CN1675421A - Woven or knit fabric and process for producing the same - Google Patents

Woven or knit fabric and process for producing the same Download PDF

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Publication number
CN1675421A
CN1675421A CNA038190168A CN03819016A CN1675421A CN 1675421 A CN1675421 A CN 1675421A CN A038190168 A CNA038190168 A CN A038190168A CN 03819016 A CN03819016 A CN 03819016A CN 1675421 A CN1675421 A CN 1675421A
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CN
China
Prior art keywords
fiber
fabric
spun yarn
fibre
spun
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Pending
Application number
CNA038190168A
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Chinese (zh)
Inventor
小野寺忠人
西中久雄
谷田光雄
黑田修广
石田诚治
上田隆
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Toyobo Co Ltd
Toyo Textile Co Ltd
Original Assignee
Toyo Textile Co Ltd
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Priority claimed from JP2002230389A external-priority patent/JP4143904B2/en
Priority claimed from JP2002348089A external-priority patent/JP4196260B2/en
Priority claimed from JP2002348090A external-priority patent/JP4196261B2/en
Priority claimed from JP2002353927A external-priority patent/JP4427708B2/en
Application filed by Toyo Textile Co Ltd filed Critical Toyo Textile Co Ltd
Publication of CN1675421A publication Critical patent/CN1675421A/en
Pending legal-status Critical Current

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Classifications

    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04BKNITTING
    • D04B1/00Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B1/14Other fabrics or articles characterised primarily by the use of particular thread materials
    • D04B1/16Other fabrics or articles characterised primarily by the use of particular thread materials synthetic threads
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03WEAVING
    • D03DWOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D1/00Woven fabrics designed to make specified articles
    • D03D1/0035Protective fabrics
    • D03D1/007UV radiation protecting
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03WEAVING
    • D03DWOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D03D15/20Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads
    • D03D15/283Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads synthetic polymer-based, e.g. polyamide or polyester fibres
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03WEAVING
    • D03DWOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D03D15/30Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the structure of the fibres or filaments
    • D03D15/33Ultrafine fibres, e.g. microfibres or nanofibres
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03WEAVING
    • D03DWOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D03D15/30Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the structure of the fibres or filaments
    • D03D15/37Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the structure of the fibres or filaments with specific cross-section or surface shape
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03WEAVING
    • D03DWOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D03D15/40Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the structure of the yarns or threads
    • D03D15/47Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the structure of the yarns or threads multicomponent, e.g. blended yarns or threads
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03WEAVING
    • D03DWOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D03D15/40Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the structure of the yarns or threads
    • D03D15/49Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the structure of the yarns or threads textured; curled; crimped
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03WEAVING
    • D03DWOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D03D15/50Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads
    • D03D15/567Shapes or effects upon shrinkage
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10BINDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2201/00Cellulose-based fibres, e.g. vegetable fibres
    • D10B2201/01Natural vegetable fibres
    • D10B2201/02Cotton
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10BINDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2201/00Cellulose-based fibres, e.g. vegetable fibres
    • D10B2201/20Cellulose-derived artificial fibres
    • D10B2201/22Cellulose-derived artificial fibres made from cellulose solutions
    • D10B2201/24Viscose
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10BINDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2211/00Protein-based fibres, e.g. animal fibres
    • D10B2211/01Natural animal fibres, e.g. keratin fibres
    • D10B2211/02Wool
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10BINDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2331/00Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products
    • D10B2331/02Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products polyamides
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10BINDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2331/00Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products
    • D10B2331/04Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products polyesters, e.g. polyethylene terephthalate [PET]
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10BINDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2401/00Physical properties
    • D10B2401/02Moisture-responsive characteristics
    • D10B2401/022Moisture-responsive characteristics hydrophylic
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10BINDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2401/00Physical properties
    • D10B2401/06Load-responsive characteristics
    • D10B2401/062Load-responsive characteristics stiff, shape retention
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10BINDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2401/00Physical properties
    • D10B2401/06Load-responsive characteristics
    • D10B2401/063Load-responsive characteristics high strength
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10BINDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2401/00Physical properties
    • D10B2401/13Physical properties anti-allergenic or anti-bacterial
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10BINDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2401/00Physical properties
    • D10B2401/14Dyeability
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10BINDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2401/00Physical properties
    • D10B2401/22Physical properties protective against sunlight or UV radiation
    • YGENERAL TAGGING OF NEW TECHNOLOGICAL DEVELOPMENTS; GENERAL TAGGING OF CROSS-SECTIONAL TECHNOLOGIES SPANNING OVER SEVERAL SECTIONS OF THE IPC; TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC CROSS-REFERENCE ART COLLECTIONS [XRACs] AND DIGESTS
    • Y10TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC
    • Y10TTECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER US CLASSIFICATION
    • Y10T442/00Fabric [woven, knitted, or nonwoven textile or cloth, etc.]
    • Y10T442/30Woven fabric [i.e., woven strand or strip material]
    • Y10T442/3065Including strand which is of specific structural definition
    • YGENERAL TAGGING OF NEW TECHNOLOGICAL DEVELOPMENTS; GENERAL TAGGING OF CROSS-SECTIONAL TECHNOLOGIES SPANNING OVER SEVERAL SECTIONS OF THE IPC; TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC CROSS-REFERENCE ART COLLECTIONS [XRACs] AND DIGESTS
    • Y10TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC
    • Y10TTECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER US CLASSIFICATION
    • Y10T442/00Fabric [woven, knitted, or nonwoven textile or cloth, etc.]
    • Y10T442/30Woven fabric [i.e., woven strand or strip material]
    • Y10T442/3065Including strand which is of specific structural definition
    • Y10T442/3089Cross-sectional configuration of strand material is specified
    • Y10T442/3106Hollow strand material
    • YGENERAL TAGGING OF NEW TECHNOLOGICAL DEVELOPMENTS; GENERAL TAGGING OF CROSS-SECTIONAL TECHNOLOGIES SPANNING OVER SEVERAL SECTIONS OF THE IPC; TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC CROSS-REFERENCE ART COLLECTIONS [XRACs] AND DIGESTS
    • Y10TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC
    • Y10TTECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER US CLASSIFICATION
    • Y10T442/00Fabric [woven, knitted, or nonwoven textile or cloth, etc.]
    • Y10T442/30Woven fabric [i.e., woven strand or strip material]
    • Y10T442/3146Strand material is composed of two or more polymeric materials in physically distinct relationship [e.g., sheath-core, side-by-side, islands-in-sea, fibrils-in-matrix, etc.] or composed of physical blend of chemically different polymeric materials or a physical blend of a polymeric material and a filler material
    • YGENERAL TAGGING OF NEW TECHNOLOGICAL DEVELOPMENTS; GENERAL TAGGING OF CROSS-SECTIONAL TECHNOLOGIES SPANNING OVER SEVERAL SECTIONS OF THE IPC; TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC CROSS-REFERENCE ART COLLECTIONS [XRACs] AND DIGESTS
    • Y10TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC
    • Y10TTECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER US CLASSIFICATION
    • Y10T442/00Fabric [woven, knitted, or nonwoven textile or cloth, etc.]
    • Y10T442/30Woven fabric [i.e., woven strand or strip material]
    • Y10T442/3976Including strand which is stated to have specific attributes [e.g., heat or fire resistance, chemical or solvent resistance, high absorption for aqueous composition, water solubility, heat shrinkability, etc.]

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
  • Nanotechnology (AREA)
  • Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Toxicology (AREA)
  • Yarns And Mechanical Finishing Of Yarns Or Ropes (AREA)
  • Woven Fabrics (AREA)

Abstract

A woven or knit fabric comprising air-jet interlacing spun yarns comprising polyester fibers of low titanium oxide content; a woven or knit fabric comprising air-jet interlacing spun yarns comprising polyester staple fibers obtained by graft polymerization of a hydrophilic compound; a woven or knit fabric comprising air-jet interlacing spun yarns comprising side by side crimped staple fibers; a woven or knit fabric comprising air-jet interlacing spun yarns comprising low-shrinkage staple fibers and copolymerized polyester staple fibers; and a process for producing these. A woven or knit fabric of polyester staple fibers that is bulky, excelling in moisture retention, lightweightness, water absorptivity, quick dryability, etc. and exhibits excellent anti-pilling properties can be obtained.

Description

Fabric and manufacture method thereof
Technical field
The present invention relates to a kind of fabric (woven or knit fabric) and manufacture method thereof, more specifically, relate to a kind of fabric and manufacture method thereof that contains air interlacing spun yarn (air-jet interlacing spun yarns).
The present invention is made of 4 inventions of the 1st~the 4th.
The 1st invention of the present invention relate to a kind of energy enough with pass by different mechanism and show fabric ultraviolet shielding effect and barrier property and anti-pilling, that constitute by the air interlacing spun yarn that contains polyester staple fiber.Even and then relate to a kind of special modified poly ester that do not use, also can show anti-pilling, and the good fabric that contains polyester staple fiber of water-absorbing fast-drying.
The 2nd invention relate to a kind of have concurrently hygroscopicity and anti-pilling, be the fabric that the air interlacing spun yarn of staple fibre constitutes by containing polyester, and then relate to a kind of technology that can improve poor properties as the shortcoming of glycerol polymerization processing fiber in the past, the size instability when moistening, wrinkling and low drying property, smooth sense etc.
The 3rd invention relates to a kind of good spun fabric of bulkiness that is made of the air interlacing spun yarn that contains the parallel type crimped staple, it is good to relate to a kind of bulk and heat insulating ability, light weight, water-absorbing fast-drying etc., has the spun fabric and the manufacture method thereof of good anti-pilling simultaneously.
The 4th invention relates to a kind of good spun fabric of bulkiness that is made of the air interlacing spun yarn that contains low-shrinkage short fiber and copolyester staple fibre, it is good to relate to a kind of bulk and heat insulating ability, light weight, water-absorbing fast-drying etc., and the polyester that has good anti-pilling simultaneously is spun fabric and manufacture method thereof.
Background technology
In the past as the method for the dacron fabric that obtains to have barrier property and ultraviolet shielding effect, can enumerate use fibrous inside rubbed into the polyester fiber of titanium oxide method, make the grey cloth surface contain the method etc. of the method for ultra-violet absorber, braiding to high-density.Particularly fibrous inside contains the so-called full-dull fiber of more titanium oxide, as described in No. the 2888504th, patent, because barrier property and ultraviolet shielding effect are better, thereby is widely used in the dress material etc.But the general full dull yarn of titanium oxide content more than 3.0 quality % can make sharp wears such as thread-carrier, Si Dao and reed, bring out fluffing and broken end, the operation trafficability characteristic is bad, and also restricted aspect colour rendering, aspect available bright-colored, can obviously be restricted with common polyester fiber in embodiment.In order to prevent above-mentioned shortcoming, the fiber that the someone has proposed to make to contain more titanium oxide is fibre core, is the method for the composite fibre of crust with the general fibre, but the cost height of this method, and the quality instability.Method by ultra-violet absorber is given in back processing can make the feel hardening, and raise the cost.
On the other hand, as the polyester fiber of paying attention to water-absorbing fast-drying, proposed in the past the round cross section that constitutes by superfine fibre and the long fiber of odd-shaped cross sections such as L type, W type, Y type.Above-mentioned fiber is because its fiber surface area increases, and interfibrous space reduces, and capillary developing effect is improved, thereby has good water-absorbing fast-drying, thereby needing to be used for the sweat shirt purposes of light weight, reflecting feel more.As the lightweight heat-preserving material, generally use doughnut in the polyester staple fiber, but because a little less than the diffuse reflection of fiber surface, thereby can't expect ultraviolet radiation absorption effect and the luminous ray transmitance that the present invention shows at present.
As the anti-pilling polyester fiber, mainly using organic sulfonic acid is copolymerization of polyester fiber and the modified polyester fiber (as: spy opens flat 7-173718 communique and the flat 8-13274 communique of Te Kai) that contains phosphorus etc.With regard to above-mentioned fiber, in resin or spinning, stretching process, reduce its fibre strength, and then under dyeing manufacturing procedure condition, further promote the decline of fibre strength (knot strength), thereby the filoplume on grey cloth surface is come off easily, be used for blended ratio textiles of wool and artificial silk etc. more than except fabric., aforesaid modified polyester fiber, particularly organic sulfonic acid are in the copolymerization of polyester fiber, under the fibre morphology of general round cross section, and also easy precipitating metal salt in spinning, spinning properties is bad.The spinning of profiled fibre is just difficult more.And since fibre strength a little less than, thereby have the shortcoming of spinnability difference.Want to improve spinnability and just must improve fibre strength, and, in the dyeing manufacturing procedure, need to try every possible means to reduce fibre strength if will obtain anti-pilling.And then add man-hour in order to keep certain quality in dyeing, and its management processing is also more loaded down with trivial details.
In the dyeing processing of above-mentioned modified polyester fiber, when treatment fluid is the strong acidic liquid of pH3~4, the variation of liquid pH in being difficult to handle, the difference between batching are controlled at minimum, if control insufficient, grey cloth just is easy to generate embrittlement and variable color, cause that practical grey cloth intensity decreases and quality descend, the obvious damage goods are worth.In addition, just need high temperature in order to obtain anti-pilling and for a long time for the grey cloth of the fibre structure handled of dyeing, be disadvantageous on cost.In addition, by the grey cloth that above-mentioned modified polyester fiber constitutes, owing in the dyeing post-process treatment, the intensity decreases of silk or grey cloth is remarkable, thereby the processing of can not dyeing again, and is extremely uneconomical.
In recent years, improve the research of anti-pilling by spinning method and carrying out always, the method for utilizing wraping spinning is wherein arranged.In this method, because basic structure is to utilize complexing between the fiber of high-speed air fluid, fiber end is limited in fibrous inside, thereby filoplume is few, anti-pilling is improved, but this method compare with ring spindle yarn, exist the shortcoming of feel hardening on its structure.Therefore in the polyester staple fibers dimensional fabric, need and a kind ofly do not use the full-dull staple fibre and have anti-pilling and ultraviolet-shielding type, barrier property, colour rendering, water-absorbing fast-drying, refrigerant sense and soft fabric simultaneously.
The purpose of the 1st invention of the present invention is to provide a kind of fabric with low cost, this fabric does not use full-dull fiber (general titanium oxide content is more than 3.0 weight %) and ultra-violet absorber, even the also rare penetrating sense of grey cloth of thin quality, and rate of ultraviolet shield height, water-absorbing fast-drying and colour rendering are good, even and do not use special modified polyester fiber also to be rich in anti-pilling and soft hand feeling.
As polyester fiber being given hygroscopic method, we are known to have glycerol polymerization to process.For example: the spy opens the glycerol polymerization processing of putting down in writing in the 2000-45181 communique, but for practicability, it also exists the shortcoming that solve.Be that glycerol polymerization processed polyesters fiber has the rerum natura of dyeing low and wrinkling, the shortcomings such as size changing rate big, feel stick-slip of intensity when relatively poor, particularly moistening.In order to overcome above-mentioned shortcoming, people have 2 composition spinning of hygroscopic composition to carry out a lot of researchs to having cooperated in fiber core, but aspects such as the unstability of the fibre morphology that the swelling of this spinning because of when washing or suction the time produces and the deterioration of dyeing quality, agent of low hygroscopicity, spinning cost also have problems, therefore almost also not as dress material and the product of practicability.
The main purpose of the 2nd invention of the present invention provides the fabric of the fabric that a kind of polyester staple fibers maintains, underwear and coat use and the house decorative material that is suitable for towel, shield, mat, coverlet etc., auxiliary material, bedding etc.; Also provide not use to have cooperated the 2 composition spinning fibres that hygroscopic composition is arranged and used the fiber that has carried out glycerol polymerization processing with polyester list composition spinning fibre in fiber core, and the polyester staple fibers dimensional fabric that adopts the acquisition of air interlacing spinning technique to have the softness of hygroscopicity and anti-pilling two specific characters.And then provide a kind of improved shortcomings such as poor properties that the glycerol polymerization processing fiber had, the dimensional instability when moistening, low drying property, smooth sense, have a polyester staple fibers dimensional fabric of hygroscopicity and anti-pilling simultaneously.
In addition, used parallel type curl the tendentiousness fiber the retractility spun yarn widely known to (for example: the spy opens flat 6-287809 communique).In order to make this material embody crimpiness, must carry out breaking with liquid-flow dyeing machine etc. and handle, at this moment the grey cloth surface can produce a lot of filoplume balls.Therefore must have by the operation of singing and the filoplume ball is removed in the processing of alkali decrement.For above-mentioned reasons, the retractility spun yarn can have alkali-proof material to carry out blending with silk, wool, acrylic fibre, Promix fiber, artificial silk, Spandex fiber etc. or interweaves.
The purpose of the 3rd invention of the present invention is, use contains the air interlacing spun yarn of the curling tendentiousness fiber of parallel type, a kind of anti-pilling is provided, the spun fabric that retractility and bulkiness are good, obtaining polyester as described below is spun fabric, promptly do not need to singe especially for obtaining anti-pilling, alkali decrement processing etc., in spinning, spinning and then dyeing add rare manufacturing fault in man-hour, though be the air interlacing spun yarn, but only by the simple processing of hot water treatment etc., still can have the soft bulkiness and the good polyester of flexible bulkiness of anti-pilling concurrently is spun fabric.
