WO2008078050A2

WO2008078050A2 - Use of at least one mono-unsaturated fatty acid for the treatment of fragile skin, mucous or semi-mucous tissues and scalp

Info

Publication number: WO2008078050A2
Application number: PCT/FR2007/052514
Authority: WO
Inventors: Audrey Gueniche; Isabelle Castiel
Original assignee: L'oreal; Nestec Sa
Priority date: 2006-12-14
Filing date: 2007-12-14
Publication date: 2008-07-03
Also published as: WO2008078050A3

Abstract

The present invention relates to the cosmetic use of at least one mono-unsaturated fatty acid, of one of the salts and/or esters thereof, preferably petroselinic acid, for the treatment of fragile, reactive, stressed and/or sensitised skins and scalps.

Description

The present invention relates to the use, in particular the cosmetic use, of petroselenic acid for the care of hides and skins. The present invention relates to the use of at least one monounsaturated fatty acid for the treatment of skins, mucous or semi-mucous membranes and fragile scalps. / or fragile scalp, reactive and / or stressed and / or sensitized.

Human skin consists of two compartments, namely a deep compartment, the dermis and a superficial compartment, the epidermis.

The epidermis is in contact with the external environment. One of its roles is to protect the body from dehydration and external aggression, particularly related to environmental factors like irritants or pollutants

(detergents, pollution, cigarette smoke ...), mechanical stresses (friction, abrasion, shaving, frequent washing ...), thermal or climatic imbalances (cold, wind, drought, UV radiation ...), xenobiotics (micro -organisms, allergens ...), cosmetic or dermatological chemical treatments (peeling, anti-acne treatment ...), or by physiological factors (age, stress ...).

It is composed mainly of three types of cells which are the keratinocytes, a very large majority, melanocytes and Langerhans cells, which are delimited by an intercellular lipid structure. This lipid structure and the cohesion of the epidermal cells contribute to the water exchanges of the skin and to the protective function or 'barrier function' of the skin, on the one hand with respect to water losses (insensible loss of water ) and on the other hand vis-à-vis external aggression.

The cohesion of the epidermal cells of the skin and / or the mucous or semi-mucous membranes can be altered notably by internal physiological factors such as age, stress, hormonal changes and / or by environmental factors such as thermal or thermal imbalances. climatic, xenobiotics, irritants, mechanical stresses such as friction, washing, shaving ....

The skin and / or the mucous or semi-mucous membranes then become fragile and become more prone to crevices and cracks, less resistant to mechanical friction and more permeable to the external environment and bacteria.

On the skin, the mucous membranes or semi-mucous membranes such as the lips, the appearance of microgures can result in less homogeneity makeup applied on them (ex: foundation, lipstick), which may not be aesthetic.

There is also a general disorganization of the cutaneous structure related to a decrease in cohesion between the cells, both in the epidermis and the dermis.

To protect the skin and / or semi-mucous membranes, a traditional solution consists in permanently providing external lipid agents (ex: fats, ceramides) and / or agents promoting the synthesis of epidermal lipids (eg vitamin

C and its derivatives) and / or emollient or moisturizing agents. But there is still the need to find new compositions to improve the cellular cohesion and / or strengthen the cohesion of the structure of the skin and / or scalp and / or mucous or semi-mucous membranes and thus treat the skin and / or the scalp and / or the weakened, sensitized, stressed and / or reactive mucous or semi-mucous membranes. Unexpectedly, the Applicant has found that monounsaturated fatty acids, especially petroselinic acid, could be effective for the treatment of sensitized, reactive, stressed and / or weakened skins and scalps, via this strengthening of the skin. cohesion of the cutaneous tissue of the skin, scalp and / or mucous or semi-mucous membranes. Monounsaturated fatty acids have been described for various applications such as the hydration of dry skin (EP 0 709 084 from L'Oreal).

EP 0 116 439 (Suntory) discloses that certain fatty acids have a strong 5α-reductase inhibitory activity of the bacterial flora of the scalp, and can therefore be used in toning products for the treatment of hair. The action of these fatty acids is therefore limited to the bacterial flora of the scalp.

No. 4,097,604 (Oxford HiIl) indicates that a salt of different fatty acids is active against the pathogens of the oral cavity, thus making it possible to reduce the incidence of these bacteria on the occurrence of periodontoses. The action of these fatty acids is therefore limited to the oral flora. EP 0 355 842 (Sansho Seiyaku) discloses a care cream for preventing pigmentation caused by an overproduction of melanin, said cream being able to contain petroselinic acid. EP 0 116 439 (Suntory) describes hair lotions comprising at least one fatty acid for the treatment of dandruff and itching of the scalp.

EP 1 013 178 (Unilever) describes the use of petroselinic acid as an anti-inflammatory agent and for treating the cutaneous signs of aging (wrinkles, flaccid skin, senescence spots).

WO 99/47110 discloses a cosmetic method for improving the appearance of skin using petroselinic acid.

US 6,022,890 discloses a composition comprising an alpha hydroxy acid, petroselinic acid and a cosmetically acceptable carrier. However, none of these documents foreshadowed the activity of monounsaturated fatty acids on the cohesion of the cutaneous tissue and the quality of its surface.

Thus, according to a first aspect, the present invention relates to the use, in particular the cosmetic use, of at least one monounsaturated fatty acid, of one of its salts and / or of one of its esters, for to reinforce the cohesion of the cutaneous tissue of the skin, the scalp and / or the mucous or semi-mucous membranes.

The invention relates in particular to the use, in particular the cosmetic use, of at least one monounsaturated fatty acid of one of its salts and / or of one of its esters in order to reinforce the cohesion of the cutaneous tissue of the skin, scalp and / or mucous or semi-mucous membranes via the restructuring of the collagen network, including the collagen network of the dermis.

