FR3047178A1 - USE OF PROBIOTIC MICROORGANISMS AS AN AGENT PROMOTING MELANIN SYNTHESIS - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention relates to the use, topically, of Bifidobacterium longum, as a pro-pigmenting agent, especially in the prevention and / or treatment of alterations in the homogeneity of the color of the skin and / or the hair.

Description

Use of probiotic microorganisms as an agent promoting the synthesis of melanin

The present invention relates to the cosmetic treatment, topically, by induction of pigmentation, alterations in the homogeneity of the color of the skin and / or the hair, resulting in particular from a regulatory imbalance of homeostasis. melanocytes.

The color of human hair and skin is a function of various factors, such as seasons of the year, ethnicity, gender, and age. It is mainly determined by the concentration and distribution in keratinocytes of melanin produced by melanocytes.

Melanocytes are the specialized cells that synthesize melanin and then distribute it to keratinocytes through particular organelles, melanosomes.

In the epidermis, the melanocyte is involved in the epidermal melanic unit, forming a distribution network between melanocytes and keratinocytes, which consists of a melanocyte surrounded by about 36 neighboring keratinocytes. Melanocytes account for approximately 5 to 10% of basal layer cells of the epidermis. All individuals, regardless of phototype, have approximately the same number of melanocytes for a given skin area. Differences in pigmentation between individuals are not due to the number of melanocytes, but to the nature of the synthesized melanin and the biochemical and functional properties of melanosomes.

Melanosomes are highly specialized organelles whose sole function is the synthesis and transfer of melanin. They arise from the endoplasmic reticulum in the form of spherical vacuoles called pre-melanosomes that contain an amorphous protein substrate, but no melanogenic enzymes. During the maturation of the pre-melanosome, the amorphous substrate is organized into a fibrillar structure oriented in the longitudinal axis of the melanosome. There are four stages of development of melanosome corresponding to the intensity of melanization. Melanin is uniformly deposited on the inner fibrillar network of the melanosome and the opacity of the organelle increases to saturation. As melanosomes are synthesized in melanosomes, they move from the perinuclear region to the end of the melanocyte dendrites. By phagocytosis, the end of the dendrites is captured by the keratinocytes, the membranes are degraded and the melanosome content of the melanosomes is redistributed in the keratinocytes. The melanin is thus distributed in the epidermis, ensuring its browning and protection.

In terms of hair and hair color, it is based on the presence in varying amounts and ratios of two groups of melanins: eumelanins (brown to black pigments) and pheo-melanins (red to yellow pigments). The pigmentation of hair and hair requires the presence of melanocytes in the bulb of the hair follicle. The hair follicle is a tubular invagination of the epidermis that penetrates to the deep layers of the dermis. The inner part of the bulb is a zone of cellular proliferation where the precursors of the keratinized cells constituting the hair are found. The melanocytes in the bulb of the hair follicle are in an active state, that is, they synthesize melanin. These pigments are transmitted to the keratinocytes intended to form the hair shaft, which will lead to the growth of a pigmented hair or hair.

The mechanisms leading to the pigmentation of the skin and keratinous fibers, especially hair and hair, are highly regulated mechanisms, under the influence of multiple hormonal or cellular factors. The homeostasis of melanocytes, finely regulated by these hormonal or cellular factors, makes it possible to confer on skin and keratin fibers a natural, homogeneous, more or less intense pigmentation, imparting an attractive aesthetic and cosmetic appearance.

However, in most populations, obtaining a brown color of the skin and maintaining a constant color of the hair are important aspirations. The maintenance of a tanned complexion and a naturally pigmented hair are factors strongly involved in obtaining an attractive cosmetic appearance.

There is therefore a real need for a product facilitating and / or improving the pigmentation of the skin and / or hair and / or hair, and used topically.

Numerous solutions have been proposed in the field of artificial coloring by adding exogenous dyes, such as DHA, which are supposed to give the skin and / or the hair and / or the hair the coloring as close as possible to what it is. is naturally or, in the field of natural staining, by stimulation of the natural pigmentation pathways, for example using active agents stimulating melanogenesis with or without UV action.

It has thus been proposed to use compositions containing a phosphodiesterase inhibitor (WO 95/17161), prostaglandins (WO 95/11003), DNA fragments (WO 95/01773), DNA encoding receptors of MSH (WO 94/04674), diacylglycerols (WO 94/04122), tyrosine derivatives (EP 0585018), ballot extracts (WO 93/10804), or xanthine extracts (WO 91/07945). These different compounds act, directly or indirectly via Ι'α-MSH or prostaglandins, so as to stimulate the biosynthesis of melanin, with or without UV action. Excellent results are certainly obtained by the solutions proposed in the state of the art, but the compounds used often have significant side effects or are complex mixtures that do not have specificity.

The discovery of alternative substances having an effect on the pigmentation of the skin and / or hair and / or hair therefore remains a major objective of the research.

In particular, there is still a need for alternative cosmetic active agents that can preferably be administered topically, which physiologically induce pigmentation.

There is still a need for alternative assets that promote melanogenesis.

There is still a need for alternative active ingredients to regulate the synthesis or accumulation of melanin in the epidermis.

There is still a need for alternative assets to increase melanin deposits in hair and / or hair.

