JPH0797731A - Conjugate yarn for woven or knit fabric - Google Patents

Conjugate yarn for woven or knit fabric

Info

Publication number
JPH0797731A
JPH0797731A JP5259133A JP25913393A JPH0797731A JP H0797731 A JPH0797731 A JP H0797731A JP 5259133 A JP5259133 A JP 5259133A JP 25913393 A JP25913393 A JP 25913393A JP H0797731 A JPH0797731 A JP H0797731A
Authority
JP
Japan
Prior art keywords
yarn
composite
elongation
twisted
spontaneously
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Granted
Application number
JP5259133A
Other languages
Japanese (ja)
Other versions
JP3275478B2 (en
Inventor
Yasuichi Watanabe
康市 渡辺
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Toyobo Co Ltd
Original Assignee
Toyobo Co Ltd
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Toyobo Co Ltd filed Critical Toyobo Co Ltd
Priority to JP25913393A priority Critical patent/JP3275478B2/en
Publication of JPH0797731A publication Critical patent/JPH0797731A/en
Application granted granted Critical
Publication of JP3275478B2 publication Critical patent/JP3275478B2/en
Anticipated expiration legal-status Critical
Expired - Lifetime legal-status Critical Current

Links

Classifications

    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D02YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
    • D02GCRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
    • D02G3/00Yarns or threads, e.g. fancy yarns; Processes or apparatus for the production thereof, not otherwise provided for
    • D02G3/22Yarns or threads characterised by constructional features, e.g. blending, filament/fibre
    • D02G3/24Bulked yarns or threads, e.g. formed from staple fibre components with different relaxation characteristics
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D02YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
    • D02GCRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
    • D02G3/00Yarns or threads, e.g. fancy yarns; Processes or apparatus for the production thereof, not otherwise provided for
    • D02G3/22Yarns or threads characterised by constructional features, e.g. blending, filament/fibre
    • D02G3/32Elastic yarns or threads ; Production of plied or cored yarns, one of which is elastic
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10BINDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2331/00Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products
    • D10B2331/06Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products polyethers

Landscapes

  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Mechanical Engineering (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Artificial Filaments (AREA)
  • Yarns And Mechanical Finishing Of Yarns Or Ropes (AREA)
  • Woven Fabrics (AREA)

Abstract

PURPOSE:To obtain conjugate yarn for woven or knit fabric having high softness and bulkiness and moderate stretchability and drapeability by entangling a specific spontaneously elongating polyester multifilament and a specific false- twisted polyester conjugate yarn. CONSTITUTION:This false-twisted conjugate yarn is composed of two or more kinds of polyester multifilaments consisting of a spontaneously elongating polyester multifilament having a single fiber fineness of <=3 de, a filament number of >=5, a hot-water shrinkage of >=-2%, a dry-heat shrinkage of <=0% at 160 deg.C and a breaking elongation of >=50% and a polyester multifilament having different elongation at break. The yarn is an alternately twisted yarn containing the high-elongation yarn wound around the low-elongation yarn and having a hot-water shrinkage of >=0% and a 160 deg.C dry-heat shrinkage higher than that of the spontaneously elongating yarn by >=5%. The spontaneously elongating yarn and the false-twisted conjugate yarn are aligned at a blending ratio of the false-twisted yarn of 30-70% in terms of denier ratio and supplied to an air jet nozzle to effect the entanglement and obtain a conjugate yarn having an entanglement degree of 20-100/m.

Description

【発明の詳細な説明】Detailed Description of the Invention

【0001】[0001]

【産業上の利用分野】この発明は、ソフトで、かさ高性
に富み、かつ適度な張りとドレープ性を有する編織物用
複合糸に関するものである。
BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION 1. Field of the Invention The present invention relates to a composite yarn for knitted fabric, which is soft, rich in bulkiness, and has appropriate tension and drape.

【0002】[0002]

【従来の技術】ポリエステルやナイロン等の合成繊維か
らなる編織物用糸として、絹様風合いを有するものが種
々開発され、一部の分野では絹を凌駕する特性が得られ
ている。例えば、熱収縮特性を異にする複数本のポリエ
ステルマルチフィラメント糸からなる複合糸は、かさ高
性、暖かみ等に優れた特性を示し、広く使用されてい
る。また、熱処理により伸長するポリエステルフィラメ
ントと収縮するフィラメントとからなる複合糸が、特開
昭55−62240号公報、特開昭56−112537
号公報、特開昭60−28515号公報等で知られてお
り、これらはソフトな風合いが得られる点で優れてい
る。
2. Description of the Related Art Various yarns having a silky texture have been developed as yarns for knitted fabrics made of synthetic fibers such as polyester and nylon, and in some fields, properties superior to silk have been obtained. For example, a composite yarn composed of a plurality of polyester multifilament yarns having different heat shrinkage properties shows excellent properties such as bulkiness and warmth, and is widely used. A composite yarn composed of a polyester filament which is elongated by heat treatment and a filament which is contracted is disclosed in JP-A-55-62240 and JP-A-56-112537.
It is known from JP-A No. 60-28515 and the like, and these are excellent in that a soft texture can be obtained.

【0003】しかしながら、これらの複合糸は、膨らみ
や適度な張り、腰等の面で不充分であり、また伸長によ
り突出したフィラメントからなるループによってヌメリ
感が生じ、また熱処理によって大きな糸長差が発現する
ので糸が分離し、後工程での取扱いが困難になる等の問
題があった。また、膨らみを大きくするために芯糸に熱
収縮性の大きいマルチフィラメント糸を使用すると、芯
部だけが固くなり、いわゆる芯のある風合いとなり、こ
れを防止するために芯糸に熱収縮率の小さいマルチフィ
ラメント糸を使用すると、膨らみが不充分になってい
た。
However, these composite yarns are insufficient in terms of bulge, moderate tension, waist, etc., and a loop made of filaments protruding due to elongation causes a slimy feel, and a large difference in yarn length occurs due to heat treatment. Since it is expressed, the yarn is separated, and there is a problem that it becomes difficult to handle in the subsequent process. In addition, when a multifilament yarn having a large heat shrinkability is used for the core yarn to increase the bulge, only the core portion becomes hard and a so-called texture with a core is formed. The bulge was inadequate when using small multifilament yarns.

【0004】[0004]

【発明が解決しようとする課題】この発明は、編織後の
仕上げ熱セットで膨らみを発現し、柔軟で、かさ高性に
富み、かつ適度な張りとドレープ性を有する編織物が得
られる複合糸を提供するものである。
DISCLOSURE OF THE INVENTION The present invention provides a composite yarn which gives rise to bulges in the finishing heat set after knitting and weaving, is flexible, has a high bulkiness, and has appropriate tension and drape. Is provided.

【0005】[0005]

【課題を解決するための手段】この発明の編織物用複合
糸は、自発伸長性のポリエステルマルチフィラメント糸
と、熱収縮性を有し破断伸度が異なる2種以上のポリエ
ステルマルチフィラメント糸からなる複合仮撚糸とを交
絡してなる編織物用複合糸であり、その交絡度が20〜
100個/m、該複合糸における上記複合仮撚糸の混用
率がデニール比で30〜70%であり、上記の自発伸長
性ポリエステルマルチフィラメント糸が繊度3デニール
以下のフィラメント5本以上からなり、その熱水収縮率
が−2%以上、温度160℃における乾熱収縮率が0%
以下、破断伸度が50%以上であり、上記の複合仮撚糸
が該複合仮撚糸を形成する比較的低伸度のマルチフィラ
メント糸の回りに比較的高伸度のマルチフィラメント糸
を交互撚糸状に巻き付けて形成され、この複合仮撚糸の
熱水収縮率が0%以上であって、温度160℃における
乾熱収縮率が上記自発伸長性ポリエステルマルチフィラ
メント糸の乾熱収縮率よりも5%以上大きいことを特徴
とする。
The composite yarn for knitted fabric of the present invention comprises a spontaneously extensible polyester multifilament yarn and two or more kinds of polyester multifilament yarns having heat shrinkability and different breaking elongations. It is a composite yarn for knitted fabric, which is entangled with a composite false-twisted yarn, and the degree of entanglement is 20 to
100 / m, the mixing ratio of the composite false twisted yarn in the composite yarn is 30 to 70% in denier ratio, and the spontaneously extensible polyester multifilament yarn is composed of 5 or more filaments having a fineness of 3 denier or less, Hot water shrinkage is -2% or more, dry heat shrinkage at a temperature of 160 ° C is 0%
Hereinafter, the composite false-twisted yarn having a breaking elongation of 50% or more, and the above-described composite false-twisted yarn forming the composite false-twisted yarn, has a relatively high-extension multifilament yarn alternately twisted around the comparatively low-extended multifilament yarn. The composite false-twisted yarn has a hot water shrinkage ratio of 0% or more and a dry heat shrinkage ratio at a temperature of 160 ° C. of 5% or more than the dry heat shrinkage ratio of the spontaneously stretchable polyester multifilament yarn. Characterized by being large.