The purpose of the 4th invention of the present invention is, use has been used in combination the air interlacing spun yarn of the staple fibre with different contractive effect, provide anti-pilling and bulkiness good spun fabric, obtaining polyester as described below is spun fabric, promptly, do not need to use in the past for obtaining the modified polyester fiber that anti-pilling uses, in spinning, spinning and then dyeing add rare manufacturing fault in man-hour, though be the air interlacing spun yarn, but only by the simple processing of hot water treatment etc., still can have the soft bulkiness and the good polyester of bulkiness of anti-pilling concurrently is spun fabric.
Summary of the invention
The inventor etc. further investigate for solving the problems of the technologies described above, and have finished the present invention finally.Be of the present invention being constructed as follows:
The 1st invention is:
1. fabric that contains polyester fiber, it is characterized in that, this fabric constitutes by containing the air interlacing spun yarn that titanium oxide content is lower than the polyester fiber of 1.0 quality %, and the anti-pilling in the JIS L 1076A of the Japanese Industrial Standards method is more than 3 grades, rate of ultraviolet shield is more than 84%, and visible light transmissivity is below 40%.
2. above-mentioned the 1st the described manufacture method that contains the fabric of polyester fiber, it is characterized in that, this fabric uses the formation silk of air interlacing spun yarn as fabric, described air interlacing spun yarn contains titanium oxide content and is lower than 1.0 quality %, and the jut that is present in more than 3 on the fibre circumference is arranged continuously along the fibre length direction, the degree of profile of fibre section (circumscribed circle is to the ratio of inscribed circle) is that high degree of profile polyester fiber more than 1.8 or hollow rate are the hollow polyester fibre more than 8%, and length was to be lower than 350 more than 30 at the filoplume number more than the 1mm during every 10m yarn of this spun yarn was long, and the filoplume number of length more than 3mm is lower than 15.
The 2nd invention is:
3. a dacron fabric is characterized in that, this fabric constitutes by containing the air interlacing spun yarn that useful hydrophilic compounds carried out the polyester staple fiber of glycerol polymerization processing, and the standard aqueous rate is more than 1.5%, and anti-pilling is more than 3 grades.
4. as above-mentioned the 3rd described dacron fabric, it is characterized in that according to the size changing rate that JIS L 1018 F-1 methods are measured, knitted fabric is-8%~0%, textiles is in ± 3%.
5. the manufacture method of the above-mentioned the 3rd or the 4th described dacron fabric, it is characterized in that, use following spun yarn to be made into fabric in this method, this spun yarn is to contain the air interlacing spun yarn that useful hydrophilic compounds has carried out the polyester staple fiber of glycerol polymerization processing, and during the every 10m yarn of this spun yarn is long, length is lower than 3mm more than 1mm filoplume number is 30~350, and the filoplume number of length more than 3mm is lower than 15.
6. the manufacture method of each described dacron fabric is characterized in that in above-mentioned the 3rd~5th, uses the jet mixed filament of air interlacing polyester spun yarn or air interlacing spun yarn and other multifilament to be made into fabric.
7. the manufacture method of each described dacron fabric as in above-mentioned the 3rd~6th, it is characterized in that, the fiber number of polyester staple fiber is at least more than the 1.3dtex, and be present in 3 above juts on the circumference of fibre section along fibre length direction continued presence, its degree of profile is more than 1.8.
The 3rd invention is:
8. a flexible bulkiness spun fabric is characterized in that, this fabric is that the air interlacing spun yarn of the parallel type crimped staple of 1.0~6.0dtex constitutes by the fiber number that contains at least 10 quality %, and anti-pilling is more than 3 grades.
9. as above-mentioned the 8th described flexible bulkiness spun fabric, it is characterized in that the boiling water shrinkage (according to JIS L 1015) that the air interlacing spun yarn contains at least 10 quality % is the low-shrinkage short fiber below 4%.
10. as the above-mentioned the 8th or the 9th described flexible bulkiness spun fabric, it is characterized in that, crimped staple or/and low-shrinkage short fiber be, hollow rate be more than 5% hollow section or the fibre section periphery on the degree of profile of an above jut is arranged is that the polyester of the odd-shaped cross section more than 1.8 is a staple fibre.
11. the manufacture method of a flexible bulkiness spun fabric, it is characterized in that, use that to contain 10 quality % fiber numbers at least be that the air interlacing spun yarn that the parallel type of 0.8~4.0dtex the relation between the cross-section fibers radical (Y) of the filoplume number (X) of tendentiousness staple fibre and this spun yarn and this spun yarn of curling satisfies following (1) formula is made fabric, make this fabric carry out thermal contraction then.
0.4Y≤X≤2.5Y (1) formula
X: the radical of the filoplume among every 10m more than the length 1mm
Y: the cross-section fibers radical of spun yarn
The cross-section fibers radical of spun yarn: the manufacture method of 5315 * 1.11/ (English cotton number * filamentary dtex) 12. as above-mentioned the 11st described flexible bulkiness spun fabric, it is characterized in that the boiling water shrinkage (according to JIS L 1015) of the tendentiousness staple fibre that curls is more than 20%.
13. as the manufacture method of above-mentioned the 12nd described flexible bulkiness spun fabric, it is characterized in that, it is low-shrinkage short fiber 90~10 quality % below 4% that the air interlacing spun yarn contains boiling water shrinkage (according to JIS L 1015), and boiling water shrinkage (according to JIS L 1015) is curling tendentiousness staple fibre 10~90 quality % more than 20%.
14. as the manufacture method of each described flexible bulkiness spun fabric in above-mentioned the 11st~13rd, it is characterized in that, curl the tendentiousness staple fibre or/and low-shrinkage short fiber is a hollow rate be more than 8% hollow section or the fibre section periphery on the degree of profile of an above jut is arranged is that the polyester of the odd-shaped cross section more than 1.8 is a staple fibre.
The 4th invention is:
15. bulkiness spun fabric, it is characterized in that, this fabric is that the air interlacing spun yarn of low-shrinkage short fiber below 4% and copolyester staple fibre constitutes by containing boiling water shrinkage (according to JIS L 1015), and be to contain the fabric that this air interlacing spun yarn of copolyester staple fibre 10~60 quality % forms through thermal contraction, anti-pilling is more than 3 grades.
16. as above-mentioned the 15th described bulkiness spun fabric, it is characterized in that, the copolyester staple fibre is, hollow rate be have on hollow section more than 8% or the fibre section periphery degree of profile of an above jut be more than 1.8 odd-shaped cross section and boiling water shrinkage (according to JIS L 1015) be the high shrinkage short fiber more than 20%.
17., it is characterized in that low-shrinkage short fiber is the polyester staple fiber that the fibre section is shaped as hollow or the abnormity of degree of profile more than 1.8 as the above-mentioned the 15th or the 16th described bulkiness spun fabric.
18. as above-mentioned the 15th~17th in each described bulkiness spun fabric, it is characterized in that the 3rd composition of copolyester staple fibre is a M-phthalic acid.
19. the manufacture method of a bulkiness spun fabric, it is characterized in that, use following air interlacing spun yarn to make fabric, make this fabric carry out thermal contraction then, wherein this air interlacing spun yarn is that to contain boiling water shrinkage (according to JIS L 1015) be that low-shrinkage short fiber 90~40 quality %, boiling water shrinkage (according to JIS L 1015) below 4% is the air interlacing spun yarn of high shrinkage short fiber 10~60 quality % more than 20%, and the relation between the cross-section fibers radical (A) of the filoplume number (K) of this spun yarn and this spun yarn satisfies following (1) formula.
0.4≤K≤3A (1) formula
K: length is the radical of the above filoplume of 1mm among every 10m
A: the cross-section fibers radical of spun yarn
The cross-section fibers radical of spun yarn: the manufacture method of 5315 * 1.11/ (English cotton number * filamentary dtex) 20. as above-mentioned the 19th described bulkiness spun fabric, it is characterized in that, high shrinkage short fiber is, has hollow rate and be the degree of profile that more than one jut is arranged on hollow section more than 8% or the fibre section periphery and be the copolyester staple fibre that odd-shaped cross section more than 1.8 and fiber number are 1.0~4.0dtex.
21. the manufacture method as the above-mentioned the 19th or the 20th described bulkiness spun fabric is characterized in that, high shrinkage short fiber is that the maximum thermal stress under 60~160 ℃ is the above copolyester staple fibre of 0.08cN/dtex.
The specific embodiment
Below specify the present invention.
The fabric that contains polyester fiber among the present invention is meant as constituting knitted fabric, the textiles that silk has used the air interlacing spun yarn at least.
At first, the 1st invention of the present invention is described in detail in detail.
The content of the titanium oxide that the polyester fiber that uses in the 1st invention is contained is lower than 1.0 quality %.When described polyester fiber is to be present in 3 above juts on the fibre circumference along fibre length direction continued presence, and degree of profile is when being high degree of profile polyester fiber more than 1.8, below the preferred 0.6 quality %, more preferably below the 0.5 quality %.If surpass 1.0 quality %, in the time of the spinnability variation, extinction effect plays very strong effect, thereby the whiteness variation, might lose colour rendering.Feature of the present invention is just can obtain the ultraviolet-shielding type and the barrier property of approximate full-dull fiber with a spot of titanium oxide content, thereby not need to contain unnecessary amount.
Under the situation of doughnut, the surface reflectivity of light is poorer than above-mentioned high degree of profile fiber, and the more slightly better effects if of titanium oxide content are preferably about above, the 0.8 quality % of 0.4 quality %.When intrastitial hollow shape number when being a plurality of, because the reflection of light rate increases, thereby titanium oxide content can be less than 1 situation, and colour rendering is improved.
Can be that main body is used with the titanium oxide, the radiological predication fallout plot powder of the trace that can also mix employed in the past kaolin, zirconium carbide, various pigment, tourmaline as required, obtains from rare ore and deep layer ocean water etc., antibacterial deodorant, bacteriostatic agent etc.
The employed fibre section of the 1st invention is that the fiber form of high degree of profile must be: the jut that is present on the fibre circumference has more than 3, its degree of profile (ratio of circumscribed circle and inscribed circle) is more than 1.8, and this jut exists continuously along the fibre length direction.The circular section that the fiber surface reflectivity is lower, flat cross section and degree of profile are lower than 1.8 triangular cross-sectional configuration etc. not within the scope of the present invention, and must be big and high Y type, cross, the star-like cross-section fibers of surface diffuse reflectance rate of difference of height of degree of profile jut more than 1.8, fiber surface and ditch portion.Its degree of profile is preferred more than 2.0, be lower than 3.5, more preferably below 3.0.If more than 3.5, fibre strength can descend.Aforesaid high degree of profile fiber has bulkiness usually, the buffering effect of soft feel in the time of giving grey cloth and push.Therefore softization to air interlacing spun yarn of the present invention can play effective function.
The hollow rate of the doughnut that uses in the 1st invention is preferred more than 8%, below 45%.If below 7%, then light reflectivity is poor, and 46% when above, the form retentivity is bad, thereby not ideal.15%~30% scope preferably.The hollow sectional shape of fiber can be circle, triangle, flat, four jiaos etc.Hollow number in the filament can be one or more in addition, can be the doughnut that forms in when spinning, and also can be that special component is dissolved in cotton, silk or the fabric removes the doughnut that the back forms.
The high degree of profile fiber in the air interlacing spun yarn and the content of doughnut are preferred 30%, more preferably more than 50%.They can use separately, also can use with.In addition can also be fiber blended in the scope that does not influence performance with other, for example: cellulose fibre (comprising the moisture absorption heating fiber), polyester and the acrylonitrile of cotton and artificial silk, copper ammonia fibre, Pori's nosik, refined cellulose (テ ソ セ Le etc.) etc., acrylate, modified acrylic fibre etc. with deodorization, bacteriostasis antibiosis deodorization performance.
In addition, the feature of the 1st invention is, can obtain anti-pilling with homopolymers polyester such as polyethylene terephthalate, in order to obtain chromatic colour and heterochromatic Color, also can use with to interweave, to hand over forms such as volume, blending with this polyester fiber with as cation dyeable polyester type polyester fiber of the copolymer that contains organic sulfonic acid metal base composition etc.High degree of profile fiber among the present invention or the content of doughnut in fabric are preferred 20%, more preferably more than 40.
The fiber number of the polyester fiber in the 1st invention is considered from complexing, feel, number aspect, below the preferred 3.5dtex, more preferably below the 2.5dtex.If more than 3.6dtex, the formation radical of spun yarn reduces, and rigidity is stronger, thereby the complexing variation, causes hard feel and low-intensityization, is difficult to obtain the ramuscule number.Staple fibre is compared with long fiber, more may have the anti-translucidus that brings because of the curling bulkiness that is produced, and then by fiber being made high degree of profile and the hollow sectional shape more than 1.8, the rigidity of fiber strengthens, and has the good characteristic of bulkiness as spun yarn.Its result, the excessive slurry of the fiber that is produced by the power of heat and physics in the back operation is less, be lower than 1.8 fiber with circular section and flat cross section, degree of profile and compare, have good bulk fibre morphology retentivity, for preventing that ultraviolet ray and visible light transmissive from also playing favourable effect.
The intensity of the caused rigidity of cross sectional shape of polyester fiber from the 1st invention, even the fiber number with 1.1~1.5dtex also can obtain the same rigidity (Ha リ, body bone) fully with circular cross-section fiber 2.0dtex, therefore compare with silk in the past, in same number, can increase the formation radical of spun yarn, its result, the effect of the ultraviolet reflection of silk intensity, fiber and prevention visible light transmissive can be improved.In addition, consider, weaken the complexing between filoplume, the effect of raising anti-pilling in addition from the intensity aspect of its rigidity.
In the polyester staple fiber of the 1st invention, suitable crispation number is 8~20/25mm, and the diffuse reflection on many more bulkinesses of crispation number or grey cloth surface is strong more, preferred 10/more than the 25mm.Fibre cutting length from 32mm to square-cut not can, can suitably select according to purpose.If generally filoplume number or the filoplume from spun yarn twines degree, feel, the consideration of silk quality aspect, and be preferably not too long, be advisable with 32mm~51mm.
When above-mentioned polyester staple fiber is spinned, do not adopt the ring spinning method, yarn and the high velocity air of making open-end spinning, wraping spinning etc. is entwined.Aforesaid way is different with ring spindle yarn, on the silk structure, has the effect that suppresses the silk filoplume, but this structure can not be avoided the feel hardening, therefore among the present invention, preferably spinning conditions is set at the condition of the feel that can not damage spun yarn, bulkiness, anti-pilling, avoid make that the degree of entwining increases, low speed spinning under the hyperbar of feel hardening etc.
In the 1st invention, is to be lower than 350 more than 30 by length in the preferably every 10m yarn length of the filoplume number of spun spun yarn at the filoplume number more than the 1mm, and the filoplume number of length more than 3mm is lower than 15, and each filoplume number satisfy simultaneously be lower than 300, below 10.As described herein, by carrying out specific to fibre section shape and fiber number, make spun yarn with high velocity air then, can obtain the few spun yarn of filoplume number, if the filoplume number is respectively more than 350,15 when above, particularly in bulk and loose tissue such as interlock and pile stitch, can not obtain sufficient anti-pilling, thus not ideal.In addition, when the above filoplume number of 1mm is lower than 30, become the thinner spun yarn of height degree of entwining and yarn diameter,, can become the grey cloth of skilled hand's sense of bulkiness difference although anti-pilling increases, thus not ideal.Its result, as the rate of ultraviolet shield decline of the object of the invention, visible light transmissivity increases, thereby not ideal.
In the fabric of the 1st invention, by using above-mentioned polyester spun yarn at least, the visible light transmissivity that can obtain 380~780nm is below 40%, and 280~400nm wavelength rate of ultraviolet shield is more than 84%, and the anti-pilling in JIS L 1076 methods is the fabric that contains polyester fiber more than 3 grades.In these cases, can also and other fibers carry out blending, mix fine, hand over and twist with the fingers, interweave, hand over volume, make the structure of using more above-mentioned polyester fiber in grey cloth top layer part, also can use above-mentioned fiber separately.
The coloration of textile materials processing of the 1st invention, identical with other polyester fiber, in the concise laggard dyeing processing that works normal.Common polyester fiber adopts 120~130 ℃ high pressure dyeing, if cation dyeable polyester then adopts from 98~120 ℃ normal pressure to high pressure and dyes.Among the present invention, need not and just can finish with ultra-violet absorber, but can and with the ultra-violet absorber of the amount that is less than normal conditions.Textiles can be singed in the operation before dyeing or after the dyeing or the cropping processing with identical usually, also can carry out light alkali treatment after singing in addition, dyes then and improves grey cloth quality, anti-pilling, feel.
Below to the 2nd detailed description of the invention of the present invention.
