JP3441205B2 - Stretch blended yarn - Google Patents

Description

Description: BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION 1. Field of the Invention The present invention relates to a stretchable mixed yarn having a core-sheath structure in which an ultrafine filament is located at a sheath portion and an elastic filament is located at a core portion. touch,
The present invention relates to a mixed fiber having a swelling and capable of providing a fabric having no coloring unevenness. [0002] It is well known that a fabric using a microfiber has a soft surface touch, and its application is wide. In these applications, stretchability is often required in order to further utilize the soft hand. Many fibers for fabrics having such a soft surface touch and stretchability have been proposed so far. Polyurethane-based elastic fibers are often used to impart stretchability to fabrics. Polyurethane-based elastic fibers exhibit excellent properties in elastic recovery, but are inferior in hot water resistance and are mixed with nylon fibers. Focus on acid dyes with
Dyeing is performed at around the boiling temperature, and it is difficult to mix with polyester fibers that perform high-temperature and high-pressure dyeing. On the other hand, a polyether / ester block copolymer elastic fiber has also been used as an elastic fiber, and a method of mixing with a polyester fiber such as polyethylene terephthalate and dyeing with a disperse dye has been proposed. . However, when dyeing a combination of polyurethane-based elastic fiber and nylon fiber with an acid dye, the dyeing amount of the acid dye on nylon is large, and conversely, the dyeing amount on polyurethane-based elastic fiber is small. For this reason, dyeing unevenness often occurs, and when the dyed fabric is elongated, the aesthetics are often significantly impaired. On the other hand,
Ter-ester block copolymer elastic fibers have better wet heat resistance than polyurethane-based elastic fibers, so that high-temperature and high-pressure dyeing is possible when mixed with polyester fibers. However, when such a mixture of the polyether / ester block copolymer elastic fiber and the polyester fiber is dyed with a disperse dye, the elastic fiber is easier to dye with respect to the disperse dye than the polyester fiber but has a wet fastness. However, there is a problem in that the dyeing density that can withstand practical use is extremely low, and dyeing of an extremely light color is possible, but dyeing of an intermediate color or a dark color is difficult. [0004] Accordingly, an object of the present invention is to solve the problems of the prior art and to provide a mixed fiber yarn having excellent aesthetics, clarity, and color fastness, and having a soft surface touch and stretchability. is there. According to the present invention, a polyester elastic filament (A) having an elastic recovery rate of 80% or more at a strain of 20% and a washing fastness of tertiary or higher is provided at the core, and a single yarn fineness is 2.0 denier. -A multi-filament yarn having an inelastic multifilament (B) or less in the sheath portion, wherein the difference in boiling water shrinkage between the filament (A) and the filament (B) is 5% or more. It is a mixed fiber. First, a polyester-based elastic filament (A) [hereinafter sometimes referred to simply as an elastic filament (A)]. ] Will be described. The elastic recovery rate of the elastic filament (A) needs to be 80% or more at 20% strain. If the elastic recovery is less than 80%, it is difficult to impart stretchability to the mixed yarn. The upper limit of the elastic recovery is not particularly limited, but is preferably less than 95%. If the elastic recovery is too high, the elastic filament (A) is stretched by receiving various tensions during the production process of the mixed fiber, and the multifilament (B) in the final mixed fiber is loose. This may cause sagging and may cause troubles in a later process such as weaving and knitting. As an example of the polyester constituting the polyester-based elastic filament (A) having such an elastic recovery, there can be mentioned a polyester in which at least 80 mol% of the constituent units are composed of propylene terephthalate units. The third component may be copolymerized in the polyester at a ratio of less than 20 mol%, and specifically, ethylene glycol, 1,4-butanediol, pentamethylene glycol, hexamethylene glycol, etc. Aliphatic diols such as ethylene glycol and polyethylene glycol; aromatic dicarboxylic acids such as isophthalic acid, 5-sodium sulfoisophthalic acid, 1,4-naphthalenedicarboxylic acid and 1,5-naphthalenedicarboxylic acid; An alicyclic diol such as cyclohexanedimethanol can be mentioned. The limiting viscosity of the polyester is from 0.7 to 0.7 as measured at 30 ° C. in a solvent of phenol / tetrachloroethane (equal weight ratio).