【0006】この発明の自発伸長性ポリエステルマルチ
フィラメント糸は、製織準備工程のサイジング工程のよ
うに比較的低温では伸長しないが、製編織後の仕上げセ
ットのように160〜180℃の高温熱処理では伸長
し、その熱水収縮率が−2%以上、好ましくは5%以
下、乾熱収縮率(160℃)が0%以下、好ましくは−
15%以上であって、この乾熱収縮率が複合仮撚糸の乾
熱収縮率(160℃)よりも小さく、その差が5%以
上、好ましくは50%以下のものである。また、破断伸
度は50%以上、好ましくは100%以下、更に好まし
くは80%以下である。そして、この発明で使用する上
記の自発伸長性ポリエステルマルチフィラメント糸は、
平均繊度3デニール以下、好ましくは0.2デニール以
上のポリエステルフィラメント5本以上からなるマルチ
フィラメント糸である。なお、上記のフィラメントは、
横断面の外周に少なくとも1個の凹部を有する三角形、
六角形、偏平形等の異形断面(中空を含む)であること
が好ましい。
The spontaneously extensible polyester multifilament yarn of the present invention does not elongate at a relatively low temperature as in the sizing step in the weaving preparation step, but elongates in a high temperature heat treatment at 160 to 180 ° C. as in a finish set after weaving and weaving. However, the hot water shrinkage is −2% or more, preferably 5% or less, and the dry heat shrinkage (160 ° C.) is 0% or less, preferably −
The dry heat shrinkage is 15% or more and is smaller than the dry heat shrinkage (160 ° C.) of the composite false twisted yarn, and the difference is 5% or more, preferably 50% or less. The elongation at break is 50% or more, preferably 100% or less, and more preferably 80% or less. And, the above spontaneously extensible polyester multifilament yarn used in the present invention,
A multifilament yarn composed of 5 or more polyester filaments having an average fineness of 3 denier or less, preferably 0.2 denier or more. The above filament is
A triangle having at least one recess on the outer circumference of the cross section,
It is preferable that the cross section has a modified cross section (including hollow) such as a hexagon or a flat shape.

【0007】上記の自発伸長性ポリエステルマルチフィ
ラメント糸は、例えば、次のようにして製造される。す
なわち、溶融ポリエステルを速度1500〜4000m
/分、好ましくは2000〜4000m/分で紡糸し、
得られた未延伸糸を温度Tg〜Tg +20℃(ただし、Tg
はガラス転移点) で、延伸後の破断伸度が30〜45
%、Δnが0.10〜0.14となるように延伸し、次いで温度
Tm 〜Tm −10℃(ただし、Tm は溶融点≒170
℃)、長さ0.1 〜2mの非接触式ヒータを使用し、オー
バーフィード率20〜60%の条件で弛緩熱処理を行
い、速度100〜1500m/分で引取る。
The above spontaneously extensible polyester multifilament yarn is manufactured, for example, as follows. That is, the molten polyester is spun at a speed of 1500 to 4000 m.
/ Min, preferably 2000-4000 m / min,
The obtained undrawn yarn has a temperature of Tg to Tg + 20 ° C (however, Tg
Is the glass transition point), and the breaking elongation after stretching is 30 to 45.
%, Δn is 0.10 to 0.14, and then the temperature is Tm to Tm −10 ° C. (where Tm is melting point ≈170
C.), a non-contact type heater having a length of 0.1 to 2 m is used, relaxation heat treatment is performed under the condition of an overfeed rate of 20 to 60%, and the heat treatment is performed at a speed of 100 to 1500 m / min.

【0008】ただし、紡糸速度が1500m/分未満で
は、延伸後の物性が不安定になり、太さ斑が大きくな
り、反対に4000m/分を超えると、延伸後の自発伸
長性が低くなり、所望の風合いの編織物が得られない。
また、延伸温度がTg 未満では延伸が不安定となり、T
g +20℃を超えると結晶化が進み、自発伸長性が低下す
る。そして、破断伸度が30%未満では延伸時の操業性
が低下し、45%超では糸斑の発生が増大する。また、
Δnが0.10〜0.14の範囲から外れた場合は、リラックス
熱処理による自発伸長性が不安定になる。そして、弛緩
熱処理の際のヒータ温度がTm 未満では効果がなく、T
m −10℃を超えると停台の際に糸切れが発生する。
However, if the spinning speed is less than 1500 m / min, the physical properties after stretching become unstable and the thickness unevenness becomes large, while if it exceeds 4000 m / min, the spontaneous stretching property after stretching becomes low, A knitted fabric having a desired texture cannot be obtained.
If the stretching temperature is less than Tg, stretching becomes unstable, and T
If it exceeds g + 20 ° C, crystallization will proceed and spontaneous elongation will decrease. If the breaking elongation is less than 30%, the operability during drawing is reduced, and if it exceeds 45%, the occurrence of yarn unevenness increases. Also,
When Δn is out of the range of 0.10 to 0.14, the spontaneous elongation due to the relaxation heat treatment becomes unstable. And, if the heater temperature during the relaxation heat treatment is less than Tm, no effect is obtained.
If the temperature exceeds m-10 ° C, thread breakage will occur when the machine is stopped.

【0009】上記の自発伸長性ポリエステルマルチフィ
ラメント糸と交絡によって複合される複合仮撚糸は、通
常の熱収縮性を有するが、破断伸度を異にする2種以上
のポリエステルマルチフィラメント糸からなり、例え
ば、破断伸度の異なる2種のポリエステル未延伸糸を引
き揃えて延伸同時仮撚を施すことによって製造され、上
記破断伸度の比較的低いポリエステルマルチフィラメン
ト糸の回りに破断伸度の比較的高いポリエステルマルチ
フィラメント糸が交互撚糸状に巻き付いた形態を備えて
いる。なお、上記の延伸同時仮撚を施す前にエアジェッ
トノズルに供給して混繊、交絡させ、膨らみを増大させ
ることができる。
The composite false twisted yarn, which is composited with the above spontaneously extensible polyester multifilament yarn by entanglement, has ordinary heat shrinkability, but is composed of two or more kinds of polyester multifilament yarns having different breaking elongations, For example, it is produced by aligning two kinds of polyester undrawn yarns having different breaking elongations and subjecting them to simultaneous drawing false twisting, and a relatively high breaking elongation is obtained around the polyester multifilament yarn having a relatively low breaking elongation. The high polyester multifilament yarn has a form in which it is wound in an alternating twisted yarn form. Before the simultaneous drawing and false twisting described above, the bulge can be increased by supplying the air jet nozzle to mix and entangle the fibers.

