FR2937548A1 - Cosmetic use of a lysate of Bifidobacterium species or one of its fractions for preparing the skin for surface treatment comprising chemical peeling and laser treatments - Google Patents

Abstract

Cosmetic use of a lysate of Bifidobacterium spp.(I) or one of its fractions for preparing the skin for surface treatment comprising chemical peeling and laser treatments, is claimed. An independent claim is included for cosmetic and/or dermatological composition, comprising at least one lysate of at least one microorganism of Bifidobacterium speciesor one of its fractions, in combination with at least one peeling agent, in a support.

Description

The main object of the present invention is to propose a new active ingredient for preparing skins before performing a surface skin treatment, in particular of the chemical peel or laser treatment type. Nowadays, there are many treatments, whether or not they are cosmetic surgery, which make the appearance of human beings more beautiful. These treatments, which are subsequently qualified for aesthetic treatments, can act in a number of ways, for example by removing or hiding certain skin imperfections, refining the silhouette, or even attenuating or eliminating the signs of the skin. aging.

By way of illustration and not limitation of such treatments, mention may in particular be made of chemical peels, laser treatments, filling injections or cosmetic surgery. For obvious reasons, such aesthetic treatments have an action which, although controlled, remains irritative, especially at the level of the surface of the skin. During these treatments, the skin is usually altered. Thus, the peeling, just like the laser treatment, is based on a superficial involvement of the skin. In particular, after such treatment, surface epithelial cells are eliminated. Naturally, the epidermis will react to overcome this cell loss to maintain a constant thickness and especially to maintain an effective skin barrier function. Unexpectedly, the inventors have found that the use of a lysate of microorganisms of the genus Bifidobacterium species is particularly effective in accelerating this phenomenon of epidermal renewal.

Accordingly, according to a first aspect, the subject of the invention is the cosmetic use of an effective amount of a lysate of at least one microorganism of the genus Bifidobacterium species and / or one of its fractions, to prepare the skin for a skin surface treatment chosen from chemical peels and laser treatments. Certainly, probiotic microorganisms have already been proposed for the care of the skin. Thus, the document WO 2006/07922 describes compositions dedicated to the treatment of sensitive skin using, as an active ingredient, a combination of a microorganism Lactobacillus paracasei or casei and a microorganism Bifidobacterium longum or Bifidobacterium lactis. For the same applications, FR 2 872 047 proposes a combination of a microorganism with a divalent mineral cation.

As for FR 2 889 057, it discloses a topical composition, comprising a microorganism in combination with a polyunsaturated fatty acid and / or polyunsaturated fatty acid ester, useful for the treatment of sensitive skin. WO 02/28402 describes the use of probiotic microorganisms to regulate cutaneous hypersensitivity reactions, such as inflammatory and allergic reactions. Finally, WO 03/070260 relates to the use of probiotic microorganisms for purposes of photoprotection of the skin. Consequently, all the applications considered in this prior art proves to be distinct and very different from that considered according to the invention. According to another of its aspects, the present invention aims at the use of an effective amount of at least one lysate of at least one microorganism of the genus Bifidobacterium species and / or one of its fractions for the preparation of a composition for preparing the skin of a subject for surface skin treatment selected from chemical peels and laser treatments. More specifically, the invention is based on the observation by the inventors that a treatment with a lysate of microorganisms according to the invention stimulates the proteins indicating the maturity of SC, and those particularly associated with desquamation, such as proteins. KLK7 (accession number Uniref P49862), DSCla (Q9H4BO1Q94B01), Cathepsin L2 (060911), DSG1 (Q02413), KLK5 (Q94Y337Q94337), and Corneodesmosin (Q15517) and conversely decreases other proteins testifying to the immaturity of the epidermis (Bleomycin hydrolase (Q13867), Enolase 1 (Q53FT9), TPI (Q6FHP9), GAPDH (Q2TSDO)). Accordingly, the invention is also directed to the use of an effective amount of at least one lysate of at least one microorganism of the genus Bifidobacterium species and / or a fraction thereof for the preparation of a composition for regulating the process of cell renewal.

According to another of its aspects, the subject of the invention is a particularly cosmetic process for preparing the skin of a subject for a surface skin treatment chosen from chemical peels and laser treatments comprising at least one step of administration to said skin. subject, at least an effective amount of at least one lysate of a microorganism of the genus Bifidobacterium species and / or a fraction thereof. According to an alternative embodiment, said method further comprises a consecutive step of subjecting the skin of said subject to a cutaneous surface treatment chosen from chemical peels and laser treatments. A use in accordance with the invention may, in addition, comprise the use of at least one effective amount of at least one lysate of at least one microorganism of the genus Bifidobacterium species and / or one of its fractions in association with an effective amount of at least one additional microorganism, including probiotic, distinct from said lysate. Within the meaning of the invention, the distinct expression of said lysate means that it is possible to distinguish within the composition either two different microorganisms or two different forms of the same microorganism. Thus, when the ancillary microorganism is of the genus Bifidobacterium species and corresponds to the same species as that appearing in the lysate required according to the invention, this accessory microorganism is then present in a form other than a lysate.

