FR2942962A1 - Cosmetic process for caring skin, which is fragile and damaged by chemical, mechanical and/or physical treatment, comprises applying a composition comprising at least one dihydrochalcone or its derivatives, in a medium, on the skin - Google Patents

Abstract

Cosmetic process for caring skin, which is fragile and damaged by chemical, mechanical and/or physical treatment, comprises applying a composition comprising at least one dihydrochalcone or its derivatives, in a medium, on the skin. Independent claims are included for: (1) cosmetic process of care and/or treatment of skin, comprising: cosmetic pre-treatment of chemical, mechanical and/or physical nature of the skin, optionally followed by a rinsing of the skin; and post-treatment comprising applying the topical application of the composition on the area of treated skin; and (2) an assembly or kit for care and/or treatment of skin, comprising: a first composition comprising an agent comprising a peeling agent, an exfoliating agent and an antiacne agent; and a second composition comprising dihydrochalcone or its derivatives, in a medium.

Description

FIELD OF THE INVENTION The field of the invention relates to the care and / or the treatment of a weakened skin and / or a weakened and / or impaired skin. altered, in particular by a chemical, mechanical and / or physical treatment. The treatment or post-treatment with dihydrochalcones of a weakened skin and / or altered by a pre-treatment of chemical, mechanical and / or physical type. "Fragile and / or impaired skin", especially after chemical, mechanical and / or physical treatment, means skin with an alteration of the cohesion and / or organization of the stratum corneum, leading to a modification of the biophysical properties (alteration of texture, hydration, flexibility) and / or optical (loss of homogeneity, brightness, transparency of the complexion) of said skin.

The invention relates in particular to a cosmetic process for the care of a skin weakened and / or impaired, in particular by a chemical, mechanical and / or physical treatment, comprising the application to said weakened and / or weathered skin of a composition comprising in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one dihydrochalcone or one of its derivatives.

It also relates to the cosmetic use of a dihydrochalcone or a derivative thereof in a composition containing a physiologically acceptable medium, as an agent intended to improve the surface condition of an altered and / or weakened skin by a treatment chemical, mechanical and / or physical.

Also included in the invention is a skin care and / or treatment kit comprising (i) a first composition comprising an agent selected from a desquamating agent, an exfoliating agent, an anti-acne agent, capable of weakening and / or altering the surface condition of the skin, and (ii) a second composition comprising at least one dihydrochalcone or a derivative thereof; or alternatively, replacing the composition (i), a shaving device and / or depilation or a device emitting light radiation.

Human skin consists of two compartments namely a deep compartment, the dermis, and a superficial compartment, the epidermis. The dermis provides the epidermis with a solid support. It is also its nurturing element. It consists mainly of fibroblasts and an extracellular matrix composed mainly of collagen, elastin and a substance, called the fundamental substance, which are synthesized by the fibroblast. There are also leucocytes, mast cells or tissue macrophages. The dermis is also covered with blood vessels and nerve fibers.

The natural human epidermis is conventionally divided into a basal layer of keratinocytes which constitutes the germinal layer of the epidermis, a so-called spinous layer consisting of several layers of polyhedral cells arranged on the germinal cells, a so-called granular layer consisting of flattened cells containing distinct cytoplasmic inclusions, the keratohyalin grains, and finally an upper layer called the stratum corneum, which consists of corneocytes, which are mummified, anucleate cellular structures that derive from keratinocytes. The interior of the corneocytes is formed of macro-filaments of keratin assembled by filaggrin. The corneocyte wall is formed by the horny envelope, a highly resistant and insoluble proteolipidic structure. The proper formation of horny envelopes is essential to ensure the quality of the stratum corneum whose role is fundamental in the biophysical and optical properties of the skin. The horny envelope is synthesized at the interface between the stratum granulosum and the stratum corneum under the plasma membrane of keratinocytes by the action of transglutaminases which catalyze the formation of covalent bridges between the precursor proteins of the horny envelope.

The importance of the role of transglutaminases in the construction of the stratum corneum and consequently in obtaining a supple, homogeneous and transparent skin as well as in the improvement of the regularity and / or brightness of the skin can thus be appreciated. complexion.

It therefore appears essential to find active agents that increase the expression of transglutaminase and / or the expression of filaggrin.

However, the Applicant has just demonstrated the effect of dihydrochalcones, and in particular of neohesperidine dihydrochalcone and phloretine, on the one hand, the increase in the expression of transglutaminase K (TGK), differentiation marker terminal which plays an essential role in the constitution of horny envelopes, and on the other hand the increase of filaggrine. Because of their ability to increase the expression of transglutaminase K, a terminal differentiation marker that plays an essential role in the constitution of horny envelopes, dihydrochalcones (including neohesperidin dihydrochalcone and phloretin) and their derivatives are particularly useful for improving texture, hydration, surface, flexibility and / or homogeneity, transparency and / or radiance of a skin weakened and / or impaired in particular by chemical, mechanical and / or physical treatment.