According to a particular embodiment, the invention relates to the use, in particular the cosmetic use, of at least one monounsaturated fatty acid of one of its salts and / or one of its esters to reinforce the cohesion cutaneous tissue of the skin, scalp and / or mucous or semi-mucous membranes, in particular via the reorientation of the collagen fibers, in particular collagen fibers of the dermis.

It also relates to the use of at least one monounsaturated fatty acid and / or one of its acceptable salts and / or one of its esters for the preparation of a composition intended to reinforce the cohesion of the tissue cutaneous skin, scalp and / or mucous or semi-mucous membranes. It also relates to monounsaturated fatty acids for their use for the treatment and / or prevention of cutaneous pathologies related to a decrease in the reinforcement of the cohesion of the cutaneous tissue of the skin, the scalp and / or mucous or semi-mucous membranes, for example found in subjects with skins, scalp and / or mucous or semi-mucous sensitized, reactive, stressed and / or weakened.

According to another of its aspects, the present invention relates to a cosmetic process for the treatment of skin, and / or mucous or semi-mucous membranes and / or scalp that are embrittled, sensitized, stressed and / or reactive, including topical application or administration. orally of a composition comprising at least one monounsaturated fatty acid, a salt thereof and / or an ester thereof.

It is understood in the context of the presentation that when the cosmetic use object of the present invention is implemented by the oral route, said "oral cosmetic use" covers the use of products administered orally, these products , being for example in the form of food supplement or functional food, producing an effect on the skin, the scalp, the mucous membranes or semi-mucous membranes in terms of aesthetics and comfort, or for beauty purposes, for example for the purpose of protection, maintenance in good condition, modification of the appearance, and in particular of embellishment.

The Applicant has in fact been able to demonstrate that the monounsaturated fatty acids lead to: a restructuring of the collagen network, in particular visible by Trichorme Masson staining on a skin section of an individual having alterations of the dermal matrix, supplemented with coriander oil rich in monounsaturated fatty acids, in fact, this oil has as its activity the reduction of collagenase and elastase activity (measured by enzymatic assay) and also allows the normalization of the collagen network; a decrease in stress and inflammation markers (such as Hsp

70 and TNF-alpha, the measurement of which can be performed with specific antibodies) that contribute to skin reactivity and sensitivity and exacerbate the fragility of the skin and mucous or semi-mucous membranes.

Such a restructuring of the collagen network allows the altered dermis to find an architecture capable of providing a solid support for the epidermis, thereby promoting the cohesion of the epidermal cells. Thus, monounsaturated fatty acids lead to preserve the underlying skin tissue and thus improve the quality of the skin including scalp and / or mucous or semi-mucous membranes and correct its fragility.

For the purposes of the present invention, the restructuring of the collagenic network means that the collagen fibers in particular collect and reorient with respect to one another so as to form a solid support capable of maintaining a better cohesion of the dermal cells and / or or epidermal, necessary to preserve the cutaneous and / or subcutaneous tissue and thus improve the quality of the skin including scalp and / or mucous or semi-mucous membranes and also helps to correct its fragility, especially in subjects with skin, scalp and / or mucous or semi-mucous membranes weakened, sensitized, stressed and / or reactive.

Monounsaturated fatty acids

The term "monounsaturated fatty acid" in the sense of the present invention, a fatty acid comprising a single double bond.

It is more particularly long-chain fatty acids. The monounsaturated fatty acids that are suitable for the invention are monounsaturated fatty acids containing 12 to 22 carbon atoms.

The unsaturated fatty acids may be in acid form, or salt or in the form of derivatives including esters and amides of fatty acids.

When they are in the form of salts, the monounsaturated fatty acids can more particularly cosmetically acceptable salts, that is to say, inorganic salts such as ammonium or alkali metal salts (lithium, potassium , sodium) alkaline earth (magnesium, calcium) or aluminum salts. In particular, monounsaturated fatty acids are in the form of calcium salt.

When in ester form, thus, the monounsaturated fatty acids can be esterified with glycerol (mono-, di- or tri-acyl), an alcohol such as methyl and ethyl alcohols, a sugar, a tocopherol, a tocotrienol, a sterol or a fatty alcohol. As monounsaturated fatty acids, mention may be made of petroselinic acid (or delta-6-cis-octadecenoic acid at C 18), palmitoleic acid (or cis-9-hexadecenoic acid at C 16) or oleic acid (cis-9-octadecenoic acid, C 18). It is understood that the choice of fatty acids is made taking into account the purpose of the composition comprising them, in particular its mode of administration, topically or by air. By air means the upper airways (such as nasal passages, sinuses, mouth). Among the monounsaturated fatty acids, oleic acid and petroselinic acid are particularly used. Particularly suitable for the invention is petroselinic acid.

According to a variant of the invention, the monounsaturated fatty acid or acids are used in an isolated form, that is to say after extraction of their original source. According to another variant of the invention, the monounsaturated fatty acids or acids come from plant extracts such as oils.

Thus the invention relates in particular to the cosmetic use of an oil rich in monounsaturated fatty acid.

The oils rich in petroselinic acid are more particularly chosen from umbelliferous oils.

Oil rich in petroselinic acid is understood to mean an oil comprising at least 40% of pretroselinic acid.