According to another of its aspects, the present invention aims at a composition, cosmetic and / or dermatological, in particular topical, useful for preparing a skin before performing a cutaneous surface treatment as mentioned above, comprising in a physiologically acceptable carrier, at minus an effective amount of a lysate of at least one microorganism of the genus Bifidobacterium species and / or one of its fractions, in association with an effective amount of at least one desquamating agent, in particular as described below.

Advantageously, the lysate according to the invention is administered topically. As specified below, the compositions containing it are formulated to be compatible with the mode of administration selected. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "effective amount" means an amount sufficient to obtain the expected effect.

Surface Skin Treatments By surface skin treatment chosen from chemical peels and laser treatments, treatments within the meaning of the invention which are capable of manifesting an aggressive nature with regard to the epidermis and in particular capable of provoking skin irritation. The term peeling is the French word francization of root to peel meaning peel. A peeling thus classically denotes a controlled action of irritation of the surface of the skin by a chemical substance or by a physical process.

A peel-like operation may for example consist in applying a chemical substance to the skin in order to cause limited and controlled destruction of the epidermis and the superficial layers of the dermis, in order to improve certain disorders of the cutaneous appearance. In a few years, the range of peels has changed considerably. There can be distinguished: superficial peels which have long been dominated by fruit acids: alpha-hydroxy acids (AHAs) and among them glycolic acid; the peeling with trichloroacetic acid which remains the panacea of the medium peels, and the deep peels made with phenol, in particular for the treatment of deep lesions. The advantage of superficial peels is that they are very easy to use and that they do not lead to any desocialization by their simple consequences, making the continuation of the socio-professional activity compatible. 25 They are adapted to aesthetic procedures: superficial wrinkles and wrinkles, complexion, cutaneous imperfections of the retentive acne. The superficial peel targets the epidermis and is based on a superficial involvement of the skin. It touches the epidermis either partially or in its entirety. It may only concern the stratum corneum (SC) or go as far as the stratum granulosum or the basal layer depending on the type of agent used, its concentration, the number of applications and / or the degreasing of the skin prior.

This type of peel has little effectiveness when applied once. In general, it requires several applications and the complete procedure can take from several weeks to months. In particular, the AHAs, used for the superficial peel, are keratolytic but do not modify the keratin of corneocytes, they alter the membrane of the corneocytes by giving it a sawtooth contour, they cause rupture of the lipidic envelope corneocytes and target corneodesmosomes and desmosomes: they cause desquamation by large plaques. In a peel, they require an acidic pH to have an optimal activity.

Glycolic acid or hydroxyacetic acid is the best known of them. Glycolic acid is the smallest member of AHAs (two-carbon chain), so its size allows it to easily penetrate the stratum corneum. As well as citric acid (citrus), malic acid (green apple), tartaric acid (grape) or lactic acid (milk, red fruits), glycolic acid is present in the state natural.

The properties of glycolic acid are related to the activation of desquamation. It will promote the exfoliation of dead surface cells that is less well-aged to restore the qualities of the skin surface (clarity, brightness, evenness of complexion, softness, smoothing of the skin surface and action on skin imperfections ). In addition, it will help to act against the hyperkeratinization of cutaneous imperfections and thus help to reduce them. The higher the concentration of glycolic acid, the greater the efficiency. Such a peel must be neutralized to avoid too much skin irritation. Neutralization is done with sodium hydroxide or sodium bicarbonate.

In addition to the aforementioned peels that could be described as chemical with regard to the chemicals they implement, has also developed a technology described hereinafter physical peel, involving the implementation of ablative and non-ablative lasers .