By "chemical treatment" is meant in particular peel treatments including glycolic acid, LHA, salicylic acid, trichloroacetic acid; and / or treatments against acne including salicylic acid, retinoids, benzoyl peroxide, erythromycin.

By "mechanical treatment" is meant in particular shaving or depilation, deep cleanings such as exfoliations and microabrasions involving the application and / or massage of a cleaning composition (preferably rinsed) comprising particles solid; or mesotherapy.

By "physical treatment" is meant especially phototherapy treatments using lasers, IPL, LED.

The prior art has known the use of dihydrochalcones for their antioxidant activity (JP2006056831, JP2002275468). At the cutaneous level, some are described to fight against acne, induce UDP Glucuronosyl Transferase or UGT (W02005102266) inhibit melanogenesis, angiogenesis, inhibit enzymes such as arylsulfurase (WO2001099376), hyaluronidase (JP2004043354) , MMPs (collagen-destroying enzymes), inhibit the Maillard reaction (JP 2003212774), inhibit glucose transport (EP565785). The use of phloretin for the control of acne is also described in US 5,110,801 and US 4,684,627. JP2007119431 discloses a composition for the treatment or prevention of dry skin and skin barrier function, including phloretin. WO2001074327 describes the use of phloretine as a protease inhibitor to protect the desmosomes connecting the corneocytes at the outer layer of the skin (improvement of the barrier function). The neohesperidin dihydrochalcone is described for the treatment of sensitive skin, reactive and immunosuppressive But to the knowledge of the Applicant, it has never been described or suggested the effect of dihydrochalcones and in particular neohesperidine dihydrochalcone and phloretine on the expression of markers of keratinocyte differentiation nor proposed their use to improve the state of a skin weakened and / or impaired by a chemical, mechanical and / or physical treatment.

The improvement of the stratum corneum repair will allow the attacked, weakened or damaged skin to regain its suppleness, softness, good hydration, homogeneity, radiance and transparency. The present invention thus relates in particular to a cosmetic process for the care of a skin that is weakened and / or impaired, in particular by a chemical, mechanical and / or physical treatment, comprising the application on said weakened and / or weathered skin, in particular on the zones of weakened and / or altered skin, of a composition comprising in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one dihydrochalcone or one of its derivatives.

Treatments that may alter the skin's surface condition (pre-treatment)

According to a first mode, said composition comprising at least one dihydrochalcone or one of its derivatives is applied to a skin weakened and / or altered by a chemical treatment chosen from a peel, and / or an anti-acne treatment.

By "peeling treatment" is meant in particular the application to the skin of a composition containing at least 1% by weight of at least one desquamating agent, preferably at least 3% by weight of a desquamating agent. This desquamating agent may especially be chosen from: α-hydroxy acids (AHA) such as citric, lactic, glycolic, malic, tartaric or mandelic acid; 13-hydroxyacids (BHA) such as salicylic acid or n-octanoyl-5-salicylic acid; urea; aminosulfonic compounds and in particular (N-2-hydroxyethylpiperazine-N-2-ethane) sulfonic acid (HEPES); and derivatives of 2-oxothiazolidine-4-carboxylic acid (procysteine), and mixtures thereof. Lactic acid, glycolic acid, HEPES and mixtures thereof are preferred for use in the present invention. According to a particular mode, it will be a peel with glycolic acid. The amount of desquamating agent (s) can represent from 3 to 30%, in particular from 3 to 15% by weight of the peel composition. Generally, the peel composition is rinsed; then the skin is dried before application of the composition comprising dihydrochalcone or one of its derivatives. By "anti-acne treatment" is meant in particular the application to the skin of a composition containing at least one active agent on Propionibacterium acnes (P acnes) and / or an desquamating agent in an effective amount. As anti-P. Acnes agents, there may be mentioned in particular Asian acid, the monoethanolamine salt of 1-hydroxy-4-methyl-6-trimethylpentyl-2-pyridone (INCI name: piroctone olamine), sold especially under the name Octopirox by Clariant society; 10-hydroxy-2-decanoic acid such as Acnacidol P from Vincience, sodium ursolate, zinc oxide such as Zincare from Elementis GMBH, 2,4,4'-trichloro-2 ' hydroxy-diphenyl ether (or triclosan), 1- (3 ', 4'-dichlorophenyl) -3- (4'-chlorophenyl) urea (or triclocarban), 3,4,4'-trichlorocarbanilide, 3', 4 ', 5'-trichlorosalicylanilide, metronidazole and its salts, miconazole and its salts, itraconazole, terconazole, econazole, ketoconazole, saperconazole, fluconazole, clotrimazole, butoconazole, oxiconazole, sulfaconazole, sulconazole, terbinafine, ciclopirox, ciclopiroxolamine, undecylenic acid and its salts, resorcinol, octoxyglycerine or octoglycerine, octanoylglycine such as Lipacid C8G from Seppic, and mixtures thereof. The amount of anti-acne agent can represent from 0.1 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 10% and even more preferably from 1 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of said anti-acne composition. acne. According to an alternative, said composition comprising at least one dihydrochalcone or one of its derivatives is applied to a skin weakened and / or altered by a mechanical treatment chosen from exfoliation and / or micro-abrasion, shaving, and / or hair removal. By "exfoliation" is meant in particular the application to the skin of a composition comprising at least abrasive fillers and / or exfoliating agents. Preferably, said composition is massaged on the skin, then rinsed.

