FR2932679A1 - Cosmetic process for caring skin weakened/damaged, and treating skin by e.g. chemical-, mechanical- or physical treatment, comprises applying composition comprising ferulic acid in medium on weakened/damaged skin - Google Patents
Cosmetic process for caring skin weakened/damaged, and treating skin by e.g. chemical-, mechanical- or physical treatment, comprises applying composition comprising ferulic acid in medium on weakened/damaged skin Download PDFInfo
- Publication number
- FR2932679A1 FR2932679A1 FR0854193A FR0854193A FR2932679A1 FR 2932679 A1 FR2932679 A1 FR 2932679A1 FR 0854193 A FR0854193 A FR 0854193A FR 0854193 A FR0854193 A FR 0854193A FR 2932679 A1 FR2932679 A1 FR 2932679A1
- Authority
- FR
- France
- Prior art keywords
- skin
- composition
- ferulic acid
- treatment
- derivatives
- Prior art date
- Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
- Granted
Links
- 239000000203 mixture Substances 0.000 title claims abstract description 155
- KSEBMYQBYZTDHS-HWKANZROSA-N ferulic acid Chemical compound COC1=CC(\C=C\C(O)=O)=CC=C1O KSEBMYQBYZTDHS-HWKANZROSA-N 0.000 title claims abstract description 89
- KSEBMYQBYZTDHS-HWKANZROSA-M (E)-Ferulic acid Natural products COC1=CC(\C=C\C([O-])=O)=CC=C1O KSEBMYQBYZTDHS-HWKANZROSA-M 0.000 title claims abstract description 84
- 229940114124 ferulic acid Drugs 0.000 title claims abstract description 84
- 235000001785 ferulic acid Nutrition 0.000 title claims abstract description 84
- KSEBMYQBYZTDHS-UHFFFAOYSA-N ferulic acid Natural products COC1=CC(C=CC(O)=O)=CC=C1O KSEBMYQBYZTDHS-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 title claims abstract description 84
- QURCVMIEKCOAJU-UHFFFAOYSA-N trans-isoferulic acid Natural products COC1=CC=C(C=CC(O)=O)C=C1O QURCVMIEKCOAJU-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 title claims abstract description 84
- 238000011282 treatment Methods 0.000 title claims abstract description 65
- 239000002537 cosmetic Substances 0.000 title claims abstract description 26
- 238000000034 method Methods 0.000 title claims abstract description 20
- 230000008569 process Effects 0.000 title claims abstract description 10
- 239000003795 chemical substances by application Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 48
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- -1 organic acid salts Chemical class 0.000 claims description 27
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- 239000013543 active substance Substances 0.000 claims description 18
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- CIWBSHSKHKDKBQ-JLAZNSOCSA-N Ascorbic acid Chemical compound OC[C@H](O)[C@H]1OC(=O)C(O)=C1O CIWBSHSKHKDKBQ-JLAZNSOCSA-N 0.000 claims description 14
- 230000001771 impaired effect Effects 0.000 claims description 13
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- 230000015572 biosynthetic process Effects 0.000 claims description 10
- GVJHHUAWPYXKBD-UHFFFAOYSA-N (±)-α-Tocopherol Chemical compound OC1=C(C)C(C)=C2OC(CCCC(C)CCCC(C)CCCC(C)C)(C)CCC2=C1C GVJHHUAWPYXKBD-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 9
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- 125000004432 carbon atom Chemical group C* 0.000 description 10
- YGSDEFSMJLZEOE-UHFFFAOYSA-N salicylic acid Chemical compound OC(=O)C1=CC=CC=C1O YGSDEFSMJLZEOE-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 10
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- 239000007995 HEPES buffer Substances 0.000 description 6
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- VYGQUTWHTHXGQB-FFHKNEKCSA-N Retinol Palmitate Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(=O)OC\C=C(/C)\C=C\C=C(/C)\C=C\C1=C(C)CCCC1(C)C VYGQUTWHTHXGQB-FFHKNEKCSA-N 0.000 description 6
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- OSCJHTSDLYVCQC-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2-ethylhexyl 4-[[4-[4-(tert-butylcarbamoyl)anilino]-6-[4-(2-ethylhexoxycarbonyl)anilino]-1,3,5-triazin-2-yl]amino]benzoate Chemical compound C1=CC(C(=O)OCC(CC)CCCC)=CC=C1NC1=NC(NC=2C=CC(=CC=2)C(=O)NC(C)(C)C)=NC(NC=2C=CC(=CC=2)C(=O)OCC(CC)CCCC)=N1 OSCJHTSDLYVCQC-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 5
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- 101710088660 Filaggrin Proteins 0.000 description 5
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- HEAHZSUCFKFERC-IWGRKNQJSA-N [(2e)-2-[[4-[(e)-[7,7-dimethyl-3-oxo-4-(sulfomethyl)-2-bicyclo[2.2.1]heptanylidene]methyl]phenyl]methylidene]-7,7-dimethyl-3-oxo-4-bicyclo[2.2.1]heptanyl]methanesulfonic acid Chemical compound CC1(C)C2CCC1(CS(O)(=O)=O)C(=O)\C2=C\C(C=C1)=CC=C1\C=C/1C(=O)C2(CS(O)(=O)=O)CCC\1C2(C)C HEAHZSUCFKFERC-IWGRKNQJSA-N 0.000 description 5
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- KJCLYACXIWMFCC-UHFFFAOYSA-M sodium;5-benzoyl-4-hydroxy-2-methoxybenzenesulfonate Chemical compound [Na+].C1=C(S([O-])(=O)=O)C(OC)=CC(O)=C1C(=O)C1=CC=CC=C1 KJCLYACXIWMFCC-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 description 1
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- DOMXUEMWDBAQBQ-WEVVVXLNSA-N terbinafine Chemical compound C1=CC=C2C(CN(C\C=C\C#CC(C)(C)C)C)=CC=CC2=C1 DOMXUEMWDBAQBQ-WEVVVXLNSA-N 0.000 description 1
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- CRDAMVZIKSXKFV-UHFFFAOYSA-N trans-Farnesol Natural products CC(C)=CCCC(C)=CCCC(C)=CCO CRDAMVZIKSXKFV-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
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- YNJBWRMUSHSURL-UHFFFAOYSA-N trichloroacetic acid Chemical compound OC(=O)C(Cl)(Cl)Cl YNJBWRMUSHSURL-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- COXJMKGEQAWXNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N tris(14-methylpentadecyl) 2-hydroxypropane-1,2,3-tricarboxylate Chemical compound CC(C)CCCCCCCCCCCCCOC(=O)CC(O)(C(=O)OCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(C)C)CC(=O)OCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(C)C COXJMKGEQAWXNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- UEVAMYPIMMOEFW-UHFFFAOYSA-N trolamine salicylate Chemical compound OCCN(CCO)CCO.OC(=O)C1=CC=CC=C1O UEVAMYPIMMOEFW-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
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- PLSAJKYPRJGMHO-UHFFFAOYSA-N ursolic acid Natural products CC1CCC2(CCC3(C)C(C=CC4C5(C)CCC(O)C(C)(C)C5CCC34C)C2C1C)C(=O)O PLSAJKYPRJGMHO-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
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- 150000003751 zinc Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 229940062776 zinc aspartate Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 239000011670 zinc gluconate Substances 0.000 description 1
- 235000011478 zinc gluconate Nutrition 0.000 description 1
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- 239000011576 zinc lactate Substances 0.000 description 1
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- 235000000193 zinc lactate Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 229940098697 zinc laurate Drugs 0.000 description 1
- XOOUIPVCVHRTMJ-UHFFFAOYSA-L zinc stearate Chemical compound [Zn+2].CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC([O-])=O.CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC([O-])=O XOOUIPVCVHRTMJ-UHFFFAOYSA-L 0.000 description 1
- 229940057977 zinc stearate Drugs 0.000 description 1
- POEVDIARYKIEGF-CEOVSRFSSA-L zinc;(2s)-2-aminobutanedioate;hydron Chemical compound [Zn+2].[O-]C(=O)[C@@H](N)CC(O)=O.[O-]C(=O)[C@@H](N)CC(O)=O POEVDIARYKIEGF-CEOVSRFSSA-L 0.000 description 1
- GPYYEEJOMCKTPR-UHFFFAOYSA-L zinc;dodecanoate Chemical compound [Zn+2].CCCCCCCCCCCC([O-])=O.CCCCCCCCCCCC([O-])=O GPYYEEJOMCKTPR-UHFFFAOYSA-L 0.000 description 1
- 229910052726 zirconium Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- GVJHHUAWPYXKBD-IEOSBIPESA-N α-tocopherol Chemical compound OC1=C(C)C(C)=C2O[C@@](CCC[C@H](C)CCC[C@H](C)CCCC(C)C)(C)CCC2=C1C GVJHHUAWPYXKBD-IEOSBIPESA-N 0.000 description 1
- MPDGHEJMBKOTSU-PMTKVOBESA-N β-glycyrrhetinic acid Chemical compound C([C@@H]1C2=CC(=O)[C@H]34)[C@@](C)(C(O)=O)CC[C@]1(C)CC[C@@]2(C)[C@]4(C)CC[C@@H]1[C@]3(C)CC[C@H](O)C1(C)C MPDGHEJMBKOTSU-PMTKVOBESA-N 0.000 description 1
Classifications
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q9/00—Preparations for removing hair or for aiding hair removal
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
- A61K8/36—Carboxylic acids; Salts or anhydrides thereof
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
- A61Q19/005—Preparations for sensitive skin
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
- A61Q19/08—Anti-ageing preparations
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q9/00—Preparations for removing hair or for aiding hair removal
- A61Q9/02—Shaving preparations
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
- A61K2800/20—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of the composition as a whole
- A61K2800/28—Rubbing or scrubbing compositions; Peeling or abrasive compositions; Containing exfoliants
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
- A61K2800/80—Process related aspects concerning the preparation of the cosmetic composition or the storage or application thereof
- A61K2800/88—Two- or multipart kits
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
- A61K2800/80—Process related aspects concerning the preparation of the cosmetic composition or the storage or application thereof
- A61K2800/88—Two- or multipart kits
- A61K2800/884—Sequential application
Landscapes
- Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
- Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
- Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
- General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
- Public Health (AREA)
- Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
- Dermatology (AREA)
- Emergency Medicine (AREA)
- Birds (AREA)
- Epidemiology (AREA)
- Gerontology & Geriatric Medicine (AREA)
- Cosmetics (AREA)
Abstract
Description
Le domaine de l'invention concerne le soin et/ou le traitement d'une peau fragilisée et/ou altérée, notamment par un traitement chimique, mécanique et/ou physique. On parlera de traitement ou post-traitement à l'acide férulique d'une peau fragilisée et/ou altérée par un pré-traitement de type chimique, mécanique et/ou physique. The field of the invention relates to the care and / or treatment of a weakened and / or impaired skin, in particular by a chemical, mechanical and / or physical treatment. Ferulic acid treatment or post-treatment of skin weakened and / or impaired by chemical, mechanical and / or physical pre-treatment.
Par `peau fragilisée et/ou altérée' notamment après un traitement chimique, mécanique et/ou physique, on entend une peau présentant une altération de la cohésion et/ou de l'organisation de la couche cornée, conduisant à une modification des propriétés biophysiques (altération de la texture, de l'hydratation, de la souplesse) et/ou optiques (perte d'homogénéité, d'éclat, de transparence du teint) de ladite peau. L'invention concerne notamment un procédé cosmétique de soin d'une peau fragilisée et/ou altérée notamment par un traitement chimique, mécanique et/ou physique, comprenant l'application sur ladite peau fragilisée et/ou altérée, d'une composition comprenant, dans un milieu physiologiquement acceptable, au moins de l'acide férulique ou l'un de ses dérivés. "Fragile and / or impaired skin", especially after chemical, mechanical and / or physical treatment, means skin with an alteration of the cohesion and / or organization of the stratum corneum, leading to a modification of the biophysical properties (alteration of texture, hydration, flexibility) and / or optical (loss of homogeneity, brightness, transparency of the complexion) of said skin. The invention relates in particular to a cosmetic process for the care of a skin weakened and / or impaired, in particular by a chemical, mechanical and / or physical treatment, comprising the application to said weakened and / or weathered skin of a composition comprising in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least ferulic acid or one of its derivatives.
Elle porte également sur l'utilisation cosmétique de l'acide férulique ou l'un de ses dérivés dans une composition contenant un milieu physiologiquement acceptable, comme agent destiné à améliorer l'état de surface d'une peau altérée et/ou fragilisée par un traitement chimique, mécanique et/ou physique. It also relates to the cosmetic use of ferulic acid or one of its derivatives in a composition containing a physiologically acceptable medium, as an agent intended to improve the surface condition of an altered and / or weakened skin by a chemical, mechanical and / or physical treatment.
Fait également partie de l'invention un kit de soin et/ou de traitement de la peau comprenant (i) une première composition comprenant un agent choisi parmi un agent desquamant, un agent exfoliant, un agent anti-acné, susceptible de fragiliser et/ou altérer l'état de surface de la peau, et (ii) une seconde composition comprenant au moins de l'acide férulique ou l'un de ses dérivés ; ou selon une alternative, en remplacement de la composition (i), un dispositif de rasage et/ou d'épilation ou un dispositif émettant un rayonnement lumineux. Also included in the invention is a skin care and / or treatment kit comprising (i) a first composition comprising an agent selected from a desquamating agent, an exfoliating agent, an anti-acne agent, capable of weakening and / or altering the surface condition of the skin, and (ii) a second composition comprising at least ferulic acid or a derivative thereof; or alternatively, replacing the composition (i), a shaving device and / or depilation or a device emitting light radiation.
La peau humaine est constituée de deux compartiments à savoir un compartiment profond, le derme, et un compartiment superficiel, l'épiderme. Human skin consists of two compartments namely a deep compartment, the dermis, and a superficial compartment, the epidermis.
Le derme fournit à l'épiderme un support solide. C'est également son élément nourricier. Il est principalement constitué de fibroblastes et d'une matrice extracellulaire composée elle-même principalement de collagène, d'élastine et d'une substance, dite substance fondamentale, qui sont synthétisés par le fibroblaste. On y trouve aussi des leucocytes, des mastocytes ou encore des macrophages tissulaires. Le derme est également parcouru de vaisseaux sanguins et de fibres nerveuses. The dermis provides the epidermis with a solid support. It is also its nurturing element. It consists mainly of fibroblasts and an extracellular matrix composed mainly of collagen, elastin and a substance, called the fundamental substance, which are synthesized by the fibroblast. There are also leucocytes, mast cells or tissue macrophages. The dermis is also covered with blood vessels and nerve fibers.