There is still a need for alternative assets to facilitate and / or improve the pigmentation of the skin and / or hair and / or hair in the field of cosmetics.

There is still a need for alternative assets useful to prevent and / or limit and / or stop the development of canities, or even maintain the natural pigmentation of hair and / or gray or white hairs.

The present invention is intended to meet these needs.

Probiotic microorganisms, microorganisms that can have a positive effect on the health of the subject who ingests them, are widely used in the field of cosmetics.

Thus, application FR 2 756 181 describes the use of cosmetic compositions based on inactivated culture of bacteria of the Bifidobacterium type, mint oil and an acid to eliminate pigment spots.

The application EP 1 110 555 describes the use of a bacterial agent, for example an extract of Bifidobacterium bacteria, to stabilize and / or regenerate the skin ecosystem of mammals, and treat, inter alia, pityriasis versicolor.

Application FR 2 912 917 describes the use of a conditioned culture medium, obtained by contact with peripheral blood cells stimulated by probiotics, to treat signs of inflammation and / or immune disorders, such as inflammatory hyperpigmentations, vitiligo or canitia.

WO 2008/015343 describes the use of yeast extracts to increase melanin synthesis, and treat vitiligo and canitie.

The application WO 2007/073122 describes the use of a fermented rice bran with a lactic acid bacteria to whiten the skin by preventing the synthesis of melanin.

US 2002/0168388 discloses the use of compositions comprising inactivated bacteria and extracellular plant matrix extract to counter UV radiation-induced damage.

The application WO 02/28402 describes the use of compositions comprising probiotics for balancing the immune function of the skin after exposure to stress conditions.

The application FR 2 834 718 describes the use of active substances obtained by fermentation of vegetable seeds or fruits with Lactobacillus, Lactococcus or Leuconostoc bacteria to protect the skin from the harmful effects of UV rays and to regulate melanogenesis in the skin and skin. hair.

The application FR 2 920 307 describes the use of probiotics to treat the manifestations of discomfort and / or cutaneous signs associated with a surface skin treatment, among which the bleaching of the skin.

The application FR 2 920 306 describes the use of a Bifidobacterium lysate to prevent a decrease in and / or enhance the skin barrier function, and thus prevent and / or reduce skin irritations or signs of skin aging.

The application FR 2 920 300 describes the use of hesperidin in combination with a probiotic to enhance the barrier function of the skin and thus treat the cutaneous signs of aging. The use of probiotic Bifidobacterium as a pro-pigmenting agent, however, has not been suggested.

However, the inventors have surprisingly shown that Bifidobacterium longum bacteria significantly induce cutaneous or capillary pigmentation. In particular, this specific probiotic strain makes it possible to induce a greater pigmentation than other types of known probiotics such as strains of Propionibacterium freudenreichii or Bacillus coagulans.

The present invention thus relates to the non-therapeutic cosmetic use of at least one strain of probiotic microorganism Bifidobacterium longum as agent inducing cutaneous and / or capillary pigmentation, for homogenizing the color of the skin and / or the hair, in particular for to prevent and / or treat an alteration of the homogeneity of the color of the skin and / or the hair, said at least one strain of probiotic microorganism Bifidobacterium longum being administered topically and said at least one strain of Bifidobacterium longum not being not the strain Bifidobacterium longum subsp. longum filed on 29 January 2001 with the CNCM (Paris, France) under the number 1-2618.

Detailed description of the invention

Bifidobacterium longum

The bacterial strain Bifidobacterium longum used in the context of the present invention is a probiotic microorganism.

"Probiotic microorganism" means a live microorganism that, when administered in an adequate amount, has a positive effect on the health of its host ("Joint FAO / WHO Expert Consultation and Evaluation of Health and Nutritional Properties of Probiotics"). Food Including Powder Milk with Lact Acid Bacteria, October 6, 2001 ").

For the purposes of the present invention, the microorganism envisaged may be used live, or inactivated, unable to replicate. It is also possible to use a fraction of it or one of the components of this microorganism.

According to a variant of the invention, the probiotic microorganism Bifidobacterium longum used in the context of the invention may be used in an isolated or purified form, that is to say unmixed with one or more compound (s) likely to be associated with it in its environment of origin or in its environment of propagation.

According to a variant of the invention, the probiotic microorganism Bifidobacterium longum used in the context of the invention can be implemented in a living, semi-active, inactivated or dead form.

In particular, the probiotic microorganism Bifidobacterium longum used in the context of the invention can be used in a living or inactivated form.

According to an advantageous embodiment of the invention, the probiotic microorganism Bifidobacterium longum can be used in inactivated or dead form.

For the purposes of the invention, an "inactivated" microorganism is a microorganism that is no longer capable, temporarily or permanently, of forming colonies in culture.

For the purposes of the invention, a "dead" microorganism is a microorganism that is no longer capable, definitively, of forming colonies in culture.

Dead or inactivated microorganisms may have intact or broken cell membranes. Thus, the term "inactivated" also refers to extracts and lysates of microorganisms as detailed below. Obtaining dead or inactivated microorganisms can be carried out by any method known to those skilled in the art.

According to an advantageous embodiment, the probiotic microorganisms Bifidobacterium longum used according to the invention are at least partly inactivated or dead.