Exfoliating or exfoliating particles of mineral, vegetable or organic origin may be mentioned in particular. Thus, for example, the balls or the polyethylene powder, such as those sold under the name Microthene MN 727 or Microthene MN 710-20 by the company Equistar or as the powder sold under the name Gotalene 120 Incolore 2 by the company Dupont. ; nylon particles such as those sold by Arkema under the name Orgasol 2002 EXD NAT COS; fibers such as polyamide fibers, such as those sold by the company Utexbel under the name Polymamide PULP 12185 SIZE 0.3 MM; polyvinyl chloride powder; pumice stone (INCI name: pumice) such as Eyraud's pumice 3 / B; hulls of crushed fruit stones such as crushed apricot kernels or nut hulls; sawdust; glass beads; alumina (aluminum oxide) (INCI name: Alumina), such as the product marketed under the name Dermagrain 900 by Marketech International, sugar crystals; beads which melt during application to the skin, such as, for example, spheres based on mannitol and cellulose sold under the names Unisphères by Induchem, agar capsules sold under the names Primasponge by the Cognis company, and spheres based on jojoba esters marketed under the names Florasphères by Floratech; and their mixtures.

The abrasive fillers and / or exfoliation agents may be present in an amount ranging for example from 0.5 to 20% by weight, preferably from 1 to 15% by weight, better still from 1 to 10% and even more preferably from 2 to 5% by weight. % by weight relative to the total weight of the exfoliating composition.

By 'micro-abrasion' or microdermabrasion is meant a type of exfoliation intended to resurface the superficial layers of the skin, via the application on the skin of a composition containing an effective amount of metal oxide particles, in particular magnesium oxide or aluminum oxide, which may for example be coated, in particular a silicone compound, but are preferably uncoated. In particular, said micro-abrasion composition will contain at least 2% by weight of metal oxide particles. Generally, the exfoliation and microabrasion compositions are applied to the skin, massaged and then rinsed. The skin is then generally dried before application of the composition comprising a dihydrochalcone or a derivative thereof. 'Shaving' and 'depilation' may use mechanical devices (manual razor, warm wax) or electrical devices ( electric razor).

According to another alternative, said composition comprising at least dihydrochalcone or one of its derivatives is applied to a skin weakened and / or impaired by a physical treatment of light radiation type (phototherapy) emitted by the lasers; IPL; and / or the LEDs.

By "light radiation" is meant in particular light radiation having wavelengths ranging from 400nm to 1000nm (spectrum covering the green, blue and red lights). It can be emitted by a Lasers device (Light Amplification by the Stimulated Emission of Radiation), IPL (Intense Pulse Light), LED (Light Emitting Diode).

According to the invention, said weakened and / or impaired skin may also have undergone combined chemical / mechanical, chemical / physical, or mechanical / physical or chemical / mechanical / physical treatments, as defined above. The composition according to the invention comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one of the dihydrochalcone or one of its derivatives, is applied in particular to skin areas weakened and / or altered by chemical, mechanical and / or physical treatment. . In particular, this will be the area of the facial skin. 25

Composition according to the invention comprising dihvdrochalcone or one of its derivatives (treatment or post-treatment)

The family of dihydrochalcones belongs to the class of flavonoids, virtually universal pigments of plants. All flavonoids have a common bio-synthetic origin and, therefore, possess the same basic structural element, namely the 2-phenylchroman linkage. They can be grouped in a dozen classes according to the degree of oxidation of the central pyranic nucleus. The dihydrochalcones have a diphenyl-1-propanone type structure which can be substituted by hydroxy groups, optionally glycosylated. The dihydrochalcones therefore have a structure of general formula (I) (1) in which: R 1 and R 2: same or different denote a hydrogen or a linear or branched C1-C4 alkyl radical, or a saccharide or oligosaccharide group, R3, R4: same or different; denote a hydrogen group, a hydroxyl group or a linear or branched C1-C4 alkoxy radical. Among the saccharide or oligosaccharide groups, mention may be made, for example, of hexosyl groups, in particular rhamnosyl or glucosyl, allosyl, altrosyl, galactosyl, gulosyl, idosyl, mannosyl, talosyl and pentosyl.

