FR2973237A1 - FRACTIONAL COSMETIC TREATMENT PROCESS USING LASER OR MICRO-NEEDLES - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention relates to a method of cosmetic treatment of the skin, without a therapeutic aim, comprising the following steps: - to carry out a fractional treatment of the skin so as to reduce the barrier function of the skin, - to apply to the area to be treated or treated before, during or after the fractional treatment, an aqueous material comprising a hydrogel and / or biocellulose.

Description

The present invention relates to systems and methods for treating human skin and more particularly, but not exclusively, those for cosmetic purposes. Fractional treatments of the skin have been proposed to reduce the barrier function of the skin and facilitate the action of cosmetic or therapeutic active ingredients.

By "split treatment" is meant a discrete, non-painful, non-invasive treatment that consists of targeting points spaced from each other so as to preserve areas of intact skin between the treated points, which will serve as a reserve of healing for a patient. fast repair step by step from the intact skin areas.

Several types of split treatments exist. It is known to use micro-needles which are arranged in the form of a network and will perforate the upper layers of the skin to create micro-holes facilitating the penetration of assets. Another known technique relies on the use of a laser and an optical system which, for example, separates the ray emitted by a laser into a multitude of relatively thin rays which will constitute as many treatment points at points of impact with the skin, the latter undergoing at each point of impact photo-thermolysis which digs a micro-well facilitating the penetration of assets. Application US 2008/0208179 A1 discloses a fractional laser treatment to reduce the skin barrier function while preserving the ability of the skin to protect the body from infections through the many areas of skin left intact between laser impact zones . Although a fractional treatment is less aggressive than a treatment on a continuous area of skin, some devices may nevertheless cause discomfort during their application.

There is therefore a need to make fractional treatment more comfortable and / or to widen the scope of the assets that can be applied after a split treatment without generating too much discomfort for the person undergoing the treatment. The invention meets this need by a method of treating human skin, in which an aqueous material, such as a hydrogel or biocellulose, is applied to the skin before and / or after the fractional treatment.

According to one of its aspects, the subject of the invention is also a process for the cosmetic treatment of the skin, without a therapeutic aim, comprising the following steps: - carrying out a fractional treatment of the skin so as to reduce its barrier function, applying to the area to be treated, before or during or after the fractional treatment, an aqueous material comprising or consisting of a hydrogel and / or biocellulose. Fractional treatment can treat the epidermis, or the epidermis and the dermis.

Preferably, the material comprises or consists of biocellulose. The fractional treatment can be done using micro-needles or preferably a laser, as detailed below. The subject of the invention is also an assembly comprising the material, in hydrated form or to be extemporaneously hydrated, and at least one composition comprising an active agent to be applied after removal of the material from the skin or used to moisturize the material. The subject of the invention is also a sheet material for treating the skin, comprising a hydrogel and / or biocellulose and at least one active agent intended to exert an action following a fractional treatment of the skin.

The subject of the invention is also an assembly comprising the means making it possible to perform the fractionated treatment, in particular the fractional laser, and at least one composition comprising an active agent to be applied to the treated skin and / or the material to be applied to the skin, comprising a hydrogel and / or biocellulose. In this case, the material to be applied to the skin contains the active ingredient.

Material to be Applied to the Skin For the purposes of the present invention, the term "aqueous material" means a gelled material, cosmetically or physiologically acceptable, having a content greater than 50% by mass of water, at least at the moment when the material is in contact with the skin.

The material may comprise between 10% and 99%, or even between 50% and 99%, or even between 51% and 99%, or even between 70% and 95% by weight of water, at least at the moment when the material is in contact with the skin.

The material provides, thanks to the important presence of water, an immediate soothing freshness effect, which can even be prolonged in time given its physicochemical characteristics, which reduces the discomfort caused by the fractionated treatment, the presence of the material having a beneficial effect on localized heat and discomfort as well as any redness, tingling produced by the split treatment. In addition, the use of the material, especially when it comprises biocellulose, may facilitate the action of one or more active agents applied to the skin, and increase their biological effects in depth, especially by diffusion in the microparticles. Epidermal or even dermal wells transiently generated by the treatment Thanks to the invention, certain active agents can be applied to the skin in concentrations which, in the absence of application of the material, would have caused greater discomfort to the person undergoing the treatment. The invention thus allows without any surgical intervention a deep remodeling and regenerative action and yet, paradoxically, very well supported. The invention also makes it possible to use active ingredients which, for example because of their acidity, would have, in the absence of application of the material also entrained, a greater discomfort for the patient. Preferably, the material to be applied to the skin is preformed before application to the skin, that is to say has sufficient mechanical cohesion to be handled in one piece to be applied to the skin. This avoids having to manually spread a composition on the skin at a time when it may have increased sensitivity due to split treatment. The material to be applied to the skin can be conditioned in the hydrated state or be hydrated extemporaneously. The water or composition for hydrating the material may be provided to the user with the material in the dehydrated state, for example in the same package. The use of a material comprising biocellulose makes it possible to benefit from particularly advantageous effects, in particular to reduce the level of redness and stinging induced by treatment with a fractional laser.

Biocellulose Biocellulose is a material obtained by aerobic fermentation in a nutritive aqueous medium of bacteria of the genus Acetobacter (also called Gluconacetobacter) (Z. Gromet-Elhanan, S. Hestrin, Synthesis of cellulose by Acetobacter Xylinum, J.

Bacteriol. 85, 284-292, 1963; US 5,962,277). The main species used is Acetobacter xylinum, although others may also produce biocellulose, for example Acetobacter pasteurianus. The culture conditions of this bacterium for producing biocellulose are known, in particular from the publication Factors affecting the yield and properties of bacterial cellulose, A. Krystynowicz et al., J. Indus. Microbiol. Biotech. 29, 189-195, 2002. JP 70393886 discloses a method of making biocellulose. Biocellulose is particularly known for its healing properties. Thus, the application US 2005/0019380 describes a dressing, especially for aesthetic purposes, comprising biocellulose. Application FR 2 936 714 describes the use of a biocellulose patch comprising an energy source, in particular in the form of LEDs. Neither the use of fractional laser nor the use of microneedles are described in this document. The biocellulose may be used in pure form or in a form combined with other types of fibers, for example fibers of natural origin, for example fibers from maize, hemp, flax, cotton, jute, kenaf, raffia, ramie, Paja Toquilla, sisal, rush, alfa, phormium, coconut, wool, silk, soya, abaca, kumazasa, persimmon, kapok, burdock, cereal or bamboo.

The biocellulose fibers may be free or bonded together and / or bound to other fibers. The biocellulose may be used as a sheet, obtained for example by compacting a culture of biocellulose fibers after rinsing them. The biocompatibility of biocellulose with the skin is ensured by a sterile manufacturing process. Preferably, the sterile biocellulose does not contain a preservative. Thus, it is advantageously packaged in sterile form, in particular in a sealed case hermetically.