"At least partially inactivated probiotic microorganisms Bifidobacterium longum" means a preparation of probiotic microorganisms Bifidobacterium longum according to the invention comprising at least 80%, in particular at least 85%, more particularly at least 90%, or at least 95%, at least 99%, or at least 99.99% of inactivated Bifidobacterium longum probiotic microorganisms expressed in colony forming units (cfu) relative to all of the non-inactivated live Bifidobacterium longum probiotic microorganisms contained in the initial preparation prior to be subjected to an inactivation process. The inactivation rate obtained depends on the conditions of application of the inactivation method which are adjusted by those skilled in the art according to the inactivation rate to be obtained. According to one embodiment, the invention comprises the implementation of a preparation comprising a maximum, preferably 100%, of inactivated Bifidobacterium longum probiotic microorganisms.

An inactivated Bifidobacterium longum probiotic microorganism suitable for the invention can be prepared by irradiation, heat treatment or lyophilization of a preparation of probiotic microorganisms Bifidobacterium longum. These methods are known to those skilled in the art. Other known techniques among which high pressure treatment or extrusion can also be envisaged by the skilled person.

In particular, the inactivation of probiotic microorganisms by irradiation may include the use of gamma rays, X-rays, or UV exposure. The type of radiation, the intensity, the dose and the exposure time are adjusted by those skilled in the art according to the quantity and the nature of the probiotic Bifidobacterium longum microorganisms to be inactivated. Thermal inactivation can be accomplished by incubating the probiotic Bifidobacterium longum microorganisms of the invention for a given period of time, for example from 10 s to 90 min at a temperature of 100 to 150 ° C. Depending on the microorganism to be inactivated, it is possible to envisage a longer treatment, for example 2 hours, at 170 ° C. Thermal inactivation can also be performed by autoclaving by subjecting the probiotic Bifidobacterium longum microorganisms of the invention to a temperature of 121 ° C, for at least 20 minutes and at an atmospheric pressure of 2 bar.

Alternatively, the thermal inactivation can be performed by subjecting the Bifidobacterium longum probiotic microorganisms to a freezing temperature, for a prolonged period of time, or to a series of freeze-thaw cycles. The inactivation by lyophilization can be carried out by any method known in the art. Advantageously, probiotic microorganisms Bifidobacterium longum inactivated by lyophilization can be returned to culture.

Preferably, a probiotic microorganism Bifidobacterium longum suitable for the invention is used in an inactivated form obtained by irradiation, in particular by gamma irradiation.

A probiotic microorganism Bifidobacterium longum according to the invention may be used in whole form, that is to say substantially in its native form, or in the form of extracts or lysates comprising fractions and / or metabolites of this microorganism.

For the purposes of the invention, the term "fraction" refers to a fragment or component of said microorganism having an induction efficiency of melanin synthesis by analogy with said whole microorganism.

For the purposes of the invention, the term "metabolite" refers to any substance derived from the metabolism of microorganisms, and in particular secreted by the microorganisms Bifidobacterium longum considered according to the invention and also having an induction efficiency of melanin synthesis.

For the purposes of the invention, the term "extract" means a preparation containing inactivated microorganisms whose cell structure has not been destroyed or dissolved. Biological cells are generally not fragmented.

An extract or a lysate suitable for the invention may be prepared from Bifidobacterium longum bacteria at the end of the growth phase.

According to one embodiment, a probiotic microorganism Bifidobacterium longum suitable for the invention may be prepared in the form of a lysate.

A lysate in the sense of the invention commonly refers to a material obtained at the end of the destruction or dissolution of biological cells by a so-called cell lysis phenomenon thus causing the release of the intracellular biological constituents naturally contained in the cells of the microorganism under consideration and of fragments of cell membrane components. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "lysate" is used interchangeably to designate the entirety of the lysate obtained by inactivation of the microorganism concerned or only a fraction thereof. The lysate used is therefore formed in all or part of the intracellular biological constituents and constituents of the cell walls and membranes of the probiotic microorganism Bifidobacterium longum of interest.

It is advantageous to use in the context of the invention: an extract containing inactivated microorganisms of the relevant microorganism strain, or a lysate obtained by lysis or inactivation of the microorganism concerned.

This cellular inactivation for obtaining an extract or a lysate can be accomplished by various technologies, such as, for example, osmotic shock, thermal shock, ultrasound, or else under mechanical stress of centrifugation type, or combinations of these different technologies.

More particularly, this lysate can be obtained according to the technology described in US Pat. No. 4,464,362, and in particular according to the following protocol.

A probiotic microorganism considered is cultured anaerobically in a suitable culture medium, for example according to the conditions described in US 4,464,362 and EP 0 043 128. When the stationary phase of development is reached, the culture medium can be inactivated by pasteurization, for example at a temperature of 60 to 65 ° C for 30 minutes. The microorganisms may be collected by a conventional separation technique, for example membrane filtration, centrifuged and resuspended in a sterile solution of NaCl at a physiological concentration. In the case of a lysate, it can then be obtained by ultrasonic disintegration of such a medium in order to release the cytoplasmic fractions, the cell wall fragments and certain products resulting from the metabolism of these microorganisms. Then all components in their natural distribution can be stabilized in a weakly acidic aqueous solution.

