JP2003171885A - Method for producing dyed fabric and dyed fabric - Google Patents

Abstract

<P>PROBLEM TO BE SOLVED: To provide a dyed fabric excellent in flexibility and stretchability. <P>SOLUTION: A softener is used in dying a fabric containing a polyester-based conjugate fiber of a side by side type or an eccentric sheath core type comprising a polyethylene terephthalate as a main component and a polytrimethylene terephthalate as another constituent. <P>COPYRIGHT: (C)2003,JPO

Description

Detailed Description of the Invention

[0001]

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION 1. Field of the Invention The present invention relates to a method for producing a dyed fabric containing a polyester-based composite fiber and a dyed fabric.

More specifically, the present invention relates to a method for producing a dyed fabric which is flexible and has excellent stretchability, and a dyed fabric.

[0003]

2. Description of the Related Art Conventionally, various methods have been adopted for imparting excellent stretchability to dyed fabrics. For example, there is a method of using polyurethane fibers having excellent elasticity for the yarns constituting the dyed fabric. However, since this polyurethane fiber has a hard texture as a property peculiar to polyurethane, there is a problem that the texture of the dyed fabric is deteriorated and the drape property of the dyed fabric is degraded.

Further, it is also practiced to impart stretchability to a dyed fabric by using a false twisted yarn as a yarn constituting the dyed fabric. The false twisted yarn inherently has a torque due to twisting and untwisting, and this torque imparts stretchability to the yarn, but the stretchability is inferior to the polyurethane fiber.

Further, this torque not only contributes to the stretchability, but in the case of the woven fabric, it is easily transferred to the texture of the woven fabric surface. Therefore, although the woven fabric made of the false twisted yarn has good stretchability, There is a problem in that wrinkles are likely to occur on the surface.

In order to avoid the problem that the wrinkles occur, the woven fabric is subjected to a heat treatment to reduce the torque in the false twisted yarn, but in this case, the wrinkles rarely occur. However, there was a problem that the elasticity was reduced.

[0007]

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION An object of the present invention is to provide a dyed fabric which is flexible and has excellent stretchability, and a method for producing the same.

[0008]

The method for producing a dyed fabric according to the present invention has the following means for solving the above problems.

That is, a fabric containing a polyester composite fiber which is a side-by-side type or an eccentric sheath / core type in which one of the constituents has polyethylene terephthalate as a main component and the other has a polytrimethylene terephthalate as a main constituent. A method for producing a dyed fabric, which comprises using a softening agent when dyeing.

[0010]

BEST MODE FOR CARRYING OUT THE INVENTION The present invention will be described in detail below.
In the present invention, a side-by-side type or eccentric sheath / core type polyester-based composite fiber in which one of the constituents is mainly composed of polyethylene terephthalate and the other constituent is mainly composed of polytrimethylene terephthalate is used.

Since the polyester-based composite fibers are laminated with polymers having different intrinsic viscosities, stress concentrates on the high-viscosity side during spinning and drawing, so that the internal strain differs between the two components. Therefore, the high-viscosity side is largely shrunk due to the difference in elastic recovery rate after stretching and the difference in heat shrinkage in the heat treatment step of the cloth, and distortion occurs in the single fiber to take a three-dimensional coil crimp form. It can be said that the diameter of the three-dimensional coil and the number of coils per unit fiber length are determined by the shrinkage difference (including the elastic recovery rate difference) between the high shrinkage component and the low shrinkage component. Is small, and the number of coils per unit fiber length is large.

Coil crimps required as a stretchable material have a small coil diameter, a large number of coils per unit fiber length (excellent extension characteristics and good appearance), and good coil settling resistance (stretchability). The amount of coil fatigue is small according to the number of times, and the expansion and contraction retention is excellent. Furthermore, the expansion and contraction characteristics of the coil are dominated by the expansion and contraction characteristics of the high contraction component with the low contraction component as the fulcrum. The polymer used for is required to have high extensibility and recoverability. Then, the inventors of the present invention have conducted diligent studies to satisfy the above properties without impairing the properties of polyester. As a result, the low shrinkage component contains polyethylene terephthalate as a main component and the high shrinkage component contains polytrimethylene terephthalate as a main component. We have found that polyester-based composite fibers are used.

