reduction processing is indispensable. For these reasons, it has been impossible to mix or knit with silk, wool, acrylic, promix, rayon, spandex and other materials having no alkali resistance.
[0005]
[Patent Document 1]
JP-A-7-173718 (Claim 1 etc.)
[Patent Document 2]
JP-A-8-13274 (Claim 1 etc.)
[Patent Document 3]
JP-A-6-287809 (Claim 1 etc.)
[0006]
[Problems to be solved by the invention]
An object of the present invention is to provide a staple fiber woven or knitted fabric which is anti-pilling (anti-pilling), stretchable and excellent in bulkiness. Eliminates the need for processing, minimizes production troubles during spinning, spinning and dyeing, uses only simple processing such as hot water treatment, and has soft bulky and anti-pill properties despite being air entangled spun yarn It is intended to obtain a polyester staple fiber woven / knitted fabric having excellent stretch bulkiness and having both.
[0007]
Means for Solving the Invention
The present invention has the following configurations.
1. A stretchable and bulky short fiber woven or knitted fabric composed of an air-entangled spun yarn containing at least 10% by mass of side-by-side crimped short fibers having a fineness of 1.0 to 6.0 dtex and having an anti-pilling property of class 3 or higher. .
2. The stretchable bulky short fiber woven or knitted fabric according to claim 1, wherein the air-entangled spun yarn contains at least 10% by mass of low shrinkage short fibers having a boiling water shrinkage ratio (based on JIS L 1015) of 4% or less.
3. The crimped staple fiber and / or the low-shrink staple fiber is a polyester staple fiber having a hollow section having a hollow ratio of 5% or more or a modified section having a degree of irregularity of 1.8 or more and having one or more protrusions on the outer periphery of the fiber section. 3. The stretchable and bulky short fiber woven or knitted fabric according to the first or second aspect, wherein
4. An air-entangled spun yarn containing at least 10% by mass of side-by-side type latently crimped short fibers having a fineness of 0.8 to 4.0 dtex, and the number of fluffs (X) of the spun yarn and the number of cross-sectional fibers (Y) of the spun yarn A method for producing a stretchable bulky short fiber woven or knitted fabric, comprising forming a woven or knitted fabric using an air-entangled spun yarn satisfying the following formula (1), and then thermally shrinking the woven or knitted fabric.
0.4Y ≦ X ≦ 2.5Y (1)
X: Number of fluffs with a length of 1 mm or more per 10 m
Y: Number of cross-section fibers of spun yarn
Number of cross-section fibers of spun yarn: 5315 × 1.11 ÷ (English cotton count × dtex of single fiber)
5. The method for producing a stretchable bulky short fiber woven / knitted fabric according to claim 4, wherein the latently crimped short fiber has a boiling water shrinkage (according to JIS L 1015) of 20% or more.
6. The air-entangled spun yarn has 90 to 10% by mass of low-shrink short fibers having a boiling water shrinkage ratio of 4% or less (based on JIS L 1015) and latently crimped short fibers having a boiling water shrinkage ratio of 20% or more (based on JIS L 1015). The method for producing a stretchable and bulky staple fiber woven or knitted fabric according to the fourth or fifth aspect, which comprises 10 to 90% by mass.
7. The above-mentioned latently crimped staple fiber and / or low-shrink staple fiber has a hollow cross-section having a hollow ratio of 8% or more or one or more protrusions on the outer periphery of the fiber cross-section. The method for producing a stretchable and bulky short fiber woven or knitted fabric according to any one of claims 4 to 6, characterized in that:
[0008]
The present invention utilizes a side-by-side latently crimped short fiber having a large heat shrinkage property as an air-entangled spun yarn, particularly after blending a latently-crimped polyester short fiber with other fibers to form an air-entangled spun yarn. By applying heat treatment in the form of a woven or knitted fabric, a sufficient shrinkage is developed, and a yarn structure that provides many voids between the fibers increases the flexibility against deformation between the entangled fibers, and improves bulkiness, softness, and elasticity. Is to be granted. Furthermore, by using a structure in which many of the latently crimpable fibers that cause fluff in the dyeing process are confined in the inner layer of the spun yarn, fluff generation is suppressed, and no special baking or alkali weight reduction processing is performed. The purpose is to improve the quality of the dough.
Hereinafter, unless otherwise specified, a fiber means a short fiber.
[0009]
BEST MODE FOR CARRYING OUT THE INVENTION
The side-by-side latently crimped short fibers of the present invention include homopolyesters such as polyethylene terephthalate, polybutylene terephthalate, and polytrimethylene terephthalate, and copolymerized polyesters having the polyester as a basic skeleton and copolymerized with the third and fourth components. Is preferred. For example, one component (A) is a general-purpose homopolyester and the other component (B) is a combination of the copolymerized polyester, and the mass ratio of (A) / (B) is about 45/55 to 55/45. And the like are employed.
