WO2009053564A2 - Cosmetic use of a lysate of bifidobacterium species for reinforcing the skin barrier function - Google Patents

Abstract

The invention relates to the cosmetic use of an efficient amount of a lysate of at least one micro-organism of the Bifidobacterium species type and/or of one of the fractions thereof for preventing a decrease of and/or for reinforcing the skin barrier function.

Description

 Cosmetic use of Biβdobacterium species lysate to enhance the skin barrier function

The present invention aims to provide a new active to prevent a decrease in and / or enhance the barrier function of the skin. It aims in particular the prevention and / or treatment of cutaneous signs of chronological aging and the use of this same active ingredient as an anti-irritant agent.

Human skin consists of two compartments, namely a deep compartment, the dermis and a superficial compartment, the epidermis.

It is a barrier against external aggressions, especially chemical, mechanical or infectious, and as such a number of defense reactions against environmental factors (climate, ultraviolet rays, tobacco, ...) and / or xenobiotics, such as for example microorganisms, occur at its level.

This property, called barrier function, is mainly provided by the most superficial layer of the epidermis, namely the stratum corneum, called the stratum corneum. The cells constituting the epidermis (mainly the keratinocytes, but also the melanocytes and the Langerhans cells) are delimited by an intercellular lipid structure. Each of these cell types contributes by its own functions to the essential role played in the body by the skin. In particular, the keratinocytes undergo a continuous and oriented maturation process which, keratinocytes found in the basal layer of the epidermis, results in the formation of corneocytes, which are completely keratinized dead cells consisting of end-stage keratinocytes. differentiation.

During differentiation, the phospholipids whose role consists in elaborating the fluid structure of the cell membranes of the living layers of the epidermis, are gradually replaced by a mixture composed mainly of fatty acids, cholesterol and sphingo lipids (ceramides). These lipids, which are organized in specific lamellar liquid crystal phases, form the intracellular cement of the stratum corneum and are essential for water exchanges and the barrier function of the epidermis.

Thus, the lamellar structure of lipids of the lipid domain of the epidermis and corneocytes participate in the epidermal barrier function.

It is clear that the quality of the cutaneous barrier and mucous membranes is dependent on complex endogenous biological mechanisms involving numerous growth factors, adhesion molecules, hormones and lipid metabolism enzymes.

However, an alteration of the skin barrier can occur following external aggression type irritants (detergents, acids, bases, oxidants, reducing agents, concentrated solvents, toxic gases or fumes), mechanical stresses (friction, shock, abrasion, tearing) surface, dust, particles, shaving or waxing), thermal or climatic imbalances (cold, dryness), xenobiotics

(unwanted microorganisms, allergens) or internal stress type psychological stress or more generally during aging of the skin. This alteration of the cutaneous barrier can in particular result for a subject by sensations of cutaneous discomfort, sensory phenomena and / or the appearance of undesirable or even painful signs of skin such as irritation.

These sensations are generally the consequence of a partial denudation of the sensory nerve endings of the surface of the skin or scalp, especially the C fibers of neurons, or chemical, thermal, mechanical or baroreceptor receptors or sensors. The subject may then experience a sensation of cutaneous discomfort that can manifest itself in particular by tingling, tightness, warm-up, itching.

The aforementioned signs of discomfort may also be associated with undesirable skin signs, such as redness, irritation, scars, inflammatory erythema, edema and / or pimples. Thus are also considered according to the present the prevention and / or the treatment of cutaneous irritations.

Irritated skin is one that shows at least one of the following undesirable skin signs, namely redness, irritation, pruritus, scars, inflammatory erythema, edema and / or pimples and / or which induces at least one sensation of discomfort such as itching, tingling and tugging.

It is known that skin irritation involves a cascade of reactions which, through the recruitment of infiltrating blood cells (neutrophils, macrophages,

Langherans) and the substances they release (cytokines, lymphokines, chemokines, etc.) give rise to the persistent irritating process, which is mainly characterized by irritation of the skin or involution of the hair bulb and its matrix environment. It is also known that certain cutaneous disorders are related to an inflammatory or immunoallergic cutaneous reaction, among which inflammatory erythema, psoriasis, cutaneous atopy, atopic dermatitis, allergic reactions of immediate hypersensitivity type, such as urticaria, allergic reactions of delayed hypersensitivity type, such as contact dermatitis, eczema; seborrheic dermatitis, acne, inflammatory hyperpigmentations, immune dermatoses, actinic elastosis, alopecia areata or alopecia areata; vitiligo; systemic lupus erythematosus; pemphigus vulgaris; dystrophic bulbous epidermolyses and canities of autoimmune origin. Finally, with regard to exogenous stress, it is known that topical compounds can, in particular circumstances, lead to the appearance of cutaneous reactions, when they are used in cosmetic or dermatological compositions, of course for others. effects. Thus, use is made of cosmetic compositions containing, for example, keratolytic and / or desquamating active ingredients for combating aging, and in particular exfoliating active agents and / or promoting agents for cell renewal, such as α-hydroxy acids (especially acidic acids). lactic, glycolic, citric), β-hydroxy acids (in particular salicylic acid, n-octanoyl-5-salicylic acid) and retinoids (especially retinoic acid, all trans or 13-cis, retinol). Unfortunately, if these assets are used in too large quantities, they can cause skin irritation. The use of these compounds especially for users with irritable and / or allergic skin and / or scalp should therefore be limited.

In general, the skin disorders mentioned above are more common in the most exposed areas of the body, namely the hands, feet, face, and scalp. They can occur especially in areas subject to certain daily hygiene or frequently renewed gestures such as shaving, hair removal, deterging with toiletries or household products, the application of adhesives (dressings, patches, fixation of prostheses) or in the case of sports, professional gestures or simply related to the lifestyle and the use of clothing, tools or equipment generating localized friction. They can also be amplified by psychological stress. The aforementioned skin disorders affect all people, and in particular: people with 'fragile' or 'delicate' and vulnerable skin quickly becoming unbalanced during changes in temperature or relative humidity of great amplitude (case of skin of baby for example); people with 'fragile' skin, including people whose protective hydro-lipidic film composed of sweat, sebum and natural moisturizing factors is becoming scarce, as is the case for people over the age of 60 years and especially in the context of old age (at least 75 years old); people whose composition of the hydro-lipid film is modified, as is the case of diabetics, or dialysis, or with certain diseases; people with skin 'aggressed' for shaved skin for example and - people with irritable skin.

Thus, a strengthening of the cutaneous barrier is particularly advantageous for preventing the manifestation and / or treating undesirable skin disorders such as, for example, reactions of cutaneous irritations, in particular of inflammatory nature. Moreover, over time, there appear different signs on the skin, very characteristic of intrinsic aging, reflected in particular by a change in structure and cutaneous functions.

Another component of aging is of exogenous origin (Yaar and Gilchrest, J Invest Dermatol, 1998). Indeed, aging can be accelerated by environmental factors such as pollution. Thus, different types of chemicals, xenobiotics and particles make up urban pollution. Among these compounds, three major categories of pollutants can exert deleterious effects on the skin: gases, heavy metals and particles, which are the combustion residues on which a large number of organic compounds are adsorbed. For obvious reasons, it is therefore permanently sought to improve the resistance of the skin against gases, heavy metals, organic compounds and combustion residues and their deleterious effects encountered in particular in the urban pollution, acting in an isolated or combined way, and indeed to slow the signs of irritation, aging, consequences of tissue damage induced by said pollutants.

