JP2000129555A - Polyester woven fabric - Google Patents

Abstract

PROBLEM TO BE SOLVED: To obtain an inexpensive thin polyester stretch woven fabric comprising crimpable conjugate polyester multifilament yarns with thermal shrinkage varied therewithin and having crepe-free surface feeling, moderate dry touch and moderate lateral stretchability. SOLUTION: This polyester woven fabric is obtained by using, as warps, polyester multifilament yarns <=85 dtex in fineness, and as wefts, side-by-side or sheath-core type crimpable conjugate polyester multifilament yarns <=85 dtex in fineness composed of at least two kinds of polyester polymer with thermal shrinkage varied therewithin. This woven fabric thus obtained has a basis weight of <=150 g/m2 and satisfies the relationship between the number of twists for the wefts, warp density and texture as described below: Hw/ Pw×1.3>Tf>Hw/Pw×0.7 (wherein Tf is the number of twists for the wefts per cm of the finished woven fabric; Hw is the number of the warps per cm of the finished woven fabric; Pw is the number of the warps per perfect texture of the woven fabric).

Description

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0001]

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION 1. Field of the Invention The present invention relates to a polyester weft stretch fabric made of a polyester multifilament yarn and using a crimpable conjugate multifilament having different heat shrinkage as the weft yarn. More specifically, compared to the conventional woven fabric using polyurethane elastic yarn, it can be manufactured at a lower cost, and the handleability in the weaving process is better than that of the conventional false twisted yarn using high torque yarn. The present invention relates to a polyester horizontal stretch fabric.

[0002]

2. Description of the Related Art Synthetic fiber woven fabrics have been imitating all of the appearance and touch of natural fibers, but in recent years, so-called synthetic fibers, which are completely different from natural fibers in texture and appearance sensation represented by a touch feeling. There is a movement to develop something with a unique feeling. Furthermore, in pursuit of the uniqueness of synthetic fibers, in terms of functionality, those that eliminate the disadvantages of conventional synthetic fibers, such as water absorption, sweat absorption, antistatic,
Or, for antifouling properties, various approaches have been developed from both physical and scientific approaches.

[0003] Another concept of functionality is an approach based on properties that synthetic fibers are good at, that is, properties that natural fibers are not good at, such as stretchability.
Conventionally, stretchability is mainly based on the use of polyurethane-based elastic fibers, that is, spandex covering yarn, but this woven fabric has a problem in cost in terms of raw yarn and higher processing costs.

For the purpose of cost reduction, stretchable woven fabrics using crimps of false twisted yarns have been studied.
In the case of a thin woven fabric, if only a weft yarn is used as a false twisting yarn, a woven fabric having sufficient elasticity cannot be obtained due to the appearance of surface texture and insufficient crimping force. Japanese Patent Publication No. Hei 8-30297 and Japanese Patent Laid-Open Publication No. H10-195732 propose a method for producing a thin, highly stretchable woven fabric that has high elasticity and is free of grain using temporary twisted yarn.
Both of the proposed manufacturing methods are devised in provisional twisting conditions and in the direction of first twist or additional twist in order to obtain a high crimp rate and high torque. However, in the production process, false twisting after pre-twisting causes yarn breakage at the time of false twisting, and sometimes reduces production efficiency. In addition, in the method of twisting, a high crimp and a high torque false twist yarn are used, so that a yarn breakage problem at the time of twisting sometimes occurs. Furthermore, in weaving using weft yarns, only high-torque yarns require advanced technology for handling, and weaving stops are numerous during weaving. Difficult to produce. In addition, since false twisting is performed in spite of strong twisting, the texture has a disadvantage that the original feeling of slipping is impaired. On the other hand, in order to impart stretchability to a conjugate yarn in which two different components are arranged in parallel, there is an example in which the conjugate yarn is subjected to temporary twist processing. A similar problem arises.

[0005] In addition, in order to generate a crimp by performing latent crimping heat treatment on the conjugate yarn and obtain a bulky yarn or a bulky woven fabric, it is particularly necessary to perform a relaxation heat treatment on the composite drawn yarns arranged in parallel. It is proposed in Japanese Patent Publication No. 51-37376 and Japanese Patent Publication No. 57-25650. These are based on the idea of increasing the subsequent crimping force by performing a relaxation heat treatment under a minute tension, but it is not shown to obtain stretchability, and high stretch cannot be expected.