【0010】この複合仮撚糸は、その熱水収縮率が0%
以上、好ましくは3%以上、温度160℃における乾熱
収縮率と上記自発伸長性ポリエステルマルチフィラメン
ト糸の乾熱収縮率との差が5%以上のものである。な
お、該複合仮撚糸自体の乾熱収縮率は4%以上が好まし
い。また、上記の複合仮撚糸の破断強力および破断伸度
は、それぞれ2g/d以上および40%以下が好まし
い。また、この複合仮撚糸における破断伸度の比較的低
いポリエステルマルチフィラメント糸の混用率は、デニ
ール比で20〜80%が好ましい。
This composite false twisted yarn has a hot water shrinkage of 0%.
It is preferably 3% or more, and the difference between the dry heat shrinkage at 160 ° C. and the dry heat shrinkage of the spontaneously stretchable polyester multifilament yarn is 5% or more. The dry heat shrinkage of the composite false twisted yarn itself is preferably 4% or more. The breaking strength and breaking elongation of the composite false twisted yarn are preferably 2 g / d or more and 40% or less, respectively. The mixing ratio of the polyester multifilament yarn having a relatively low breaking elongation in the composite false twisted yarn is preferably 20 to 80% in terms of denier ratio.

【0011】上記2種の未延伸糸の破断伸度差は、複合
仮撚糸を構成する高伸度の糸が低伸度の糸の長さに対し
て3〜13%長くなる程度が好ましい。この破断伸度差
が小さくて糸長差が3%未満になった場合は、編織物の
膨らみが不足し、反対に破断伸度差が大きくて糸長差が
13%を超えた場合は、編織物の膨らみが過大になり、
ふかついた風合いとなる。なお、上記破断伸度の差が小
さい場合は、上記の延伸同時仮撚を施す前に上記2種の
未延伸糸を引き揃えて混繊交絡用のエアジェットノズル
に供給し、混繊・交絡させることが好ましい。また、上
記ポリエステル未延伸糸の破断伸度は、比較的低伸度の
ものも比較的高伸度のものも物性の経時的安定性および
仮撚加工時の操業性の面から350%以下が好ましい。
The difference in elongation at break between the two types of undrawn yarns is preferably such that the high elongation yarns constituting the composite false twisted yarn are 3 to 13% longer than the lengths of the low elongation yarns. When the difference in breaking elongation is small and the difference in yarn length is less than 3%, the knitted woven fabric is insufficient in bulge, and when the difference in breaking elongation is large and the difference in yarn length exceeds 13%, The bulge of the knitted fabric becomes excessive,
It has a soft texture. When the difference between the breaking elongations is small, the two types of undrawn yarns are aligned and supplied to the air jet nozzle for mixed fiber entanglement before the simultaneous drawing and false twisting described above. Preferably. Further, the breaking elongation of the polyester unstretched yarn is 350% or less in terms of stability with time of physical properties and operability during false twisting for both those having relatively low elongation and those having relatively high elongation. preferable.

【0012】上記の自発伸長性ポリエステルマルチフィ
ラメント糸および複合仮撚糸を引き揃え、エアジェット
ノズルに供給して交絡させることにより、この発明の編
織物用複合糸が得られる。ただし、この編織物用複合糸
における複合仮撚糸の混用率は、デニール比で30〜7
0%に設定される。また、交絡度は20〜100個/m
に設定される。
The self-expanding polyester multifilament yarn and the composite false twisted yarn described above are aligned, supplied to an air jet nozzle and entangled to obtain the composite yarn for knitted fabric of the present invention. However, the mixing ratio of the composite false twisted yarn in the composite yarn for knitted fabric is 30 to 7 in terms of denier ratio.
It is set to 0%. The degree of entanglement is 20 to 100 pieces / m
Is set to.

【0013】なお、この発明でいう破断伸度、熱水収縮
率、乾熱収縮率および交絡度は、以下の方法で測定され
る。
The elongation at break, hot water shrinkage, dry heat shrinkage and entanglement in the present invention are measured by the following methods.

【0014】破断伸度 JIS−L−1013(1981)に準じ、東洋ボール
ドウィン社製テンシロンを使用し、試料長(ゲージ長)
200mm、引張り速度200mm/分でS−S曲線を描
き、この曲線から算定される。
Elongation at break In accordance with JIS-L-1013 (1981), using Tensilon manufactured by Toyo Baldwin Co., Ltd., sample length (gauge length)
An SS curve is drawn at 200 mm and a pulling speed of 200 mm / min, and the curve is calculated from this curve.

【0015】熱水収縮率(SHW) JIS−L−1073に準じ、適当な枠周のラップリー
ルに初荷重1/10g/デニールで8回巻きの綛をと
り、この綛に1/30g/デニールの荷重をかけてその
長さL0 (mm)を測定し、次いで上記の荷重を取り除
き、1/1000g/デニールの荷重をかけた状態で上
記の綛を沸騰水中に浸漬し、30分後に沸騰水から取出
し、冷却した後、再び1/30g/デニールの荷重をか
けてその長さL1 (mm)を測定し、次式で算出する。 SHW=(L0 −L1 )×100/L0
Hot water shrinkage rate (SHW) According to JIS-L-1073, a lap reel having an appropriate frame circumference is wound 8 times with an initial load of 1/10 g / denier and 1/30 g / denier. The length L 0 (mm) is measured by applying the load of No. 1, then the above load is removed, and the above-mentioned ridge is immersed in boiling water with a load of 1/1000 g / denier, and boiled after 30 minutes. After taking out from water and cooling, a load of 1/30 g / denier is applied again and the length L 1 (mm) is measured, and calculated by the following formula. SHW = (L 0 −L 1 ) × 100 / L 0

【0016】乾熱収縮率(SHD) 熱水収縮率の測定時と同様にしてL0 (mm)を測定した
後、1/1000g/デニールの荷重をかけた状態で綛
を沸騰水中に浸漬する代わりに乾熱160℃のオーブン
中で熱処理し、次いで冷却した後、再び再び1/30g
/デニールの荷重をかけてその長さL2 (mm)を測定
し、次式で算出する。 SHD=(L0 −L2 )×100/L0
Dry Heat Shrinkage (SHD) After measuring L 0 (mm) in the same manner as in the measurement of hot water shrinkage, the drip is immersed in boiling water under a load of 1/1000 g / denier. Instead, heat-treat in an oven at dry heat of 160 ° C, then cool and then again 1 / 30g
/ Denier load is applied and the length L 2 (mm) is measured and calculated by the following formula. SHD = (L 0 −L 2 ) × 100 / L 0

【0017】交絡度 適当な長さの糸を取出し、1m間隔でマークを付け、次
いでこの糸を水に浮かべ、上記マーク間の自発伸長性ポ
リエステルマルチフィラメント糸のくびれ個数を測定
し、この測定を5回繰返して平均し、この平均値を交絡
度とする。
Degree of entanglement A thread of an appropriate length is taken out, marks are made at intervals of 1 m, the threads are floated on water, and the number of constrictions of the spontaneously extensible polyester multifilament thread between the marks is measured. It is repeated 5 times and averaged, and this average value is taken as the degree of confounding.

【0018】[0018]

【作用】この発明の編織物用複合糸Eは、常法にしたが
って整経され、糊付後に製織され、更に染色、乾燥の後
に熱セットされて仕上げられるが、この仕上げの熱セッ
トの際に160〜180℃の高温に曝されることによ
り、図1に示すように自発伸長性ポリエステルマルチフ
ィラメント糸Aを構成する各フィラメントが伸長する一
方、複合仮撚糸Dを構成する2種以上の熱収縮性ポリエ
ステルフィラメント糸B、Cが収縮して芯部を形成する
ため、上記自発伸長性ポリエステルマルチフィラメント
糸Aの構成フィラメントが布表面にループ状に突出し、
柔軟な風合いを呈する。しかも、複合仮撚糸Dは比較的
低伸度のポリエステルマルチフィラメント糸Bの回りに
比較的高伸度のポリエステルマルチフィラメント糸Cが
交互撚糸状に巻き付いた多層構造の仮撚糸であるため、
上記のように芯部を形成しながら、この芯部自体に空隙
を形成する。したがって、上記ループの形成によるソフ
トな表面タッチとあいまち、編織物にウール製品以上の
膨らみや暖かみ、適度な張りとドレープ性が与えられ
る。
The composite yarn E for knitting and woven fabric of the present invention is warped in accordance with a conventional method, woven after sizing, and further heat-set after dyeing and drying. When exposed to a high temperature of 160 to 180 ° C., each filament constituting the spontaneously extensible polyester multifilament yarn A is elongated as shown in FIG. 1, while at least two types of heat shrinkage constituting the composite false twisted yarn D are contracted. Since the flexible polyester filament yarns B and C contract to form a core, the constituent filaments of the spontaneously stretchable polyester multifilament yarn A project in a loop shape on the cloth surface,
It has a soft texture. Moreover, since the composite false twisted yarn D is a false twisted yarn having a multilayer structure in which the polyester multifilament yarn C having a relatively high elongation is wound around the polyester multifilament yarn B having a relatively high elongation in an alternate twisted yarn shape,
While forming the core as described above, a void is formed in the core itself. Therefore, the knitted and woven fabric is given more bulge and warmth than the wool product, and appropriate tension and drape property, due to the soft surface touch and the interference due to the formation of the loop.