The first ablative lasers, made with pulsed or scanned CO2 lasers, have the immediate effect of vaporization (or ablation) of the epidermis and often of the upper part of the dermis. A band of the underlying dermis is generally also the seat of a thermal lesion with denaturation and contraction of collagen. During the healing phase, reepithelization occurs from hair follicles and other appendages in addition to an upper dermal band (collagen remodeling). The latest generation of lasers uses a laser beam transformation system in a multitude of beams spaced apart from one another to produce mutually spaced impacts on the skin, thus maintaining areas of healthy unaltered skin between the affected areas. By laser treatment is understood within the meaning of the invention any treatment for aesthetic purpose using a laser, including the physical peels described above. As a laser treatment, one can also for example also mention laser hair removal; laser angioma treatment; treatment of redness, including erythrosis and rosacea, by laser; the treatment of lentigo, especially actinic, laser; the treatment of laser tattoos; or the treatment of laser wrinkles. The different lasers that can be used for these treatments are not the subject of a detailed description here. As stated above, the inventors have found that the administration, generally topically, of a lysate according to the present invention to a subject having to undergo a peeling treatment as defined above, makes it possible to significantly accelerate and to control the process of cellular renewal of the epidermis. Naturally, the epidermis altered by peeling treatment initiates this process. However, the inventors have found that skin which has been altered on the surface by a peel, but which has been previously treated with a lysate according to the present invention, benefits from an accelerated cellular renewal process. This process is already initiated before the peeling operation. As a result, the renewal is obtained in a shorter time and results in a better maturation of the epidermis which results in the establishment of a more mature and therefore more functional stratum corneum. Thus, from the results of Example 3 below, it appears that a lysate of Bifidobacterium longum stimulates a part of the proteins indicative of SC maturity, and those particularly associated with desquamation (KLK7, DSC1a, Cathepsin L2, Dsgl, KLK5, Corneodesmosin) while some others, testifying to its immaturity, decrease (Bleomycin hydrolase, Enolase 1, TPI, GAPDH).

Microor2anism Lysate (s) As previously stated, the microorganisms of the genus Bifidobacterium species used as active agents according to the invention are used in the form of a lysate. A lysate commonly refers to a material obtained at the end of the destruction or dissolution of biological cells by a phenomenon called cell lysis thus causing the release of the intracellular biological constituents naturally contained in the cells of the microorganism in question. For the purposes of the present invention, the term lysate is used interchangeably to designate the entirety of the lysate obtained by lysis of the microorganism concerned or only a fraction thereof.

The lysate used is therefore formed in all or part of the intracellular biological constituents and constituents of the cell walls and membranes. More specifically, it contains the cellular cytoplasmic fraction containing enzymes such as lactic acid dehydrogenase, phosphatases, phosphoketolases, and transaldolases. By way of illustration, the constituents of the cell walls are in particular peptidoglycan, murein or mucopeptide and teichoic acid and the constituents of cell membranes are composed of glycerophospholipid.

This cell lysis can be accomplished by a variety of technologies, such as, for example, osmotic shock, thermal shock, ultrasound, or mechanical stress such as centrifugation. More particularly, this lysate can be obtained according to the technology described in US Pat. No. 4,464,362 and in particular according to the following protocol. The microorganism of the Bifidobacterium species in question is cultured anaerobically in a suitable culture medium, for example according to the conditions described in documents US 4,464,362 and EP 0 043 128. When the stationary phase of the development is reached, the culture medium can be inactivated by pasteurization, for example at a temperature of 60 to 65 ° C for 30 minutes. The microorganisms are then collected by a conventional separation technique, for example membrane filtration, centrifugation and resuspended in a sterile physiological NaCl solution.

The lysate can be obtained by ultrasonic disintegration of such a medium to release cytoplasmic fractions, cell wall fragments and metabolic products. Then all components in their natural distribution are then stabilized in a weakly acidic aqueous solution. Thus, a lysate is generally obtained having a concentration of the order of from 0.1 to 50%, in particular from 1 to 20% and especially about 5% by weight of active material (s) relative to its weight. total. The lysate can be used in various forms, in the form of a solution or in a powder form. The microorganism belonging to the genus Bifidobacterium species is more particularly selected from the species: Bifidobacterium longum Bifidobacterium bifidum, Bifidobacterium breve, Bifidobacterium animalis, Bifidobacterium lactis, Bifidobacterium infantis, Bifidobacterium adolescentis or Bifidobacterium pseudocatenulatum and mixtures thereof. The species Bifidobacterium longum is particularly suitable for the invention. It may advantageously be the lysate registered under the name INCI: Bifidat ferment Lysate, under the name EINECS: Bifidobacterium longum, under the EINECS No.: No. 306-168-4 and under CAS NO: 96507 -89 to 0. The product sold under the name Repair Complex CLR by the company K. RICHTER GmbH and which is formed from an inactivated lysate of the species Bifidobacterium longum, is within the scope of the invention. The active forming the lysate belonging to the genus Bifidobacterium species can be formulated in a proportion of at least 0.0001% (expressed in dry weight), in particular in a proportion of 0.001 to 20% and more particularly in a proportion of 0.001 to 2%. by weight relative to the total weight of the support or the composition containing it. According to a variant of the invention, this lysate is used in association with another microorganism.