Among the C 1 -C 4 alkyl groups, mention may be made, for example, of methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, butyl and tert-butyl groups. Among the C1-C4 alkoxy groups, mention may be made, for example, of methoxy, ethoxy and propoxy groups.

Among the compounds of formula (I), use will be made more particularly of those selected from the following compounds of formula (II) and mixtures thereof: R 2. wherein: R, and R2: the same or different; denote a hydrogen, or a methyl radical, or a saccharide or oligosaccharide group; R3, R4: the same or different; denote a hydrogen, hydroxyl or methoxy group, as well as their derivatives.

Among the saccharide or oligosaccharide groups, mention may be made, for example, of hexosyl groups, in particular rhamnosyl or glucosyl, allosyl, altrosyl, galactosyl, gulosyl, idosyl, mannosyl, talosyl and pentosyl. Among the dihydrochalcones of general formula (I) or (II), mention may in particular be made and use in particular compounds 1 to 13 below: R ~ RZ R3 R4 Name (s) CAS PHLORETINE 1 HH OH H (gross formula C15H1405) 60-82-2 o ~ o NEOHESPERIDINE o ~ o 0 o DIHYDROCHALCONE 2070 2H OMe OH (Crude formula: C28H36015) 2-77- 6 HO OH OF PHLORIZINE 3H OH H (Crude formula: C21 H24O10) 60 H 81-1 4-METHOXY-2 ', 4', 6'-TRIHYDROXY 7617 I, 4H NMRH DIHYDROCHALCONE 2-68- H (Crude formula: C16H1605) 4 9 Me H OMe H 2 ', 6' -DI HYDROXY-4,4'-3524 DIMETHOXY 1-54-DIHYDROCHALCONE 4 (Formula C17H1805) H 6 OH OH 2 ', 4', 6 ', 3,4-PENTAHYDROXY 5776 DIHYDROCHALCONE 5-66- (Formula Crude: C15H14O6) 9HH OMe OMe 2 ', 4', 6'-TRIHYDROXY-3,4- 1242 DIMETHOXY 81-DIHYDROCHALCONE 55-6 (Crude formula: C17H18O6) ## STR1 ## o O ~ (crude formula: C27H34014) * p 9 HHHH 2 ', 4', 6'-TRIHYDROXY 1088-DIHYDROCHALCONE 088 (empirical formula: C15H1404) 08-0 2'-HYD ROXY-4 ', 6'-7 DIMETHOXY 3791- Me Me HH DIHYDROCHALCONE 2 (Crude Formula: C17H18O4) 2', 6'-DIHYDROXY-4,4'-dimethylmethylcarbamoyl (Crude formula: C17H18O5) 2 ', 6'-DIHYDROXY -4'-3524 METHOXY 12 HHH DIHYDROCHALCONE 1-55- (Crude formula: C16H16O4) H HESPERETIN 3540 13 H O OH DIHYDROCHALCONE 0-60- (Crude formula: C16H16O6 The invention therefore also relates to a process as described above in which the dihydrochalcone is chosen from phloretine, neohesperidine dihydrochalcone, phlorizine, 4-methoxy-2 ', 4', 6'-trihydroxydihydrochalcone, 2 ', 6'-Dihydroxy-4,4'-dimethoxydihydrochalcone, 2', 4 ', 6', 3,4-pentahydroxydihydrochalcone, 2 ', 4', 6'-Trihydroxy-3,4-dimethoxydihydrochalcone, Naringin dihydrochalcone, 2 ', 4', 6'-trihydroxydihydrochalcone, 2'-Hydroxy-4 ', 6'-dimethoxydihydrochalcone, 2', 6'-dihydroxy-4,4'-dimethoxydihydrochalcone, 2 ', 6'-Dihydroxy-4'-methoxydihydrochalcone, and Hesperetine dihydrochalcone .

Preferred dihydrochalcones according to the invention are Neohesperidin dihydrochalcone (DHC neohesperidin) and phloretin. DHC neohesperidin is a glycosylated flavonoid, which has the following structure: OH OH OH It is also known under its name IUPAC: 1- (4 - ((2-0- [6-Deoxy-aL-mannopyranosyl] - RDg lucopyranosyl) oxy) -2,6-dihydroxyphenyl) -3- [3-hydroxy-4-methoxyphenyl] -1-propanone.

