JP2000129548A - Combined polyester multifilament yarn and woven/knit fabric therefrom - Google Patents

Abstract

PROBLEM TO BE SOLVED: To obtain combined polyester multifilament yarns with firm texture, soft and puffy feeling, lightweight feeling and stretchability, and to obtain a woven/knit fabric using the above multifilament yarns. SOLUTION: The combined multifilament yarns comprising two or more polyester multifilament yarns are such that the filament yarn A situated at relatively inner layer is conjugate multifilament yarn composed of at least two kinds of polyester polymer differing in thermal shrinkage characteristics from each other, and the filament yarn B situated at relatively outer layer has loops and/or slacks on the surface.

Description

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0001]

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION 1. Field of the Invention The present invention relates to a woven or knitted fabric comprising a mixed yarn containing a conjugated multifilament yarn and a hollow structural yarn formed of the mixed yarn.

[0002]

2. Description of the Related Art Conventionally, synthetic fiber woven or knitted fabrics have superior durability compared to woven or knitted fabrics using natural fibers or chemical fibers.
Also, it is widely used as outerwear because it is easy to care. Until now, synthetic fibers have all mimicked the appearance and touch of natural fibers and chemical fibers, but in recent years, so-called synthetic fibers, which are completely different from natural fibers in the texture and appearance sensation represented by touch. There is a movement to develop something with a unique feeling. Furthermore, in pursuit of the uniqueness of synthetic fibers, features related to functionality have been set as appealing points. In this functionality, to solve the disadvantages of conventional synthetic fibers,
For example, with respect to properties such as water absorption, sweat absorption, antistatic properties, and antifouling properties, various techniques have been developed by approaching both physical and scientific methods.

[0003] Another concept of functionality is an approach based on properties in which synthetic fibers are good, ie, properties which are not good with natural fibers, such as stretchability and weight reduction. As for the stretchability, the use of polyurethane elastic fibers, ie, spandex covering yarns, has been the mainstream, but the woven or knitted fabric has a problem in terms of raw yarn and higher processing costs.

As a means for solving this problem, Japanese Patent Laid-Open Publication No. Hei 5-247775 discloses a method in which a polyester conjugate multifilament yarn is false-twisted, twisted and woven into a composite yarn, and woven into an appropriate amount. Although it was proposed to provide stretchability, in this technology, the phase between the crimps of the conjugate fiber and the multifilament of the crimp provided by the false twisting occurred, and a large void could not be formed, so that the weight reduction was achieved. There were still challenges to achieve.

In order to reduce the weight of a woven or knitted fabric, there is a means using hollow fibers as exemplified in JP-A-62-85048 and JP-A-4-289219. In this method, the problem is how to increase the hollow ratio of the hollow fibers in order to increase the level of weight reduction. However, when the hollow ratio of the hollow fiber is increased, a problem arises in higher processability unless the fiber diameter is increased. For example,
When false twisting is performed to impart stretchability, the hollow portion of the hollow fiber is crushed or cracks are generated from the hollow portion when worn as clothing. in this way,
It has been considered difficult to achieve stretchability and weight reduction by conventional techniques without increasing processing costs.

[0006] In addition, polyester fibers have been used as a mainstream of synthetic fibers since they have many excellent properties. Particularly, in recent years, in the field of clothing, high-quality textiles having high sensitivity have been modified and improved. The material has been developed and spread under the so-called "new synthetic fiber" name.

[0007] In the production of polyester fibers, this "new synthetic fiber" is an advanced technology of the raw yarn manufacturing technology, and is linked to the conventional technology of the higher processing stage for the production of woven and knitted fabrics. With completely different new elements, it was accepted by the market. This new synthetic fiber with high quality feel has a problem in cost and quality stability because of the complicated combination of advanced yarn and higher processing steps. In order to use multiple yarns to perform complex false twisting and composite blending, and to adopt a method of adding added value, the power costs such as false twisting and air treatment become extremely high There is a tendency.

[0008] The added value cost due to the compounding, etc.
It can be absorbed in relatively profitable fields such as suits and coats in the thick material field, but cannot be absorbed in relatively unprofitable fields such as blouse and shirts, so keep processing costs as low as possible. is important. On the other hand, in order to add added value to the woven fabric, it is important to use it as a composite yarn in order to achieve a synergistic effect of a plurality of yarns, and development of how to reduce the cost of composite is being promoted.

