JPS623270B2 - - Google Patents

Description

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION The present invention relates to a method for producing a novel woven or knitted article made of polyester multifilament yarn and having a unique silk-like texture. Traditionally, woven and knitted fabrics using polyester multifilament yarn have succeeded in imparting a certain degree of silk-like luster and feel by controlling the cross-sectional shape of the yarn and the type and amount of degreasing agent. It has not yet achieved a unique texture. To solve this problem, a method has been widely implemented that takes advantage of the fact that polyester polymers are susceptible to hydrolysis when treated with alkali, and treats woven and knitted fabrics using polyester multifilament yarn with alkali to improve their softness and drape properties. However, even with this method, the texture is still not as good as silk. Looking at the change in the yarn cross section when a woven or knitted fabric using polyester multifilament yarn is treated with alkali, the filaments present on the outside of the multifilament yarn bundle are well hydrolyzed and the yarn cross-sectional area decreases. Compared to silk woven and knitted fabrics, there is less space between the filaments in the center of the yarn bundle, which reduces the decrease in yarn cross-sectional area due to the filaments present at the center of the yarn bundle. This corresponds to the lack of This tendency increases as the number of filaments and number of twists of the multifilament yarn increases, and is particularly noticeable when the number of filaments is about 30 or more and in a field called highly twisted yarn. In addition, in recent years, polyester filaments have been copolymerized or mixed with modifiers in order to give them antistatic properties, easy dyeing properties, difficult twisting properties, etc. However, when polyester is modified, On the other hand, alkaline treatment has the disadvantage that the yarn strength in the woven or knitted fabric is significantly reduced, impairing its practicality. In addition, when treating woven or knitted fabrics using ordinary polyester filament yarn with alkali, the alkali treatment takes a long time, about 1 hour, and is generally carried out by the batch method, which has poor productivity. There is a drawback that it is difficult to maintain a constant alkali treatment time until a specified texture is obtained. In addition, in Special Publication No. 50-40169, dyeability,
A method for producing a polyester core-sheath composite yarn in which a thin layered sheath is made of polyester copolymerized or blended with a modifier in order to improve light resistance, flame resistance, etc. is disclosed, but the purpose of the invention is to improve light resistance, flame resistance, etc. This is achieved by using the polyester as it is placed on the yarn surface, and woven and knitted fabrics using yarn obtained by this method are similar to woven and knitted fabrics using conventional polyester multifilament yarn. It is paper-like and has a drawback that it does not come close to the unique texture of silk. Furthermore, even if it is possible to remove the sheath component by treating the woven or knitted fabric with alkali, the cross-sectional area ratio of the core component to the sheath component in the yarn is 5 to 200, which is a small amount of the sheath component and is in the form of a thin layer. The disadvantage is that the effect is small. An object of the present invention is to provide a method for easily and efficiently manufacturing a filament woven or knitted fabric with a silk-like texture that has excellent drapability, volume, and softness, and which overcomes the drawbacks of the prior art described above. It is. That is, the object of the present invention described above is that the core component is 90%
When producing a core-sheath composite multifilament yarn in which the polyester is composed of ethylene terephthalate or more in mole%, and the sheath component is an ethylene terephthalate copolyester polyester containing 2 to 10 mole% of ethylene 5-sodium sulfoisophthalate units. , the intrinsic viscosity of the core component (in orthochlorophenol at 25℃) is 0.55 to 0.80, and the intrinsic viscosity of the sheath component is
A woven or knitted fabric using a core-sheath composite multifilament yarn having a trilobal cross section and 30 or more filaments, which is made of polyester that is 0.60 or less and 0.10 or more smaller than the core component, is treated with at least alkali. This is achieved by a method for producing a silk-like filament woven or knitted material, which is characterized by dissolving and removing a portion of the sheath component. FIG. 1 shows an example of filament yarn constituting a core-sheath composite multifilament yarn that can be preferably used in the present invention. FIG. 1 is a cross-sectional view of a trilobal cross-section core-sheath composite yarn. 1 indicates the core component and 2 indicates the sheath component.
The cross-sectional shape of the core-sheath composite yarn and the shape of the core component and sheath component in the yarn cross-section are such that the shape of the core component needs to be trilobal in order to impart silk-like luster, and the shape of the sheath component is The thickness of the sheath component is preferably substantially uniform so that it can be quickly and uniformly dissolved and removed during alkali treatment. In addition, the term "the thickness of the sheath component is substantially uniform" means that the thickness of the sheath component at any location on the yarn cross section is within T±0.25T with respect to the average thickness T of the sheath component. refers to In the present invention, the core component of such a core-sheath composite multifilament yarn is a polyester containing 90 mol% or more of ethylene terephthalate, and the sheath component is 2 to 2.