The Neohesperidine DHC (CAS number 20702-77-6) can be obtained, in particular, from neohesperidin, which can be extracted from bitter orange (Citrus aurantium), or from naringine which is obtained from grapefruit (Citrus paradisii). Synthesis from the extracted neohesperidin involves hydrogenation in the presence of a catalyst under alkaline conditions. The synthesis from naringin is based on the conversion of naringine to phloroacetophenone-4'-8-neohesperidoside, which can be condensed with isovanillin (3-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzaldehyde) to produce neohesperidin (See following references: Borrego, F. Sweeteners (3rd edition), 2007, 67-77 and Borrego, F. Montijano, H. Food Science and Technology, 2001, 112 (Sweeteners Alternatives), 87-104).

The neohesperidin dihydrochalcone is in particular available under the commercial reference Neohesperidin DC from FERRER (Zoster).

Phloretin (CAS number 60-82-2) has the following structure: Phloretin is the aglycone form of Phloridzine, which is a secondary compound of the plant.

Phloretin can be obtained as follows: from the skin of grapes, narginine is extracted with ethanol. It is then hydrogenated to lead to naringindihydrochalcone which by hydrolysis will form phloretine. Phloretine is available in particular under the trade name 183784 Biotive Phloretin from Symrise. Neohesperidin dihydrochalcone such as phloretine may exist in hydrate form.

The term "dihydrochalcone derivative" means the hydrates of said dihydrochalcone, its particularly organic salts, the extracts containing said dihydrochalcone, the ethers of said dihydrochalcone and of a C1-C4 alcohol or the glycosylated forms of said dihydrochalcone.

The dihydrochalcone extracts can be crude extracts containing at least one dihydrochalcone or fractions enriched with at least one dihydrochalcone. Crude extracts of plants, in particular apples or apples, citrus fruits (in particular citrus aurantium), pear (pyrus malus), helichrysum (Helichysum splendidum), kalmia latifolia, Pieris japonica, Micromelum tephrocarpum, may be cited in particular. Lithophragma affine. The dihydrochalcone or one of its derivatives will be present in the composition of the invention (post-treatment) in an effective amount to achieve the desired effect on the expression of transglutaminase and / or filaggrin. In particular, it will be present in a content ranging from 0.01 to 10% by weight of active material, preferably from 0.05 to 5% and even more preferentially from 0.1 to 2% by weight of active ingredient per relative to the total weight of said composition.

According to one particular embodiment of the invention, neohesperidine dihydrochalcone is used in the composition of the invention. According to a particular embodiment of the invention, phloretin is used in the composition of the invention.

Galenic The composition (s) according to the invention (pre-treatment composition capable of altering the surface state of the skin and a dihydrochalcone post-treatment composition or a derivative thereof) may be cosmetic compositions or dermatological, advantageously cosmetic.

In particular, these are compositions intended for topical application to the skin.

They are formulated in a physiologically acceptable medium. The physiologically acceptable medium is preferably a cosmetically or dermatologically acceptable medium, that is to say without odor, color or unpleasant appearance, and which does not generate tingling, tightness or redness unacceptable to the user.

By physiologically acceptable medium, an environment compatible with keratin materials of human beings such as the skin, the mucous membranes, the nails, the scalp and / or the hair is understood.

The composition or compositions according to the invention may be in any of the galenical forms normally used in the cosmetic and dermatological fields, and in particular for topical application to the skin. They may especially be in the form of an aqueous solution, hydroalcoholic, optionally gelled, a dispersion of the lotion type possibly two-phase, an oil-in-water or water-in-oil or multiple emulsion, an aqueous gel , an oil dispersion in an aqueous phase using spherules, these spherules may be polymeric nanoparticles such as nanospheres and nanocapsules or, better, lipid vesicles of ionic and / or nonionic type, or else a powder. Thus, the composition or compositions may comprise all the constituents usually used in the intended application.

Mention may in particular be made of water, solvents, oils of mineral, animal and / or vegetable origin, in particular as detailed below, the waxes as described below, in particular pigments, fillers and surfactants. , cosmetic or dermatological active agents, UV filters, polymers, gelling agents, preservatives. Of course, those skilled in the art will take care to choose this or these optional additional compounds, and / or their quantity, in such a way that the advantageous properties of the compounds according to the invention are not, or not substantially, impaired by the addition envisaged. .

The compositions according to the invention advantageously contain at least one liquid fatty phase. Advantageously, the compositions according to the invention can be in the form of emulsions.

The compositions according to the invention may advantageously be in the form of an emulsion obtained by dispersing an aqueous phase in a fatty phase (W / O) or a fatty phase in an aqueous phase (O / W), liquid or semi-liquid consistency of the milk type, or of soft, semi-solid or solid consistency of the cream or gel type, or multiple emulsion (E / H / E or H / E / H). These compositions are prepared according to the usual methods. The compositions of this type may have the form of a care product or make-up of the face and / or the body, and may be packaged, for example, in the form of potted cream or fluid in a tube or in a pump bottle.