Hydrogel The hydrogel may comprise a superabsorbent material. By "superabsorbent material" is meant a material having a very high capacity for absorbing a liquid, and in particular water. In particular, it may have the capacity to absorb at least 15 times, or even 20 or 50 times its weight in water, for example of the order of 25 to 30 times. The application FR 2 876 587 describes a method for determining the absorption capacity of the superabsorbent material. The superabsorbent material may be chosen from cellulose derivatives, alginates and their derivatives, in particular their derivatives such as propylene glycol alginate, or their salts, such as sodium alginate, calcium alginate or derivatives thereof. polyacrylic or polymethacrylic acid, polyacrylamide derivatives, polyvinylpyrrolidone derivatives, polyvinyl ether derivatives, and mixtures thereof, among others. The superabsorbent material may in particular be chosen from chemically modified cellulose derivatives. It may be, for example, chosen from carboxymethylcellulose, sodium carboxymethylcellulose, carboxymethylhydroxyethylcellulose, carboxyethylcellulose, hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxyethylethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, hydroxypropylmethylcellulose, methylcellulose, sodium methylcellulose and microcrystalline cellulose. , sodium cellulose sulfate and mixtures thereof. It may also be chosen from alkylated celluloses. These polymers are obtained by grafting an alkyl residue on one or more hydroxy groups of the cellulosic polymer to form the hydroxyalkylated derivative. These alkyl radicals may be chosen from stearyl, isostearyl, lauryl, myristyl, cetyl, isocetyl, cocoyl, palmityl, oleyl, linonyl, ricinoleyl and behenyl groups, and mixtures thereof. These hydroxyalkylated cellulosic derivatives may be further chemically modified by, for example, a carboxylic residue. It may also be chosen from natural polymeric derivatives such as gelatin and glucomannan and galactomannan polysaccharides extracted from seeds, plant fibers, fruits, seaweed, starch, plant resins, or even microbial origin. It may be chosen, for example, from agarose gum, guar gum, gum tragacanth, carrageenan gum, konjac gum, beau gum locust, gellan gum, xanthan gum, and mixtures thereof. . In an exemplary implementation of the invention, the superabsorbent material is a chemically modified cellulose derivative, in particular carboxymethylcellulose.

In an exemplary embodiment, the superabsorbent material comprises fibers. These fibers may be woven or bonded together other than by weaving, for example by a bonding process used for the manufacture of nonwovens. The superabsorbent material fibers may constitute at least 80% by weight of the sheet material before impregnation with the liquid, or more. For example, they may constitute at least 90% or even at least 99% by weight of the sheet material before impregnation with the liquid. The sheet material may further consist essentially of such fibers. A high fiber content may facilitate obtaining a visually appealing effect at the time of use, the sheet material changing from an opaque state to a translucent or transparent state.

In a variant, the hydrogel may comprise polyglutamic acid (Bio PGA solution from Ishumaru Pharcos). Presentation The material to be applied to the skin is preferably in the form of sheet material at the time of use, in particular patch or mask.

The thickness of the sheet in the hydrated state is for example between 0.1 mm and 5 mm. When we want to prolong the skin heat-absorbing effect, we can increase its thickness. The sheet, in the form of mask or patch, can be refrigerated before application to the skin.

The mask or patch may consist exclusively of hydrogel or biocellulose. In a variant, the sheet material comprises a support, for example a textile web or a thermoplastic foam, containing the aqueous material or consolidating it.

The sheet material preferably comprises entangled microfibrils, preferably biocellulose, the weight of which is between 1% and 10% of the total weight of the hydrated sheet material, ready for use.

The sheet material may be preformed or pre-cut, for example delivered to the user in the form of a face with openings for the eyes, nose and / or mouth. The sheet material may be provided to the user in the wet state, impregnated or not with a composition containing an active, the user having to apply it to the region to be treated. Alternatively, the sheet material may need to be impregnated at the time of use by pouring water or a composition thereon, or by depositing the composition on a skin region, and then applying the sheet material thereon of skin.

The sheet material can be sterilely packaged in one or more units. The sheet material can in particular be packaged in individual bags. The sheet material to be applied to the skin may be proposed to the user with the means for carrying out the fractional treatment, in particular with the fractional laser. Application of the material Preferably, the application of the material takes place at least after the fractional treatment, in particular by fractional laser, and preferably takes place within a time interval after the end of the fractional treatment of less than or equal to 30 minutes, or even less, or equal to 15 minutes. By "end of split treatment" it is necessary to understand the end of a session of the treatment, knowing that if there are several sessions, these can be renewed at intervals of time of several days, for example a week or fifteen days, or even fifteen days to one month.

The material is preferably left at least 5 minutes, or even at least 10 minutes in place on the skin after laying. According to an exemplary implementation of the invention, the material is left between 10 and 20 minutes in place after a fractionated treatment session. In another example, it is left between 10 and 45 minutes in place after a split treatment session.

If necessary, the material can be applied also before fractional treatment and alternatively before and after fractional treatment.

In the case of an application before fractional treatment, the material is for example applied less than half an hour before especially just before, the beginning of fractional treatment, or between 5 minutes and one hour before, the material being for example left between 5 and 45 minutes, or even between 10 and 20 minutes in place.

The zone having undergone the split treatment preferably receives at least one active agent, which may benefit from a decrease in the barrier function of the skin to penetrate more easily into it. The application of the material can be carried out jointly or not with the application of an asset. In the case where the material is applied before and after treatment, the material may contain different assets. For example, before fractional treatment, a first material contains an active agent for exerting a peeling action, for example chosen from dioic acid, vitamin C, retinol and their combinations, and after fractional treatment, a second material contains a regenerant active, for example selected from vitamin C, vitamin E, ferulic acid and combinations thereof.

Active agents In certain embodiments of the method according to the invention, the effect of the fractional laser treatment or other means making it possible to perform the fractional treatment can be potentiated by the application, on the treated skin, of a cosmetic composition possessing a remodeling and / or regenerative action of the dermis and / or the epidermis and / or an anti-aging action and / or a depigmentation action and / or an antimicrobial action and / or an anti-acne action and / or a soothing action. Such a cosmetic composition comprises an active agent or a combination of active agents, the active agent (s) may be chosen from anti-aging active agents, photoprotective active agents, and active agents having active properties. hydration or immunomodulators (including moisturizing or moisturizing active agents), the active agents for improving the natural lipid barrier, the anti-radical or antioxidant active agents, the active agents stimulating the synthesis of dermal and / or epidermal macromolecules and / or preventing their degradation, pain-relieving active agents, regenerating active agents, surface exfoliating active agents, anti-wrinkle active agents, tensetting active agents, soothing active agents, anti-inflammatory active agents, sequestering active agents and pH adjusting agents (acids or bases).

Among the anti-aging active agents, food antioxidants, active agents with anti-free radical properties and cofactors of the endogenous antioxidant enzymes: vitamin A, carotenoids, xantophyls, isoflavones, certain minerals such as zinc, copper, magnesium, selenium, lipoic acid, coenzyme Q10, superoxide dismutase (SOD) or taurine. Among the anti-aging active ingredients, unsaponifiable fractions extracted from vegetable lipids, aloe vera, native marine collagen or hydrolysed, vegetable or marine oils rich in omega-3 fatty acids, omega-6 (including gamma-linolenic acid).