Polytrimethylene terephthalate fibers are
While it has the same mechanical and chemical properties as those of typical polyester fibers such as polyethylene terephthalate fiber and polybutylene terephthalate fiber, it has excellent elongation recovery. This is because the methylene chain of the alkylene glycol part in the crystal structure of polytrimethylene terephthalate has a gou-shu-gauche structure (the molecular chain bends at 90 degrees), and further, the binding due to the interaction (stacking, parallel) between benzene rings. It is thought that the molecular chain is easily extended and recovered by the rotation of the methylene group because of its low density and high flexibility.

The polyethylene terephthalate, which is a constituent component of the polyester composite fiber used in the present invention, is preferably a polymer component having an ethylene terephthalate unit as a main repeating unit. That is, as the polyethylene terephthalate in the present invention, a polyester obtained by using terephthalic acid as a main acid component and ethylene glycol as a main glycol component is preferable. However, it is also preferable that the content of other copolymerizable components capable of forming an ester bond is 20 mol% or less,
Those contained in a proportion of 10 mol% or less are more preferable.
Examples of the copolymerizable compound include sulfonic acid, sodium sulfonic acid, sulfuric acid, sulfuric acid ester, diethyl sulfate, ethyl sulfate, aliphatic sulfonic acid, ethanesulfonic acid, chlorobenzenesulfonic acid, alicyclic sulfonic acid, isophthalic acid, sebacic acid. , Dicarboxylic acids such as azelaic acid, dimer acid, adipic acid, oxalic acid, and decanedicarboxylic acid; dicarboxylic acids such as p-hydroxybenzoic acid and hydroxycarboxylic acids such as ε-caprolactone; triethylene glycol, polyethylene glycol, propanediol, Diols such as butanediol, pentanediol, hydroquinone and bisphenol A are preferably used. If necessary, titanium dioxide as a matting agent, silica or alumina fine particles as a lubricant, hindered phenol derivative as an antioxidant, and a coloring pigment may be added.

The polytrimethylene terephthalate, which is another constituent of the polyester-based conjugate fiber used in the present invention, is preferably a polymer component having a trimethylene terephthalate unit as a main repeating unit. That is, as the polytrimethylene terephthalate in the present invention, a polyester obtained by using terephthalic acid as a main acid component and 1,3 propanediol as a main glycol component is preferable. However, it is also preferable that the content of the other copolymerizable component capable of forming an ester bond is 20 mol% or less, and that of 10 mol% or less is more preferable. As the copolymerizable compound, for example, dicarboxylic acids such as isophthalic acid, succinic acid, cyclohexanedicarboxylic acid, adipic acid, dimer acid, sebacic acid, 5-sodium sulfoisophthalic acid, ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, butanediol,
Diols such as neopentyl glycol, cyclohexanedimethanol, polyethylene glycol and polypropylene glycol are preferably used. If necessary, titanium dioxide as a matting agent, silica or alumina fine particles as a lubricant, hindered phenol derivative as an antioxidant, and a coloring pigment may be added. In the present invention, the intrinsic viscosity of polytrimethylene terephthalate is preferably 1.0 or more, from the viewpoint of expressing a coiled crimp and obtaining desired stretchability when forming a fabric such as a knitted fabric. It is more preferably at least 2.

The cross-sectional shape of the single fiber of the polyester composite fiber used in the present invention is a side-by-side type or an eccentric sheath / core type. If the cross-sectional shape is not the side-by-side type or the eccentric sheath / core type, there is a problem that when the yarn is heated, the coiled crimp does not develop and the yarn cannot be stretched.

The weight ratio of polyethylene terephthalate / polytrimethylene terephthalate in the polyester composite fiber is in the range of 30/70 or more and 70/30 or less from the viewpoint of spinnability and dimensional homogeneity of the coil in the fiber length direction. It is preferable.

The fineness of the polyester composite fiber is preferably in the range of 20 decitex or more and 1000 decitex or less depending on the purpose of use. Further, the single yarn fineness of the polyester-based composite fiber is 0.4 decitex or more depending on the application.
A range of 5 decitex or less is preferable.

The fabric containing the polyester composite fiber used in the present invention is a warp knitted material such as tricot or Russell,
It may be a knitted fabric such as a circular knit or a weft knit, or a woven fabric.

The cloth containing the polyester-based conjugate fiber used in the present invention is preferably composed of the polyester-based conjugate fiber alone, but natural fibers such as cotton and hemp, regenerated cellulose such as viscose rayon and cupra. fiber,
Polyamide fiber such as nylon, polyester fiber, acrylic fiber, polyvinyl alcohol fiber, polyvinyl chloride fiber, polyvinylidene chloride fiber, polypropylene fiber,
It may be twisted, knitted or woven with other fibers such as polyurethane elastic fiber.