[0006]

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION An object of the present invention is to provide a low-cost crimp-free conjugate multifilament having different heat shrinkage, which has a surface feeling free of grain, a moderate dry feeling, and a moderate horizontal stretching property. The object of the present invention is to provide a thin polyester stretch thin fabric.

[0007]

The present invention has the following arrangement to solve the above-mentioned problems.

That is, a polyester multifilament yarn of 85 dtex or less as a warp yarn, and a conjugate multifilament yarn of 85 dtex or less as a weft yarn in which at least two polyester polymers having different heat shrinkages are joined in parallel or in a core / sheath manner. The polyester woven fabric used has a relationship between the number of weft yarns on the woven fabric, the woven warp yarn density and the woven fabric satisfying the following formula, and has a basis weight of 150 g / m ² or less.

Hw / Pw × 1.3>Tf> Hw
/Pw×0.7 Tf = Number of weft yarns between 1 cm on the finished fabric Hw = Number of warp yarns on the finished fabric 1 cm Pw = Number of warp yarns in the complete fabric 1

[0010]

DESCRIPTION OF THE PREFERRED EMBODIMENTS The warp yarn used in the present invention has a basis weight of 1
It is intended for thin fabrics of 50 g / m ² or less, and 85 dtex or less, preferably 33 to 56 dtex.
A thin polyester multifilament yarn having a thickness in the range of 1 to 3 is required.

The constituent single fiber fineness and cross-sectional shape of the polyester multifilament yarn are not particularly limited, but the constituent single fiber fineness is preferably 0.5 to 5.5 dtex. The cross-sectional form of the polyester multifilament yarn is not particularly limited, and any of a normal cross-section yarn, a triangular cross-section, other polygonal cross-section yarns, and a flat cross-section yarn can be used. Also, hollow section yarns can be used.

The weft yarn used in the present invention is a polyester multifilament yarn whose main repeating unit is composed of ethylene terephthalate, and has different heat shrinkability.
A crimp-expressing conjugate multifilament yarn joined in parallel or in a core-sheath manner using various types of polyester polymers is used. This weft is subjected to twisting and heat treatment of the woven fabric to obtain stretchability. That is, when the conjugated multifilament yarn is twisted in an aggregated state and heat-treated, helical crimp is developed in the length direction of the fiber, and the lateral stretchability of the woven fabric can be increased. The conjugated multifilament yarn used in the present invention is intended for a polyester multifilament yarn whose main repeating unit is composed of ethylene terephthalate, and uses two types of polyester polymers having different heat shrinkage characteristics. Examples of the polyester polymer having a different heat shrinkability include a polyester homopolymer having a different degree of polymerization, a copolymer obtained by copolymerizing a third component other than a terephthalic acid component and / or an ethylene glycol component, and other polymers. May be blended.

Specifically, as the polyester polymer having a different heat shrinkability used in the present invention, polyethylene terephthalate alone or ethylene terephthalate unit 80
Copolyesters containing at least mol% are preferred. As the copolymerization component of the copolyester, known components such as isophthalic acid, isophthalic acid having a metal sulfonate group, bisphenols, neopentyl glycol or 1,6-cyclohexanediol can be used. Also,
Other modifiers such as a matting agent, an ultraviolet absorber, a dye-improving component, and a pigment can be compounded in the polyester.

It is important that the conjugated multifilament yarn of the present invention has the property of developing helical crimp by relaxation heat treatment. In order to obtain a conjugated multifilament yarn having such properties, the properties of the polyester polymer and the spinning / drawing conditions are important.

As the two-component polyester polymers having different heat shrinkages, those having one as a low-viscosity polyester and the other as a high-viscosity component are preferably used. In the case of a homopolyester, the intrinsic viscosity of the low-viscosity polyester component is preferably in the range of 0.35 to 0.60, and the intrinsic viscosity of the high-viscosity polyester component is preferably in the range of 0.65 to 0.85. The limiting viscosity of the low viscosity polyester component is 0.3
If it is less than 5, the melt viscosity will be low, and it will be difficult to spin. The intrinsic viscosity of the low-viscosity polyester component is 0.5
If it exceeds 5, the conjugate multifilament will have poor crimp expression ability, and the helical crimp expression ability will be reduced. The intrinsic viscosity of the high-viscosity polyester component is 0.1.
If it exceeds 85, the melt viscosity becomes high, so that spinning and drawing become difficult. When the intrinsic viscosity of the high-viscosity polyester component is less than 0.65, the crimp developing power tends to be poor.