Thus, the uses according to the invention may advantageously also use at least one additional microorganism, especially of the probiotic type and / or one of its fractions. For the purposes of the invention, the term "fraction" refers more particularly to a fragment of said microorganism having an efficiency for the treatment of dry epidermis by analogy with said whole microorganism. For the purposes of the present invention, probiotic microorganism is understood to mean a living microorganism which, when consumed in an adequate quantity, has a positive effect on the health of its host. of Probiotic in Food Including Milk Powder with Live Lactic Acid Bacteria, October 6, 2001, which can in particular improve intestinal microbial balance. These microorganisms that are suitable for the invention may be chosen in particular from ascomycetes such as Saccharomyces, Yarrowia, Kluyveromyces, Torulaspora, Schizosaccharomyces pombe, Debaromyces, Candida, Pichia, Aspergillus and Penicillium, bacteria of the genus Bacteroides, Fusobacterium, Melissococcus, Propionibacterium, Enterococcus. , Lactococcus, Staphylococcus, Peptostrepococcus, Bacillus, Pediococcus, Micrococcus, Leuconostoc, Weissella, Aerococcus, Oenococcus and Lactobacillus and their mixtures. Particularly suitable ascomycetes for the present invention are Yarrowia lipolitica and Kluyveromyces lactis, as well as Saccharomyces cereviseae, Torulaspora, Schizosaccharamyces pombe, Candida and Pichia. Specific examples of probiotic microorganisms are Lactobacillus acidophilus, Lactobacillus alimentarius, Lactobacillus curvatus, Lactobacillus delbruckii subsp. Lactis, Lactobacillus gasseri, Lactobacillus johnsonii, Lactobacillus reuteri, Lactobacillus paracasei, Lactobacillus rhamnosus (Lactobacillus GG), Lactobacillus sake, Lactococcus lactis, Streptococcus thermophilus, Staphylococcus carnosus, and Staphylococcus xylosus and mixtures thereof. More particularly, it is probiotic microorganisms from the group of lactic acid bacteria, such as Lactobacillus. As an illustration of these lactic acid bacteria, there may be mentioned more particularly Lactobacillus johnsonii, Lactobacillus paracasei, Lactobacillus reuteri, Lactobacillus rhamnosus and mixtures thereof.

As stated above, the additional microorganism may or may not be of the same species as that forming the lysate. However, when it is of the same species, it is then present in a form other than a lysate, for example in a living form. The most suitable species are Lactobacillus johnsonii, and in particular the strain deposited according to the Budapest Treaty with the Institut Pasteur (28 rue du Docteur Roux, F-75024 Paris cedex 15) under the following designation CNCM I-1225. In general, the compositions for topical application according to the invention generally comprise from 0.0001 to 30%, in particular from 0.001 to 15% and more particularly from 0.1 to 10%, in one or more microorganisms, in particular probiotics, annexes. This or these microorganism (s) can be included in the compositions according to the invention in a living form, semi-active or inactivated, dead. I1 (s) can also be included as fractions of cellular components. The microorganism (s) or fraction (s) can also be introduced in the form of a powder, a liquid, a culture supernatant or one of its fractions, diluted or not, or concentrated or not. In the case where the microorganisms are formulated in a composition in a living form, the amount of living microorganisms can vary from 103 to 1015 cfu / g, in particular from 105 to 1015 cfu / g and more particularly from 10 'to 1012 cfu / g of microorganisms per gram of composition. In the particular case where the microorganism (s) is (are) formulated in compositions to be administered orally, the concentration of microorganism (s) including probiotic (s) can be adjusted to correspond to doses (expressed in microorganism equivalent) ranging from 5.102 to 1013 cfu / day and in particular from 105 to 1011 cfu / day. According to a particular embodiment, the additional microorganisms considered according to the invention can be formulated within compositions in an encapsulated form so as to significantly improve their survival time. In such a case, the presence of a capsule may in particular delay or prevent the degradation of the microorganism in the gastrointestinal tract.

The compositions according to the invention may be in any of the galenical forms normally available for the chosen mode of administration. The support may be of a different nature depending on the type of composition considered. As regards more particularly the compositions intended for external topical administration, that is to say on the surface of a keratin material such as the skin, these may be aqueous, aqueous-alcoholic or oily solutions, dispersions of the type of solutions or dispersions of the lotion or serum type, emulsions of liquid or semi-liquid consistency of the milk type, suspensions or emulsions, cream type, aqueous or anhydrous gel, microemulsions, microcapsules, microparticles, or vesicular dispersions of ionic and / or nonionic type. These compositions are prepared according to the usual methods. When the composition of the invention is an emulsion, the proportion of the fatty phase can range from 5 to 80% by weight, and preferably from 5 to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The oils, emulsifiers and coemulsifiers used in the composition in emulsion form are chosen from those conventionally used in the cosmetics and / or dermatological field. The emulsifier and the coemulsifier may be present in the composition in a proportion ranging from 0.3 to 30% by weight, and preferably from 0.5 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