In the present invention, it is important to use a softening agent when dyeing a fabric such as a knitted woven fabric containing the polyester-based conjugate fiber. If a softening agent is not used at the time of dyeing, there is a problem that excellent flexibility cannot be imparted to the obtained fabric.

Dyeing is preferably carried out by the main steps of finishing steps such as scouring, presetting, intermediate setting and the like, finishing steps such as dyeing step and finishing set, and supporting steps such as toning. In the dyeing process, it is roughly divided into batch type and continuous type, as a batch type, Wins dyeing machine, paddle dyeing machine, jet dyeing machine, Jigger dyeing machine, pad roll dyeing machine, beam dyeing machine is preferably used, continuous As an expression
A pad steam dyeing machine and a thermosol dyeing machine are preferably used.

The dye used is preferably a disperse dye.
The softening agent is preferably used in any of the main steps, and is preferably used in at least the dyeing step.

That is, the softening agent may be used in the dyeing step and finishing step, or may be used only in the finishing step.

The softening agent used in the dyeing step is preferably selected in consideration of the compatibility with the dye and the dyeing auxiliary agent. For example, a lanolin derivative, a polyoxyethylene type nonionic activator, Sulfated anion activator, polyamide polymer derivative, carboxylic acid anion activator, phosphate ester type anion activator, acrylic derivative, polyamine derivative, lanolin derivative, imidazoline derivative, polyglycol ether derivative, quaternary cation derivative, etc. Is preferred.

As the softening agent used in the finishing step, the same softening agent used in the dyeing step is preferably used.

The softening agent used only in the finishing step is preferably silicone resin, urethane resin, polyethylene emulsion, wax emulsion or the like.

The amount of the softening agent used is appropriately selected in consideration of the target expansion / contraction characteristics and texture, but is usually 0.5-.
A range of 5% owf is preferable.

Although the dyeing temperature is appropriately selected depending on the dyeing concentration, it is preferably in the range of 98 ° C to 130 ° C.

[0030]

EXAMPLES The present invention will be described in detail below with reference to examples.

The intrinsic viscosity (η) in the examples was determined by the following method.

However, the present invention is not limited to these examples. [Intrinsic Viscosity (η)] 0.01 g of a sample was dissolved in 10 ml of orthochlorophenol and measured at a temperature of 25 ° C. using an Ostwald viscometer.

Example 1 Polytrimethylene terephthalate having an intrinsic viscosity of 1.31 and polyethylene terephthalate having an intrinsic viscosity of 0.52 were separately melted and spun at a spinning temperature of 260 ° C. from a 24-hole composite spinneret. The trimethylene terephthalate was discharged at a weight ratio of 50/50 and taken up at a spinning speed of 1400 m / min to obtain an undrawn yarn of 165 dtex24 filaments. Further, using a hot roll-hot plate drawing machine, hot roll temperature 70 ° C., hot plate temperature 145 ° C., draw ratio 3.
Drawing was performed at 0 to obtain a side-by-side type polyester-based composite fiber (drawn yarn) of 56 dtex24 filament. Then, using the polyester-based composite fiber, a circular knitting machine was used to knit a 28-gauge smooth circular knitted fabric. Then, using a spread-type continuous relaxer, the mixture was relaxed and scoured at 80 ° C, and was intermediately set at 180 ° C using a pin tenter. Then, using a jet dyeing machine, Dianix Na
vy Blue ER-FS (disperse dye manufactured by DYSTAR) 3% owf, Ionette RAP-250 (leveling agent manufactured by Sanyo Kasei Co., Ltd.) 0.5 g / L, Textport D-334
(Nikaka Chemical's bath softener) 1 g / L and a dyeing bath whose pH was adjusted to 5 with acetic acid and sodium acetate was prepared. After dyeing in the dyeing bath at 120 ° C. for 40 minutes, hydrosulfite 1 g / L, soda ash 1 g / L, amirazine D (Daiichi Kogyo Co., Ltd. surfactant) 1 g / L in a reducing washing bath at 80 ° C.
For 20 minutes. Then, using a pin tenter, 150
Finish set at ℃. The resulting dyed product was flexible and had excellent stretchability.