It is thus possible to obtain a lysate having a concentration of about 0.1 to 50%, in particular from 1 to 20% and in particular about 5% by weight of active material (s) relative to its total weight. .

According to a possible alternative to the technology described above, the centrifugation can be applied at the end of fermentation (at the beginning of the stationary phase) before the heat treatment.

It is also possible to recover the microorganisms and the supernatant and subsequently carry out the heat treatment, the assembly can then be dried. The extract or lysate may be used in a variety of forms, such as a solution or in a powder form, preferably in the form of a solution. Storage in liquid form may require the application of a stabilizing treatment such as ultra-high temperature (UHT) treatment. Any method of stabilizing liquids known to those skilled in the art can be considered for the solution or suspension of Bifidobacterium longum.

The lysate of Bifidobacterium longum used in the context of the invention may advantageously be the lysate registered under the name INCI: Bifidat ferment Lysate, under the name EINECS: Bifidobacterium longum, under the EINECS No.: No. 306-168-4 and under the CAS N °: 96507-89-0.

The product sold under the name Repair Complex CLR® by the company K. Richter GmbH and which is formed from an inactivated lysate of the species Bifidobacterium longum is particularly suitable for the implementation of the invention.

The probiotic microorganisms Bifidobacterium longum include subspecies Bifidobacterium longum subsp. infantis, Bifidobacterium longum subsp. longum, and Bifidobacterium longum subsp. am.

Examples of suitable Bifidobacterium longum strains include Bifidobacterium longum subsp. longum BOR1, Bifidobacterium longum subsp. longum DJ010A, Bifidobacterium longum subsp. longum JDM301, Bifidobacterium longum subsp. longum M58739, Bifidobacterium longum subsp. infantis 157F-NC, Bifidobacterium longum subsp. Infantis ATCC 15697, Bifidobacterium longum subsp. Infantis ATCC 55813, Bifidobacterium longum subsp. Infantis CCUG 52486, Bifidobacterium longum subsp. infantis JCM1217, Bifidobacterium longum subsp. infantis JCM1222, Bifidobacterium longum ATCC BAA-999, Bifidobacterium longum FERM BP-7787, Bifidobacterium longum ATCC 15707, Bifidobacterium longum ATCC 15708, Bifidobacterium longum ATCC 55817, Bifidobacterium longum FERM P-6548,

Bifidobacterium longum CNCM 1-1228, the Bifidobacterium longum strain deposited according to the Budapest Treaty at the National Collection of Cultures of Microorganisms (CNCM, Pasteur Institute, 28 rue du Dr Roux, 75724 Paris Cedex 15, France) under number CNCM 1 -2170, and the strain Bifidobacterium longum BB536.

Preferably, the strain of Bifidobacterium longum used in the context of the invention is not the strain Bifidobacterium longum subsp. longum filed on 29 January 2001 with the CNCM (Paris, France) under the number 1-2618.

Preferably, the strain of Bifidobacterium longum used in the context of the invention is the strain Bifidobacterium longum BB536.

A probiotic microorganism Bifidobacterium longum used in the context of the invention may be formulated in a composition at a rate of at least 0.0001% expressed by dry weight, in particular at a rate of 0.0001 to 20% and more particularly at a rate of from 0.001 to 15%, in particular from 0.01 to 10%, and especially from 0.1 to 2% relative to the total dry weight of the composition containing it.

A probiotic microorganism Bifidobacterium longum used in the context of the invention may in particular be formulated in a composition intended to be administered orally or topically. In general, a composition for topical application according to the invention may generally comprise from 10 3 to 10 12 cfu / g, in particular from 105 to 101 ° cfu / g and more particularly from 107 to 109 cfu / g of Bifidobacterium microorganisms. live longum per gram of support or equivalent doses calculated for inactivated or dead Bifidobacterium longum microorganisms or for Bifidobacterium longum microorganism fractions or for metabolites produced.

It may be advantageous to use Bifidobacterium longum microorganisms in inactivated or even dead form, in particular in the form of a lysate or a cell extract, typically containing cell fragments and metabolites.

A Bifidobacterium longum microorganism may also be included in a composition as fractions of cellular components or as metabolites, particularly as an extract or as a lysate. The microorganism (s) Bifidobacterium longum, metabolite (s) or fraction (s) can also be introduced in the form of a freeze-dried powder, a culture supernatant and / or or where appropriate in a concentrated form.

When a composition comprises metabolites, the content of metabolites in the compositions substantially correspond to the levels that can be produced by the equivalent of 103 to 1015 cfu, in particular 105 to 1015 cfu, and more particularly 107 to 1012 cfu of microorganisms. Live Bifidobacterium longum per gram of support. The expression of the amount of metabolites or fractions of an "ufc" microorganism, or of dead microorganisms, is intended to designate the quantity of this microorganism necessary for the production of said quantity of metabolites or fractions of microorganisms.

Cosmetic composition

In a particular embodiment of the invention, said at least one strain of Bifidobacterium longum, as defined in the section "Bifidobacterium longum" above, is formulated in a cosmetic composition further comprising a cosmetically acceptable vehicle.

By "cosmetically acceptable vehicle" is meant here a medium without odor or unpleasant appearance, and which does not generate tingling, tugging or redness unacceptable to the user, during administration, particularly when applied topically to the skin or its annexes.