Consequently, it appears valuable to prevent a decrease in and / or strengthen the skin barrier function to: prevent and / or reduce the sensations of cutaneous discomfort, tingling, tightness, heating and itching, especially in people with fragile skin or delicate (eg babies); or people with weakened skin (such as persons aged 60 or over and especially those aged 75 or over), or persons whose composition of the hydro-lipid film is modified, as is the case diabetic patients, or dialysis patients, or those suffering from certain diseases, to improve the cutaneous barrier function of atopic skins and / or to prolong the remission phases between acute attacks of this type of disease, to prevent and / or to reduce skin irritation and and / or - prevent and / or reduce the signs of chronological skin aging.

It has now been found, quite surprisingly, that the use of a lysate of microorganisms of the genus Bifidobacterium species or one of their fractions made it possible to give satisfaction in these terms. Accordingly, according to a first aspect, the subject of the invention is the cosmetic use of an effective amount of a lysate of at least one microorganism of the genus Bifidobacterium species and / or one of its fractions to prevent a decrease in and / or strengthen the skin barrier function.

It also relates to the use of an effective amount of a lysate of at least one microorganism of the genus Bifidobacterium species and / or one of its fractions as an active ingredient for the preparation of a composition intended to prevent a decrease and / or to strengthen the cutaneous barrier function, in particular to prevent the manifestation and / or to treat undesirable skin disorders.

As is apparent from the tests presented below, it is found after a prolonged administration of a lysate according to the invention, a significant strengthening of the cutaneous barrier function. The lysate considered according to the invention thus makes it possible to maintain the barrier function of the skin at its level of normal efficiency, that is to say the level at which it performs its function of protecting the body.

In particular, it thus ensures the maintenance of the barrier function of the skin when it is subjected to aggression and / or increase the time at the end of which it will be altered.

For the purposes of the invention, the expression "reinforcing the barrier function of the skin" means improving the barrier function of the skin.

This improvement is particularly decisive when the barrier function of the skin is impaired and it is necessary to restore it.

It may also be advantageous when it is desired to consolidate the native barrier function of the skin, in order to confer in particular on the body a better resistance to external aggressions against which it is likely to be exposed. Thus, the compositions which contain the lysate of at least one microorganism of the genus Bifidobacterium species and / or one of its fractions, may be intended to prevent the manifestation of and / or reduce undesirable cutaneous signs, in particular induced by exogenous stress. of chemical, environmental, mechanical origin and / or endogenous stress, in particular at the level of fragile, fragile skin (for example the skins of babies, of persons of at least 60 years, preferably at least 75 aged, diabetic, or dialyzed), atopic, and / or irritated, as defined above.

In particular, as is apparent from the examples below, the lysates according to the present invention prove to be effective as an anti-irritant agent. The invention therefore also relates, in another of its aspects, to the cosmetic use of at least one effective amount of lysate of at least one microorganism of the genus Bifidobacterium species and / or one of its fractions, as an agent for enhancing the protection of the skin, in particular the barrier function against external aggressions. It also relates to the use of an effective amount of lysate of at least one microorganism of the genus Bifidobacterium species and / or a fraction thereof for the preparation of a composition intended to prevent and / or treat cutaneous irritations. In particular, it relates to the cosmetic use of an effective amount of a lysate of at least one microorganism of the genus Bifidobacterium species and / or one of its fractions to enhance the cutaneous barrier function against aggression (s). external type (s) irritants such as for example detergents, acids, bases, oxidants, reducing agents, concentrated solvents, toxic gases or fumes, with regard to mechanical stress (s) such as for example friction, shocks, abrasion, tearing of the surface, projection of dust, particles, shaving or waxing, with regard to thermal (s) or climatic (s) imbalances such as for example the cold, with respect to the drought, screws with respect to xenobiotics (undesirable micro-organisms, allergens) or internal stress-type attacks.

The invention also relates to the cosmetic use of an effective amount of a lysate of at least one microorganism of the genus Bifidobacterium species and / or a fraction thereof for preventing and / or treating cutaneous irritations, in particular as defined above . In particular, the invention relates to the use of an effective amount of a lysate of at least one microorganism of the genus Bifidobacterium species and / or a fraction thereof for the preparation of a composition intended to prevent and / or treat cutaneous signs of chronological aging.

In the context of the invention, the lysate of a microorganism of the genus Bifidobacterium species according to the invention can also be used for application to healthy skin, subject to or capable of being subjected to the influence of agents such as climatic agents such as wind and temperature variations and thus likely to manifest skin discomfort.

In particular, the present invention aims according to one of its aspects the cosmetic use of an effective amount of a lysate of at least one microorganism of the genus Bifidobacterium species and / or one of its fractions to prevent and / or treat an alteration the barrier function of the skin due to atmospheric pollutants.

Thus, it relates to the cosmetic use of an effective amount of a lysate of at least one microorganism, of the genus Bifidobacterium species and / or a fraction thereof, for preventing and / or treating the cutaneous signs resulting from exposure to atmospheric pollutants. More particularly, these cutaneous signs may be the loss of firmness and elasticity of the skin, drying of the skin and / or a dull complexion.

The invention is further directed to the cosmetic use of an effective amount of a lysate of at least one microorganism of the genus Bifidobacterium species and / or a fraction thereof for preventing and / or treating disorders generated by oxidative stress. initiated by an environmental oxidant, such as for example oxygen, ozone and / or oxides of nitrogen and sulfur.

According to another of its aspects, the invention relates to a particularly cosmetic treatment method for preventing a decrease in and / or reinforcing the cutaneous barrier function of a subject comprising at least the administration to said subject of an effective amount of a lysate of at least one microorganism of the genus Bifidobacterium species and / or a fraction thereof.

According to yet another of its aspects, the subject of the invention is a method of treatment, in particular a cosmetic treatment, for preventing and / or treating cutaneous irritations of a subject comprising at least the administration, particularly orally or topically, of said subject. an effective amount of a lysate of at least one microorganism of the genus

Bifidobacterium species and / or a fraction thereof.

According to another of its aspects, the subject of the present invention is a particularly topical, cosmetic and / or dermatological composition, in particular useful for preventing a decrease in and / or reinforcing the cutaneous barrier function, comprising in a physiologically acceptable support, at minus an effective amount of a lysate of at least one microorganism of the genus Bifidobacterium species, and / or a fraction thereof, in combination with an effective amount of at least one anti-pollution agent. By "effective amount" is meant in the sense of the present invention an amount sufficient to achieve the expected effect.

For the purpose of the present invention, the term "prevent" means to reduce the risk of manifestation of the phenomenon under consideration.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "treating" means providing for a physiological dysfunction and more generally for reducing or even eliminating an undesirable disorder and the manifestation of which is in particular a consequence of this dysfunction. microorganisms

As previously stated, the microorganisms of the genus Bifidobacterium species used as active agents according to the invention are used in the form of a lysate and / or one of its fractions.

A lysate commonly refers to a material obtained at the end of the destruction or dissolution of biological cells by a phenomenon called cell lysis thus causing the release of the intracellular biological constituents naturally contained in the cells of the microorganism in question. For the purposes of the present invention, the term lysate is used interchangeably to designate the entirety of the lysate obtained by lysis of the microorganism concerned or only a fraction thereof.

The lysate used is therefore formed in all or part of the intracellular biological constituents and constituents of the cell walls and membranes. More specifically, it contains the cellular cytoplasmic fraction containing enzymes such as lactic acid dehydrogenase, phosphatases, phosphoketolases, transaldolases and metabolites. As an illustration, the constituents of the cell walls are in particular peptidoglycan, murein or mucopeptide and teichoic acid and the constituents of cell membranes are composed of glycerophospholipids.