Umbelliferae are plants whose flowers are arranged in umbels, species particularly rich in petroselenic acid are Umbellifarea-Apiacea and Araliaceae. Plants of the genus Thapsia are also sources of petroselenic acid (Avato et al, Lipids, 2001, 36, 845). The preferred species used in the invention are coriander, chervil, carrot, celery, caraway, caraway, parsley and dill. The umbelliferous oil used according to the invention can be extracted from the seed of this umbellifer, for example by grinding or pressing, then refining. Umbellifer oil has a petroselinic acid content that varies according to the umbelliferous seed from which it is extracted. For the same umbellifer, the petroselinic acid content also varies according to the country of origin of the umbellifer and according to the extraction which can be more or less complete.

Petroselenic acid is also an abundant compound (about 48%) of Gernium sanguneum seed oil (Tsevegsuren et al, Lipids, 2004, 39, 571).

The administration of the compounds according to the invention may in particular be carried out orally or topically, in particular, topically on the skin, the scalp and / or the mucous or semi-mucous membranes.

The content of monounsaturated fatty acid or ester of fatty acids in the compositions for the topical route according to the invention may vary from 0.0001 to 30% by weight, in particular from 0.01 to 15% by weight, and in particular from 0.1 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

The content of monounsaturated fatty acid or fatty acid esters in the compositions for the oral route will be such that the daily dose is between 0.5 and 2500 mg / day, in particular between 5 and 500 mg / day.

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the content of monounsaturated fatty acids in the compositions orally is such that the daily dose is preferably between 200 and 800 mg / day.

According to another embodiment of the invention, the content of monounsaturated fatty acids in the compositions orally is such that the daily dose is preferably between 90 and 110 mg / day. More specifically, the use according to the invention makes it possible to improve the surface state of the skin and / or the mucous or semi-mucous membranes.

By skin is meant any cutaneous surface of the body whether or not it is covered with hair or hair, especially the scalp.

applications

The use according to the invention also makes it possible to smooth the surface of the skin, the mucous or semi-mucous membranes and / or the scalp and / or to prevent and / or treat the roughness and / or the irregularities of the relief of the skin, thus ensuring better hold of makeup. In particular, the use according to the invention is intended to reinforce the mechanical resistance of the skin, the mucous or semi-mucous membranes and / or the scalp, in particular external aggressions chosen from environmental factors such as irritating agents or pollutants; mechanical stresses; thermal or climatic imbalances; xenobiotics; cosmetic or dermatological chemical treatments or by physiological factors.

The use according to the invention makes it possible to prevent and / or treat skins, and / or scalp and / or mucous or semi-mucous membranes weakened, sensitized, stressed and / or reactive.

In particular, said monounsaturated fatty acids are used to: prevent and / or reduce the fragilization of the skin and / or the mucous or semi-mucous membranes and / or protect the skin and / or the mucous membranes or semi-mucous membranes against external aggressions, particularly related to environmental factors (irritants or pollutants type (detergents, pollution, cigarette smoke ...), mechanical stresses (friction, abrasion, shaving, frequent hand washing), thermal or climatic imbalances (cold , dryness, radiation), xenobiotics (microorganisms, allergens), cosmetic or dermatological chemical treatments (peeling, anti-acne treatment ...), or by physiological factors (age, stress ...) and / or skin and / or mucous or semi-mucous membranes more resistant to external aggressions, and / or to improve the comfort of the skin, in particular to prevent and / or reduce tugging, tingling and / or - amoe to improve the surface appearance of the skin and / or the lips, in particular the roughness and / or the irregularities of the relief, and thus to promote in particular a better homogeneity of a makeup composition subsequently applied to the skin and / or the lips; and / or limit the formation of cracks or crevices on the lips, hands, face or body.

Another aspect of the invention relates to the use of at least one monounsaturated fatty acid, of one of its salts and / or of one of its esters, for the preparation of a composition intended for the treatment cracks and / or cracks, or skins, scalps and / or mucous or semi-mucous membranes exhibiting increased bacterial permeability.

According to another of its aspects, the invention relates to monounsaturated fatty acids, their salts and / or their esters for their use for the treatment of cracks and / or chapped skin, or skins, scalps and / or mucous or semi-skins. -mucosa with increased bacterial permeability. The alterations resulting from a lack of cohesion of the skin cells can also occur in so-called sensitive skin subjects and thus contribute to amplifying the alterations that are conventionally manifested in subjects with sensitive skin. Thus, according to one aspect of the invention, the cosmetic use object of the present invention is characterized in that it is intended for the treatment of sensitive skin.

In general, sensitive skin is defined by a particular reactivity of the skin. As opposed to skins described as allergic, the reactivity of a sensitive skin is not an immunological process, that is to say does not occur only on skin already sensitized in response to the presence of a skin. allergen. Its mechanism is said to be nonspecific.

It is in this respect to distinguish skin showing inflammatory and allergic reactions of the dermatitis, eczema and / or ichthyosis type, and against which a number of treatments have already been proposed.

This cutaneous reactivity is conventionally translated by the manifestation of signs of discomfort in response to the contacting of the subject with a triggering element that can have various origins. It can be the application of a cosmetic product on the surface of sensitive skin, food intake, exposure to temperature variations, including sudden temperature changes to atmospheric pollution and / or ultraviolet or infrared rays.

This reactivity may also be due to factors intrinsic to an individual, such as age and skin type. Sensitive skin is therefore more common among dry or oily skin than normal skin.

The appearance of these signs of discomfort, which appear in the minutes following the contact of the subject with the triggering element, is one of the essential characteristics of sensitive skin.

Sensitive skin is characterized in particular by manifestations such as dysaesthetic sensations. By dysaesthetic sensations we mean more or less painful sensations felt in a cutaneous zone, such as tingling, tingling, itching or pruritus, burning, heating, discomfort, tightness, etc. These subjective signs most often exist in the absence of visible chemical signs such as redness and flaking. It is now known that these skin irritation and intolerance reactions are notably related to a release of neuropeptides by the nerve endings of the epidermis and the dermis.