In the 2nd invention of the present invention, the hygroscopicity of the anti-pilling of performance polyester staple fibers dimensional fabric and glycerol polymerization processing (following be called for short sometimes glycerol polymerization) polyester fiber is improved shortcomings such as the intensity difference of glycerol polymerization fiber, the intensity difference when moistening especially and poor dimensional stability, wrinkling, smooth sense.In addition, by carrying out blending, mix fibre, smooth sense and size changing rate when improvement is moistening under not damaging hygroscopic situation with untreated polyester raw cotton or long filament.
The employed polyester staple fiber of the 2nd invention there is not particular determination, except homopolymers polyester such as main use poly terephthalic acid, can also use the compound copolyester that contains organic sulfonic acid alkali that is used to obtain heterochromatosis and low temperature dyeing, and the co-polymerization modified polyesters such as the 3rd composition copolyester that are used to obtain the M-phthalic acid, neopentyl glycol etc. of highly shrinkable.Wherein can also contain the titanium oxide of 0.3 quality %~5.0 quality %, and then can also rub with the hands into kaolin, zirconium carbide, various pigment, bamboo and be equipped with micropowder end, tourmaline (tourmaline), antibacterial deodorant, bacteriostatic agent, mould inhibitor etc. such as long carbon.
In the 2nd invention, the intensity decreases of utilizing glycerol polymerization processing to be produced can make polyester fiber show anti-pilling, more than the preferred 3.0cN/dtex of polyester fiber intensity before the glycerol polymerization processing, more preferably more than the 4.0cN/dtex.Among the present invention, the glycerol polymerization degree that the intensity of spun yarn can be by the glycerol polymerization fiber and and the blending of the fiber of non-glycerol polymerization, mix fine ratio and improve, thereby not necessarily need h, this is a feature of the present invention.Therefore, except round cross section, can use cross sectional shape is that sharp-pointed triangular form, Y type, cross, star-like or rectangle type, platypelloid type, a part have inclined to one side flat pattern of jut etc., and can use the high degree of profile polyester that wherein also further has hollow bulb.Particularly in the present invention, use fiber number as more than the 1.3dtex, and be present in 3 above juts on the circumference of fibre section along fibre length direction continued presence, its degree of profile (major diameter is to the ratio of minor axis) is effective especially when being the polyester fiber more than 1.8.This be because above-mentioned fiber than the easier acquisition bulkiness of circular cross-section fiber, easier acquisition buffering effect and the grey cloth feel of the softness that produces.The preferred 2.0dtex of degree of profile is above, be lower than 3.2, if be lower than 1.8 and be higher than 3.2, even then fiber number overstriking rigidity also can die down, is not suitable for the present invention.
Its surface area of fiber of cross sectional shape with above-mentioned degree of profile is greater than circular cross-section fiber, and water-absorbing fast-drying is good.In addition, the fabric that is made of it in the textural water-retaining property that has still less, thereby has better drying property than the fabric that is obtained by the fine denier spun yarn.Under the situation of knitted fabric, the fine denier spun yarn is soft, the goods easy deformation, and can obtain certain rigidity according to the present invention, can keep goods profile attractive in appearance.
The fiber number of polyester fiber can be selected the heavy denier from the fine denier of 0.5dtex to 5.0dtex as required, can consider to determine after the recruitment in fiber footpath according to percent grafting.When fiber number was lower than 0.5dtex, the liquid trafficability characteristic during glycerol polymerization was poor, is difficult to obtain uniform percent grafting, and when the grafting polymer fiber was spinned, fibre strength descends, and caused wind is cotton to become many easily.In addition,, can only obtain the spun yarn of thick number if surpass 5.0dtex, and the feel hardening, thereby not ideal.Consider the scope of the preferred 1.0dtex~3.0dtex of fiber number after the glycerol polymerization from feel and operation trafficability characteristic aspect.
In the 2nd invention, glycerol polymerization is in the hydrophilic compounds of polyester fiber, be meant hydrophily base ethene base system monomer or just can easily show hydrophilic ethene base system monomer etc. by simple process such as hydrolysis, neutralisation treatment, and be to have the polymerism vinyl in the molecular structure, and has the monomer of the hydrophilic group of the acidic groups of carboxylic acid, sulfonic acid etc. and/or its salt, hydroxyl, ester group, amide groups etc.
Concrete as: the methacrylate of the acrylic acid salt monomer of acrylic acid, sodium acrylate, acrylic acid aluminium, calcium acrylate, potassium acrylate, zinc acrylate resin, acrylic acid magnesium etc., acrylamide, 2-acrylamide-2-methyl propane sulfonic acid, methacrylic acid, allyl alcohol, sodium allylsulfonate, sodium vinyl sulfonate, sodium methallyl sulfonate, Sodium styrene sulfonate, polyformaldehyde etc.They can a kind use separately, also can more than 2 kinds and use.
Glycerol polymerization processing can be used above-mentioned monomer, utilizes known method to carry out by cotton and silk to polyester fiber.Promptly can adopt and give the catalyst that contains hydrophilic monomer and peroxide etc. or the water system working fluid of sweller, or the method for in the water system working fluid, heat-treating after the dipping, after neutralization is cleaned, it is the alkali metal salinization processing etc. of representative that acidic groups is carried out with sodium, improves hygroscopicity, water imbibition.
In the glycerol polymerization processing in the 2nd invention, the preferred 10 quality % of the monomer concentration in the working fluid~40 quality %, preferably making aggregate rate is that 2 quality % are above to about the 30 quality %.If be lower than 2 quality %, be difficult to obtain hydroscopicity, although and when 30 quality % are above, can obtain high hydroscopicity, but fibre strength descends, water retention rate uprises, wrinkling, change in size when moistening become big, and drying time is elongated, can lose the original non-ironing (W﹠amp that has of polyester; W) property, thus not ideal.
Treatment conditions in the 2nd invention are preferably the moisture rate after the alkali metal salinization (20 ℃ 65%RH) are controlled at 1.5~15% scope.
Polyester fiber after the glycerol polymerization processing can carry out blending with the polyester fiber of not glycerol polymerization, mix fibre, the standard aqueous rate that must have as spun yarn is getting final product more than 1.5%, can adjust graft polymerization yield and blending ratio thereof by the cotton blending ratio that is untreated, the setting that comes as required to suit gets final product.For example make size changing rate control if the glycerol polymerization fiber will only be used within the scope of the invention, as long as moisture rate is set at below 5%.In addition, when will improving size changing rate and smooth feel simultaneously, can make and contain the non-glycerol polymerization polyester staple fiber that moisture rate is high glycerol polymerization fiber more than 7% and the contour degree of profile fiber of especially Y type that is lower than 80 quality % etc. or blending, the combined yarn of long filament.
The upper limit of standard aqueous rate of the fabric in the 2nd invention is preferably 7%, and more preferably 6%.If the standard aqueous rate surpasses 7%, the contraction when washing of grey cloth or goods becomes big, and the DIMENSIONAL STABILITY variation can present the outward appearance of wrinkle of setting out, and along with the increase of moisture-holding capacity drying time also can be correspondingly elongated, can damage the original easy-care properties that has of polyester.In order to obtain the standard aqueous rate more than 1.5%, glycerol polymerization must have sufficient polymerization time, considers that from operation or equipment aspect it is disadvantageous implementing with grey cloth, and the state that is preferably in raw cotton or spun yarn is implemented down.
When using cotton after the glycerol polymerization, can make 100% glycerol polymerization polyester cotton or and non-glycerol polymerization cotton carry out blending, perhaps make above-mentioned spun yarn and do not have glycerol polymerization spun yarn etc. and twist yarn.Blending can wait and implement by the mixed fibre of carded (card), the mixed fibre of sliver, mixing in doubling step, spinning process.
The fiber that carries out blending also can be other staple fibres beyond the polyester, but among the present invention from rerum natura, W﹠amp; W, dyeability aspect consider that what mainly use is polyester.Its form can be that circular section, hollow or high degree of profile fiber, superfine fibre, cationic-dyeable and normal pressure can dye fiber (cation dyes, DISPERSE DYES), ingrain fiber, dope-dyed fiber etc., can also combine according to purpose.
After spun yarn enforcement glycerol polymerization, can directly use, the multifilament that also can and then make glycerol polymerization yarn and circular section, hollow or high degree of profile fiber, superfine fibre, false-twisted yarn, cationic-dyeable and normal pressure can dye fiber, ingrain fiber, dope-dyed fiber etc. carries out jet mixed fibre, re-uses after becoming the spun yarn surface coverage and have the tectosome of multifilament.The composite rate of glycerol polymerization fiber at this moment be 10 quality % above, below the 75 quality %, this is more satisfactory aspect hydroscopicity and intensity, feel, DIMENSIONAL STABILITY.If graft polymerization yield is lower than 10 quality %, then just must carry out high glycerol polymerization, thereby fibre strength descends significantly in order to obtain hydroscopicity, and can be owing to cyclic washing causes coming off of fiber, so not ideal.
In the polyester staple fiber in the 2nd invention, suitable crispation number is 8~17/25mm, fibre cutting length from 32mm to square-cut not can, according to the purpose selection that suit.If generally filoplume number or the filoplume from spun yarn twines degree, feel, the consideration of silk quality aspect, and be preferably not too long, be advisable with 32mm~51mm.
When above-mentioned polyester staple fiber is spinned, do not adopt the ring spinning method, silk and the high velocity air of making open-end spinning, wraping spinning etc. is entwined.The air interlacing spinning can be carried out with the known method of being put down in writing in the public clear 56-31370 communique of spy.Aforesaid way is different with ring spindle yarn, structurally have the effect that suppresses the silk filoplume, but this structure can not be avoided the feel hardening.Among the present invention, preferably spinning conditions is set at the condition of the feel that can not damage spun yarn, bulkiness, anti-pilling, avoids to make that degree of entwining increases, the low speed spinning under the hyperbar of feel hardening etc.In addition, the distribution of the glycerol polymerization fiber in the spun yarn can randomly distribute, and is all more satisfactory but the glycerol polymerization fiber is distributed in aspect the wearing feeling of core shell structure filament shapes when feel, moisture absorption of fiber core morely.
In the 2nd invention, by the filoplume number that spun spun yarn had, filoplume length 1mm filoplume number above, that be lower than 3mm was 30~350 during preferably every 10m yarn was long, and the above filoplume number of filoplume length 3mm is below 15, and better is that the filoplume number satisfies below 300, below 10 respectively simultaneously.When the filoplume number surpasses 350 and 15 respectively, especially in bulk and loose tissue such as interlock and pile stitch, can not obtain sufficient anti-pilling, thus not ideal.In addition, when the above filoplume number of filoplume length 1mm is lower than 30, the thinner spun yarn of height degree of entwining and yarn diameter can be become,, the grey cloth of skilled hand's sense of bulkiness difference can be become although anti-pilling increases, thus not ideal.The less spun yarn of filoplume among the present invention can be specific by fibre section shape and fiber number are carried out, the method manufacturing of making spun yarn then with high velocity air.
Then when making fabric, except can using above-mentioned spun yarn separately, in the scope of not damaging feature of the present invention, can also interweave with other fibers.The present invention organizes in the more knit stitches at the lappet of deer point decorative pattern, figured texture weave, pile stitch etc. and also can bring into play effect except common knit stitches such as interlock, plain stitch and twill-weave, satin weave.
Above-mentioned grey cloth does not need to adopt necessary dyeing manufacturing procedure treatment conditions when using copolymerization of polyester fiber to obtain anti-pilling, for example the peracidity of pH3~4 is bathed the treatment conditions of the long-time or alkali decrement of mesohigh etc., gets final product and be set at processing conditions in the past or that meet the properties of materials that interweaves.Common polyester fiber adopts 120~130 ℃ of high pressure dyeings of 20~40 minutes down, and cationic-dyeable type and normal pressure disperse to dye the type modified poly ester and adopt 98~120 ℃ normal pressure or high pressure dyeing.
Can also implement in the 2nd invention that ultra-violet absorber, silk protein (silk protein), amino acid, shitosan are handled, suction is antifouling, hydrophobic, the back processed of antibacterial deodourizing, antibacterial processing etc.The present invention is the less spun yarn of filoplume, do not resemble the operation of singing that needs cloth and silk the ring spindle yarn in the past, but in textiles, can after the dyeing of adopting usually, implement to singe or the cropping processing, in addition after singing, can also carry out light alkali treatment, remove the fusion ball top, dyeing then improves grey quality, anti-pilling, feel to replenish.
Below the 3rd invention of the present invention is described.
In the 3rd invention of the present invention, the parallel type that heat shrinkability characteristic is bigger curls the tendentiousness staple fibre as the air interlacing spun yarn, especially after other fiber blends of the tendency of will curling polyester staple fibers peacekeeping are made air interlacing spun yarn form, under fabric shape, heat-treat, make it to show sufficient shrinkage, become the silk structure that is provided with a lot of spaces between fiber, thereby improve flexibility, give bulkiness and soft feeling and retractility for the distortion between interlacing fiber.And then make the structure that the great majority that dyeing is added the curling tendentiousness fiber that can cause the fiber hair badminton man-hour are enclosed in layer segment in the spun yarn, suppressing the generation of filoplume ball, can do not carry out special singe and the situation of alkali decrement processing etc. under improve grey quality.
In explanation to the 3rd invention, short of specified otherwise, fiber promptly refers to staple fibre.
Parallel type in the 3rd invention curl the tendentiousness staple fibre preferably by homopolymerization polyester such as polyethylene terephthalate, polybutylene terephthalate (PBT), polytrimethylene terephthalate or with this polyester be basic framework and copolymerization the 3rd, the curling tendentiousness fiber of polyester system that obtains such as the 4 one-tenths copolyesters that grade.For example, the mass ratio that can adopt (A)/(B) 45/55~55/45 scope, be the parallel composite fiber of the combination of the general homopolymerization polyester of composition (A) and its copolyester of another kind of composition (B).
Copolymer composition as the copolyester in the 3rd invention, consider from thermal shrinkage stress and percent thermal shrinkage aspect, can suit to select to use the acid or the diol component of M-phthalic acid, 5-sulfoisophthalic acid sodium, adipic acid, neopentyl glycol, diethylene glycol (DEG) etc., the amount of its copolymerization, preferred 4~the 18mol% of high-melting-point type, the more preferably scope of 5~12mol%, the preferred 12~40mol% of low melting point type, the more preferably scope of 18~30mol%.When the amount of copolymerization was lower than 4mol%, the shrinkage of fiber was not enough, and when surpassing 40mol%, after add stress relaxation take place man-hour easily, convergent force, raw cotton intensity, heat endurance can descend.
More specifically, it as fusing point 240~260 ℃ high-melting-point type, the combination of the copolyester (B) of can adopt polyethylene terephthalate (A) and copolymerization 5mol% M-phthalic acid and 2mol%5-sulfoisophthalic acid sodium, and be 140~160 ℃ low melting point type as fusing point, as (B) composition for example copolyester etc. of 30mol% neopentyl glycol that can adopt copolymerization.At blend fibre is that cellulose fibre etc. relatively has in the stable on heating combination, and (B) composition preferably adopts the high-melting-point type, and in not too requiring the stable on heating knitwear purposes of using silk, wool etc., preferably adopts the low melting point type.
The hot water shrinkage of the curling tendentiousness fiber in the 3rd invention, be shrinkage factor to be become under the maximum fluid temperature condition try to achieve in the characteristic of not damaging fiber, the low melting point type is under boiling temperature, and the high-melting-point type is under condition of high voltage, its free shrinkage is preferably more than 20%, and better is more than 30%.If the hot water shrinkage is lower than 20%, it is insufficient to shrink expressive force, can not obtain different shrinkage factor poor between interlacing fiber, is difficult to obtain soft hand feeling and retractility.
The fiber number of curling tendentiousness fiber is more than the 0.8dtex, below the 4.0dtex, more than the preferred 1.0dtex, below the 3.3dtex, more preferably below the 2.5dtex.This is that convergent force is not enough, not only can not get bulkiness owing to when being lower than 0.8dtex, be easy to generate stress relaxation, and the formation number of fiber in the spun yarn increases, and brings out filoplume easily, causes balling-up.And if surpass 4.0dtex, although convergent force increases, but high-denier-fibre is distributed in the outside of spun yarn more than fine denier fiber because of centrifugal force in the mechanism of spinning, the tendentiousness fiber curl this moment because the dress of braiding and dyeing process or goods and washing and rubbed, the chance of bringing out the filoplume ball increases, and obviously influences the ANTIPILLING effect.So the fiber number of the tendentiousness fiber that preferably curls is set to identical with blend fibre or below it, make it become the structure that can be distributed in the inside of spun yarn mostly.
The tendentiousness fiber that curls is spinned into the air interlacing spun yarn and is become fabric, is carried out heat treatment under the fabric state, embodies curling by thermal contraction.Therefore, in the fabric of the present invention, have the crimped fibre that fiber number is 1.0~6.0dtex.