The cosmetically acceptable vehicle will be adapted to the topical route of administration of the composition, in particular to the nature of the support to which the composition is to be applied, as well as to the form in which the composition is intended to be packaged, in particular solid or fluid at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure.

The cosmetic composition used in the context of the invention may be in any of the galenical forms normally used for the mode of administration by the topical route.

A composition intended for topical administration can be an aqueous, hydroalcoholic or oily solution, a solution or dispersion of the lotion or serum type, a liquid or semi-liquid consistency emulsion of the milk type, obtained by dispersion of a fatty phase. in an aqueous phase (O / W) or conversely (W / O), a suspension or an emulsion, of soft, semi-solid or solid consistency, of the cream type or of the aqueous or anhydrous gel type, a multiple emulsion (E / H / E or H / E / H), a microemulsion, a nanoemulsion, a microcapsule preparation, a microparticle preparation, or an ionic and / or nonionic type vesicular dispersion, or a wax / aqueous phase dispersion.

It can also be in the form of a transdermal system allowing active or passive release of the active (s) by transdermy, for example patch or patch gel (hydrogel), or by injection.

These compositions are prepared according to the usual methods.

A cosmetic composition used in the context of the invention may constitute a composition for treating or caring for the skin or the scalp, keratinous fibers such as the hair, the eyelashes or the eyebrows, or a sun protection or tanning composition. artificial, or a cleanser or makeup remover of the skin, hair, eyebrows or eyelashes, a deodorant product or a perfume compound. Preferably, the cosmetic composition used in the context of the invention is a sun protection or artificial tanning composition.

Such a composition may then be unstained or weakly colored, and may optionally contain additional cosmetic active agents, in particular as indicated below. It can then be used as a skin or lip care base, for example in the form of a lip balm, protecting the lips from cold and / or sun and / or wind, as a day care cream. or at night for the skin of the face and / or the body.

It may also be in the form of shampoo treatment or not, dye or not, or conditioner.

A cosmetic composition used in the context of the invention may also constitute a colored cosmetic composition and in particular a makeup composition for the skin, keratinous fibers, in particular the hair or the eyelashes, and / or mucous membranes, in particular such a composition. may be a foundation, a blush, a blush, an eye shadow compound, a lipstick or a lip gloss, optionally with care or treatment properties. Preferably, it may be a colored makeup composition (beige or green) intended to correct the color of the complexion.

A composition administered topically may in particular constitute a cleaning cream, protection, treatment or care, a lotion, a gel or a mousse for the care of the skin or hair, such as a lotion for cleaning or disinfection, a composition for the bath or a deodorant composition.

A cosmetic composition used in the context of the invention may also consist of a solid preparation constituting a soap or a cleaning cake.

According to one embodiment of the invention, a cosmetic composition used in the context of the invention may be advantageously formulated to be administered on the scalp, the hair and the eyelashes, and in particular be prepared in the form of a solution. , a cream, a gel, an emulsion, a foam or in the form of an aerosol composition also containing a propellant under pressure.

According to one embodiment, a topical cosmetic composition used in the context of the invention may advantageously be formulated in any pharmaceutical form suitable for hair care, in particular in the form of a hair care lotion, for example a daily application. or bi-weekly, a shampoo, especially anti-dandruff, a conditioner, especially for weekly or bi-weekly application, a detangler, a cream or a hair gel, a treatment lotion, a dyeing composition (in particular oxidation) optionally in the form of a coloring shampoo, a restructuring lotion for hair, a permanent composition, a lotion or an anti-fall gel, an antiparasitic shampoo, or a shampoo treating, especially anti-seborrhoeic, a scalp care product including anti-irritant, anti-aging, restructuring, or activator of the blood circulation, a liquid soap or solid daily scalp cleansing, a shaping product of the hairstyle, such as a lacquer, a setting product or styling gel, a mask treatment, a cream or a foaming gel for cleaning the hair, or a hair mascara to be applied by brush or comb.

According to one embodiment, for an application on the eyelashes or the bristles, a cosmetic composition used in the context of the invention may be in the form of a mascara, pigmented or not, to be applied to the brush on the eyelashes or still on the hair of beard or mustache.

According to one particular embodiment, a cosmetic composition used in the context of the invention may be in the form of a hair cream or a hair lotion, a shampoo or a hair conditioner, a hair conditioner or a hair conditioner. hair mascara or eyelashes.

When a cosmetic composition used in the context of the invention is an emulsion, the proportion of the fatty phase may range from 5 to 80% by weight, and preferably from 10 to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The oils, emulsifiers and coemulsifiers used in the emulsion composition are chosen from those conventionally used in the cosmetics field. The emulsifier and the coemulsifier may be present in the cosmetic composition in a proportion ranging from 0.3 to 30% by weight, and preferably from 0.5 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

When the cosmetic composition used in the context of the invention is an oily solution or gel, the fatty phase may represent more than 90% of the total weight of the composition.

In a known manner, the dosage forms dedicated to topical administration may also contain adjuvants customary in the cosmetic field, such as hydrophilic or lipophilic gelling agents, hydrophilic or lipophilic active agents, preservatives, antioxidants, solvents, perfumes, fillers, filters, odor absorbers and dyestuffs. The amounts of these various adjuvants are those conventionally used in the cosmetics field, and for example from 0.01% to 20% of the total weight of the composition.