L'épiderme humain naturel est conventionnellement divisé en une couche basale de kératinocytes qui constitue la couche germinative de l'épiderme, une couche dite épineuse constituée de plusieurs couches de cellules polyédriques disposées sur les cellules germinatives, une couche dite granuleuse constituée de cellules aplaties contenant des inclusions cytoplasmiques distinctes, les grains de kératohyaline, et enfin une couche supérieure appelée couche cornée (ou stratum corneum), constituée de cornéocytes, qui sont des structures cellulaires momifiées, anucléées qui dérivent des kératinocytes. L'intérieur des cornéocytes est formé de macro-filaments de kératines assemblés par la filaggrine. La paroi des cornéocytes est formée par l'enveloppe cornée, une structure protéo-lipidique très résistante et insoluble. La bonne formation des enveloppes cornées est essentielle pour assurer la qualité du stratum corneum dont le rôle est fondamental dans les propriétés biophysiques et optiques de la peau. L'enveloppe cornée est synthétisée à l'interface entre le stratum granulosum et le stratum corneum sous la membrane plasmique des kératinocytes par l'action des transglutaminases qui catalysent la formation de ponts covalents entre les protéines précurseurs de l'enveloppe cornée. On conçoit donc toute l'importance du rôle des transglutaminases dans la construction du stratum corneum et en conséquence dans l'obtention d'une peau souple, homogène et transparente ainsi que dans l'amélioration de la régularité et/ou de l'éclat du teint. The natural human epidermis is conventionally divided into a basal layer of keratinocytes which constitutes the germinal layer of the epidermis, a so-called spinous layer consisting of several layers of polyhedral cells arranged on the germinal cells, a so-called granular layer consisting of flattened cells containing distinct cytoplasmic inclusions, the keratohyalin grains, and finally an upper layer called the stratum corneum, which consists of corneocytes, which are mummified, anucleate cellular structures that derive from keratinocytes. The interior of the corneocytes is formed of macro-filaments of keratin assembled by filaggrin. The corneocyte wall is formed by the horny envelope, a highly resistant and insoluble proteolipidic structure. The proper formation of horny envelopes is essential to ensure the quality of the stratum corneum whose role is fundamental in the biophysical and optical properties of the skin. The horny envelope is synthesized at the interface between the stratum granulosum and the stratum corneum under the plasma membrane of keratinocytes by the action of transglutaminases which catalyze the formation of covalent bridges between the precursor proteins of the horny envelope. The importance of the role of transglutaminases in the construction of the stratum corneum and consequently in obtaining a supple, homogeneous and transparent skin as well as in the improvement of the regularity and / or brightness of the skin can thus be appreciated. complexion.
30 Il apparait donc essentiel de trouver des actifs augmentant l'expression de la transglutaminase et/ou l'expression de la filaggrine. It therefore appears essential to find active agents increasing the expression of transglutaminase and / or the expression of filaggrin.
Or la Demanderesse vient de mettre en évidence l'effet de l'acide férulique sur l'augmentation de l'expression de la transglutaminase K (TGK), marqueur de 35 différenciation terminale qui joue un rôle essentiel dans la constitution des enveloppes cornées.25 L'acide férulique et ses dérivés sont donc particulièrement intéressants pour améliorer la texture, l'hydratation, la régularité, la souplesse et/ou l'homogénéité, la transparence et/ou l'éclat du teint d'une peau fragilisée et/ou altérée notamment par un traitement chimique, mécanique et/ou physique. Now, the Applicant has just demonstrated the effect of ferulic acid on the increase of the expression of transglutaminase K (TGK), a terminal differentiation marker which plays an essential role in the constitution of horned envelopes. Ferulic acid and its derivatives are therefore particularly interesting for improving the texture, hydration, regularity, suppleness and / or homogeneity, transparency and / or radiance of the skin of a weakened skin and / or impaired in particular by a chemical, mechanical and / or physical treatment.
Par `traitement chimique', on entend notamment des traitements peelings notamment à l'acide glycolique, acide salicylique, acide trichloracétique ; et/ou des traitements contre l'acné notamment à l'acide salicylique, aux rétinoides, au peroxyde de benzoyle, à l'érythromycine. By "chemical treatment" is meant in particular peel treatments including glycolic acid, salicylic acid, trichloroacetic acid; and / or treatments against acne including salicylic acid, retinoids, benzoyl peroxide, erythromycin.
Par `traitement mécanique', on entend notamment le rasage ou l'épilation, les nettoyages profonds tels que les exfoliations et microabrasions mettant en oeuvre l'application et/ou le massage d'une composition de nettoyage (de préférence rincée) comprenant des particules solides ; ou encore la mésothérapie. By "mechanical treatment" is meant in particular shaving or depilation, deep cleanings such as exfoliations and microabrasions involving the application and / or massage of a cleaning composition (preferably rinsed) comprising particles solid; or mesotherapy.
Par `traitement physique', on entend notamment les traitements de photothérapie mettant en oeuvre les lasers, IPL, LED. On connaissait de l'art antérieur l'utilisation de l'acide férulique notamment comme agent 20 antioxydant (JP3665360), comme agent dépigmentant (WO2005077111) ou comme agent déodorant (US6171582). Mais à la connaissance de la Demanderesse, il n'a jamais été décrit ni suggéré l'effet de l'acide férulique sur l'expression des marqueurs de différenciation kératinocytaire ni proposé son utilisation pour améliorer l'état d'une peau fragilisée et/ou altérée par un 25 traitement chimique, mécanique et/ou physique. By "physical treatment" is meant in particular phototherapy treatments using lasers, IPL, LEDs. The prior art has known the use of ferulic acid as antioxidant (JP3665360), depigmenting agent (WO2005077111) or deodorant (US6171582). But to the knowledge of the Applicant, it has never been described or suggested the effect of ferulic acid on the expression of markers of differentiation keratinocyte nor proposed its use to improve the condition of a weakened skin and / or altered by chemical, mechanical and / or physical treatment.
La présente invention concerne donc notamment un procédé cosmétique de soin d'une peau fragilisée et/ou altérée notamment par un traitement chimique, mécanique et/ou physique, comprenant l'application sur ladite peau fragilisée et/ou altérée, en particulier 30 sur les zones de peau fragilisées et/ou altérées, d'une composition comprenant dans un milieu physiologiquement acceptable, au moins de l'acide férulique ou l'un de ses dérivés. 10 15 Traitements susceptibles d'altérer l'état de surface de la peau (pré-traitement) The present invention thus relates in particular to a cosmetic process for the care of a skin weakened and / or altered, in particular by a chemical, mechanical and / or physical treatment, comprising the application on said weakened and / or weathered skin, in particular on the skin. weakened and / or altered skin areas of a composition comprising in a physiologically acceptable medium at least ferulic acid or a derivative thereof. Treatments that may affect the skin's surface condition (pre-treatment)
Selon un premier mode, ladite composition comprenant au moins de l'acide férulique ou l'un de ses dérivés est appliquée sur une peau fragilisée et/ou altérée par un traitement chimique choisi parmi un peeling, et/ou un traitement anti-acnéique. According to a first mode, said composition comprising at least ferulic acid or one of its derivatives is applied to a skin weakened and / or altered by a chemical treatment selected from a peel, and / or an anti-acne treatment.
Par `traitement de peeling', on entend notamment l'application sur la peau d'une composition renfermant au moins 3% en poids d'au moins un agent desquamant. Cet agent desquamant peut être notamment choisi parmi : les a-hydroxyacides (AHA) tels que l'acide citrique, lactique, glycolique, malique, tartrique ou mandélique ; les 13-hydroxyacides (BHA) tels que l'acide salicylique ou l'acide n-octanoyl-5-salicylique ; l'urée ; les composés aminosulfoniques et en particulier l'acide (N-2 hydroxyéthylpiperazine-N-2-éthane) sulfonique (HEPES) ; et les dérivés de l'acide 2-oxothiazolidine-4-carboxylique (procystéine), et leurs mélanges. L'acide lactique, l'acide glycolique, l'HEPES et leurs mélanges sont préférés pour une utilisation dans la présente invention. Selon un mode particulier, il s'agira d'un peeling à l'acide glycolique. La quantité d'agent(s) desquamant(s) peut représenter de 3 à 30%, en particulier de 3 à 15% du poids de la composition de peeling,. Généralement, la composition de peeling est rincée ; puis la peau est séchée avant application de la composition comprenant l'acide férulique ou l'un de ses dérivés. Par `traitement anti-acnéique', on entend notamment l'application sur la peau d'une composition renfermant au moins un agent actif sur le Propionibacterium acnes (P acnes) en une quantité efficace. Comme agents anti- P. Acnes, on peut citer notamment l'acide asiatique, le sel de monoéthanolamine du 1-hydroxy-4-methyl 6-trimethylpentyl 2-pyridone (nom INCI : piroctone olamine), notamment vendu sous la dénomination Octopirox par la société Clariant ; l'acide 10-hydroxy-2 décanoique tel que l'Acnacidol P de chez Vincience, l'ursolate de sodium, l'oxyde de zinc tel que Zincare de chez Elementis GMBH, le 2,4,4'-trichloro-2'-hydroxy diphényl éther (ou triclosan), la 1- (3',4'-dichlorophényl)-3-(4'-chlorophényl)urée (ou triclocarban), le 3,4,4'-trichlorocarbanilide, le 3',4',5'-trichlorosalicylanilide, le métronidazole et ses sels, le miconazole et ses sels, l'itraconazole, le terconazole, l'éconazole, le ketoconazole, le saperconazole, le fluconazole, le clotrimazole, le butoconazole, l'oxiconazole, le sulfaconazole, le sulconazole, le terbinafine, le ciclopirox, le ciclopiroxolamine, l'acide undécylenique et ses sels, le résorcinol, l'octoxyglycérine ou octoglycérine, l'octanoylglycine tel que Lipacid C8G de Seppic, et leurs mélanges. By "peeling treatment" is meant in particular the application to the skin of a composition containing at least 3% by weight of at least one desquamating agent. This desquamating agent may especially be chosen from: α-hydroxy acids (AHA) such as citric, lactic, glycolic, malic, tartaric or mandelic acid; 13-hydroxyacids (BHA) such as salicylic acid or n-octanoyl-5-salicylic acid; urea; aminosulfonic compounds and in particular (N-2-hydroxyethylpiperazine-N-2-ethane) sulfonic acid (HEPES); and derivatives of 2-oxothiazolidine-4-carboxylic acid (procysteine), and mixtures thereof. Lactic acid, glycolic acid, HEPES and mixtures thereof are preferred for use in the present invention. According to a particular mode, it will be a peel with glycolic acid. The amount of desquamating agent (s) may represent from 3 to 30%, in particular from 3 to 15% by weight of the peel composition. Generally, the peel composition is rinsed; then the skin is dried before application of the composition comprising ferulic acid or one of its derivatives. By "anti-acne treatment" is meant in particular the application to the skin of a composition containing at least one active agent on Propionibacterium acnes (P acnes) in an effective amount. As anti-P. Acnes agents, there may be mentioned in particular Asian acid, the monoethanolamine salt of 1-hydroxy-4-methyl-6-trimethylpentyl-2-pyridone (INCI name: piroctone olamine), sold especially under the name Octopirox by Clariant society; 10-hydroxy-2-decanoic acid such as Acnacidol P from Vincience, sodium ursolate, zinc oxide such as Zincare from Elementis GMBH, 2,4,4'-2'-trichloro-2 ' hydroxy-diphenyl ether (or triclosan), 1- (3 ', 4'-dichlorophenyl) -3- (4'-chlorophenyl) urea (or triclocarban), 3,4,4'-trichlorocarbanilide, 3', 4 ', 5'-trichlorosalicylanilide, metronidazole and its salts, miconazole and its salts, itraconazole, terconazole, econazole, ketoconazole, saperconazole, fluconazole, clotrimazole, butoconazole, oxiconazole, sulfaconazole, sulconazole, terbinafine, ciclopirox, ciclopiroxolamine, undecylenic acid and its salts, resorcinol, octoxyglycerine or octoglycerine, octanoylglycine such as Lipacid C8G from Seppic, and mixtures thereof.
La quantité d'agent anti-acné peut représenter de 0,1 à 10% en poids, de préférence de 0,5 à 10% et encore plus préférentiellement de 1 à 5% en poids par rapport au poids total de ladite composition anti-acné. The amount of anti-acne agent can represent from 0.1 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 10% and even more preferably from 1 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of said anti-acne composition. acne.
Selon une alternative, ladite composition comprenant au moins de l'acide férulique ou l'un de ses dérivés est appliquée sur une peau fragilisée et/ou altérée par un traitement mécanique choisi parmi une exfoliation et/ou une micro-abrasion, un rasage, et/ou une épilation. According to an alternative, said composition comprising at least ferulic acid or one of its derivatives is applied to a skin weakened and / or altered by a mechanical treatment selected from exfoliation and / or micro-abrasion, shaving, and / or hair removal.
Par `exfoliation', on entend notamment l'application sur la peau, d'une composition comprenant au moins des charges abrasives et/ou agents exfoliants. De préférence, ladite composition est massée sur al peau, puis rincée. On peut citer notamment des particules exfoliantes ou gommantes d'origines minérale, végétale ou organique. Ainsi, on peut citer par exemple les billes ou la poudre de polyéthylène, comme celles commercialisées sous la dénomination Microthene MN 727 ou Microthene MN 710-20 par la société Equistar ou comme la poudre commercialisée sous la dénomination Gotalene 120 Incolore 2 par la société Dupont ; les particules de Nylon comme celles commercialisées par la société Arkema sous la dénomination Orgasol 2002 EXD NAT COS ; les fibres comme les fibres de polyamide, comme celles commercialisées par la société Utexbel sous la dénomination PULPE POLYAMIDE 12185 TAILLE 0,3 MM ; la poudre de polychlorure de vinyle ; la pierre ponce (nom INCI : pumice) comme le ponce 3/B d'Eyraud ; les coques de noyaux de fruits broyées comme les broyats de noyaux d'abricots ou de coques de noix ; la sciure de bois ; les billes de verre ; l'alumine (oxyde d'aluminium) (nom INCI : Alumina) comme le produit commercialisé sous la dénomination Dermagrain 900 par la société Marketech International, ;les cristaux de sucre ; des billes qui fondent lors de l'application sur la peau, telles que par exemple, les sphères à base de mannitol et cellulose commercialisées sous les dénominations Unisphères par la société Induchem, les capsules à base d'agar commercialisées sous les dénominations Primasponge par la société Cognis, et les sphères à base d'esters de jojoba commercialisées sous les dénominations Florasphères par la société Floratech ; et leurs mélanges. Les charges abrasives et/ou agents exfoliants peuvent être présents en une quantité allant par exemple de 0,5 à 20 % en poids, de préférence de 1 à 15 % en poids, mieux de 1 à 10 % et encore mieux de 2 à 5 % en poids par rapport au poids total de la composition exfoliante. By "exfoliation" is meant in particular the application to the skin of a composition comprising at least abrasive fillers and / or exfoliating agents. Preferably, said composition is massaged on the skin, then rinsed. Exfoliating or exfoliating particles of mineral, vegetable or organic origin may be mentioned in particular. Thus, for example, the balls or the polyethylene powder, such as those sold under the name Microthene MN 727 or Microthene MN 710-20 by the company Equistar or as the powder sold under the name Gotalene 120 Incolore 2 by the company Dupont. ; nylon particles such as those sold by Arkema under the name Orgasol 2002 EXD NAT COS; fibers such as polyamide fibers, such as those sold by the company Utexbel under the name Polymamide PULP 12185 SIZE 0.3 MM; polyvinyl chloride powder; pumice stone (INCI name: pumice) such as Eyraud's pumice 3 / B; hulls of crushed fruit stones such as crushed apricot kernels or nut hulls; sawdust; glass beads; alumina (aluminum oxide) (INCI name: Alumina), such as the product marketed under the name Dermagrain 900 by Marketech International, sugar crystals; beads which melt during application to the skin, such as, for example, spheres based on mannitol and cellulose sold under the names Unisphères by Induchem, agar capsules sold under the names Primasponge by the Cognis company, and spheres based on jojoba esters marketed under the names Florasphères by Floratech; and their mixtures. The abrasive fillers and / or exfoliation agents may be present in an amount ranging for example from 0.5 to 20% by weight, preferably from 1 to 15% by weight, better still from 1 to 10% and even more preferably from 2 to 5% by weight. % by weight relative to the total weight of the exfoliating composition.