An ethylene terephthalate copolyester containing 10 mol% of ethylene 5-sodium sulfoisophthalate units is arranged. It is possible to introduce known hydrophilizing agents, dye-facilitating agents, flame retardants, flame retardants, ultraviolet absorbers, etc. into the polyester forming the core component in the form of copolymerization or blending. Normal yarns that are not core-sheath type composite multifilament yarns generally have the disadvantage of a significant decrease in yarn strength when treated with alkali, but in the present invention, the core component can be treated without being exposed to alkali treatment. Another effect of the present invention is that there is little decrease in yarn strength. In particular, the effects of the present invention are remarkable when a polyester copolymerized with ethylene 5-sodium sulfoisophthalate is used as the core component; in this case, the core component is a sheath component of ethylene 5-sodium sulfoisophthalate A copolymerized polyester containing ethylene 5-sodium sulfoisophthalate units is preferably 2 mol % or more less than the unit amount and 1 to 3 mol %. The polyester forming the sheath component is an ethylene terephthalate copolyester containing 2 to 10 mol% of ethylene 5-sodium sulfoisophthalate units, but this copolyester contains up to about 10 mol% of glycols. Alternatively, other esters or oxycarboxylic acids may be included. Examples of compounds that may be contained include aromatic dicarboxylic acids such as isophthalic acid, phthalic acid, and naphthalene-2,6-dicarboxylic acid, and aliphatic dicarboxylic acids such as adipic acid and sebacic acid as acid components, and diethylene glycol, 1 , 4-butanediol, neopentyl glycol, cyclohexane-1,4-dimethanol and the like. Further, it is also possible to improve the yarn-spinning property by adding or containing known degreasing agents, antioxidants, etc. to the polyester forming the sheath component within a range that does not impede the effects of the present invention. In addition to these additives, fluorescent brighteners, flame retardants, dye absorbers, and the like may be added or contained as necessary. As the copolymerized amount of ethylene 5-sodium sulfonate in the polyester increases, it becomes easier to hydrolyze and dissolve and remove by alkali treatment. In the present invention, the amount of copolymerized ethylene 5-sodium sulfonate in the sheath component must be 2 mol % or more at which the hydrolysis rate begins to increase rapidly. In the ethylene 5-sodium sulfoisophthalate/ethylene terephthalate copolyester, when the amount of ethylene 5-sodium sulfonate is 2 mol% or more,
It shows about 5 times more easy hydrolysis than polyethylene terephthalate, and during alkali treatment when producing silk-like woven or knitted fabrics using this polymer combination, the sheath component is dissolved and removed extremely quickly, and after the sheath component is removed, Only a small amount of the core component is dissolved and removed, and the alkali treatment can be carried out in a short time and with good controllability. When the copolymerized amount of ethylene 5-sodium sulfonate in the sheath component increases, the ease of hydrolysis by alkali treatment improves, and it is preferably 3 mol% or more, but on the other hand, if it is too large, the core-sheath composite multifilament will deteriorate. There is a drawback that the strength of the yarn and the spinning property when producing a core-sheath composite multifilament yarn tend to deteriorate, so the amount of copolymerization needs to be 10 mol% or less, preferably 8 mol% or less. The core-sheath composite multifilament yarn that can be used in the present invention is obtained by a normal core-sheath composite spinning method as disclosed in, for example, Japanese Patent Publication No. 43-30011, Japanese Patent Publication No. 47-33724, etc. As described above, the cross-sectional shape of the composite filament yarn is preferably such that a sheath component having a substantially uniform thickness is arranged around a core component having a trilobal cross-sectional shape. There is no particular limit to the amount of the sheath component in the core-sheath composite multifilament yarn, but when polyester woven or knitted fabrics are usually treated with alkali and dissolved and removed, it is effective to dissolve and remove 20 to 35% by weight. Therefore, in the present invention, the amount of the sheath component is preferably 20 to 35% by weight in order to correspond to the amount removed by dissolution. There is no limit to the fineness of the core component, but it is preferably in the range of 0.5 to 2.5 denier in order to obtain a silk-like textured knitted fabric, and the fineness between the core components can be changed to create a denier-mixed yarn that is soft, has a waist, It is also possible to create a silk-like woven or knitted fabric with tension, or to create a silk-like woven or knitted fabric with even more volume by changing the heat shrinkage rate between the core components and using a yarn with a mixed heat shrinkage rate. If yarn breakage or fuzz occurs when the core-sheath composite multifilament yarn passes through processes such as spinning, drawing, weaving, and knitting before dissolving and removing the sheath component, it will affect the productivity of each process and the quality of the resulting woven or knitted product. This is not desirable. The core component is polyester with 90 mol% or more of ethylene terephthalate, and the sheath component is ethylene 5.