[Example 2] Polytrimethylene terephthalate having an intrinsic viscosity of 1.31 and polyethylene terephthalate having an intrinsic viscosity of 0.52 were separately melted, and the weight of polyethylene terephthalate / polytrimethylene terephthalate was obtained in the same manner as in Example. 165 with a ratio of 50/50
A side-by-side type polyester-based composite fiber (drawn yarn) of dtex72 filament was obtained. Then, the polyester-based composite fiber was used as a weft, and 2/60 wool was used as a warp to obtain a woven fabric having a twill structure having a warp density of 93 yarns / inch and a weft yarn density of 66 yarns / inch. The woven fabric was relaxed and scoured at 95 ° C using a spread-like continuous relaxer, and was intermediately set at 180 ° C using a pin tenter. Then, using a jet dyeing machine, Kayakalan Black B
GL (Nippon Kayaku Co., Ltd. acid dye) 4.0% owf, Newbon WS (Nika Kagaku Co., Ltd. leveling agent) 0.5% owf, Texport D-334 (Nikaka Co., Ltd. bath softener) 1 g /
A dyeing bath consisting of L and ammonium sulfate 0.5 g / L was prepared. It was dyed in the dyeing bath at 98 ° C. for 60 minutes, and then treated in a treatment bath of 3% owf of Sunlife TN (Nikaka Chemical Co., Ltd.) at 80 ° C. for 20 minutes. After that, finish setting was performed at 150 ° C. using a pin tenter. The resulting dyed product was flexible and had excellent stretchability.

[Example 3] Polytrimethylene terephthalate having an intrinsic viscosity of 1.31 and polyethylene terephthalate having an intrinsic viscosity of 0.52 were separately melted, and the weight of polyethylene terephthalate / polytrimethylene terephthalate was obtained in the same manner as in Example. 56d with a ratio of 50/50
A side-by-side type polyester-based composite fiber (drawn yarn) of tex24 filament was obtained. Next, a warp knitted fabric having a tulle structure of 48 gauge was obtained using the polyester-based conjugate fiber. The knitted fabric was relaxed and scoured at 80 ° C using a jet dyeing machine, and was intermediately set at 170 ° C using a pin tenter. Then, using a jet dyeing machine, Dianix
Navy Blue ER-FS (Disperse dye manufactured by DYSTAR) 3% owf, Ionette RAP-250 (leveling agent manufactured by Sanyo Kasei Co., Ltd.) 0.5 g / L, Textport D-33
4 (Nikaka Chemical's bath softener) 1 g / L and a dyeing bath whose pH was adjusted to 5 with acetic acid and sodium acetate were prepared.
After dyeing in the dyeing bath at 120 ° C. for 40 minutes, hydrosulfite 1 g / L, soda ash 1 g / L, amiradin D
(Daiichi Kogyo Co., Ltd. surfactant) 8 with a 1 g / L reducing cleaning bath
It was treated at 0 ° C. for 20 minutes. Then, using a pin tenter 1
Finished and set at 50 ° C. The resulting dyed product was flexible and had excellent stretchability.

Example 4 The same circular knit fabric as in Example 1 was used, relaxed and scoured at 80 ° C., and intermediately set at 180 ° C. using a pin tenter. Then, using a jet dyeing machine, DianixNavy Blue ER-FS
(DYSTAR disperse dye) 3% owf, Ionette RAP-250 (Sanyo Kasei Co., Ltd. leveling agent) 0.5 g / L,
Texport D-334 (Nikaka Chemical Softener in bath) 1
A dyebath having a pH of 5 adjusted with g / L and acetic acid and sodium acetate was prepared. After dyeing in the dyeing bath at 120 ° C. for 40 minutes, hydrosulfite 1 g / L, soda ash 1 g
/ L, Amirazine D (Daiichi Kogyo Co., Ltd. surfactant) 1 g /
Treated with L reducing wash bath at 80 ° C. for 20 minutes. Next, Nikka Silicon AM-202 (soft finishing agent manufactured by Nichika Chemical Co., Ltd.)
A treatment liquid of 10 g / L was prepared, padded with the treatment liquid, and then finish set at 150 ° C. using a pin tenter. The resulting dyed product was flexible and had excellent stretchability.

[Comparative Example 1] Using the same circular knitted fabric as in Example 1, a spread-like continuous relaxer was used to relax and scouring at 80 ° C, and intermediate setting was performed at 180 ° C using a pin tenter. Then, using a jet dyeing machine, Dianix Na
vy Blue ER-FS (DYSTAR disperse dye) 3% owf, Ionette RAP-250 (Sanyo Chemical Co., Ltd. leveling agent) 0.5 g / L, and a dyeing bath adjusted to pH 5 with acetic acid and sodium acetate is prepared. did. 1 in the dyeing bath
After dyeing at 20 ℃ for 40 minutes, hydrosulfite 1g
/ L, 1 g / L of soda ash, and 1 g / L of Amirazine D (Daiichi Kogyo Co., Ltd. surfactant) were treated at 80 ° C. for 20 minutes. After that, finish setting was performed at 150 ° C. using a pin tenter. The resulting dyed product had a hard texture and poor stretchability.