The emulsions generally contain at least one emulsifier chosen from amphoteric, anionic, cationic or nonionic emulsifiers, used alone or as a mixture. The emulsifiers are suitably selected according to the emulsion to be obtained (W / O or O / W). The emulsifiers are generally present in the composition, in a proportion ranging for example from 0.3 to 30% by weight, and preferably from 0.5 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. For the O / W emulsions, mention may be made, for example, as emulsifiers, of nonionic surfactants, and in particular saturated or unsaturated chain fatty acid and polyol esters containing, for example, from 8 to 24 carbon atoms and preferably from 12 to 24 carbon atoms. at 22 carbon atoms, and their oxyalkylenated derivatives, that is to say containing oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylene units, such as esters of glyceryl and of C 8 -C 24 fatty acid, and their oxyalkylenated derivatives; esters of polyethylene glycol and of C8-C24 fatty acid, and their oxyalkylenated derivatives; esters of sorbitol and of C8-C24 fatty acid, and their oxyalkylenated derivatives; esters of sugar (sucrose, glucose, alkylglucose) and C8-C24 fatty acid, and their oxyalkylenated derivatives; fatty alcohol ethers; sugar ethers and C8-C24 fatty alcohols, and mixtures thereof.

As examples of oils that may be used in the composition according to the invention, mention may be made of: hydrocarbon-based oils of animal origin, such as perhydrosqualene, hydrocarbon-based oils of plant origin, such as liquid triglycerides of fatty acids comprising from 4 to 10 carbon atoms, such as the triglycerides of heptanoic or octanoic acids, or else, for example, sunflower, corn, soya, squash, grape seed, sesame, hazelnut or apricot oils, macadamia, arara, sunflower, castor oil, avocado, triglycerides of caprylic / capric acids such as those sold by Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810, 812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel, jojoba oil, shea butter oil, esters and synthetic ethers, in particular of fatty acids, such as the oils of formulas R, 000R2 and R, OR2 in which R represents the residue of a fatty acid comprising from 8 to 29 carbon atoms, and R2 represents a hydrocarbon chain, branched or unbranched, containing from 3 to 30 carbon atoms, for example Purcellin oil, isononyl isononanoate or isopropyl myristate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, octyl-2-dodecyl stearate, octyl-2-dodecyl erucate, isostearyl isostearate; hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate, octyl hydroxystearate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate, diisostearyl malate, triisocetyl citrate, heptanoates, octanoates, decanoates of fatty alcohols; polyol esters, such as propylene glycol dioctanoate, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate and diethylene glycol diisononanoate; and pentaerythritol esters such as pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, such as paraffin oils, volatile or not, and their derivatives, isohexadecane, isododecane, petrolatum , polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam® oil, natural or synthetic essential oils such as, for example, eucalyptus, lavandin, lavender, vetiver, litsea cubeba, lemon oils , sandalwood, rosemary, chamomile, savory, nutmeg, cinnamon, hyssop, caraway, orange, geraniol, cade and bergamot, - fatty alcohols having from 8 to 26 carbon atoms, such as cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and their mixture (cetylstearyl alcohol), octyl dodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, oleic alcohol or alcohol linoleic, - partially fluorinated oils hydrocarbon and / or silicone fluents such as those described in document JP-A-2-295912, silicone oils such as volatile or non-volatile polymethylsiloxanes (PDMS) with a linear or cyclic silicone chain, which are liquid or pasty at room temperature, cyclopolydimethylsiloxanes (cyclomethicones) such as cyclohexasiloxane and cyclopentasiloxane; polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl, alkoxy or phenyl groups, during or at the end of the silicone chain, groups having from 2 to 24 carbon atoms; phenyl silicones such as phenyltrimethicones, phenyldimethicones, phenyltrimethylsiloxydiphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl-dimethicones, diphenylmethyldiphenyltrisiloxanes, 2-phenylethyltrimethylsiloxysilicates, and polymethylphenylsiloxanes, and mixtures thereof.