For obvious reasons, the absence of visible signs makes it difficult to diagnosis of sensitive skin. Most often, this diagnosis is based on the interview of the patient.

This symptomatology also has the advantage of making it possible to differentiate sensitive skin, irritation or contact allergy for which, on the other hand, there are visible inflammatory signs.

Consequently, the development of "sensitive skin" products required the availability of tools for assessing the sensory response of the skin. The first tools were inspired from their conception of the essential characteristic of sensitive skin to know the presence of signs of discomfort induced by a topical application. Thus, the "stinging test" with lactic acid was the first test proposed. It is performed by recording tingling sensation reported by a volunteer after application of a lactic acid solution at 10% on the wings of the nose. Subjects reporting moderate or severe tingling sensations are referred to as "stingers" and are considered to be sensitive skin. Because of this cutaneous sensitivity to the topical application of product, these subjects are then selected to test products known as sensitive skin.

More recently, to specifically activate the peripheral nerve endings, involved in the discomfort and called nociceptors, recently identified as being involved in sensitive skin, new tests have been proposed that use precisely other discomfort inducers such as capsaicin.

A second type of test for identifying sensitive skin subjects is described in EP 1 374 913.

For the purposes of the present invention, sensitive skin covers irritable skin and intolerant skin. An intolerant skin is a skin that reacts with sensations of heating, tugging, tingling and / or redness, to various factors such as the application of cosmetic or dermatological products or soap. In general, these signs are associated with erythema and hyper-seborrhoeic or acneic skin, or even rosacea, with or without darter. Irritable skin is a skin that reacts with pruritus, that is to say itching or tingling, to various factors such as the environment, emotions, food, wind, friction, razor , hard water with high concentration limestone, temperature variations or wool.

Most often, irritability of the skin results in visible signs such as redness of the skin, a feeling of warming of the skin or scalp (heat) up to a feeling of pain. By reinforcing the cohesion of the cells of the skin, the use according to the invention contributes to treating sensitive skin.

According to a particular aspect of the invention, it relates to the cosmetic use, especially orally, of at least one monounsaturated fatty acid, of one of its salts and / or of one of its esters in order to reinforce the cohesion of the cutaneous tissue of the skin, and thus treat or soothe sensitive skin.

According to another particular aspect of the invention, it relates to the cosmetic use, in particular orally, of at least one monounsaturated fatty acid, of one of its salts and / or of one of its esters for controlling against the dysesthetic sensations induced by a degradation of the cohesion of the cells of the skin in the subjects with sensitive skin. According to yet another particular aspect of the invention, it relates to the cosmetic use, in particular orally, of at least one monounsaturated fatty acid, of one of its salts and / or one of its esters for to combat the signs of discomfort resulting from the contact of the skin of a subject with sensitive skin with exposure to temperature variations, atmospheric pollution and / or ultraviolet or infra-red rays or may occur after taking food.

galenic

The compositions according to the invention are administered topically or orally. According to a particular embodiment, the compositions according to the invention are administered orally.

For ingestion, many embodiments of oral compositions and in particular dietary supplements are possible. Their formulation is carried out by the usual methods for producing dragees, capsules, gels, emulsions, tablets, capsules or solutions.

In particular, the active (s) according to the invention can be incorporated in all other forms of food supplements or fortified foods, for example food bars, or compacted powders or not. The powders can be diluted with water, in soda, dairy products or soy derivatives, or incorporated into food bars.

The active agents according to the invention can be formulated with the excipients and components customary for such oral compositions or food supplements, namely in particular fatty and / or aqueous components, humectants, thickeners, preservatives, texture, flavor and / or coating agents, antioxidants, preservatives and dyes common in the field of food.

The formulating agents and excipients for oral composition, and especially for food supplements, are known in this field and are not the subject of a detailed description here.

Examples of suitable food or pharmaceutical carriers are milk, yoghurt, cheese, fermented milk, fermented milk products, ice cream, fermented cereal products, milk-based powders, formulas for children and infants, especially pet food, tablets or tablets, suspensions of liquid bacteria, oral supplements in dry form and oral supplements in liquid form.

In particular, the composition according to the invention may be a food composition for human consumption. This may include, in particular, whole nutritional foods, beverages, mineral waters, soups, dietary supplements and substitute foods, nutritional bars, confectionery, milk-based products or fermented milk, yogurt, milk-based powders, enteral nutrition products, children's and / or infants' compositions, cereal-based products or fermented cereal products, ice cream, chocolate, coffee, "culinary" products such as mayonnaise, tomato puree or salad dressings. The composition according to the invention may also be intended for animals.

As regards the products intended to be applied in particular to the skin, the mucous membranes or semi-mucous membranes, superficial body growths, these may be aqueous, hydroalcoholic or oily solutions, dispersions of the type of solutions or dispersions of the lotion type or serum, emulsions of liquid or semi-liquid consistency of the milk type, suspensions or emulsions, cream type, aqueous or anhydrous gel, microemulsions, microcapsules, microparticles, or vesicular dispersions of ionic and / or nonionic type.

The cosmetic and / or dermatological compositions, more particularly concerned by a topical application, may especially be in the form of aqueous, hydroalcoholic or oily solutions, dispersions of the type of solutions or dispersions of the lotion or serum type, of emulsions of liquid consistency. or semi-liquid of the milk type, obtained by dispersion of a fatty phase in an aqueous phase (O / W) or conversely (W / O), or suspensions or emulsions of soft, semi-solid or solid consistency of the cream type , aqueous or anhydrous gel, or microemulsions, microcapsules, microparticles, or vesicular dispersions of ionic and / or nonionic type.