In order to increase the added value of the false twist composite processing, there has been proposed a method of obtaining a new texture by using a two-layer structure or a multi-layer structure, and at the same time, imparting stretchability as functionality. For example, JP-A-5-247775
In Japanese Patent Application Laid-Open Publication No. H11-157, it has been proposed that a polyester conjugate yarn is preliminarily twisted and crimped, followed by blending. However, in this method, the number of steps of the false twisting process and the air mixing process is increased, the cost is increased, and the texture of the obtained woven or knitted fabric tends to be hard.

[0010]

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION The present inventors have departed from the conventional technical idea and have made intensive studies to solve the conventional problems, and as a result, have arrived at the present invention.

It is an object of the present invention to provide a polyester mixed yarn having stretch, waist, soft swelling and lightness, and stretchability, and a woven or knitted fabric comprising the mixed yarn.

Further, by using the mixed fiber of the present invention, a hollow structure is formed not as a so-called hollow fiber but as a multifilament aggregate, and stretchability and lightness are achieved by the elasticity of the spiral aggregate. It is an object of the present invention to provide a woven or knitted fabric composed of a hollow structural yarn having a feeling.

[0013]

According to the present invention, in order to achieve the above object, in a mixed fiber composed of two or more polyester multifilaments, a component of a yarn A relatively located in an inner layer is heat. A polyester blend comprising a conjugated multifilament yarn composed of at least two types of polyester polymers having different shrinkage characteristics, while the yarn located relatively in the outer layer has a loop or a tarmi on its surface. It is composed of yarn.

Further, according to the present invention, the twist coefficient α is 3000 to 3
A woven or knitted fabric using the polyester mixed yarn twisted in the range of 0000, wherein the mixed yarn has a hollow structure formed along the length direction of the yarn inside the woven or knitted fabric. Woven and knitted fabric.

However, the twist coefficient α = T × D ^1/2 T: the number of twists (t / m) D: the fineness of the mixed yarn Further, the woven or knitted fabric has an elongation of 5% or more in the warp and / or weft directions. It is also preferable that the surface of the woven or knitted fabric has fine loops and / or pallets, and that the woven or knitted fabric has a fluff shape with a part cut off.

[0016]

BEST MODE FOR CARRYING OUT THE INVENTION The conjugate multifilament of the yarn A, which is located relatively in the inner layer of the polyester mixed fiber of the present invention, is composed of at least two polyester polymers having different heat shrinkage properties in parallel or with each other. A conjugated multifilament yarn joined in a sheath is used. The conjugated multifilament yarn is not provided with a crimped structure by false twisting or other yarn processing, and has a self-crimping ability due to a difference in heat shrinkage characteristics. In other words, the crimpable conjugate filament yarn made of the polyester of the present invention has a self-crimping ability due to a difference in heat shrinkage properties, has this latent crimping ability, and is subjected to boiling water treatment. , Which develops crimps.

The conjugate multifilament yarn used in the present invention is intended for a polyester multifilament yarn whose main repeating unit is composed of ethylene terephthalate, and usually uses two kinds of polyester polymers having different heat shrinkage characteristics. Examples of the polyester polymer having a different heat shrinkability include a polyester homopolymer having a different degree of polymerization, a copolymer obtained by copolymerizing a third component other than a terephthalic acid component and / or an ethylene glycol component, and other polymers. May be blended.

Specifically, as the polyester polymer having a different heat shrinkability used in the present invention, polyethylene terephthalate alone or ethylene terephthalate unit 80
Copolyesters containing at least mol% are preferred. As the copolymerization component of the copolyester, known components such as isophthalic acid, isophthalic acid having a metal sulfonate group, bisphenols, neopentyl glycol or 1,6-cyclohexanediol can be used. Also,
Other modifiers such as a matting agent, an ultraviolet absorber, a dye-improving component, and a pigment can be compounded in the polyester.

It is important that the conjugated multifilament yarn of the present invention has the property of developing helical crimp by relaxation heat treatment. In order to obtain a conjugated multifilament yarn having such properties, the properties of the polyester polymer and the spinning / drawing conditions are important.