Among the active photoprotective agents, there may be mentioned: antioxidants and antiradicals: vitamin A, carotenoids, xantophyls, certain minerals such as zinc, copper, magnesium, selenium, co-enzyme Q10, superoxide dismultase (SOD), probiotics. Among the active agents having hydrating or immunomodulatory properties, mention may be made of probiotics, an extract of polypodium leucotomos, vegetable or marine oils rich in fatty acids w-3, in w-6, including gamma acid linolenic. Humidifying or moisturizing agents that may be mentioned include urea and its derivatives, in particular 2-hydroxyethyl urea marketed under the name Hydrovance® by National Starch, monosaccharides such as mannose, hyaluronic acid, AHAs, BHAs, homopolymers of acrylic acid such as poly-2- (methacryloyloxyethyl) phosphorylcholine sold under the name Lipidure-HM® by the company NOF corporation, beta-glucan and in particular sodium carboxymethyl betaglucane from Mibelle-AG-Biochemistry; a polyoxybutylene polyoxyethylene polyoxypropylene glycerol such as PEG / PPG / polybutylene glycol-8/5/3 glycerin distributed under the name WILBRIDE S-753L® from NOF corporation), a muscat rose oil marketed by Nestlé; spheres of collagen and chondroitin sulfate of marine origin (Ateocollagen) marketed by Engelhard Lyon under the name marine filling spheres; spheres of hyaluronic acid such as those sold by the company Engelhard Lyon. As hydrating active agent, it is also possible to use a polyol or glycerin. Among the active agents for improving the natural lipid barrier include ceramides, ceramide derivatives, cholesterol sulphates and / or fatty acids, and mixtures thereof. The ceramide-type compounds include ceramides and / or glycoceramides and / or pseudoceramides and / or neoceramides, natural or synthetic, and their derivatives. Ceramide-type compounds are described, for example, in DE 4424530, DE 4424533, DE 4402929, DE 4420736, WO 95/23807, WO 94/07844, EP 0 646 572, WO 95/16665 and FR 2 673179, EP 0 227 994, WO 94/07844, WO 94/24097 and WO 94/1013. The ceramide-type compounds include ceramides and / or glycoceramides, the structure of which is described by DOWNING in Journal of Lipid Research Vol. 35, 2060-2068, 1994, or those described in the French patent application FR-2 673 179. It is also possible to use specific mixtures such as, for example, mixtures of ceramide (s) 2 and ceramide (s) 5 according to the DOWNING classification. The compounds of formula (I) described in patent applications EP-A-0227994, EP-A-0 647 617, EP-A-0 736 522 and WO 94/07844 may also be used. Such compounds are, for example, QUESTAMIDE H (bis- (N-hydroxyethyl-N-cetyl) malonamide) sold by the company QUEST, N- (2-hydroxyethyl) -N- (3-cetyloxy-2-hydroxypropyl) amide. cetyl acid. N-docosanoyl N-methyl-D-glucamine described in patent application WO 94/24097 can also be used. It is also possible to use the compound of general formula (II) described in patent applications EP A-500437 and EP A-547617. The ceramide compounds include N-oleoyldihydrosphingosine or N-2-hydroxypalmitoyldihydrosphingosine, and preferably N-2-hydroxypalmitoyldihydrosphingosine. As preferred antioxidant, there may be mentioned more specifically tocopherol and its esters, in particular tocopherol acetate; EDTA, ascorbic acid and its derivatives, in particular ascorbyl magnesium phosphate and ascorbyl glucoside; chelating agents, such as BHT, BHA, N, N'-bis (3,4,5-trimethoxybenzyl) ethylenediamine and its salts, and mixtures thereof. Among the anti-radical or anti-oxidant active agents, mention may be made of polyphenols and in particular flavonoids, flavonols, anthocyanidins and flavanols. Among the polyphenols of interest include chlorogenic acid, procyanidins B1 and B2, epicatechin, phloretin, phloridzin (glycosylated derivative of phloretin), hesperidin, neo-hesperidin, hesperetin and p-coumaric acid. In particular, it is possible to use an antioxidant complex comprising vitamins C and E, and at least one carotenoid, in particular a carotenoid chosen from (3-carotene, lycopene, astaxanthin, zeaxanthin and lutein, flavonoids such as catechins, hesperidin, proanthocyanidines and anthocyanins, lipoic acid and coenzyme Q10 As active agents stimulating the synthesis of dermal and / or epidermal macromolecules and / or preventing their degradation, mention may be made of: peptides plant extracts, such as the soya hydrolyzate marketed by the company BASF Beauty Care Solutions under the trade name Phytokine, the malt extract as marketed under the name Collalift® by Engelhard Lyon, and rice peptides such as Nutripeptide of SILAB, or an extract of rice peptides such as Pentapharm's Colhibiri, methylsilanol mannuronate such as marketed Algisium C® by Exsymol, an extract of vaccinium myrtillus such as those described in application FR-A-2 814 950; the lupine extract marketed by Silab under the trademark Structurine®, and mixtures thereof. As active pain-relieving agents, it is possible to use an iris extract, a thermal water (including a thermal water from La Roche Posay), lidocaine, prilocaine, a lidocaine and prilocaine mixture. As regenerating active agents, Vitamin C, retinol or a derivative of retinol can be used. As active surface exfoliating agents, salicylic acid, lactic acid, dioecious acid or octadecenedioic acid, glycolic acid, acid can be used. Mandelic acid, capryloyl salicylic acid, jasmonic acid, urea or 5-noctanoyl salicylic acid. As anti-wrinkle active agents, it is possible to use desquamating agents; anti-glycation agents; NO-synthase inhibitors; agents stimulating the synthesis of dermal or epidermal macromolecules and / or preventing their degradation; agents stimulating the proliferation of fibroblasts and / or keratinocytes; agents stimulating or decreasing the differentiation of keratinocytes; muscle relaxants and / or dermodecontracting agents; anti-radical agents; and their mixtures. Examples of such compounds are: adenosine; retinol and its derivatives such as retinyl palmitate; ascorbic acid and its derivatives such as magnesium ascorbyl phosphate and ascorbyl glucoside; tocopherol and its derivatives such as tocopheryl acetate; nicotinic acid and its precursors such as nicotinamide; ubiquinone; glutathione and its precursors such as L-2-oxothiazolidine-4-carboxylic acid; C-beta-D-Xylopyranoside-2-hydroxy-propane as described in particular in application EP-1 345 919; plant extracts and in particular extracts of sea fennel and olive leaf, as well as vegetable proteins and their hydrolysates such as hydrolysates of rice or soy proteins; algae extracts and in particular laminaria; bacterial extracts; sapogenins such as diosgenin and extracts of Dioscorea, in particular Wild Yam, containing it; α-hydroxy acids; (3-hydroxyacids, such as salicylic acid and n-octanoyl-5-salicylic acid; oligopeptides and pseudodipeptides and their acyl derivatives, in particular {2- [acetyl- (3-trifluoromethylphenyl) ) -amino] -3-methyl-butyrylamino} acetic acid, hyaluronic acid fragments, sphingosines such as salicyloyl phyto-sphingosine, and mixtures thereof.The term "tensor active agent" can be used in a cosmetic composition according to the invention. is meant compounds which may have a tensor effect, that is to say capable of tending the skin, Such compounds are described in particular in application EP 2 026 882. Examples of additional anti-wrinkle active agents that can be used according to US Pat. The present invention is: ascorbic acid and its derivatives, such as magnesium ascorbyl phosphate and ascorbyl glucoside, tocopherol and its derivatives, such as tocopheryl acetate, nicotinic acid and its precursors, such as that nicotinamide, ubiquinone, glutat hion and its precursors, such as L-2-oxothiazolidine-4-carboxylic acid; C-glycoside compounds and their derivatives, as described in particular below; plant extracts and in particular extracts of sea fennel and olive leaf, as well as vegetable proteins and their hydrolysates, such as hydrolysates of rice or soy proteins; algae extracts and in particular laminaria; bacterial extracts; sapogenins, such as diosgenin and extracts of Dioscorea, in particular Wild Yam, containing it; α-hydroxy acids; (3-hydroxyacids, such as salicylic acid and n-octanoyl-5-salicylic acid; oligopeptides and pseudodipeptides and their acyl derivatives, in particular {2- [acetyl- (3-trifluoromethylphenyl) ) -amino] -3-methyl-butyrylamino} acetic acid and the lipopeptides sold by SEDERMA under the trade names Matrixyl 500 and Matrixyl 3000, lycopene, manganese and magnesium salts, in particular gluconates, and mixtures thereof.