[0010]
As a copolymer component of the copolymerized polyester in the present invention, an acid or glycol component such as isophthalic acid, 5-sodium sulfoisophthalic acid, adipic acid, neopentyl glycol, and diethylene glycol is appropriately selected from the viewpoint of heat shrinkage stress and heat shrinkage. The copolymerization amount is preferably 4 to 18 mol%, more preferably 5 to 12 mol%, for the high melting point type, and preferably 12 to 40 mol% for the low melting point type. , More preferably in the range of 18 to 30 mol%. If the copolymerization amount is less than 4 mol%, the fiber shrinkage becomes insufficient, and if it exceeds 40 mol%, stress relaxation is likely to occur during post-processing, and the shrinkage force, raw cotton strength, and thermal stability tend to decrease. .
More specifically, as the high melting point type having a melting point of about 240 to 260 ° C., a copolymer obtained by copolymerizing polyethylene terephthalate (A), 5 mol% of isophthalic acid, and 2 mol% of 5-sodium sulfoisophthalic acid is used. As the combination with the polyester (B) and the low-melting type having a melting point of about 140 to 160 ° C., a copolymerized polyester in which the component (B) is copolymerized with, for example, 30 mol% of neopentyl glycol is used. The component (B) has a high melting point type when the blended fiber is a relatively heat-resistant combination such as a cellulosic fiber, and a low melting point type for a knit using silk, wool or the like which does not require relatively high heat resistance. Adoption is preferred.
[0011]
The hot water shrinkage of the latently crimped fiber in the present invention is determined at the temperature in the liquid at which the shrinkage is maximized without impairing the properties of the fiber. Under high pressure conditions, the free shrinkage is preferably 20% or more, more preferably 30% or more. When the hot water shrinkage is less than 20%, the shrinkage expression power is insufficient, so that a difference in the different shrinkage between the entangled fibers cannot be obtained, and it is difficult to obtain a soft feeling and elasticity.
[0012]
The fineness of the latent crimped fiber is 0.8 dtex or more and 4.0 dtex or less, preferably 1.0 dtex or more and 3.3 dtex or less, more preferably 2.5 dtex or less. If it is less than 0.8 dtex, the stress is easily relaxed, the shrinkage is insufficient, and bulkiness cannot be obtained, but also the number of constituent fibers in the spun yarn increases, and fluff is induced, which is likely to be a pilling factor. If it exceeds 4.0 dtex, the shrinkage force increases, but due to the mechanism of spinning, large fine fibers are arranged more outside the spun yarn by centrifugal force than fine fine fibers, and the latently crimped fibers are woven or dyed. This is because it is rubbed by the process, product wearing and washing, and the chance of inducing fluff is increased, thereby significantly inhibiting the anti-pill effect. Therefore, it is desirable that the fineness of the latently crimped fiber be equal to or less than that of the blended fiber, and be a structure in which a large amount is disposed inside the spun yarn.
[0013]
The latently crimped fiber is spun into an air-entangled spun yarn to form a woven or knitted fabric, and is heat-treated in a woven or knitted state and thermally shrunk to exhibit crimp. Accordingly, crimped fibers having a fineness of about 1.0 to 6.0 dtex are present in the woven or knitted fabric of the present invention.
[0014]
The cross-sectional shape of the side-by-side latently crimped fiber in the present invention may be round, hollow fiber, elliptical, triangular, Y-shaped, flat, square, etc., as long as the component ratio is within the range of (A) and (B). It may be a fiber. Hollow or irregular shapes tend to have large fineness and generally have a higher thermal stress than a round cross section. In addition, because of the rigidity, resistance can easily act on high-speed eddy currents, and it is possible to make the structure hard to be scattered outward, so that the present invention works more effectively. In addition, in order to obtain a difference in shrinkage ratio between blended fibers, it is necessary to increase the shrinkage developing power of the latently crimped fiber, and such a fiber shape can further emphasize the effects of the present invention.
[0015]
The side-by-side latently crimped fiber of the present invention is used alone or in a state close to 100% when a high elasticity of 30% or more is required as a characteristic of the woven or knitted fabric. When emphasizing the practical characteristics of the knitted fabric, it is used by blending with a low shrinkage fiber having a boiling water shrinkage of 4% or less. As the low-shrinkage blended material blended with the latent crimped fiber, a material having a strong rigid fiber cross-sectional shape and fineness (specific gravity) is preferably used. It is desirable to have a structure. Suitable fibers include hollow fibers having a hollow ratio of 8% or more and polyester short fibers having an irregularity of 1.8 or more and having one or more protrusions on the outer periphery of the fibers.