It is preferably 1.2. The elastic filament (A) may be either a multifilament or a monofilament, and occupies substantially the center of the mixed yarn, and the periphery thereof is surrounded by an inelastic multifilament. In addition, the elastic filament (A)
The fineness is preferably in the range of 20 to 150 deniers in consideration of the feeling of the woven or knitted fabric. Next, an inelastic multifilament [hereinafter sometimes referred to as a filament (B). ] Will be described. The single yarn fiber of the filament (B) is 2.0 denier.
Must be less than or equal to If the single-filament fineness exceeds 2.0 denier, it is not possible to obtain a fabric having a soft touch surface characteristic. The preferred single yarn fineness is 1.5 denier or less. Such fibers are non-split filaments having a single-fiber fineness of 2.0 denier or less, or split-type composite filaments having a single-fiber fineness of 2.0 denier or less after weaving and knitting. Any filament may be used. As the non-split filaments, polyesters, particularly polyesters in which at least 80 mol% of the constituent units are ethylene terephthalate units, are preferred. The polyester may be copolymerized with a third component at a ratio of less than 20%, and specifically, propylene glycol, 1,4-butanediol, pentamethylene glycol, hexamethylene glycol. Aliphatic diols such as ethylene glycol and polyethylene glycol; aromatic dicarboxylic acids such as isophthalic acid, 5-sodium sulfoisophthalic acid, 1,4-naphthalenedicarboxylic acid and 1,5-naphthalenedicarboxylic acid; 1,4-cyclohexane And alicyclic diols such as dimethanol. As the splittable composite filament, of the two types of polymers constituting the filament, only one component remains after dissolution or removal, or two types of polymers are split by chemical or physical treatment. Either type may be used, in which both components remain. As the former, the remaining component is preferably a polyester or a polyamide, and the component to be dissolved and removed is preferably an alkali-soluble polyester. As the latter, both components are preferably a combination of polyester, polyamide, and polyolefin.
Combinations of polyester and polyamide are preferred. Here, the polyester is preferably a polyester in which at least 80 mol% of the structural units are ethylene terephthalate units, and propylene glycol,
1,4-butanediol, pentamethylene glycol,
Aliphatic diols such as hexamethylene glycol and polyethylene glycol; aromatic dicarboxylic acids such as isophthalic acid, 1,4-naphthalenedicarboxylic acid and 1,5-naphthalenedicarboxylic acid; 1,4-cyclohexanedimetano −
And an alicyclic diol such as toluene. As the polyamide, nylon 6 and nylon 66 are preferred. Polyolefins include polyethylene and polypropylene, and polypropylene is preferred from the viewpoint of composite spinnability. The alkali-soluble polyester is not particularly limited as long as it is a fiber-forming polyester which has a different solubility from the polyester which is one component constituting the split type composite filament and the polymer constituting the elastic filament. Not something. Preferable polyesters which are easily soluble in alkali include known polyesters such as 5-sulfoisophthalic acid or a metal salt thereof, and polyethylene terephthalate obtained by copolymerizing polyethylene glycol. [0013] The boiling water shrinkage of the filament (B) must be smaller than the boiling water shrinkage of the elastic filament (A) by 5% or more, especially 7% or more. If the difference in boiling water shrinkage is less than 5%, the swelling in the heat treatment after weaving and knitting is not sufficient. The mixed fiber of the present invention can be dyed with a disperse dye or a cationic dye when it is composed only of polyester, and in the case of a mixed fiber containing split composite filaments of polyester-polyamide. Can be dyed with a disperse dye or a mixed dye of a disperse dye and an acid dye. As the dyeing conditions, ordinary dyeing conditions can be used, but when dyeing with a disperse dye and an acid dye, two dyeing baths are used, and there are some problems in processability. In the mixed fiber yarn dyed in this manner or in a fabric obtained by weaving and knitting the mixed fiber yarn, the washing fastness (corresponding to wet fastness) of the elastic filament (A) is 3 or higher. Even if it is dyed with a dye, there is no great difference in the dyeing property with the filament (B), and there are few stains,