As soothing agents that can be used in the composition used according to the invention, mention may be made of: pentacyclic triterpenes and plant extracts (eg Glycyrrhiza glabra) containing them, such as (3-glycyrrhetinic acid and its salts and / or derivatives ( glycyrrhetinic acid monoglucuronide, stearyl glycyrrhetinate, 3-stearoyloxy glycyrrhetic acid), ursolic acid and its salts, oleanolic acid and its salts, betulinic acid and its salts, an extract of Paeonia suffruticosa and or lactiflora, the salts of salicylic acid and in particular zinc salicylate, the phycosaccharides of the company Codif, an extract of Laminaria saccharina, the canola oil, the bisabolol and the extracts of chamomile, the allantoin, the Sepepital EPC (vitamin E and C diesterphosphoric acid) from Seppic, unsaturated omega 3 oils such as rosehip musk, blackcurrant, ecchium, fish, plankton extract, capryloyl glycine, Seppicalm V G (sodium palmitoylproline and nymphea alba) of Seppic, an extract of Pygeum, an extract of Boswellia serrata, an extract of Centipeda cunnighami, an extract of Helianthus annuus, an extract of Linum usitatissimum, tocotrienols, extracts of Cola nitida, piperonal, clove extract, Epilobium Angustifolium extract, aloe vera, Bacopa moniera extract, phytosterols, cortisone, hydrocortisone, indomethacin and beta methasone. As anti-inflammatory active agents, it is possible to use glycyrrhetinic acid, tripeptide KPV or a tripeptide derivative KPV, a phycosaccharide, a rose extract, vitamin B3, procysteine, or L-2-oxothiazolidine acid. 4-carboxylic acid. As sequestering active agents, polyaspartic acid or a salt thereof, a cellulose derivative (eg carboxymethylcellulose), copolymers containing monomeric units of hydroxysuccinic acid and maleic acid monomeric units can be used. , or salts thereof. As an acidic pH adjusting agent, it is possible to use citric acid, lactic acid, or malic or glycolic or mandelic or salicylic acid. As the basic pH adjusting agent, disodium phosphate or sodium hydroxide may be used.

As active agents conventionally used in a cosmetic composition of the invention, mention may be made of vitamins B3, B5, B6, B8, C, D, E, or PP, niacin, carotenoids, polyphenols, minerals and trace elements, phytooestrogens, proteins and amino acids, mono- and polysaccharides, amino-sugars, phytosterols and triterpene alcohols of vegetable origin. The minerals and trace elements that may be included in a cosmetic composition used according to the invention include zinc, calcium, magnesium, copper, iron, iodine, manganese, selenium, chromium (III ). Among the polyphenols, polyphenols of grape, tea, olive, cocoa, coffee, apple, blueberry, elderberry, strawberry, cranberry, and onion are also particularly preferred. Preferably, among the phytoestrogens, isoflavones are retained in the free or glycosylated form, such as genistein, daidzein, glycitein or lignans, in particular those of flax and schizandra chinensis. A cosmetic composition according to the invention may also comprise amino acids or peptides and proteins containing them, such as taurine, threonine, cysteine, tryptophan, methionine. A cosmetic composition according to the invention may also comprise a lipid or a mixture of lipids. The lipids preferably belong to the group of oils containing mono and polyunsaturated fatty acids such as oleic, linoleic, alpha-linolenic, gamma-linolenic, stearidonic, omega-3 fatty acids of long-chain fish, such as EPA and DHA, conjugated fatty acids derived from plants or animals, such as CLA (Conjugated Linoleic Acid).

A cosmetic composition according to the invention may also comprise one or more active agents chosen from a prebiotic or a mixture of prebiotics. More particularly, these prebiotics can be chosen from oligosaccharides, produced from glucose, galactose, xylose, maltose, sucrose, lactose, starch, xylan, hemicellulose, inulin, acacia-type gums, for example, or of their mixtures. More particularly, the oligosaccharide comprises at least one fructooligosaccharide. More particularly, this prebiotic may comprise a mixture of fructo-oligosaccharide and inulin. In the topical dosage forms, proteins or protein hydrolysates, amino acids, polyols, especially C 2 to C 10, such as glycerol, sorbitol, butylene glycol and polyethylene glycol, urea, may be used more particularly as hydrophilic active agents. allantoin, sugars and sugar derivatives, water-soluble vitamins, starch, bacterial or plant extracts such as Aloe Vera. With regard to lipophilic active agents, it is possible to use retinol (vitamin A) and its derivatives, tocopherol (vitamin E) and its derivatives, ceramides, essential oils and unsaponifiables (tocotrienol, sesamin, gamma oryzanol, phytosterols , squalens, waxes, terpenes). It is also possible to advantageously associate with the product active agents capable of acting: either directly on desquamation by promoting exfoliation, such as 13-hydroxy acids, in particular salicylic acid and its derivatives (including the acid n-octanoyl 5-salicylic); α-hydroxy acids, such as glycolic, citric, lactic, tartaric, malic or mandelic acids; urea and some of its derivatives; gentisic acid; oligofucoses; cinnamic acid; dioecious acid; Saphora japonica extract; resveratrol; detergents and certain jasmic acid derivatives; and / or on the activities of the enzymes involved in the degradation of corneodesmosomes, such as the stratum corneum chymotryptic enzyme (SCCE), or even other proteases (trypsin-like, chymotrypsin-like, cathepsin D) and other categories hydrolases (eg glycosidases, ceramidases). Mention may be made of chelating agents for mineral salts: EDTA; N-acyl-N, N ', N', ethylene diaminetriacetic acid; aminosulfonic compounds and in particular (N-2-hydroxyethylpiperazine-N-2-ethane) sulfonic acid (HEPES); 2-oxothiazolidine-4-carboxylic acid derivatives (procysteine); glycine-type alpha amino acid derivatives (as described in EP 0 852 949, as well as sodium methyl glycine diacetate marketed by BASF under the trade name TRILON M); honey ; sugar derivatives such as O-octanoyl-6-D-maltose and N-acetyl glucosamine; urea or some of its derivatives for example Hydrovance; C-glycoside derivatives. A cosmetic composition useful for carrying out the process according to the invention may, in certain embodiments, comprise one or more proteins and / or one or more peptides able to prevent and / or treat the signs of cutaneous aging, such as plakoglobin or peptides derived from this protein, the protein HSP 27 (Heat Shock Protein 27 or HSPB1 in humans) or peptides derived from this protein, lacritin protein or peptides derived from this protein, the protein CLSP (for "calmodulinlike skin protein") or peptides derived from this protein, the protein Desmoglein I (or DGI) or peptides derived from this protein. A cosmetic composition useful for carrying out the process according to the invention may, in certain embodiments, comprise one or more probiotic microorganisms, such as microorganisms of the genus Bifidobacterium species or Lactobacillus, or a lysate or a fraction derived from said microorganisms. By way of illustration, the microorganisms of the genus Bifidobacterium species may be chosen from the species: Bifidobacterium longum, Bifidobacterium bifidum, Bifidobacterium breve, Bifidobacterium animalis, Bifidobacterium lactis, Bifidobacterium infantis, Bifidobacterium adolescentis, Bifidobacterium pseudocatenulatum and their mixtures. By way of illustration, the microorganisms of the genus Lactobacillus may be chosen from the species: Lactobacillus johnsonii, Lactobacillus paracasei, Lactobacillus reuteri, Lactobacillus rhamnosus and their mixtures.