Par `micro-abrasion' ou microdermabrasion, on entend un type d'exfoliation destiné à resurfacer les couches superficielles de la peau, via l'application sur la peau d'une composition renfermant une quantité efficace de particules d'oxyde métallique, en particulier d'oxyde de magnésium ou d'oxyde d'aluminium, qui peuvent par exemple être enrobées, notamment d'un composé siliconé, mais sont de préférence non enrobées. En particulier, ladite composition de micro-abrasion contiendra au moins 5% en poids de particules d'oxyde métallique. Généralement, les compositions d'exfoliation et de microabrasion sont appliquées sur la peau, massées puis rincées. La peau est ensuite généralement séchée avant application de la composition comprenant l'acide férulique ou l'un de ses dérivés. By "micro-abrasion" or microdermabrasion is meant a type of exfoliation intended to resurface the superficial layers of the skin, via the application on the skin of a composition containing an effective amount of metal oxide particles, in particular magnesium oxide or aluminum oxide, which may for example be coated, in particular a silicone compound, but are preferably uncoated. In particular, said micro-abrasion composition will contain at least 5% by weight of metal oxide particles. Generally, the exfoliation and microabrasion compositions are applied to the skin, massaged and then rinsed. The skin is then generally dried before application of the composition comprising ferulic acid or one of its derivatives.
Le `rasage' et l'épilation' peuvent mettre en oeuvre des dispositifs mécaniques (rasoir manuel, cire tiède) ou électriques (rasoir électrique). 'Shaving' and hair removal can use mechanical (manual razor, warm wax) or electric (electric razor) devices.
Selon une autre alternative, ladite composition comprenant au moins de l'acide férulique ou l'un de ses dérivés est appliquée sur une peau fragilisée et/ou altérée par un traitement physique de type rayonnement lumineux (photothérapie) émis par les lasers ; l'IPL ; et/ou les LED. According to another alternative, said composition comprising at least ferulic acid or one of its derivatives is applied to a skin weakened and / or impaired by a physical treatment of light radiation type (phototherapy) emitted by the lasers; IPL; and / or the LEDs.
Par `rayonnement lumineux', on entend notamment un rayonnement lumineux présentant des longueurs d'onde allant de 400nm à 1000nm (spectre couvrant les lumières verte, bleue et rouge). Il peut être émis par un dispositif de type Lasers (Light Amplification by the Stimulated Emission of Radiation : source lumineuse de très haute densité et monochromatique), IPL (Intense pulse light), LED (Light emitting diode : source lumineuse à basse densité). By "light radiation" is meant in particular light radiation having wavelengths ranging from 400nm to 1000nm (spectrum covering the green, blue and red lights). It can be emitted by a Lasers device (Light Amplification by the Stimulated Emission of Radiation), IPL (Intense Pulse Light), LED (Light Emitting Diode).
Selon l'invention, ladite peau fragilisée et/ou altérée peut également avoir subi des traitements combinés chimique/mécanique, chimique/physique, ou mécanique/physique ou encore chimique/mécanique/physique, tels que définis précédemment. According to the invention, said weakened and / or impaired skin may also have undergone combined chemical / mechanical, chemical / physical, or mechanical / physical or chemical / mechanical / physical treatments, as defined above.
La composition selon l'invention comprenant, dans un milieu physiologiquement acceptable, au moins de l'acide férulique ou l'un de ses dérivés, est appliquée notamment sur les zones de peau fragilisées et/ou altérées par le traitement chimique, mécanique et/ou physique. En particulier, il s'agira de la zone du visage de la peau. The composition according to the invention comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least ferulic acid or one of its derivatives, is applied in particular to skin areas weakened and / or altered by chemical, mechanical and / or or physical. In particular, it will be the area of the face of the skin.
Composition selon l'invention comprenant de l'acide férulique ou l'un de ses dérivés (traitement ou post-traitement) L'acide férulique est le nom commun de l'acide [(hydroxy-4-méthyl-3)-3-phényl]-3-propène-2-oïque. Il résulte du métabolisme de la phénylalanine et de la tyrosine. Il se présente à la fois sous forme libre mais plus souvent rattaché par liaison covalente à la lignine ou à d'autres polymères pariétaux. La présence du noyau phénolique et d'une chaîne conjuguée insaturée confère à l'acide férulique un pouvoir antioxydant et d'absorption des rayons UV. Ci N MQ. Wa e de "sa id enMique L'acide férulique est notamment disponible sous la référence commerciale Oryza Ferulix de la société Oryza Oil & Fat Chemicals. Par `dérivés' de l'acide férulique, on entend notamment ses esters et/ou sels et/ou extraits végétaux en contenant. De préférence, on utilisera les esters. Comme `esters' d'acide férulique, on peut notamment citer les esters d'acide férulique et d'alcools en C1-C30, en particulier le methyl férulate, l'éthyl férulate, l'isopropyl férulate, 20 l'octyl férulate et l'oryzanyl férulate. Selon un mode particulier, on pourra utiliser l'ethyl ferulate de formule :15 mit' ~f I >ù t --_.i~ a H;,. t Comme `sels' d'acide férulique, on peut notamment citer les sels organiques d'acide férulique, en particulier les sels de sodium (ex : sodium ferulate et sodium isoférulate). Composition according to the invention comprising ferulic acid or one of its derivatives (treatment or post-treatment) Ferulic acid is the common name for [(4-hydroxy-3-methyl-3-yl) phenyl] -3-propen-2-oic acid. It results from the metabolism of phenylalanine and tyrosine. It occurs both in free form but more often attached by covalent bond to lignin or other parietal polymers. The presence of the phenolic nucleus and an unsaturated conjugated chain gives ferulic acid an antioxidant and UV absorption power. Ci N MQ. Its ferulic acid is in particular available under the commercial reference Oryza Ferulix from the company Oryza Oil & Fat Chemicals By derivatives of ferulic acid, its esters and / or salts and / or The esters of ferulic acid and of C 1 -C 30 alcohols, in particular methyl ferulate, are preferably ferulic acid esters. ethyl ferulate, isopropyl ferulate, octyl ferulate and oryzanyl ferulate According to a particular mode, it is possible to use ethyl ferulate of formula: ## STR2 ## Examples of ferulic acid salts that may be mentioned include organic salts of ferulic acid, in particular sodium salts (eg sodium ferulate and sodium isoferulate).
Comme `extraits végétaux' contenant de l'acide férulique, on peut notamment citer le riz, le blé, l'orge, l'avoine, l'écorce des arbres, les bourgeons de peuplier, l'asperge, les olives, les baies. De préférence, on utilisera la fraction du son de riz, blé, orge, ou avoine. Selon un mode particulier, on utilisera l'extrait de son de blé. L'acide férulique est le principal acide phénolique chez le blé et les teneurs sont respectivement de 50 pg/g de farine blanche et de 500 pg/g de blé moulu. L'acide férulique ou l'un de ses dérivés sera présent dans la composition de l'invention (post-traitement) en une teneur efficace pour obtenir l'effet recherché sur l'expression de la transglutaminase et/ou la filaggrine. As `plant extracts' containing ferulic acid, there may be mentioned rice, wheat, barley, oats, tree bark, poplar buds, asparagus, olives, berries . Preferably, the fraction of rice bran, wheat, barley, or oats will be used. According to a particular mode, the wheat bran extract will be used. Ferulic acid is the main phenolic acid in wheat and the contents are 50 μg / g white flour and 500 μg / g ground wheat, respectively. The ferulic acid or one of its derivatives will be present in the composition of the invention (post-treatment) in an effective amount to obtain the desired effect on the expression of transglutaminase and / or filaggrin.
En particulier, il sera présent en une teneur allant de 0.01 à 10% en poids de matière active, de préférence de 0.05 à 5% et encore plus préférentiellement de 0.1 à 2% en poids de matière active par rapport au poids total de ladite composition. Selon un mode particulier de l'invention, on utilise dans la composition de l'invention, de l'acide férulique. Selon un autre mode, les dérivés d'acide férulique sont choisis parmi des esters d'acide férulique et d'alcools en C1ùC30 , des sels organiques d'acide férulique, des extraits végétaux contenant de l'acide férulique, et leurs mélanges. In particular, it will be present in a content ranging from 0.01 to 10% by weight of active material, preferably from 0.05 to 5% and even more preferably from 0.1 to 2% by weight of active material relative to the total weight of said composition. . According to one particular embodiment of the invention, ferulic acid is used in the composition of the invention. In another embodiment, the ferulic acid derivatives are chosen from esters of ferulic acid and C1-C30 alcohols, organic salts of ferulic acid, vegetable extracts containing ferulic acid, and mixtures thereof.
Galénique La ou les compositions selon l'invention (composition de pré-traitement susceptible d'altérer l'état de surface de la peau et composition de post-traitement à l'acide férulique) peuvent être des compositions cosmétiques ou dermatologiques, avantageusement cosmétiques. 8 Il s'agit en particulier de compositions destinées à une application topique sur la peau. Elles sont formulées dans un milieu physiologiquement acceptable. Le milieu physiologiquement acceptable est préférentiellement un milieu cosmétiquement ou dermatologiquement acceptable, c'est-à-dire sans odeur, couleur ou aspect désagréable, et qui ne génère pas de picotement, tiraillement ou rougeur inacceptable pour l'utilisateur. Par milieu physiologiquement acceptable, on comprend un milieu compatible avec les matières kératiniques d'êtres humains comme la peau, les muqueuses, les ongles, le cuir chevelu et/ou les cheveux. Galenic The composition (s) according to the invention (pre-treatment composition capable of altering the surface state of the skin and post-treatment composition with ferulic acid) may be cosmetic or dermatological compositions, advantageously cosmetic. In particular, these are compositions intended for topical application to the skin. They are formulated in a physiologically acceptable medium. The physiologically acceptable medium is preferably a cosmetically or dermatologically acceptable medium, that is to say without odor, color or unpleasant appearance, and which does not generate tingling, tightness or redness unacceptable to the user. By physiologically acceptable medium, an environment compatible with keratin materials of human beings such as the skin, the mucous membranes, the nails, the scalp and / or the hair is understood.
La ou les compositions selon l'invention peuvent se présenter sous toutes les formes galéniques normalement utilisées dans les domaines cosmétique et dermatologique, et en particulier pour une application topique sur la peau. The composition or compositions according to the invention may be in any of the galenical forms normally used in the cosmetic and dermatological fields, and in particular for topical application to the skin.
Elles peuvent être notamment sous forme d'une solution aqueuse, hydroalcoolique, éventuellement gélifiée, d'une dispersion du type lotion éventuellement biphasée, d'une émulsion huile-dans-eau ou eau-dans-huile ou multiple, d'un gel aqueux, d'une dispersion d'huile dans une phase aqueuse à l'aide de sphérules, ces sphérules pouvant être des nanoparticules polymériques telles que les nanosphères et les nanocapsules ou, mieux, des vésicules lipidiques de type ionique et/ou non-ionique, ou bien encore d'une poudre. Ainsi, la ou les compositions peuvent comprendre tous les constituants usuellement employés dans l'application envisagée. On peut notamment citer l'eau, les solvants, les huiles d'origine minérale, animale et/ou végétale notamment telles que détaillées ci-après, les cires telles que décrites ci-après, en particulier les pigments, les charges, les tensioactifs, les actifs cosmétiques ou dermatologiques, les filtres UV, les polymères, les gélifiants, les conservateurs. Bien entendu l'homme du métier veillera à choisir ce ou ces éventuels composés complémentaires, et/ou leur quantité, de manière telle que les propriétés avantageuses des composés selon l'invention ne soient pas, ou substantiellement pas, altérées par l'adjonction envisagée. They may especially be in the form of an aqueous solution, hydroalcoholic, optionally gelled, a dispersion of the lotion type possibly two-phase, an oil-in-water or water-in-oil or multiple emulsion, an aqueous gel , an oil dispersion in an aqueous phase using spherules, these spherules may be polymeric nanoparticles such as nanospheres and nanocapsules or, better, lipid vesicles of ionic and / or nonionic type, or else a powder. Thus, the composition or compositions may comprise all the constituents usually used in the intended application. Mention may in particular be made of water, solvents, oils of mineral, animal and / or vegetable origin, in particular as detailed below, the waxes as described below, in particular pigments, fillers and surfactants. , cosmetic or dermatological active agents, UV filters, polymers, gelling agents, preservatives. Of course, those skilled in the art will take care to choose this or these optional additional compounds, and / or their quantity, in such a way that the advantageous properties of the compounds according to the invention are not, or not substantially, impaired by the addition envisaged. .
Les compositions selon l'invention contiennent avantageusement au moins une phase grasse liquide. Avantageusement, les compositions selon l'invention peuvent se présenter sous la forme d'émulsions. Les compositions selon l'invention peuvent avantageusement se présenter sous forme d'une émulsion obtenue par dispersion d'une phase aqueuse dans une phase grasse (E/H) ou d'une phase grasse dans une phase aqueuse (H/E), de consistance liquide ou semi-liquide du type lait, ou de consistance molle, semi-solide ou solide du type crème ou gel, ou encore d'émulsion multiple (E/H/E ou H/E/H). Ces compositions sont préparées selon les méthodes usuelles. The compositions according to the invention advantageously contain at least one liquid fatty phase. Advantageously, the compositions according to the invention can be in the form of emulsions. The compositions according to the invention may advantageously be in the form of an emulsion obtained by dispersing an aqueous phase in a fatty phase (W / O) or a fatty phase in an aqueous phase (O / W), liquid or semi-liquid consistency of the milk type, or of soft, semi-solid or solid consistency of the cream or gel type, or multiple emulsion (E / H / E or H / E / H). These compositions are prepared according to the usual methods.