These compositions are prepared according to the usual methods. These compositions may in particular constitute creams for cleaning, protection, treatment or care for the face, for the hands, for the feet, for large anatomical folds or for the body, (for example, day creams, night creams). make-up creams, foundation creams, sunscreen creams), make-up products such as fluid foundations, make-up removing milks, protective or skincare body milks, after-sun milks, lotions, skin care gels or mousses, such as cleaning or disinfecting lotions, sunscreen lotions, artificial tanning lotions, bath compositions, deodorant compositions containing a bactericidal agent, gels or lotions after - shaving, hair removal creams, or insect bites.

The compositions according to the invention may also consist of solid preparations constituting soaps or cleaning bars. They may also be used for hair in the form of aqueous, alcoholic or aqueous-alcoholic solutions, or in the form of creams, gels, emulsions, foams or in the form of aerosol compositions also containing a propellant under pressure.

When the composition of the invention is an emulsion, the proportion of the fatty phase can range from 5 to 80% by weight, and preferably from 5 to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The oils, emulsifiers and coemulsifiers used in the composition in emulsion form are chosen from those conventionally used in the cosmetic and / or dermatological field. The emulsifier and the coemulsifier may be present in the composition in a proportion ranging from 0.3 to 30% by weight, and preferably from 0.5 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. When the composition of the invention is a solution or an oily gel, the fatty phase may represent more than 90% of the total weight of the composition.

In known manner, the cosmetic and / or dermatological composition of the invention may also contain adjuvants customary in the pharmaceutical and / or dermatological cosmetic field, such as hydrophilic or lipophilic gelling agents, hydrophilic or lipophilic active agents, preservatives, antioxidants solvents, perfumes, fillers, filters, bactericides, odor absorbers and dyestuffs. The amounts of these various adjuvants are those conventionally used in the field under consideration, and for example from 0.01 to 20% of the total weight of the composition. These adjuvants, depending on their nature, can be introduced into the fatty phase and / or into the aqueous phase.

Fats which can be used in the invention include mineral oils such as, for example, hydrogenated polyisobutene and liquid petroleum jelly, vegetable oils such as, for example, a liquid fraction of shea butter, sunflower oil and almonds. apricot, animal oils such as perhydrosqualene, synthetic oils including Purcellin oil, isopropyl myristate and ethyl hexyl palmitate, and fluorinated oils such as perfluoropolyethers. It is also possible to use fatty alcohols, fatty acids such as stearic acid and, for example, waxes such as paraffin, carnauba and beeswax. It is also possible to use silicone compounds such as silicone oils and, for example, cyclomethicone and dimethicone, waxes, resins and silicone gums. These compounds can be functionalized or not.

As emulsifiers that can be used in the invention, mention may be made, for example, of glycerol stearate, polysorbate 60, the cetylstearyl alcohol / cetylstearyl alcohol mixture oxyethylenated with 33 moles of ethylene oxide sold under the name Sinnowax AO® by Henkel. the mixture of PEG-6 / PEG-32 / glycol stearate sold under the name Tefose® 63 by Gattefosse, PPG-3 myristyl ether, silicone emulsifiers such as cetyldimethicone copolyol and sorbitan mono- or tristearate, PEG-40 stearate, oxyethylenated sorbitan monostearate (20OE).

As solvents that can be used in the invention, mention may be made of lower alcohols, in particular ethanol and isopropanol, and propylene glycol. As hydrophilic gelling agents, mention may be made of carboxylic polymers such as carbomer, acrylic copolymers such as copolymers of acrylates / alkyl acrylates, polyacrylamides and in particular the polyacrylamide mixture, C13-14-Isoparaffin and Laureth-7 sold under the name Sepigel 305® by the company SEPPIC, polysaccharides such as cellulose derivatives such as hydroxyalkylcelluloses and in particular hydroxypropylcellulose and hydroxyethylcellulose, natural gums such as guar, carob and xanthan and clays.

As lipophilic gelling agents, mention may be made of modified clays such as bentones, metal salts of fatty acids such as aluminum stearates and hydrophobic silica, or else ethylcellulose and polyethylene.

Associations

Monounsaturated fatty acids that can be used according to the invention can be associated with active ingredients. As active agents that may be mentioned are vitamins B3, B5, B6, B8, C, E, or PP, carotenoids, curcuminoids and niacin.

In particular, it is possible to use an antioxidant complex comprising vitamins C and E, and at least one carotenoid, in particular a carotenoid chosen from β-carotene, lycopene, astaxanthin, zeaxanthin and lutein, such as favonoids. as catechins, hesperidin, proanthocyanidins and anthocyanins.

The composition may contain one or more divalent mineral cation (s) in different forms. The divalent mineral cation may thus be in the form of an inorganic or organic salt, anhydrous or hydrated or a chelated complex. These salts may be for example carbonates, bicarbonates, sulphates, glycerophosphates, chlorides, nitrates, acetates, hydroxides, oxides, salts of α-hydroxy acids (citrates, tartrates, lactates, malates) or of fruit acids, or salts of amino acids (aspartate, arginate, fumarate) or salts of fatty acids (palmitate, oleate, caseinate, behenate). The divalent mineral cation is selected from manganese, copper and / or zinc or from alkaline earth. As the alkaline earth metal used in the invention, mention may be made of barium, calcium, magnesium, strontium and / or beryllium. Advantageously, the divalent inorganic cation and in particular the alkaline earth metal is used in the present invention in salt form. In particular, the salt may be chosen from nitrate, citrate, chloride, gluconate, sulfate, lactate and / or acetate salts. The divalent mineral cation may also be used in the form of a chelated complex, in particular with crystallized or ionized proteins. The divalent inorganic cation may also be in a specific form stored by a microorganism, for example of yeast type, like selenium yeasts.