[0016]
In the case of a hollow fiber, the cross-sectional shape of the hollow portion may be a circle, an ellipse, a triangle, a flat, a square, or the like. The number of hollows in the cross section may be one or more. The hollows may be formed at the time of spinning, or after the specific components are dissolved and removed with cotton, yarn, or fabric. The total hollow ratio is preferably 8% or more and less than 40%. If it is less than 8%, the shrinkage force is reduced, and if it is more than 40%, the rigidity and fiber form retention are low, and the cross-section is crushed and the shrinkage effect is reduced. There is a tendency.
[0017]
Moreover, in the case of the heterogeneous fiber, the degree of heterogeneity (circumscribed circle diameter / inscribed circle diameter) is 1.8 or more, and preferably irregular shape cross-sectional shape having three or more protrusions on the outer periphery of the fiber cross-section of 2.0 or more. (Y-type, cross-type, star-type, other groove-type, etc.) are preferable. If the degree of irregularity is less than this, stress relaxation is large, and it is difficult to exhibit a shrinkage force in the blended yarn, and it is difficult to obtain the desired bulky property and soft feeling.
[0018]
The low shrinkage fiber is not particularly limited as long as it has a boiling water shrinkage ratio of 4% or less in free shrinkage in boiled water for 20 minutes, but synthetic fibers are preferable since the fineness and fiber cross-sectional shape can be arbitrarily determined. In particular, homopolyester fibers such as polyalkylene terephthalate represented by polyethylene terephthalate and polybutylene terephthalate are preferred.
[0019]
The mixing ratio of the side-by-side latent crimped fiber in the spun yarn is preferably from 10% by mass to 60% by mass, and more preferably from 15% by mass to 45% by mass. In particular, in the case of a fiber having a high degree of irregularity, the shrinkage stress is strong, so that it is preferably 40% by mass or less. If the mixing ratio exceeds 60% by mass, the spun yarn itself shrinks greatly, and it becomes difficult to obtain bulky properties as the spun yarn, which may impair the feeling. If the amount is less than 10% by mass, a sufficient difference in shrinkage between the latently crimped fiber having high shrinkage and the low shrinkage fiber cannot be obtained, and the bulky properties of the spun yarn may be insufficient, so that softness may not be obtained.
[0020]
The low shrinkage fiber blended with the latent crimped fiber preferably has a fineness of about 0.1 to 5.0 dtex, and the fiber cross section may have a normal solid round cross section. A hollow fiber of 8% or more or a polyester short fiber having a degree of irregularity of 1.8 or more is preferable from the viewpoint of anti-pill property. This is because fibers having such fineness and form have a small number of fiber cross-sections and a relatively high rigidity, so that the fibers are unlikely to be entangled with each other and anti-pill properties are easily obtained. However, the present invention is not limited thereto, and if the anti-pilling property can satisfy the third grade or higher, natural fibers such as cotton, wool, silk, hemp, rayon, modal, cupra, polynosic, lyocell, acetate (di, Recycled fiber such as Tori), purified fiber, semi-synthetic fiber, polyamide fiber, polytrimethylene terephthalate fiber, cationic dyeable or normal pressure dyeable polyester fiber, and two-component spinning split type of polyamide fiber and polyester fiber Synthetic fibers such as fibers can be used, and these fibers may be mixed.
[0021]
The low-shrinkage synthetic fibers among the low-shrinkage fibers may contain 0.1 to 5.0% by mass of inorganic particles such as titanium oxide, zirconium carbide and kaolinite. When titanium oxide, zirconium carbide, or the like is contained, radiant heat from body temperature is absorbed, and heat is stored in the space between the fibers, so that the heat retention can be enhanced. Further, titanium oxide has an effect of absorbing visible light, blocking sunlight, and preventing a rise in temperature in clothes in summer. When the content of the inorganic particles exceeds 5.0% by mass, spinnability deteriorates, and when the content is less than 1.0% by mass, it is difficult to obtain a heat retaining property and a heat shielding effect.
[0022]
In addition, the low-shrinkage fiber has a high degree of irregularity of about 2.4 and the Y-shaped cross-section fiber is deformed flexibly when subjected to an external force in a direction perpendicular to the fiber axis, and recovers after the external force is removed. It has a soft cushioning effect, contributes to softening, and has the same resistance to longitudinal deformation as hollow cross-section fibers, which weakens the entanglement between fibers and has a synergistic effect with fineness. Together, they effectively act on anti-pill properties.
[0023]
The boiling water shrinkage of the low shrinkage fiber must be 4.0% or less, preferably 3% or less, in order to increase the difference in shrinkage from the latently crimped fiber and obtain a bulky and soft spun yarn. 0.0% or less. The fiber length difference between the high shrinkage fiber and the low shrinkage fiber in the blended yarn of the woven or knitted fabric as the finish is preferably 7% or more, more preferably 8% or more. If it is less than 7%, the bulkiness and softness of the fabric tend to be poor. Additives contained in the spun yarn are not particularly limited, such as the above-mentioned titanium oxide, zirconium carbide, kaolinite, etc., as well as antibacterial deodorants, bacteriostats, fungicides, pigments and the like.