Les compositions de ce type peuvent avoir la forme d'un produit de soin ou de maquillage du visage et/ou du corps, et être conditionnée par exemple sous forme de crème en pot ou de fluide en tube ou en flacon pompe. Les émulsions contiennent généralement au moins un émulsionnant choisi parmi les émulsionnants amphotères, anioniques, cationiques ou non ioniques, utilisés seuls ou en mélange. Les émulsionnants sont choisis de manière appropriée suivant l'émulsion à obtenir (E/H ou H/E). Les émulsionnants sont généralement présents dans la composition, en une proportion pouvant aller par exemple de 0,3 à 30 % en poids, et de préférence de 0,5 à 20 % en poids par rapport au poids total de la composition. Pour les émulsions H/E, on peut citer par exemple comme émulsionnants, les tensioactifs non ioniques, et notamment les esters de polyols et d'acide gras à chaîne saturée ou insaturée comportant par exemple de 8 à 24 atomes de carbone et mieux de 12 à 22 atomes de carbone, et leurs dérivés oxyalkylénés, c'est-à-dire comportant des unités oxyéthylénés et/ou oxypropylénés, tels les esters de glycéryle et d'acide gras en C8-C24, et leurs dérivés oxyalkylénés ; les esters de polyéthylène glycol et d'acide gras en C8-C24, et leurs dérivés oxyalkylénés ; les esters de sorbitol et d'acide gras en C8-C24, et leurs dérivés oxyalkylénés ; les esters de sucre (sucrose, glucose, alkylglucose) et d'acide gras en C8-C24, et leurs dérivés oxyalkylénés ; les éthers d'alcools gras ; les éthers de sucre et d'alcools gras en C8-C24, et leurs mélanges. The compositions of this type may have the form of a care product or make-up of the face and / or the body, and may be packaged, for example, in the form of potted cream or fluid in a tube or in a pump bottle. The emulsions generally contain at least one emulsifier chosen from amphoteric, anionic, cationic or nonionic emulsifiers, used alone or as a mixture. The emulsifiers are suitably selected according to the emulsion to be obtained (W / O or O / W). The emulsifiers are generally present in the composition, in a proportion ranging for example from 0.3 to 30% by weight, and preferably from 0.5 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. For the O / W emulsions, mention may be made, for example, as emulsifiers, of nonionic surfactants, and in particular saturated or unsaturated chain fatty acid and polyol esters containing, for example, from 8 to 24 carbon atoms and preferably from 12 to 24 carbon atoms. at 22 carbon atoms, and their oxyalkylenated derivatives, that is to say containing oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylene units, such as esters of glyceryl and of C 8 -C 24 fatty acid, and their oxyalkylenated derivatives; esters of polyethylene glycol and of C8-C24 fatty acid, and their oxyalkylenated derivatives; esters of sorbitol and of C8-C24 fatty acid, and their oxyalkylenated derivatives; esters of sugar (sucrose, glucose, alkylglucose) and C8-C24 fatty acid, and their oxyalkylenated derivatives; fatty alcohol ethers; sugar ethers and C8-C24 fatty alcohols, and mixtures thereof.
Comme exemples d'huiles utilisables dans la composition selon l'invention, on peut citer : - les huiles hydrocarbonées d'origine animale, telles que le perhydrosqualène, - les huiles hydrocarbonées d'origine végétale, telles que les triglycérides liquides d'acides gras comportant de 4 à 10 atomes de carbone comme les triglycérides des acides heptanoïque ou octanoïque ou encore, par exemple les huiles de tournesol, de maïs, de soja, de courge, de pépins de raisin, de sésame, de noisette, d'abricot, de macadamia, d'arara, de tournesol, de ricin, d'avocat, les triglycérides des acides caprylique/caprique comme ceux vendus par la société Stearineries Dubois ou ceux vendus sous les dénominations Miglyol 810, 812 et 818 par la société Dynamit Nobel, l'huile de jojoba, l'huile de beurre de karité, - les esters et les éthers de synthèse, notamment d'acides gras, comme les huiles de formules R,000R2 et R,OR2 dans laquelle R, représente le reste d'un acide gras comportant de 8 à 29 atomes de carbone, et R2 représente une chaîne hydrocarbonée, ramifiée ou non, contenant de 3 à 30 atomes de carbone, comme par exemple l'huile de Purcellin, l'isononanoate d'isononyle, le myristate d'isopropyle, le palmitate d'éthyl-2-hexyle, le stéarate d'octyl-2-dodécyle, l'érucate d'octyl-2-dodécyle, l'isostéarate d'isostéaryle ; les esters hydroxylés comme l'isostéaryl lactate, l'octylhydroxystéarate, l'hydroxystéarate d'octyldodécyle, le diisostéaryl-malate, le citrate de triisocétyle, les heptanoates, octanoates, décanoates d'alcools gras ; les esters de polyol, comme le dioctanoate de propylène glycol, le diheptanoate de néopentylglycol et le diisononanoate de diéthylèneglycol ; et les esters du pentaérythritol comme le tétraisostéarate de pentaérythrityle, - les hydrocarbures linéaires ou ramifiés, d'origine minérale ou synthétique, tels que les huiles de paraffine, volatiles ou non, et leurs dérivés, l'isohexadecane, l'isododecane, la vaseline, les polydécènes, le polyisobutène hydrogéné tel que l'huile de Parléam , - des huiles essentielles naturelles ou synthétiques telles que, par exemple, les huiles d'eucalyptus, de lavandin, de lavande, de vétiver, de litsea cubeba, de citron, de santal, de romarin, de camomille, de sarriette, de noix de muscade, de cannelle, d'hysope, de carvi, d'orange, de géraniol, de cade et de bergamote, - les alcools gras ayant de 8 à 26 atomes de carbone, comme l'alcool cétylique, l'alcool stéarylique et leur mélange (alcool cétylstéarylique), l'octyl dodécanol, le 2-butyloctanol, le 2-hexyldécanol, le 2-undécylpentadécanol, l'alcool oléique ou l'alcool linoléique, - les huiles fluorées partiellement hydrocarbonées et/ou siliconées comme celles décrites dans le document JP-A-2-295912, - les huiles de silicone comme les polyméthylsiloxanes (PDMS) volatiles ou non à chaîne siliconée linéaire ou cyclique, liquides ou pâteux à température ambiante, notamment les cyclopolydiméthylsiloxanes (cyclométhicones) telles que le cyclohexasiloxane et le cyclopentasiloxane ; les polydiméthylsiloxanes comportant des groupements alkyle, alcoxy ou phényle, pendant ou en bout de chaîne siliconée, groupements ayant de 2 à 24 atomes de carbone ; les silicones phénylées comme les phényltriméthicones, les phényldiméthicones, les phényltriméthylsiloxydiphényl- siloxanes, les diphényl-diméthicones, les diphénylméthyldiphényl trisiloxanes, les 2-phényléthyltriméthyl-siloxysilicates, et les polyméthylphénylsiloxanes, - leurs mélanges. On entend par huile hydrocarbonée dans la liste des huiles citées ci-dessus, toute huile comportant majoritairement des atomes de carbone et d'hydrogène, et éventuellement des groupements ester, éther, fluoré, acide carboxylique et/ou alcool. As examples of oils that may be used in the composition according to the invention, mention may be made of: hydrocarbon-based oils of animal origin, such as perhydrosqualene, hydrocarbon-based oils of plant origin, such as liquid triglycerides of fatty acids comprising from 4 to 10 carbon atoms, such as the triglycerides of heptanoic or octanoic acids, or else, for example, sunflower, corn, soya, squash, grape seed, sesame, hazelnut or apricot oils, macadamia, arara, sunflower, castor oil, avocado, triglycerides of caprylic / capric acids such as those sold by Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810, 812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel, jojoba oil, shea butter oil, esters and synthetic ethers, in particular of fatty acids, such as the oils of formulas R, 000R2 and R, OR2 in which R represents the residue of a fatty acid comprising from 8 to 29 carbon atoms, and R2 represents a hydrocarbon chain, branched or unbranched, containing from 3 to 30 carbon atoms, for example Purcellin oil, isononyl isononanoate or isopropyl myristate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, octyl-2-dodecyl stearate, octyl-2-dodecyl erucate, isostearyl isostearate; hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate, octyl hydroxystearate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate, diisostearyl malate, triisocetyl citrate, heptanoates, octanoates, decanoates of fatty alcohols; polyol esters, such as propylene glycol dioctanoate, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate and diethylene glycol diisononanoate; and pentaerythritol esters such as pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, such as paraffin oils, volatile or not, and their derivatives, isohexadecane, isododecane, petrolatum polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parléam oil, natural or synthetic essential oils such as, for example, eucalyptus, lavandin, lavender, vetiver, litsea cubeba, lemon oils, of sandalwood, rosemary, chamomile, savory, nutmeg, cinnamon, hyssop, caraway, orange, geraniol, cade and bergamot, - fatty alcohols having from 8 to 26 atoms of carbon, such as cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and their mixture (cetylstearyl alcohol), octyl dodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, oleic alcohol or linoleic alcohol - fluorinated oils partially Hydrocarbon and / or silicone oils, such as those described in document JP-A-2-295912, silicone oils such as volatile or non-volatile polymethylsiloxanes (PDMS) with a linear or cyclic silicone chain, which are liquid or pasty at room temperature, cyclopolydimethylsiloxanes (cyclomethicones) such as cyclohexasiloxane and cyclopentasiloxane; polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl, alkoxy or phenyl groups, during or at the end of the silicone chain, groups having from 2 to 24 carbon atoms; phenyl silicones such as phenyltrimethicones, phenyldimethicones, phenyltrimethylsiloxydiphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl-dimethicones, diphenylmethyldiphenyltrisiloxanes, 2-phenylethyltrimethylsiloxysilicates, and polymethylphenylsiloxanes, and mixtures thereof. By hydrocarbon oil is meant in the list of oils mentioned above, any oil predominantly comprising carbon and hydrogen atoms, and optionally ester, ether, fluoro, carboxylic acid and / or alcohol groups.
Les autres corps gras pouvant être présents dans la phase huileuse sont par exemple les cires et les acides gras comportant de 8 à 30 atomes de carbone, comme l'acide stéarique, l'acide laurique, l'acide palmitique et l'acide oléique. A titre de cires pouvant être utilisées selon l'invention, on peut citer les cires d'origine animale telles que la cire d'abeilles, le spermaceti, la cire de lanoline et les dérivés de lanoline, les cires végétales telles que la cire de Carnauba, de Candellila, d'Ouricury, du Japon, le beurre de cacao ou les cires de fibres de liège ou de canne à sucre, les cires minérales, par exemple de paraffine, de vaseline, de lignite ou les cires microcristallines ou les ozokérites, les cires synthétiques parmi lesquelles les cires de polyéthylène, de polytétrafluoroéthylène et les cires obtenues par synthèse de Fisher- Tropsch ou encore les cires de silicone, les huiles hydrogénées concrètes à 25 °C telles que l'huile de ricin hydrogénée, l'huile de jojoba hydrogénée, l'huile de palme hydrogénée, le suif hydrogéné, l'huile de coco hydrogénée et les esters gras concrets à 25 °C comme le stéarate d'alkyle en C20-C40 vendu sous la dénomination commerciale KESTER WAX K82H par la société KOSTER KEUNEN. Other fatty substances that may be present in the oily phase are, for example, waxes and fatty acids containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, such as stearic acid, lauric acid, palmitic acid and oleic acid. As waxes that can be used according to the invention, mention may be made of waxes of animal origin such as beeswax, spermaceti, lanolin wax and lanolin derivatives, vegetable waxes such as wax of Carnauba, Candellila, Ouricury, Japan, cocoa butter or cork fiber or sugarcane waxes, mineral waxes, eg paraffin, petrolatum, lignite or microcrystalline waxes or ozokerites synthetic waxes, among which are polyethylene waxes, polytetrafluoroethylene waxes and waxes obtained by Fisher-Tropsch synthesis, or silicone waxes, hydrogenated oils that are solid at 25 ° C., such as hydrogenated castor oil, and oil. hydrogenated jojoba, hydrogenated palm oil, hydrogenated tallow, hydrogenated coconut oil and concrete fatty esters at 25 ° C such as C20-C40 alkyl stearate sold under the trade name KESTE R WAX K82H by the company KOSTER KEUNEN.
Ces corps gras peuvent être choisis de manière variée par l'homme du métier afin de préparer une composition ayant les propriétés, par exemple de consistance ou de texture, souhaitées. Les compositions selon l'invention peuvent comprendre une huile volatile. Par huile volatile , on entend au sens de l'invention une huile susceptible de s'évaporer au contact des matières kératiniques en moins d'une heure, à température ambiante et pression atmosphérique. Le ou les solvants organiques volatils et les huiles volatiles de l'invention sont des solvants organiques et des huiles cosmétiques volatiles, liquides à température ambiante, ayant une pression de vapeur non nulle, à température ambiante et pression atmosphérique, allant en particulier de 0,13 Pa à 40 000 Pa (10-3 à 300 mm de Hg), en particulier allant de 1,3 Pa à 13 000 Pa (0,01 à 100 mm de Hg), et plus particulièrement allant de de 1 ,3 Pa à 1300 Pa (0,01 à 10 mm de Hg). On peut citer comme huiles volatiles entre autres, les silicones cycliques ou linéaires renfermant de 2 à 6 atomes de silicium, telles que le cyclohexasiloxane, le dodecamethylpentasiloxane, le decamethyltetrasiloxane, le butyltrisiloxane et l'éthyltrisiloxane. On peut aussi utiliser les hydrocarbures ramifiés tels que par exemple l'isododécane ainsi que les perfluoroalcanes volatiles tels que le dodécafluoropentane et le tétradécafluorohexane, vendus sous les dénominations de PF 5050 et PF 5060 par la Société 3M et les dérivés de perfluoromorpholine, tels que la 4-trifluorométhyl perfluoromorpholine vendue sous la dénomination PF 5052 par la Société 3M. La quantité de phase huileuse présente dans les compositions selon l'invention peut aller par exemple de 0,01 à 50 % en poids et de préférence de 0,1 à 30 % en poids par rapport au poids total de la composition. These fatty substances may be chosen in a varied manner by those skilled in the art in order to prepare a composition having the desired properties, for example of consistency or texture. The compositions according to the invention may comprise a volatile oil. For the purposes of the invention, the term "volatile oil" means an oil capable of evaporating on contact with keratin materials in less than one hour at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure. The volatile organic solvent (s) and the volatile oils of the invention are organic solvents and volatile cosmetic oils which are liquid at ambient temperature and have a non-zero vapor pressure at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure, in particular ranging from 0 to 13 Pa at 40,000 Pa (10-3 to 300 mmHg), in particular ranging from 1.3 Pa to 13 000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mmHg), and more particularly ranging from 1.3 Pa. at 1300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mmHg). Volatile oils which may be mentioned include, among others, cyclic or linear silicones containing from 2 to 6 silicon atoms, such as cyclohexasiloxane, dodecamethylpentasiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane, butyltrisiloxane and ethyltrisiloxane. It is also possible to use branched hydrocarbons such as, for example, isododecane and also volatile perfluoroalkanes such as dodecafluoropentane and tetradecafluorohexane, sold under the names PF 5050 and PF 5060 by the company 3M and perfluoromorpholine derivatives, such as 4-trifluoromethyl perfluoromorpholine sold under the name PF 5052 by the company 3M. The amount of oily phase present in the compositions according to the invention may range, for example, from 0.01 to 50% by weight and preferably from 0.1 to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
Les compositions selon l'invention peuvent en outre comprendre au moins une matière colorante choisie par exemple parmi les pigments, les nacres, les colorants, les matériaux à effet et leurs mélanges. Ces matières colorantes peuvent être présentes en une teneur allant de 0,01 % à 50 % en poids, de préférence de 0,01 % à 30 % par rapport au poids total de la composition. The compositions according to the invention may further comprise at least one dyestuff chosen for example from pigments, nacres, dyes, effect materials and mixtures thereof. These dyestuffs may be present in a content ranging from 0.01% to 50% by weight, preferably from 0.01% to 30% relative to the total weight of the composition.