This cell lysis can be accomplished by various technologies, such as, for example, osmotic shock, thermal shock, ultrasound, or else under mechanical stress such centrifugation.

More particularly, this lysate can be obtained according to the technology described in US Pat. No. 4,464,362 and in particular according to the following protocol.

The microorganism considered Bifidobacterium species type is cultured anaerobically in a suitable culture medium, for example according to the conditions described in US 4,464,362 and EP 43,128. When the stationary phase of development is reached, the culture medium can be inactivated by pasteurization, for example at a temperature of 60 to 65 ^° C. for 30 minutes. The microorganisms are then collected by a conventional separation technique, for example filtration. membrane, centrifuged and resuspended in sterile physiological NaCl solution.

The lysate can be obtained by ultrasonic disruption of such a medium to release cytoplasmic fractions, cell wall fragments and metabolism products. Then all components in their natural distribution are then stabilized in a weakly acidic aqueous solution.

Thus, a concentration of about 0.1 to 50%, in particular from 1 to 20% and in particular about 5% by weight of active material (s) relative to the total weight of the lysate, is generally obtained. The lysate can be implemented in various forms, in the form of a solution or in a powder form.

The microorganism belonging to the genus Bifidobacterium species is more particularly chosen from the species: Bifidobacterium longum Bifidobacterium bifidum, Bifidobacterium breva, Bifidobacterium animalis, Bifidobacterium lactis, Bifidobacterium infantis, Bifidobacterium adolescentis or Bifidobacterium pseudocatenulatum, and mixtures thereof.

The species Bifidobacterium longum is particularly suitable for the invention.

For the purposes of the invention, the term "fraction" refers more particularly to a fragment of said microorganism having an efficacy for the treatment of dry epidemics by analogy with said whole microorganism.

The product sold under the name Repair Complex CLR ^® by the company K. RICHTER GmbH and that is formed of an inactivated lysate of the species Bifidobacterium longum falls within the scope of the invention.

The active forming the lysate belonging to the genus Bifidobacterium species can be formulated in a proportion of at least 0.0001% (expressed in dry weight), in particular in a proportion of 0.001 to 20% and more particularly in a proportion of 0.001 to 2%. by weight of dry matter relative to the total weight of the support or of the composition containing it.

According to a variant of the invention, this lysate is used in combination with another microorganism. Thus, the compositions according to the invention may advantageously also contain at least one ancillary microorganism, in particular of the probiotic type and / or one of its fractions and / or one of its metabolites. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "probiotic microorganism" means a living microorganism which, when consumed in an adequate quantity, has a positive effect on the health of its host. and Nutritional Properties of Probiotic in Food Including Powder MiIk with Lactacidal Acid Bacteria, October 6, 2001, and which may in particular improve intestinal microbial balance.

These microorganisms that are suitable for the invention may be chosen especially from ascomycetes such as Saccharomyces, Yarrowia, Kluyveromyces, Torulaspora, Schizosaccharomyces pombe, Debaromyces, Candida, Pichia, Aspergillus and Penicillium, bacteria of the genus Bacteroides, Fusobacterium, Melissococcus, Propionibacterium, Enterococcus. , Lactococcus, Staphylococcus, Peptostrepococcus, Bacillus, Pediococcus, Micrococcus, Leuconostoc, Weisella, Aerococcus, Oenococcus and Lactobacillus and their mixtures.

Ascomycetes which are particularly suitable for the present invention, mention may in particular be made of Yarrowia lipolitica and Kluyveromyces lactis, as well as

Saccharomyces cereviseae, Torulaspora, Schizosaccharamyces pombe, Candida and Pichia.

Specific examples of probiotic microorganisms are Lactobacillus acidophilus, Lactobacillus alimentarius, Lactobacillus curvatus, Lactobacillus delbruckii subsp. Lactis, Lactobacillus gasseri, Lactobacillus johnsonii, Lactobacillus reuteri, Lactobacillus paracasei, Lactobacillus rhamnosus (Lactobacillus GG), Lactobacillus sake, Lactococcus lactis, Streptococcus thermophilus, Staphylococcus carnosus, and Staphylococcus xylosus and mixtures thereof.

More particularly, it is probiotic microorganisms from the group of lactic acid bacteria, such as Lactobacillus. As an illustration of these lactic acid bacteria, mention may be made more particularly of Lactobacillus johnsonii,

Lactobacillus paracasei, Lactobacillus reuteri, Lactobacillus rhamnosus and mixtures thereof.

For the purposes of the invention, the term metabolite refers to any substance derived from the metabolism of the microorganisms considered according to the invention and also having an efficacy for the treatment of dry epidemics. The accessory microorganism may or may not be of the same species as that forming the lysate. However, when it is of the same species, it is then present in a form other than a lysate, for example in a living form.

The most suitable species are Lactobacillus johnsonii, including in particular the strain deposited according to the Budapest Treaty with the Institut Pasteur (28 rue du Docteur Roux, F-75024 Paris cedex 15) under the following designation CNCM I-1225.

In general, the compositions for topical application according to the invention generally comprise from 0.0001 to 30%, in particular from 0.001 to 15% and more particularly from 0.1 to 10%, in one or more microorganisms, especially probiotics. , appendices.

This or these microorganism (s) can be included in the compositions according to the invention in a living form, semi-active or inactivated, dead.

In the case where the microorganisms are formulated in a composition in a live form, the amount of living micro-organisms may vary October ³ to October ¹⁵ cfu / g, in particular October ⁵ to October ¹⁵ cfu / g and more particularly of 10 ⁷ at 10 ¹² cfu / g of microorganisms per gram of composition.

In the particular case where the microorganism (s) is (are) formulated in compositions to be administered orally, the concentration of microorganism (s) including probiotic (s) can be adjusted to correspond to doses

(expressed in microorganism equivalent) ranging from 5.10 ⁵ to 10 ¹³ cfu / day and in particular from 10 ⁷ to 10 ¹ cfu / day.

As indicated above, it may also be included as fractions of cellular components. The microorganism (s), metabolite (s) or fraction (s) can also be introduced in the form of a powder, a liquid or a culture supernatant. or one of its fractions, diluted or not, or concentrated or not.

As stated above, the compositions according to the invention may contain, in addition to the lysate according to the present invention, at least one anti-pollution agent. By the term "anti-pollution agent" is meant especially any compound capable of trapping ozone, the mono- or polycyclic aromatic compounds such as benzopyrene and / or heavy metals such as cobalt, mercury, cadmium and / or nickel.

As ozone-trapping agents that can be used in the composition according to the invention, mention may be made in particular; phenols and polyphenols, in particular tannins, ellagic acid and tannic acid; epigallocatechin and natural extracts containing it; olive leaf extracts; tea extracts, especially green tea; anthocyanins; rosemary extracts; phenolic acids, in particular chorogenic acid; stilbenes, in particular resveratrol; sulfur-containing amino acid derivatives, in particular S-carboxymethylcysteine; ergothioneine; N-acetylcysteine; chelating agents such as N, N'-bis- (3,4,5-trimethoxybenzyl) ethylenediamine or a salt thereof, metal complexes or esters; carotenoids such as crocetin; and various raw materials such as the mixture of arginine, histidine ribonucleate, mannitol, adenosinetriphosphate, pyridoxine, phenylalanine, tyrosine and hydrolysis RNA marketed by S erobio logical laboratories under the trade name CPP LS 2633-12F®, the hydroso fraction a fad of corn marketed by the company SOLABIA under the trade name Phytovityl®, the mixture of fumitory extract and lemon extract marketed under the name Unicotrozon C-49® by the company Induchem, and the mixture of ginseng extracts , apple, peach, wheat and barley sold by the company PROVITAL under the trade name Pronalen Bioprotect ^{® '}

As scavengers for mono- or polycyclic aromatic compounds that can be used in the composition according to the invention, mention may be made in particular of tannins such as ellagic acid; indole derivatives, in particular indol-3-carbinol; tea extracts especially green tea, extracts of water hyacinth or Eichhornia crassipes; and water-soluble fraction of corn sold by Solabia under the trade name Phytovityl ^®.