The curl cross sectional shape of tendentiousness fiber of parallel type in the 3rd invention in the scope of described (A), (B) composition ratio, except round, also can be doughnut or ellipse, triangle, Y type, flat, four jiaos etc. profiled filament.Hollow type or special-shaped shape obtain heavy denier easily, have stronger thermal stress than the circular section usually.And, because rigidity is arranged, thereby easily high-speed eddy is produced opposing, be not easy to disperse to the outside, play more effective effect.In addition, in order to obtain the interfibrous contraction rate variance of blended ratio, the just essential contraction expressive force that improves the tendentiousness fiber that curls, and aforesaid fiber shape more can be emphasized the effect of the 3rd invention.
The curling tendentiousness fiber of parallel type in the 3rd invention, in the time of the high scalability that requires as the characteristic of fabric more than 30%, it can use separately or under near 100% state, but in the retractility that only needs appropriateness, and when paying attention to the practical characteristic of fabric, can be to use behind the low shrink(LS) fiber blend below 4% with boiling water shrinkage.As with the low shrink(LS) blended material of curling tendentiousness fiber blend, preferably have the material that can make strong cross sectional shape of rigidity and fiber number (proportion), be distributed in the spun yarn structure that the spun yarn outside covers the tendentiousness fiber that curls mostly thereby be preferably made blended material.The fiber that conforms to it have hollow rate more than 8% doughnut or the fiber periphery on the polyester staple fiber of degree of profile more than 1.8 of more than one jut arranged.
If doughnut, the cross sectional shape of hollow bulb can be circle, ellipse, triangle, flat, four jiaos etc.In addition, the number of the hollow in the cross section can be one or more, and hollow can form in when spinning, also can form after special component in cotton, silk or the cloth and silk is removed in dissolving.The total amount of hollow rate is preferred more than 8%, be lower than 40%, if be lower than 8%, convergent force can descend, and 40% when above, and rigidity, fibre morphology retentivity are lower, and perhaps the cross section can be by damaged, the contractive effect variation.
In addition, if profiled filament, preferably have more than 1.8, the fiber of the odd-shaped cross section shape (Y type, cross, star-like, other ditch types etc.) of 3 above juts especially arranged on the fibre section periphery of 2.0 above degree of profiles (circumscribed circle diameter/inscribed circle diameter).When degree of profile was lower than above-mentioned value, stress relaxation was bigger, is difficult to show convergent force in the blended ratio, was difficult to obtain needed bulkiness and soft feel.
With regard to low shrinkage fibre, so long as the boiling water shrinkage under 20 minutes the free shrink state is that fiber below 4% gets final product in boiling water, there is not particular determination, but preferred synthetic fiber, this is because synthetic fiber can at random determine fiber number, fibre section shape etc., and especially preferred is the homopolymerization polyester fiber of the polyalkylene terephthalates diol ester etc. of polyethylene terephthalate, polybutylene terephthalate (PBT) representative.
Parallel type in the spun yarn curl the preferred 10 quality % of blending ratio of tendentiousness fiber above, below the 60 quality %, more preferably 15 quality % above, below the 45 quality %.Especially in the time of high degree of profile fiber, because shrinkage stress is strong, thereby blending ratio is preferably in below the 40 quality %.Blending ratio surpasses at 60% o'clock, and the contraction of spun yarn itself becomes greatly, is difficult to obtain the bulkiness as spun yarn, can influence feel.And when being lower than 10 quality %, can not obtain the curling tendentiousness fiber of enough highly shrinkables and the contraction rate variance between the low shrinkage fibre, the bulkiness deficiency of spun yarn might can not get flexibility.
The low shrinkage fibre that carries out blending with curling tendentiousness fiber, preferred 0.1~the 5.0dtex of its fiber number, and then the shape of fibre section can be common solid circular section, but doughnut or degree of profile the polyester staple fiber 1.8 or more of hollow rate more than 8% is more satisfactory aspect anti-pilling.This is that its fibre section radical is less, and rigidity is stronger, thereby is not easy complexing between the fiber, obtains anti-pilling easily because of the fiber with aforesaid fiber number, form.; have more than and be limited to above-mentioned fiber; as long as anti-pilling satisfies more than 3 grades; can also use cotton; wool; silk; natural fabrics such as fiber crops; artificial silk; モ ダ-Le; copper ammonia fibre; polynoise fiber; リ ヨ セ Le; acetate fibre (two; three) etc. regenerated fiber; refined fiber; semisynthetic fibre; polyamide fiber; the polytrimethylene terephthalate fiber; the polyester fiber of cation dyeable or normal pressure stainability; the synthetic fiber of 2 composition spinning filler rod line (cutting fibre) fiber types of polyamide fiber and polyester fiber etc., above-mentioned fiber also can be used with.
Low contraction synthetic fiber in the low shrinkage fibre can contain the inorganic particulate of titanium oxide, zirconium carbide or the kaolin etc. of 0.1~5.0 quality %.When containing titanium oxide or zirconium carbide etc., owing to absorb radiation heat from body temperature, and heat is kept at fibrous inside, thereby can improve heat insulating ability.In addition, the titanium oxide visible light absorbing, the shielding sunshine has the effect that prevents that temperature rises in the clothes in summer.When the content of inorganic particulate surpasses 5.0 quality %, the spinnability variation, and when being lower than 0.1 quality %, be difficult to obtain heat insulating ability and effect of heat insulation.
In addition, when low shrinkage fibre is a degree of profile when being 2.4 high degree of profile Y type cross-section fibers, if be subjected to external force on the direction vertical with fiber axis, then fiber can deform thereupon, after eliminating, external force recovers former state, thereby the buffering effect with appropriateness, bring soft hand feeling, for the distortion of length direction, have the resistance same with the hollow sectional shape fiber, can weaken interfibrous complexing, the synergy of utilization and fiber number can improve anti-pilling.
The boiling water shrinkage of low shrinkage fibre must be below 4.0%, and the contraction rate variance with between increase and the curling tendentiousness fiber obtains bulk and soft spun yarn, and better is below 3.0%.In the blended ratio as the fabric of finished product, the fibre length difference of high-shrinkage fibre and low shrinkage fibre is preferred more than 7%, more preferably more than 8%.If be lower than 7%, lack bulkiness, flexibility easily as grey cloth.The additive that is contained in the spun yarn can also have antibacterial deodourizing agent, bacteriostatic agent, mould inhibitor, pigment etc. except described titanium oxide, zirconium carbide, kaolin etc., do not have particular restriction.
The boiling water shrinkage of the spun yarn in the 3rd invention is preferred more than 8%, more preferably more than 12%.It is preferred more than 20% in 100% of the tendentiousness fiber to curl.If be lower than above-mentioned value, might be able to not embody enough curling, thereby can be difficult to obtain retractility.Blended ratio in according to the present invention, the curling tendentiousness fiber by containing highly shrinkable and the low-shrinkage fiber of various characteristics, can moderately suppress the contraction of spun yarn itself, show loftiness, thereby can keep appropriate retractility, acquisition has the soft hand feeling of the feature of blended material.
Manufacture method as the air interlacing spun yarn in the 3rd invention, promptly by the curling tendentiousness fiber of independent highly shrinkable, or obtain the method for spun yarn by the curling tendentiousness fiber of this highly shrinkable and other low shrinkage fibre, can use the crin of the even mixed cotton mode of carded (card) mixed cotton etc., but it is desirable to obtain: utilizing before sliver mixes the crin operation of fibre etc. by following method, make the tendentiousness fiber that curls and be distributed in fiber core mostly, and low shrinkage fibre is distributed in the crin of outer field core shell structure mostly, then at spinning process with this crin drawing-off, perhaps after the draw zone of spinning process will curl each crin drawing-off of tendentiousness fiber and low shrinkage fibre, carry out open-end spinning, the high velocity air of wraping spinning etc. is entwined and is obtained.Above-mentioned air interlacing spinning system is different with ring spindle yarn, has the effect that suppresses the silk filoplume on the silk structure, but the one side of the easy hardening of feel is also arranged.Among the present invention, essential feel, bulkiness, the anti-pilling of considering spun yarn of spinning conditions avoids preferably that the degree of entwining increases, the low speed spinning under the hyperbar of feel hardening etc.
The fibre length of air interlacing spun yarn is short more, fiber number is thin more, disperses because of high-speed eddy easily more, thereby causes being distributed in mostly the spun yarn outside.Therefore the fiber length of tendentiousness fiber of preferably curling is set to and to mix long and slender dimension equal or more than it, makes spun yarn become the combining structure that layer segment in it is distributed with curling tendentiousness fiber mostly.The curl long preferred 38~51mm of fiber of tendentiousness fiber, blend fibre be for it on an equal basis or below it, and be for example more satisfactory during 44mm~32mm.
Spun spun yarn in the 3rd invention is the air interlacing spun yarn that the relation of the cross-section fibers radical (Y) of the filoplume number (X) of this spun yarn and this spun yarn satisfies following (1) formula.
0.4Y≤X≤2.5Y (1) formula
X: the radical of the filoplume among every 10m more than the length 1mm
Y: the cross-section fibers radical of spun yarn
The cross-section fibers radical of spun yarn: 5315 * 1.11/ (English cotton numbers * filamentary dtex)
Wherein, when mix using multiple different fiber numbers filamentary, can calculate the filoplume number, sum up then according to its blending ratio.
When next the air interlacing spun yarn that obtains being made fabric, this spun yarn can use separately, as long as within the scope of the invention, also can interweave with other fibers in addition.Fabric of the present invention is organized in the more knit stitches at the lappet of deer point decorative pattern, figured texture weave, pile stitch etc. and also can be brought into play effect except common knit stitches such as interlock, plain stitch and twill-weave, satin weave.
The fabric that obtains is further through the heat treatment of the hot water treatment identical with general concise, lax, dyeing etc. etc., especially by making the high-shrinkage fibre thermal contraction in the spun yarn that constitutes fabric, can make spun yarn embody bulkiness, present soft hand feeling, and have good anti-pilling, become needed spun fabric.
5%~40% contraction takes place in the spun yarn in the 3rd invention in boiling water.Therefore, feel, the order that must consider the finished product fabric designs spun yarn and grey cloth after paying (Japanese basis weight), cloth width of cloth length etc.The boiling water shrinkage of the spun yarn among the present invention is preferred more than 8%, more preferably more than 12%.In dyeing processing, must make spun yarn or grey cloth show the potential convergent force that is had fully by concise, lax operation, dyeing process etc., preferably use liquid-flow dyeing machine.The desirable especially practice is in concise, lax operation, carries out 10~20 minutes even and sufficient relaxation processes 70~80 ℃ of front and back, heats up afterwards.Preferably use softener simultaneously.
In the textiles in the 3rd invention, can singe, mercerising processing etc. to be to improve quality, feel, the rerum natura of other fibers, especially cellulose fibre etc., but feature of the present invention is not need for the anti-pilling that obtains synthetic fiber is singed especially, alkali decrement, acid treatment, cropping etc., but also can obtain finished product of the present invention.Do not need too in the knitted fabric to carry out alkali treatment and acid treatment, but equally can obtain finished product of the present invention yet for the anti-pilling that obtains synthetic fiber.But, can implement resin finishing or surface nursing, antibacterial deodourizing processing etc. in order to obtain the anti-pilling of other fibers.
The following describes the 4th invention of the present invention.
In the 4th invention of the present invention, utilize 2 kinds of big staple fibres of heat shrinkability characteristic difference, by making the air interlacing spun yarn with the high-shrinkage polyester staple fibers of the specific fiber number of having of high thermal stress type, cross sectional shape and blending form with low-shrinkage short fiber of other specific fiber numbers, cross sectional shape, with its filoplume numerical control below certain number, weaken interfibrous complexing simultaneously, obtain anti-pilling, and then realize soft hand feeling by different contraction differences.
In addition, in the explanation of the 4th invention, short of particularly pointing out, fiber promptly refers to staple fibre.
Copolyester in the 4th invention, be to be that the homopolymerization polyester such as polyalkylene terephthalates diol ester of representative are basic framework with polyethylene terephthalate, polybutylene terephthalate (PBT) etc., copolymerization forms as the polyol component of two functionality carboxylic acids such as the M-phthalic acid of copolymer composition, naphthalene dicarboxylic acids, adipic acid or neopentyl glycol, bisphenol-A etc.
In the copolymerization of polyester fiber in the 4th invention,, consider preferred M-phthalic acid, the amount of its copolymerization, preferred 4~12mol%, the more preferably scope of 5~10mol% as copolymer composition from thermal shrinkage stress and percent thermal shrinkage aspect.When the copolymerization amount of M-phthalic acid was lower than 4mol%, the shrinkage of fiber was not enough, and when 13mol% is above, after add and man-hour stress relaxation take place easily, convergent force, raw cotton intensity, heat endurance can descend.In addition, in the scope of the key property that does not change the copolymerization of polyester fiber among the present invention, can also contain 5-sulfoisophthalic acid sodium as copolymer composition.
Copolymerization of polyester fiber in the 4th invention, the shape of its fibre section can be common solid circular section, the degree of profile (circumscribed circle diameter/inscribed circle diameter) of jut is arranged at the odd-shaped cross section more than 1.8 but the fibre section is preferably hollow rate on the hollow more than 8% or Y type, fibre section periphery such as cross, star-like.In addition, the copolymerization of polyester fiber among the present invention is a high-shrinkage fibre, it is desirable to, boiling water shrinkage in the hot water under 20 minutes the free shrink is more than 20%, with thermal stress is more than the 0.08cN/dtex, and better is more than 30%, is more than the 0.15cN/dtex with thermal stress.By aforesaid high-shrinkage fibre is used as raw cotton, can reduce the shared composite rate of high-shrinkage fibre in the blended ratio, suppress the shrinkage factor of blended ratio itself, make and shrink the difference increase between fiber, thereby can increase the bulkiness of yarn.
Shrink at height under the situation of doughnut, the cross sectional shape of hollow bulb can be circle, ellipse, triangle, flat, four jiaos etc.The number of the hollow in the cross section can be one or more, and hollow can form in when spinning, also can form after special component in cotton, silk or the cloth and silk is removed in dissolving.The total amount of hollow rate is preferred more than 8%, be lower than 40%, if be lower than 8%, convergent force can descend, and 40% when above, the cross section can be damaged, the contractive effect variation.
In addition, be preferably degree of profile (circumscribed circle diameter/inscribed circle diameter) more than 1.8, especially having more than 2.0 has the fiber of the odd-shaped cross section of 3 above juts shape (Y type, cross, star-like, other ditch types etc.) on the periphery of fibre section.When degree of profile was lower than above-mentioned value, stress relaxation was bigger, is difficult to show convergent force in the blended ratio, was difficult to obtain needed bulkiness and soft feel.
Preferred 1.0~the 4.0dtex of the fiber number of high-shrinkage fiber, more preferably 1.4~3.5dtex.If too thick, thick and stiffization of grey cloth meeting lacks flexibility, if too thin, convergent force can reduce, and the bulkiness that spun yarn showed is abundant inadequately.
Contain above-mentioned high-shrinkage fibre and boiling water shrinkage in the spun yarn (below be also referred to as blended ratio) in the 4th invention and be the low shrinkage fibre below 4%.
With regard to low shrinkage fibre, as long as its boiling water shrinkage is just can use below 4%, there is not particular determination, but preferred synthetic fiber, this is because synthetic fiber can at random determine fiber number, fibre section shape etc., the homopolymerization polyester fiber of the polyalkylene terephthalates diol ester of especially preferred polyethylene terephthalate, polybutylene terephthalate (PBT) representative etc.
The preferred 10 quality % of the composite rate of the high-shrinkage fiber in the spun yarn are above, below the 60 quality %, more preferably 15 quality % above, below the 45 quality %.Especially in the time of high degree of profile fiber, because shrinkage stress is strong, thereby composite rate is preferably in below the 40 quality %.Composite rate surpasses at 60% o'clock, and the contraction of spun yarn itself becomes greatly, is difficult to obtain the bulkiness as spun yarn, can influence feel.And when being lower than 10 quality %, can not obtain enough high-shrinkage fibers and the contraction rate variance between the low shrinkage fibre, the bulkiness deficiency of spun yarn might can not get flexibility.
According to the 4th invention, by high-shrinkage fibre being made aforesaid high-shrinkage fiber, can reduce the composite rate of the high-shrinkage fibre in the spun yarn, moderately suppress the contraction of spun yarn itself, increase loftiness, can obtain to have the soft hand feeling of the feature of blended material.
Preferred 0.1~the 5.0dtex of fiber number of the low shrinkage fibre in the 4th invention, and then the shape of fibre section can be common solid circular section, is that polyester staple fiber more than 1.8 is more satisfactory aspect anti-pilling but hollow rate is doughnut more than 8% or degree of profile.This is because have the fiber of aforesaid fiber number, form because the fibre section radical is less, and rigidity is stronger, thereby is not easy complexing between the fiber, obtains anti-pilling easily.; have more than and be limited to above-mentioned fiber; as long as anti-pilling satisfies more than 3 grades; can also use the synthetic fiber of 2 composition spinning filler rod line style fibers etc. of polyester fiber, polyamide fiber and polyester fiber of regenerated fiber, refined fiber, semisynthetic fibre, polyamide fiber, polytrimethylene terephthalate fiber, cation dyeable or the normal pressure stainability of natural fabrics such as cotton, wool, silk, fiber crops, artificial silk, モ ダ-Le, copper ammonia fibre, polynoise fiber, リ ヨ セ Le, acetate fibre (two, three) etc., above-mentioned fiber also can be used with.