Les compositions selon l'invention peuvent également comprendre une charge notamment en une teneur allant de 0,01 % à 50 % en poids, par rapport au poids total de la composition de préférence allant de 0,01 % à 30 % en poids. Ces charges peuvent être minérales ou organiques de toute forme, plaquettaires, sphériques ou oblongues, quelle que soit la forme cristallographique (par exemple feuillet, cubique, hexagonale, orthorombique, ou amorphe). On peut citer la silice, le talc, le mica, le kaolin, la lauroyllysine, l'amidon, le nitrure de bore, les poudres de PTFE, les poudres de PMMA, les poudres de résine de methyl silsesquioxane (comme le Tospearl 145A de GE Silicone) , les particules hémisphérique creuse de résine de silicone (comme les NLK 500, NLK 506 et NLK 510 de Takemoto Oil and Fat), le sulfate de Baryum, le carbonate de calcium précipité, le carbonate et l'hydro-carbonate de magnésium, l'hydroxyapatite, les microcapsules de verre ou de céramique, les savons métalliques dérivés d'acides organiques carboxyliques ayant de 8 à 22 atomes de carbone, de préférence de 12 à 18 atomes de carbone, par exemple le stéarate de zinc, de magnésium ou de lithium, le laurate de zinc, le myristate de magnésium. The compositions according to the invention may also comprise a filler, in particular in a content ranging from 0.01% to 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 0.01% to 30% by weight. These fillers can be mineral or organic of any form, platelet, spherical or oblong, whatever the crystallographic form (for example sheet, cubic, hexagonal, orthorhombic, or amorphous). Mention may be made of silica, talc, mica, kaolin, lauroyllysine, starch, boron nitride, PTFE powders, PMMA powders, methyl silsesquioxane resin powders (such as Tospearl 145A from GE Silicone), hollow hemispherical silicone resin particles (such as Takemoto Oil and Fat's NLK 500, NLK 506 and NLK 510), Barium sulfate, precipitated calcium carbonate, carbonate and hydro-carbonate. magnesium, hydroxyapatite, microcapsules of glass or ceramic, metal soaps derived from organic carboxylic acids having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 18 carbon atoms, for example zinc stearate, magnesium or lithium, zinc laurate, magnesium myristate.
La ou les compositions selon l'invention peuvent en outre contenir divers adjuvants couramment utilisés dans le domaine cosmétique, tels que des séquestrants ; des parfums ; et des épaississants et gélifiants. Les quantités de ces différents adjuvants et leur nature seront choisies de manière à ne pas nuire aux propriétés de la composition. Actifs complémentaires35 De façon avantageuse, la ou les compositions (composition de pré-traitement agressif et composition de post-traitement à l'acide férulique) selon l'invention peuvent comprendre en outre au moins un actif cosmétique ou dermatologique choisi parmi les filtres UV, agents hydratants, les agents desquamants, les agents améliorant la fonction barrière, les agents dépigmentants, les agents antioxydants, les agents dermodécontractants ou agents dermorelaxants, les agents anti-glycation, les agents stimulant la synthèse des macromolécules dermiques et/ou épidermiques et/ou empêchant leur dégradation, les agents stimulant la prolifération des fibroblastes ou des kératinocytes et/ou la différenciation des kératinocytes, les agents favorisant la maturation de l'enveloppe cornée, les inhibiteurs de NO-synthases, les antagonistes des récepteurs périphériques des benzodiazépines (PBR), les agents augmentant l'activité de la glande sébacée, les agents stimulant le métabolisme énergétique des cellules, les agents séborégulateurs, les agents antimicrobiens, les agents apaisants et leurs mélanges. Ces actifs complémentaires pourront être présents dans la composition en une teneur allant de 0,001 à 20 % en poids, de préférence de 0,01 à 10 % en poids, et plus préférentiellement de 0,01 à 5 % en poids par rapport au poids total de la composition. The composition or compositions according to the invention may also contain various adjuvants commonly used in the cosmetics field, such as sequestering agents; perfumes ; and thickeners and gelling agents. The amounts of these various adjuvants and their nature will be chosen so as not to affect the properties of the composition. Advantageously, the composition (s) (aggressive pre-treatment composition and post-treatment composition with ferulic acid) according to the invention may further comprise at least one cosmetic or dermatological active agent chosen from UV screening agents. moisturizing agents, desquamating agents, barrier-improving agents, depigmenting agents, antioxidants, dermodecontracting or dermorelaxing agents, anti-glycation agents, agents stimulating the synthesis of dermal and / or epidermal macromolecules and / or preventing their degradation, agents stimulating proliferation of fibroblasts or keratinocytes and / or differentiation of keratinocytes, agents promoting the maturation of the horny envelope, inhibitors of NO-synthases, peripheral benzodiazepine receptor (PBR) antagonists , the agents increasing the activity of the sebaceous gland, the agents s stimulating energy metabolism of cells, sebum regulators, antimicrobial agents, soothing agents and mixtures thereof. These additional active agents may be present in the composition in a content ranging from 0.001% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.01% to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 0.01% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight. of the composition.
Selon une variante particulière de l'invention, l'acide férulique ou l'un de ses dérivés selon l'invention est mis en oeuvre conjointement avec au moins un actif choisi parmi les filtres UV, les agents hydratants, les agents antioxydants, les actifs stimulant la synthèse des macromoléculaires dermiques et/ou épidermiques, les agents apaisants et leurs mélanges. Dans le cas d'un soin pour la peau grasse, il pourra être en outre avantageux d'utiliser des agents séborégulateurs, des agents antimicrobiens, et leurs mélanges en association avec l'acide férulique. Ces actifs complémentaires pourront être présents dans la composition en une teneur allant de 0,001 à 20 % en poids, de préférence de 0,01 à 10 % en poids, et plus préférentiellement de 0,01 à 5 % en poids par rapport au poids total de la composition. According to one particular variant of the invention, the ferulic acid or one of its derivatives according to the invention is used in conjunction with at least one active agent chosen from UV screening agents, moisturizing agents, antioxidants and active agents. stimulating the synthesis of dermal and / or epidermal macromoleculars, soothing agents and mixtures thereof. In the case of a care for oily skin, it may be further advantageous to use sebo-regulating agents, antimicrobial agents, and mixtures thereof in combination with ferulic acid. These additional active agents may be present in the composition in a content ranging from 0.001% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.01% to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 0.01% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight. of the composition.
Des exemples d'actifs complémentaires sont donnés ci-dessous à titre illustratif. Examples of additional assets are given below for illustrative purposes.
Filtres UV A titre d'illustration des filtres UV et de façon non limitative, on peut citer les familles suivantes : les anthranilates, en particulier l'anthranilate de menthyle ; les benzophénones, en particulier la benzophénone-1, la benzophénone-3, la benzophénone-5, la benzophénone-6, la benzophénone-8, la benzophénone-9, la benzophénone-12, et préférentiellement la Benzophénone-2 (Oxybenzone), ou la Benzophénone-4 (Uvinul MS40 disponible chez B.A.S.F.) ; les benzylidènes-camphres, en particulier le 3-benzylidène-camphre, l'acide benzylidènecampho-sulfonique, le benzalkoniumméthosulfate de Camphre, le polyacrylamidométhylbenzylidène camphre, l'acide téréphthalylidène di-camphre sulfonique , et préférentiellement le 4-méthylbenzylidène camphre (Eusolex 6300 disponible chez Merck) ; les benzimidazoles, en particulier le benzimidazilate (Neo Heliopan AP disponible chez Haarmann et Reimer), ou l'acide phénylbenzimidazole sulfonique (Eusolex 232 disponible chez Merck) ; les benzotriazoles, en particulier le drométrizole trisiloxane, ou le méthylène bis- benzotriazolyltétraméthylbutylphénol (Tinosorb M disponible chez Ciba) ; les cinnamates, en particulier le cinoxate, le DEA méthoxycinnamate, le méthylcinnamate de diisopropyle, le glycéryl éthylhexanoate de diméthoxycinnamate, le méthoxycinnamate d'isopropyle, le cinnamate d'isoamyle, et préférentiellement l'éthocrylène (Uvinul N35 disponible chez B.A.S.F.), l'octylméthoxycinnamate (Parsol MCX disponible chez Hoffmann La Roche), ou l'octocrylène (Uvinul 539 disponible chez B.A.S.F.) ; les dibenzoylméthanes, en particulier le butyl méthoxydibenzoylméthane (Parsol 1789 ) ; les imidazolines, en particulier l'éthylhexyl diméthoxybenzylidène dioxoimidazoline ; les PABA, en particulier l'éthyl Dihydroxypropyl PABA, l'éthylhexyldiméthyl PABA, le glycéryl PABA, le PABA, le PEG-25 PABA, et préférentiellement la diéthylhexylbutamido-triazone (Uvasorb HEB disponible chez 3V Sigma), l'éthylhexyltriazone (Uvinul T150 disponible chez B.A.S.F.), ou l'éthyl PABA (benzocaïne) ; les salicylates, en particulier le salicyclate de dipropylèneglycol, le salicylate d'éthylhexyle, l'homosalate, ou le TEA salicylate ; les triazines, en particulier l'anisotriazine (Tinosorb S disponible chez Ciba) ; le drometrizole trisiloxane, l'oxyde de zinc, le dioxyde de titane, l'oxyde de zinc, de fer, de zirconium, de cerium enrobés ou non. De préférence, on utilise les cinnamates, les salicylates et leurs mélanges. La quantité de filtres dépend de l'utilisation finale souhaitée. Elle peut aller par exemple de 1 à 20 % en poids et mieux de 2 à 10 % en poids par rapport au poids total de la composition le contenant. UV Filters As an illustration of the UV filters, and in a nonlimiting manner, mention may be made of the following families: anthranilates, in particular menthyl anthranilate; benzophenones, in particular benzophenone-1, benzophenone-3, benzophenone-5, benzophenone-6, benzophenone-8, benzophenone-9, benzophenone-12, and preferentially benzophenone-2 (oxybenzone), or Benzophenone-4 (Uvinul MS40 available from BASF); benzylidenecamphers, in particular 3-benzylidene camphor, benzylidenecamphosulfonic acid, camphor benzalkonium methosulphate, polyacrylamidomethylbenzylidene camphor, terephthalylidene di-camphorsulfonic acid, and preferentially 4-methylbenzylidene camphor (Eusolex 6300 available). at Merck); benzimidazoles, in particular benzimidazilate (Neo Heliopan AP available from Haarmann and Reimer), or phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid (Eusolex 232 available from Merck); benzotriazoles, in particular trisiloxane drometzol, or methylene bis-benzotriazolyltetramethylbutylphenol (Tinosorb M available from Ciba); cinnamates, in particular cinoxate, DEA methoxycinnamate, diisopropyl methylcinnamate, dimethoxycinnamate glyceryl ethylhexanoate, isopropyl methoxycinnamate, isoamyl cinnamate, and preferably ethocrylene (Uvinul N35 available from BASF), octyl methoxycinnamate (Parsol MCX available from Hoffmann La Roche), or octocrylene (Uvinul 539 available from BASF); dibenzoylmethanes, especially butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane (Parsol 1789); imidazolines, in particular ethylhexyl dimethoxybenzylidene dioxoimidazoline; PABAs, in particular ethyl dihydroxypropyl PABA, ethylhexyldimethyl PABA, glyceryl PABA, PABA, PEG-25 PABA, and preferentially diethylhexylbutamido-triazone (Uvasorb HEB available from 3V Sigma), ethylhexyltriazone (Uvinul T150 available from BASF), or ethyl PABA (benzocaine); salicylates, especially dipropylene glycol salicyclate, ethylhexyl salicylate, homosalate, or TEA salicylate; triazines, in particular anisotriazine (Tinosorb S available from Ciba); trisiloxane drometrizole, zinc oxide, titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, iron, zirconium, cerium coated or uncoated. Preferably, cinnamates, salicylates and mixtures thereof are used. The amount of filters depends on the desired end use. It may range, for example, from 1 to 20% by weight and better still from 2 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition containing it.
Aqents hydratants Comme agents hydratants, on choisira notamment un agent choisi parmi le glycérol, l'urée et ses dérivés notamment l'Hydrovance commercialisée par National Starch, l'acide hyaluronique, les AHA, les BHA, des homopolymères d'acide acrylique comme le Lipidure-HM de NOF corporation, le beta-glucan et en particulier le sodium carboxymethyl beta-glucane de Mibelle-AG-Biochemistry ; un mélange d'huiles de passiflore, d'abricot, maïs, et son de riz commercialisé par Nestlé sous la dénomination NutraLipids . ; un dérivé C-glycoside tel que ceux décrits dans la demande WO 02/051828 et en particulier le C-13-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxy-propane sous forme d'une solution à 30 % en poids en matière active dans un mélange eau/propylène glycol (60/40 % en poids) tel que le produit fabriqué par CHIMEX sous la dénomination commerciale MEXORYL SBB ; une huile de rosier muscat commercialisée par Nestlé ; un extrait de micro-algue Prophyridium cruentum enrichi en zinc commercialisé par Vincience sous la dénomination Algualane Zinc ; des sphères de collagène et de chondroitine sulfate d'origine marine (Ateocollagen) commercialisées par la société Engelhard Lyon sous la dénomination sphères de comblement marines ; des sphères d'acide hyaluronique telles que celles commercialisées par la société Engelhard Lyon ; et l'arginine. Selon un mode particulier, on utilisera le C-13-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxy-propane sous forme d'une solution à 30 % en poids en matière active dans un mélange eau/propylène glycol (60/40 % en poids) tel que le produit fabriqué par CHIMEX sous la dénomination commerciale MEXORYL SBB . Moisturizing agents As moisturizing agents, one will choose in particular an agent chosen from glycerol, urea and its derivatives including Hydrovance marketed by National Starch, hyaluronic acid, AHA, BHA, homopolymers of acrylic acid such as Lipidure-HM from NOF Corporation, beta-glucan and in particular sodium carboxymethyl beta-glucan from Mibelle-AG-Biochemistry; a mixture of passionflower, apricot, corn and rice bran oils marketed by Nestlé under the name NutraLipids. ; a C-glycoside derivative such as those described in patent application WO 02/051828 and in particular C-13-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane in the form of a solution containing 30% by weight of active material in a mixture water / propylene glycol (60/40% by weight) such as the product manufactured by CHIMEX under the trade name MEXORYL SBB; a muscat rose oil marketed by Nestlé; an extract of microalga Prophyridium cruentum enriched in zinc marketed by Vincience under the name Algualane Zinc; spheres of collagen and chondroitin sulfate of marine origin (Ateocollagen) marketed by Engelhard Lyon under the name marine filling spheres; spheres of hyaluronic acid such as those marketed by Engelhard Lyon; and arginine. According to one particular embodiment, C-13-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxy-propane will be used in the form of a solution containing 30% by weight of active material in a water / propylene glycol mixture (60/40% by weight) such as the product manufactured by CHIMEX under the trade name MEXORYL SBB.