As the two-component polyester polymer having different heat shrinkage, one having a low viscosity polyester and one having a high viscosity component is preferably used. In the case of a homopolyester, the intrinsic viscosity of the low-viscosity polyester component is preferably in the range of 0.35 to 0.55, and the intrinsic viscosity of the high-viscosity polyester component is preferably in the range of 0.65 to 0.85. The limiting viscosity of the low viscosity polyester component is 0.3
If it is less than 5, the melt viscosity will be low, and it will be difficult to spin. The intrinsic viscosity of the low-viscosity polyester component is 0.5
If it exceeds 5, the conjugate multifilament will have poor crimp expression ability, and the helical crimp expression ability will be reduced. The intrinsic viscosity of the high-viscosity polyester component is 0.1.
If it exceeds 85, the melt viscosity becomes high, so that spinning and drawing become difficult. When the intrinsic viscosity of the high-viscosity polyester component is less than 0.65, the crimp developing power tends to be poor.

The difference in intrinsic viscosity between the low-viscosity polyester component and the high-viscosity polyester is preferably in the range of 0.20 to 0.30. However, when a copolyester component is used for one of the components, the intrinsic viscosity difference between the two components can be further reduced.

Here, the intrinsic viscosity [η] was determined as an orthochlorophenol solution at a temperature of 25 ° C.

With regard to the conjugated multifilament yarn used here, when spinning two types of polyester polymers, there is a suitable composite ratio between the low-viscosity polyester component and the high-viscosity polyester component. That is, the composite ratio of the low-viscosity polyester component and the high-viscosity polyester component is preferably 35 to 65:65 to 35 by weight, and
0-60: 60-40 is more preferable.

The composite form of the conjugated multifilament yarn may be any form in which the two components are arranged in parallel or in a core / sheath arrangement, but the parallel form is more effective in developing latent crimp (coil diameter). And the number of expressed crimps is high). The composite ratio and the arrangement form of the two components are related to the size of the diameter of the spiral coil of crimp developed in the relaxation heat treatment of the conjugate fiber. The larger the coil diameter, the greater the lightening effect. Specifically, the coil diameter is preferably 200 μm or more and 1200 μm or less, more preferably 300 μm or more and 1200 μm or less.

The spinning speed for obtaining such a crimpable conjugated multifilament yarn is usually 1000
Any of a low-speed region of not less than m / min to a high-speed region of not less than 2500 m / min may be used.

The stretching of the spun undrawn yarn and semi-drawn yarn is performed as follows.
It is possible to stretch with a known stretching device, and the stretched yarn obtained at a strength and elongation level of the obtained stretched yarn with respect to the strength and elongation characteristics of the undrawn yarn and the semi-drawn yarn, and under the condition that no fluff is generated, It is preferable to set conditions under which a large shrinkage stress can be obtained by the relaxation heat treatment. The larger the shrinkage stress, the more the crimping ability of the conjugated multifilament yarn can be increased, whereby the hollow structure of the helical coil due to the crimping can be obtained by the relaxation heat treatment of the woven or knitted fabric in the subsequent step.

As the drawn yarn, the fineness of a single fiber constituting the conjugate multifilament yarn is 1.1 to 15 dt.
ex is preferred, and more preferably 2 to 10 dtex. In the area thinner than 1.1 dtex, there is a point that it is difficult to make a thread with the current state of the art, but there is a limit in forming a helical coil, and when it is larger than 15 dtex, a hollow hollow structure can be obtained, but because of the helical structure, For clothing use, it is softer than the straight structure, but tends to have a harder texture.

[0028] The higher the shrinkage stress of the conjugated multifilament yarn, the more preferable it is to increase the development of latent crimp. For this reason, in the present invention, the shrinkage stress is 0.1.
It is preferably at least 265 cN / dtex. Shrinkage stress (TS): A change in shrinkage stress when heated from room temperature to around 250 ° C. is detected by a U gauge (strain meter),
Record on X, Y recorder. Test length: 100 mm, heating rate: 2.5 ° C./sec, initial load: (0.0882 cN /
The temperature is increased by dtex × 2) g. The maximum stress (g) and peak temperature (° C.) are read from the chart (cN is centinewton).

The elongation characteristic of the conjugated multifilament yarn of the present invention is preferably as small as possible, preferably 35% or less, more preferably 30% or less, and further preferably 27%. The elongation and the shrinkage stress are correlated. To increase the shrinkage stress, lower the temperature during stretching and increase the stretching ratio to increase the shrinkage stress and decrease the elongation.