The inorganic particulate that can also contain titanium oxide, zirconium carbide or the kaolin etc. of 0.1~5.0 quality % in the low contraction synthetic fiber in the low shrinkage fibre.When containing titanium oxide or zirconium carbide etc., owing to absorb radiation heat from body temperature, and heat is kept at fibrous inside, thereby can improve heat insulating ability.In addition, titanium oxide can absorb visible light, and the shielding sunshine has the effect that prevents that temperature rises in the clothes in summer.When the content of inorganic particulate surpasses 5.0 quality %, the spinnability variation, and when being lower than 0.1 quality %, be difficult to obtain heat insulating ability and effect of heat insulation.
In addition, when low shrinkage fibre is a degree of profile when being about 2.4 high degree of profile Y type cross-section fibers, if be subjected to external force on the direction vertical with fiber axis, then fiber can deform thereupon, after eliminating, external force recovers former state, thereby the buffering effect with appropriateness, bring soft hand feeling, for the distortion of length direction, have the resistance same with the hollow sectional shape fiber, can weaken interfibrous complexing, the synergy of utilization and fiber number can improve anti-pilling.
The boiling water shrinkage of low shrinkage fibre must be below 4.0%, and the contraction rate variance with between increase and the high-shrinkage fibre obtains bulk and soft spun yarn, and better is below 3.0%.In the blended ratio of finished product fabric, the long difference of the fiber of high-shrinkage fibre and low shrinkage fibre is preferably more than 7%, more preferably more than 8%.If be lower than 7%, lack bulkiness, flexibility easily as grey cloth.The additive that is contained in the spun yarn can also be the antibacterial deodourizing agent, press down equal agent, mould inhibitor, pigment etc. except described titanium oxide, zirconium carbide, kaolin etc., does not have particular restriction.
The boiling water shrinkage of the spun yarn among the present invention is preferred more than 8%, more preferably more than 12%.
Manufacture method as the spun yarn in the 4th invention, be about to the method that high-shrinkage polyester staple fibers and other low shrinkage fibres carry out blending, can use the crin of the even mixed cotton mode of carded mixed cotton etc., but it is desirable to obtain: utilizing before sliver mixes the crin operation of fibre etc. by following method, make high-shrinkage fibre and be distributed in fiber core mostly, and low shrinkage fibre is distributed in the crin of outer field core shell structure mostly, then in spinning process with this crin drawing-off, perhaps after draw zone each crin drawing-off of spinning process, make open-end spinning with high-shrinkage fibre and low shrinkage fibre, the high velocity air of wraping spinning etc. the yarn of entwining.Above-mentioned air interlacing spinning system is different with ring spindle yarn, has the effect that suppresses the silk filoplume on the silk structure, but the one side of the easy hardening of feel is also arranged.Among the present invention, spinning conditions must be considered feel, bulkiness, the anti-pilling of spun yarn, and the degree of preferably avoiding entwining increases, the low speed spinning speed under the hyperbar of feel hardening etc.
Spun spun yarn in the 4th invention is the air interlacing spun yarn that the relation of the cross-section fibers radical (A) of the filoplume number (K) of this spun yarn and this spun yarn satisfies following (1) formula.
0.4A≤K≤3A (1) formula
X: the radical of the filoplume among every 10m more than the length 1mm
Y: the cross-section fibers radical of spun yarn
The cross-section fibers radical of spun yarn: 5315 * 1.11/ (English cotton numbers * filamentary dtex)
Wherein, when mix using multiple different fiber numbers filamentary, calculate the filoplume number, sum up then according to its blending ratio.
When next the spun yarn that obtains being made fabric, can use this spun yarn separately, as long as within the scope of the invention, also can interweave in addition with other fibers.Fabric of the present invention is organized in the more knit stitches at the lappet of deer point decorative pattern, figured texture weave, pile stitch etc. and also can be brought into play effect except common knit stitches such as interlock, plain stitch and twill-weave, satin weave.
The fabric that obtains is further through the heat treatment of the hot water treatment identical with general concise, lax, dyeing etc. etc., especially by making the high-shrinkage fibre thermal contraction in the spun yarn that constitutes fabric, can make spun yarn embody bulkiness, present soft hand feeling, and have good anti-pilling, become needed spun fabric.
Spun yarn in the 4th invention produces 5%~40% contraction in boiling water.Therefore, feel, the order that must consider the finished product fabric paid, designed spun yarn and grey cloth after the cloth width of cloth length etc.The boiling water shrinkage of the spun yarn among the present invention is preferred more than 8%, more preferably more than 12%.
In dyeing processing, must make spun yarn or grey cloth show the potential convergent force that is had fully by concise, lax operation, dyeing process etc., preferably use liquid-flow dyeing machine.The desirable especially practice is in concise, lax operation, after 10~20 minutes even and sufficient relaxation processes are carried out in 70~80 ℃ of front and back, heats up.Preferably use softener simultaneously.
In the textiles in the 4th invention, can singe, mercerising processing etc. is the processing of purpose with quality, feel, the rerum natura of improving other fibers, especially cellulose fibre etc., but feature of the present invention is not need for the anti-pilling that obtains synthetic fiber is singed especially, alkali decrement, acid treatment, cropping etc., but also can obtain finished product of the present invention.Do not need too in the knitted fabric to carry out alkali treatment and acid treatment, but equally can obtain finished product yet for the anti-pilling that obtains synthetic fiber.But in order to obtain the anti-pilling of other fibers, can implement resin finishing and, surface nursing, antibacterial deodourizing processing etc.
Embodiment
Specify the present invention with embodiment and comparative example below, but the present invention is not limited.
(embodiment 1~5, comparative example 1~6)
At first the 1st invention of the present invention is described by embodiment.
Equal operating characteristic viscosity is 0.63 mylar in embodiment, the comparative example, use Y type abnormity is used, hollow is used and each spinning head of solid usefulness, be that 290 ℃, spinning speed are under 1600m/ minute the condition after the spinning at polymer temperature respectively, stretch under 112 ℃ the condition speed 140m/ minute, temperature, stretching ratio is respectively: Y type profiled filament is 2.34, doughnut is that 2.84 (circle, triangle, matrix pattern are so), solid fibers are 2.60, and obtaining shearing length respectively is that 38mm, crispation number are the polyester staple fiber about 14/25mm.
Field, village eddy current circulator (field, the village eddy current circulator) MVS that uses field, village machinery (strain) to make in the wraping spinning spins under nozzle exit pressure 0.45MPa, spinning speed 350m/ minute condition.Wherein, having only the spinning speed of embodiment 5 is 400m/ minute, and the spinning speed that has only comparative example 6 is 200m/ minute.
The twist factor of the ring spindle yarn of comparative example 1 is 3.2, all obtains English cotton number 30 numbers.The interlock of knitted fabric be long in 22 plane No. (gauge), looped pile (loop) be under 100 the condition for 325mm, stringer (wale) number, plain stitch is to be that 275mm, stringer number are to weave under 100 the condition at 28 plane No., feather length.And then grey cloth is dry after open-width, wet process, then at 180 ℃ of amorphous intermediates that carried out for 40 seconds.Double rib, plain weave also dye (130 ℃, 20 minutes, fluorescence DISPERSE DYES 0.8%omf) with the high pressure liquid stream dyeing machine respectively separately in batches afterwards, and reduction is cleaned, after dehydrating, 160 ℃ of extreme trace setting of carrying out for 60 seconds.
The condition determination of knitted fabric is as described below.
(1) rate of ultraviolet shield and visible light transmissivity
Use the system UV-3100PC integrating sphere auxiliary equipment ISR-3100 integrating sphere internal diameter 60mm Φ (using ultraviolet bandpass filter) of Shimadzu Seisakusho Ltd., measure under the following conditions.
Standard white plate: barium sulfate
Rate of ultraviolet shield is measured wavelength: 280nm~400nm
Visible light transmissivity is measured wavelength: 380nm~780nm
(2) grey cloth thickness: with dial (dial) formula thickness meter, 2 grey cloths are overlaped, obtain per 1 mean value of measuring grey cloth central portion 5 times along its length.
(3) anti-pilling: measure according to JIS L 1076 A methods (ICI type testing machine was judged with 5 hours).
(4) evaluation of raw cotton, grey cloth: with 3 following level evaluations.
Zero: good, zero △: good partially, *: bad.
The rate of ultraviolet shield of cloth and silk and visible light transmissivity generally depend on the density, tissue, thickness, form and aspect of the kind of polymer property, fibre morphology (degree of profile, cross sectional shape, curling having or not and what), inorganic particulate of fiber and content, filament number, silk size and sth. made by twisting structure, tectosome etc.
The evaluation result of fiber that obtains and its cloth and silk of use is as shown in table 1.
Table 1
Raw cotton Spinning The flat pin of knitted fabric Overall merit
Cross sectional shape Degree of profile Hollow rate (%) ??TiO 2(quality %) Fiber number (dte x) Method The filoplume number (root/10m) Balling-up Thick mm Whiteness Rate of ultraviolet shield (%) Visible light transmissivity (%)
Long 1mm Long 3mm
Embodiment ??1 The Y type ??2.4 ??- ??0.4 ??1.6 Looping ??159 ????3 ????4-5 ??0.39 ??86.0 ?37.1 ??○
??2 The field type ??- 38 (4 holes) ??0.4 ??2.0 Looping ??170 ????4 ????5 ??0.39 ??87.6 ?36.4 ??○
??3 The field type ??- 38 (4 holes) ??0.9 ??2.0 Looping ??188 ????7 ????5 ??0.40 ○ △ ??91.9 ?31.8 ??○
??4 The Y type ??2.4 ??- ??0.8 ??1.6 Looping ??171 ????6 ????4-5 ??0.40 ○ △ ??91.3 ?32.8 ??○
??5 The Y type ??2.4 ??- ??0.4 ??1.6 Looping ??277 ????3 ????4 ??0.38 ??85.9 ?37.6 ??○
Comparative example ??1 The Y type ??2.4 ??- ??0.4 ??1.6 The ring ingot ??1655 ???203 ????2-3 ??0.37 ??87.9 ?32.3 ??×
??2 Round ??- -(solid) ??0.4 ??1.6 Looping ??177 ????4 ????4 ??0.32 ??79.7 ?43.0 ??×
??3 Round ??- -(solid) ??0.4 ??2.0 Looping ??153 ????6 ????4-5 ??0.33 ??77.8 ?47.2 ??×
??4 The △ type ??1.4 ??- ??0.4 ??1.6 Looping ??161 ????4 ????4-5 ??0.32 ??82.9 ?42.0 ??×
??5 Round ??- -(solid) ??3.5 ??2.0 Looping ??143 ????8 ????5 ??0.35 × ??92.2 ?30.1 ??×
??6 The Y type ??2.4 ??- ??0.4 ??1.6 Looping ????25 ????1 ????5 ??0.36 ??82.4 ?40.9 ??×
Among the embodiment 1~5, the filoplume number is less, and pilling tendency is plain stitch much less, and interlock also more than the 4-5 level, has reached gratifying level.In addition, compare with comparative example, grey cloth thickness (bulkiness) is arranged, rate of ultraviolet shield height, visible light transmissivity are also less.On the other hand, among the embodiment 3 and 4, although the amount of titanium oxide more, do not influence whiteness, thereby colour rendering do not influenced, compare more with comparative example 5 and can obtain enough whiteness.In the comparative example 1, rate of ultraviolet shield, visible light transmissivity are all good, but filoplume is more, and particularly the pilling tendency in the interlock is bad, are the 1-2 level.In the comparative example 2~5, filoplume is few, and pilling tendency is more than 3 grades, but rate of ultraviolet shield, visible light transmissivity are all relatively poor.This may be since fiber between and the friction between fiber and the metal big, easy longitude and latitude is entwined between the fiber, and apparent fiber footpath is thicker, compare with the embodiment 1~5 that becomes bulk easily, the grey cloth thickness difference, so by the surface reflectivity that fibre morphology caused is less etc. reason has also caused harmful effect.
In addition, the fibre section is the circle or the comparative example 2~5 of low degree of profile, do not resemble to present the soft hand feeling that resiliency is arranged the Y fiber type of embodiment 1,4 and 5, but the thickness difference of grey cloth is the grey cloth of the strong skilled hand's sense of coarse hard sense.Embodiment 5 compares with embodiment 1, and the filoplume number increases, but has the soft hand feeling that is similar to ring ingot silk, even if the pilling tendency interlock also can be kept 4 grades, has enough performances.
Comparative example 6 is the situations that the silk speed in when spinning are set at low speed, compares in other situations, and the filoplume number more than the long 1mm sharply reduces, and is 25, and anti-pilling is improved., because the degree of entwining is stronger, thereby feel becomes thick and stiff, has and embodiment 1 and 4 bulkinesses that shown, the diverse trend of soft hand feeling, become the also bigger knitted fabric of rate of ultraviolet shield decline, visible light transmissivity.
Embodiment 1~5 has anti-pilling and the colour rendering that practicality is arranged, and has the rate of ultraviolet shield and the permeation-proof effect of approximate full dull yarn.Compare with ring spinning, the filoplume number of wraping spinning is less, anti-pilling is good, its shortcoming is the skilled hand's sense that is different from ring ingot silk, and it improves very difficulty, satisfy constitutive requirements of the present invention and could both have soft hand feeling and have only, possess anti-pilling and ultraviolet-shielding type, barrier property and colour rendering etc. again simultaneously.
The spun yarn that the embodiment of use table 1 and comparative example are put down in writing, the evaluation result of the anti-pilling when making interlock is as shown in table 2.
Table 2
Embodiment Comparative example
????1 ????2 ????3 ????4 ????5 ????1 ????2 ????3 ????4 ????5 ????6
Grey cloth thick (mm) ??0.63 ????0.68 ??0.70 ?0.64 ????0.63 ??0.59 ?0.57 ?0.59 ?0.58 ?0.62 ?0.63
Balling-up (level) ??4-5 ????5 ??4-5 ?4-5 ????4 ??1-2 ??3 ?4 ?4 ?4-5 ??5
(embodiment 6~12, comparative example 7~11)
Below by embodiment the 2nd invention is described.
Embodiment, comparative example all use homopolymers mylar (polyethylene terephthalate), after spinning under the common melt temperature, under the crimping by stretching process conditions of 190 ℃ of draft temperatures, 110 ℃ of the temperature of curling, make, obtain the raw cotton of the sharp-pointed Y type cross sectional shape (degree of profile 2.4) of 1.6T, 38mm.
Use field, village machinery (strain) system field, village eddy current circulator MVS in air interlacing (looping) spinning, spinning speed all spins under 0.45MPa, spinning speed 350m/ minute condition of nozzle pressure except embodiment 6 is 400m/ minute, comparative example 4 for 200m/ minute.The twist factor of ring spindle yarn is that the English cotton number of 3.2, two spun yarns is 30 numbers.
Raw cotton, spun yarn are all implemented glycerol polymerization processing under the following conditions.With the Ovshinsky circulator (オ-バ-マ イ ヤ-, Obermaier), wash with boiling water according to concise back under the nearly HC 1g/l condition in promise, the glycerol polymerization of then methacrylic acid 100% product 20%omf being carried out under dispersant 1.0%omf, sweller 1.0%omf, sode ash 0.8%omf, 1: 10,100 ℃ conditions of bath raio 40 minutes is handled.Percent grafting is 16%.With the boiling water washing, under sode ash 4.0%omf, sodium phosphate trimer 0.15%omf, 70 ℃ of conditions, carry out neutralisation treatment afterwards.Then, carry out the sodium salt processing, wash with boiling water then at 70 ℃ of following minute 3 times input sode ash 12%omf and sodium phosphate trimer 0.15%omf.The standard aqueous rate of this raw cotton, spun yarn is 7.2%.Only change the use amount of mentioned reagent, obtain the glycerol polymerization processing raw cotton of the graft polymerization yield 26%, 11% of raw cotton.Moisture rate after the sodium saltization is respectively 12.1%, 4.4%.Use above-mentioned glycerol polymerization processing raw cotton, under knitting form, implement the later operation of sodium salt processing.The blending ratio of the glycerol polymerization used in wraping spinning processing raw cotton and knitted fabric characteristic, evaluation result are as shown in table 1.(omf is meant the quality % with respect to fiber quality)
Spun yarn is woven into interlock (22 plane No., feather length 325mm, 100W), and then grey cloth is carried out drying after open-width, wet process, then at 180 ℃ of amorphous intermediates that carried out for 40 seconds.Then carry out the sodium salt processing, wash with boiling water with the amount of reagent that is suitable for percent grafting.Dehydrate afterwards,, obtain interlock as gray yarn (generating り) 160 ℃ of extreme trace setting of carrying out for 60 seconds.
Under the following conditions spun yarn, grey cloth are measured, estimated.