【0019】しかして、上記の編織物用複合糸は、糸の
段階では自発伸長性ポリエステルマルチフィラメント糸
と複合仮撚糸との間にほとんど糸長差が無く、糊付け工
程においても処理温度が100℃以下であって上記の糸
長差が発現せず、糸表面が平滑であるため、製織準備工
程から製織工程に至る一連の工程で複合糸がガイドやコ
ーム類を通る際に引っ掛かることがなく、工程通過性が
良好であり、製織も容易に行われる。
However, in the above-mentioned knitted and woven composite yarn, there is almost no difference in yarn length between the spontaneously extensible polyester multifilament yarn and the composite false twisted yarn at the yarn stage, and the treatment temperature is 100 ° C. even in the sizing step. Since the above yarn length difference does not occur and the yarn surface is smooth, the composite yarn does not get caught when passing through the guides or the combs in the series of steps from the weaving preparation step to the weaving step. Good processability and easy weaving.

【0020】しかしながら、自発伸長性ポリエステルマ
ルチフィラメント糸の熱水収縮率が−2%よりも小さく
て伸長性が大きい場合には、糊付け工程で上記の糸長差
が発現するため、以後の工程通過性が不良になり、また
温度160℃における乾熱収縮率が0%を超えたり、複
合仮撚糸および自発伸長性ポリエステルマルチフィラメ
ント糸の乾熱収縮率差が5%未満であったりした場合
は、最終の仕上げ熱セットの際に十分な膨らみとソフト
な風合いが得られず、この発明の目的が達成されない。
ただし、上記乾熱収縮率の差が過大になり、50%を超
えると、布表面から突出するループが大きくなり過ぎ、
アイロン掛けの際にテカリが発生する。自発伸長性ポリ
エステルマルチフィラメント糸の熱水収縮率が5%を超
えた場合、乾熱収縮率が−15%未満の場合も同様であ
る。
However, when the hot water shrinkage rate of the spontaneously extensible polyester multifilament yarn is less than -2% and the extensibility is large, the above yarn length difference appears in the sizing step, and therefore the subsequent steps are passed. When the dry heat shrinkage at a temperature of 160 ° C. exceeds 0%, or the difference in dry heat shrinkage between the composite false twisted yarn and the spontaneously extensible polyester multifilament yarn is less than 5%, In the final heat setting for finishing, sufficient bulge and soft texture cannot be obtained, and the object of the present invention is not achieved.
However, if the difference in the dry heat shrinkage becomes too large and exceeds 50%, the loop protruding from the cloth surface becomes too large,
Glistening occurs when ironing. The same applies when the hot-water shrinkage of the spontaneously stretchable polyester multifilament yarn exceeds 5% and the dry-heat shrinkage of less than -15%.

【0021】上記自発伸長性ポリエステルマルチフィラ
メント糸の破断伸度は、50%以上、好ましくは100
%以下であるが、50%未満の場合は、上記の熱水収縮
率(−2%以上)を得るのが困難になり、そのため布帛
表面を上記フィラメントのループで被覆して風合いをソ
フトにすることが不可能になる。ただし、上記の破断伸
度が80%、特に100%を超えると、取扱性が低下し
て好ましくない。
The breaking elongation of the above spontaneously extensible polyester multifilament yarn is 50% or more, preferably 100.
% Or less, but when it is less than 50%, it becomes difficult to obtain the above-mentioned hot water shrinkage rate (-2% or more), and therefore the fabric surface is covered with the above-mentioned filament loop to soften the texture. Becomes impossible. However, if the elongation at break exceeds 80%, particularly 100%, the handleability is deteriorated, which is not preferable.

【0022】そして、この自発伸長性ポリエステルマル
チフィラメント糸は、繊度3デニール以下、好ましくは
0.2デニール以上のポリエステルフィラメント5本以
上で形成されるが、各フィラメントが全て3デニール以
下である必要はなく、平均繊度が3デニール以下であれ
ばよい。この平均繊度が3デニールを超えると、破断伸
度が大きく、ヤング率が低くても、風合いが粗硬にな
り、この発明の目的が達成できず、反対に細過ぎて0.
2デニール未満になると、異形断面であっても、フィラ
メントの張りや腰が乏しくなり、好ましくない。また、
フィラメント本数が5本未満の場合は、このフィラメン
トで複合糸または布の表面を覆うことができず、ソフト
な風合いが得られなくなる。
This spontaneously extensible polyester multifilament yarn is formed by 5 or more polyester filaments having a fineness of 3 denier or less, preferably 0.2 denier or more, but it is necessary that each filament is 3 denier or less. However, the average fineness may be 3 denier or less. When the average fineness exceeds 3 denier, even if the breaking elongation is large and the Young's modulus is low, the texture becomes rough and hard, and the object of the present invention cannot be achieved.
If the denier is less than 2 denier, even if the cross section is irregular, the filament tension and stiffness are poor, which is not preferable. Also,
If the number of filaments is less than 5, the surface of the composite yarn or cloth cannot be covered with the filaments, and soft texture cannot be obtained.

【0023】上記自発伸長性ポリエステルマルチフィラ
メント糸の構成フィラメントを、その断面の外周に1個
以上の凹部を有する異形断面にした場合は、破断伸度が
大きくてヌメリ感が生じ易いにもかかわらず、フィラメ
ント相互間に点接触部が多くなるため、ドライタッチが
得られる。ただし、ヌメリ感を強調する場合、または酸
化チタンの含有量を多くしたフルダル糸のように減量加
工でフィラメント表面を粗面化してドライタッチにする
場合は、上記の異形断面にする必要がない。
When the constituent filaments of the spontaneously extensible polyester multifilament yarn have a modified cross section having one or more recesses on the outer periphery of the cross section, the breaking elongation is large and a slimy feeling is likely to occur. Since a large number of point contact portions are provided between the filaments, a dry touch can be obtained. However, in the case of emphasizing a slimy feeling, or in the case of roughening the filament surface by weight reduction processing to make it dry-touch, such as a full dull yarn having a high content of titanium oxide, it is not necessary to have the above-mentioned irregular cross section.

【0024】この発明の編織物用複合糸に加わる外力
は、主としてその芯部を構成する複合仮撚糸によって負
担される。したがって、この複合仮撚糸の破断伸度は、
40%以下が好ましく、40%を超えた場合は、巻き返
し、整経および製編織の際に加わる張力で糸斑が生じ易
く、編織して製品とした後にひざ抜けが発生し易くな
る。また、上記複合仮撚糸の破断強力は2g/d以上が
好ましく、2g/d未満の場合は、上記の巻き返し以後
の工程で糸切れが多くなる。
The external force applied to the composite yarn for knitted fabric of the present invention is mainly borne by the composite false-twisted yarn constituting the core portion thereof. Therefore, the breaking elongation of this composite false twisted yarn is
The content is preferably 40% or less, and when it exceeds 40%, yarn unevenness is likely to occur due to tension applied during rewinding, warping and weaving and knitting, and a knee is apt to occur after knitting into a product. Further, the breaking strength of the above composite false-twisted yarn is preferably 2 g / d or more, and when it is less than 2 g / d, the yarn breakage increases in the steps after the above-mentioned rewinding.