Comparative Example 2 Using the same fabric as in Example 2,
Using a spread-type continuous relaxer, the mixture was relaxed and scoured at 95 ° C, and was intermediately set at 180 ° C using a pin tenter. Then, using a jet dyeing machine, Kayakalan
Black BGL (Nippon Kayaku Co. acid dye) 4.0%
owf, Newbon WS (leveling agent manufactured by Nichika Chemical Co., Ltd.) 0.5
% Owf and 0.5 g / L of ammonium sulfate were prepared. Dyeing at 98 ° C. for 60 minutes in the dyeing bath, and then Sunlife TN (fixing agent manufactured by Nika Kagaku Co.) 3%
It was treated with a wf treatment bath at 80 ° C. for 20 minutes. After that, finish setting was performed at 150 ° C. using a pin tenter. The resulting dyed product had a hard texture and poor stretchability.

[Comparative Example 3] Using the same warp knitted fabric as in Example 3, relax scouring was carried out at 80 ° C using a jet dyeing machine, and intermediate setting was carried out at 170 ° C using a pin tenter. Then, using a jet dyeing machine, Dianix Navy Bl
ue ER-FS (Disperse dye manufactured by DYSTAR) 3% o
wf, 0.5 g / L of Ionette RAP-250 (a leveling agent manufactured by Sanyo Chemical Co., Ltd.), and a dyeing bath whose pH was adjusted to 5 with acetic acid and sodium acetate were prepared. After dyeing for 40 minutes at 120 ° C. in the dyeing bath, hydrosulfite 1 g / L, soda ash 1 g / L, amirazine D (Daiichi Kogyo Co., Ltd. surfactant) 1 g / L reducing washing bath at 80 ° C. Processed for minutes.
After that, finish setting was performed at 150 ° C. using a pin tenter. The resulting dyed product had a hard texture and poor stretchability.

[0040]

According to the present invention, a flexible and highly stretchable dyed fabric containing a side-by-side type polyester composite fiber of polyethylene terephthalate and polytrimethylene terephthalate can be obtained.

─────────────────────────────────────────────────── ─── Continuation of front page (51) Int.Cl. ⁷ Identification code FI theme code (reference) D06P 1/52 D06P 1/52 1/613 1/613 1/62 1/62 1/645 1/645 1 / 653 1/653 1/667 1/667 F Term (reference) 4H057 AA01 AA02 CA26 CB08 CB16 CB18 CB21 CB23 CB27 CC02 DA01 DA17 DA31 GA07 4L002 AA07 AB02 AB05 BA01 CB02 DA04 FA01 4L033 AA07 AB05 AB06 AC02 BA14 BA17 BA19 BA19 BA55 CA55 4L048 AA21 AA22 AA28 AA30 AA50 AA55 AB07 AC11 CA04 CA12 DA02 DA03

Claims (5)

[Claims] 1. A fabric containing a polyester composite fiber, one of the constituents of which has polyethylene terephthalate as a main component, and the other of which has polytrimethylene terephthalate as a main component, which is a side-by-side type or an eccentric sheath / core type. A method for producing a dyed fabric, which comprises using a softening agent when dyeing. 2. The method for producing a dyed fabric according to claim 1, wherein the weight ratio of polyethylene terephthalate / polybutylene terephthalate in the polyester-based conjugate fiber is 30/70 to 70/30. 3. The softening agent is a lanolin derivative, a polyoxyethylene-based nonionic activator, a sulfated anion activator, a polyamide polymer derivative, a carboxylic acid type anion activator, a phosphate ester type anion activator, or an acryl. A derivative, a polyamine derivative, a lanolin derivative, an imidazoline derivative, a polyglycol ether derivative, a quaternary cation derivative, a silicone-based resin, a urethane-based resin, a polyethylene emulsion, and a wax emulsion. The method for producing a dyed fabric according to 1 or 2. 4. The method for producing a dyed fabric according to claim 1, wherein the fabric is a knitted fabric. 5. A dyed fabric manufactured by the manufacturing method according to any one of claims 1 to 4.