Next, the yarn B, which is located relatively in the outer layer of the polyester mixed fiber of the present invention, will be described.

As the yarn B, an ordinary drawn yarn can be used. The type of the drawn yarn is not particularly limited as long as it is generally used, but it is preferable that the boiling water shrinkage is as low as possible. When the boiling water shrinkage property is high, when the crimp is developed in the dyeing process, the polyester multifilament yarn B is located in the inner layer from the conjugate multifilament yarn A, and the polyester multifilament yarn B The effect may not be exhibited. On the other hand, if the shrinkage ratio is too large, as in the case of a high shrinkable yarn, the high shrinkage yarn will be in a state of sticking to the innermost layer when shrunk, so that it is difficult to impart stretchability to the woven fabric. As described above, the shrinkage of the polyester multifilament yarn B is preferably low so as not to hinder the stretchability when crimping occurs, and is usually set to 10% or less, preferably in the range of + 8% to -10%. Is preferred. In addition, polyester filament yarn B
May be preliminarily subjected to a relaxation heat treatment to reduce the shrinkage ratio, or a highly oriented undrawn yarn may be heat-treated to reduce the shrinkage ratio.

Further, it is preferable that the polyester multifilament yarn B has characteristics for clarifying the purpose and the effect of blending. For example, using ultrafine yarn to give a soft texture, and adding fine ceramic particles that give microvoids to the fiber surface in the effect of reducing the regular reflection of light in the alkali weight reduction treatment in the dyeing process in order to improve color development. Can be used. Furthermore, in order to give a dry texture,
A modified cross-section yarn or a fine particle-added yarn can be used. Furthermore, it can be used in various ways, such as cationic yarn, rayon, and triacetate aiming for a different color and heather effect.

The yarn B is located in a relatively outer layer of the mixed yarn and forms loops and / or lumps on the surface to create a feeling of swelling, softness, span, etc., which are elements of the texture of a high quality worsted fabric. Play an important role. As a method for imparting loops or lumps to the surface of the mixed fiber, turbulent flow processing (taslan processing), which has been widely adopted, has been applied as a conventional method for producing spun-like yarn. In this case, the yarn A located in the relatively inner layer supplies the conjugate multifilament as the core yarn, and the yarn B located in the relatively outer layer and forming the loop or the tarmi on the surface is supplied as the sheath yarn. Further, the loops and lumps necessary for the yarn surface can be obtained by setting and processing an overfeed difference between them.
Here, what is important is the size and the number of the loops and tarmi that protrude from the surface.

From the viewpoint of creating a texture of the woven fabric and at the same time achieving the process passability, the polyester mixed yarn is 0.1% from the yarn surface.
The average of the loops protruding 5 mm or more is 250 / m or more, and the average of the loops protruding 0.60 mm or more is 15
Pcs / m or less. 0.15 from yarn surface
If the average number of loops protruding by not less than 250 mm is less than 250 loops / m, there is a tendency to lack the span-like surface feeling, and the yarn is more likely to be broken by high-order processing. Also, 0.60mm
If the average of the number of protruding loops is less than 15 / m, it is difficult to obtain a sufficient span touch, and 150
If it exceeds m, the woven fabric will have an adverse effect on the weaving property, and defects in the woven fabric will increase. In the case of a knitted fabric, the unwound property of the yarn is poor, and the knitting property tends to be poor. From such a viewpoint, the overfeed difference (yarn length difference) between the applied yarns A and B is preferably in the range of 3 to 20%. More preferably, it is 5 to 15%.

The number of loops is measured using a photoelectric fluff measuring device (TOR).
AY FRAY COUNTER) and yarn speed 50
m / min, running 0.1 g / d conditions.

As the yarn B, a normal drawn yarn can be used. The type of the drawn yarn is not particularly limited as long as it is generally used, but it is preferable that the boiling water shrinkage is as low as possible. If the boiling water shrinkage characteristic is high, when crimping is developed in the dyeing process, the polyester multifilament yarn B is located in the inner layer than the conjugate multifilament yarn A, and the effect of the polyester multifilament yarn B in the composite yarn. May not be exhibited. On the other hand, if the shrinkage ratio is too large, as in the case of a high shrinkable yarn, the high shrinkage yarn will be in a state of sticking to the innermost layer when shrunk, so that it is difficult to impart stretchability to the woven fabric. As described above, the shrinkage of the polyester multifilament yarn B is preferably low so as not to hinder the stretchability when crimping is developed.
It is preferably set to 0% or less, preferably in the range of + 8% to -10%. Alternatively, the polyester filament yarn B may be preliminarily subjected to a relaxation heat treatment to reduce the shrinkage, or the highly oriented undrawn yarn may be heat-treated or stretch-relaxed to reduce the shrinkage.