When the composition of the invention is a solution or an oily gel, the fatty phase may represent more than 90% of the total weight of the composition. In known manner, the dosage forms dedicated to topical administration may also contain adjuvants which are usual in the cosmetic, pharmaceutical and / or dermatological field, such as hydrophilic or lipophilic gelling agents, hydrophilic or lipophilic active agents, preservatives, antioxidants, solvents, perfumes, fillers, filters, bactericides, odor absorbers and dyestuffs. The amounts of these various adjuvants are those conventionally used in the field under consideration, and for example from 0.01 to 20% of the total weight of the composition. These adjuvants, depending on their nature, can be introduced into the fatty phase and / or into the aqueous phase. Fats which can be used in the invention include mineral oils such as, for example, hydrogenated polyisobutene and liquid petroleum jelly, vegetable oils such as, for example, a liquid fraction of shea butter, sunflower oil and almonds. apricot, animal oils such as perhydrosqualene, synthetic oils including Purcellin oil, isopropyl myristate and ethyl hexyl palmitate, unsaturated fatty acids and fluorinated oils such as perfluoropolyethers. It is also possible to use fatty alcohols, fatty acids such as stearic acid and, for example, waxes such as paraffin, carnauba and beeswax. It is also possible to use silicone compounds such as silicone oils and, for example, cyclomethicone and dimethicone, waxes, resins and silicone gums.

As emulsifiers which can be used, mention may be made, for example, of glycerol stearate, polysorbate 60, the cetylstearyl alcohol / cetylstearyl alcohol mixture oxyethylenated with 33 moles of ethylene oxide sold under the name Sinnowax AO by Henkel, the PEG mixture. -6 / PEG-32 / Glycol Stearate sold under the name Tefose 63 by Gattefosse, PPG-3 myristyl ether, silicone emulsifiers such as cetyldimethicone copolyol and sorbitan mono- or tristearate, PEG-40 stearate oxyethylenated sorbitan monostearate (200E). As usable solvents, mention may be made of lower alcohols, in particular ethanol and isopropanol, and propylene glycol. A composition may also advantageously contain a thermal and / or mineral water, chosen in particular from Vittel water, the waters of the Vichy basin and the Roche Posay water. As hydrophilic gelling agents, mention may be made of carboxylic polymers such as carbomer, acrylic copolymers such as copolymers of acrylates / alkyl acrylates, polyacrylamides and in particular the mixture of polyacrylamide, C13-14-Isoparaffin and Laureth-7 sold under the name Sepigel 305 by the company SEPPIC, polysaccharides such as cellulose derivatives such as hydroxyalkylcelluloses and in particular hydroxypropylcellulose and hydroxyethylcellulose, natural gums such as guar, carob and xanthan and clays. Lipophilic gelling agents include modified clays such as bentones, metal salts of fatty acids such as aluminum stearates and hydrophobic silica, or ethylcellulose and polyethylene.

In the case of oral use, it favors the use of an unmanageable carrier. Examples of suitable food or pharmaceutical carriers are milk, yoghurt, cheese, fermented milks, fermented milk products, ice creams, fermented cereal products, milk-based powders, formulas for children and infants, confectionery-type foods, chocolate, cereals, especially pet food, tablets, capsules or tablets, oral supplements in dry form and oral supplements in liquid form.

For ingestion, many embodiments of oral compositions and in particular dietary supplements are possible. Their formulation is carried out by the usual methods for producing dragees, capsules, gels, emulsions, tablets, capsules. In particular, the lysate according to the invention can be incorporated into any other form of food supplements or enriched foods, for example food bars, or compacted powders or not. The powders can be diluted with water, in soda, dairy products or soy derivatives, or incorporated into food bars. Of course, the topical or oral compositions according to the invention may furthermore contain several other active ingredients. As assets conventionally used, mention may be made of vitamins B3, B5, B6, B8, C, E, or PP, niacin, carotenoids, polyphenols and minerals such as zinc, calcium and magnesium. In particular, it is possible to use an antioxidant complex comprising vitamins C and E, and at least one carotenoid, in particular a carotenoid chosen from (3-carotene, lycopene, astaxanthin, zeaxanthin and lutein, flavonoids such as catechins, hesperidin, proanthocyanidines and anthocyanins, and may also be at least one prebiotic or a mixture of prebiotics, more particularly, these prebiotics may be selected from oligosaccharides, produced from glucose, galactose, xylose, maltose, sucrose, lactose, starch, xylan, hemicellulose, inulin, acacia-type gums for example, or a mixture thereof, More particularly, the oligosaccharide comprises at least one fructose - oligos In particular, this prebiotic may comprise a mixture of fructooligosaccharide and inulin. As stated above, the invention also relates to a composition containing, in addition to a lysate according to the present invention, at least one desquamating agent.