(5) yarn filoplume number: represent every 10m yarn long in long 1mm above and be shorter than 3mm, and the filoplume number more than the 3mm.Analyzer uses and applies the system F-1 indextester of island weaving society.
(6) standard aqueous rate: measure according to JIS L 1095.
(7) fast light fastness: measure according to JIS L 0842 ultraviolet carbon arc lamp phototesting (the 3rd exposure method).
(8) size changing rate: measure according to JIS L 1018F-1 (silk screen drying).
(9) anti-pilling: measure according to JIS L 1076 A methods (ICI type 5 hours).
(10) feel: the touch sense of silk sheet (パ ネ ラ one) is judged according to 5 people.
Zero: softness and dry sensation are good, zero △: have some smooth senses, *: smooth sense is strong or coarse hard sense is strong.
(11) zero be good in the overall merit hurdle, zero △ be partially well, * be bad.
Table 3
Cotton standard aqueous rate (%) Composite rate (%) Mixed cotton method and spinning method The standard aqueous rate (%) of spun yarn Yarn filoplume number Size changing rate (%) Feel Balling-up (level) Fast light fastness (level) Overall merit
The grafting cotton The cotton of being untreated Be lower than 3mm more than the 1mm More than the 3mm Horizontal Vertical When dry When moistening
Comparative example 7 ????12.1 ????100 ????0 Carded mixed cotton wraping spinning ????12.1 ????171 ????4 ????-14.3 ????-8.2 ????○ ????× ????4-5 ??≤4 ????×
Embodiment 6 ????12.1 50 cores 50 shells Sliver mixes wraping spinning ????6.5 ????168 ????3 ????-4.9 ????-2.9 ????○ ????○△ ????4 ??4 ????○
Embodiment 7 ????12.1 30 shells 70 shells Sliver mixes wraping spinning ????3.6 ????165 ????3 ????-2.0 ????-1.6 ????○ ????○ ????4 ??≥4 ????○
Comparative example 8 ????7.2 ????100 ????0 Carded mixed cotton wraping spinning ????7.3 ????166 ????3 ????-10.6 ????-5.7 ????○ ????× ????4-5 ??2 ????×
Embodiment 8 ????7.2 ????40 ????60 Carded mixed cotton wraping spinning ????3.0 ????171 ????3 ????-2.1 ????-1.0 ????○ ????○ ????4 ??4 ????○
Embodiment 9 ????4.4 ????50 ????50 Carded mixed cotton wraping spinning ????2.2 ????163 ????3 ????-1.9 ????-0.3 ????○ ????○△ ????4 ??≥4 ????○
Comparative example 9 ????4.4 ????100 ????0 The ring spinning of carded mixed cotton ????4.4 ????1660 ????203 ????-3.5 ????-1.6 ????○ ????○△ ????2 ??≥4 ????×
Embodiment 10 ????12.1 60 cores 40 shells Mixing on the Fasciated spun yarn that obtains the jet mixed fibre of long filament by sliver ????5.3 ????134 ????2 ????-3.1 ????-0.8 ????○ ????○ ????4 ??≥4 ????○
Embodiment 11 ????12.1 30 cores 70 shells Sliver mixes wraping spinning ????3.6 ????282 ????4 ????-2.1 ????-1.8 ????○ ????○ ????4 ??≥4 ????○
Comparative example 10 ????12.1 ????100 ????0 Carded mixed cotton wraping spinning ????12.1 ????25 ????1 ????-11.6 ????-6.0 ????× ????× ????5 ??≤4 ????×
Embodiment the 6,7, the 11st, is mixed in most distribution glycerol polymerization processing fiber on the fiber core and the example of the outer untreated raw cotton that distributes mostly by carrying out sliver.Embodiment 6~11 all has better anti-pilling than the ring spindle yarn of comparative example 9.This may be the less reason of bringing owing to spinning method of filoplume.
In the comparative example 8,9, the standard aqueous rate is higher, but smooth sense is arranged when moistening, and wearing feeling is poor, and the size changing rate height, lacks the peculiar DIMENSIONAL STABILITY of polyester.By comparison, embodiment 6~11 has used the raw cotton that is untreated with, perhaps made the structure that the glycerol polymerization processing fiber is distributed in layer segment in the spun yarn mostly, thereby can not damage hygroscopicity, can not feel smooth sense when moistening yet, and given dry feeling, and therefore can improve the comfortableness when wearing, obtain practical fast light fastness.
Among the embodiment 10, further make the structure that covers the spun yarn surface with multifilament, obtained same effect this moment.Used the mixed Fasciated spun yarn that spins 40 numbers of sliver of embodiment 6 among the embodiment 10, with ヘ バ-ラ イ ソ society system nozzle (P133 type), at long filament feed rate+0.4%, spun yarn feed rate-0.2%, air pressure 4.0kg/cm 2, speed 200m minute condition under in this spun yarn, the entwine false twist yarn of 55T, 36 long filament Y type cross sections (degree of profile 2.0, titanium oxide content 0.4 quality %), make the spun yarn of entwining.This spun yarn of entwining is that degree of entwining is 82/m and the spun yarn of entwining that is equivalent to 29 numbers.This spun yarn of entwining is by the spun yarn of the form of relative long filament covering, thereby the gloss difference of long filament and spun yarn is less, presents the few uniform outward appearance of filoplume.In addition, the structure that has of this spun yarn of entwining is: composite rate is that 43.6% glycerol polymerization processing fiber is distributed in layer segment in this spun yarn mostly.After carrying out the dyeing same, sodium salt processing, fine finishining, even obtained the grey cloth that dry and comfortable feel also arranged when moistening and be rich in comfort with embodiment 6~9.
Comparative example 10 is compared with embodiment, and filoplume is long for the above filoplume number of 1mm drops sharply to 25, and what still obtain is the strong grey cloth of coarse hard sense, also has smooth sense when moistening, hardens, not ideal.The filoplume number of embodiment 11 is higher than the level of other Fasciated spun yarns, but significantly reduces than the ring spindle yarn of comparative example 9, and knitted fabric is soft and buffering effect is arranged, and anti-pilling is also good, is 4 grades.
In the comparative example 11, be shaped as the circle except making the fibre section, to have obtained knitted fabric with embodiment 8 same conditions.Even also have the distinctive smooth feel with smooth sense in circular section when drying, this only is different from the dry and comfortable feel that does not have smooth sense of the embodiment 8 that is made of the Y type and has the feel of soft buffering effect.
Among the embodiment 12, the looping of 55 numbers is carefully rolled up (rolling density 0.26cm than loose ground 3/ g) on Dyeing pipe, carrying out glycerol polymerization processing with the Ovshinsky circulator, the hydroscopicity of the glycerol polymerization of making processing spun yarn after the sodium salt processing is 4.0%.The quality of this spun yarn after glycerol polymerization processing is equivalent to 49 numbers.Except using 84T, 48 long filament circular section false twist yarns, mix fine in this spun yarn, to carry out long filament with embodiment 10 same conditions.This spun yarn surface is that 78/m, glycerol polymerization processing fiber composite rate are covered by 59% relative long filament by 29 numbers, degree of entwining.Carry out braiding, dyeing, the sodium salt processing same then, carry out fine finishining with embodiment 6~10.The standard aqueous rate of this grey cloth is 2.4%.Size changing rate after the washing, row, wale are respectively-2.9% ,-1.6%, and feel is good, and all not having smooth sense, anti-pilling when drying is moistening is 5 grades, and fast light fastness is 4 grades, has enough Practical Performances.
(embodiment 13~17, comparative example 12~17)
Below by embodiment the 3rd invention is described.
Assay method
(12) hot water shrinkage of raw cotton fiber: the hot water shrinkage's benchmark according to JIS L 1015 is measured.The boiling water treating time is 20 minutes, the curling tendentiousness fiber of high-melting-point type be 130 ℃ following 20 minutes.
(13) the filoplume number of spun yarn: use and apply the system F-index tester of island weaving society, try to achieve the above filoplume radical of long 1mm in every 10m yarn length.
(14) washing methods of grey cloth: carry out according to JIS L 0,217 103 method.
(15) retractility of grey cloth: textiles and knitted fabric carry out according to following assay method respectively: percentage elongation (slitting determination method) during (textiles) JIS L 1096 percentage elongation B methods (permanent load method: 1.47N 1 minute) (knitted fabric) JIS L 1018 permanent loads
(16) anti-pilling of grey cloth: measure according to JIS L 1076 A methods (ICI type testing machine, 5 hours).
(17) hand valuation of grey cloth: the touch of silk sheet is judged and estimated soft feeling, bulkiness according to 5 people.
◎: softness and bulkiness are good, and zero: flexibility, bulkiness are roughly good, *: there is not loftiness firmly, bad.
(18) ◎ is for very good in the overall merit hurdle, and zero for roughly good, * be bad.
(embodiment 13)
(manufacturing of the tendency of curling polyester fiber I)
As polyester (A), use polyethylene terephthalate (265 ℃ of inherent viscosity 0.607, fusing points), as polyester (B), what use is to be basic framework with polyethylene terephthalate, the 4mol% of acid composition is that M-phthalic acid, 2mol% are the copolyester (248 ℃ of inherent viscosity 0.637, fusing points) of 5-sulfoisophthalic acid sodium, with the spinning under the condition of 282 ℃ of polymer temperatures, spinning speed 1600m/ minute of compound spinning head.Condition with 155 ℃ of draft temperatures, stretching ratio 2.64, draw speed 140m/ minute stretches in stretching process afterwards, give curl after, make cut staple.The parallel type in the filled circles cross section that obtains curls and is inclined to polyester fiber I (fiber number 2.0dtex, the long 38mm of cut-out), and its hot water shrinkage (130 ℃, 20 minutes, contraction naturally) is 37.8%.
Field, village eddy current circulator MVS with field, village machinery (strain) manufacturing, with sliver grain (ス ラ イ バ-ゲ レ ソ) be set at 300, stretching ratio is 180 times, the curling tendency polyester fiber that will obtain under nozzle exit pressure 0.45MPa, spinning speed 400m/ minute condition spins, and obtains English cotton number and be 30 air interlacing spun yarn.The filoplume number (Y) of spun yarn is 225, and cross-section fibers radical (X) is 98, and Y/X is 2.3.
As tram, and the cotton yarn that is 30 numbers with English cotton number obtains the twill textiles as organizine with resulting spun yarn.To this textiles carry out destarch concise after, relaxed 20 minutes at 120 ℃ with liquid-flow dyeing machine, afterwards, dehydrate, then 170 ℃ carry out 30 second amorphous intermediate, use pressure dyeing machine, disperse fluorescent dye 130 ℃ of dyeing 30 minutes with 0.8%omf, back dehydration, drying are cleaned in reduction, carry out the cotton operation of singing afterwards, then 170 ℃ of extreme trace setting of carrying out for 30 seconds.Estimate behind the amorphous intermediate and the extreme trace setting after grey quality, retractility, feel.The evaluation result of resulting grey cloth is as shown in table 1.The filoplume number of this textiles is 160, does not all almost have the filoplume ball in amorphous intermediate, extreme trace setting, and the grey cloth percentage elongation is 34.2%, is the textiles with softness of certain dry feeling.
(comparative example 12)
Use the curling tendency polyester fiber that obtains by embodiment 13, under the condition of crin 140 grains, 36 times of stretching ratios, fine spining machine rotating speed 9000rpm, obtain ring spindle yarn (English 30 numbers, twist factor 3.2).Except use resulting ring spindle yarn as the tram and embodiment 13 similarly obtain textiles, and estimate behind the amorphous intermediate and the extreme trace setting after grey quality, retractility, feel, its evaluation result is as shown in table 1.Although the percentage elongation of grey cloth has 37.6%, produced the filoplume ball in the amorphous intermediate stage comprehensively, it is bad to show grey quality.Identical in the past, need by singe and the alkali decrement treatment remove the filoplume ball.
(comparative example 13)
(manufacturing of the tendency of curling polyester fiber II)
As polyester (A), use polyethylene terephthalate (inherent viscosity 0.607,265 ℃ of fusing points), as polyester (B), what use is to be 244.5 ℃ copolyester with the fusing point that the ratio of 50/50 (mass ratio) uses following two kinds of polyester to obtain, these two kinds of polyester are respectively, the 2.5mol% that with the polyethylene terephthalate is basic framework and diol component is a diethylene glycol (DEG), the 10mol% of acid composition is the copolyester (inherent viscosity 0.646) of M-phthalic acid, with be that 3.3% of basic framework and diol component is diethylene glycol (DEG) with the polyethylene terephthalate, 4.4% of acid composition is the copolyester (inherent viscosity 0.390) of 5-sulfoisophthalic acid sodium, uses compound spinning head 285 ℃ of polymer temperatures simultaneously, spinning under spinning speed 1600m/ minute the condition.Condition with 155 ℃ of draft temperatures, stretching ratio 2.64, draw speed 140m/ minute stretches in stretching process afterwards, give curl after, make cut staple.Obtain the curling tendency of parallel type polyester fiber (fiber number 1.0dtex, the long 38mm of cut-out).The hot water shrinkage of this fiber (130 ℃, 20 minutes, contraction naturally) is 36.5%.With the gained tendency polyester fiber air interlacing spun yarn that to obtain English cotton number be 30 numbers that curls.The filoplume number (Y) of this spun yarn is 599, and cross-section fibers radical (X) is 197, and Y/X is 3.0.Similarly handle with this spun yarn and embodiment 1,, and similarly estimate up to acquisition extreme trace setting textiles.Its result is as shown in table 4.
Table 4
Spun yarn (tram) The grey cloth characteristic Overall merit
The tendentiousness fiber curls English cotton number Spinning method Cross-section fibers radical X Filoplume radical Y ?Y/X The filoplume quality The pilling tendency level Feel Retractility percentage elongation %
Fiber number dtex
Embodiment 13 ??2.0 ??30 Looping ????98 ???225 ?2.3 ??○ ??4 Zero softness 34.2 ?○
Comparative example 12 ??2.0 ??30 The ring ingot ????98 ???1901 ?19.4 ??× ??1 The ◎ softness 37.6 ×
Comparative example 13 ??1.0 ??30 Looping ????197 ???599 ?3.0 ??△ ??1-2 Zero softness 36.1 ×
Comparative example 12 is situations of ring spindle yarn in the past, although the percentage elongation of textiles has 37.6%, has produced the filoplume ball in the amorphous intermediate stage comprehensively, and it is bad to show grey quality.Identical in the past, need by singe and the alkali decrement treatment remove the filoplume ball.The filoplume number of silk is many in the comparative example 13, although do not resemble the comparative example 12 manyly, in the amorphous intermediate operation, produced the filoplume ball, with regard to the quality after the extreme trace setting, still need by singe, alkali decrement or cropping remove the filoplume ball, compares second-rate with embodiment 13.
(embodiment 14)
(manufacturing of Y type cross-section fibers)
Use Y type cross-section fibers with spinning head with polyethylene terephthalate (inherent viscosity 0.633) spinning under the condition of 288 ℃ of polymer temperatures, spinning speed 1600m/ minute.Condition with 112 ℃ of draft temperatures, stretching ratio 2.32, draw speed 140m/ minute stretches in stretching process afterwards, give curl after, make cut staple.The boiling water shrinkage of the low shrinkage fibre in the Y type cross section that obtains (fiber number 1.3dtex, degree of profile 2.4, the long 38mm of cut-out) is 1.4%.
After carrying out carded mixed cotton with the low shrinkage fibre in the Y type cross section that obtains and above-mentioned curling tendency polyester fiber II, field, village eddy current circulator MVS with field, village machinery (strain) manufacturing, with the sliver grain be set at 200, stretching ratio is 160 times, under nozzle exit pressure 0.45MPa, spinning speed 400m/ minute condition, spin the Fasciated spun yarn that to obtain English cotton number be 40 numbers.The composite rate of curling tendency polyester fiber II in the spun yarn is 20%, and the composite rate of low shrinkage fibre is 80%.The filoplume number (Y) of spun yarn is 245, and cross-section fibers radical (X) is 120, and Y/X is 2.20.
S' the knitted fabric that obtains plain stitch under the condition of 325mm with resulting spun yarn at the feather length of 22 plane No., per 100 stringer numbers.This knitted fabric is carried out open-width, handle 80 times ℃ of lax thermal contractions of carrying out 10 minutes together with liquid-flow dyeing machine and scouring agent, afterwards, be warmed up to 110 ℃, the thermal contraction of carrying out 10 minutes is handled.Dehydrate afterwards, use り towel is arrangedAt 170 ℃ of amorphous intermediates that carried out for 40 seconds.Disperse fluorescent dyeing 20 minute at 130 ℃ with 0.8%omf with the high pressure liquid stream dyeing machine afterwards, reduction is cleaned, after dehydrating, with り towel being arranged 160 ℃ of extreme trace setting of carrying out for 60 seconds.The evaluation result of the grey cloth that obtains is as shown in table 5.
(comparative example 14)
Except spun yarn being become ring spindle yarn (identical) with the manufacture method of comparative example 13, obtain the ring spindle yarn with the same fibre structure of embodiment 14, identical with embodiment 14 by knitted fabric to the manufacture method of extreme trace setting grey cloth.Its evaluation result is as shown in table 5.