By hydrocarbon oil is meant in the list of oils mentioned above, any oil predominantly comprising carbon and hydrogen atoms, and optionally ester, ether, fluoro, carboxylic acid and / or alcohol groups. Other fatty substances that may be present in the oily phase are, for example, waxes and fatty acids containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, such as stearic acid, lauric acid, palmitic acid and oleic acid. As waxes that can be used according to the invention, mention may be made of waxes of animal origin such as beeswax, spermaceti, lanolin wax and lanolin derivatives, vegetable waxes such as wax of Carnauba, Candellila, Ouricury, Japan, cocoa butter or cork fiber or sugarcane waxes, mineral waxes, eg paraffin, petrolatum, lignite or microcrystalline waxes or ozokerites synthetic waxes, among which are polyethylene waxes, polytetrafluoroethylene waxes and waxes obtained by Fisher-Tropsch synthesis, or silicone waxes, hydrogenated oils that are solid at 25 ° C., such as hydrogenated castor oil, and oil. hydrogenated jojoba, hydrogenated palm oil, hydrogenated tallow, hydrogenated coconut oil and concrete fatty esters at 25 ° C such as C20-C40 alkyl stearate sold under the trade name Kester WAX K82H by the company KOSTER KEUNEN. These fatty substances may be chosen in a varied manner by those skilled in the art in order to prepare a composition having the desired properties, for example of consistency or texture. The compositions according to the invention may comprise a volatile oil. For the purposes of the invention, the term "volatile oil" means an oil capable of evaporating on contact with keratin materials in less than one hour at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure. The volatile organic solvent (s) and the volatile oils of the invention are organic solvents and volatile cosmetic oils which are liquid at ambient temperature and have a non-zero vapor pressure at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure, in particular ranging from 0 to 13 Pa at 40,000 Pa (10-3 to 300 mmHg), in particular ranging from 1.3 Pa to 13 000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mmHg), and more particularly ranging from 1.3 Pa. at 1300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mmHg). Volatile oils which may be mentioned include, among others, cyclic or linear silicones containing from 2 to 6 silicon atoms, such as cyclohexasiloxane, dodecamethylpentasiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane, butyltrisiloxane and ethyltrisiloxane. It is also possible to use branched hydrocarbons such as isododecane as well as volatile perfluoroalkanes such as dodecafluoropentane and tetradecafluorohexane, sold under the names PF 5050 and PF 5060 by the company 3M and perfluoromorpholine derivatives, such as 4- trifluoromethyl perfluoromorpholine sold under the name PF 5052 by the company 3M. The amount of oily phase present in the compositions according to the invention may range, for example, from 0.01 to 50% by weight and preferably from 0.1 to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

The compositions according to the invention may further comprise at least one dyestuff chosen, for example, from pigments, nacres, dyes, effect materials and their mixtures.

These dyestuffs may be present in a content ranging from 0.01% to 50% by weight, preferably from 0.01% to 30% relative to the total weight of the composition.

The compositions according to the invention may also comprise a filler, in particular in a content ranging from 0.01% to 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 0.01% to 30% by weight. These fillers can be mineral or organic of any form, platelet, spherical or oblong, whatever the crystallographic form (for example sheet, cubic, hexagonal, orthorhombic, or amorphous). There may be mentioned silica, talc, mica, kaolin, lauroyl-lysine, starch, boron nitride, PTFE powders, PMMA powders, methyl silsesquioxane resin powders (such as Tospearl 145A of GE Silicone), hollow hemispherical silicone resin particles (such as Takemoto Oil and Fat's NLK 500, NLK 506 and NLK 510), barium sulfate, precipitated calcium carbonate, carbonate and hydrochloride. magnesium carbonate, hydroxyapatite, glass or ceramic microcapsules, metal soaps derived from organic carboxylic acids having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 18 carbon atoms, for example zinc stearate; , magnesium or lithium, zinc laurate, magnesium myristate.

The composition or compositions according to the invention may also contain various adjuvants commonly used in the cosmetics field, such as sequestering agents; perfumes ; and thickeners and gelling agents. The amounts of these various adjuvants and their nature will be chosen so as not to affect the properties of the composition.

Additional assets Advantageously, the composition (s) (aggressive pre-treatment composition and post-treatment composition with dihydrochalcone or one of its derivatives) according to the invention may also comprise at least one selected cosmetic or dermatological active agent. among UV-screening agents, moisturizing agents, desquamating agents, barrier-improving agents, depigmenting agents, antioxidants, dermodecontracting or dermorelaxing agents, anti-glycation agents, agents stimulating the synthesis of dermal macromolecules and / or or epidermal and / or preventing their degradation, agents stimulating proliferation of fibroblasts or keratinocytes and / or differentiation of keratinocytes, agents promoting the maturation of the horny envelope, inhibitors of NO-synthases, peripheral receptor antagonists benzodiazepines (PBRs), the agents that increase glan activity sebaceous agents, agents stimulating energy metabolism of cells, sebum regulating agents, antimicrobial agents, soothing agents and mixtures thereof. These additional active agents may be present in the composition in a content ranging from 0.001% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.01% to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 0.01% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight. of the composition.