[0024]
The boiling water shrinkage of the spun yarn in the present invention is preferably 8% or more, more preferably 12% or more. It is preferably 20% or more for a 100% latently crimped fiber yarn. If it is less than this, sufficient crimping may not occur, and therefore, it may be difficult to obtain elasticity. According to the blended yarn of the present invention, by containing a high shrinkage latent crimped fiber fiber and various properties of low shrinkage fiber, to moderately suppress the shrinkage of the spun yarn itself to give a swelling feeling, A soft feel that retains moderate elasticity and makes use of the characteristics of the blended material can be obtained.
[0025]
The method for producing an air-entangled spun yarn in the present invention, that is, a method for obtaining a spun yarn from a high-shrinkage latently crimped fiber alone or another low-shrinkage fiber uses a roving yarn of a uniform blending type such as card blending. However, it is preferable to provide a core-sheath structure roving in which a lot of latently crimped fibers are arranged in the core by the roving step by sliver blending or the like, and a lot of low shrinkage fibers are arranged in the sheath, and the roving is performed. It is obtained by drafting the yarn in the spinning process or by drafting each roving of latently crimped fiber and low shrinkage fiber in the draft zone of the spinning process, and then entangled with high-speed air fluid such as open-end and binding spinning. . These air entangled spinning methods are different from ring spun yarns in that they have the effect of suppressing yarn fuzz as a structure, but tend to harden the feel. In the present invention, the spinning conditions need to consider the feeling, bulkiness, and pill resistance of the spun yarn, and avoid low-speed spinning speed under high air pressure where the degree of entanglement increases and the feeling hardens. desirable.
[0026]
The air-entangled spun yarn has a short fiber length and is liable to be scattered by a high-speed vortex as the fineness is small, and tends to be distributed more outside the spun yarn. Therefore, it is preferable that the fiber length of the latently crimped fiber is equal to or longer than that of the blended fiber, and that the fiber has a combination structure in which the latent crimped fiber is arranged more in the inner layer portion of the spun yarn. The fiber length of the latently crimped fiber is preferably about 38 to 51 mm, and the length of the blended fiber is preferably equal to or less than them, for example, about 44 to 32 mm.
[0027]
In the present invention, the spun spun yarn is an air-entangled spun yarn in which the relationship between the number of fluffs (X) of the spun yarn and the number of cross-sectional fibers (Y) of the spun yarn satisfies the following expression (1). . 0.4Y ≦ X ≦ 2.5Y (1)
X: Number of fluffs with a length of 1 mm or more per 10 m
Y: Number of cross-section fibers of spun yarn
Number of cross-section fibers of spun yarn: 5315 × 1.11 ÷ (English cotton count × dtex of single fiber)
However, when a plurality of single fibers having different densities are mixed and used, the number of fluffs is calculated based on the mixing ratio and added.
[0028]
Then, when the obtained air-entangled spun yarn is formed into a woven or knitted fabric, the spun yarn may be used alone, or may be mixed and knitted with other fibers within the scope of the present invention. The woven or knitted fabric of the present invention is effective in a woven or knitted fabric having a large floating structure such as a fawn, a jacquard or a pile, in addition to a normal woven or knitted structure such as smooth, sheet of cloth, twill, and satin.
[0029]
Furthermore, the obtained woven or knitted fabric is spun by heat treatment such as hot water treatment similar to general refining, relaxation, dyeing, etc., in particular, by thermally shrinking the high shrinkage fibers in the spun yarn constituting the woven or knitted fabric. The bulky property of the yarn is exhibited to give a soft feeling and excellent pill resistance, and the desired short fiber woven or knitted fabric is obtained.
[0030]
The spun yarn in the present invention shrinks by about 5% to about 40% in boiling water. For this reason, it is necessary to design a spun yarn or a greige machine in consideration of the feeling, the basis weight, the width, and the like of the finished woven or knitted fabric. The boiling water shrinkage rate of the spun yarn in the present invention is preferably 8% or more, more preferably 12% or more. In the dyeing process, it is necessary to sufficiently express the latent shrinkage of the spun yarn or the fabric in the scouring, relaxation step, dyeing step, and the like, and it is preferable to use a jet dyeing machine. In particular, it is desirable to perform a uniform and sufficient relaxation treatment at about 70 to 80 ° C. for about 10 to 20 minutes in the scouring and relaxing steps, and then to raise the temperature, and it is also preferable to use a softener in combination.