It is possible advantageously to use in the mixtures bacterial extracts among the non-photosynthetic and non-fruiting filamentous bacteria as defined according to the Bergey's Manual of Systemic Bacteriology classification, volume 3, section 23, 9th edition 1989. bacteria belonging to the order Beggiatoales, including bacteria belonging to the genus Beggiotoa. There may also be mentioned bacteria belonging to the genus Vitreoscilla, close to the genus Beggiatoa. Among the bacteria that can be used, mention may be made, for example, of Vitreoscilla beggiatoides (ATCC 43181) and Beggiatoa alba (ATCC33555), and preferably the use of the extract of Vitreoscilla filiformis with in particular the ATCC 15551 strain, its metabolites and its fractions may to be used.

The composition also advantageously comprises at least one probiotic, a prebiotic or a mixture of probiotics and a mixture of prebiotics.

Specific examples of probiotic microorganisms are Bifidobacterium adolescentis, Bifidobacterium animalis, Bifidobacterium bifidum, Short Bifidobacterium, Bifidobacterium lactis, Bifidobacterium longum, Bifidobacterium infantis, Bifidobacterium pseudocatenulatum, Lactobacillus acidophilus (LCl, NCFB 1748); Lactobacillus amylovorus, Lactobacillus casei (Shirota), Lactobacillus rhamnosus (strain GG), Lactobacillus brevis, Lactobacillus crispatus, Lactobacillus delbrueckii (subsp bulgaricus, lactis), Lactobacillus fermentum, Lactobacillus helveticus, Lactobacillus gallinarum, Lactobacillus gasseri, Lactobacillus johnsonii, Lactobacillus paracasei, Lactobacillus Plantarum, Lactobacillus reuteri, Lactobacillus rhamnosus, Lactobacillus salivarius), Lactobacillus alimentarius, Lactobacillus curvatus, Lactobacillus casei subsp. casei, Lactobacillus sake Lactococcus lactis, Enterococcus (faecalis, faecium), Lactococcus lactis (subsp lactis or cremoris), Leuconstoc mesenteroid.es subsp dextranicum, Pediococcus acidilactici, Sporolactobacillus inulinus, Streptococcus salvarius subsp. Thermophilus, Streptococcus thermophilus, Staphylococcus carnosus, Staphylococcus xylosus, Saccharomyces (cerevisiae or boulardii), Bacillus (cereus var toyo or subtilis), Bacillus coagulans, Bacillus licheniformis, Escherichia coli strain nissle, Propionibacterium freudenreichii, and mixtures thereof.

The microorganisms may be formulated as powders, i.e., in a dry form, or as suspensions or solutions.

More particularly, it is probiotic microorganisms from the group of lactic acid bacteria, such as Lactobacillus and / or Bifidobacterium. As an illustration of these lactic acid bacteria, there may be mentioned more particularly Lactobacillus johnsonii, Lactobacillus reuteri, Lactobacillus rhamnosus, Lactobacillus paracasei, Lactobacillus casei or Bifidobacterium bifidum, Bifidobacterium breva, Bifidobacterium longum, Bifidobacterium animalis, Bifidobacterium lactis, Bifidobacterium infantis, Bifidobacterium adolescentis or Bifidobacterium pseudocatenulatum and mixtures thereof.

The most suitable species are Lactobacillus johnsonii, Lactobacillus paracasei, Bifidobacterium adolescentis, Bifidobacterium longum and Bifidobacterum Lactis NCC 2818 (also designated Bb 12 ATCC 27536) respectively deposited according to the Budapest Treaty with the Institut Pasteur (28 Rue du Docteur Roux, F-75024 Paris cedex 15) the 30/06/92, 12/01/99, 15/04/99, 15/04/99, 07/06/05 under the following designations CNCM 1-1225, CNCM 1-2116 , CNCM 1-2168 and CNCM 1-2170 and CNCM 1-3446, and the genus Bifidobacterium longum (BB536). The Bifidobacterium lactis strain CNCM 1-3446 can be obtained from Hansen (Hansen A / S Chr., 10-12 Boege Allé, PO Box 407, DK-2970 Hoersholm, Denmark).

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises at least two microorganisms, including probiotics and / or metabolites and / or different fractions. These microorganisms may differ by their nature for example bacterium and fungus, or by their family, their genus, their species, or only by their stock. More particularly, the prebiotics may be chosen from oligosaccharides, produced from glucose, galactose, xylose, maltose, sucrose, lactose, starch, xylan, hemicellulose, inulin, gums, of the acacia type, for example, or one of their mixtures. More particularly, the oligosaccharide comprises at least one fructooligosaccharide. More particularly, this prebiotic may comprise a mixture of fructo-oligosaccharide and inulin.

The composition may also advantageously contain polyunsaturated fatty acids which comprise, in particular, the acides-3 fatty acids and the acides-6 fatty acids, characterized by the position of the unsaturation closest to the terminal methyl group and more particularly to the invention the acids. unsaturated fatty acids having from 18 to 22 carbon atoms, in particular polyunsaturated fatty acids, especially ω-3 and ω-6 fatty acids.

Among the polyunsaturated fatty acids of the ω-6 series that may be used in the composition, mention may be made in particular of linoleic acid with 18 carbon atoms and two unsaturations (18: 2, ω-6), γ-linolenic acid. at 18 carbon atoms and three unsaturations (18: 3, ω-6), di-homogamalinolenic acid with 20 carbon atoms and 3 unsaturations (20: 3, ω-6), arachidonic acid, acid 5, 8, 11, 14 eicosatetraenoic (20: 4, ω-6) and docosatetraenoic acid (22: 4, ω-6).