Thread B to create a high quality worsted knitted fabric
The single filament fineness of the multifilament is preferably 1.1 dtex or more and 5.5 dtex or less. Single yarn fineness is 1.1 dt
If it is less than ex, the fabric surface is in the peach direction and is 5.5 dt.
If the value of ex is exceeded, coarse texture is not obtained, which is not preferable as the texture of the worsted toned knitted fabric.

The unique feeling of span of natural fibers is largely due to the effect of fluff. In that sense, in the dyeing process of the woven or knitted fabric of the present invention, by simply abrasion during the process or by performing a physical process (buff, needle cloth process), a part of the surface loop or tulmi is cut, The fluff effect can be more easily enhanced. Next, the hollow structure which is a feature of the woven or knitted fabric of the present invention will be described. In the present invention, instead of the so-called hollow fiber having a hollow structure in the fiber itself, a hollow hollow structure is formed by an aggregate of multifilaments, and the elasticity of the spiral aggregate has stretchability and lightness. The present invention provides a woven or knitted fabric comprising a hollow structural yarn. Such a woven or knitted fabric has a hollow structure at the center portion of a spiral multifilament aggregate in which a conjugate multifilament yarn is twisted, and the hollow structure yarn is formed along the length direction of the yarn. Woven and knitted fabric. Hollow structure yarn having a hollow structure at the center of the multifilament aggregate constituting the woven or knitted fabric of the present invention is obtained by twisting a mixed yarn of a crimpable conjugate multifilament yarn having crimp development ability and heat-treating. Created when helical crimp develops along the length of the fiber. First, in weaving and knitting, the above-mentioned mixed yarn of the conjugate multifilament yarn is twisted. Twisting converges the filament yarn, and when subjected to relaxation heat treatment in the state of a woven or knitted fabric, helical crimp caused by a difference in shrinkage between two types of polyester polymers having different heat shrinkage has produced a multifilament yarn. As an aggregate, the individual filaments are maintained in the aggregated form as much as possible without causing a phase shift as a spiral shape, thereby facilitating expression. Due to the development of the spiral crimp of the aggregate of the multifilament yarn, a cavity is formed in the center of the multifilament aggregate.

The method of twisting the conjugate multifilament yarn into the mixed yarn is not particularly limited, and can be carried out by a known technique. After the twisting, the twist setting may be performed, but the setting temperature is preferably as low as possible without any problem in weaving or knitting.

In order to make the central part of the spiral assembly of the conjugated multifilament yarn subjected to the twisting into a hollow structure having a hollow structure, the heat treatment may be carried out by applying a relaxation heat treatment in the state of the yarn. As a usual method, it is preferably carried out in a step of dyeing a woven or knitted woven or knitted fabric. Processing process is general relaxation, middle set,
It can be carried out under normal conditions with alkali reduction, dyeing and finishing set. What is particularly important is that the crimping is sufficiently developed in the relaxing step to create a hollow hollow structure. Conditions for relaxing the spiral structure are adopted by the untwisting force of the twisted twist and the development of latent crimp of the conjugated multifilament yarn.

The number of twists is also an important factor in increasing the apparent diameter of the filament yarn and the bending stiffness by this hollow structure and giving the fabric high resilience. The number of twists is also important depending on the required texture, and can be determined according to the performance of the woven or knitted fabric. If the number of twists is too large, the stretchability is undesirably reduced.
This number of twisted yarns is a hollow structure yarn having a hollow in the center of the spiral multifilament yarn aggregate, maintains the texture of worsting, as a range for imparting lightweight feeling, high resilience and stretchability, as follows: Twist coefficient α obtained by the formula is 3000
~ 30000, more preferably from 7000 to 20,000
Area is suitable.