[0031]
In the woven fabric of the present invention, other fibers, especially the quality of cellulose fibers and the like, feeling, scalping for improving physical properties, mercerizing, etc. may be performed, but in order to obtain the anti-pill property of the synthetic fibers. It is a feature of the present invention that the finishing can be performed without special shaving, alkali weight reduction, acid treatment, and shaking. Similarly, the knitted fabric is finished without being subjected to an alkali treatment or an acid treatment for obtaining the anti-pill property of the synthetic fiber. Resin processing for obtaining the anti-pill property of other fibers, skin care, antibacterial deodorization processing, or the like may be performed.
[0032]
【Example】
Hereinafter, the present invention will be described with reference to examples.
Measuring method
{Circle around (1)} Hot water shrinkage of raw cotton fiber: Measured according to hot water shrinkage according to JIS L1015. The boiling water treatment time is 20 minutes, and the latently crimped fiber of the high melting point type is 130 ° C. for 20 minutes.
{Circle around (2)} The number of fluffs of spun yarn: The number of fluffs having a length of 1 mm or more per 10 m was obtained using an F-index tester manufactured by Shikishima Spinning Co., Ltd.
{Circle over (3)} Cloth washing method: Based on JIS L0217 103 method.
{Circle around (4)} Elasticity of fabric: For woven fabric and knitted fabric, the following measurement methods were used. (Fabric) JIS L1096 Elongation rate B method (constant load method: 1.47N 1 minute)
(Knitting) JIS L1018 Elongation at constant load (cut strip method)
{Circle around (5)} Anti-pilling property of dough: Based on JIS L1076 A method (ICI type tester 5 hours).
{Circle around (6)} Evaluation of fabric texture: Five panelists evaluated softness and bulkiness by judging the tactile sensation.
◎: Soft and excellent bulkiness ○: Softness and bulkiness almost good
×: Hard, no swelling and poor
(7) Comprehensive evaluation: ◎ means very good, ○ means generally good, and × means bad.
[0033]
Example 1
(Production of latently crimped polyester fiber I)
Polyester terephthalate (intrinsic viscosity 0.607, melting point 265 ° C.) as polyester (A), polyethylene terephthalate as basic skeleton as polyester (B), 4 mol% of acid component is isophthalic acid, 2 mol% is 5-sodium Using a copolyester (sulfoisophthalic acid) (intrinsic viscosity: 0.637, melting point: 248 ° C.), spinning was performed using a composite spinning nozzle at a polymer temperature of 282 ° C. and a spinning speed of 1600 m / min. Thereafter, in the stretching step, the film was stretched at a stretching temperature of 155 ° C., a stretching ratio of 2.64, and a stretching speed of 140 m / min. The resulting side-by-side latently crimped polyester fiber I (fineness: 2.0 dtex, cut length: 38 mm) having a solid round cross section had a hot water shrinkage (130 ° C., 20 minutes, free shrinkage) of 37.8%.
The resulting latently crimped polyester fiber was spun using Murata Vortex Spinner MVS manufactured by Murata Machinery Co., Ltd. with 300 sliver gelens and a 180-fold draft, with a nozzle pressure of 0.45 Mpa and a spinning speed of 400 m / min. An air-entangled spun yarn having an English cotton count of 30 was obtained. The spun yarn had a fuzz count (Y) of 225, a cross-section fiber count (X) of 98, and a Y / X of 2.3.
[0034]
A 2/1 twill fabric was obtained using the obtained spun yarn as a weft and an English-style cotton count 30th cotton yarn as a warp. After desizing and scouring the fabric, the fabric was relaxed at 120 ° C. for 20 minutes with a jet dyeing machine, dehydrated and dried, subjected to an intermediate setting at 170 ° C. for 30 seconds, and dispersed with a high-pressure jet dyeing machine to obtain 0.8% of fluorescent dye. Dyeing was carried out at 130 ° C. for 30 minutes at% omf, and after reduction washing, dehydration and drying, a finishing set at 170 ° C. for 30 seconds was performed through a cotton baking process. The fabric quality, elasticity, and texture after the intermediate set and the finish set were evaluated. Table 1 shows the evaluation results of the obtained dough. The woven fabric was a soft woven fabric having 160 fluffs, almost no fluff even in the intermediate set and the finished set, a fabric elongation of 34.2%, and a slight dry feeling.
[0035]
Comparative Example 1
Using the latently crimped polyester fiber obtained in Example 1, a ring spun yarn (English type 30th, twist coefficient 3.2) was obtained at a roving of 140 gelen, a draft of 36 times, and a spinning machine rotation speed of 9000 rpm. A woven fabric was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1 except that the obtained ring spun yarn was used as a weft, and the fabric quality, elasticity, and texture after the intermediate setting and the finishing setting were evaluated. The evaluation results are shown in Table 1. It was shown to. Although the elongation rate of the dough was 37.6%, fluff was already generated on the entire surface at the intermediate setting stage, and the dough quality was poor. It was at a level that required fluff removal by conventional savory and alkali weight reduction treatments.