(embodiment 15)
The composite rate of curling tendency polyester fiber II among the embodiment 14 is become 30%, Y type cross-section fibers is become rayon fiber (fiber number 1.7dtex, the long 38mm of cut-out), in addition, identical to the manufacture method of extreme trace setting grey cloth with embodiment 14 by spun yarn.Its evaluation result is as shown in table 5.
(embodiment 16)
(manufacturing of the tendency of curling polyester fiber III)
As polyester (A), use polyethylene terephthalate (265 ℃ of inherent viscosity 0.627, fusing points), as polyester (B), what use is to be basic framework with polyethylene terephthalate, and copolymerization the copolyester (inherent viscosity 0.607, fusing point 162 ℃) of 30mol% as the neopentyl glycol of diol component, with the spinning under the condition of 282 ℃ of polymer temperatures, spinning speed 1700m/ minute of compound spinning head.With the draft temperature be that room temperature, stretching ratio are 2.55 afterwards in stretching process, draw speed is that 150m/ minute condition stretches, give curl after, make cut staple.The boiling water shrinkage of the curling tendency of the parallel type in the filled circles cross section that obtains polyester fiber III (fiber number 1.6dtex, the long 38mm of cut-out) is 53.2%.
Use resulting curling tendency polyester fiber III and above-mentioned Y type cross-section fibers, the mixed cotton mode is become the mixed mode of sliver (make the fiber core curling tendency of distribution polyester fiber III mostly, the core shell structure of Y type cross-section fibers and outer portion distributes mostly), and the composite rate 80% of Y type cross-section fibers is become 70%, in addition and embodiment 14 similarly handle and obtain Fasciated spun yarn, knitted fabric, open-width grey cloth.Then 70 ℃ lax after, dyeing temperature is set at 100 ℃, amorphous intermediate carries out at 120 ℃ at 130 ℃, extreme trace setting, similarly obtains extreme trace setting grey cloth with embodiment 14 in addition, estimates then.Evaluation result is as shown in table 5.
(embodiment 17)
The tendency of will curling polyester fiber III becomes the tendency polyester fiber II that curls, Y type cross-section fibers is become common filled circles cross section pet fiber (fiber number 2.0dtex), similarly obtain extreme trace setting grey cloth with embodiment 16 in addition, estimate then by Fasciated spun yarn.Evaluation result is as shown in table 5.
(comparative example 15)
It is that 15, cross-section fibers radical (X) are that 74, Y/X are 0.2 the considerably less Fasciated spun yarn of filoplume that Fasciated spun yarn is become filoplume number (Y), similarly obtains extreme trace setting grey cloth with embodiment 17 in addition, estimates then.Evaluation result is as shown in table 5.
(comparative example 16)
Except independent use as the low shrinkage fibre of common filled circles cross section pet fiber (fiber number 2.0dtex) and embodiment 14 similarly obtain extreme trace setting grey cloth by spun yarn, estimate then.Evaluation result is as shown in table 5.
(comparative example 17)
Among the embodiment 14, the fiber number of being inclined to polyester fiber II except curling becomes the 4.4dtex and embodiment 14 similarly obtains extreme trace setting grey cloth by spun yarn, estimates then.Evaluation result is as shown in table 5.
Table 5
The tendentiousness fiber curls Low shrinkage fibre (blend fibre) The spun yarn characteristic The grey cloth characteristic Overall merit
Fiber number (dtex) Composite rate % Fiber number (dtex) The cross section Degree of profile Composite rate % Blending method The mixed cotton method English cotton number Cross-section fibers radical X Filoplume radical Y ????Y/X Balling-up (level) Feel Order is paid g/m 2
Embodiment 14 ????1.0 ????20 ????1.3 The Y type ????2.4 ????80 Carded Looping ????40 ????120 ????245 ????2.0 ????4 Zero softness 149 ??○
Comparative example 14 ????1.0 ????20 ????1.3 The Y type ????2.4 ????80 Carded The ring ingot ????40 ????120 ????1380 ????11.5 ????1 Zero softness 152 ??×
Embodiment 15 ????1.0 ????30 Artificial silk, 1.7dtex ????70 Carded Looping ????40 ????105 ????203 ????1.9 ????4-5 Zero softness 140 ??○
Embodiment 16 ????1.6 ????30 ????1.3 The Y type ????2.4 ????70 Sliver # Looping ????40 ????107 ????235 ????2.2 ????4 The ◎ softness 146 ??○
Embodiment 17 ????2.0 ????30 ????2.0 Circle ????- ????70 Sliver # Looping ????40 ????74 ????155 ????2.1 ????4 Zero softness 161 ??○
Comparative example 15 ????2.0 ????30 ????2.0 Circle ????- ????70 Sliver # Looping ????40 ????74 ????15 ????0.2 ????5 * hard 139 ??×
Comparative example 16 ????- ????- ????2.0 Circle ????- ????100 Carded Looping ????40 ????74 ????170 ????2.3 ????5 * hard 124 ??×
Comparative example 17 ????3.0 ????20 ????1.3 The Y type ????2.4 ????80 Carded Looping ????40 ????101 ????215 ????2.1 ????1-2 Zero softness 148 ??×
# core/shell (tendentiousness fiber/low shrinkage fibre curls) shape
Embodiment 14 filoplume numbers are less, have soft and dry and comfortable feel and enough retractilities (expansion and contraction during permanent load is more than 30%), compare with the comparative example 17 that does not contain the tendentiousness fiber that curls, bulk and increased by 20.2% order and pay, anti-pilling is good, is 4 grades.With embodiment 2 same fibre structure is arranged and use the comparative example 14 of ring spindle yarn in the past, although bulk and soft hand feeling is arranged, produced the filoplume ball comprehensively, quality is bad and anti-pilling is bad, is 1 grade.
The anti-pilling of embodiment 15 is better, is the 4-5 level, and the loftiness of appropriateness is arranged, and has reached the soft hand feeling that is similar to ring spindle yarn, and retractility, restorative all very abundant has reached and is suitable for the level that underwear is used.Embodiment 16 and 17 has been owing to used the fiber core sliver of core shell structure of more curling tendentiousness fiber that distributed, thereby almost do not have the filoplume ball on the knitted fabric, is rich in loftiness, and softness and anti-pilling are good, are 4 grades.The embodiment 16 that convergent force is especially strong has more loftiness and flexibility than embodiment 17, has become retractility and restorative good fabric.
Comparative example 15 and embodiment 17 are same structures, and the filoplume number is less, but it is strong to entwine, and can not bring into play the feature of the tendentiousness fiber that curls and the air interlacing spun yarn difference that is obtained by single fiber in the past is little, and feel is harder, and retractility does not almost have yet.Although comparative example 16 anti-pillings are good, quality is thin, Boardy Feeling, compares second-rate with embodiment.In addition,, in curling operation, the embodiment of knitted fabric produced a lot of filoplume balls although comparative example 17 filoplume numbers are few, although lack than comparative example 14, and poor quality and do not have practicality.This may be because the tendentiousness fiber that curls is distributed on the spun yarn surface more than embodiment.
(embodiment 18~22, comparative example 18~21)
The present invention is described by the following examples.
Assay method
(19) boiling water shrinkage of raw cotton fiber: the hot water shrinkage's benchmark according to JIS L 1015 is measured.The boiling water treating time is 20 minutes.
(20) thermal stress of raw cotton fiber: using the thermal stress deformation determinator EMA/SS100 of Seiko electronics industry (strain) system, is to measure under 10 ℃/minute the condition at initial load 0.059cN/dtex, programming rate.
(21) the filoplume number of spun yarn: use and apply the system F-index tester of island weaving society, try to achieve the above filoplume radical of long 1mm in every 10m yarn length.
(22) anti-pilling of grey cloth: measure according to JIS L 1076 A methods (ICI type testing machine, 5 hours).
(23) hand valuation of grey cloth: the touch of silk sheet is judged and estimated soft feeling, bulkiness according to 5 people.
◎: softness and bulkiness are good, and zero: flexibility, bulkiness are roughly good, *: there is not loftiness firmly, bad.
(24) ◎ is for very good in the overall merit hurdle, and zero for roughly good, * be bad.
(embodiment 18)
Use common fiber spinning head, the 10mol% that will be basic framework and sour composition with the polyethylene terephthalate is copolyester (inherent viscosity 0.623) spinning (containing titanium oxide 0.35 quality %) under the condition of 282 ℃ of polymer temperatures, spinning speed 1100m/ minute of M-phthalic acid.With the draft temperature be that room temperature, stretching ratio are 3.75 afterwards in stretching process, draw speed is that 140m/ minute condition stretches, give curl after, make cut staple.The boiling water shrinkage of the high-shrinkage fibre in the filled circles cross section that obtains (fiber number 1.6dtex, the long 38mm of cut-out) is 24.8%, and the maximum thermal stress value is 0.09cN/dtex (148 ℃).
On the other hand, use common fiber spinning head, with polyethylene terephthalate (inherent viscosity 0.633) spinning (containing titanium oxide 0.35 quality %) under the condition of 288 ℃ of polymer temperatures, spinning speed 1600m/ minute.Condition with 112 ℃ of draft temperatures, stretching ratio 2.34, draw speed 140m/ minute stretches in stretching process afterwards, give curl after, make cut staple.The boiling water shrinkage of the low shrinkage fibre in the filled circles cross section that obtains (fiber number 1.6dtex, the long 38mm of cut-out) is 1.2%.
After the low shrinkage fibre in the high-shrinkage fibre in resulting filled circles cross section and filled circles cross section carried out carded mixed cotton, field, village eddy current circulator MVS with field, village machinery (strain) manufacturing, with the sliver grain be set at 300, stretching ratio is made as 180 times, under nozzle exit pressure 0.45MPa, spinning speed 400m/ minute condition, spin, obtain English cotton number and be 30 Fasciated spun yarn.The composite rate of the high-shrinkage fibre in the spun yarn is 20%, and the composite rate of low shrinkage fibre is 80%.The filoplume number (K) of spun yarn is 292, and cross-section fibers radical (A) is 123, and K/A is 2.37.
Use resulting spun yarn, obtain the knitted fabric of the feather length 325mm of the plain stitch of 28 plane No. and per 100 stringer numbers.This knitted fabric is carried out open-width, together after 80 times ℃ of lax thermal contractions of carrying out 10 minutes are handled, be warmed up to 110 ℃ with liquid-flow dyeing machine and scouring agent, the thermal contraction of carrying out 10 minutes is handled.Dehydrate afterwards, with り towel being arranged at 170 ℃ of amorphous intermediates that carried out for 40 seconds.Use 0.8%omf to disperse fluorescent dye 130 ℃ of dyeing 20 minutes with the high pressure liquid stream dyeing machine afterwards, reduction is cleaned, after dehydrating, with り towel being arranged 160 ℃ of extreme trace setting of carrying out for 60 seconds.
The evaluation result of resulting grey cloth is as shown in table 6.The anti-pilling of grey cloth is the 4-5 level, and feel is roughly good.
(embodiment 19)
Use hollow section fiber spinning head, the spinning (containing titanium oxide 0.35 quality %) under the condition of 282 ℃ of polymer temperatures, spinning speed 1500m/ minute of copolyester (inherent viscosity 0.625) that will be identical with embodiment 18.With the draft temperature be that room temperature, stretching ratio are 2.68 afterwards in stretching process, draw speed is that 140m/ minute condition stretches, give curl after, make cut staple.The boiling water shrinkage of the high-shrinkage fibre of the hollow section that obtains (fiber number 2.2dtex, hollow rate 20%, the long 38mm of cut-out) is 39.1%, and the maximum thermal stress value is 0.18cN/dtex (105 ℃).
High-shrinkage fibre among the embodiment 18 is become resulting hollow circular section high-shrinkage fibre, low shrinkage fibre is become rayon fiber (fiber number 1.7dtex, the long 38mm of cut-out), similarly obtain grey cloth with embodiment 18 in addition, estimate then.Evaluation result is as shown in table 6.
(embodiment 20)
High-shrinkage fibre among the embodiment 18 is become the hollow circular section high-shrinkage fibre identical with embodiment 19, and the filled circles cross section low shrinkage fibre of fiber number 1.6dtex is become the filled circles cross section low shrinkage fibre (boiling water shrinkage 1.2%) of fiber number 0.8dtex, similarly obtain grey cloth with embodiment 18 in addition, estimate then.Evaluation result is as shown in table 6.
(embodiment 21)
Among the embodiment 20, the carded mixed cotton mode of mixed cotton method is become the mixed mode of sliver (make the fiber core high-shrinkage fibre that distributes mostly, the core shell structure of low shrinkage fibre and outer portion distributes mostly), and the composite rate 80% of filled circles cross section low shrinkage fibre is become 70%, similarly obtain grey cloth with embodiment 20 in addition, estimate then.Evaluation result is as shown in table 6.
(embodiment 22)
Use Y type cross-section fibers spinning head, the spinning (containing titanium oxide 0.35 quality %) under the condition of 282 ℃ of polymer temperatures, spinning speed 1400m/ minute of copolyester (inherent viscosity 0.625) that will be identical with embodiment 18.With the draft temperature be that room temperature, stretching ratio are 2.32 afterwards in stretching process, draw speed is that 140m/ minute condition stretches, give curl after, make cut staple.The boiling water shrinkage of the high-shrinkage fibre in the Y type cross section that obtains (fiber number 1.6dtex, degree of profile 2.2, the long 38mm of cut-out) is 36.4%, and the maximum thermal stress value is 0.17cN/dtex (109 ℃).In addition, use Y type cross-section fibers spinning head, the spinning (containing titanium oxide 0.35 quality %) under the condition of 288 ℃ of polymer temperatures, spinning speed 1600m/ minute of polyethylene terephthalate (inherent viscosity 0.633) that will be identical with embodiment 18.Condition with 112 ℃ of draft temperatures, stretching ratio 2.34, draw speed 140m/ minute stretches in stretching process afterwards, give curl after, make cut staple.The boiling water shrinkage of the low shrinkage fibre in the Y type cross section that obtains (fiber number 1.1dtex, degree of profile 2.4, the long 38mm of cut-out) is 1.3%.
After the low shrinkage fibre in the high-shrinkage fibre in resulting Y type cross section and Y type cross section carried out carded mixed cotton, field, village eddy current circulator MVS with field, village machinery (strain) manufacturing, with the sliver grain be set at 200, stretching ratio is 160 times, under nozzle exit pressure 0.45MPa, spinning speed 400m/ minute condition, spin the Fasciated spun yarn that to obtain English cotton number be 40 numbers.The composite rate of the high-shrinkage fibre in the spun yarn is 20%, and the composite rate of low shrinkage fibre is 80%.The filoplume number (K) of spun yarn is 289, and cross-section fibers radical (A) is 126, and K/A is 2.31.
Similarly obtain knitted fabric with resulting spun yarn and embodiment 18, carry out then from the extreme trace setting of dyeing.
The evaluation result of resulting grey cloth is as shown in table 6.The anti-pilling of grey cloth is 4 grades, and the flexibility and the bulkiness of feel are good, is judged as very good.
(embodiment 23)
Among the embodiment 22, the carded mixed cotton mode of mixed cotton method is become the mixed mode of sliver (make the fiber core high-shrinkage fibre that distributes mostly, the core shell structure of low shrinkage fibre and outer portion distributes mostly), and the composite rate 80% of filled circles cross section low shrinkage fibre is become 70%, similarly obtain grey cloth with embodiment 22 in addition, estimate then.Evaluation result is as shown in table 6.
(comparative example 18)
Among the embodiment 18, high-shrinkage fibre become boiling water shrinkage is 12.9%, the maximum thermal stress value is the filled circles cross section high-shrinkage fibre of 0.05cN/dtex (160 ℃), similarly obtain grey cloth with embodiment 18 in addition, estimate then.Evaluation result is as shown in table 6.
(comparative example 19)
Among the embodiment 18, filled circles cross section high-shrinkage fibre is become hollow circular section high-shrinkage fibre (fiber number 2.2dtex, hollow rate 20%), and Fasciated spun yarn is become ring spindle yarn (crin to 140 grains under the condition of 36 times of stretching ratios, fine spining machine rotating speed 9000rpm carries out ring spinning), similarly obtain grey cloth with embodiment 18 in addition, estimate then.Evaluation result is as shown in table 6.
(comparative example 20)
In the comparative example 19, ring spindle yarn is become Fasciated spun yarn, similarly obtain grey cloth with comparative example 19 in addition, estimate then.Evaluation result is as shown in table 6.
(comparative example 21)
In the comparative example 19, except independent use fiber number as the filled circles cross section low shrinkage fibre of 0.8dtex and embodiment 18 similarly obtain grey cloth, estimate then.Evaluation result is as shown in table 6.