Ellagic acid and its derivatives, in particular as described in patent EP 1 282 345, turn out to be particularly interesting.

The cosmetic compositions used in the invention may advantageously contain from 0.001% to 10%, preferably from 0.01% to 5% by weight, of ellagic acid, of its salts, of its metal complexes, of its mono- or poly-ethers, mono- or poly-acyls and its carbonate or carbamate derivatives, derived from hydroxyl groups, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Among the above-mentioned anti-pollution agents, it is also more particularly possible to consider anthocyanins and / or its derivatives, compounds containing a thio-ether function, sufloxides or sulphone, ergothionine and / or its derivatives, heavy metal chelating agents as for example the derivatives of N, N'-dibenzyl ethylene diamine N, N'-diacetic acid, antioxidants, plant cell extracts of the Pontederiaceae family.

According to one variant of the invention, the lysate according to the invention can be used in a topical composition with at least one irritating agent.

Among these compounds, mention may in particular be made of cosmetic compounds or active agents, dermatological compounds or active agents, perfumes and in particular alcoholic perfuming solutions, and mixtures thereof.

More particularly, as dermatological or cosmetic active agents, mention may be made of certain desquamating agents.

Among these desquamating agents the following are likely to cause irritation of the skin: saturated monocarboxylic acids (acetic acid) and unsaturated, saturated and unsaturated dicarboxylic acids, saturated and unsaturated tricarboxylic acids; α-hydroxy acids and β-hydroxy acids of monocarboxylic acids; the α-hydroxy acids and β-hydroxy acids of the dicarboxylic acids; α-hydroxy acids and β-hydroxy acids, tricarboxylic acids, ketoacids, α-ketoacids, β-keto acids of polycarboxylic acids, polyhydroxy monocarboxylic acids, polyhydroxybicarboxylic acids and polyhydroxy tricarboxylic acids. Particularly among α-hydroxy acids or their esters, mention may be made of: glycolic, dioecious acids such as octadecene dioic acid or Arlatone dioc DCA sold by Uniqema, citric, lactic, tartaric, malic or mandelic, their esters such as tartrate, dialkyl (C12 / C13) or Cosmacol ETI, branched C12-13 tri-alcohols citrate or Cosmacol ECI marketed by the company SASOL. Among the β-hydroxy acids, mention may be made of: salicylic acid and its derivatives

(including n-octanoyl-5-salicylic acid). Other desquamating agents that may be mentioned include: pyruvic acid, gluconic acid, glucuronic acid, oxalic acid, malonic acid, succinic acid, acetic acid, gentisic acid, cinnamic acid, azelaic acid; phenol; resorcinol; urea and its derivatives, hydroxyethyl urea or hydrovance® from NATIONAL STARCH; oligofucoses; jasmonic acid and its derivatives; trichloroacetic acid; Saphora japonica extract and Resveratrol.

Among desquamating agents, those capable of acting on the enzymes involved in the desquamation or degradation of corneodesmosomes may also be capable of causing skin irritation.

Among these, mention may in particular be made of chelating agents for mineral salts such as EDTA; N-acyl-N, N ', N'-ethylene diaminetriacetic acid; aminosulphonyl compounds and in particular (N-2-hydroxyethylpiperazine-N-2-ethane) sulfonic acid (HEPES); derivatives of 2-oxothiazolidine-4-carboxylic acid

(procysteine); derivatives of alpha amino acids of the glycine type (as described in

EP 0 852 949, as well as the sodium methyl glycine diacetate marketed by BASF under the trade name TRILON M ^® ); honey ; sugar derivatives such as O-octanoyl-6-D-maltose, O-linoleyl-6-D-glucose and N-acetyl glucosamine

Retinoids are also compounds that can cause skin irritation. For example, retinol and its esters, retinal, retinoic acid and its derivatives such as those described in documents FR-A-2,570,377, EP-A-199,636 and EP-A-325 may be mentioned among them. 540, EP-A-402072, and adapalene.

Salts and derivatives, such as cis or trans forms, racemic mixtures, dextrorotatory or levogenic forms of the compounds mentioned above are also considered as compounds capable of causing irritation of the skin.

Other dermatological or cosmetic active agents that may cause a skin irritation-type side effect are also mentioned below:

urea and these derivatives, such as NATIONAL STARCH's hydroxyethyl urea or hydrovance®,

- vitamin D and its derivatives such as vitamin D3, vitamin D2, calcitriol, calcipotriol, tacalcitol, 24,25-diOH vitamin D3, 1-OH vitamin D2 and 1,24-diOH vitamin D2 ; vitamin B9 and its derivatives,

peroxides such as benzoyl peroxide, hydrogen peroxide, fall arrest systems such as minoxidil and its derivatives, such as aminexyl,

dyes and hair dyes such as aminophenols and their derivatives such as para-phenylene diamine (p-PDA), N-phenyl p-PDA, toluene 2,5-diamine sulphate, meta-phenylene diamine (m -PDA), toluene 3,4-diamine and ortho-phenylene diamine (o-PDA),

antiperspirants such as aluminum salts, such as aluminum hydroxychloride,

the active substances of permeants such as thioglycolates, ammonia,

thioglycolate and its salts, phenoxyethanol,

1,2-pentanediol,

- perfuming alcoholic solutions (perfumes, eau de toilette, aftershave, deodorants)

anthralins (dioxanthranol), anthranoids (for example those described in EP-A-319028),

lithium salts,

depigmenting agents (eg hydroquinone, vitamin C at high concentration, kojic acid),

- certain slimming active agents with heating effect, - nicotinates and their derivatives,

capsaicin,

- the active anti-lice (pyrethrin),

antiproliferatives such as 5-fluoro uracil or methotrexate,

antiviral agents, antiparasitics,

- antifungals,

- antipruritic,

- the antiseborrheic,

- certain sunscreens, - propigmentants such as psoralenes and methylangecilines, and

- their mixtures. According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the compound likely to cause secondary skin irritation is selected from retinoids, α-hydroxy acids, β-hydroxy acids, saturated and unsaturated dicarboxylic acids such as octadecene dioic acid or Arlatone DIOC DCA sold by the company Uniqema, anionic, cationic or amphoteric surfactants, n-octanoyl 5-salicylic acid, antiperspirant active agents such as aluminum salts, acid (N-2 hydroxyethylpiperazine-N-2-ethane) sulfonic acid (HEPES) and cinnamic acid.

The compound capable of causing skin irritation may be present in a composition according to the present invention in an amount sufficient to cause a skin irritation reaction. By way of example, it may be present in a content ranging from 0.0001% to 70% by weight, preferably from 0.01% to 50% by weight and better still from 0.1% to 30% by weight relative to the weight. total of the composition.

The compositions according to the invention may be in any of the galenical forms normally available for the chosen mode of administration.