By desquamating agent is meant any compound capable of acting: either on the enzymes involved in the desquamation or degradation of corneodesmosomes, such as glycosidases, stratum corneum chymotryptic enzyme (SCCE) or even other proteases (trypsin, chymotrypsin -like). Mention may in particular be made of chelating agents for mineral salts such as EDTA; N-acyl-N, N ', N'-ethylene diaminetriacetic acid; aminosulfonic compounds and in particular (N-2-hydroxyethylpiperazine-N-2-ethane) sulfonic acid (HEPES); 2-oxothiazolidine-4-carboxylic acid derivatives (procysteine); glycine-type alpha amino acid derivatives (as described in EP 0 852 949, as well as sodium methyl glycine diacetate marketed by BASF under the trade name TRILON M); honey ; sugar derivatives such as O-octanoyl-6-D-maltose, O-linoleyl-6-D-glucose and N-acetyl glucosamine. or directly on desquamation by promoting exfoliation, such as: saturated and unsaturated monocarboxylic acids, saturated and unsaturated dicarboxylic acids, saturated and unsaturated tricarboxylic acids; alpha hydroxy acids and beta hydroxy acids of monocarboxylic acids; alpha hydroxy acids and beta hydroxy acids of dicarboxylic acids; alpha hydroxy acids and beta hydroxy acids of tricarboxylic acids; ketoacids, alpha ketoacids, beta ketoacids of polycarboxylic acids, polyhydroxy monocarboxylic acids, polyhydroxybicarboxylic acids, polyhydroxy tricarboxylic acids; and (3-hydroxyl-2β-entylcyclopentyl) acetic acid. As α-hydroxy acids, there may be mentioned in particular: glycolic, dioecious acids such as octadecene dioic acid or Arlatone dioc DCA sold by Uniqema, citric, lactic, tartaric, malic or mandelic, their esters such as dialkyl tartrate (C12 / C13) or Cosmacol ETI, the citrate of branched C12-C13 tri-alcohols or Cosmacol ECI sold by the company SASOL. Particularly interesting were glycolic acid, citric acid, lactic acid, tartaric acid, malic acid and mandelic acid.

Preferred (3-hydroxy acids that may be mentioned more particularly are salicylic acid and its derivatives, in particular n-octanoyl-5-salicylic acid.

Other exfoliation agents that may be mentioned include: pyruvic acid, gluconic acid, glucuronic acid, oxalic acid, malonic acid, succinic acid, acetic acid, gentisic acid, cinnamic acid, azelaic acid; phenol, resorcinol; urea and its derivatives; oligofucoses as in patent EP 0 218 200; jasmonic acid and its derivatives as in patent applications EP 1 333 022 and EP 1 333 021; trichloroacetic acid; retinoids such as retinol, retinoic acid; adapalene; Saphora japonica extract; resveratrol; as well as their salts and derivatives, such as cis or trans forms, racemic mixtures, dextrorotatory or levogyrous forms of the aforementioned agents. Particularly interesting compositions containing a lysate according to the present invention at least one active promoting desquamation and peeling selected from chelators, jasmonic acid and its derivatives particularly described in EP 1 333 021, the compounds reducing agents, sulphonic derivatives and especially Hepes, amino acids, AHAs and BHAs, particularly glycolic acid and N-octanoyl-5-salicylic acid, certain detergents, sugars and their derivatives, such as fucose, N-acetylglucosamine, C-glycosides as described in WO 02/051828.