Other microorganisms or extracts of microorganisms including Vitreoscilla filiformis can be used for their properties to stimulate antimicrobial defenses and to stimulate endogenous antioxidant defenses such as SOD2. The cosmetic compositions according to the invention may be in any galenical form normally available for the chosen mode of administration. The cosmetic compositions according to the invention, which are intended for topical administration, can be aqueous, hydroalcoholic or oily solutions, dispersions of the type of solutions or dispersions of the lotion or serum type, emulsions of liquid or semi-solid consistency. milk-type liquid, obtained by dispersion of a fatty phase in an aqueous phase (O / W) or conversely (W / O) or a suspension or emulsion of soft, semi-solid or solid consistency, of the cream type aqueous or anhydrous milk or gel, emulsified or clear, hydroalcoholic or otherwise, microemulsions, microcapsules, micro and nanoparticles, or vesicular dispersions of ionic and / or nonionic type.

These compositions are prepared according to the usual methods. When the composition of the invention is an emulsion, the proportion of the fatty phase can range from 5 to 80% by weight, and preferably from 5 to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The oils, emulsifiers and coemulsifiers used in the composition in emulsion form are chosen from those conventionally used in the cosmetics and / or dermatological field. The emulsifier and the co-emulsifier may be present in the composition in a proportion ranging from 0.3 to 30% by weight, and preferably from 0.5 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. . When the composition of the invention is a solution or an oily gel, the fatty phase may represent more than 90% of the total weight of the composition. In known manner, the dosage forms dedicated to topical administration may also contain adjuvants which are usual in the cosmetic, pharmaceutical and / or dermatological field, such as hydrophilic or lipophilic gelling agents, hydrophilic or lipophilic active agents, preservatives, antioxidants, solvents, perfumes, fillers, filters, bactericides, odor absorbers and dyestuffs. The amounts of these various adjuvants are those conventionally used in the field under consideration and, for example, from 0.01 to 20% of the total weight of the composition. These adjuvants, depending on their nature can be introduced into the fatty phase and / or into the aqueous phase. As fats usable in the invention include mineral oils, such as, for example, hydrogenated polyisobutene and petrolatum oil, vegetable oils, such as, for example, a liquid fraction of shea butter, sunflower oil and apricot kernels, animal oils, such as, for example, perhydrosqualene, synthetic oils, especially Purcellin oil, isopropyl myristate and ethyl hexyl palmitate, unsaturated fatty acids and oils fluorinated compounds, for example perfluoropolyethers. It is also possible to use fatty alcohols, fatty acids, for example stearic acid and, for example, waxes, especially paraffin wax, carnauba wax and beeswax. It is also possible to use silicone compounds such as silicone oils and, for example, cyclomethicone and dimethicone, waxes, resins and silicone gums. As emulsifiers which can be used in the invention, mention may be made, for example, of glycerol stearate, polysorbate 60, the cetylstearyl alcohol / cetylstearyl alcohol mixture oxyethylenated with 33 moles of ethylene oxide sold under the name Sinnowax AO® by the HENKEL company, the mixture of PEG-6 / PEG-32 / glycol stearate sold under the name of Tefose® 63 by Gattefosse, PPG-3 myristyl ether, silicone emulsifiers, such as cetyldimethicone copolyol and mono- or tristearate sorbitan, PEG-40 stearate, oxyethylenated sorbitan monostearate (20 OE).

As solvents that can be used in the invention, mention may be made of lower alcohols, in particular ethanol and isopropanol, and propylene glycol. A composition according to the invention may also advantageously contain a thermal and / or mineral water, in particular chosen from Vittel water, the waters of the Vichy basin and Roche Posay water.

As hydrophilic gelling agents, mention may be made of carboxylic polymers such as carbomer, acrylic copolymers such as copolymers of acrylates / alkyl acrylates, polyacrylamides and especially the polyacrylamide mixture, C13-14-Isoparaffin and Laureth-7 sold under the name Sepigel 305® by the company SEPPIC, polysaccharides such as cellulose derivatives such as hydroxyalkylcelluloses, and in particular hydroxypropylcellulose and hydroxyethylcellulose, natural gums such as guar, carob and xanthan and clays. As lipophilic gelling agents, mention may be made of modified clays such as bentones, metal salts of fatty acids such as aluminum stearates and hydrophobic silica, or else ethylcellulose and polyethylene. In a known manner, a cosmetic composition may also contain adjuvants customary in the cosmetic field, such as hydrophilic or lipophilic gelling agents, hydrophilic or lipophilic additives, preservatives, antioxidants, solvents, perfumes, fillers, filters, odor absorbers and dyestuffs, surfactants, polymers, oils, emollients, thickeners, complexing agents, this list not being limiting. The amounts of the various constituents of the compositions according to the invention are those conventionally used in the fields under consideration. In certain advantageous embodiments, a cosmetic composition suitable for carrying out the process according to the invention comprises at least one active agent chosen from Pro-Xylan (C-BETA-D-XYLOPYRANOSIDE-2-HYDROXY-PROPANE). , jasmonic acid, hydroxyjasmonic acid, Prolastyl® ({2-acetyl-3-trifluoromethylphenyl) -amino) -3-methyl-butyrylamino} -acetic acid), resveratrol, resveratrol glucoside, ferulic acid, phloretin, a ceramide, acetyl trifluoromethylphenyl valylglycine, vitamin C, ethivitamin C, vitamin E, hesperidin, neo-hesperidin. In some embodiments, said cosmetic composition comprises a combination of vitamin C, vitamin E and ferulic acid. In these embodiments, said cosmetic composition is preferably in the form of a solution. A cosmetic composition of this type may comprise at least 10% by weight of vitamin C, at least 0.5% by weight of vitamin E and at least 0.1% by weight of ferulic acid, relative to the total weight of the composition.

According to an exemplary implementation of the invention, the application of the aqueous material after fractional treatment takes place at the same time as the application of the cosmetic or dermatological active, for example thanks to the fact that a sheet material containing both the hydrogel and / or the biocellulose and the active is applied to the zone having undergone the fractional treatment.