[0036]
Comparative Example 2
(Production of latently crimped polyester fiber II)
Polyester terephthalate (intrinsic viscosity 0.607, melting point 265 ° C.) as polyester (A), polyethylene terephthalate as basic skeleton as polyester (B), 2.5 mol% of glycol component is diethylene glycol, 10 mol% of acid component Is based on a copolymerized polyester of isophthalic acid (intrinsic viscosity 0.646) and polyethylene terephthalate, 3.3 mol% of a glycol component is diethylene glycol, and 4.4 mol% of an acid component is 5-sodium sulfoisophthalic acid. Using a copolymerized polyester (intrinsic viscosity: 0.390) in a ratio of 50/50 (mass ratio) and a melting point of 244.5 ° C, a polymer temperature of 285 ° C and a spinning speed were obtained using a composite spinning nozzle. The fiber was spun at 1600 m / min. Thereafter, in the stretching step, the film is stretched at a stretching temperature of 155 ° C., a stretching ratio of 2.64, and a stretching speed of 140 m / min. After crimping, a cut fiber is formed, and a side-by-side latently crimped polyester fiber (fineness: 1.0 dtex, cut length: 38 mm) Got. The hot water shrinkage of the fiber (130 ° C., 20 minutes, free shrinkage) was 36.5%.
Using the resulting latently crimped polyester fiber, an air-entangled spun yarn having an English cotton count of 30 was obtained. The spun yarn had a fluff count (Y) of 599, a cross-sectional fiber count (X) of 197, and a Y / X of 3.0. Using the spun yarn, fabrics up to a finished set fabric were manufactured in the same manner as in Example 1 and evaluated in the same manner. Table 1 shows the evaluation results.
[0037]
[Table 1]
Comparative Example 1 is a case of a conventional ring spun yarn, and although the elongation rate of the woven fabric was 37.6%, fluff was already generated on the entire surface at the intermediate setting stage, and the fabric quality was poor. It was at a level that required fluff removal by conventional savory and alkali weight reduction treatments. Comparative Example 2 has a large number of fluff yarns and is not as large as Comparative Example 1. Similarly, fluff balls have already been generated in the intermediate setting step, and the quality after finishing setting is also fuzz due to fuzz, alkali weight loss or shaling. This was a level that required ball removal, and was inferior to Example 1 in quality.
[0039]
Example 2
(Production of Y-section fiber)
Polyethylene terephthalate (intrinsic viscosity: 0.633) was spun using a Y-section fiber spinning nozzle at a polymer temperature of 288 ° C. and a spinning speed of 1600 m / min. Thereafter, in the stretching step, the film was stretched at a stretching temperature of 112 ° C., a stretching ratio of 2.32, and a stretching speed of 140 m / min. The boiling water shrinkage of the obtained low-shrinkage fiber (fineness 1.3 dtex, irregularity 2.4, cut length 38 mm) of the Y-shaped cross section was 1.4%.
After card blending using the obtained low-shrinkage fiber having a Y-shaped cross section and the latently-crimped polyester fiber II, using Murata Vortex Spinner MVS manufactured by Murata Machinery Co., Ltd., the sliver gelel was 200 and the draft was 160 times. The spun yarn was spun at a nozzle pressure of 0.45 Mpa and a spinning speed of 400 m / min to obtain a bunched spun yarn of 40th English cotton count. The mixing ratio of the latently crimped polyester fiber II in the spun yarn was 20%, and the mixing ratio of the low shrinkage fiber was 80%. The spun yarn had 245 fluffs (Y), 120 cross-sectional fibers (X), and 2.20 Y / X.
Using the obtained spun yarn, a knitted fabric having a sheet-laying structure was obtained at 28 gauge and a loop length of 325 mm per 100 wells. The knitted fabric was opened, subjected to a relaxation heat shrinkage treatment at 80 ° C. for 10 minutes with a scouring agent by a liquid jet dyeing machine, and then heated to 110 ° C. and subjected to a heat shrinkage treatment for 10 minutes. Thereafter, it was dehydrated and dried, and subjected to an intermediate setting at 170 ° C. for 40 seconds with a width. Thereafter, using a high-pressure liquid jet dyeing machine, the dispersion was dyed with 0.8% omf of the fluorescent dye at 130 ° C. for 20 minutes, reduced, washed, dehydrated and dried. Table 2 shows the evaluation results of the obtained dough.
[0040]
Comparative Example 4
A ring spun yarn having the same fiber configuration as in Example 2 was obtained except that the spun yarn was changed to a ring spun yarn (the same production method as described in Comparative Example 2), and from a knitted fabric to a finished set fabric as in Example 2 Was manufactured and evaluated. Table 2 shows the evaluation results.
[0041]
Example 3
A spun yarn in the same manner as in Example 2 except that the mixing ratio of the latent crimped polyester fiber II in Example 2 was changed to 30% and the Y-shaped cross-section fiber was changed to rayon fiber (fineness: 1.7 dtex, cut length: 38 mm). To finished set fabrics were evaluated. The evaluation results are shown in Table 2.