- In the case of core-sheath composite multifilament yarn using sodium sulfoisophthalate/ethylene terephthalate copolyester polyester In order to make the above-mentioned drawbacks virtually non-problematic, the intrinsic viscosity of the sheath component is set to 0.60 or less, It is necessary to make it 0.10 or more smaller than the core component, and the intrinsic viscosity of the core component to be 0.55 to 0.80. Ethylene 5-sodium sulfoisophthalate/ethylene terephthalate copolymer polyester has a lower draw ratio than polyethylene terephthalate having the same intrinsic viscosity to obtain a drawn yarn with the same elongation, and it is difficult to draw when drawing a core-sheath composite multifilament yarn. The draw ratio is regulated by the component showing a low draw ratio, and the composite yarn cannot be drawn sufficiently and only a composite yarn with low strength can be obtained. However, by keeping the intrinsic viscosity within the above range, sufficient drawing can be achieved and the yarn strength can be improved. be able to. Normally, it is effective to increase the intrinsic viscosity in order to improve the strength of the drawn yarn, but the present invention is characterized in that it is decreased on the contrary. Note that the intrinsic viscosity of the sheath component is 0.48 because if it is reduced too much, it will be difficult to form a good shape when cutting it into a chip shape after polymerization.
It is preferably at least 0.50, more preferably at least 0.50. Note that the intrinsic viscosity of the present invention is a value measured in orthochlorophenol at 25°C. The filament woven or knitted fabric according to the present invention is not particularly limited in structure, density, etc. as long as the yarn constituting the woven or knitted fabric is a filament, and core-sheath composite multifilament yarn may be used at least in part, but the effects of the present invention may be improved. In order to achieve sufficient performance, it is preferable to use core-sheath composite multifilament yarn for all components of the woven or knitted fabric. If the filaments constituting the woven or knitted fabric are fluffed by cut pile or raising, the silkiness will be reduced, so the woven or knitted fabric of the present invention is a filament woven or knitted fabric that is substantially free of fluff. Furthermore, as described above, the effect is exhibited when the number of filaments in the multifilament yarn is 30 or more. Next, the woven or knitted fabric is subjected to alkali treatment, but it is preferable to heat-set the shape of the woven or knitted fabric in a freely shrinkable state (without applying force) prior to the alkali treatment. This is to dissolve and remove the sheath component by the alkali treatment and to prevent the space between adjacent core components from decreasing due to positional movement of the core components during and after the alkali treatment. The shape fixing temperature is preferably higher than the crystallization temperature (softening point -50°C) of the polyester polymer forming the core component, and usually 150 to 200°C. In addition, it is preferable that the finishing set after the alkali treatment is also set in a state where it can be freely contracted in the same way. As the alkali treatment, any known method may be used in which the woven or knitted fabric is treated with a heated aqueous solution of an alkali metal hydroxide using a batch method, a jitter method, a wince method, a beam method, a hanging tank method, or the like. In particular, it can be preferably applied to a method with increased productivity in which woven or knitted fabrics are continuously treated with alkali by a butt-dry method or a butt-steam method. In order to speed up the dissolution rate of the sheath component, a phenolic substance, an amine substance, a quaternary ammonium salt, a high boiling point polyhydric alcohol, etc. can be added to the alkaline aqueous solution. Among the alkali metal hydroxides, it is preferable to use sodium hydroxide because it is low in cost and has a large dissolving ability.