【0025】上記複合仮撚糸の編織物用複合糸全体に対
する混用率は、デニール比で30〜70%であるが、こ
の混用率が30%未満の場合は、自発伸長性ポリエステ
ルマルチフィラメント糸の伸長力に影響されて糸長差に
よる膨らみが発現されず、反対に70%を超えた場合
は、布表面を覆うループ状の突起が不足して所望の風合
いが得られない。
The mixing ratio of the above-described composite false twisted yarn to the entire knitted fabric composite yarn is 30 to 70% in terms of denier ratio. If the mixing ratio is less than 30%, the elongation of the spontaneously extensible polyester multifilament yarn is increased. The bulge due to the difference in yarn length is not expressed under the influence of the force. On the contrary, when the bulge exceeds 70%, a desired texture cannot be obtained because the loop-shaped projections covering the cloth surface are insufficient.

【0026】この発明の編織物用複合糸は、上記のよう
に自発伸長性ポリエステルマルチフィラメント糸と2種
以上の熱収縮性ポリエステルマルチフィラメント糸から
なる複合仮撚糸とを交絡して複合したものであるから、
編織後の仕上げ熱セットにより、複合仮撚糸が芯部を、
自発伸長性ポリエステルマルチフィラメント糸が表層部
をそれぞれ形成するが、上記の複合が交絡によって行わ
れるので、上記の熱セット後においては、上記複合糸の
中心から半径の1/3以内の芯部に複合仮撚糸が比較的
多量に分散し、表面から半径の1/3以内の表層部に自
発伸長性ポリエステルフィラメントが比較的多量に分散
した形態となる。そして、交絡度が20個/m未満で
は、編織物用複合糸が自発伸長性ポリエステルマルチフ
ィラメント糸と複合仮撚糸とに分離し易くなり、反対に
100個/mを超えると、布表面に突出するループが少
なくなり、かつ複合仮撚糸の交互撚糸構造が破壊される
ため、編織物の柔軟性、張り、腰が乏しくなり、更に自
発伸長性の各フィラメントが切断して毛羽を発生し易く
なる。
The composite yarn for knitting and woven fabric of the present invention is obtained by entwining the spontaneously extensible polyester multifilament yarn and the composite false twisted yarn composed of two or more kinds of heat-shrinkable polyester multifilament yarns, as described above. because there is,
The composite false-twisted yarn makes the core part by the finishing heat setting after weaving.
The spontaneously extensible polyester multifilament yarns form the surface layer portions, respectively, but since the above-mentioned compounding is performed by the entanglement, after the heat setting, the core part within 1/3 of the radius from the center of the compound yarns is formed. The composite false-twisted yarn is dispersed in a relatively large amount, and the spontaneously extensible polyester filament is dispersed in a relatively large amount in the surface layer portion within 1/3 of the radius from the surface. When the degree of entanglement is less than 20 pieces / m, the composite yarn for knitting fabric easily separates into the spontaneously extensible polyester multifilament yarn and the composite false-twisted yarn. The number of loops is reduced, and the alternate twisted structure of the composite false twisted yarn is destroyed, so that the knitted and woven fabric is poor in flexibility, tension, and stiffness, and moreover, the spontaneously extensible filaments are easily cut to cause fluffing. .

【0027】[0027]

【実施例】図2は、この発明の編織物用複合糸の製造に
適した装置の一例を示し、Ab は自発伸長性ポリエステ
ルマルチフィラメント糸Aの原料となる第1ポリエステ
ル未延伸糸であり、この第1ポリエステル未延伸糸Ab
は、第1巻糸Aa から引出され、ガイド11、フィード
ローラ12、ホットローラ13を経てオーバーフィード
ローラ14に送られ、この間に温度Tg 〜Tg +20℃で
延伸され、次いで上記のオーバーフィードローラ14か
ら温度170 ℃〜Tm −10℃の非接触式ヒータ15を経て
第1デリベリローラ16に送られ、この間に弛緩状態で
熱処理されて自発伸長性ポリエステルマルチフィラメン
ト糸Aが得られる。
EXAMPLE FIG. 2 shows an example of an apparatus suitable for producing the composite yarn for knitted fabric of the present invention, Ab is a first polyester undrawn yarn which is a raw material of the spontaneously extensible polyester multifilament yarn A, This first polyester undrawn yarn Ab
Is drawn from the first wound yarn Aa, sent to the overfeed roller 14 via the guide 11, the feed roller 12, and the hot roller 13, and is stretched at a temperature of Tg to Tg + 20 ° C., and then the above-mentioned overfeed roller 14 is drawn. Is sent to the first delivery roller 16 through the non-contact heater 15 having a temperature of 170 ° C. to Tm −10 ° C., and is heat-treated in a relaxed state during this time to obtain the spontaneously extensible polyester multifilament yarn A.

【0028】この自発伸長性ポリエステルマルチフィラ
メント糸Aは、第4巻糸Da からガイド11aを経て引
出された複合仮撚糸Dと上記の第1デリベリローラ16
において重ねられ、しかるのちエアジェットノズル17
に送られて複合仮撚糸Dと交絡され、この交絡で得られ
た編織物用複合糸Eが第2デリベリローラ18および巻
取りローラ19を経て第5巻糸Ea に巻取られる。
This spontaneously extensible polyester multifilament yarn A comprises a composite false twisted yarn D drawn from a fourth winding yarn Da through a guide 11a and the first delivery roller 16 described above.
In the air jet nozzle 17
Sent to and entangled with the composite false twisted yarn D, and the composite yarn E for knitted fabric obtained by this entanglement is wound around the fifth wound yarn Ea via the second delivery roller 18 and the winding roller 19.

【0029】図3は、上記の複合仮撚糸Dの製造に適し
た延伸仮撚機の一例である。図において、Bbは破断伸
度が比較的小さい第2ポリエステル未延伸糸、Cbは破
断伸度が比較的大きい第3ポリエステル未延伸糸であ
り、それぞれが第2巻糸Baおよび第3巻糸Caから第
1ガイド21、21を経て引出され、集束ガイド22に
おいて集束された後、フィードローラ23から混繊・交
絡用のエアジェットノズル24に送られて混繊・交絡さ
れ、次いで第1デリベリローラ25、ヒーター26、仮
撚りスピンドル27および第2デリベリローラ28に順
に導かれ、この間に延伸されると同時に仮撚りされ、上
記の第2ポリエステル未延伸糸Bbからなる第2ポリエ
ステル延伸糸Bの回りに上記の第3ポリエステル未延伸
糸Cbからなる第3ポリエステル延伸糸Cが交互撚糸状
に巻き付いた複合仮撚糸Dが得られ、この複合仮撚糸D
が巻取ローラ29で駆動される第4巻糸Da に巻取られ
る。
FIG. 3 shows an example of a drawing false twisting machine suitable for producing the above-mentioned composite false twisting yarn D. In the figure, Bb is a second polyester undrawn yarn having a relatively small breaking elongation, Cb is a third polyester undrawn yarn having a relatively large breaking elongation, and each is a second wound yarn Ba and a third wound yarn Ca. From the first guide 21, through the first guide 21, and after being converged by the converging guide 22, sent from the feed roller 23 to the air jet nozzle 24 for mixed fiber / entanglement, and mixed / entangled, and then the first delivery roller 25. , The heater 26, the false twisting spindle 27, and the second delivery roller 28 in that order, while being drawn during this time, false twisting is performed around the second polyester stretched yarn B composed of the second polyester unstretched yarn Bb. A composite false twisted yarn D in which a third polyester stretched yarn C composed of the third polyester unstretched yarn Cb is wound in an alternate twisted yarn shape is obtained. Thread D
Is wound on the fourth winding yarn Da driven by the winding roller 29.