The support may be of a different nature depending on the type of composition considered.

As regards more particularly the compositions intended for topical external administration, that is to say on the skin, they may be aqueous, hydroalcoholic or oily solutions, dispersions of the type of solutions or dispersions of the type lotion or serum, emulsions of liquid or semi-liquid consistency of the milk type, obtained by dispersion of a fatty phase in an aqueous phase (O / W) or conversely (W / O) or suspensions or emulsions, of the type cream, aqueous or anhydrous gel, microemulsions, microcapsules, microparticles, or vesicular dispersions of ionic and / or nonionic type. These compositions are prepared according to the usual methods.

These compositions may in particular constitute creams for cleaning, protection, treatment or care for the face, for the hands, for the feet, for large anatomical folds or for the body, (for example, day creams, night creams). make-up creams, foundation creams, sunscreen creams), make-up products such as fluid foundations, make-up removing milks, protective or skincare body milks, after-sun milks, lotions, gels or mousses for the care skin, such as cleaning or disinfecting lotions, sunscreen lotions, bathing compositions, aftershave gels or lotions.

They can also be used for the scalp in the form of solutions, creams, gels, emulsions, foams or in the form of aerosol compositions also containing a propellant under pressure.

The compositions according to the invention may also consist of solid preparations constituting soaps or cleaning bars.

When the composition of the invention is an emulsion, the proportion of the fatty phase can range from 5 to 80% by weight, and preferably from 5 to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The oils, emulsifiers and coemulsifiers used in the composition in emulsion form are chosen from those conventionally used in the cosmetics and / or dermatological field.

The emulsifier and the coemulsifier may be present in the composition in a proportion ranging from 0.3 to 30% by weight, and preferably from 0.5 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

When the composition of the invention is a solution or an oily gel, the fatty phase may represent more than 90% of the total weight of the composition.

In known manner, the dosage forms dedicated to topical administration may also contain adjuvants which are usual in the cosmetic, pharmaceutical and / or dermatological field, such as hydrophilic or lipophilic gelling agents, hydrophilic or lipophilic active agents, preservatives, antioxidants, solvents, perfumes, fillers, filters, bactericides, odor absorbers and dyestuffs. The amounts of these various adjuvants are those conventionally used in the field under consideration, and for example from 0.01 to 20% of the total weight of the composition. These adjuvants, depending on their nature, can be introduced into the fatty phase and / or into the aqueous phase.

Fats which can be used in the invention include mineral oils such as, for example, hydrogenated polyisobutene and liquid petroleum jelly, vegetable oils such as, for example, a liquid fraction of shea butter, sunflower oil and almonds. apricot, animal oils such as perhydrosqualene, synthetic oils including Purcellin oil, isopropyl myristate and ethyl hexyl palmitate, unsaturated fatty acids and fluorinated oils such as perfluoropolyethers. It is also possible to use fatty alcohols, fatty acids such as stearic acid and, for example, waxes such as paraffin, carnauba and beeswax. It is also possible to use silicone compounds such as silicone oils and, for example, cyclomethicone and dimethicone, waxes, resins and silicone gums.

As emulsifiers used in the invention there may be mentioned for example glycerol stearate, polysorbate 60, the mixture of cetylstearyl alcohol / oxyethylenated cetylstearyl alcohol with 33 moles of ethylene oxide sold under the name Sinnowax AO ^® by the company Henkel , the mixture of PEG-6 / PEG-32 / glycol stearate sold under the name Tefose ^® 63 by Gattefosse, PPG-3 myristyl ether, silicone emulsifiers such as cetyl dimethicone copolyol and sorbitan monostearate or tristearate, PEG-40 stearate, oxyethylenated sorbitan monostearate (20OE).

As solvents that can be used in the invention, mention may be made of lower alcohols, in particular ethanol and isopropanol, and propylene glycol.

The composition of the invention may also advantageously contain a thermal and / or mineral water, in particular chosen from Vittel water, the waters of the Vichy basin and Roche Posay water.

As hydrophilic gelling agents, mention may be made of carboxylic polymers such as carbomer, acrylic copolymers such as copolymers of acrylates / alkyl acrylates, polyacrylamides and especially the polyacrylamide mixture, C13-14-Isoparaffme and Laureth-7 sold under the name Sepigel 305 ^® by the company SEPPIC, polysaccharides such as cellulose derivatives such as hydroxyalkylcelluloses, and in particular hydroxypropylcellulose and hydroxyethylcellulose, natural gums such as guar, locust bean and xanthan and clays.

As lipophilic gelling agents, mention may be made of modified clays such as bentones, metal salts of fatty acids such as aluminum stearates and hydrophobic silica, or else ethylcellulose and polyethylene. In the case of using a combination according to the invention orally, the use of an ingestible support is preferred. Examples of suitable food or pharmaceutical carriers are milk, yoghurt, cheese, fermented milk, fermented milk products, ice cream, fermented cereal products, formulas for children and infants, food products confectionery, chocolate, cereals, especially pet food, tablets, capsules or tablets, oral supplements in dry form and oral supplements in liquid form.

For ingestion, many embodiments of oral compositions and in particular dietary supplements are possible. Their formulation is carried out by the usual methods for producing dragees, capsules, gels, emulsions, tablets, capsules. In particular, the active (s) according to the invention can be incorporated into any other form of food supplements or fortified foods, for example food bars, or compacted powders or not. The powders can be diluted with water, in soda, soy products or derivatives, or incorporated into food bars. According to a particular embodiment, the accessory microorganisms may be formulated within compositions in an encapsulated form so as to significantly improve their survival time. In such a case, the presence of a capsule may in particular delay or prevent the degradation of the microorganism in the gastrointestinal tract.

Of course, the topical or oral compositions according to the invention may furthermore contain several other active ingredients.

As active agents that may be mentioned include vitamins A, B3, B5, B6, B8, C, D, E, or PP, curcuminoids, carotenoids, polyphenol and mineral compounds, sugars, amino acids catechins, OPCs, sulfur amino acids and polyunsaturated fatty acids 3 and 6.

In particular, it is possible to use an antioxidant complex comprising vitamins C and E, and at least one carotenoid, in particular a carotenoid chosen from β-carotene, lycopene, astaxanthin, zeaxanthin and lutein, flavonoids such as catechins, proanthocyanidins, anthocyanins, ubiquinones, coffee extracts containing polyphenols and / or diterpenes, chicory extracts, ginkgo biloba extracts, proanthocyanidin-rich grape extracts, chili extracts, soy extracts, other sources of flavonoids with antioxidant properties, fatty acids, prebiotics, taurine, resveratrol, amino acids of selenium, glutathione precursors.

In the topical dosage forms, proteins or protein hydrolysates, amino acids, polyols, especially C ₂ -C ₁₀ polyols such as glycerol, sorbitol, butylene glycol and polyethylene glycol, urea may be used more particularly as hydrophilic active agents. , allantoin, sugars and sugar derivatives, water-soluble vitamins, starch, bacterial or plant extracts such as Aloe Vera. With regard to lipophilic active agents, it is possible to use retinol (vitamin A) and its derivatives, tocopherol (vitamin E) and its derivatives, ceramides, essential oils and unsaponifiables (tocotrienol, sesamin, gamma oryzanol, phytosterols, squalens, waxes, terpenes).