These adjuvants, depending on their nature, can be introduced into the fatty phase and / or into the aqueous phase.

As fats that may be used in the cosmetic compositions used in the context of the invention, mention may be made of mineral oils such as, for example, hydrogenated polyisobutene and petrolatum oil, vegetable oils such as, for example, a liquid fraction of shea butter, sunflower oil and apricot kernels, animal oils such as perhydrosqualene, synthetic oils including Purcellin oil, isopropyl myristate and ethyl hexyl palmitate; unsaturated fats and fluorinated oils such as perfluoropolyethers. It is also possible to use fatty alcohols, fatty acids such as, for example, stearic acid and, for example, waxes such as paraffin wax, carnauba wax and beeswax. It is also possible to use silicone compounds such as silicone oils and, for example, cyclomethicone and dimethicone, waxes, resins and silicone gums.

As emulsifiers that can be used in the cosmetic compositions used in the context of the invention, mention may be made, for example, of glycerol stearate, polysorbate 60, cetylstearyl alcohol / cetylstearyl alcohol mixture oxyethylenated with 33 moles of ethylene oxide. under the name Sinnowax AO® by HENKEL, the PEG-6 / PEG-32 / glycol stearate mixture sold under the name Tefose® 63 by Gattefosse, PPG-3 myristyl ether, silicone emulsifiers such as cetyldimethicone copolyol and sorbitan mono- or tristearate, PEG-40 stearate, oxyethylenated sorbitan monostearate (20OE).

As solvents that may be used in the cosmetic compositions used in the context of the invention, mention may be made of lower alcohols, in particular ethanol and isopropanol, and propylene glycol.

The cosmetic composition used in the context of the invention may also advantageously contain a thermal and / or mineral water, in particular chosen from Vittel water, the waters of the Vichy basin and the Roche Posay water.

As hydrophilic gelling agents, mention may be made of carboxylic polymers such as carbomer, acrylic copolymers such as copolymers of acrylates / alkyl acrylates, polyacrylamides and in particular the mixture of polyacrylamide, C13-14 Isoparaffin and Laureth-7 sold under the name of Sepigel 305® by the company SEPPIC, polysaccharides such as cellulose derivatives such as hydroxyalkylcelluloses and in particular hydroxypropylcellulose and hydroxyethylcellulose, natural gums such as guar, carob and xanthan and clays.

As lipophilic gelling agents, mention may be made of modified clays such as bentones, metal salts of fatty acids such as aluminum stearates and hydrophobic silica, or else ethylcellulose and polyethylene.

In a particularly preferred embodiment of the invention, the cosmetic composition as defined above further comprises an additional cosmetic active.

Advantageously, such additional asset may be intended to exert a cosmetic effect, care or hygiene on the skin, hair, eyelashes, hair and / or scalp.

The additional active agents are chosen by those skilled in the art so that they do not interfere with the effect of the probiotic Bifidobacterium longum microorganisms of the invention.

According to one variant embodiment, a probiotic Bifidobacterium longum microorganism, as defined above in the "Bifidobacterium longum" section, may advantageously be used with, as additional active ingredient, a non-probiotic microorganism, in particular the strain Vitreoscilla filiformis.

Such a non-probiotic microorganism can be implemented in living, semi-active, inactivated or dead form, in particular as defined in the "Bifidobacterium longum" section above. In particular, a microorganism of the Vitreoscilla filiformis type, as described in particular in the patent application FR 0 625 782, may be used in a living form or in a fractionated or complete lysate form with its culture medium after evaporation. concentration of the composition in H20.

The cosmetic composition used in the context of the invention may further comprise all the usual cosmetic additives such as water, solvents, oils, waxes, pigments, fillers, surfactants, cosmetic active agents, UV filters, polymers, gelling agents, preservatives and perfumes. Of course, a person skilled in the art will take care to choose this or these optional additional compounds, and / or their quantity, in such a way that the advantageous properties of the active constituents of the composition according to the invention are not, or not substantially, impaired. by the addition envisaged. Preferably, the cosmetic composition used in the context of the invention further comprises UV filters.

Non-therapeutic cosmetic use

Surprisingly, the inventors have observed that the application of Bifidobacterium longum probiotic microorganisms regulates the homeostasis of melanocytes, by promoting the synthesis of melanin, more effectively than other probiotic microorganisms such as Propionibacterium freudenreichii or Bacillus coagulans. . Thus the natural pigmentation of the skin, hair and hair are strengthened. The cutaneous or capillary pigmentation thus obtained is advantageously homogeneous.

The present invention relates more particularly to the non-therapeutic cosmetic use of a strain of Bifidobacterium longum, as defined in the section "Bifidobacterium longum" above, optionally formulated in a cosmetic composition as defined in the section "Cosmetic composition "above, as agent inducing cutaneous and / or capillary pigmentation, for physiologically inducing pigmentation and thus in particular preventing and / or treating an alteration of the homogeneity of the color of the skin and / or the hair, said strain of Bifidobacterium longum being administered topically.

The cosmetic composition used in the context of the invention can in particular be used in healthy subjects, typically subjects that do not have any alterations in the homogeneity of the skin color and / or the hair of origin. pathological.