【0030】通常のポリエチレンテレフタレートを常法
で紡糸し、巻取速度3000m/分で巻取り、得られた
第1ポリエステル未延伸糸Ab を図2の装置に供給し、
フィードローラ12とオーバーフィードローラ14の間
で延伸し、更にオーバーフィードローラ14と第1デリ
ベリローラ16の間で弛緩熱処理を行い、その際、紡糸
時の吐出量、上記延伸時の延伸倍率、弛緩熱処理時のリ
ラックス率、リラックス温度およびセット時間を種々に
変更して破断伸度、熱水収縮率および160℃における
乾熱収縮率が異なる10種類のマルチフィラメント糸A
を製造した。なお、フィラメントの断面形状は三角形と
した。この10種類のマルチフィラメント糸Aの物性を
下記の表1に示す。
Conventional polyethylene terephthalate was spun by a conventional method and wound at a winding speed of 3000 m / min, and the obtained first polyester undrawn yarn Ab was supplied to the apparatus shown in FIG.
Stretching is performed between the feed roller 12 and the overfeed roller 14, and relaxation heat treatment is further performed between the overfeed roller 14 and the first delivery roller 16, in which case the discharge amount during spinning, the stretching ratio during stretching, and the relaxation heat treatment. Ten Multifilament Yarns A with Different Breaking Elongation, Hot Water Shrinkage, and Dry Heat Shrinkage at 160 ° C by Variously Changing the Relaxation Rate at Time, Relaxing Temperature and Setting Time
Was manufactured. The cross-sectional shape of the filament was triangular. The physical properties of these 10 types of multifilament yarns A are shown in Table 1 below.

【0031】 表 1 太さ フィラメント数 破断伸度 熱水収縮率 乾熱収縮率 (デニール) (本) (%) (%) (%) 実施例1 60 36 75 −0.5 −5.5 実施例2 40 24 73 −0.5 −5.7 比較例1 60 36 87 −5.5 −8.5 比較例2 60 36 53 +3.0 +5.0 比較例3 90 54 76 −0.7 −5.5 比較例4 30 18 76 −0.5 −5.0 比較例5 60 36 75 −0.5 −5.5 比較例6 60 36 75 −0.5 −5.5 比較例7 60 18 70 −1.0 −5.0 比較例8 60 36 75 −0.5 −5.5Table 1 Thickness Filament Number Breaking Elongation Hot Water Shrinkage Dry Heat Shrinkage (Denier) (Book) (%) (%) (%) Example 1 60 36 75 -0.5 -5.5 Implementation Example 2 40 24 73 -0.5 -5.7 Comparative example 1 60 36 87 -5.5 -8.5 Comparative example 2 60 36 53 +3.0 +5.0 Comparative example 3 90 54 76 -0.7- 5.5 Comparative Example 4 30 18 76 -0.5 -5.0 Comparative Example 5 60 36 75 -0.5 -5.5 Comparative Example 6 60 36 36 75 -0.5 -5.5 Comparative Example 7 60 18 70-1.0-5.0 Comparative Example 8 60 36 75 -0.5 -5.5

【0032】一方、複合仮撚糸D用として通常のポリエ
チレンテレフタレートを常法で紡糸し、2種類の巻取速
度2600m/分および3600m/分で巻取って2種
類の未延伸糸Bb およびCb を製造し、これを図3の延
伸仮撚り機に仕掛け、その際、紡糸時の吐出量、延伸仮
撚り時の延伸倍率、仮撚り数、仮撚り温度、セット時間
を種々に変更して太さ、熱水収縮率、乾熱収縮率および
糸長差が種々に異なる9種類の複合仮撚糸Dを製造し
た。また、比較例8用とし、上記の複合仮撚糸に代えて
生糸(60デニール、24フィラメント)を用意した。
得られた延伸糸B、Cの構成を表2に、複合仮撚糸の構
成および物性を表3にそれぞれ示す。なお、上記延伸糸
BおよびCは、フィラメントの断面を円形とした。
On the other hand, for the composite false twisted yarn D, ordinary polyethylene terephthalate is spun by a conventional method and wound at two winding speeds of 2600 m / min and 3600 m / min to produce two types of undrawn yarns Bb and Cb. Then, this was set in the draw false twisting machine of FIG. 3, and at that time, the discharge amount at the time of spinning, the draw ratio at the time of draw false twist, the number of false twists, the false twist temperature, and the setting time were variously changed to obtain a thickness Nine types of composite false twisted yarns D having different hot water shrinkage, dry heat shrinkage and yarn length difference were produced. Further, for Comparative Example 8, raw yarn (60 denier, 24 filaments) was prepared in place of the above composite false twisted yarn.
Table 2 shows the configurations of the obtained drawn yarns B and C, and Table 3 shows the configurations and physical properties of the composite false twisted yarns. In the drawn yarns B and C, the filament has a circular cross section.

【0033】 表 2 延伸糸B 延伸糸C 太さ フィラメント数 太さ フィラメント数 (デニール) (本) (デニール) (本) 実施例1 30 12 30 12 実施例2 40 16 40 16 比較例1 30 12 30 12 比較例2 30 12 30 12 比較例3 15 9 15 9 比較例4 45 27 45 27 比較例5 30 12 30 12 比較例6 30 12 30 12 比較例7 30 12 30 12 比較例8 (生糸60デニール24フィラメント)Table 2 Stretched yarn B Stretched yarn C Thickness Filament number Thickness Filament number (denier) (book) (denier) (book) Example 1 30 12 30 12 Example 2 40 16 40 16 16 Comparative Example 1 30 12 30 12 Comparative Example 2 30 12 30 12 Comparative Example 3 15 9 15 9 Comparative Example 4 45 27 45 27 Comparative Example 5 30 12 30 12 Comparative Example 6 30 12 30 12 Comparative Example 7 30 12 30 12 Comparative Example 8 (raw silk 60 Denier 24 filament)

【0034】 表 3 太さ フィラメント数 熱水収縮率 乾熱収縮率 糸長差 (デニール) (本) (%) (%) (%) 実施例1 60 24 3.9 4.9 7.0 実施例2 80 32 3.7 4.8 6.8 比較例1 60 24 3.9 4.9 7.0 比較例2 60 24 3.9 4.9 7.0 比較例3 30 18 3.5 4.6 6.7 比較例4 90 54 4.1 5.3 7.3 比較例5 60 24 3.9 4.9 7.0 比較例6 60 24 3.9 4.9 7.0 比較例7 60 24 3.9 4.9 7.0 比較例8 (生糸60d/24f) 7.9 10.0 −Table 3 Thickness Filament Number Hot Water Shrinkage Dry Heat Shrinkage Thread Length Difference (Denier) (Book) (%) (%) (%) Example 1 60 24 3.9 4.9 7.0 Implementation Example 2 80 32 3.7 4.8 6.8 Comparative Example 1 60 24 3.9 4.9 7.0 Comparative Example 2 60 24 3.9 4.9 7.0 Comparative Example 3 30 18 3.5 4 .6 6.7 Comparative Example 4 90 54 4.1 5.3 5.3 7.3 Comparative Example 5 60 24 3.9 4.9 7.0 Comparative Example 6 60 24 3.9 4.9 7.0 Comparative Example 7 60 24 3.9 4.9 7.0 Comparative Example 8 (raw silk 60d / 24f) 7.9 10.0-

【0035】表1のマルチフィラメント糸Aおよび表3
の複合仮撚糸Dを図2の第1デリベリローラ16で重
ね、エアジェットノズル17で交絡した。得られた複合
糸Eをデシン用として通常の方法で撚糸してデシンを製
織し、染色、仕上げ熱セットを施した。上記複合糸の物
性を測定し、得られた布帛の風合い、上記の撚糸から製
織に至る工程通過性を判定した。その結果を表4に示
す。
Multifilament yarn A of Table 1 and Table 3
The composite false-twisted yarn D of No. 1 was overlapped with the first delivery roller 16 of FIG. 2 and entangled with the air jet nozzle 17. The obtained composite yarn E was twisted by a usual method for decyn to weave the decine, and dyed and finish heat set. The physical properties of the composite yarn were measured, and the texture of the obtained fabric and the process passability from the twisted yarn to the weaving were determined. The results are shown in Table 4.