The difference in intrinsic viscosity between the low-viscosity polyester component and the high-viscosity polyester component is preferably in the range of 0.20 to 0.40. However, when a copolyester component is used for one of the components, the intrinsic viscosity difference between the two components can be further reduced.

Here, the intrinsic viscosity [η] was determined as an orthochlorophenol solution at a temperature of 25 ° C.

With regard to the conjugated multifilament yarn used here, when spinning two kinds of polyester polymers, there is a suitable composite ratio between the low-viscosity polyester component and the high-viscosity polyester component. That is, the composite ratio of the low-viscosity polyester component and the high-viscosity polyester component is preferably 35 to 65:65 to 35 by weight, and
0-60: 60-40 is more preferable.

The composite form of the conjugated multifilament yarn may be any form in which the two components are arranged in parallel or in a core / sheath arrangement, but the parallel form is more effective in developing latent crimp (coil diameter). Is large, and the number of expressed crimps is large). The composite ratio and the arrangement form of the two components are related to the size of the diameter of the helical coil of crimp developed in the relaxation heat treatment of the conjugate fiber, and the larger the coil diameter, the greater the stretching effect.

The spinning speed for obtaining such a crimpable conjugate multifilament yarn is usually 1000
Any of a low-speed region of not less than m / min to a high-speed region of not less than 2500 m / min may be used.

The stretching of the spun undrawn yarn and semi-drawn yarn is performed as follows.
It is possible to draw with a normal drawing device, and the strength and elongation level of the obtained drawn yarn with respect to the strength and elongation characteristics of the undrawn yarn and the semi-drawn yarn, and under the condition that fuzz does not occur, It is desirable to set conditions under which a large shrinkage stress can be obtained by the relaxation heat treatment. The larger the shrinkage stress, the more the crimping ability of the conjugated multifilament yarn can be increased, whereby the hollow structure of the helical coil due to the crimping can be obtained by the relaxation heat treatment of the woven fabric in the subsequent step.

As the drawn yarn, the fineness of the single fiber constituting the conjugate multifilament yarn is 1.1 to 15 dt.
ex is preferred, and more preferably 2 to 10 dtex. In the area thinner than 1.1 dtex, there is a point that it is difficult to make a thread with the current state of the art, but there is a limit in forming a spiral coil, and when it is larger than 15 dtex, it is softer than a straight structure in clothing use because of the spiral structure, The texture tends to be hard.

The fineness of the conjugate multifilament yarn used for the weft yarn is the same as that of the warp yarn, but for thin fabrics of 150 g / m ² or less, a thin polyester multifilament yarn of 85 dtex or less, preferably 33 to 56 dtex is required. Becomes The higher the shrinkage stress of the conjugated multifilament yarn is, the more preferable it is to increase the expression of latent crimp. Therefore, in the present invention, the contraction stress is preferably set to 0.26 cN / dtex or more. In this method of measuring shrinkage stress, a change in shrinkage stress when heated from room temperature to around 250 ° C. is detected by a U gauge (strain meter) and recorded on an X, Y recorder. Test length: 100mm,
Sound rising speed: 2.5 ° C / sec, initial load: (0.0882
The temperature is raised at cN / dtex × 2) g. Read the maximum stress (g) from the chart. (CN is centinewton) The elongation characteristic of the conjugated multifilament yarn is preferably small, preferably 35% or less, more preferably 30% or less, and further preferably 27%. The elongation and the shrinkage stress are correlated. To increase the shrinkage stress, lower the temperature during stretching and increase the stretching ratio to increase the shrinkage stress and decrease the elongation. As the conjugate multifilament yarn, by using a multifilament yarn in which a single filament itself has a spiral crimped crimp structure, the effect of stretchability and high resilience on the woven fabric can be further enhanced.