It is preferable to use it as °C. Although the effects of the present invention can be obtained by dissolving and removing at least a portion of the sheath components through alkali treatment, it is preferable to dissolve and remove all of the sheath components in order to fully exhibit the effects. It is preferable to dissolve and remove all of the sheath components from the viewpoint that if some of the sheath components remain undissolved after the alkali treatment, uneven dyeing is likely to occur during dyeing. The alkali treatment time required to dissolve and remove all of the sheath components depends on the cross-sectional shape of the core-sheath composite filament yarn,
Although it varies depending on the aqueous alkali solution concentration and temperature, it is approximately within 30 minutes, and it is also possible to perform continuous alkali treatment within 3 minutes, and the alkali treatment conditions should be set so that the treatment can be performed in such a short time. It is preferable. As explained above, in the present invention, by using a core-sheath composite multifilament yarn in which the sheath component is a specific polyester that can be dissolved and removed extremely quickly by alkali treatment, it is possible to form a yarn bundle when woven or knitted fabrics are treated with alkali. Since all the filaments are uniformly treated with alkali, the voids between the filaments are large from the outside to the center of the yarn bundle, making it possible to create a silk-like woven or knitted fabric with excellent softness, drapability, and volume. In addition, by arranging polyester, whose strength is easily reduced by alkali treatment, as the core component, it is possible to substantially avoid the alkali treatment during the alkali treatment, thereby reducing the decrease in the strength of the core component. In the alkali treatment, substantially only the sheath component is continuously treated in a very short period of time, and productivity can be significantly increased compared to the case where a woven or knitted fabric using ordinary polyester filament yarn is treated with alkali. Furthermore, the sheath component dissolves extremely quickly during alkali treatment, and the core component hardly dissolves under alkaline treatment conditions, so that the woven or knitted fabric has substantially the same texture even if there are slight variations in treatment time, treatment temperature, etc. I can do it. In the present invention, it is also possible to subject the core-sheath composite multifilament yarn to a shrinking process such as false twisting prior to making it into a woven or knitted fabric. When false-twisting, the heat treatment temperature in the false-twisting area should be varied from (softening point -40℃) of the sheath component to (softening point -40℃) of the sheath component.
100℃), and furthermore, by keeping the softening point below (-60℃), the core component is less deformed than normal yarns that are not core-sheath composite yarns, and can be obtained by spinning and drawing. It is also possible to maintain a good yarn cross-sectional shape even in woven or knitted fabrics by creating a shape close to that of the core component. The present invention will be explained below by giving specific examples. Example 1 Polyethylene terephthalate with an intrinsic viscosity of 0.70 in orthochlorophenol at 25°C as a core component, and intrinsic viscosity in orthochlorophenol at 25°C as a sheath component.
0.53 ethylene 5-sodium sulfoisophthalate (5 mol%)/ethylene terephthalate (95
Mol%) Using copolymerized polyester, spinning temperature
Composite spinning was performed at 290° C. and a spinning speed of 1200 m/min to obtain a core-sheath composite multifilament yarn having a cross section as shown in FIG. In this core-sheath composite multifilament yarn, the sheath component accounts for 25% of the total.
% by weight, and the sheath components had substantially the same thickness. Subsequently, drawing was carried out at a drawing speed of 400 m/min, a hot pin temperature of 120° C., and a drawing ratio of 3.2 times to obtain a drawn yarn of 75 denier and 48 filaments. The strength of the drawn yarn was 4.4 g/d, and the elongation was 33%. This drawn yarn is used for warp yarn (300T/M twist) and weft yarn (700T/M twist) to create a weave density of 98 threads/2.54cm (both vertical and horizontal). Weaved plain fabric. After scouring this fabric with Neugen and soda ash in water at 98-100℃,
The shape was fixed by dry heat setting at 180°C for 3 minutes while allowing free contraction. Then 98-100
2 with an aqueous solution of sodium hydroxide at a concentration of 30 g/°C.