【0036】 表 4 混率 ΔSHD 交絡度 布帛風合 工程通過性 総合評価 (%) (%)(個/m) 実施例1 50 10.4 48 ◎ ◎ ◎ 実施例2 67 10.5 50 ◎ ◎ ◎ 比較例1 50 13.4 48 △ △ △ 比較例2 50 − 0.1 47 × △ × 比較例3 25 10.1 56 △ △ △ 比較例4 75 10.3 42 × ○ × 比較例5 50 10.4 15 △ △ △ 比較例6 50 10.4 110 △ ○ △ 比較例7 50 9.9 43 △ ○ △ 比較例8 50 15.5 59 △ ◎ △Table 4 Mixing ratio ΔSHD Entanglement degree Fabric touch Process passability Overall evaluation (%) (%) (pieces / m) Example 1 50 10.4 48 ◎ ◎ ◎ ◎ Example 2 67 10.5 50 ◎ ◎ ◎ ◎ Comparative Example 1 50 13.4 48 △ △ △ Comparative Example 2 50-0.1 47 × △ × Comparative Example 3 25 10.1 56 △ △ △ Comparative Example 4 75 10.3 42 × ○ × Comparative Example 5 50 10.4 15 △ △ △ Comparative Example 6 50 10.4 110 △ ○ △ Comparative Example 7 50 9.9 43 △ ○ △ Comparative Example 8 50 15.5 59 △ ◎ △

【0037】ただし、表中の混率は複合糸に対する複合
仮撚糸のデニール構成比率(%)であり、ΔSHDは複
合仮撚糸Dおよび自発伸長性マルチフィラメント糸A間
の乾熱収縮率差である。また、布帛風合いは、ソフト
感、膨らみ、張り、腰、ドレープ性を総合評価し、◎、
○、△、×の順に4段階評価をした。また、工程通過性
は、撚糸での糸切れおよび織機の稼働状況を◎、○、
△、×の順に4段階に評価した。また、総合評価は、布
帛風合いと工程通過性を総合し、◎、○、△、×の順に
4段階に評価した。
However, the mixing ratio in the table is the denier component ratio (%) of the composite false twisted yarn to the composite yarn, and ΔSHD is the difference in dry heat shrinkage between the composite false twisted yarn D and the spontaneously extensible multifilament yarn A. In addition, the fabric texture is comprehensively evaluated for softness, bulge, tension, waist, and drapeability, and ◎,
Four-level evaluation was performed in the order of ○, △, and ×. In addition, the process passability is determined by the yarn breakage in the twisted yarn and the operating condition of the loom ◎, ○,
Evaluation was made in four levels in the order of Δ and ×. In the overall evaluation, the fabric texture and the process passability were comprehensively evaluated, and the evaluation was made in four stages in the order of ⊚, ◯, Δ, and ×.

【0038】上記の表1〜4から明らかなとおり、実施
例1および実施例2は、風合いおよび工程通過性が共に
良好であった。これに対し、比較例1は、マルチフィラ
メント糸Aの自発伸長性が過大であるため、糊付け工程
で複合仮撚糸との間の糸長差が発現し、製織時に経糸が
筬やヘルドでしごかれて糸切れが増大した。比較例2
は、熱収縮率が大きくて自発伸長性を欠如するため、仕
上げの熱セットによっても布表面にフィラメントのルー
プが突出せず、ソフト性と膨らみに欠けていた。比較例
3は、複合仮撚糸の混率が小さくて25%であるため、
この複合仮撚糸と自発伸長性マルチフィラメント糸とか
らなる複合糸全体の強力が小さくなり、糸切れが発生す
ると共に、風合い面でも張り、腰が不十分であった。
As is clear from Tables 1 to 4 above, Example 1 and Example 2 were good in both texture and process passability. On the other hand, in Comparative Example 1, since the spontaneous elongation of the multifilament yarn A is excessively large, a yarn length difference between the multifilament yarn and the composite false twisted yarn is developed in the sizing step, and the warp yarn is a reed or heddle during weaving. The yarn breakage increased due to the breakage. Comparative example 2
Had a high heat shrinkage and lacked spontaneous stretchability, so even after the heat setting for finishing, the loops of filaments did not protrude to the surface of the cloth, and the softness and bulge were lacking. In Comparative Example 3, since the mixing ratio of the composite false twisted yarn is small and is 25%,
The overall strength of the composite yarn composed of the composite false-twisted yarn and the spontaneously extensible multifilament yarn was reduced, and yarn breakage occurred, and the texture was tight and the stiffness was insufficient.

【0039】また、比較例4は、複合仮撚糸の混率が反
対に大きくて75%であるため、布表面に突出するフィ
ラメントループが少なくなり、ソフト性、膨らみに欠け
ていた。比較例5は、自発伸長性マルチフィラメント糸
と複合仮撚糸の交絡度が低いため、交絡により複合した
後に分離し、工程通過性が悪くなった。比較例6は、反
対に交絡度が高いため、布表面に突出するループが減少
し、かつ複合仮撚糸の交互撚糸構造が部分的に破壊さ
れ、複合糸のソフト性、膨らみ、張り、腰が不十分であ
った。比較例7は、自発伸長性マルチフィラメント糸が
60デニール18フィラメントで、その構成フィラメン
トの平均繊度が3デニールを超えるため、仕上げ後の布
の風合いガソフト性に欠けていた。また、比較例8は、
複合仮撚糸の代わりに生糸60デニール36フィラメン
トを使用したため、ソフト感、膨らみ、張り、腰、ドレ
ープ性に欠けていた。
In Comparative Example 4, the composite false-twisted yarn had a large mixing ratio of 75% on the contrary. Therefore, the number of filament loops protruding on the surface of the fabric was small, and the softness and bulge were lacking. In Comparative Example 5, since the degree of entanglement between the spontaneously extensible multifilament yarn and the composite false twisted yarn was low, they were separated after being combined by entanglement and the process passability was poor. In Comparative Example 6, on the contrary, since the degree of entanglement is high, the number of loops protruding on the fabric surface is reduced, and the alternate twisted yarn structure of the composite false twisted yarn is partially destroyed, so that the softness, swelling, tension and waist of the composite yarn are reduced. It was insufficient. In Comparative Example 7, since the spontaneously extensible multifilament yarn was 60 denier 18 filaments, and the average fineness of the constituent filaments thereof exceeded 3 denier, the fabric after finishing lacked in texture softness. In addition, Comparative Example 8
Since 60 denier 36 filaments of raw yarn were used instead of the composite false-twisted yarn, it lacked in softness, swelling, tension, waist, and drapeability.

【0040】[0040]

【発明の効果】上記のとおり、この発明の編織物用複合
糸は、自発伸長性のポリエステルマルチフィラメント糸
と、熱収縮性を有し破断伸度が異なる2種以上のポリエ
ステルマルチフィラメント糸からなる複合仮撚糸とを交
絡により複合したものであるから、編織して最終の仕上
げ熱セットを施すまでは、自発伸長性ポリエステルマル
チフィラメント糸の伸長が発現されず、そのため編織準
備工程から編織工程に至るまでの工程通過性が良好であ
り、しかも上記の仕上げ熱セットにより自発伸長性ポリ
エステルマルチフィラメント糸が伸長し、複合仮撚糸と
の間に糸長差が発現すると、自発伸長性ポリエステルマ
ルチフィラメント糸の構成フィラメントが布表面にルー
プ状に突出して表面タッチをソフトにし、かつ複合糸の
芯部が伸度の異なる2種の糸からなる複合仮撚糸で形成
され、この複合仮撚糸が低伸度糸の回りに高伸度糸が巻
付いた交互撚糸状のものであるため、従来の異収縮混繊
糸を使用した布帛に比べてソフト感、膨らみ、張り、
腰、ドレープ性等の点ですぐれた風合いを呈する。
As described above, the composite yarn for knitted fabric of the present invention comprises a spontaneously extensible polyester multifilament yarn and two or more kinds of polyester multifilament yarns having heat shrinkability and different breaking elongations. Since the composite false-twisted yarn is compounded by entanglement, the elongation of the spontaneously extensible polyester multifilament yarn is not expressed until the final finishing heat setting is performed by knitting, and therefore the knitting and weaving preparation process to the weaving process are performed. If the yarn length difference between the self-stretching polyester multifilament yarn and the composite false-twist yarn is caused by the finish heat setting and the yarn length difference between the yarn and the composite false-twist yarn occurs, The constituent filaments project in a loop on the fabric surface to soften the surface touch, and the core of the composite yarn has a different elongation. It is made of a composite false twisted yarn consisting of two types of yarns, and since this composite false twisted yarn is an alternate twisted yarn in which a high elongation yarn is wound around a low elongation yarn, Softness, bulge, tension, compared to the fabric used
It has an excellent texture in terms of waist and drape.