Agents antioxydants Comme agent antioxydant préféré, on peut plus particulièrement citer le tocophérol (vit E) et ses dérivés en particulier ses esters, et préférentiellement l'acétate de tocophérol ; l'acide ascorbique et ses dérivés, en particulier l'ascorbyl magnésium phosphate et l'ascorbyl glucoside ; le rétinol et ses esters, en particulier le retinyl palmitate, les chélatants, tels que le BHT, le BHA, le N,N'-bis(3,4,5-triméthoxybenzyl) éthylenediamine et ses sels , les polyphénols, et leurs mélanges. Encore plus préférentiellement, on utilisera le tocopherol et ses esters, le rétinol et ses esters et leurs mélanges. Antioxidant Agents As preferred antioxidant agent, mention may more particularly be made of tocopherol (vit E) and its derivatives, in particular its esters, and preferably tocopherol acetate; ascorbic acid and its derivatives, in particular ascorbyl magnesium phosphate and ascorbyl glucoside; retinol and its esters, in particular retinyl palmitate, chelating agents, such as BHT, BHA, N, N'-bis (3,4,5-trimethoxybenzyl) ethylenediamine and its salts, polyphenols, and mixtures thereof . Even more preferentially, tocopherol and its esters, retinol and its esters and their mixtures will be used.
Actifs stimulant la synthèse de macromolécules dermiques et/ou épidermiques et/ou empêchant leur déqradation Comme actifs préférés stimulant la synthèse de macromolécules dermiques et/ou épidermiques et/ou empêchant leur dégradation, on peut citer : les peptides extraits de végétaux, tels que l'hydrolysat de soja commercialisé par la société COLETICA sous la dénomination commerciale Phytokine l'extrait de malt tel que commercialisé sous la dénomination Collalift par la société Engelhard Lyon ; les peptides de riz tel que le Nutripeptide de SILAB, ou encore un extrait de peptides de riz tel que la Colhibin de Pentapharm, le méthylsilanol mannuronate tel que l'Algisium C commercialisé par Exsymol ; le rétinol et ses esters, en particulier le palmitate de rétinol ; un extrait de vaccinium myrtillus tel que ceux décrits dans la demande FR-A-2814950 ; l'extrait de lupin commercialisé par la société SILAB sous la dénomination commerciale Structurine , un dérivé C-glycoside tel que ceux décrits dans la demande WO 02/051828 et en particulier le C-13-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxy-propane sous forme d'une solution à 30 % en poids en matière active dans un mélange eau/propylène glycol (60/40 % en poids) tel que le produit fabriqué par CHIMEX sous la dénomination commerciale MEXORYL SBB , la vitamine C et ses dérivés, et leurs mélanges. En particulier, on utilisera le rétinol ou l'un de ses esters, notamment le palmitate de rétinol. Assets stimulating the synthesis of dermal and / or epidermal macromolecules and / or preventing their de-irradiation As preferred active agents stimulating the synthesis of dermal and / or epidermal macromolecules and / or preventing their degradation, mention may be made of: peptides extracted from plants, such as soya hydrolyzate marketed by the company Coletica under the trade name Phytokine malt extract as marketed under the name Collalift by the company Engelhard Lyon; rice peptides such as Nutripeptide from SILAB, or an extract of rice peptides such as Pentapharm's Colhibin, methylsilanol mannuronate such as Algisium C marketed by Exsymol; retinol and its esters, in particular retinol palmitate; an extract of vaccinium myrtillus such as those described in application FR-A-2814950; the lupine extract marketed by Silab under the trademark Structurine, a C-glycoside derivative such as those described in application WO 02/051828 and in particular C-13-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane under form of a solution containing 30% by weight of active material in a water / propylene glycol mixture (60/40% by weight), such as the product manufactured by Chimex under the trade name MEXORYL SBB, vitamin C and its derivatives, and their mixtures. In particular, use retinol or one of its esters, including retinol palmitate.
Actifs apaisants On entend par agent apaisant un composé permettant de réduire la sensation de picotements, de démangeaisons ou de tiraillements de la peau. Comme agents apaisants, on peut citer l'acide b-glycyrrhétinique et ses sels ou dérivés (le stearyl glycyrrhetate, l'acide 3-stéaroyloxy glycyrrhétique, l'acide glycyrrhétinique monoglucuronide) ainsi que les plantes en contenant (ex : Glycyrrhiza glabra) ; l'acide ursolique et ses sels ; les extraits de Centella asiatica, l'huile de Canola, le bisabolol ; les extraits de camomille, l'allantoïne ; un mélange d'extrait de fleur de nénuphar et de palmitoylproline tel que celui vendu sous la dénomination "Seppicalm VG " par la société Seppic ; l'aloe vera, l'eau de rose, un extrait de menthe, en particulier de feuilles de menthe comme le Calmiskin de Silab, les bactéries filamenteuse comme Vitreoscilla filiformis tel que décrit dans le brevet EP 761 204 et commercialisé par Chimex sous la dénomination Mexoryl SBG , un extrait de pétales de rose comme le Rose Flower Herbasol extract de la société Cosmetochem, le beurre de karité, un extrait fermenté d'Alteromonas commercialisé sous la dénomination ABYSSINE par la société Atrium Biotechnologies ; les eaux thermales ou minérales ayant une minéralisation d'au moins 300 mg/I, en particulier l'eau d'Avène, l'eau de Vittel, les eaux du bassin de Vichy, l'eau d'Uriage, l'eau de la Roche Posay, l'eau de la Bourboule, l'eau d'Enghien-les-bains, l'eau de Saint-Gervais-les bains, l'eau de Néris-les-bains, l'eau d'Allevard-les-bains, l'eau de Digne, l'eau des Maizières, l'eau de Neyrac-les-bains, l'eau de Lons le Saunier, les Eaux Bonnes, l'eau de Rochefort, l'eau de Saint Christau, l'eau des Fumades et l'eau de Tercis-les-bains; un extrait d'écorce d'Eperua falcata tel que celui commercialisé par la société COGNIS sous al dénomination Eperuline ; un extrait de racine de Paeonia suffructicosa tel que celui commercialisé par la société Ichimaru Pharcos sous la dénomination Botanpi Liquid B ; et leurs mélanges. Soothing active ingredients A soothing agent is a compound that reduces the sensation of tingling, itching, or tightness of the skin. As soothing agents, mention may be made of b-glycyrrhetinic acid and its salts or derivatives (stearyl glycyrrhetate, 3-stearoyloxy glycyrrhetic acid, glycyrrhetinic acid monoglucuronide) as well as the plants containing it (eg Glycyrrhiza glabra); ursolic acid and its salts; extracts of Centella asiatica, canola oil, bisabolol; chamomile extracts, allantoin; a mixture of water lily flower extract and palmitoylproline such as that sold under the name Seppicalm VG by the company Seppic; aloe vera, rose water, mint extract, in particular mint leaves such as Silab's Calmiskin, filamentous bacteria such as Vitreoscilla filiformis as described in patent EP 761 204 and marketed by Chimex under the name Mexoryl SBG, an extract of rose petals such as Rose Flower Herbasol extract from Cosmetochem, shea butter, a fermented extract of Alteromonas marketed under the name ABYSSINE by the company Atrium Biotechnologies; thermal or mineral waters with a mineralization of at least 300 mg / I, in particular Avène water, Vittel water, Vichy basin water, Uriage water, water from La Roche Posay, the water of the Bourboule, the water of Enghien-les-Bains, the water of Saint-Gervais-les Bains, the water of Néris-les-Bains, the water of Allevard- the baths, the water of Digne, the water of the Maizières, the water of Neyrac-les-bains, the water of Lons le Saunier, the Good Waters, the water of Rochefort, the water of Saint Christau , the water of Fumades and the water of Tercis-les-bains; an extract of Eperua falcata bark such as that marketed by the company COGNIS under the name Eperuline; an extract of Paeonia suffructicosa root such as that marketed by the company Ichimaru Pharcos under the name Botanpi Liquid B; and their mixtures.
De préférence, on utilisera les eaux du bassin de Vichy ou l'eau de la Riche Posay. Preferably, the waters of the Vichy basin or the water of the Riche Posay will be used.
Agents sébo-régulateurs Comme agents séborégulateurs, on citera notamment : - la criste marine ; - les mélanges d'extrait de canelle, de thé et d'octanoylglycine tel que le Sepicontrol A5 TEA de chez Seppic ; - le mélange de capryloyl glycine, de sarcosine et d'extrait de cinnamomum zeylanicum commercialisé notamment par la société SEPPIC sous la dénomination commerciale Sepicontrol A5 ; - les sels de zinc tels que le gluconate de zinc, le pyrrolidone carboxylate de zinc (ou pidolate de zinc), le lactate de zinc, l'aspartate de zinc, le carboxylate de zinc, le 15 salicylate de zinc, le cystéate de zinc ; - les sels de cuivre, en particulier le pidolate de cuivre ; - les extraits de reine des prés (spiraea ulamaria) tel que celui vendu sous la dénomination Sébonormine par la société Silab ; - les extraits d'algue laminaria saccharina tel que celui vendu sous la dénomination 20 Phlorogine par la société Biotechmarine ; - les mélanges d'extraits de racines de pimprenelle (sanguisorba officinalis/poterium officinale), de rhizomes de gingembre (zingiber officinalis) et d'écorce de cannelier (cinnamomum cassia) tel que celui vendu sous la dénomination Sebustop par la société Solabia ; 25 - les sapogénines ou extraits végétaux en contenant, en particulier les extraits de Dioscorées riches en diosgénine, et leurs mélanges. Sebo-regulating agents Sebo-regulating agents include: - sea fennel; mixtures of cinnamon extract, tea and octanoylglycine such as Sepicontrol A5 TEA from Seppic; - the mixture of capryloyl glycine, sarcosine and extract cinnamomum zeylanicum marketed in particular by the company SEPPIC under the trade name Sepicontrol A5; zinc salts such as zinc gluconate, zinc pyrrolidone carboxylate (or zinc pidolate), zinc lactate, zinc aspartate, zinc carboxylate, zinc salicylate, zinc cysteate ; copper salts, in particular copper pidolate; - meadowsweet extracts (Spiraea ulamaria) such as that sold under the name Sébonormine by the company Silab; algae extracts laminaria saccharina such as that sold under the name Phlorogine by the company Biotechmarine; mixtures of extracts of burnet root (Sanguisorba officinalis / Poterium officinale), of ginger rhizomes (Zingiber officinalis) and of cinnamon bark (Cinnamomum cassia), such as that sold under the name Sebustop by the company Solabia; Sapogenins or plant extracts containing them, in particular dioscenyl-rich dioscorea extracts, and mixtures thereof.
30 Aqents anti-microbiens 30 Anti-microbial agents
Par agents anti-microbiens, on entend des agents ayant des effets sur la flore spécifique des peaux grasses, tels que par exemple le P acnes. Ces effets peuvent être soit bactéricides, soit anti-adhésion bactérienne (prévient et/ou 35 réduit l'adhésion des micro-organismes) soit agissant sur le biofilm des bactéries pour éviter leur multiplication. By anti-microbial agents is meant agents having effects on the specific flora of oily skin, such as, for example, P acnes. These effects can be either bactericidal or bacterial anti-adhesion (prevents and / or reduces the adhesion of microorganisms) or act on the biofilm of bacteria to prevent their multiplication.
19 On peut citer notamment les actifs et conservateurs à activité anti-microbienne cités dans la demande DE10324567. On peut également citer l'acide .10-hydroxy-2 decanoique comme l'Acnacidol P de Vincience, l'ursolate de sodium, l'acide azélaique, le di-iodomethyl P tolylsulfone ou l'Amical Flowâblee de Angus, la la poudre de Malachite de Maprecos, l'oxyde de zinc tel que le Zincare de Elementis GMBH, l'acide octadécènedioïque tel que l'arlatone dioic DCA de Uniqema, l'acide phthalimidoperoxyhexanoique ou Eureco HC de Chemron Corporation ; l'acide ellagique ; le 2,4,4'-trichloro-2'-hydroxy diphényl éther (ou triclosan), la 1-(3',4'-dichlorophenyl)-3-(4'- chlorophenyl)urée (ou triclocarban), le 3,4,4'-trichlorocarbanilide, le 3',4',5'- trichlorosalicylanilide, le phénoxyéthanol, le phénoxypropanol, le phénoxyisopropanol, le peroxyde de benzoyle, l'acide 3-hydroxy benzoïque, l'acide 4-hydroxy benzoïque, l'acide phytique, la N-acétyl-L-cystéine, l'acide lipoïque, l'acide azélaïque et ses sels, l'acide arachidonique, le résorcinol, le 3,4,4'-trichlorocarbanalide, l'octopirox ou piroctone olamine, l'octoxyglycérine ou octoglycérine, l'octanoylglycine (Lipacid C8G de Seppic), le caprylyl glycol, l'acide 10-hydroxy-2-décanoïque, le dichlorophenyl imidazol dioxolan et ses dérivés décrits dans la demande de brevet W09318743, les dérivés de zinc et en particulier le pidolate de zinc (Zincidone de Solabia), les dérivés de cuivre et en particulier le pidolate de cuivre (Cuivridonee de Solabia), l'acide salicylique et ses dérivés, l'iodopropynyl butylcarbamate, le 3,7,11-triméthyldodéca-2,5,10-triénol ou farnesol, les phytosphingosines ; le Sepicontrol de Seppic, un extrait d'arganier comme l'Argapure LS9710 , le Sebosoft de Sederma, les sels d'ammonium quaternaires comme les sels de cetyltrimethylammonium, les sels de cétylpyridinium , l'éthanol...et leurs mélanges. The active agents and preservatives with anti-microbial activity mentioned in application DE10324567 may be mentioned in particular. It may also be mentioned 10-hydroxy-2 decanoic acid such as Vincience Acnacidol P, sodium ursolate, azelaic acid, di-iodomethyl P tolylsulfone or Angus Flowable Amicale, the powder Malachite de Maprecos, zinc oxide such as Zincare from Elementis GMBH, octadecenedioic acid such as arlatone dioic DCA from Uniqema, phthalimidoperoxyhexanoic acid or Eureco HC from Chemron Corporation; ellagic acid; 2,4,4'-trichloro-2'-hydroxy-diphenyl ether (or triclosan), 1- (3 ', 4'-dichlorophenyl) -3- (4'-chlorophenyl) urea (or triclocarban), 3 4,4'-trichlorocarbanilide, 3 ', 4', 5'-trichlorosalicylanilide, phenoxyethanol, phenoxypropanol, phenoxyisopropanol, benzoyl peroxide, 3-hydroxybenzoic acid, 4-hydroxybenzoic acid, phytic acid, N-acetyl-L-cysteine, lipoic acid, azelaic acid and its salts, arachidonic acid, resorcinol, 3,4,4'-trichlorocarbanalide, octopirox or piroctone olamine, octoxyglycerine or octoglycerine, octanoylglycine (Lipacid C8G Seppic), caprylyl glycol, 10-hydroxy-2-decanoic acid, dichlorophenyl imidazol dioxolan and its derivatives described in patent application WO9318743, derivatives zinc and in particular zinc pidolate (Zincidone de Solabia), copper derivatives and in particular copper pidolate (Cuivridonee from Solabia), salicylic acid and its dice riveted, iodopropynyl butylcarbamate, 3,7,11-trimethyldodeca-2,5,10-trienol or farnesol, phytosphingosines; Seppic Sepicontrol, an argan extract such as Argapure LS9710, Sebosoft Sederma, quaternary ammonium salts such as cetyltrimethylammonium salts, cetylpyridinium salts, ethanol ... and mixtures thereof.