As active agents that may be more particularly associated with an effective amount of a lysate of at least one microorganism, of the genus Bifidobacterium species and / or one of its fractions in an oral dosage form, it is also possible to consider all the commonly used ingredients. and / or authorized, especially active agents for the prevention and / or treatment of skin conditions. By way of illustration, mention may be made of vitamins, minerals, essential lipids, trace elements, polyphenols, flavonoids, phytoestrogens, antioxidants such as lipoic acid and coenzyme Q10, carotenoids, prebiotics and proteins. and amino acids, mono- and polysaccharides, amino-sugars, phytosterols and triterpene alcohols of vegetable origin. These are, in particular, vitamins A, C, D, E, PP and of group B. Of the carotenoids, beta-carotene, lycopene, lutein, zeazanthin and astaxanthin are preferably chosen. . The minerals and trace elements particularly used are zinc, calcium, magnesium, copper, iron, iodine, manganese, selenium, chromium (III). Among the polyphenol compounds, polyphenols of grape, tea, olive, cocoa, coffee, apple, blueberry, elderberry, strawberry, cranberry, and onion are also particularly preferred. Preferably, among the phytoestrogens, isoflavones are retained in the free or glycosylated form, such as genistein, daidzein, glycitein or lignans, in particular those of flax and schizandra chinensis. Amino acids or peptides and proteins containing them, such as taurine, threonine, cysteine, tryptophan, methionine. The lipids preferably belong to the group of oils containing mono and polyunsaturated fatty acids such as oleic, linoleic, alpha-linolenic, gamma-linolenic, stearidonic, long-chain omega-3 fatty acids such as EPA and DHA, conjugated fatty acids derived from plants or animals such as CLA (Conjugated Linoleic Acid).

Thus, in particular when the lysate of at least one microorganism of the genus Bifidobacterium species and / or one of its fractions considered according to the invention are intended for oral administration, they can be furthermore associated with at least one active ingredient. selected from lycopene, vitamin C, vitamin E and polyphenol compounds.

The lysate of at least one microorganism of the genus Bifidobacterium species and / or one of its fractions may also be associated with other nutritional active ingredients chosen from: anti-aging nutritional active ingredients, such as food antioxidants, nutrients with properties anti-free radicals and co factors of endogenous antioxidant enzymes, vitamins A, C, E, carotenoids, xantophyls, isoflavones, certain minerals such as zinc, copper, magnesium, selenium, lipoic acid, coenzyme Q10, superoxide dismutase (SOD) or taurine. Anti-aging active ingredients include unsaponifiable fractions extracted from vegetable lipids, aloe vera, native marine collagen or hydrolysis, vegetable or marine oils rich in omega-3 fatty acids, omega-6 fatty acids ( including gamma-linolenic acid), nutritional assets photoprotection such as: antioxidants and antiradicals,: vitamins A, C, E, carotenoids, xantophyls, certain minerals such as zinc, copper, magnesium, selenium, coenzyme Q10, superoxide dismultase (SOD), probiotics, nutritional ingredients with moisturizing or immunomodulatory properties such as polypodium leucotomy extract, oils vegetable or marine products rich in omega-3 fatty acids, omega-6 fatty acids, including gamma-linolenic acid, active ingredients active on the clinical signs of menopause (eg hot flushes, etc.), such as isoflavones, lignans, DHEA, extracts of yam, sage, hops, calcium, magnesium, protein hydrolysates, vegetable or marine oils rich in omega-3 fatty acids, nutritional ingredients used in the field of thinness, such as extracts of green tea, mate, horse chestnut, cola, caffeine, theobromine, synephrine, bromelain, ephedra, citrus aurantium, calcium, hoodia, garcinia, chitosan, plant fibers (cactus, apples, pineapple, ...), fennel, black currant, queen of the meadows, black radish.

The invention also relates to a treatment method, in particular a cosmetic process, for preventing a decrease in and / or reinforcing the barrier function of the skin, and in particular for the care of fragile, frail, aged, irritated and / or irritable skin comprising at least one step of administering a lysate according to the invention. The treatment method of the invention may be implemented in particular by administering, orally and / or topically, at least one lysate of at least one microorganism of the genus Bifidobacterium species and / or one of its fractions according to the invention.

The treatment method of the invention may be implemented in particular by administering the compositions as defined above, according to the usual technique of use of these compositions. For example: applications of creams, gels, serums, lotions, cleansing milks or after-sun compositions on the skin or on dry hair, application of a hair lotion on wet hair or shampoos for this which is topical application. The method according to the invention can thus be implemented by topical administration, for example daily, of the lysate considered according to the invention.

The method according to the invention may comprise a single administration. According to another embodiment, the administration is repeated for example 2 to 3 times daily on a day or more and generally over an extended period of at least 4 weeks, or even 4 to 15 weeks, with one or more if necessary periods of interruption. The use according to the invention may be such that the lysates or compositions defined above are used in a formulation more particularly intended for topical use.

In the following description and examples, unless otherwise indicated, percentages are percentages by weight and ranges of values in the form "between ... and ..." include the specified lower and upper bounds. The ingredients are mixed, before they are shaped, in the order and under conditions easily determined by those skilled in the art. The following examples are presented by way of illustration and not limitation of the field of the invention.

EXAMPLE 1

PROTECTIVE COMPOSITION Quantity by weight

Bifidobacterium Longum Lysate * 5.00% **

Preservatives 1.35% Sodium citrate 0.035%

PEG-40 1.25% Pentaerythrityl tetraethylhexanoate 4.00%

Glycerin 7,00%

Ellagic acid 3.00%

Sorbitan tristearate 0.30%

Prunus oil armeniaca Kermel 2.00% Cetyl alcohol 0.70%

Propylene glycol 2.00%

Triethanolamine 0.40%

Cyclohexasiloxane 2.00%

Carbomer® 0.75% Tocopherol 1.00%

Silica 2.00% Water qs 100% * Repair Complex CLR ^® sold by K.Richter GmbH and corresponding to a formulation containing 5% by weight of active ingredients

** quantity expressed as total product

EXAMPLE 2

PROTECTIVE COMPOSITION

This composition contains antioxidants to protect the skin from damage caused by pollution, and cigarette smoke.

Quantity by weight Bifidobacterium Longum Lysate * 2.00% **

Hydroxypropylcellulose (Klucel H sold by Hercules) 1.00% Antioxidant-vitamin E 2.00%

Isopropanol 40.00%

Conservative 0.30% Water qs 100%

* Repair Complex CLR ^® sold by K.Richter GmbH and corresponding to a formulation containing 5% by weight of active ingredients

** quantity expressed as total product

EXAMPLE 3

PROTECTIVE COMPOSITION

Quantity by weight

Arachidyl behenyl alcohol / arachidylglusoside 3.00%

Isohexadecane 7.00% Sweet almond oil 3.00%

Shea Butter 2.00%

Glycerin 5.00%

Bifidobacterium Longum Lysate * 3.00% **

BHT 0.05% Methyl para-hydroxybenzoate 0.10%

Propyl para-hydroxybenzoate 0.05% Water qs 100% * Repair Complex CLR ^® sold by K.Richter GmbH and corresponding to a formulation containing 5% by weight of active ingredients

** quantity expressed as total product

EXAMPLE 4

PROTECTIVE COMPOSITION

Quantity by weight

Bifidobacterium Longum Lysate * 1.50% **

Glyceryl stearate and PEG 100 stearate 5.00%

Isohexadecane 8.00%

Shea Butter 5.00%

Glycerin 3.00%

Carbopol 981 0,20%

Lubragel ^® 5.00%

Phenoxyethanol 1.00%

Soda qsp pH6

BHT 0.050%

Water qs 100%

* Repair Complex CLR ^® sold by K.Richter GmbH and corresponding to a formulation containing 5% by weight of active ingredients

** quantity expressed as total product

EXAMPLE 5

Evaluation of the resistance of the cutaneous barrier of subjects treated with a Bifidobacterium lysate.