【図面の簡単な説明】[Brief description of drawings]

【図1】仕上げ熱セット後における実施例の断面図であ
る。
FIG. 1 is a sectional view of an example after finishing heat setting.

【図2】実施例の製造装置を示す正面図である。FIG. 2 is a front view showing the manufacturing apparatus of the embodiment.

【図3】複合仮撚糸の製造装置を示す正面図である。FIG. 3 is a front view showing an apparatus for producing a composite false twisted yarn.

【符号の説明】[Explanation of symbols]

A:自発伸長性ポリエステルマルチフィラメント糸 Aa :第1巻糸 Ab :第1ポリエステル未延伸糸 B:第2ポリエステル延伸糸 Ba :第2巻糸 Bb :第2ポリエステル未延伸糸 C:第3ポリエステル延伸糸 Ca : 第3巻糸 Cb :第3ポリエステル未延伸糸 D:複合仮撚糸 Da :第4巻糸 E:編織物用複合糸 Ea :第5巻糸 11、11a:ガイド 12:フィードローラ 13:ホットローラ 14:オーバーフィードローラ 15:非接触式ヒータ 16:第1デリベリローラ 17:エアジェットノズル 18:第2デリベリローラ 19:巻取りローラ 21:第1ガイド 22:集束ガイド 23:フィードローラ 24:エアジェットノズル 25:第1デリベリローラ 26:ヒーター 27:仮撚りスピンドル 28:第2デリベリローラ 29:巻取りローラ A: Spontaneous stretchable polyester multifilament yarn Aa: First wound yarn Ab: First polyester unstretched yarn B: Second polyester stretched yarn Ba: Second wound yarn Bb: Second polyester unstretched yarn C: Third polyester stretched yarn Yarn Ca: Third winding yarn Cb: Third polyester undrawn yarn D: Composite false twist yarn Da: Fourth winding yarn E: Composite yarn for knitted fabric Ea: Fifth winding yarn 11, 11a: Guide 12: Feed roller 13: Hot roller 14: Overfeed roller 15: Non-contact heater 16: First delivery roller 17: Air jet nozzle 18: Second delivery roller 19: Winding roller 21: First guide 22: Focusing guide 23: Feed roller 24: Air jet Nozzle 25: First delivery roller 26: Heater 27: False twist spindle 28: Second delivery roller 29: Take roller

Claims (1)

【特許請求の範囲】[Claims] 【請求項1】 自発伸長性のポリエステルマルチフィラ
メント糸と、熱収縮性を有し破断伸度が異なる2種以上
のポリエステルマルチフィラメント糸からなる複合仮撚
糸とを交絡してなる編織物用複合糸であり、その交絡度
が20〜100個/m、該複合糸における上記複合仮撚
糸の混用率がデニール比で30〜70%であり、上記の
自発伸長性ポリエステルマルチフィラメント糸が繊度3
デニール以下のフィラメント5本以上からなり、その熱
水収縮率が−2%以上、温度160℃における乾熱収縮
率が0%以下、破断伸度が50%以上であり、上記の複
合仮撚糸が該複合仮撚糸を形成する比較的低伸度のマル
チフィラメント糸の回りに比較的高伸度のマルチフィラ
メント糸を交互撚糸状に巻き付けて形成され、この複合
仮撚糸の熱水収縮率が0%以上であって、温度160℃
における乾熱収縮率が上記自発伸長性ポリエステルマル
チフィラメント糸の乾熱収縮率よりも5%以上大きいこ
とを特徴とする編織物用複合糸。
1. A composite yarn for knitting and woven fabric, which is formed by intertwining a spontaneously extensible polyester multifilament yarn and a composite false twisted yarn composed of two or more kinds of polyester multifilament yarns having heat shrinkability and different breaking elongations. The entanglement degree is 20 to 100 pieces / m, the mixing rate of the composite false twisted yarn in the composite yarn is 30 to 70% in denier ratio, and the spontaneously stretchable polyester multifilament yarn has a fineness of 3
The filament is composed of 5 or more filaments having a denier or less, the hot water shrinkage rate is -2% or more, the dry heat shrinkage rate at a temperature of 160 ° C is 0% or less, and the breaking elongation is 50% or more. The composite false-twisted yarn is formed by winding a relatively high-elongation multifilament yarn around the relatively low-elongation multifilament yarn in an alternating twisted yarn shape, and the hot-water shrinkage of the composite false-twisted yarn is 0%. Above, temperature 160 ℃
And a dry heat shrinkage of the spontaneously stretchable polyester multifilament yarn of 5% or more.
JP25913393A 1993-09-22 1993-09-22 Composite yarn for knitted fabric Expired - Lifetime JP3275478B2 (en)

Priority Applications (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
JP25913393A JP3275478B2 (en) 1993-09-22 1993-09-22 Composite yarn for knitted fabric

Applications Claiming Priority (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
JP25913393A JP3275478B2 (en) 1993-09-22 1993-09-22 Composite yarn for knitted fabric

Publications (2)

Publication Number Publication Date
JPH0797731A true JPH0797731A (en) 1995-04-11
JP3275478B2 JP3275478B2 (en) 2002-04-15

Family

ID=17329785

Family Applications (1)

Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
JP25913393A Expired - Lifetime JP3275478B2 (en) 1993-09-22 1993-09-22 Composite yarn for knitted fabric

Country Status (1)

Country Link
JP (1) JP3275478B2 (en)

Cited By (6)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
JPH11247048A (en) * 1998-03-02 1999-09-14 Toyobo Co Ltd Woven fabric of polyester composite yarn and its production
EP2360301A1 (en) * 2008-11-27 2011-08-24 Teijin Fibers Limited Antistatic ultrafine fibers and method for producing the same
CN106367858A (en) * 2015-07-20 2017-02-01 东丽纤维研究所(中国)有限公司 False twist yarn and elastic textile containing the false twist yarn
EP3199676A4 (en) * 2015-12-02 2018-05-30 Clembon Co., Ltd. Yarn, fabric manufactured using same, and product
CN112647173A (en) * 2020-12-14 2021-04-13 海安中纺院纤维新材料科技有限公司 Fluffy nylon filament and preparation method thereof
CN113056580A (en) * 2018-11-27 2021-06-29 帝人富瑞特株式会社 Fabric and textile product

Cited By (8)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
JPH11247048A (en) * 1998-03-02 1999-09-14 Toyobo Co Ltd Woven fabric of polyester composite yarn and its production
EP2360301A1 (en) * 2008-11-27 2011-08-24 Teijin Fibers Limited Antistatic ultrafine fibers and method for producing the same
EP2360301A4 (en) * 2008-11-27 2012-10-03 Teijin Fibers Ltd Antistatic ultrafine fibers and method for producing the same
CN106367858A (en) * 2015-07-20 2017-02-01 东丽纤维研究所(中国)有限公司 False twist yarn and elastic textile containing the false twist yarn
EP3199676A4 (en) * 2015-12-02 2018-05-30 Clembon Co., Ltd. Yarn, fabric manufactured using same, and product
CN113056580A (en) * 2018-11-27 2021-06-29 帝人富瑞特株式会社 Fabric and textile product
EP3889329A4 (en) * 2018-11-27 2022-01-19 Teijin Frontier Co., Ltd. Cloth and fiber article
CN112647173A (en) * 2020-12-14 2021-04-13 海安中纺院纤维新材料科技有限公司 Fluffy nylon filament and preparation method thereof

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