Selon un mode particulier, la composition selon l'invention, utilisé en post-traitement d'un traitement agressif de type chimique, mécanique et/ou physique, comprend au moins de l'acide férulique -ou l'un de ses dérivés, et un actif complémentaire choisi parmi un filtre UV, un agent hydratant, un agent antioxydant, un actif stimulant la synthèse de macromolécules dermiques et/ou épidermiques et/ou empêchant leur dégradation, un agent séborégulateur, un agent apaisant et leurs mélanges. According to one particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention, used in post-treatment of an aggressive treatment of chemical, mechanical and / or physical type, comprises at least ferulic acid or one of its derivatives, and a complementary active agent chosen from a UV filter, a moisturizing agent, an antioxidant, an active agent stimulating the synthesis of dermal and / or epidermal macromolecules and / or preventing their degradation, a sebum regulating agent, a soothing agent and mixtures thereof.
Selon un mode préféré, ladite composition selon l'invention comprend au moins de l'acide férulique et au moins un actif complémentaire choisi parmi le glycérol, la vitamine C et ses dérivés, la vitamine E et ses dérivés, le C-6-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxy-propane, les eaux thermales de Vichy ou de la Roche Posay, et leurs mélanges. According to a preferred embodiment, said composition according to the invention comprises at least ferulic acid and at least one complementary active agent chosen from glycerol, vitamin C and its derivatives, vitamin E and its derivatives, C-6-D -xylopyranoside-2-hydroxy-propane, the thermal waters of Vichy or Roche Posay, and their mixtures.
Une composition conforme à la présente invention peut comprendre un ou plusieurs actifs complémentaires parmi ceux précités en une teneur allant de 0,001 % à 20 % et préférentiellement de 0,01 % à 10 %, encore plus préférentiellement de 0,05 à 5% en poids par rapport au poids total de la composition. A composition in accordance with the present invention may comprise one or more additional active agents among those mentioned above in a content ranging from 0.001% to 20% and preferably from 0.01% to 10%, even more preferentially from 0.05 to 5% by weight. relative to the total weight of the composition.
L'invention porte également sur un procédé cosmétique de soin et/ou de traitement de la peau comprenant de façon successive et/ou décalée dans le temps : a) une étape de pré-traitement cosmétique de nature chimique et/ou mécanique et/ou physique de la peau tel que défini précédemment susceptible d'altérer l'état de surface de la peau; éventuellement suivie d'une étape de rinçage de la peau ; b) une étape de post-traitement comprenant l'application topique notamment sur les zones de peau traitées à l'étape a), d'une composition de soin comprenant au moins de l'acide férulique ou l'un de ses dérivés. The invention also relates to a cosmetic process for the care and / or treatment of the skin comprising successively and / or staggered in time: a) a cosmetic pre-treatment step of a chemical and / or mechanical nature and / or skin physics as defined previously that may alter the surface condition of the skin; optionally followed by a rinsing step of the skin; b) a post-treatment step comprising the topical application especially to the skin areas treated in step a), a care composition comprising at least ferulic acid or a derivative thereof.
Des exemples de traitement cosmétique de nature chimique (peeling), mécanique (exfoliation/micro-abrasion, rasage, épilation) et/ou physique (photothérapie) susceptible d'altérer l'état de surface de la peau, en particulier d'altérer la cohésion et/ou l'organisation de la couche cornée, sont décrits précédemment dans la description. Examples of cosmetic treatment of chemical nature (peeling), mechanical (exfoliation / micro-abrasion, shaving, hair removal) and / or physical (phototherapy) likely to alter the surface state of the skin, in particular to alter the cohesion and / or the organization of the stratum corneum are described previously in the description.
Selon un mode particulier, le procédé selon l'invention comprend de façon successive ou décalée dans le temps : a) l'application topique sur la peau, en particulier au niveau du visage, d'une composition de pré-traitement de type peeling comprenant au moins un agent desquamant choisi parmi les AHA et dérivés, les BHA et dérivés, et leurs mélanges ; suivie d'une étape de rinçage de la peau ; puis b) l'application topique notamment sur les zones de peau traitées à l'étape a), d'une composition de soin post-traitement comprenant au moins de l'acide férulique ou l'un de ses dérivés, et éventuellement un actif complémentaire choisi parmi un filtre UV, un agent hydratant, un agent antioxydant, un actif stimulant la synthèse de macromolécules dermiques et/ou épidermiques et/ou empêchant leur dégradation, un agent séborégulateur, un agent apaisant et leurs mélanges. En particulier, l'agent desquamant est présent dans la composition de l'étape a), à une teneur d'au moins 3% en poids par rapport au poids total de ladite composition, en particulier de 3 à 30% et de préférence de 3 à 15% en poids par rapport au poids total de ladite composition. According to one particular embodiment, the process according to the invention comprises, successively or staggered over time: a) topical application to the skin, in particular at the level of the face, of a peeling-type pre-treatment composition comprising at least one desquamating agent chosen from AHAs and derivatives, BHAs and derivatives, and mixtures thereof; followed by a rinsing step of the skin; and then b) the topical application, in particular on the skin areas treated in step a), of a post-treatment care composition comprising at least ferulic acid or one of its derivatives, and optionally an active ingredient. complementary agent chosen from a UV filter, a moisturizing agent, an antioxidant, an active agent stimulating the synthesis of dermal and / or epidermal macromolecules and / or preventing their degradation, a sebumregulating agent, a soothing agent and mixtures thereof. In particular, the desquamating agent is present in the composition of step a), at a content of at least 3% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition, in particular from 3 to 30% and preferably from 3 to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition.
De façon avantageuse, l'agent desquamant est choisi parmi l'urée, l'HEPES, l'acide glycolique et leurs mélanges. Advantageously, the desquamating agent is selected from urea, HEPES, glycolic acid and mixtures thereof.
Selon un mode préféré de l'invention : - la composition de pré-traitement utilisée à l'étape a) comprend, dans un milieu physiologiquement acceptable, au moins un AHA, en particulier de l'acide glycolique ; - la composition de post-traitement de l'étape b) comprend, dans un milieu physiologiquement acceptable, au moins de l'acide férulique et au moins un actif complémentaire choisi parmi le glycérol, la vitamine C et ses dérivés, la vitamine E et ses dérivés, le C-G3-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxy-propane, les eaux thermales de Vichy ou de la Roche Posay, et leurs mélanges. According to a preferred embodiment of the invention: the pre-treatment composition used in step a) comprises, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one AHA, in particular glycolic acid; the post-treatment composition of step b) comprises, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least ferulic acid and at least one complementary active agent chosen from glycerol, vitamin C and its derivatives, vitamin E and its derivatives, C-G3-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxy-propane, the thermal waters of Vichy or Roche Posay, and their mixtures.
Le pré-traitement chimique, mécanique et/ou physique pourra être réalisé de 1 fois par jour à 1 fois par mois. Le soin (post-traitement) à l'acide férulique ou l'un de ses dérivés pourra être appliqué sur la peau fragilisée et/ou altérée par le pré-traitement chimique, mécanique et/ou physique, à raison d'une à deux fois par jour, pendant allant une durée de 1 à 4 semaines. The chemical, mechanical and / or physical pre-treatment can be carried out from once a day to once a month. Care (post-treatment) with ferulic acid or one of its derivatives may be applied to skin weakened and / or impaired by chemical, mechanical and / or physical pre-treatment, one to two once a day for a duration of 1 to 4 weeks.
Les procédés selon l'invention, en une étape (post-traitement à l'acide férulique d'une peau fragilisée et/ou altérée) ou en deux étapes (étape a) de traitement agressif puis étape b) de soin post-traitement à l'acide férulique), sont notamment destinés à améliorer la texture, la souplesse, la douceur, l'hydratation, l'homogénéité, l'éclat du teint, et/ou la transparence de la peau. The methods according to the invention, in one step (post-treatment with ferulic acid of a weakened and / or impaired skin) or in two stages (step a) of aggressive treatment and then step b) of post-treatment care at ferulic acid), are intended in particular to improve the texture, the suppleness, the softness, the hydration, the homogeneity, the radiance of the complexion, and / or the transparency of the skin.
L'invention porte également sur l'utilisation cosmétique de l'acide férulique ou l'un de ses dérivés dans une composition contenant un milieu physiologiquement acceptable, comme agent destiné à améliorer l'état de surface d'une peau altérée et/ou fragilisée par un traitement chimique, mécanique et/ou physique. The invention also relates to the cosmetic use of ferulic acid or one of its derivatives in a composition containing a physiologically acceptable medium, as an agent intended to improve the surface condition of an altered and / or weakened skin. by a chemical, mechanical and / or physical treatment.
En particulier, l'acide férulique ou l'un de ses dérivés améliore la cohésion et/ou l'organisation de la couche cornée de ladite peau altérée et/ou fragilisée par un traitement chimique, mécanique et/ou physique. In particular, ferulic acid or one of its derivatives improves the cohesion and / or organization of the stratum corneum of said skin altered and / or weakened by a chemical, mechanical and / or physical treatment.
Un autre objet de l'invention est un ensemble ou kit de soin et/ou de traitement de la peau comprenant : (i) une première composition comprenant un agent choisi parmi un agent desquamant, un agent exfoliant, un agent anti-acné, susceptible de fragiliser et/ou altérer l'état de surface de la peau, et (ii) une seconde composition comprenant, dans un milieu physiologiquement acceptable, au moins de l'acide férulique ou l'un de ses dérivés. Il peut s'agir d'un ensemble ou kit cosmétique, ou dermatologique. Another object of the invention is a skin care and / or treatment kit or kit comprising: (i) a first composition comprising an agent selected from a desquamating agent, an exfoliating agent, an anti-acne agent, capable of weakening and / or altering the surface condition of the skin, and (ii) a second composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least ferulic acid or a derivative thereof. It can be a set or cosmetic kit, or dermatological.
Des exemples d'agents desquamants, exfoliants, anti-acné préférés sont décrits précédemment dans la description. Les teneurs en acide férulique et en agents desquamant, exfoliant, anti-acné sont décrites précédemment dans la description. Examples of preferred desquamating, exfoliating, anti-acne agents are described previously in the description. The contents of ferulic acid and desquamating, exfoliating, anti-acne agents are described previously in the description.
Selon un mode particulier, la première composition comprend au moins un agent desquamant choisi parmi les a-hydroxyacides (AHA) tels que l'acide citrique, lactique, glycolique, malique, tartrique ou mandélique ; les R-hydroxyacides (BHA) tels que l'acide salicylique ou l'acide n-octanoyl-5-salicylique ; l'urée ; les composés aminosulfoniques et en particulier l'acide (N-2 hydroxyéthylpiperazine-N-2-éthane) sulfonique (HEPES) ; et les dérivés de l'acide 2-oxothiazolidine-4-carboxylique (procystéine), et leurs mélanges. L'urée, l'acide glycolique, l'HEPES et leurs mélanges sont préférés. La quantité d'agent(s) desquamant(s) peut représenter de 3 à 30%, en particulier de 3 à 15% du poids de la composition de peeling. According to one particular embodiment, the first composition comprises at least one desquamating agent chosen from α-hydroxy acids (AHA) such as citric, lactic, glycolic, malic, tartaric or mandelic acid; R-hydroxyacids (BHA) such as salicylic acid or n-octanoyl-5-salicylic acid; urea; aminosulfonic compounds and in particular (N-2-hydroxyethylpiperazine-N-2-ethane) sulfonic acid (HEPES); and derivatives of 2-oxothiazolidine-4-carboxylic acid (procysteine), and mixtures thereof. Urea, glycolic acid, HEPES and mixtures thereof are preferred. The amount of desquamating agent (s) may represent from 3 to 30%, in particular from 3 to 15% by weight of the peel composition.
La seconde composition comprend au moins de l'acide férulique ou de l'éthyl férulate en une teneur allant de 0,01 à 10% en poids par rapport au poids total de ladite seconde composition. The second composition comprises at least ferulic acid or ethyl ferulate in a content ranging from 0.01 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of said second composition.
Les première et seconde compositions pour la mise en oeuvre de cet ensemble cosmétique sont conditionnées séparément à l'intérieur de deux compartiments, formés soit par deux récipients distincts, soit à l'intérieur d'un dispositif unitaire. Le ou les récipient(s) peu(ven)t être sous toute forme adéquate. II(s) peu(ven)t être notamment sous forme d'un flacon, d'un tube, d'un pot, d'un étui, d'une boite, d'un sachet ou d'un boîtier. The first and second compositions for the implementation of this cosmetic assembly are packaged separately inside two compartments, formed either by two separate containers or inside a unitary device. The container (s) may be in any suitable form. II (s) can be in particular in the form of a bottle, a tube, a pot, a case, a box, a bag or a case.
Par dispositif unitaire , on entend un dispositif par lequel les deux compartiments ou récipients sont solidaires l'un de l'autre. Un tel dispositif peut être obtenu par un procédé de moulage en une seule pièce des deux compartiments, notamment en un matériau thermoplastique. Il peut également résulter de toute forme d'assemblage, notamment par collage, soudage, ou autre encliquetage. Selon une alternative, l'invention concerne un ensemble cosmétique ou kit de rasage et/ou d'épilation de la peau comprenant : (i) un dispositif de rasage et/ou d'épilation susceptible de fragiliser et/ou altérer l'état de surface de la peau, et (ii) une composition comprenant, dans un milieu physiologiquement acceptable, au moins de l'acide férulique ou l'un de ses dérivés. By unitary device is meant a device by which the two compartments or containers are integral with each other. Such a device can be obtained by a method of molding in one piece of the two compartments, in particular a thermoplastic material. It can also result from any form of assembly, especially by gluing, welding, or other snap. According to an alternative, the invention relates to a cosmetic or shaving kit and / or hair removal comprising: (i) a shaving device and / or hair removal likely to weaken and / or alter the state of surface of the skin, and (ii) a composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least ferulic acid or a derivative thereof.
Selon encore une autre alternative, l'invention concerne un ensemble ou kit cosmétique ou dermatolgique de de soin de la peau comprenant : (i) un dispositif de type Laser, IPL, LED émettant notamment un rayonnement lumineux allant de 400 à 1000nm susceptible de fragiliser et/ou altérer l'état de surface de la peau, et (ii) une composition comprenant, dans un milieu physiologiquement acceptable, au moins de l'acide férulique ou l'un de ses dérivés. According to yet another alternative, the invention relates to a cosmetic or dermatological skin care kit or kit comprising: (i) a device of the Laser, IPL, LED type emitting in particular a light radiation ranging from 400 to 1000 nm capable of weakening and / or altering the surface state of the skin, and (ii) a composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least ferulic acid or a derivative thereof.
Les exemples qui suivent servent à illustrer l'invention sans toutefois présenter un caractère limitatif. Les composés sont, selon le cas, cités en noms chimiques ou en noms CTFA (International Cosmetic Ingrédient Dictionary and Handbook). The examples which follow serve to illustrate the invention without, however, being limiting in nature. The compounds are, as the case may be, listed in chemical names or CTFA names (International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook).