The aesthetics when the mixed fiber or the fabric obtained by weaving and knitting the mixed fiber is not impaired. The mixed fiber of the present invention can be manufactured by a known manufacturing method, for example, a spinning fiber mixing method, a fiber mixing method at the time of drawing, a fiber drawing method of a drawn yarn, and the like. The present invention will be described below in detail with reference to examples, but the present invention is not limited to these examples. In addition, each measured value in an Example is a value measured by the following method. Boiling water shrinkage rate (%) of filament 90 % wound around a yarn wound 90 times, and 0.05 mm
The length L ₀ of the scab under a load of g / denier is measured. Then, in boiling water under a load of 0.0005 g / denier, 3
Soak for 0 minutes. It performed naturally dried at room temperature to remove the immersion After loading, followed by 0.05 g / denier - Measure the length L ₁ of the skein under load Le, was calculated boiling water shrinkage according to the following equation. Boiling water shrinkage rate (%) = [(L ₀ −L ₁ ) / L ₀ ] × 100 filament elastic recovery rate (%) Constant speed elongation type tensile tester (Instron 1 ) with automatic recording device
122, manufactured by Instron Co., Ltd.)
/ With the initial load of denier applied, it is attached to the grip at a distance of 20 cm, stretched to 20% at a pulling speed of 10 cm / min, then immediately unloaded at the same speed, left for 2 minutes, and again at the same speed Stretch to a certain degree with. The residual elongation was measured from the recorded load-elongation curve (shown in FIG. 1) and calculated by the following equation. Elastic recovery _{(%) = [(L 2} -L 3) / L 2] × 100 ( however, L ₂ is elongation at 20% elongation, L ₃ represents a growth residual strain.) [0018] filament Wash fastness and light fastness
Degree (grade) Filament dyed under the following dyeing conditions is JIS L
0844 (washing fastness) and JIS L 0842
(Light fastness). Dyeing conditions: Disperse dye: Sumikaron Red S-BL 3% owf Acetic acid 0.5 cc / liter Bath ratio 50: 1 Temperature 130 ° C. Time 40 minutes Fabric evaluation standard The esthetics are determined by the degree of flicker when the fabric is stretched. It was done. Stretching property, swelling property and soft touch property were all judged by 10 panelists. ○: 8 out of 10 persons judged good, Δ: 5 out of 10 persons
X: Three out of 10 persons judged good, and the evaluation was made based on three criteria. Example 1 As an elastic filament (A), intrinsic viscosity [η] _A =
0.85 polypropylene terephthalate (hereinafter referred to as PP
T) is spun at 260 ° C., and further stretched 2.5 times by a stretching machine to obtain a 75 denier / 24 filament (round cross section) having a boiling water shrinkage of 12.6% and an elastic recovery of 90%. ) Was obtained. As the filament (B), polyethylene terephthalate (hereinafter abbreviated as PET) having an intrinsic viscosity [η] _B = 0.65 is used.
After spinning at 0 ° C. and winding at a take-up speed of 1000 m / min, the film is stretched 3.5 times with a stretching machine, and the boiling water shrinkage is 5.2.
% Of a 50 filament / 48 filament (round section) was obtained. Then, pneumatic pressure 5Kg / c
m ² , the overfeed rate of the elastic filament (A) is 5%, and the overfeed rate of the filament (B) is 17
%, A mixed fiber was obtained using a conventional air-mixed fiber nozzle (Heslein Taslan nozzle). Using the obtained mixed fiber, a warp density of 180
A twill woven fabric having a density of 90 pieces / inch and 3/2 was prepared. Thereafter, ordinary processing such as scouring, heat setting, alkali weight reduction treatment and the like were performed. This woven fabric had stretchability, and the surface touch was soft and flexible. The aesthetics were also good. Example 2 As the filament (B), the boiling water shrinkage was 5.5%,
Example 1 except that a PET filament with a triangular cross section was used
In the same manner as in the above, a mixed fiber was obtained, and a twill woven fabric was prepared using the mixed fiber. This woven fabric had stretchability, and the surface touch was soft and flexible. The aesthetics were also good. Example 3 As the filament (B), the boiling water shrinkage was 4.9%.