It can, especially in healthy subjects, be used as a tanning agent, advantageously as a tanning agent independent of sunlight and / or UV rays, or to accelerate and / or intensify the tan.

It can also, especially in these healthy subjects, be used to make the complexion and / or the color of the complexion more homogeneous.

The cosmetic composition used in the context of the invention may also be used to prevent and / or cosmetically treat a cutaneous and / or capillary pigmentation defect resulting from an imbalance in melanocyte homeostasis.

The imbalance of melanocyte homeostasis may be an imbalance in proliferation and / or maturation and / or survival of melanocytes.

Proliferation, maturation and survival concern the different life stages of a cell in a tissue of an organism, ie its division from a stem cell or a mother cell, its differentiation allowing it to acquisition of characters specific to the tissue in which it fits, such as the expression of the different enzymes and proteins necessary for melanogenesis, and its maintenance until its senescence and apoptosis. Dysregulation of these steps may result in an imbalance in the distribution of melanocytes in the epidermis or in the follicle, or an imbalance in melanogenesis affecting, for example, the natural color of the epidermis, hair or hair.

In a particular embodiment, the pigmentation defects concerned by the invention result from an imbalance of melanogenesis.

The imbalance of melanocyte homeostasis resulting in the pigmentation defects concerned by the invention can also be associated with skin aging or scalp, and in particular be aggravated by this aging.

The pigmentation disorders concerned by the invention may relate to the epidermis, the scalp, the hair, the hairs or the eyelashes. By way of cosmetic hair pigmentation defects referred to by the invention, mention may in particular be made of canities.

Canitia is a natural hair whitening that occurs with age, and is primarily associated with a decrease in melanin in the hair shaft. More specifically, canities are linked to a specific and progressive rarefaction of hair melanocytes, affecting both the hair bulb melanocytes and the melanocyte precursor cells. Advantageously, the implementation of the invention makes it possible to reduce or even to slow down or delay the appearance of the white hair and the graying of the hair. Advantageously, the present invention makes it possible to stimulate, or even reactivate, melanogenesis, in order to delay, reduce or even reduce canities.

The composition used in the context of the invention may also be used in subjects having alterations in the homogeneity of the color of the skin and / or the hair, in particular subjects with skin pigmentation defects and / or or cosmetic capillary related to an accumulation, in particular heterogeneous melanin, to homogenize the color of the skin and / or hair.

Such cutaneous and / or capillary pigmentation defects related to a heterogeneous accumulation of melanin include melasma, acne pigment sequelae, post-inflammatory pigmentation, depigmentations due to burns or surgery, and benign facial dyschromias.

In these applications, the compositions used in the context of the invention make it possible to reduce the observed dyschromias and to homogenize the color of the skin, in particular by increasing or improving the pigmentation of the skin around the hyperpigmented areas and / or by increasing or improving the pigmentation of the skin in hypopigmented areas.

Preferably, the alteration of the homogeneity of the skin and / or hair targeted by the present invention is selected from the group consisting of canities, melasma, acne pigment sequelae, post-inflammatory pigmentation, depigmentation due to burns or surgery and benign facial dyschromias.

The present invention also relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic treatment method for physiologically inducing the pigmentation of the skin and / or the hair, and thus to homogenize the color of the skin and / or the hair, and in particular to prevent and / or treat a alteration of the homogeneity of skin and / or hair color, in which a cosmetically effective amount of a strain of Bifidobacterium longum as defined in the section "Bifidobacterium longum" is administered topically to a subject; above, optionally formulated in a cosmetic composition as defined in the section "Cosmetic composition" above.

By "cosmetically effective amount" is meant here a sufficient amount of agents used in the context of the invention to treat and / or prevent said cosmetic disorder, which does not generate unacceptable side effects for the user.

This strain of Bifidobacterium longum, optionally formulated in a cosmetic composition, is administered topically.

Advantageously, the application of the cosmetic composition is for example in the form of a mask, on the skin, the scalp or the hair.

The strain of Bifidobacterium longum, optionally formulated in a cosmetic composition, used in the context of the invention may in particular be applied to the face or the body.

In the following description and examples, unless otherwise indicated, percentages are percentages by weight and ranges of values in the form "between ... and ..." include the specified lower and upper bounds.

The ingredients are mixed before being shaped in the order and under conditions easily determined by those skilled in the art.

The content and the nature of the ingredients used in the compositions of the invention are adjusted by those skilled in the art so as not to substantially affect the properties required for the compositions of the invention.

The following examples are presented by way of illustration and not limitation of the field of the invention.

Brief description of the figure

The Figure is a set of histograms showing the melanin level, in percent relative to the control, quantified in co-cultures of primary keratinocytes (NHEK) and primary melanocytes (NHEM) incubated for 72 h with culture medium alone ( control), from ΓΙΒΜΧ to 200 μΜ (IBMX) as a positive control, a lysate of Bifidobacterium longum (B. longum CLR 1%), a lysate of Propionibacterium freudenreichii (P. freundenreichii 0.2%) and a lysate of Bacillus coagulans ( B. coagulants 0.2 mg / ml).

Examples

Example 1 Induction of melanin synthesis by Bifidobacterium longum

This example demonstrates the pro-pigmenting activity of the probiotic microorganism Bifidobacterium longum.