Exemple 1 : Mesure de l'effet de l'acide férulique sur l'expression de marqueurs de différenciation kératinocvtaire. Protocole35 Les kératinocytes humains normaux (NHEK) sont ensemencés en plaque 96 puits et cultivés en milieu Kératinocyte-SFM (SFM, Invitrogen contenant EGF 0.25ng/ml, Extrait pituitaire 25pg/ml et Gentamycine 25pg/ml) à 37°C et 5% de CO2 pendant 24 heures. Après incubation, le milieu de culture a été retiré et remplacé par du milieu de culture contenant ou non (témoin) le produit à l'essai (acide férulique de la société Oryza Oil & Fat Chemical à la concentration de 100pg/ml et 10pg/ml) ou les références, respectivement anti-différenciante (Acide rétinoïque de la société Sigma) et pro-différenciante (Chlorure de calcium de la société Prolabo). Les cellules ont ensuite été incubées à 37°C pendant 72h. Chaque condition expérimentale a été réalisée en triplicate. L'analyse a été réalisée par immunomarquages et analyse d'image. Les tapis cellulaires ont été marqués par l'anticorps primaire correspondant à chaque marqueur sélectionné : anticorps anti-TGK (Tebu) et anticorps anti-filaggrin (Tebu), 1 heure à température ambiante, puis révélés par un anticorps secondaire anti- immunoglobulines de lapin-FITC ou anti-immunoglobulines de souris-FITC (Tebu). Des contrôles sans anticorps primaire (anticorps secondaire seul) ont été réalisés pour vérifier l'absence de marquage non spécifique. En parallèle, les noyaux ont été colorés par incubation avec une solution de colorant de Hoechst (Sigma). Example 1 Measurement of the Effect of Ferulic Acid on the Expression of Markers of Keratin Differentiation Protocol35 Normal human keratinocytes (NHEK) are inoculated into a 96-well plate and cultured in Keratinocyte-SFM medium (SFM, Invitrogen containing EGF 0.25 ng / ml, Pituitary extract 25 μg / ml and Gentamycin 25 μg / ml) at 37 ° C. and 5%. of CO2 for 24 hours. After incubation, the culture medium was removed and replaced with culture medium containing or not (control) the test product (ferulic acid of the company Oryza Oil & Fat Chemical at the concentration of 100pg / ml and 10pg / ml) or references, respectively anti-differentiating (Retinoic acid from Sigma) and pro-differentiating (Calcium chloride from Prolabo). The cells were then incubated at 37 ° C for 72h. Each experimental condition was carried out in triplicate. The analysis was performed by immunostaining and image analysis. The cell mats were labeled with the primary antibody corresponding to each selected marker: anti-TGK antibody (Tebu) and anti-filaggrin antibody (Tebu), 1 hour at room temperature, then revealed by a secondary anti-rabbit immunoglobulin antibody. -FITC or mouse anti-immunoglobulin-FITC (Tebu). Controls without primary antibody (secondary antibody alone) were performed to verify the absence of non-specific labeling. In parallel, the nuclei were stained by incubation with a solution of Hoechst dye (Sigma).
L'analyse des différents marquages fluorescents a été réalisée à l'aide d'un système d'imagerie à haute résolution InCell AnalyzerTM 1000 par mesure de 4 zones par puits. L'intensité verte globale, représentative de l'expression de la TGK ou de la filaggrine selon le test, a été rapportée au nombre de noyaux (bleus) afin de déterminer une intensité de fluorescence par cellule. The analysis of the different fluorescent markings was carried out using a high resolution InCell AnalyzerTM 1000 imaging system by measuring 4 zones per well. The overall green intensity, representative of the expression of TGK or filaggrin according to the test, was related to the number of (blue) nuclei in order to determine a fluorescence intensity per cell.
Les données brutes sont transférées et traitées sous le logiciel PRISM (Graph Pad Software). Les comparaisons intergroupes ont été réalisées par une analyse de variance (ANOVA) suivi du test de comparaison multiple de Dunnett. Raw data is transferred and processed using the Graph Pad Software (PRISM). Intergroup comparisons were performed using an analysis of variance (ANOVA) followed by Dunnett's multiple comparison test.
Résultats Traitement Concentration Transglutaminase Filaggrine TGK % témoin témoin Témoin 100 100 CaCl2 1.5 mM 192 373 Acide rétinoique 10-7 M 31 1030 Acide férulique 10pg/ml 126* 234* Acide férulique 100pg/ml 138* - *: résultat significatif Results Treatment Concentration Transglutaminase Filaggrin TGK% control 100 100 CaCl2 1.5 mM 192 373 Retinoic acid 10-7 M 31 1030 Ferulic acid 10pg / ml 126 * 234 * Ferulic acid 100 μg / ml 138 * - *: significant result
Le traitement par le chlorure de calcium a nettement augmenté l'expression des marqueurs de différenciation étudiés : cet effet pro-différenciant était attendu et valide l'essai. Le traitement par l'acide rétinoïque a nettement diminué l'expression des marqueurs de différenciation étudiés : cet effet anti-différenciant était attendu et valide l'essai. Treatment with calcium chloride markedly increased the expression of the differentiation markers studied: this pro-differentiating effect was expected and validates the test. Treatment with retinoic acid markedly decreased the expression of the differentiation markers studied: this anti-differentiating effect was expected and validates the test.
Le traitement par l'acide férulique à 10pg/ml et 100pg/ml augmente l'expression de la TGK ; et à 10pg/ml , il a nettement stimulé l'expression de la filaggrine. Treatment with ferulic acid at 10 μg / ml and 100 μg / ml increases the expression of TGK; and at 10 μg / ml, it definitely stimulated the expression of filaggrin.
Ces résultats montrent que l'acide férulique stimule la différenciation des kératinocytes. Cet effet bénéfique sur les kératinocytes est mis à profit dans l'invention pour améliorer l'aspect (homogénéité, éclat, transparence) et/ou la texture (souplesse, hydratation, d'une peau fragilisée et/ou altérée notamment par un traitement chimique et/ou mécanique et/ou physique. These results show that ferulic acid stimulates the differentiation of keratinocytes. This beneficial effect on keratinocytes is exploited in the invention to improve the appearance (homogeneity, brightness, transparency) and / or texture (flexibility, hydration, of a weakened skin and / or impaired in particular by a chemical treatment and / or mechanical and / or physical.
Exemple 2 : Exemples de compositions et kit Les compositions décrites ci-dessous sont préparées selon les méthodes classiques de préparations cosmétiques. Sauf indication contraire, les pourcentages (%) sont exprimés en pois de matière première par rapport au poids total de ladite composition. 25 Example 2: Examples of compositions and kit The compositions described below are prepared according to the conventional methods of cosmetic preparations. Unless otherwise indicated, the percentages (%) are expressed in peas of raw material relative to the total weight of said composition. 25
Serum à l'acide férulique Acide férulique 1 Phenoxy-2 ethanol 1 30 Alcool éthylique dénaturé 10 Eau gsp100 Propylène glycol 10 1,2-pentanediol 20 Conservateur qs 5 10 15 Parfum qs Ce sérum est appliqué quotidiennement sur une peau, en complément d'un traitement anti-acnéique. Ferulic acid serum Ferulic acid 1 Phenoxy-2 ethanol 1 Denatured ethyl alcohol 10 Water gsp100 Propylene glycol 1,2 1,2-pentanediol Preservative qs 5 10 Perfume qs This serum is applied daily to a skin, in addition to anti-acne treatment.
Serum hydratant à l'acide férulique Acide férulique C-13-D-xylopyranoside-n-propane-2-one Phenoxy-2 ethanol Alcool éthylique dénaturé Eau Propylène glycol 1,2-pentanediol Conservateur Parfum Ce sérum est nettoyage et/ou de peeling. 1 10 1 10 qsp 100 10 20 qs qs appliqué quotidiennement sur le visage, en complément d'un traitement de 20 25 30 35 0.5 2.5 2.5 1 1 qsp 100 15 0.3 0.3 qs qs quotidiennement - Emulsion à l'acide férulique Ethyl ferulate Mono /distearate de glyceryl Stearate de PEG Alcool cetylique Alcool stearylique Isoparaffine hydrogénée Eau Cyclopenta dimethylsiloxane Polymère carboxyvinylique Triethanolamine Conservateur Parfum Cette émulsion est appliquée traitement par photothérapie (LED). - Serum acide férulique et vitamine Csur une peau, en complément d'un Acide férulique 1 Vitamine C 5 Alcool éthylique dénaturé 10 Eau gsp100 Propylène glycol 10 1,2-pentanediol 20 Conservateur qs Parfum qs Ce sérum est appliqué quotidiennement, en complément d'un traitement desquamant. 10 Ferulic acid hydrating serum Ferulic acid C-13-D-xylopyranoside-n-propan-2-one Phenoxy-2 ethanol Denatured ethyl alcohol Water Propylene glycol 1,2-pentanediol Preservative Perfume This serum is cleansing and / or peeling . 1 10 1 10 qs 100 10 20 qs qs applied daily to the face, in addition to a treatment of 20 25 30 35 0.5 2.5 2.5 1 1 qs 100 15 0.3 0.3 qs qs daily - Ferulic acid emulsion Ethyl ferulate Mono / glyceryl distearate PEG Stearate Cetyl Alcohol Stearyl Alcohol Hydrogenated Isoparaffin Water Cyclopenta Dimethylsiloxane Carboxyvinyl Polymer Triethanolamine Preservative Perfume This emulsion is applied phototherapy therapy (LED). Serum ferulic acid and vitamin C on a skin, in addition to a ferulic acid 1 Vitamin C 5 Denatured ethyl alcohol 10 Water gsp100 Propylene glycol 10 1,2-pentanediol Preservative qs Perfume qs This serum is applied daily, in addition to an desquamating treatment. 10
- Emulsion solaire Mélange mono/distéarate de Glycéryle/stéarate de polyethylène 15 Glycol (100 0E) 1 Acide stéarique 1 Iso-hexadécane 2 Benzoate d'alcools C12/C15 3 Cyclopentasiloxane 5 20 Octocrylène 3 TiO2 1 Copolymère d'acide acrylique/ Méthacrylate de stéaryle 0,25 Xanthane 0,1 25 Copolymère vinylpyrrolidone Eicosène 1 Polydiméthylsiloxane 0,5 Vitamine E 0,1 Cire de polyméthylène 30 Cirebelle 303 1 Terephtalydène Dicamphor Sulfonic Acid (Mexoryl SX) 1,5 Glycérol 6 Propylène glycol 6 35 Triéthanolamine 0,71 Phosphate de mono-cetyle Mono-potassique 1 28 Eau qsp 100 Conservateur qs Chélatant 0,1 Parfum qs Acide férulique 0,5 solaire est appliquée sur une peau fragilisée et/ou altérée par un rasage, et de préférence avant et/ou pendant une exposition solaire. Kit de peelinq Composition de peeling 10 Urée Acide glycolique 0.5 HEPES 10 Glycérol 8.5 Polyethylène glycol (6OE) 44 Hydroxyéthylcellulose 1 Alcool éthylique dénaturé 3 Conservateurs 1 Eau qsp 100 Soin post-peeling 1 Acide férulique Extrait de centella asiatica 0.5 Glycérol 10 Propylène glycol 10 1,2-pentanediol 20 Conservateur qs Parfum qs Eau qsp 100 La composition de peeling est appliquée sur la peau du visage, généralement 1 à 2 fois par semaine ; elle est laissée au contact de la peau de 3 à 10 minutes avant d'être 35 rincée. Le soin à l'acide férulique est appliquée sur la peau traitée par la composition de peeling, après avoir été rincée et séchée. Ce soin est avantageusement utilisé quotidiennement. - Solar emulsion Mono / Glyceryl distearate / Polyethylene stearate 15 Glycol (100 0E) 1 Stearic acid 1 Iso-hexadecane 2 C12 / C15 alcohol benzoate 3 Cyclopentasiloxane 5 20 Octocrylene 3 TiO2 1 Copolymer of acrylic acid / Methacrylate stearyl 0.25 xanthane 0.1 Copolymer vinylpyrrolidone Eicosene 1 Polydimethylsiloxane 0.5 Vitamin E 0.1 Polymethylene wax 30 Cirebelle 303 1 Terephthalene Dicamphor Sulfonic Acid (Mexoryl SX) 1.5 Glycerol 6 Propylene glycol 6 35 Triethanolamine 0.71 Mono-potassium potassium mono-ceyl phosphate 1 28 Water qs 100 Preservative qs Chelating 0,1 Perfume qs Ferulic acid 0,5 solar is applied to skin weakened and / or altered by shaving, and preferably before and / or during solar exposure. Peeling kit Peeling composition 10 Urea Glycolic acid 0.5 HEPES 10 Glycerol 8.5 Polyethylene glycol (6OE) 44 Hydroxyethylcellulose 1 Denatured ethyl alcohol 3 Preservatives 1 Water qs 100 Post-peel care 1 Ferulic acid Centella asiatica extract 0.5 Glycerol 10 Propylene glycol 10 1 , 2-pentanediol 20 Preservative qs Perfume qs Water qs 100 The peeling composition is applied to the skin of the face, generally 1 to 2 times a week; it is left in contact with the skin for 3 to 10 minutes before being rinsed. The ferulic acid treatment is applied to the skin treated with the peeling composition, after having been rinsed and dried. This treatment is advantageously used daily.
Cette composition10 This composition10
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WO2010033494A3 (en) * | 2008-09-16 | 2010-08-12 | Tria Beauty, Inc. | Compositions, methods, devices, and systems for skin care |
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US10342617B2 (en) | 2003-02-25 | 2019-07-09 | Channel Investments, Llc | Phototherapy device thermal control apparatus and method |
US8777935B2 (en) | 2004-02-25 | 2014-07-15 | Tria Beauty, Inc. | Optical sensor and method for identifying the presence of skin |
US9687671B2 (en) | 2008-04-25 | 2017-06-27 | Channel Investments, Llc | Optical sensor and method for identifying the presence of skin and the pigmentation of skin |
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RU2482856C2 (en) * | 2011-08-05 | 2013-05-27 | Общество С Ограниченной Ответственностью "Оксигон" | Complex compound of zinc 2-chloropropionate and 2-chloropropionic acid, pharmaceutical composition for treating skin diseases, method for preparing it and method for treating skin, nail and visible mucosal disorders |
FR2983717A1 (en) * | 2011-12-12 | 2013-06-14 | Oreal | Oil-in-water emulsion used for making up keratin materials, preferably hair, comprises continuous aqueous phase, discontinuous oil phase, photoprotective system, lipophilic ethylene polymer, silica particles and nonionic surfactant mixture |
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WO2020099664A1 (en) * | 2018-11-15 | 2020-05-22 | L'oreal | Composition comprising a cinnamic acid derivative and a nonassociative nonionic cellulose-based polymer |
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CN114466638A (en) * | 2019-09-27 | 2022-05-10 | 莱雅公司 | Two-part composition for caring for keratin materials |
CN114901247A (en) * | 2019-12-30 | 2022-08-12 | 莱雅公司 | Anhydrous composition for caring for keratin materials |
WO2022149055A1 (en) * | 2021-01-05 | 2022-07-14 | L'oreal | Organic uva filter-stabilized antioxidant composition |
US11547645B2 (en) | 2021-01-05 | 2023-01-10 | L'oreal | Organic UVA filter-stabilized antioxidant composition |
FR3121043A1 (en) * | 2021-03-29 | 2022-09-30 | L'oreal | ANTIOXIDANT COMPOSITION STABILIZED BY AN ORGANIC UVA FILTER |
WO2024049923A1 (en) * | 2022-08-31 | 2024-03-07 | L'oreal | Compositions and methods for skin |
FR3143355A1 (en) * | 2022-12-14 | 2024-06-21 | L'oreal | Compositions and methods for preventing and/or treating scars |
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