The polyunsaturated fatty acids of the ω-3 series can be chosen in particular from α-linolenic acid (18: 3, ω-3), stearidonic acid (18: 4, ω-3), acid 5, 8,11,14,17-eicosapentaenoic or EPA (20: 5, ω-3), and 4,7,10,13,16,19-docosaheaxaenoic acid or DHA (22: 6, ω-3), docosapentanoic acid (22.5, ω-3), n-butyl-5,11,14-eicosatrienonic acid. And most particularly to the invention, α-linolenic acid, γ-linolenic acid, stearidonic acid, eicosapentaenoic acid, docosahexaenoic acid, mixtures thereof or extracts containing them.

The sources of γ-linolenic acid may be chosen from vegetable oils such as, for example, evening primrose, borage, blackcurrant seed, echium and hemp, and extracts of the spirulina microalgae (Spirulina maxima and Spirulina platensis). Vegetable oils of nuts, hazelnuts, almonds (Juglans regia), coriander and soy (Glycina max), rapeseed (Brassica naptus), chia, flax, muscat rose and fish oils, for example, are rich in polyunsaturated fatty acids of the series ω- 3. Polyunsaturated fatty acids ω-3 can also be found in zooplankton, crustaceans / molluscs and fish. Fish oils are the main industrial source of EPA and DHA. Microalgae biomass can also be a raw material for des-3 unsaturated fatty acid extraction. Thus, the unsaturated fatty acid may be used in the composition in the form of at least one oil chosen from evening primrose, borage, blackcurrant seed, walnut, soya, fish and sunflower oils. , sprouts of wheat, hemp, fenugreek, muscat rose, echium, argan, baobab, rice bran, sesame, almond, walnut, hazelnut, chia, flax , musk rose, olive, avocado, safflower, coriander and / or microalgae biomass extract (eg spirulina), or zooplankton extracts.

As hydrophilic active agents, it is possible to use proteins or protein hydrolysates, amino acids, and especially C ₂ -C ₁₀ polyols such as glycerol, sorbitol, butylene glycol and polyethylene glycol, urea, allantoin, sugars and sugar derivatives, water-soluble vitamins, starch, bacterial or plant extracts such as Aloe Vera.

As lipophilic active agents, it is possible to use retinol (vitamin A) and its derivatives, tocopherol (vitamin E) and its derivatives, ceramides, essential oils.

In addition, the active agents according to the invention may be combined with active agents intended in particular for the prevention and / or treatment of cutaneous affections. In addition, the composition of the invention may advantageously contain a thermal and / or mineral water, in particular chosen from Vittel water, the waters of the Vichy basin and Roche Posay water.

According to another of its objects, the present invention relates to a cosmetic treatment process for skins, and / or mucous or semi-mucous membranes and / or scalp that are embrittled, sensitized, stressed and / or reactive, which can be implemented in particular. by applying the cosmetic compositions as defined above, according to the usual technique of use of these compositions. For example: applications of creams, gels, serums, lotions, cleansing milks or after-sun compositions on the skin or on dry hair, application of a hair lotion on wet hair, shampoos, or still application of toothpaste on the gums.

The cosmetic process according to the invention can be implemented by oral, daily administration of a composition formulated for example in the form of capsules, gels, lotions, dragees, emulsions, tablets, capsules or drinkable ampoules, in an appropriate quantity and number, depending on their form.

The method according to the invention may comprise a single administration. According to another embodiment, the administration is repeated for example 2 to 3 times daily on a day or more and generally over an extended period of at least 4 weeks, or even 4 to 15 weeks, with one or more if necessary periods of interruption.

In the following description and examples, unless otherwise indicated, percentages are percentages by weight and ranges of values in the form "between ... and ..." include the specified lower and upper bounds. The ingredients are mixed, before they are shaped, in the order and under conditions easily determined by those skilled in the art.

The following examples are presented by way of illustration and not limitation of the field of the invention.

Example 1 - compositions for the oral route

Example 1: Stick powder

You can take a stick a day. Example Ib: Dragée Formulation

This type of dragee can be taken 1 to 3 times a day.

Examples 2 - compositions for the topical route

The ingredients are expressed as a percentage by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Example 2a: Facial lotion for sensitized skin

Powder of Lactobacillus paracasei STl 1 5.00

Bifidobacterium longum powder 5.00

Magnesium gluconate 3.00 Calcium lactate 2.00

Carvi Oil 3,00

0.05 Antioxidant

Isopropanol 40.0

Conservative 0.30 Water qs 100%

Example 2b: milk for the care of the face of fragile skin

Magnesium chloride 3.00

Calcium ascorbate 3.00 Powder of Lactobacillus paracasei STIl 5.00

Bifidobacterium lactis powder Bb 12 5.00

Glycerol stearate 1.00

Dill oil 5.00 Alcohol Oil cetylstearyl alcohol / oxyethylenated cetylstearyl to 30 mol EO (Sinnowax AO ^® sold by the company Henkel) 3.00