The number of twists T (T / M) = α ÷ D ^1/2 where α: twist coefficient D: fineness of the mixed yarn In the twisted yarn structure of the polyester mixed yarn according to the present invention, FIG. 1 shows a cross-sectional photograph of the fabric after dyeing and finishing with a scanning electron microscope manufactured by Hitachi, Ltd. for a sample of a trial production of a hollow structure yarn having a hollow structure at the center of the filament aggregate.

FIG. 1 is a photograph of a warp cross section showing the shape of a fiber in a state where a warp cross section of a woven fabric according to an embodiment of the present invention is cut.

In the mixed fiber, it is preferable that the single filaments constituting the conjugated multifilament yarn A are in the aggregated state as much as possible, because the ability to develop spiral crimp is large. If the single filament is crimped by false twisting or the like, or if the single filaments are dispersed, the phase of the developed crimp is shifted and coil-shaped (spiral) crimp is less likely to occur. From this point of view, the conjugate multifilament yarn A and the opposite yarn B are supplied by mixing the yarn A as a core yarn and the yarn B as a sheath yarn in the fiber mixing process, and a yarn mixing process for giving a yarn length difference between the two. Are suitable.

In recent women's clothing applications, wearing comfort has become a big keyword. As an elemental function constituting the feeling of wearing comfort, the stretchability of the fabric is emphasized. In general, it is said that stretchability as a function is required to be at least 5% or more. The woven or knitted fabric of the present invention can exhibit an elongation of 5% or more in 2 WAY or 1 WAY in the warp / weft by using the polyester mixed fiber yarn of the present invention.

[0046]

DESCRIPTION OF THE PREFERRED EMBODIMENTS The present invention will be described below based on embodiments. (Example 1) First, a schematic process for producing a polyester mixed fiber yarn of the present invention will be described with reference to FIG. In FIG. 2, the semi-drawn yarn 2 which is a polyester multifilament of the yarn B is heated to a temperature Tg (temperature of glass transition point) or lower by using a hot pin 4 between a feed roller 3 and a feed roller 5, and 1 + natural draw ratio. After stretching at (NDR) × 1.5 times or more, the heater 6 is used between the feed roller 5 and the feed roller 7 to provide a relaxation rate of 30% or more,
Relaxation heat treatment is performed at a heater temperature of 80 ° C. or higher. Thereafter, the conjugate multifilament of the yarn A from the feed roller 9 is supplied to the fiber mixing nozzle 8 together with the conjugate multifilament. Hereinafter, examples will be described.

The polyester mixed yarn of the present invention is a polyester mixed yarn composed of two polyester multifilaments. According to the processing method shown in FIG. 2, the conjugate multifilament of the yarn A has an intrinsic viscosity of 0.4.
A low-viscosity component composed of 100% of polyethylene terephthalate and a high-viscosity component composed of polyethylene terephthalate having an intrinsic viscosity of 0.75 are combined in a weight ratio of 50:50.
After spinning the conjugated multifilament undrawn yarn bonded in parallel with the above, drawing was performed by a usual drawing machine to produce a conjugated multifilament yarn of 55 dtex-124 filament.

The fiber properties of this multifilament yarn are
As a result of measurement based on JIS L1023 “Test method for chemical fiber filament yarn” and JIS L1096 “Test method for synthetic fiber filament bulky processed yarn”,. 0
dtex, strength 3.26 cN / dtex, boiling water shrinkage 4.0%, shrinkage stress: 0.357 cN / dtex.

Next, polyester filament yarn B
Is a polyester filament semi-drawn yarn having a natural drawing ratio of 40% at a spinning speed of 3500 m / min (birefringence Δn = 0.
055) Using 80 denier 48 filament, pin temperature 6
The film is stretched at 0 ° C. and a draw ratio of 1.6 times, and then heat-treated at a relaxation rate of 55% and a heater temperature of 200 ° C., and the conjugate multifilament of the yarn A is over 4% by using a turbulent flow processing nozzle. At feed rate, yarn B is 1
Fiber mixing at 3% overfeed rate, processing speed 350m /
Thread processing was performed in min.