A lysate according to the invention can also be used with other actives. According to a variant of the invention, the lysate according to the invention can be used in a topical composition with an active agent with regard to the epidermis 25 especially dry. By way of illustration and not limitation of such active ingredients, mention may be made in particular of moisturizing active agents. Moisturizing active means: - either a compound acting on the barrier function, in order to maintain the hydration of the stratum corneum, or an occlusive compound. There may be mentioned ceramides, compounds based on sphingoids, lecithins, glycosphingolipids, phospholipids, cholesterol and its derivatives, phytosterols (stigmasterol, (3-sitosterol, campesterol), essential fatty acids, 1-2 diacylglycerol 4-chromanone, pentacyclic triterpenes, petrolatum, and lanolin; or a compound directly increasing the water content of the stratum corneum, such as urea and its derivatives, thralose and its derivatives, hyaluronic acid and its derivatives, glycerol, pentanediol, pidolates, serine, xylitol, lactic acid and sodium lactate, glycerol polyacrylate, ectoin and its derivatives, chitosan, oligo- and polysaccharides, cyclic carbonates, N-lauroyl pyrrolidone carboxylic acid, and Na-benzoyl-L-arginine; or a compound activating the sebaceous glands such as steroid derivatives (including DHEA) and vitamin D and its derivatives. He may especially be glycerol, hyaluronic acid, urea and its derivatives. By way of illustration of the urea derivatives, mention may be made more particularly of the hydroxyalkyl urea derivatives and in particular those described in the document FR 2 877 222. With regard to the lipophilic active agents, retinol (vitamin A) and its derivatives may be used. , tocopherol (vitamin E) and its derivatives, ceramides, essential oils and unsaponifiables (tocotrienol, sesamin, gamma oryzanol, phytosterols, squalenes, waxes, terpenes). The abovementioned compounds may represent from 0.001% to 30%, and preferably from 0.01% to 20%, of the total weight of the composition according to the invention. As active agents which may be more particularly associated with the lysate in an oral dosage form, it is also possible to consider all the commonly used and / or authorized ingredients. By way of illustration, mention may be made of vitamins, minerals, essential lipids, trace elements, polyphenols, flavonoids, phytoestrogens, antioxidants such as lipoic acid and coenzyme Q10, carotenoids, prebiotics, proteins and amino acids, mono- and polysaccharides, amino-sugars, phytosterols and triterpene alcohols of vegetable origin. These are, in particular, vitamins A, C, D, E, PP and of group B. Of the carotenoids, beta-carotene, lycopene, lutein, zeazanthine and astaxanthin. The minerals and trace elements particularly used are zinc, calcium, magnesium, copper, iron, iodine, manganese, selenium, chromium (III). Among the polyphenols, polyphenols of grape, tea, olive, cocoa, coffee, apple, blueberry, elderberry, strawberry, cranberry, and onion are also particularly preferred. Preferably, among the phytoestrogens, isoflavones are retained in the free or glycosylated form, such as genistein, daidzein, glycitein or lignans, in particular those of flax and schizandra chinensis. Amino acids or peptides and proteins containing them, such as taurine, threonine, cysteine, tryptophan, methionine. The lipids preferably belong to the group of oils containing monounsaturated and polyunsaturated fatty acids such as oleic, linoleic, alpha-linolenic, gamma-linolenic, stearidonic, omega-3 fatty acids of long-chain fish such as EPA. and DHA, conjugated fatty acids derived from plants or animals such as CLA (Conjugated Linoleic Acid).

The cosmetic treatment method of the invention may be implemented in particular by administering the cosmetic and / or dermatological compositions or combinations as defined above, according to the usual technique of use of these compositions. For example: applications of creams, gels, serums or lotions. In the following description and examples, unless otherwise stated, percentages are percentages by weight and ranges of values in the form between ... and ... include the specified lower and upper bounds. The ingredients are mixed, before they are shaped, in the order and under conditions easily determined by those skilled in the art. The following examples are presented by way of illustration and not limitation of the scope of the invention. Example 1 Face Lotion% by Weight Bifidobacterium longum lysate * 5.00 ** Magnesium gluconate 3.00 Calcium lactate 2.00 Antioxidant 0.05 Isopropanol 40.0 Preservative 0.30 Water qs 100 * It s' is the lysate registered under the name INCI Bifidat ferment Lysate, and implemented in the form of a formulation at 5% by weight of active. ** quantity expressed in total weight Example 2 Gel for the facial treatment Strontium nitrate Lysate of Bifidobacterium longum * Hydroxypropylcellulo se (Klucel H sold by the company HERCULES) Vitamin E Antioxidant Isopropanol Preservative Water * This is the lysate registered under INCI name Bifidat 20 in the form of a formulation at 5% by weight of active. ** quantity expressed in total weight

Example 3 Evaluation of the Stimulation Effect of Bifidobacterium Lysate with Respect to Cell Renewal The test product is a disrupted (ultrasonically) suspended Bifidobacterium longum lysate in a weakly acidic aqueous medium marketed as Repair Complex CLR. The active ingredient was tested alone in a randomized, double-blind study. Sixty-six women with dry skin were divided into two groups, placebo (n = 33 group A), Repair Complex CLR (n = 33 group B). Treatments were applied topically for 58 days, the active ingredient being formulated at 10% wt% 4.00 5.00 **