[0042]
Example 4
(Production of latently crimped polyester fiber III)
As the polyester (A), polyethylene terephthalate (intrinsic viscosity: 0.627, melting point: 265 ° C.); as the polyester (B), a copolymerized polyester obtained by copolymerizing polyethylene terephthalate as a basic skeleton and neopentyl glycol as a glycol component at 30 mol%. (Intrinsic viscosity: 0.607, melting point: 162 ° C), and spinning was performed using a composite spinning nozzle at a polymer temperature of 282 ° C and a spinning speed of 1700 m / min. Thereafter, in the stretching step, the film was stretched at a stretching temperature of room temperature, a stretching ratio of 2.55, and a stretching speed of 150 m / min. The obtained side-by-side latently crimped polyester fiber III having a solid round cross section (fineness: 1.6 dtex, cut length: 38 mm) had a boiling water shrinkage of 53.2%.
Using the obtained latent crimped polyester fiber III and the above-mentioned Y-shaped cross-section fiber, the cotton blending method is a sliver blending method (such as that a lot of latent crimped polyester fiber III is disposed in the core and many Y-shaped cross-section fibers are disposed in the sheath portion). A bundled spun yarn, a knitted fabric, and an open cloth were obtained in the same manner as in Example 2 except that the core-sheath structure was changed and the mixing ratio of the Y-shaped cross-section fibers was changed from 80% to 70%. . Next, after relaxing at 70 ° C., a finished set fabric was obtained and evaluated in the same manner as in Example 2 except that the dyeing temperature was 100 ° C., the intermediate set was 130 ° C., and the finish set was 120 ° C. The evaluation results are shown in Table 2.
[0043]
Example 5
Except that the latently crimped polyester fiber III was changed to the latently crimped polyester fiber II and the Y-shaped cross-section fiber was changed to a normal solid round cross-section polyethylene terephthalate fiber (fineness: 2.0 dtex) in the same manner as in Example 4, Evaluation was performed by obtaining from the bound spun yarn to the finished set fabric. The evaluation results are shown in Table 2.
[0044]
Comparative Example 5
The same procedure as in Example 5 was carried out except that the number of plied yarns (Y) was 15, the number of cross-section fibers (X) was 74, and the number of Y / X was 0.2. The finished set fabric was obtained and evaluated. The evaluation results are shown in Table 2.
[0045]
Comparative Example 6
Except for using solely a low-shrinkage fiber that is a normal solid round cross-section polyethylene terephthalate fiber (fineness: 2.0 dtex), a procedure was performed in the same manner as in Example 2 to obtain and evaluate from spun yarn to finished set fabric. The evaluation results are shown in Table 2.
[0046]
Comparative Example 7
In the same manner as in Example 2 except that the fineness of the latently crimped polyester fiber II was changed to 4.4 dtex, a process from a spun yarn to a finished set fabric was obtained and evaluated. The evaluation results are shown in Table 2.
[0047]
[Table 2]
In Example 2, the number of fluff was small, the softness was smooth, the elasticity was sufficient (the elongation at constant load was 30% or more), and the bulkiness was lower than that of Comparative Example 7 which did not contain latent crimped fibers. The finished weight was increased by 20.2%, and the pilling was as good as grade 4. Comparative Example 4 using a conventional ring spun yarn having the same fiber structure as in Example 2 had a bulky and soft feel, but fluff was generated on the entire surface, the quality was poor, and the pilling was poor at the first class. .
In Example 3, the anti-pilling property is grade 4-5, the anti-pill property is good, the moderate swelling feeling is obtained, the soft feeling close to that of the ring spun yarn is finished, the elasticity and the recoverability are sufficient, and Finished to a suitable level. Examples 4 and 5 use a sliver having a core-sheath structure in which a large amount of latently crimped fibers are disposed in the core, and there is almost no fluff on the knitted fabric, which is rich in swelling, and has soft and anti-pilling properties. Grade 4 was good. In particular, Example 4, which has a strong shrinkage force, had a swelling and flexibility more than that of Example 5, and finished as a good knitted fabric with high stretchability and recovery.
[0049]
Comparative Example 5 has the same configuration as that of Example 5, but has a small number of fluffs, is too entangled, does not take advantage of the characteristics of latently crimped fibers, and has a hard wind that is not much different from conventional air-entangled spun yarns using a single fiber. The finished product had almost no stretchability. In Comparative Example 6, the pilling was good, but the ground was thin and the feel was hard, and the result was inferior to the examples. Further, in Comparative Example 7, although the number of fluff was small, fluff balls occurred frequently in the step of developing crimp of the knitted fabric, and although less than Comparative Example 4, it was inferior in quality and impractical. This is considered to be due to a structure in which latently crimpable fibers are arranged more on the surface of the spun yarn than in the examples.