The obtained mixed yarn was twisted in the S and Z directions at a twist number of 1300 T / M using a Murata Machinery Double Twister # 308 machine. Next, twist setting was performed at 75 ° C. × 40 minutes using a high pressure steam set machine manufactured by Ashida Works. Designed with a Venetian structure in which S warps are arranged in S-twist and wefts are arranged alternately in two SZs to a finishing density of 174 × 80 (lines / in),
Weaved on a rapier loom. Subsequently, the greige machine is put into a dyeing process, and processed in a process of continuous relaxation → liquid flow relaxation → drying → intermediate set → weight reduction → dyeing → finishing set to obtain a product having a finishing density of 171 × 83 (books / in). Was. In particular, the liquid flow relaxation was carried out by selecting a low tension liquid flow dyeing machine at a temperature of 135 ° C. while giving sufficient fibrous processing. The obtained product had sufficient stretchability in the warp and weft directions, and became a worsted-like woven fabric having a light, full-bodied, spanning and rebounding feeling. Table 1 shows the results. (Comparative Example 1) According to the processing method shown in FIG. 2, the polyester filament of the yarn A is 83dtex-12fil (boiling water shrinkage ratio: 21.0%) of a normal stretched yarn and a high shrinkage yarn.
%, Dry heat shrinkage: 28.0%), yarn B was the same yarn as in Example 1, and the same blending process as in Example 1 was performed. The obtained yarn was twisted, woven and dyed in the same manner as in Example 1 to obtain a product. Obviously, the obtained product did not show stretchability. In addition, the texture of the woven fabric was insufficient for the swelling and lightness. Table 1 shows the results.

[0051]

[Table 1] ★

[0052]

According to the present invention, a mixed fiber obtained by turbulent flow processing of a side-by-side or core-sheath conjugate filament yarn A and another polyester multifilament yarn B of a polyester polymer having different heat shrinkage properties. A conjugate filament yarn A is located in a relatively inner layer of the mixed fiber by the crimp development treatment of the yarn A, and expresses self-crimp. It is possible to obtain a crimped mixed fiber and a woven or knitted fabric having a hollow structure in which the strip B is positioned relatively to the outer layer of the yarn layer, having a stretched, waist and soft swelling feeling, and having stretchability. Furthermore, since the center portion is formed of a hollow structure yarn made of a multifilament yarn having a hollow structure, the woven and knitted fabric has a characteristic of being excellent in lightness and stretchability, as well as being excellent in high resilience. Is expected to provide a comfortable wearing feeling not only in the field of heavy clothing such as suits, jackets, bottoms and coats, but also in the field of light clothing such as shirts and blouses, and is expected to develop new developments.

[Brief description of the drawings]

FIG. 1 is a warp cross section micrograph showing a fiber shape in a state where a warp cross section of a woven fabric is shown according to an embodiment of the present invention.

FIG. 2 is a process schematic diagram showing an example of a process for producing a polyester mixed fiber of the present invention.

[Explanation of symbols]

1: Conjugate multifilament of yarn A 2: Semi-drawn yarn of polyester multifilament of yarn B 3: Feed roller 4: Hot pin 5: Feed roller 6: Heater 7: Feed roller 8: Fiber mixing nozzle 9: Feed Roller 10: Feed roller 11: Processed cheese

 ──────────────────────────────────────────────────の Continued on the front page F term (reference) 4L036 MA05 MA15 MA26 MA33 MA39 PA03 PA18 PA21 PA33 RA03 RA05 4L048 AA20 AA21 AA30 AA50 AB00 AB09 AB15 AB21 AB23 AC11 BA02 BC00 CA04 DA01 DA02 EA00

Claims (4)

[Claims] 1. A mixed fiber comprising two or more polyester multifilaments, wherein the component of the yarn A relatively located in the inner layer is composed of at least two kinds of polyester polymers having different heat shrinkage characteristics. A polyester blended yarn comprising a multifilament yarn, while the yarn B relatively located in the outer layer has a loop or a tarmi on its surface. 2. A woven or knitted fabric using the polyester blended yarn according to claim 1, which is twisted with a twist coefficient α in the range of 3,000 to 30,000, wherein the blended yarn is a yarn inside the woven or knitted fabric. A woven or knitted fabric having a hollow structure formed along a longitudinal direction of the woven or knitted fabric. However, twist coefficient α = T × D ^1/2 T: twist number (t / m) D: fineness of mixed yarn 3. The woven or knitted fabric according to claim 2, wherein the woven or knitted fabric has an elongation of 5% or more in the warp and / or weft directions. 4. The woven or knitted fabric according to claim 2, wherein the surface of the woven or knitted fabric has fine loops and / or pallets, and has a fluff shape with a part cut off.