Material and methods

Primary human melanocytes (NHEM) were inoculated into 24-well plates in the presence (co-culture) of normal human epidermal keratinocytes (NHEK) and then cultured for 24 h. The cells were then treated with nothing (negative control), IBMX (positive control, 200 μl), Bifidobacterium longum extract (Repair Complex CLR® 1%), Propionibacterium freudenreichii extract (0.2%) or an extract. Bacillus coagulans (2 mg / ml).

After treatment, the cells were incubated for 72 h, all experimental conditions having been performed in triplicate. After 72 hours of incubation, the cells were lysed with a 0.5 N NaOH solution in order to extract the melanin. The optical density of the samples was measured at 405 nm, with reference to an exogenous melanin range (standard melanin curve 0.39 to 100 μg / ml).

The results are expressed as a percentage of relative stimulation compared with the control grown in standard co-culture medium. They were analyzed with the Student's statistical test: *: 0.01 <p <0.05 significant; **: 0.001 <p <0.01 very significant; ***: p <0.001 extremely significant Results

The inventors have thus shown that the incubation of NHEK / NHEM co-cultures with lysates of probiotic microorganisms made it possible to significantly increase melanin production by melanocytes compared with untreated cocultures (see FIG. .

They have also, surprisingly, shown that the specific use of lysates of strains of Bifidobacterium longum makes it possible to increase even more significantly the production of melanin compared to the use of lysates of other probiotics such as P freudenreichii or B. coagulans. Indeed, the incubation of NHEK / NHEM cocultures with CLR lanyards of B. longum induces an increase in melanin production of about 1.4 times compared to an untreated control, whereas the lysates of P. freudenreichii and B. coagulans only achieve an increase of about 1.1 times. It should be noted that the increase observed with B. longum is even greater than that obtained with the IBMX positive control.

Thus these results demonstrate that the probiotic microorganism B. longum can be used very effectively as a pro-pigmenting agent.

Example 2: Topical compositions according to the invention

This example describes compositions for topical use particularly suited to the implementation of the present invention.

Unless otherwise indicated, the values below are expressed as percentage by weight relative to the weight of the composition.

Example 2A: Face Lotion Lyophilized Powder of Bifidobacterium Longum 0.50 Magnesium Gluconate 3.00

Calcium lactate 2.00

0.05 Antioxidant

Isopropanol 40.0

Conservative 0.30

Water qs 100%

Example 2 B: Milk for facial care (sleep repairer)

Lyophilized powder of Bifidobacterium longum 1.00

Glycerol stearate 1.00

Cetylstearyl alcohol / cetylstearyl alcohol oxyethylenated at 30 mol EO (Sinnowax AO® sold by HENKEL) 3.00

Cetyl alcohol 1.00

Dimethicone (DC 200 Fluid® sold by Dow Corning) 1.00

Vaseline oil 6.00

Isopropyl myristate (Estol IMP 1514® sold by UNICHEMA) 3.00 Antioxidant 0.05

Glycerine 20,00

Conservative 0.30

Water qs 100%

EXAMPLE 2C Facial Care Gel (Store at 4 ° C) Bifidobacterium longum 1012 ufc

Hydroxypropylcellulose (Klucel H® sold by HERCULES) 1.00

Vitamin E 2.50

0.05 Antioxidant

Isopropanol 40.00

Conservative 0.30

Water qs 100%

Example 2D: Gel for facial care (to be stored at 4 ° C)

Aqueous lysate of Bifidobacterium longum 10.00

Hydroxypropylcellulose (Klucel H® sold by HERCULES) 1.00

Complete inactivated and evapoconcentrated culture (evapoconcentrat) of Vitreoscilla filiformis 2.00

Vitamin E 2.50

0.05 Antioxidant

Isopropanol 40.00

Conservative 0.30

Water qs 100%

Claims (7)

1. Non-therapeutic cosmetic use of at least one strain of probiotic microorganism Bifidobacterium longum as agent inducing cutaneous and / or capillary pigmentation, for homogenizing the color of the skin and / or the hair, said at least one strain of probiotic microorganism Bifidobacterium longum being administered topically and said at least one strain of Bifidobacterium longum not being the strain Bifidobacterium longum subsp. longum filed on 29 January 2001 with the CNCM (Paris, France) under the number 1-2618. 2. Cosmetic use according to claim 1, wherein said strain of Bifidobacterium longum is in the form of a lysate. 3. Cosmetic use according to claim 2, wherein said lysate is the lysate marketed under the name Repair Complex CLR® by K. Richter GmbH. 4. Cosmetic use according to any one of claims 1 to 3, for preventing and / or treating an alteration of the homogeneity of the color of the skin and / or hair. 5. Cosmetic use according to claim 4, wherein the alteration of the homogeneity of the color of the skin and / or hair is selected from the group consisting of canities, melasma, acne pigment sequelae, post-inflammatory pigmentation, depigmentation due to burns or surgery and benign facial dyschromias. 6. Cosmetic use according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein said strain of Bifidobacterium longum is formulated in a cosmetic composition further comprising a cosmetically acceptable vehicle. The cosmetic use of claim 6, wherein the cosmetic composition further comprises an additional cosmetic active.