For example, a biocellulose mask is applied to the skin after fractional treatment, this biocellulose mask containing at least one cosmetic or dermatological active ingredient, for example a cosmetic composition comprising a combination of vitamin C, vitamin E and ferulic acid. According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the fractionated treatment, in particular by fractional laser, is carried out, then the aqueous material is applied and, after removal of the material, the active agent is applied. In a variant, alternatively or in addition to the application of an active ingredient topically, the method according to the invention comprises the taking of a dietary supplement and / or an oral probiotic intended for a cosmetic action, for example regenerative of the skin and / or anti-aging and / or soothing, this list being non-limiting. The microorganisms that are suitable for the invention are microorganisms that can be administered without risk to animals or humans. Non-probiotic microorganisms include, but are not limited to, Vitreoscilla filiformis bacteria as described in Applications FR 2 879 452 and FR 2 914 189. In particular, at least one probiotic-type microorganism can be used in the present invention. that is, a living microorganism that, when consumed in an adequate amount, has a positive effect on the health of the host (FAO / WHO Expert Consultation on the Evaluation of Health and Nutritional Properties of Probiotic in Food Including Powder Milk with Live Lactic Acid Bacteria, October 6, 2001), and which can in particular improve intestinal microbial balance.

Specific examples of probiotic microorganisms are Bifidobacterium bifidum, Bifidobacterium infantis, Bifidobacterium longum, Lactobacillus acidophilus, Lactobacillus alimentarius, Lactobacillus casei subsp. Casei, Lactobacillus casei Shirota, Lactobacillus paracasei, Lactobacillus curvatus, Lactobacillus delbruckii subsp. Lactis, Lactobacillus gasseri, Lactobacillus johnsonii, Lactobacillus reuteri, Lactobacillus rhamnosus (Lactobacillus GG), Lactobacillus sake, Lactococcus lactis, Streptococcus thermophilus, Staphylococcus carnosus, and Staphylococcus xylosus and mixtures thereof. The microorganisms may be formulated as powders, i.e., in a dry form, or as suspensions or solutions.

If necessary, these microorganisms can be formulated within the compositions according to the invention in an encapsulated form so as to significantly improve their survival time. In such a case, the presence of a capsule may in particular delay or prevent degradation of the microorganism in the gastrointestinal tract.

The most suitable species are Lactobacillus johnsonii, Lactobacillus paracasei, Bifidobacterium adolescentis, Bifidobacterium longum respectively deposited according to the Budapest Treaty with the Pasteur Institute (28 rue du Docteur Roux, F-75024 Paris cedex 15) on 30/06/92 , 12/01/99, 15/04/99 and 15/04/99 under the following designations CNCM I-1225, CNCM I-2116, CNCM I-2168 and CNCM I2170, and the genus Bifidobacterium lactis (Bb 12) (ATCC27536) or Bifidobacterium longum (BB536). The strain of Bifidobacterium lactis (ATCC27536) can be obtained from Hansen (Hansen AIS Chr., 10-12 Boege Alle, PO Box 407, DK-2970 Hoersholm, Denmark). The composition may comprise at least two microorganisms, including probiotics and / or different metabolites and / or fractions. In the particular case of the compositions to be administered orally, the concentration of microorganism (s) including probiotic (s) can be adjusted to correspond to doses (expressed in microorganism equivalent) ranging from 5.105 to 1013 cfu / day and in particular from 10 'to 1011 cfu / day. The microorganism (s) may be included in the composition according to the invention in a living, semi-active or inactivated, dead form.

For ingestion, many embodiments of oral compositions and in particular dietary supplements are possible. Their formulation is carried out by the usual methods for producing dragees, capsules, gels, emulsions, tablets, capsules or solutions. In particular, the active (s) according to the invention can be incorporated into all other forms of food supplements or fortified foods, for example food bars, or compacted powders or not. The powders can be diluted with water, in soda, dairy products or soy derivatives, or incorporated into food bars. The active agents according to the invention can be formulated with the excipients and components customary for such oral compositions or food supplements, namely in particular fatty and / or aqueous components, humectants, thickeners, preservatives, texture, flavor and / or coating agents, antioxidants, preservatives and dyes common in the field of food. According to another of its aspects, the subject of the invention is also a method of cosmetic treatment of the skin, without therapeutic aim, following a split treatment of the skin, comprising the following steps: - applying to the area to be treated after the fractional treatment, in particular by fractional laser, a material comprising a hydrogel and / or biocellulose, - applying, on the zone to be treated, jointly or otherwise to the application of the material, an active agent having preferably an epidermal regenerative action and / or dermal, depigmenting action, anti-acne action, action to grow hair, hair removal action, anti-dandruff action when it comes to the scalp, exfoliating action, soothing action, stimulating action epidermal and / or dermal hydration, in particular Hyaluronan synthase, an inhibitory action for hyaluronidases and a regenerator or protector of the dermis, in particular in the case of the syntheses of collagen and elastin and / or collagenase and elastase inhibitors and / or activator of the tissue and endogenous inhibitors of these proteases, or a slimming action, the active agent being chosen in particular from those described above.

Fractional treatment Micro-needles Fractional treatment can be performed using micro-needles. The micro-needles may be solid (solid or hollow), with the object of micro-perforation, or soluble allowing the rupture of the tips after perforation and the formation of micro-implants with progressive dissolution over time. The micro-needles may thus comprise an orifice for administering an asset-containing composition as described above or be devoid of an orifice, the active agent then being deposited on the surface of the micro-needles as described in WO 2007/061964.

Micro-needles can still be used as micro-perforators of the skin, facilitating the subsequent application of one or more assets. Soluble micro-needles are described in publications WO 2004/000389, US 6,945,952, WO 2004/024224, JP 2005/154321, WO 2007/023167, US 2005/0065463 and WO 03/092785. The constituent material of the microneedles claimed in JP 2005/154321 is a mixture of maltose with a dextran or trehalose. WO 2007/023167 discloses micro-needles based on lactic and glycolic acid copolymer. In this case, the constituent material only plays the role of inert excipient, intended to promote the release of the asset. US 2005/0065463 teaches in particular that the asset is dispersed in the sugar matrix, preferably in a homogeneous manner. WO 03/092785 describes the combination of calcium phosphate with certain sugars to form micro-needles in order to incorporate biologically active molecules into the pores of calcium phosphate. Laser Most preferably, the laser is preferred for performing the fractional treatment. A fractional laser affects the surface of the stratum corneum so as to create by local photothermolysis a plurality of pores spaced apart from one another in the surface layers of the skin. Preferably, the fractional laser is non-ablative, this type of laser also being referred to as a fractional laser remodeling. The skin retains after fractional treatment its ability to prevent infections. The increase of skin permeability related to the formation of micro-wells by the laser is reversible. The permeability may for example be increased for at least 1 hour, or even 2 hours, 6 hours, 12 hours, 1 day, 2 days, or 5 days. To split the impacts and arrange them spaced apart on the skin, preferably evenly spaced, the laser may include a motorized scanner which has one or more rotating mirrors whose rotational speed causes a scan of the laser spot. According to the fractional laser used, the scanning can be done according to different paths: round scanning, rectangle, square or random scan. The fractional laser treatment can comprise several successive passes of the laser over a given area in order to obtain a better homogeneity of the treatment. At each passage, new points of impact are created, spaced from the points of impact of the previous passages. An example of a non-ablative fractional laser is that marketed by SOLTA under the trade name FRAXEL re: store ® Dual (1927nm).