1.00 2.50 0.05 40.0 0.30 qs 100 Lysate ferment, and implemented the tested formulation. This carrier formula is an Arlacel / myrj demineralized O / W emulsion containing 5% Parleam, 15% cyclopentasiloxane, 3% glycerine and 2% petrolatum. In the placebo formula, the absence of lysate is compensated by water. The subjects were evaluated on D1, D29, D43 and D57. Sampling is performed at the outer side of the leg at times J1, J29, J43 and J57 by stripping varnish to take only part of the stratum corneum, or a maximum of 4 to 5 layers of stratum corneum. To carry out this stripping, a 41 m NY41 Millipore nylon filter cloth is applied to a previously defined area of the left leg. Then a transparent varnish of reference 614254 / T.D. comprising: nitrocellulose 6.86 g; isopropanol 2.94 g; hypoallergenic alkyl resin 7.35 g; acetyl tributyl citrate 7.7 g; ethyl acetate 75.15 g; is spread with a brush (15mm) and allowed to dry for 15 minutes. The nylon fabric is then recovered using a tweezers tweezers pulling the varnished stripping with a jerk. The varnished strippings are kept at 20 ° C flat in plastic bags. These skin samples (stripped stratum corneum stripping) were then analyzed by proteomics to evaluate the expression of different proteins. This technique known as isobaric labeling or iTRAQ is based on the labeling of triptych peptides with a series of reagents, called isobaric because all having a molecular weight of 145 Da, and forming a covalent bond with the primary amines of the amino-terminal end of the side chain of lysine residues. The labeled peptides are detected by mass spectrometry with the intrinsic mass of the + 145 Da peptide, from the reagent. At the fragmentation stage of the peptide, the contribution of each of the reagents is appreciated by the release of ions (fragments) having different specific masses. Such a method is precisely described by Zieske (J. Bot., 2006, 57: 1501) or Wiese et al. (Proteomics, 2007, 7: 340). The results of the differential proteomic analysis show that the lysate of Bifidobacterium longum stimulates a part of the proteins testifying to the maturity of the SC, and those particularly associated with the desquamation (KLK7, DSC1a, Cathepsin L2, Dsg1, KLK5, Corneodesmosin) then that some others testifying to its immaturity logically decrease (Bleomycin hydrolase, Enolase 1, TPI, GAPDH).

Claims (14)

REVENDICATIONS1. Cosmetic use of an effective amount of a lysate of at least one microorganism of the genus Bifidobacterium species and / or a fraction thereof, for preparing the skin for a cutaneous surface treatment selected from chemical peels and laser treatments . 2. Use of an effective amount of at least one lysate of at least one microorganism of the genus Bifidobacterium species and / or a fraction thereof for the preparation of a composition for regulating the cell renewal process. 10 3. Use of an effective amount of at least one lysate of at least one microorganism of the genus Bifidobacterium species and / or a fraction thereof for the preparation of a composition for preparing the skin of a subject for treatment cutaneous surface chosen from chemical peels and laser treatments. 4. Use according to any one of the preceding claims wherein the microorganism of the genus Bifidobacterium species is selected from Bifidobacterium longum Bifidobacterium bifidum, Bifidobacterium breve, Bifidobacterium animalis, Bifidobacterium lattis, Bifidobacterium infantis, Bifidobacterium adolescentis or Bifidobacterium pseudocatenulatum and mixtures thereof. 5. Use according to any one of the preceding claims wherein the microorganism of the genus Bifidobacterium species is Bifidobacterium longum. 6. Use according to any one of the preceding claims wherein said lysate comprises from 0.1 to 50% by weight, in particular from 1 to 20% by weight of active material (s). 7. Use according to any one of the preceding claims wherein said lysate is administered topically or orally. 8. Use according to any one of the preceding claims wherein said lysate is used in combination with at least an effective amount of at least one additional microorganism, and / or a fraction thereof, separate from said lysate. 9. Use according to the preceding claim, characterized in that said microorganism is selected from ascomycetes such as Saccharomyces, Yarrowia, Kluyveromyces, Torulaspora, Schizosaccharomyces pombe, Debaromyces, Candida, Pichia, Aspergillus and Penicillium, bacteria of the genus Bifidobacterium, Bacteroides , Fusobacterium, Melissococcus, Propionibacterium, Enterococcus, Lactococcus, Staphylococcus, Peptostrepococcus, Bacillus, Pediococcus, Micrococcus, Leuconostoc, Weissella, Aerococcus, Oenococcus, Lactobacillus, and mixtures thereof. 10. Use according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the lysate is used in a composition in the form of an aqueous solution, hydroalcoholic or oily, a dispersion type solution or dispersion lotion type or serum, of a liquid or semi-liquid consistency emulsion of the milk type, obtained by dispersion of a fatty phase in an aqueous phase (HIE) or conversely (W / O), or of a suspension or emulsion of soft consistency , semi-solid or solid type cream, aqueous or anhydrous gel, or microemulsions, microcapsules, microparticles, or vesicular dispersions of ionic and / or nonionic type. 11. Cosmetic and / or dermatological composition, especially useful for preparing a skin before performing a skin surface treatment chosen from chemical peels and laser treatments comprising in a physiologically acceptable carrier, at least one effective amount of a lysate of at least one microorganism of the genus Bifidobacterium species, and / or a fraction thereof, in combination with an effective amount of at least one desquamating agent. 12. Composition according to the preceding claim wherein said lysate is as defined in claims 4 to 6. 13. Cosmetic process for preparing the skin of a subject for surface skin treatment chosen from chemical peels and laser treatment comprising at least one step of administering to said subject, an effective amount of at least one lysate at least one microorganism of the genus Bifidobacterium species and / or a fraction thereof. 14. The process according to the preceding claim wherein said lysate is as defined in claims 4 to 6.