The sheath components were completely dissolved and removed by alkali treatment for one minute, followed by washing with water and air drying. The total amount removed by dissolution from the fabric during alkali treatment was 26%. Then, at 185℃ under substantially no tension,
A dry heat finishing set for 3 minutes was performed to eliminate wrinkles on the surface of the fabric. The texture of the obtained fabric was an excellent silk-like fabric that had volume, drapability, softness, resilience, and silk-like luster. Comparative Example 1 A drawn yarn of 75 denier 48 filament having the same overall polymer composition as the core component of Example 1 and the same cross-sectional shape as the composite yarn of Example 1 was used in accordance with Example 1. Weaving, scouring, shape fixing, alkali treatment, and finishing were carried out. However, it took an extremely long time of 80 minutes to reduce the amount removed by dissolution to 26% during alkali treatment. Compared to the fabric of Example 1, the texture of the obtained fabric was more voluminous,
The drapability, soft feel, and resilience were all impressive. Example 2 Ethylene 5-sodium sulfoisophthalate (2.5 mol%)/ethylene terephthalate (97.5 mol%) copolymerized polyester with an intrinsic viscosity of 0.62 in orthochlorophenol at 25°C as a core component, and orthochlorophenol at 25°C as a sheath component. Spinning and drawing was carried out in accordance with Example 1 using an ethylene 5-sodium sulfoisophthalate (6 mol %)/ethylene terephthalate (94 mol %) copolyester having an intrinsic viscosity of 0.51 in phenol. The strength of the drawn yarn is 3.8
g/d and elongation were 31%. This drawn yarn was subjected to weaving, scouring, shape fixing, alkali treatment, and finishing setting according to Example 1. However, before final setting, a dyeing treatment was carried out using an ordinary basic dye for polyester. The time required to dissolve and remove all the sheath components during the alkali treatment was extremely short, 1.5 minutes, and the total dissolved and removed amount accounted for 28% of the fabric. The texture of the resulting fabric was an excellent silk-like fabric that had volume, drapability, softness, resilience, silk-like luster, and vivid dyeability. The strength of the multifilament yarn constituting the fabric was 3.2 g/d, the elongation was 35%, and the resistance to tearing of the fabric was sufficient for practical use. Comparative Example 2 A drawn yarn of 75 denier 48 filament having the same overall polymer composition as the core component of Example 2 and the same cross-sectional shape as the composite yarn of Example 2 was used in accordance with Example 2. Weaving, scouring, shape fixing, alkali treatment, dyeing, and finishing were carried out. However, the alkali treatment required a long time of 15 minutes to achieve a dissolution removal amount of 28%. The texture of the obtained fabric was superior to that of the fabric of Example 2 in terms of volume, drapability, softness, and resilience. Furthermore, at the drawn yarn stage, the strength was 3.9 g/d and the elongation was 34%, but the strength of the multifilament yarn constituting the fabric after finishing and setting was 2.4 g/d and the elongation was 30%, making it difficult to tear the fabric. The resistance to this was impractical. Example 3 The core component and the sheath component had the combinations of intrinsic viscosities shown in Table 1, and composite spinning and stretching were performed according to Example 1. The stretching ratio during stretching was such that the elongation of the core-sheath composite multifilament yarn was 30%. The obtained drawn yarn was woven according to Example 1 and subjected to alkali treatment. Both Nos. 1 and 5 had the notable drawback of frequent occurrence of fuzz and thread breakage during spinning and weaving. All of the fabrics were silk-like fabrics that had a sense of volume, drape, softness, resilience, and silk-like luster, but the strength of the multifilament yarns that made up fabrics No. 1 and 5 was too low. Correspondingly, the tear strength was low and it was impractical. The fabrics of Nos. 2 to 4 were practical. Strength of composite multifilament yarn,
From the viewpoint of spinning properties, weavability, and practicality of textiles, the intrinsic viscosity of the sheath component should be 0.60 or less, and it should be lower than that of the core component.
It was shown that it is necessary to use a polyester that is smaller than 0.10. 【table】

[Brief explanation of the drawing]

FIG. 1 shows the cross-sectional shape of a core-sheath composite yarn that can be preferably used in the present invention. 1...Core component, 2...Sheath component.

Claims (1)

[Scope of Claims] 1. A polyester in which the core component is 90 mol% or more of ethylene terephthalate, and the sheath component is 2 to 20% by mole.
When producing a core-sheath composite multifilament yarn, which is an ethylene terephthalate copolyester containing 10 mol% of ethylene 5-sodium sulfoisophthalate units, the intrinsic viscosity of the core component (25°C
orthochlorophenol) is 0.55 to 0.80, the intrinsic viscosity of the sheath component is 0.60 or less, and is 0.10 or more smaller than the core component, the core component has a trilobal cross section, and the number of filaments is 30 or more. A method for producing a silk-like filament woven or knitted fabric, comprising dissolving and removing at least a part of the sheath component of the woven or knitted fabric using a core-sheath composite multifilament yarn by alkali treatment. 2. A patent for a copolymerized polyester in which the core component is 2 mol% or more less than the amount of ethylene 5-sodium sulfoisophthalate units in the sheath component, and contains 1 to 3 mol% of ethylene 5-sodium sulfoisophthalate units. A method for producing a silk-like filament woven or knitted fabric according to claim 1. 3. The method for producing a silk-like filament woven or knitted fabric according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the thickness of the sheath component of each filament of the core-sheath composite multifilament yarn is substantially uniform. 4. The method for producing a silk-like filament woven or knitted fabric according to claim 1, 2 or 3, wherein the woven or knitted fabric is heat set before being treated with alkali.