The test product is a Bifidobacterium longum lysate in disintegrated suspension (with ultrasound) in a weakly acidic aqueous medium marketed under the name Repair Complex CLR ^® .

The active ingredient is 5% by weight in this commercialized total lysate. The active ingredient was tested alone in a randomized, double-blind study.

Sixty-six women with dry skin on the legs (clinical score of at least 2 on a defined scale) and skin roughness on the cheeks (score at least 3 on a defined scale), were divided into two groups, placebo (n = 33) (group A), Repair Complex CLR ^® (n = 33) (group B). The treatments were applied topically for 58 days, the active ingredient being formulated at 10% of the formulation tested formula This support is a O / W emulsion demineralized Arlacel / Myrj ^® containing 5% Parleam, 15% cyclopentasiloxane, 3% glycerol and 2% Vaseline.

In the placebo formula, the absence of Repair Complex CLR ^® is compensated by water.

For the analysis of the resistance of the skin barrier, tape-stripping was performed just before the start of treatment and then throughout the study on a regular basis.

This method of attacking the skin barrier by "tape stripping" in humans was described in 1951 by Pinkus H. This method has been widely used as a model of alteration of the stratum corneum. It consists of the repeated application of a strip of dermatological tape on the skin of the inner face of one of the forearm of the subject. The operation is repeated as many times as necessary (repeated tape-strippings). This method is the most reproducible for the study of the reconstruction of the barrier function (in comparison with the delipidation with treatments with acetone), it allows to remove only the layers of the stratum corneum without damage to the live keratinocytes and without causing inflammation.

To carry out the test, a moderate attack was carried out using 25x25mm tape stripping to obtain a value of PIE> 15.

The strips of plaster used were 25mm BLENDERM ™ (3M) hypoallergenic occlusive plasters (Ref: TIPS 104B001.2).

To measure the reconstruction of the barrier function, each individual was stripped on J1, J29, and J57, in order to obtain a moderate aggression characterized by a PIE value> 15g / cm ² / h. The number of strippings needed to obtain a PIE value> 15g / cm ² / h can be interpreted as indicative of the condition of the subject's skin at a given time. The evolution of this parameter over time was compared between the treatment groups. Table 1 below describes, by visit and by treatment group, the average evolution of the number of strippings needed to obtain a PIE>

15g / cm ² / h.

TABLE 1

At day 57 there was a very marked increase in the number of strippings required to obtain a value of> 15 g / cm ² / h in the group treated with the active agent at 10%, the number of strippings in the placebo group remaining stable. The evolution difference between groups A and B is very significant

(hiking factor * visit, Fisher's test, p = 0.0037)

Comparing the necessary number of strippings to achieve an impairment of the barrier function (PIE> 15g / cm ² / h) it is observed that for the subjects treated with the formula containing 10% Repair Complex CLR the number of stripping necessary increases significantly over time and that this increase is significantly different from that required for subjects treated with topical formula containing placebo at day 57 (p = 0.0115). The difference observed between A and B is very significant in terms of evolution between J1 and J57 (p = 0.0044)

All of this results in more strippings required to achieve impaired barrier function for subjects receiving the topical formula containing 10% Repair Complex CLR ^® . The stratum corneum is therefore better structured, more homogeneous and has better resistance to mechanical aggression. The quality of the barrier function of the epidermis is therefore better for subjects treated with the bacterial lysate. Consequently, after 2 months of treatment, the test product causes a significant increase against the placebo of the number of strippings necessary to alter the barrier of the skin, thus demonstrating a significant strengthening of the barrier function.

EXAMPLE 6

Evaluation of the variations and expression of epidermal proteins of subjects treated with a Bifidobacterium lysate.

A study of the evolution of different cutaneous protein markers by proteomics was carried out.

The active ingredient was tested alone in a randomized, double-blind study.

Sixty-six women with dry skin were divided into two groups, placebo (n = 33 group A), Repair Complex CLR ^® (n = 33 group B). The treatments were applied topically for 58 days, the active being formulated at 10% of the tested formulation. This supporting formula is an O / W emulsion demineralized Arlacel / Myrj ^® containing 5% Parleam, 15% cyclopentasiloxane, 3% glycerin and 2% petrolatum.

In the placebo formula, the absence of Repair Complex CLR ^® is compensated by water. Subjects were evaluated on D1, D29, D43, and D57.

A sample is taken at the outer side of the leg at times Jl, J29, J43 and J57 by stripping varnish to take only part of the stratum corneum, a maximum of 4 to 5 layers of stratum corneum.

A 41 μm nylon NYIP Millipore filter cloth (5x5cm) is applied to a pre-defined area of the left leg. Then a transparent varnish of reference 614254 / TD comprising: nitrocellulose 6.86g; isopropanol 2.94g; hypoallergenic alkyl resin 7.35 g; acetyl tributyl citrate 7.7g; ethyl acetate 75.15g; is spread with a brush (15 mm) and allowed to dry for 15 min. The nylon fabric is then recovered using a tweezers tweezers pulling the varnished stripping with a jerk. The varnished strippings are stored at -20 ^° C. flat in plastic bags. These skin samples were then analyzed by proteomics using a technique called "isobaric labeling" to evaluate the expression of different proteins.

This so-called "isobaric labeling" or iTRAQ technique is based on the labeling of tryptic peptides with a series of so-called isobaric reagents, all having a molecular weight of 145 Da, and forming a bond with the primary amines of the amino end. -terminal or side chain of lysine residues.

The labeled peptides are detected by mass spectrometry with the intrinsic mass of the peptide plus 145 Da from the reagent. At the fragmentation stage of the peptide, the contribution of each of the reagents is appreciated by the release of ions (fragments) having different specific masses.

Such a method is more specifically described by Zieske (J. Bot., 2006, 57: 1501) or Wiese et al. (Proteomics, 2007, 7: 340).

The results of the proteomic analysis show that the Bifidobacterium longum lysate stimulates the expression of various proteases involved in the desquamation phenomenon (KLK7, KLK5, Cathepsin L2) and certain proteins involved in the maturation of corneodesmosome whereas other proteins, testifying to the metabolic immaturity of the barrier, have a decreased expression (Bleomycin hydrolase, Enolase 1, TPI, GAPDH). The variation in the expression of these proteins involved in desquamation reflects an improvement in the characteristics of the cutaneous barrier and a reinforcement thereof against any aggression.

EXAMPLE 7 Inhibitory Effect of a Bifidobacterium Lysate on the Release of IL-8 in Response to Irritants

Normal human keratinocytes from the same donor following plastic surgery were used. They were grown in standard or medium medium

Keratinocytes -SFM (Invitrogen Ref No. 17005-034) supplemented with Epidermal growth factor (EGF) 0.25ng / ml, pituitary extract (PE) 25 mg / ml (invitrogen

No. 3700015) and gentamycin (Sigma No. G1397). These keratinocytes were cultured in 96-well plates for 24 hours in standard medium.

The cells were then treated with Repair Complex CLR® (Bifidobacterium sp., 0.4 or 0.8 or 1.2% Lysate), or 10-7 M dexamethasone for 24 h at 37 ° C. % of CO2.