Next, weaving will be described. First, in forming a woven fabric, the above-mentioned conjugate multifilament yarn is twisted. Twisting converges the filament yarn, and when the fabric is subjected to relaxation heat treatment, helical crimp caused by the difference in shrinkage between two types of polyester polymers with different heat shrinkage is an aggregate when multifilament yarn is produced. As a result, the individual filaments are kept in the aggregated form as much as possible without causing a phase shift as a spiral, thereby facilitating the development.

In general, the constituent yarns of a woven fabric are interlaced, and there are a portion having a weak binding force and a portion having a strong binding force. That is, in the woven fabric, the intersection of the warp yarn and the weft yarn has a strong binding force, and conversely, the uncrossed floating portion has a small binding force. In order to impart surface change or stretchability by the force of the original yarn used in a woven or knitted fabric, it is possible to impart a morphological change to a portion of the yarn having a small restraining force floating at the intersection.

[0026] In the conventional production using a yarn, when a straight yarn having shrinkage is used, no change occurs on the surface and no stretch property is imparted. Further, when the straight raw yarn is twisted to form a fabric, when heat is applied, untwisting torque can cause the surface to change and change the surface, but it is difficult to impart stretchability. In addition, general false-twisted yarn has crimp, but does not have the ability to express more than the original crimping performance, so that the surface change and stretchability imparting power are small.

The same phenomenon occurs with conjugated multifilament yarns. If the crimping force is greater than the restraining force of the warp yarn when the spiral crimp is developed, the warp yarn will be lifted, the surface of the woven fabric will change and become crimped, especially if there is a warp yarn on the convex part of the spiral It has been found that the warp becomes high, however, if the warp yarn intersecting point is stuck in the concave portion of the spiral spiral, the warp cannot be formed and the spiral crimp can be easily developed. The floating portion having a small binding force is not crimped but the helical crimp expands and contracts to form a stretch of the fabric.

That is, the number of twists according to the present invention is an important factor that determines the pitch of the spiral spiral crimp, and at the same time, the pitch of the woven warp yarn crossing point and the pitch of the spiral coil due to the twist are matched. It is important that the polyester fabric of the present invention satisfies the following relationship in order to minimize graininess and improve stretch.

Hw / Pw × 1.3>Tf> Hw
/Pw×0.7, where Tf = the number of weft twists between 1 cm on the finished fabric Hw = the number of warp yarns between 1 cm on the finished fabric Pw = the number of warp yarns with a perfect structure of the fabric 1 Weft twist between 1 cm on the fabric The number Tf is the number of warp yarns Hw between 1 cm on the fabric, the number Pw of the fabric-perfect fabric warp yarns Pw, for example, 2 in the case of plain fabric, and 5 in the case of five satin fabrics. When the pitch matches the divided pitch, the warp thread fits into the concave portion of the spiral coil and the warp thread restraining force is minimized, so that the crimp does not appear most and the stretch is maximized.

This relationship is based on the assumption that the fabric standard is the same.
When the number of twists is smaller than Hw / Pw, the grain tends to start to develop, and when the number of twists increases, the stretchability tends to decrease.

For the measurement of the number of twists Tf on the finished fabric, a mark of 10 cm is made in the weft direction of the fabric, then the weft yarn is collected, and the number of twists during the marking on the fabric is measured. The number of twists at that time is divided by 10 cm to obtain the number of twists between 1 cm on the fabric. That is, it does not indicate the number of twists to be twisted by the twisting machine in the production process, but indicates the number of twists existing at intervals of 1 cm on the woven fabric.

Next, Hw / Pw in the above formula indicates the warp warp yarn cover factor, and it is preferable to set the fabric standard within the range of the following formula.

4.7 × dtex ^1/2 > Hw / Pw>
If 2.7 dtex ^1/2 Hw / Pw is too small, the stretch becomes large, but it is not preferable because it may cause various problems in handling slips and the like. On the other hand, if it is too large, it is difficult to obtain stretch characteristics, which is not a preferable region.

Regarding the weft density, 70 to 140 yarns /
A range of 2.54 cm is preferred. If the density is too low, the stretch becomes large, but there is a risk of causing various problems in handling of slips and the like, which is not preferable.If the density is too high, helical crimp becomes difficult to develop, and it is difficult to obtain stretch properties. Is not a preferred area.