Table 6
The raw cotton structure Spun yarn Grey cloth (flat pin) Overall merit
High-shrinkage fibre Low shrinkage fibre Mixed cotton method/spinning method English cotton number Cross-section fibers radical A Actual measurement filoplume radical K ????K/A Feel The balling-up level
Fiber number dtex Cross sectional shape Boiling water shrinkage % Thermal stress cN/dtex Composite rate % Fiber number dtex Cross sectional shape Composite rate %
Embodiment 18 ????1.6 Circle ????24.8 ????0.09 ????20 ????1.6 Circle ????80 Carded/looping ????30 ????123 ????292 ????2.37 Zero softness, bulk ??4-5 ??○
Embodiment 19 ????2.2 Hollow ????39.1 ????0.18 ????20 ????1.7 Artificial silk ????80 Carded/looping ????30 ????110 ????268 ????2.44 The ◎ softness, bulk ??4 ??◎
Embodiment 20 ????2.2 Hollow ????39.1 ????0.18 ????20 ????0.8 Circle ????80 Carded/looping ????30 ????215 ????563 ????2.62 The ◎ softness, bulk ??4 ??◎
Embodiment 21 ????2.2 Hollow ????39.1 ????0.18 ????30 ????0.8 Circle ????70 Core shell sliver/looping ????30 ????199 ????537 ????2.70 The ◎ softness, bulk ??4 ??◎
Embodiment 22 ????1.6 The Y type ????36.4 ????0.17 ????20 ????1.1 The Y type ????80 Carded/looping ????40 ????126 ????289 ????2.31 The ◎ softness, bulk ??4 ??◎
Embodiment 23 ????1.6 The Y type ????36.4 ????0.17 ????30 ????1.1 The Y type ????70 Core shell sliver/looping ????40 ????122 ????291 ????2.39 The ◎ softness, bulk ??4 ??◎
Comparative example 18 ????1.6 Circle ????12.9 ????0.05 ????20 ????1.6 Circle ????80 Carded/looping ????30 ????123 ????289 ????2.35 * hard, thin ??5 ??×
Comparative example 19 ????2.2 Hollow ????39.1 ????0.18 ????20 ????1.6 Circle ????80 Carded/ring ingot ????30 ????116 ????1288 ????11.1 The ◎ softness, bulk ??2 ??×
Comparative example 20 ????2.2 Hollow ????39.1 ????0.18 ????20 ????1.6 Circle ????80 Carded/looping ????30 ????116 ????21 ????0.18 * hard, thin ??5 ??×
Comparative example 21 ????- ????- ????- ????- ????- ????0.8 Circle ????100 Carded/looping ????40 ????184 ????207 ????1.13 * hard, thin ??5 ??×
As mentioned above, the filoplume number of the spun yarn of embodiment 18~23 is all less, and the anti-pilling of grey cloth shows more than 4 grades, and is soft and bulkiness is good.Shrink rate variance between the fiber of embodiment 18 and compare lessly with other embodiment, but feel would pass in a crowd, and in the comparative example 18, the thermal stress of high-shrinkage fibre a little less than, shrinks insufficiently, have the skilled hand who is similar to Fasciated spun yarn in the past and feel.Though comparative example 19 has soft and bulk feel, anti-pilling is bad.On the other hand, the feel of embodiment 19~22 approaches ring spindle yarn, has the soft hand feeling that resiliency is arranged of the strong Fasciated spun yarn of coarse hard sense different from the past.Especially embodiment 5,6, owing to be Y fibre section shape, thereby this tendentiousness is stronger, and embodiment 23 has made the grey cloth of the strong soft feel of loftiness.
The grey cloth of comparative example 20 shrinks big, is the grey cloth of the few skilled hand's sense of loftiness.Its reason may be to compare with embodiment, is the spun yarn that the filoplume number is less, the degree of entwining is strong of spun yarn, thereby the contraction of high-shrinkage fibre hindered, and stress relaxation takes place between fiber, can not show loftiness.Although used superfine fibre in the comparative example 21, the level and smooth and quality of the feel of grey cloth is thin, with shown bulk of embodiment and to be rich in the feel of soft feeling different fully.By resembling the blended ratio of making the embodiment with high-shrinkage fibre, limit the filoplume number of spun yarn, can access and have soft feel that is similar to ring spindle yarn and grey cloth with anti-pilling.
Utilize possibility on the industry
According to the 1st invention of the present invention, can obtain a kind of cloth and silk that contains polyester staple fiber with low cost, even if this cloth and silk does not use the full-dull fiber, even thin quality from grey cloth also rare penetrating sense, and rate of ultraviolet shield is high, water-absorbing fast-drying and colour rendering are good, even and do not use modified polyester fiber also to have good anti-pilling and soft feel concurrently. Can be listed below as its suitable purposes: the clothes of shirt, blouse, knitting housecoat, golf sweater, sweater, jacket, pants, skirt, swimsuit, underwear, uniform etc. and cap, umbrella, scarf, towel, bag, curtain, pillowcase, cushion cover (Side ground), coverlet, quilt cover, diaper etc.
According to the 2nd invention, owing to do not use and have hygroscopic 2 composition composite spun fibers, and use is through single composition polyester fiber of glycerol polymerization processing, and make the air interlacing spun yarn, thereby hygroscopicity is high, and the shortcomings such as the dimensional instability in the time of can improving moistening that in the past glycerol polymerization processing fiber has and slippery feeling can obtain to have simultaneously the polyester staple fibers dimensional fabric of good anti-pilling. In addition, by using the polyester fiber of specific sectional shape, can improve the hardness of air interlacing spun yarn, can obtain to have the fabric of soft feel, its result, can in the situation of the characteristic of not damaging polyester, obtain to have polyester staple fibers dimensional fabric sufficient hygroscopicity and anti-pilling, soft, the 2nd invention be except can being used for because balling-up makes the fabric that underwear that the purposes of polyester staple fiber is restricted and coat use, and also is widely used in indoor, the auxiliary material, bedding of towel, shield, mat, coverlet etc. etc.
According to the 3rd invention, a kind of spun fabric can be provided, it is that to use with polyester be that short fiber is as the spun fabric of the Fasciated spun yarn of main body, and only need the simple process by hot water treatment etc., not only can obtain anti-pilling and also can possess simultaneously soft bulkiness, and have good retractility. Therefore the present invention does not need Spandex silk Bai Shi yarn (naked silk) to enroll device, and this device for the retractility of the grey cloth that obtains flat pin of Bai Shi and so on and restorative be indispensable. Therefore usefulness knitting machine in the past just can easily be made and have anti-pilling and bulkiness, and is rich in flexibility, flexible restorative fabric. Be best suited for athletic undergarment sweater, sweat shirt sweater, knitting housecoat, sweater, jacket, pants, skirt, uniform, shield, towel, scarf, abdominal belt, socks, cushion cover etc. as its purposes.
According to the 4th invention, a kind of spun fabric can be provided, it is to be that short fiber is as the spun fabric of main body take polyester, and do not need to use the modified polyester fiber that in the past is used for obtaining anti-pilling, add rare manufacturing fault in man-hour in spinning, spinning and then dyeing, only need just can obtain anti-pilling by the simple process of hot water treatment etc., can also possess simultaneously soft bulkiness, this spun fabric uses Fasciated spun yarn, but still has good bulkiness, touches the feel of the good softness of sense. Be best suited for athletic undergarment sweater, sweat shirt sweater, knitting housecoat, sweater, jacket, pants, skirt, uniform, shield, towel, scarf, abdominal belt, socks, cushion cover etc. as purposes.

Claims (21)

1. fabric that contains polyester fiber, it is characterized in that, this fabric constitutes by containing the air interlacing spun yarn that titanium oxide content is lower than the polyester fiber of 1.0 quality %, and the anti-pilling in the JIS L 1076A of the Japanese Industrial Standards method is more than 3 grades, rate of ultraviolet shield is more than 84%, and visible light transmissivity is below 40%.
2. the described manufacture method that contains the fabric of polyester fiber of claim 1, it is characterized in that, this fabric uses the formation silk of air interlacing spun yarn as fabric, described air interlacing spun yarn contains titanium oxide content and is lower than 1.0 quality %, and be present in 3 above juts on the fibre circumference along fibre length direction continued presence, and the degree of profile of fibre section be circumscribed circle to the ratio of inscribed circle is that high degree of profile polyester fiber more than 1.8 or hollow rate are the hollow polyester fibre more than 8%, and length was to be lower than 350 more than 30 at the filoplume number more than the 1mm during every 10m yarn of this spun yarn was long, and the filoplume number of length more than 3mm is lower than 15.
3. a dacron fabric is characterized in that, this fabric constitutes by containing the air interlacing spun yarn that useful hydrophilic compounds carried out the polyester staple fiber of glycerol polymerization processing, and the standard aqueous rate is more than 1.5%, and anti-pilling is more than 3 grades.
4. dacron fabric as claimed in claim 3 is characterized in that, according to the size changing rate that JIS L 1018 F-1 methods are measured, knitted fabric is-8%~0%, and textiles is in ± 3%.
5. the manufacture method of claim 3 or 4 described dacron fabrics, it is characterized in that, use following spun yarn to make fabric in this method, this spun yarn is to contain the air interlacing spun yarn that useful hydrophilic compounds has carried out the polyester staple fiber of glycerol polymerization processing, and during the every 10m yarn of this spun yarn is long, length is lower than 3mm more than 1mm filoplume number is 30~350, and the filoplume number of length more than 3mm is lower than 15.
6. the manufacture method of each described dacron fabric in the claim 3~5 is characterized in that, uses the jet mixed filament of air interlacing polyester spun yarn or air interlacing spun yarn and multifilament to make fabric.
7. the manufacture method of each described dacron fabric in the claim 3~6, it is characterized in that, the fiber number of polyester staple fiber is at least more than the 1.3dtex, and is present in 3 above juts on the circumference of fibre section along fibre length direction continued presence, and its degree of profile is more than 1.8.
8. a flexible bulkiness spun fabric is characterized in that, this fabric is that the air interlacing spun yarn of the parallel type crimped staple of 1.0~6.0dtex constitutes by the fiber number that contains 10 quality % at least, and anti-pilling is more than 3 grades.
9. flexible bulkiness spun fabric as claimed in claim 8 is characterized in that, the boiling water shrinkage (according to JIS L 1015) that the air interlacing spun yarn contains at least 10 quality % is the low-shrinkage short fiber below 4%.
10. flexible as claimed in claim 8 or 9 bulkiness spun fabric, it is characterized in that, crimped staple or/and low-shrinkage short fiber be, hollow rate be more than 5% hollow section or the fibre section periphery on the degree of profile of an above jut is arranged is that the polyester of the odd-shaped cross section more than 1.8 is a staple fibre.
11. the manufacture method of a flexible bulkiness spun fabric, it is characterized in that, use that to contain 10 quality % fiber numbers at least be that the air interlacing spun yarn that the parallel type of 0.8~4.0dtex the relation between the cross-section fibers radical (Y) of the filoplume number (X) of tendentiousness staple fibre and this spun yarn and this spun yarn of curling satisfies following (1) formula is made fabric, make this fabric carry out thermal contraction then
0.4Y≤X≤2.5Y (1) formula
X: the radical of the filoplume among every 10m more than the length 1mm
Y: the cross-section fibers radical of spun yarn
The cross-section fibers radical of spun yarn: 5315 * 1.11/ (English cotton numbers * filamentary dtex)
12. the manufacture method of flexible bulkiness spun fabric as claimed in claim 11 is characterized in that, the boiling water shrinkage (according to JIS L 1015) of the tendentiousness staple fibre that curls is more than 20%.
13. the manufacture method of flexible bulkiness spun fabric as claimed in claim 12, it is characterized in that, it is low-shrinkage short fiber 90~10 quality % below 4% that the air interlacing spun yarn contains boiling water shrinkage (according to JIS L 1015), and boiling water shrinkage (according to JIS L 1015) is curling tendentiousness staple fibre 10~90 quality % more than 20%.
14. manufacture method as each described flexible bulkiness spun fabric in the claim 11~13, it is characterized in that, curl the tendentiousness staple fibre or/and low-shrinkage short fiber is a hollow rate be more than 8% hollow section or the fibre section periphery on the degree of profile of an above jut is arranged is that the polyester of the odd-shaped cross section more than 1.8 is a staple fibre.
15. bulkiness spun fabric, it is characterized in that, this fabric is that the air interlacing spun yarn of low-shrinkage short fiber below 4% and copolyester staple fibre constitutes by containing boiling water shrinkage (according to JIS L 1015), and be to contain the fabric that this air interlacing spun yarn of the copolyester staple fibre of 10~60 quality % forms through thermal contraction, anti-pilling is more than 3 grades.
16. bulkiness spun fabric as claimed in claim 15, it is characterized in that, the copolyester staple fibre is, hollow rate be have on hollow section more than 8% or the fibre section periphery degree of profile of an above jut be more than 1.8 odd-shaped cross section and boiling water shrinkage (according to JIS L 1015) be the high shrinkage short fiber more than 20%.
17., it is characterized in that low-shrinkage short fiber is that the fibre section is shaped as hollow or degree of profile is the polyester staple fiber of the abnormity more than 1.8 as claim 15 or 16 described bulkiness spun fabrics.
18., it is characterized in that the 3rd composition of copolyester staple fibre is a M-phthalic acid as each described bulkiness spun fabric in the claim 15~17.
19. the manufacture method of a bulkiness spun fabric; It is characterized in that; Make fabric with following air interlacing spun yarn; Then make this fabric carry out thermal contraction; Wherein this air interlacing spun yarn is that to contain boiling water shrinkage (according to JIS L 1015) be that low-shrinkage short fiber 90~40 quality %, boiling water shrinkage (according to JIS L 1015) below 4% is the air interlacing spun yarn of high shrinkage short fiber 10~60 quality % more than 20%; And the relation between the filoplume number (K) of this spun yarn and the cross-section fibers radical (A) of this spun yarn satisfies following (1) formula
0.4≤K≤3A (1) formula
K: length is the radical of the above filoplume of 1mm among every 10m
A: the cross-section fibers radical of spun yarn
The cross-section fibers radical of spun yarn: 5315 * 1.11/ (English cotton numbers * filamentary dtex)
20. the manufacture method of bulkiness spun fabric as claimed in claim 19, it is characterized in that, high shrinkage short fiber is, has hollow rate and be the degree of profile that more than one jut is arranged on hollow section more than 8% or the fibre section periphery and be the copolyester staple fibre that odd-shaped cross section more than 1.8 and fiber number are 1.0~4.0dtex.
21. the manufacture method as claim 19 or 20 described bulkiness spun fabrics is characterized in that, high shrinkage short fiber is that the maximum thermal stress under 60~160 ℃ is the above copolyester staple fibre of 0.08cN/dtex.
CNA038190168A 2002-08-07 2003-07-30 Woven or knit fabric and process for producing the same Pending CN1675421A (en)

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JP2002230389A JP4143904B2 (en) 2002-08-07 2002-08-07 Polyester fiber-containing fabric and method for producing the same
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JP333339/2002 2002-11-18
JP348090/2002 2002-11-29
JP348089/2002 2002-11-29
JP2002348089A JP4196260B2 (en) 2002-11-29 2002-11-29 Bulky short fiber knitted fabric and method for producing the same
JP2002348090A JP4196261B2 (en) 2002-11-29 2002-11-29 Stretch bulky short fiber knitted fabric and method for producing the same
JP353927/2002 2002-12-05
JP2002353927A JP4427708B2 (en) 2002-11-18 2002-12-05 Polyester fiber knitted fabric and method for producing the same

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CN107338555B (en) * 2017-07-21 2021-03-23 何炽斌 Production method of soft and bulky yarn fabric
CN107338555A (en) * 2017-07-21 2017-11-10 何炽斌 A kind of production method for the yarn fabric that softness is bulk
CN111065774A (en) * 2017-08-30 2020-04-24 丝芭博株式会社 High-density knitted fabric and method for producing high-density knitted fabric
TWI671328B (en) * 2018-07-30 2019-09-11 遠東新世紀股份有限公司 Cationic dyeable polyester and preparation method thereof
CN108823720A (en) * 2018-08-10 2018-11-16 罗莱生活科技股份有限公司 A kind of yarn and its production method containing three-dimensional structure
CN108823720B (en) * 2018-08-10 2021-09-28 罗莱生活科技股份有限公司 Yarn containing three-dimensional structure and production method thereof
CN110872737A (en) * 2018-08-29 2020-03-10 潍坊迅纺新材料科技有限公司 Low-shrinkage polyester cotton fabric and preparation method thereof
CN109914002A (en) * 2019-04-03 2019-06-21 平湖市三禾染整有限公司 A kind of yarn pre-treating technology
CN109914002B (en) * 2019-04-03 2022-01-04 平湖市三禾染整股份有限公司 Yarn pretreatment process
CN110055671A (en) * 2019-05-22 2019-07-26 青岛雪达集团有限公司 The super soft fluffy preserving moisture and protecting skin knitted fabric of one kind and its method for weaving
CN112048796A (en) * 2019-06-06 2020-12-08 东丽纤维研究所(中国)有限公司 Vortex spun yarn and application thereof
CN112267186A (en) * 2020-10-15 2021-01-26 福建赛隆科技有限公司 Super-soft composite yarn and application thereof

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