Examples of fractional lasers are described in application US 2008/0208179 A1, in particular in paragraphs [0104] to [0116]. The values indicated in these passages are applicable to the present invention. The wavelength of the fractional laser is preferably in the IR, and may especially be 1100 nm and 2500 nm. In exemplary embodiments of the invention, the wavelength is equal to 1410 nm, 1435 nm, 1550 nm or 1927 nm. The treatment depth may be between 200 μm and 1.4 mm, better 700 μm and 1.4 mm. The treatment depth is for example about 555 microns, 794 microns, or 1120 microns. A greater depth of treatment and larger wells are obtained when the light output is greater. The size of a micro-well is, for example, from 0.5 μm in diameter to 500 μm in diameter. Preferably, the size ranges from 50 to 350 μm. The density of the micro-wells (also called pores) created by the fractionated treatment is for example between 100 and 10,000 microwells per cm 2, better 100 and 2000. The irradiance, which measures the power density received by the skin to be treated, is preferably between 25 kW / cm 2 and 4 MW / cm 2.

The fluence of the laser treatment, which measures the energy density received on the skin area to be treated, is preferably between 4 kJ / cm 2 and 160 kJ / cm 2. The energy of a laser pulse to create a micro-well is, for example, from 0.1 mJ to 50 mJ.

In a preferred example, the laser is a FRAXEL re: store® Dual laser used with a 1927nm wavelength and a pulse power of 10 mJ. According to one aspect of the invention, the fractional treatment, when carried out by means of a fractional laser, may comprise the step of emitting the laser radiation through a thickness of the aqueous material, in particular biocellulose.

The choice of the thickness of the material traversed by the laser radiation can be effected for example according to the power of the laser radiation and the desired treatment depth. Thus, for a thin skin, the thickness of the material may be, at equal laser power, increased so as to reduce the penetration of laser radiation into the skin. Several sheet materials of different thicknesses can be proposed to the user to enable him to choose the thickness suitable for the treatment to be performed. Treated Areas The invention may be used to treat the face, including the eye area, cheeks, lips or any other part of the body, including the décolleté or the hands and the bald areas of the scalp or underarms. The subject of the invention is also a treatment system for carrying out a method according to the invention, comprising a treatment unit comprising the material to be applied to the skin, either a hydrated form or a form to hydrate extemporaneously, and a means for performing the fractional treatment, for example microneedles or a fractional laser. For example, the fractional laser is proposed to the user with the hydrogel and / or the active agent within the same packaging. Additional Light Treatment The fractionally treated skin area may be exposed to a light treatment that does not generate any significant elevation of skin temperature. This light treatment can also be performed before the split treatment.

Preferably, the light is monochromatic at ± 10 nm, preferably having a wavelength of 592 nm ± 10 nm. The fluence of the additional light treatment is, for example, less than or equal to 5 J / cm 2, better still 0.5 J / cm 2.

The luminous power received without fractional treatment at the level of the treated skin zone is for example between 1 mW / cm 2 and 50 mW / cm 2. The light can be pulsed, the duration of each light pulse being between 100 and 250 milliseconds. The pulsed light may for example comprise 100 pulses of 250 ms of light, with 100 ms of extinction between each pulse, during a treatment phase of at least 30 s, for example 35 s. This additional processing can be performed by placing one or more light sources emitting at the desired wavelength in front of the zone to be treated, for example several LEDs arranged on a panel placed in front of the zone to be treated, without contact with it. The treatment can also be carried out with a device brought as close as possible to the zone to be treated, for example forming a mask or patch to be placed in contact with the zone to be treated and comprising an artificial source of electromagnetic energy, in order to subject the skin to such light radiation, in particular one or more electroluminescent components such as LEDs or pulsed OLED or not. The use of OLED can make it possible to produce a flexible support capable of conforming to the relief of the zone to be treated. The emission of light can be through the sheet material comprising or consisting of the hydrogel. Independently or in combination with the foregoing, another object of the invention is, according to another of its aspects, a device to be applied to the skin (including the lips), comprising: a source of light energy integrated into the skin; device, a sheet material comprising biocellulose, in particular consisting of biocellulose, to bring into contact with the skin. The light energy source may comprise at least one LED or OLED electroluminescent component, as mentioned above.

The invention will be better understood on reading the following detailed description, examples of non-limiting implementation thereof, and on examining the appended drawing, in which: FIG. example of a processing system according to the invention, - Figure 2 illustrates different blanks of sheet materials, - Figure 3 illustrates a face being fractionated laser treatment, - Figure 4 shows detail IV of Figure 3, and FIG. 5 represents, in schematic partial section, an example of sheet material intended to be applied against the area of the skin to be treated. The treatment system 100 illustrated in FIG. 1 is a professional-type system comprising a laser 2 comprising a treatment head 20, and a treatment kit 1 comprising the hydrogel in the form of a sheet material 10 consisting preferably of of biocellulose and at least one composition in at least one container 30, comprising at least one active to be applied before and / or after the fractional laser treatment. The treatment head 20 is connected to a fixed station, for example via an articulated arm or a hose for easy orientation to the area to be treated. The fixed station may comprise a selector for choosing between several types of treatment, which differ for example by the intensity, the wavelength or the duration. The laser 2 is for example a FRAXEL® re: store Dual laser from SOLTA. In the example of FIG. 1, the sheet material 10 is a pre-cut mask in the form of a face, being previously contained in a sterile sachet 15 in the hydrated state. FIG. 2 shows other examples of sheet materials corresponding to the treatment of a hand or a cleavage. The composition (s) contained in the container (s) is intended to be used either prior to the split treatment to prepare the skin, or immediately after the split treatment and the application of the sheet material, or to hydrate the sheet material. .

In a variant not shown, the laser 2 is suitable for home use. The laser treatment head 20 optionally includes positioning means for maintaining the optical system at a non-zero constant distance from the skin. For the treatment, the laser head performs each scan over a zone a scan of the laser beam on the skin, the user performing one or more passes on each zone. The passage over an area can leave on the skin regular red dots, materializing the points of laser impact. Figure 3 illustrates a face being processed by fractional laser. Only a part of the areas have already been processed. In the illustrated example, the processing is done within each zone by a scan delimited by a rectangle. In FIG. 4, it can be seen that the micro-wells p of each zone are distant following a passage of a gap / non-zero. FIG. 5 is a partial sectional view of a variant of sheet material comprising an electroluminescent component 50 of the OLED type and a substrate 11 comprising or consisting of biocellulose or a hydrogel. Component 50 preferably emits at 592 nm ± 10 nm, pulsed, as described above. The light emitted gains the skin through the substrate 11, because of its transparency. EXAMPLES EXAMPLES Example 1 According to this example, the routine below comprising the successive steps is carried out several times, for example between 4 and 6 times: a) treatment for 3 to 30 minutes of the face, in particular pigment spots, wrinkles or acne, using a Fraxel Clear + Brilliant 1435nm laser, 3W, 4-9mJ, b) applying a hydrated biocellulose mask, for example a Xylos XCell patch, for 15 minutes. The mask is applied less than 30 minutes, preferably immediately after the end of the laser treatment.