Cetyl alcohol 1.00

Dimethicone (DC 200 Fluid ^® sold by the company

DOW CORNING) 1.00

Vaseline oil 6.00

Isopropyl myristate (Estol IMP 1514 sold ^® by UNICHEMA) 3.00

0.05 Antioxidant

Glycerine 20,00

Conservative 0.30

Water qs 100 Example 2c: gel for the facial care of reactive skin

Strontium nitrate 4.00

Borage Oil 3,00

Fennel Oil 2.00

Bifidobacterium lactis BbI powder 2 5.00

Hydroxypropylcellulose (Klucel H ^® sold by the company

HERCULES) 1.00

Vitamin E 2.50

0.05 Antioxidant

Isopropanol 40.00

Conservative 0.30

Water qs 100%

Example 2d: Milk for Facial Care of Sensitive Skin Magnesium Ascorbate 3.00

Blackcurrant seed oil 4.00

Coriander oil 4.00

Powder of Lactobacillus paracasei STl 1 5.00

Bifidobacterium lactis Bb 12 powder 5.00 Glyceryl stearate 1.00 Cetylstearyl alcohol / oxyethylenated cetylstearyl alcohol with 3 moles OE (Sinnovax AO ^® sold by the company Henkel) 3.00

Cetyl alcohol 1.00 Dimethicone (DC 200 Fluid ^® sold by the company Dow Corning) 1.00 Liquid petroleum jelly 6.00 Isopropyl myristate (Estol IPM 1514 ^® sold by the company Unichema) 3.00

Glycerine 20,00

Conservative 0.30 Water Example 2e: Cream for skin of weakened hands

Arachidyl behenyl alcohol / arachidylglusoside 3.0%

Isohexadecane 7.0%

Sweet Almond Oil 3.0% Shea Butter 2.0%

Glycerin 2.0%

Coriander oil 5.0%

Extract of Vitreoscilla filiformis 3.0%

BHT 0.05% POB methyl 0.1%

Propyl POB 0.05% Water qs 100%

Example 2f: Gel for the care of reactive skin (% by weight)

Coriander oil 5.00

Evening Primrose Oil 2,00

Cherry oil 5,00

Copper Citrate 2.00 Extract of Vitreoscilla filiformis 3.00

0.05 Antioxidant

Vitamin C 2.50

0.05 Antioxidant

Isopropanol 40.00 Preservative 0.30

Water qs 100,00

Claims

1. Cosmetic use of at least one monounsaturated fatty acid, of one of its salts and / or of one of its esters for reinforcing the cohesion of cutaneous tissue of the skin, scalp and / or mucous membranes or semi-mucous membranes.

2. Use according to claim 1 for improving the surface condition of the skin and / or mucous or semi-mucous membranes.

3. Use according to claim 2, for smoothing the surface of the skin, mucous or semi-mucous membranes and / or scalp and / or preventing and / or treating roughness and / or irregularities of the relief of the skin.

4. Use according to claim 3, to improve the best hold of makeup.

5. Use according to claim 1, to enhance the mechanical strength of the skin, mucous or semi-mucous and / or scalp.

6. Use according to the preceding claim, for reinforcing the mechanical strength of the skin, mucous membranes or semi-mucous membranes and / or scalp vis-à-vis external aggressions selected from the environmental factors of irritants or pollutants; mechanical stresses; thermal or climatic imbalances; xenobiotics; cosmetic or dermatological chemical treatments or by physiological factors.

7. Use according to any one of the preceding claims, for the prevention and / or treatment of skins and / or scalps and / or mucous or semi- mucous membranes weakened, sensitized, stressed and / or reactive.

8. Use according to claim 1 for the treatment of sensitive skin.

9. Use of at least one monounsaturated fatty acid, of one of its salts and / or of one of its esters, for the preparation of a composition intended for the treatment of cracks and / or cracks or hides, scalps and / or mucous or semi-mucous membranes showing increased bacterial permeability.

10. Cosmetic use, in particular orally, of at least one mono-unsaturated fatty acid, of one of its salts and / or of one of its esters for combating the dysesthetic sensations induced by a degradation of the cohesion of the skin cells in sensitive skin subjects.

11. Cosmetic use, in particular orally, of at least one mono-unsaturated fatty acid, of one of its salts and / or of one of its esters for combating the signs of discomfort occurring following the setting contact with the skin of a sensitive skin subject to exposure to temperature variations, air pollution and / or ultraviolet or infra-red rays or may occur following the intake of food.

12. Use according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the monounsaturated fatty acid is used in isolated form or in a plant extract.

Use according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein said monounsaturated fatty acid is administered topically.

14. Use according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the monounsaturated fatty acid its salt and / or its ester is used in a composition, in particular a topical composition, and in that the monohydric fatty acid content is unsaturated salt and / or its ester is between 0.0001 and 30% by weight especially between 0.001 and 15% by weight, in particular between 0.1 and 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

The use of any one of claims 1 to 12, wherein said monounsaturated fatty acid is orally administered.

16. Use according to the preceding claim, wherein the content of monounsaturated fatty acid salt and / or its ester is such that the daily dose is between 0.5 and 2500 mg / day, in particular between 5 and 500 mg / day.

17. Use according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein said monounsaturated fatty acid is petroselinic acid.

18. Use according to the preceding claim, wherein the petroselinic acid is used in the form of umbelliferous oil or Gernium sanguneum.

19. Use according to the preceding claim, wherein the umbelliferous oil is selected from coriander seed oil, chervil, carrot, celery, caraway, caraway, parsley and dill.

20. Use according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein said monounsaturated fatty acid is used in combination with at least one active ingredient selected from vitamins B3, B5, B6, B8, C, E, or PP, carotenoids. , curcuminoids, niacin, fiavonoids, one or more divalent mineral cation (s), bacterial extracts of non-photosynthetic and non-photosynthetic filamentous bacteria fruiting, probiotics, prebiotics or a mixture of probiotics and / or a mixture of prebiotics.

21. Cosmetic process for the treatment of skins and / or mucous or semi-mucous membranes and / or scalp which are embrittled, sensitized, stressed and / or reactive, comprising topical application or oral administration of a composition comprising at least one fatty acid monounsaturated, one of its salts and / or one of its esters.