[0050]
【The invention's effect】
ADVANTAGE OF THE INVENTION According to this invention, although it is a short fiber woven / knitted fabric using a conjugated spun yarn mainly composed of polyester-based short fibers, it has not only the anti-pill property but also the soft bulky property only by a simple treatment such as hot water treatment. In addition, it is possible to provide a short fiber woven or knitted fabric excellent in elasticity. Therefore, according to the present invention, a spandex bare yarn (bare yarn) knitting device, which is indispensable for obtaining elasticity and recoverability of a cloth such as bare sheeting, is unnecessary, and the conventional knitting machine has an anti-pill property and bulky. Thus, it is possible to easily produce a knitted fabric having excellent softness and elasticity recovery properties.
Claims (7)
０．４Ｙ≦Ｘ≦２．５Ｙ ・・・・・・ （１）式
Ｘ：長さ１ｍｍ以上の毛羽の１０ｍ当りの本数
Ｙ：紡績糸の断面繊維本数
紡績糸の断面繊維本数：５３１５×１．１１÷（英式綿番手×単繊維のｄｔｅｘ）An air-entangled spun yarn containing at least 10% by mass of side-by-side type latently crimped short fibers having a fineness of 0.8 to 4.0 dtex, and the number of fluffs (X) of the spun yarn and the number of cross-sectional fibers (Y) of the spun yarn A method for producing a stretchable bulky short fiber woven or knitted fabric, comprising forming a woven or knitted fabric using an air-entangled spun yarn satisfying the following formula (1), and then thermally shrinking the woven or knitted fabric.
0.4Y ≦ X ≦ 2.5Y (1) Formula X: Number of fluffs having a length of 1 mm or more per 10 m Y: Number of cross-section fibers of spun yarn Number of cross-section fibers of spun yarn: 5315 × 1 .11 ÷ (English cotton count x single fiber dtex)
Priority Applications (4)
| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| JP2002348090A JP4196261B2 (en) | 2002-11-29 | 2002-11-29 | Stretch bulky short fiber knitted fabric and method for producing the same |
| CNA038190168A CN1675421A (en) | 2002-08-07 | 2003-07-30 | Woven or knit fabric and process for producing the same |
| US10/522,833 US20050202741A1 (en) | 2002-08-07 | 2003-07-30 | Woven or knit fabric and process for producing the same |
| PCT/JP2003/009714 WO2004015182A1 (en) | 2002-08-07 | 2003-07-30 | Woven or knit fabric and process for producing the same |
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| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
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| JP2002348090A JP4196261B2 (en) | 2002-11-29 | 2002-11-29 | Stretch bulky short fiber knitted fabric and method for producing the same |
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| Publication Number | Publication Date |
|---|---|
| JP2004183113A true JP2004183113A (en) | 2004-07-02 |
| JP4196261B2 JP4196261B2 (en) | 2008-12-17 |
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Cited By (4)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| JP2007321319A (en) * | 2006-06-05 | 2007-12-13 | Toray Ind Inc | Filament-staple composite spun yarn and fabric comprising the same |
| JP2007327147A (en) * | 2006-06-06 | 2007-12-20 | Toray Ind Inc | Long and short conjugate spun yarn and cloth by using the same |
| JP2012188792A (en) * | 2011-03-14 | 2012-10-04 | Toyobo Specialties Trading Co Ltd | Spun yarn that is soft and excellent in anti-pilling property |
| WO2014132895A1 (en) * | 2013-02-28 | 2014-09-04 | 東レ株式会社 | Spun yarn that contains polymethylpentene fiber, and fiber structure made of same |
-
2002
- 2002-11-29 JP JP2002348090A patent/JP4196261B2/en not_active Expired - Fee Related
Cited By (5)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| JP2007321319A (en) * | 2006-06-05 | 2007-12-13 | Toray Ind Inc | Filament-staple composite spun yarn and fabric comprising the same |
| JP2007327147A (en) * | 2006-06-06 | 2007-12-20 | Toray Ind Inc | Long and short conjugate spun yarn and cloth by using the same |
| JP2012188792A (en) * | 2011-03-14 | 2012-10-04 | Toyobo Specialties Trading Co Ltd | Spun yarn that is soft and excellent in anti-pilling property |
| WO2014132895A1 (en) * | 2013-02-28 | 2014-09-04 | 東レ株式会社 | Spun yarn that contains polymethylpentene fiber, and fiber structure made of same |
| JPWO2014132895A1 (en) * | 2013-02-28 | 2017-02-02 | 東レ株式会社 | Spun yarn containing polymethylpentene fiber and fiber structure comprising the same |
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| Publication number | Publication date |
|---|---|
| JP4196261B2 (en) | 2008-12-17 |
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