After treatment, inducers of the inflammation (PMA 1 μg / ml or cadmium chloride at 30 μM) were added to the culture medium. In the case of induction of inflammation by UV, the keratinocytes were irradiated with UVA + B (2J / cm ² UVA and 200 mJ / cm ² UVB). After induction of inflammation, the cells were incubated for an additional 24 hours. The experiments were performed triplicate.

The culture supernatant was collected and stored for the determination of secreted IL-8 by keratinocytes using Diaclone's Elipair IL-8 Kit (Cat # 851,530,015). Under the experimental conditions of this test, the amounts of IL-8 secreted by unstimulated keratinocytes are very low (below the detection threshold of the kit used).

Results 1. Kératinocytes stimulated by PMA

The PMA at 1 μg / ml causes stimulation of the release of IL-8 by the keratinocytes.

The prior addition of dexamethasone to 10 ^"7 M inhibits the release of IL-8 (15% inhibition relative PMA alone). The lysate of Bifidobacterium longum tested at 0.4, 0.8 and 1.2% also reduces IL-8 release by PMA-stimulated keratinocytes.

The experimental results obtained are summarized in the table below. Table 1: Effect of Bifidobacterium longum lysate on IL-8 release by normal human keratinocytes stimulated with PMA.

2. Keratinocytes stimulated by cadmium chloride

Cadmium chloride at 30 μM induces an increase in IL-8 release

Treatment with dexamethasone at 10 ^"7 M inhibited this release (56% inhibition).

The lysate of Bifidobacterium longum tested at 0.4, 0.8 and 1.2% also inhibits this secretion. At 0.4% and 1.2% the observed inhibition is very important, bringing the level of IL-8 to that of the unstimulated control.

The experimental results obtained are summarized in the table below.

Table 2:

Effect of Bifidobacterium longum lysate on IL-8 release by normal human keratinocytes stimulated with cadmium chloride.

3. UV-stimulated keratinocytes

Irradiation of keratinocytes by UVs leads to a significant release of IL-8 from keratinocytes.

Treatment with dexamethasone at 10 ^"7 M significantly inhibited the release of IL-8 (69% inhibition).

The lysate of Bifidobacterium longum tested at 1, 2% significantly inhibits the secretion of IL-8.

The experimental results obtained are summarized in the table below.

Table 3:

Effect of Bifidobacterium longum lysate on IL-8 release by normal human keratinocytes stimulated by UVA + B.

Claims

1. Cosmetic use of an effective amount of a lysate of at least one microorganism of the genus Bifidobacterium species and / or a fraction thereof to prevent a decrease in and / or to enhance the cutaneous barrier function.

2. Cosmetic use of an effective amount of a lysate of at least one microorganism of the genus Bifidobacterium species and / or a fraction thereof to enhance the cutaneous barrier function with respect to external aggression.

3. Use according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that said lysate is intended to prevent a decrease in and / or enhance the barrier function of a skin selected from a fragile skin, a weakened skin, an attacked skin, and / or irritated skin.

4. Cosmetic use of an effective amount of a lysate of at least one microorganism of the genus Bifidobacterium species and / or one of its fractions to prevent the manifestation of and / or reduce the undesirable cutaneous signs in fragile skin , weakened, and / or irritated.

5. Cosmetic use of an effective amount of a lysate of at least one microorganism of the genus Bifidobacterium species and / or a fraction thereof for preventing and / or treating cutaneous irritations.

6. Cosmetic use of an effective amount of a lysate of at least one microorganism of the genus Bifidobacterium species and / or a fraction thereof as an agent for preventing and / or treating cutaneous signs of chronological aging.

7. Use according to claim 6 for preventing and / or treating cutaneous signs of aging induced or exacerbated by pollution.

8. Cosmetic use of an effective amount of a lysate of at least one microorganism of the genus Bifidobacterium species and / or one of its fractions as an anti-pollution agent.

9. Use of an effective amount of a lysate of at least one microorganism of the genus Bifidobacterium species and / or a fraction thereof for the preparation of a composition for preventing a decrease in and / or reinforcing the cutaneous barrier function .

10. Use of an effective amount of a lysate of at least one microorganism of the genus Bifidobacterium species and / or a fraction thereof for the preparation of a composition for preventing and / or treating cutaneous irritations.

11. Use of an effective amount of a lysate of at least one microorganism of the genus Bifidobacterium species and / or a fraction thereof for the preparation of a composition for preventing and / or treating cutaneous signs of chronological aging.

12. Use according to any one of the preceding claims wherein the microorganism of the genus Bifidobacterium species is selected from Bifidobacterium longum Bifidobacterium bifidum, Bifidobacterium brief, Bifidobacterium animalis, Bifidobacterium lactis, Bifidobacterium infantis, Bifidobacterium adolescentis or Bifidobacterium pseudocatenulatum, and mixtures thereof.

13. Use according to any one of the preceding claims wherein the microorganism of the genus Bifidobacterium species is Bifidobacterium longum.

14. Use according to any one of the preceding claims wherein said lysate comprises from 0.1 to 50% by weight, in particular from 1 to 20% by weight of active material (s).

15. Cosmetic and / or dermatological composition comprising a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one effective amount of a lysate of at least one microorganism of the genus Bifidobacterium species in combination with at least an effective amount of at least one anti-inflammatory agent -pollution.

The composition of claim 15, wherein the lysate is as defined in claims 12 to 14.

17. The composition of claim 15 or 16, further comprising an ancillary microorganism, including probiotic and / or a fraction thereof.

18. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that it is at least one probiotic microorganism chosen from ascomycetes such as Saccharomyces, Yarrowia, Kluyveromyces, Torulaspora, Schizosaccharomyces pombe, Debaromyces, Candida, Pichia, Aspergillus and Penicillium. , bacteria of the genus Bifidobacterium, Bacteroides, Fusobacterium, Melissococcus, Propionibacterium, Enterococcus, Lactococcus, Staphylococcus, Peptostrepococcus, Bacillus, Pediococcus, Micrococcus, Leuconostoc, Weissella, Aerococcus, Oenococcus, Lactobacillus and their mixtures.

19. Composition according to any one of claims 17 or 18, wherein the subsidiary microorganism is derived from the group of lactic acid bacteria.

20. The composition according to any one of claims 17 to 19, wherein the additional compound is Lactobacillus johnsonii (CNCM 1-1225).

21. A composition according to any one of claims 17 to 20, wherein the probiotic microorganism and / or a fraction thereof and / or one of its metabolites is present in an amount of from 0.0001 to 30%, in particular from 0.001 to 15% and more particularly from 0.1 to 10% by weight of said composition.

22. Composition according to any one of claims 17 to 21, in the form of aqueous solutions, hydroalcoholic or oily, dispersions of the type of solutions or dispersions of the lotion or serum type, emulsions of liquid or semi-liquid consistency of the type. milk, obtained by dispersion of a fatty phase in an aqueous phase (O / W) or conversely (W / O), or suspensions or emulsions of soft, semi-solid or solid consistency of the cream type, of aqueous or anhydrous gel or microemulsions, microcapsules, microparticles, or vesicular dispersions of ionic and / or nonionic type.

23. Cosmetic process for protecting a subject's keratinous substances against the deleterious effects of atmospheric pollutants, comprising at least the administration to said subject of an effective amount of a lysate of at least one microorganism of the genus Bifidobacterium species.

24. A cosmetic process for preventing a decrease in and / or reinforcing the cutaneous barrier function of a subject comprising at least the administration to said subject of an effective amount of a lysate of at least one microorganism of the genus Bifidobacterium species.

25. The method of claim 23 or 24, wherein said microorganism is as defined in any one of claims 12 to 14.