The method of twisting the conjugate multifilament yarn is not particularly limited, and can be carried out by a conventional technique. The twisting direction may be either S or Z.
After twisting, the twist setting may be performed, but the setting temperature is desirably as low as possible without problem in weaving.

The helical aggregate of the conjugated multifilament yarn having been subjected to the twisting may be subjected to a relaxation heat treatment so as to be developed. However, as a usual method, it is preferably carried out in a step of dyeing a woven fabric.

The processing step can be carried out under the usual conditions of general relaxation, intermediate set, alkali reduction, dyeing, and finishing set. Relaxation treatment requires special attention, but by adopting conditions to relax to form a helical structure due to the untwisting force of the twisted twist and the development of latent crimp of the conjugate yarn, It is possible to obtain a horizontal stretch fabric without any slippage. The stretch in the horizontal direction is preferably 20% or more, and more preferably 30% or more, from the viewpoint of comfort when wearing clothes.

Here, in the twisted structure of the multifilament yarn according to the present invention, a fabric sample obtained by trial production of a morphological concept of a spiral spiral crimp having a spiral multifilament aggregate is manufactured by Hitachi, Ltd. Cross section of woven fabric after dyeing and finishing with scanning electron microscope, yarn unraveled from the woven fabric (multifilament aggregate)
The figure shows an enlarged view of the side of the camera.

FIG. 1 is a photograph of a warp yarn cross section showing a fiber shape obtained by cutting a warp yarn cross section of a woven fabric showing an example of the present invention. FIG. 2 is an enlarged photograph showing the shape of the fiber of the woven fabric of FIG. 1 in a spiral crimped state. It can be seen that the spiral spiral form developed by the twisting coincides with the woven crimp confined by the warp yarn.

In order for the finishing process to relax and develop a spiral spiral crimp even under the binding force of warp yarn,
The higher the shrinkage stress of the conjugated multifilament yarn is, the more preferable the property is because it increases the appearance of latent crimp.
The shrinkage stress is preferably set to 0.265 cN / dtex or more as described above.

In the present invention, the elongation is measured by
Three samples of 5.5 cm × 30 cm in width are taken in the weft direction of the fabric, and the same number of weft yarns are removed from both sides of the width to 5 cm. Is set to 20 cmL, and an initial load equivalent to the weight of a sample having a size of 5 cm × 1 m is applied thereto, and the sample is fixed to the grip. Next, the film is stretched to 1.8 kg at a pulling speed of 20 cm / min, the gripping distance L1 at that time is measured, and the stretching ratio (%) is obtained by the following formula, and expressed as an average value of three sheets.

Elongation rate (%) = (L1-L) / L × 100

[0043]

DESCRIPTION OF THE PREFERRED EMBODIMENTS The present invention will be described below based on embodiments. (Examples 1, 3, 4 and Comparative Examples 1 and 2) As a warp yarn, a polyester multifilament having a thickness of 55 dtex-36 filaments was used as a warp yarn through a normal sizing step, and the warp yarn density of the greige was 99/2. It was set to be .54 cm.

The weft is based on the present invention.
Polyethylene terephthalate 10 having an intrinsic viscosity of 0.47
After spinning a conjugated multifilament undrawn yarn in which a low-viscosity component composed of 0% and a high-viscosity component composed of polyethylene terephthalate having an intrinsic viscosity of 0.75 are laminated in a parallel composite at a weight composite ratio of 50:50. The yarn was drawn by a normal drawing machine to produce a 55 dtex-12 filament. The shrinkage stress of this multifilament was 0.38 cN / dtex. Using this multi-filament yarn, double twister to Z twist 1
100T / m, 1400T / m, 1600T / m, 18
Twisting was performed at 00 T / m, 2200 T / m, and 2600 T / m, respectively. Next, a twisting set was performed by a vacuum steam set at 80 ° C. for 40 minutes. Using this set yarn, weaving was performed at a weft density of 92 yarns / 2.54 cm using a water jet loom as the warp weft of the above-mentioned warp yarn to prepare a greige machine, and the obtained greige fabric was dyed.

In the dyeing process, the spread cloth was relaxed with a softer at 80 ° C. to remove the size and relaxed at 97 ° C.
Then, the liquid flow was relaxed at 130 ° C., and the weight was reduced by 10% after drying and intermediate setting, followed by dyeing, drying and finishing setting. However, the set width was adjusted as appropriate according to the condition of the wrinkles and the surface quality of the wrinkles in accordance with the contraction state of each green fabric.