A mixed fiber was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1 except that a multi-layer laminated split type composite filament (flat cross section) of PET and nylon 6 was used, and a twill fabric was prepared using the mixed fiber. The woven fabric was immersed in a 5% aqueous benzyl alcohol emulsion for 5 minutes and washed with water at 50 ° C. The filament (B) was divided into PET and nylon 6, and its single yarn fineness was 0.3 denier. Further, the obtained woven fabric had stretchability, and the surface touch was soft and flexible. Also, despite the inclusion of nylon 6 filaments, the aesthetics obtained by disperse dye dyeing were good. Example 4 A take-up speed of 1500 m was used as the elastic filament (A).
Blended in the same manner as in Example 1 except that an undrawn yarn wound at a rate of 1 / min is drawn 1.5 times and a drawn PPT monofilament (boiling water shrinkage 13.5%, elastic recovery 80%) is used. A yarn was obtained, and a twill fabric was prepared using the mixed fiber.
This woven fabric had stretchability, and the surface touch was soft and flexible. The aesthetics were also good. Example 5 As the elastic filament (A), a boiling water shrinkage rate of 12.5% and an elastic recovery rate of 84% obtained by a spinning direct drawing method were used.
Filament (B) using a PPT filament
A mixed fiber was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1, except that a PET filament wound at a take-up speed of 5000 m / min and having a boiling water shrinkage of 5.5% was used. A woven fabric was created. This woven fabric had stretchability, and the surface touch was soft and flexible. Also,
The aesthetics were also good. Comparative Example 1 A mixed fiber was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1 except that the single fiber fineness of the filament (B) was set to 3.1 denier. A twill fabric was created. Since the fineness of the yarn constituting the sheath portion of the mixed yarn was large, the surface touch of the woven fabric was not soft, and the woven fabric was lumpy. Comparative Example 2 PET having [η] _A = 0.65 was spun at 290 ° C. as an elastic filament (A), and further stretched 3.5 times with a stretching machine, and the boiling water shrinkage was 12.8%. , Elastic recovery rate 42%
A mixed fiber was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1 except that a multifilament of 75 denier / 24 filaments (round section) was used, and a twill fabric was prepared using the mixed fiber.
Since the elastic recovery rate of the elastic filament constituting the core portion of the mixed yarn was small, the fabric was poor in stretchability. Comparative Example 3 As the filament (B), PE having [η] _B = 0.65 was used.
T was spun at 290 ° C., further stretched 3.2 times with a stretching machine, and a mixed fiber was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1 except that a PET multifilament having a boiling water shrinkage of 10.8% was used. A twill fabric was prepared using the mixed fiber. Since the difference in the boiling water shrinkage ratio between the filaments constituting the mixed yarn was small, the swelling as a woven fabric was small and the hand feeling was poor. Comparative Example 4 Example 1 was repeated except that a polybutylene terephthalate-based elastomer (Hytrel 4047, manufactured by DuPont) having an elastic recovery rate of 85% and a boiling water shrinkage rate of 13% was used as the elastic filament (A). Similarly, a mixed fiber was obtained, and a twill woven fabric was prepared using the mixed fiber. Since the washing fastness to the disperse dye was poor, the dyeability was poor, the fabric was fuzzy, and the aesthetics were poor. [Table 1] According to the present invention, it is possible to provide a mixed fiber capable of obtaining a fabric excellent in appearance, aesthetics, stretchability and surface touch.

BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS FIG. 1 is a view showing a load-elongation curve for calculating an elastic recovery rate of a filament.

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Claims (1)

(57) [Claim 1] A polyester-based elastic filament (A) having an elastic recovery rate of 80% or more at 20% strain and a washing fastness of tertiary or higher is simply attached to the core. An inelastic multifilament (B) having a yarn fineness of 2.0 denier or less is a mixed fiber having a sheath portion, and a difference in shrinkage in boiling water between the filament (A) and the filament (B) is 5% or more. A mixed fiber yarn characterized by the following.