In a variant, the mask has a water content greater than 90% and is made from a biocellulose sheet is obtained by aerobic static fermentation of a strain of Acetobacter Xylinum (strain ATCC23767). The biocellulose plate obtained after fermentation is rinsed with distilled water, washed with a dilute solution and then neutralized with a solution of acetic acid. After rinsing with distilled water, the biocellulose plate is in the form of a sheet about 2 mm thick. The biocellulose is then subjected to moist heat sterilization in an autoclave at 121 ° C. for 20 minutes. After removal of the mask, application of an antioxidant solution containing 10 to 20% (by mass) of vitamin C, associated 0.5 to 2% of vitamin E and 0.1 to 1% of ferulic acid. The treatment a) to c) above can be completed by the daily or bi-daily application in the morning of a non-aggressive surfactant based cleanser marketed by SkinCeuticals under the name Gentle Cleanser then solution I ci above, and a daily photoprotection product, for example protective coefficient SPF50 based on titanium dioxide. Example 2 The following steps are carried out. a) Preparation one week to a few hours before laser treatment of the skin surface with a mild peel using a biocellulose mask impregnated with dioecious acid, vitamin C and retinol. b) Treatment of the area to be treated using the fractional laser. c) Application of a few minutes to three days after step b) and for 10 to 20 minutes of a regenerating biocellulose mask impregnated with the composition I above. d) Application of a few hours up to 15 days after step b) of a biocellulose mask left in place for 10 to 20 minutes. e) Application of a new biocellulose mask targeting and re-educating epidermal homeostasis, impregnated with a composition comprising thermal plankton extracted from Vitreoscilla filiformis at the end of 0.1% and retinyl palmitate at a concentration of 0.05%.

This biocellulose mask is left 10 to 20 minutes in place. Its application is ideally 1 to 2 times a day, for 1 to 2 weeks after the application of the regenerating biocellulose mask. The application of such a mask allows renewal of the cutaneous matrix and protects the skin between each laser treatment. EXAMPLE 3 Instead of Composition I of Step c) of Example 2, a solution containing, as a replacement or complement, one of the active agents chosen from Pro-xylan, hydroxyjasmonic acid, Prolastyl and resveratrol mucoside. , is applied.

For example, composition IV is applied (proportions are by weight): A - Water 63.96% Glycerin 3% Potassium cetyl phosphate 0 5% Preservatives 0 5% Sodium hydroxide 0.04%

B - PEG-20 Stearate 0 4% Glyceryl stearate, PEG-100 stearate 2% Cetyl alcohol 1% Stearic acid 3% Hydrogenated polyisobutene 5% Dimethicone 9%

C - Polyacrylamide (and) C13-14 Isoparaffin (and) Laureth-7 1.6% D - Pro-Xylane 10% Procedure Phase A is heated with stirring at 80 ° C. until homogenization is complete. Phase B is heated with stirring to 80 ° C until a homogeneous phase is obtained and then added to phase A with stirring. The gelling agent (phase C) is then added and the mixture is cooled to room temperature. . Phase D is then added to complete the formulation. EXAMPLE 4 After fractional treatment, and application of a biocellulose mask, as in steps a) and b) of Example 1, the mask is subjected during its application to an orange pulsed light with a wavelength of 592 nm, during one or more phase of 35s, the duration of the light pulses being 250 ms, separated by extinction times of 100 ms, with 100 pulses of light over 35s, the power being approximately 4 mW / cm 2. This very short treatment, a fortiori if it is carried out through a mask does not induce any significant rise in temperature of the skin. EXAMPLE 5 After fractional treatment as in Example 1 and application of the biocellulose mask, there is taken of an oral food supplement, intended to reinforce the firmness and the dermal regeneration, for example the nutritional supplement "INEOV firmness" Distributed by Laboratoires INNEOV. The invention is not limited to the examples which have just been given. The method can be implemented in beauty parlor, for example. In a variant, the method can be implemented directly by the user.

In particular, the examples can be replicated with a hydrogel instead of biocellulose. Other assets than those mentioned in the examples can be used. The phrase "with one" should be understood as being synonymous with "having at least one".

Claims (11)

REVENDICATIONS1. A method for the cosmetic treatment of the skin, without a therapeutic aim, comprising the following steps: - carrying out a fractional treatment of the skin so as to reduce the barrier function of the skin, - applying to the area to be treated or treated, before, during or after the fractional treatment, an aqueous material comprising a hydrogel and / or biocellulose. 2. Method according to the preceding claim, the material comprising or being constituted by biocellulose. 3. Method according to claim 1 or 2, the fractional treatment being carried out using a laser, in particular a FRAXEL® type laser. 4. Method according to claim 3, several passes of the laser being performed on the same area during processing. 5. Method according to claim 1 or 2, the fractional treatment being carried out using microneedles. 6. Method according to one of the preceding claims, comprising the application of a cosmetic active, in conjunction or not with the application of the aqueous material, the active agent preferably having an epidermal and / or dermal regenerative action, an exfoliating action. , a depigmenting action, an anti-acne action or a soothing action, an action intended to grow the hair, a depilatory action, an anti-dandruff action when it comes to the scalp, an exfoliating action, a soothing action, an action stimulator of epidermal and / or dermal hydration, in particular Hyaluronan synthase, an inhibitory action for hyaluronidases and a regenerator or protector of the dermis, in particular by activating collagen and elastin syntheses and or collagenase and elastase and / or activator inhibitors; tissue and endogenous inhibitors of these proteases or a slimming action. 7. Process according to claim 6, the active agent being chosen from: Pro-Xylan, hydoxyjasmonic acid, resveratrol, ferrulic acid, Phloretine, ceramides, acetyl trifluoromethylphenyl valylglycine, ethylvitamine C, hesperidin or neohesperidin. The method according to any one of the preceding claims, further comprising treating the treated or treated area by exposure to a fluence light of less than or equal to 5 J / cm 2, more preferably 0.5 J / cm 2 preferably at a light having a wavelength of 592 nm ± 10 nm, more preferably a pulsed light. 9. Method according to the preceding claim, the light treatment being carried out while the aqueous material is in contact with the area to be treated or treated, the light radiation passing through the aqueous material. 10. A process according to any one of claims 1 to 9, except claim 5, the fractional treatment being carried out by means of a laser fractionated through the aqueous material. 11. Skin treatment assembly, comprising: an aqueous material to be applied to the area to be treated, and a means (2) for performing a fractional treatment, in particular a microneedle device or a laser. 14. The assembly of claim 1, further comprising at least one composition comprising at least one active agent selected from regenerating, anti-inflammatory and / or pain-relieving and / or depigmenting and / or anti-acneic and / or soothing active agents, a soothing action, an agent for stimulating epidermal and / or dermal hydration, in particular Hyaluronan synthase and / or a hyaluronidase and dermal regenerator or protector inhibitor and / or inhibitor of collagenases and elastases and / or activator of tissue inhibitors and endogenous of these proteases and / or a slimming agent and / or an exfoliating agent and / or a nutritional supplement or an anti-dandruff agent or a hair-growing agent or an agent for growing hair or an epilatory agent . 15. Assembly according to one of claims 11 or 12, the aqueous material comprising or consisting of biocellulose. An assembly according to any one of claims 11 to 13 including a light source for exposing the skin to a fluence light of less than or equal to 5 J / cm 2, more preferably 0.5 J / cm 2, preferably a pulsed light, more preferably of wavelength equal to 592 nm ± 10 nm. An assembly according to claim 14, the light source (50) and the aqueous material (11) being integral with each other.