In Example 1, twisting was performed so as to match the number of one complete woven fabric and the number of weft twists, but the stretch was large and the warp was small. It was a stretch fabric with good surface quality and texture.

The 2200 T / m twisted yarn of Example 3 had a stretch of 30% or more, but was smaller than that of Example 1, but had no grain and had good surface quality and texture. Although the 1400 T / m twisted yarn of Example 4 had a large stretch, the appearance of grain began to be seen, and the yarn was close to the allowable limit.

The 2600 T / m twisted yarn of Comparative Example 1 had a large number of twists, so that the stretch was small and the texture was hard.

The 1100 T / m twisted yarn of Comparative Example 2 developed grain at the time of relaxation, and could not be corrected in the intermediate set or the finish set. When the finishing width was set to eliminate the grain, the stretch was completely lost. The stretch of the comparative example is a stretch in which grain is developed. (Example 2) The same yarn as that of Example 1 was used to form a five-sheet satin structure, the greige machine vertical density was set to 218 yarns / 2.54 cm, and the weft density was set to 100 yarns / 2.54 cm. The number of twists in Example 1 was set to 1600 T / m so as to be the same as the number of one complete fabric on the finished fabric based on the present invention, and the fabric was dyed in the same manner as in Example 1. ,
As a result, a stretch fabric having high stretch, no grain, and good surface quality and texture was obtained. (Comparative Example 3) The same warp yarn as in Example 1 was used, and the greige machine warp density and the weft density were also the same. The weft is 55dtex
Using a -24 filament false twisted yarn, additional twisting in the direction opposite to the twisting direction of the false twisting process in which the crimp ratio is increased is performed in the same direction as in Example 1 with a twist number of 1800 T / m. This was performed under the same conditions as in Example 1. After weaving using this yarn, the greige was dyed under the same conditions as in Example 1. As a result, the horizontal stretch was obtained up to 24%, but was not higher than 30%, and the texture was unsatisfactory because of the flaking of the processed yarn. Table 1 summarizes the above results.

[0050]

[Table 1] ★

[0051]

According to the present invention, since it is composed of a helical crimped yarn composed of a crimpable conjugate multifilament yarn having different heat shrinkage, it can be compared with a woven fabric using a conventional false twisted yarn. , Grain free surface feeling, moderate dry feeling,
Furthermore, since it has a suitable horizontal stretch, it can be used in light clothing applications such as shirts, blouses, and linings. You.

[Brief description of the drawings]

FIG. 1 is a photograph of a warp yarn cross section showing a fiber shape obtained by cutting a warp yarn cross section of a woven fabric showing an example of the present invention.

FIG. 2 is an enlarged photograph showing the shape of the fiber of the woven fabric of FIG. 1 in a spiral crimped state.

Claims (5)

[Claims] 1. A multifilament yarn of 85 dtex or less as a warp yarn, or a conjugate multifilament yarn of 85 dtex or less as a weft yarn in which at least two polyester polymers having different heat shrinkages are joined in parallel or in a core / sheath manner. A polyester fabric used, wherein the relationship between the number of weft yarns on the fabric, the fabric warp yarn density and the fabric structure satisfies the following formula, and the basis weight is 150 g / m ² or less. Hw / Pw × 1.3>Tf> Hw / Pw × 0.
7 Tf = number of weft twists between 1 cm on the finished fabric Hw = number of warp yarns on the finished fabric 1 cm Pw = number of warp yarns in the complete fabric 1 2. The polyester fabric according to claim 1, wherein the range of Hw / Pw satisfies the following expression. 4.7 × dtex ^1/2 > Hw / Pw> 3 × dtex ^1/2 3. The stretch in the horizontal direction of the finished fabric is 20%.
The polyester fabric according to claim 1 or 2, which is the above. 4. The conjugated multifilament yarn satisfies the following characteristics.
The polyester fabric according to any one of the above. Shrinkage stress (TS) 0.265 cN / dtex or more 5. The woven fabric weft density Hf is 70 to 140 yarns / 2.54.
The polyester fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 4, which is in a range of cm.