According to one particular variant of the invention, the dihydrochalcone or one of its derivatives according to the invention is used in conjunction with at least one active agent chosen from UV screening agents, moisturizing agents, antioxidant agents and stimulating agents. synthesis of dermal and / or epidermal macromoleculars, soothing agents and mixtures thereof. In the case of a care for oily skin, it may be further advantageous to use sebo-regulating agents, antimicrobial agents, and mixtures thereof in combination with the dihydrochalcone or one of its derivatives. These additional active agents may be present in the composition in a content ranging from 0.001% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.01% to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 0.01% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight. of the composition.

Examples of additional assets are given below for illustrative purposes. UV Filters As an illustration of the UV filters, and in a nonlimiting manner, mention may be made of the following families: anthranilates, in particular menthyl anthranilate; benzophenones, in particular benzophenone-1, benzophenone-3, benzophenone-5, benzophenone-6, benzophenone-8, benzophenone-9, benzophenone-12, and preferentially benzophenone-2 (oxybenzone), or Benzophenone-4 (Uvinul MS40 available from BASF); benzylidenecamphers, in particular 3-benzylidene camphor, benzylidenecamphosulfonic acid, camphor benzalkonium methosulphate, polyacrylamidomethylbenzylidene camphor, terephthalylidene di-camphorsulfonic acid, and preferentially 4-methylbenzylidene camphor (Eusolex 6300 available). at Merck); benzimidazoles, in particular benzimidazilate (Neo Heliopan AP available from Haarmann and Reimer), or phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid (Eusolex 232 available from Merck); benzotriazoles, in particular trisiloxane drometzol, or methylene bis-benzotriazolyltetramethylbutylphenol (Tinosorb M available from Ciba); cinnamates, in particular cinoxate, DEA methoxycinnamate, diisopropyl methylcinnamate, dimethoxycinnamate glyceryl ethylhexanoate, isopropyl methoxycinnamate, isoamyl cinnamate, and preferably ethocrylene (Uvinul N35 available from BASF), octyl methoxycinnamate (Parsol MCX available from Hoffmann La Roche), or octocrylene (Uvinul 539 available from BASF); dibenzoylmethanes, especially butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane (Parsol 1789); imidazolines, in particular ethylhexyl dimethoxybenzylidene dioxoimidazoline; PABAs, in particular ethyl dihydroxypropyl PABA, ethylhexyldimethyl PABA, glyceryl PABA, PABA, PEG-25 PABA, and preferentially diethylhexylbutamido-triazone (Uvasorb HEB available from 3V Sigma), ethylhexyltriazone (Uvinul T150 available from BASF), or ethyl PABA (benzocaine); salicylates, especially dipropylene glycol salicyclate, ethylhexyl salicylate, homosalate, or TEA salicylate; triazines, in particular anisotriazine (Tinosorb S available from Ciba); trisiloxane drometrizole, zinc oxide, titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, iron, zirconium, cerium coated or uncoated.

Preferably, cinnamates, salicylates and mixtures thereof are used. The amount of filters depends on the desired end use. It may range, for example, from 1 to 20% by weight and better still from 2 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition containing it.

Moisturizing agents As moisturizing agents, one will choose in particular an agent chosen from glycerol, urea and its derivatives including Hydrovance marketed by National Starch, hyaluronic acid, AHA, BHA, homopolymers of acrylic acid such as Lipidure-HM from NOF Corporation, beta-glucan and in particular sodium carboxymethyl beta-glucan from Mibelle-AG-Biochemistry; a mixture of passionflower, apricot, corn and rice bran oils marketed by Nestlé under the name NutraLipids. ; a C-glycoside derivative such as those described in patent application WO 02/051828 and in particular C-3-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane in the form of a solution containing 30% by weight of active material in a mixture water / propylene glycol (60/40% by weight) such as the product manufactured by CHIMEX under the trade name MEXORYL SBB; a muscat rose oil marketed by Nestlé; an extract of microalga Prophyridium cruentum enriched in zinc marketed by Vincience under the name Algualane Zinc; spheres of collagen and chondroitin sulfate of marine origin (Ateocollagen) marketed by Engelhard Lyon under the name marine filling spheres; spheres of hyaluronic acid such as those marketed by Engelhard Lyon; and arginine.

According to one particular embodiment, C-6-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxy-propane will be used in the form of a solution containing 30% by weight of active material in a water / propylene glycol mixture (60/40% by weight) as the product manufactured by CHIMEX under the trade name MEXORYL SBB °.

Antioxidant Agents As preferred antioxidant agent, mention may more particularly be made of tocopherol (vit E) and its derivatives, in particular its esters, and preferably tocopherol acetate; ascorbic acid and its derivatives, in particular ascorbyl magnesium phosphate and ascorbyl glucoside; retinol and its esters, in particular retinyl palmitate, chelating agents, such as BHT, BHA, N, N'-bis (3,4,5-trimethoxybenzyl) ethylenediamine and its salts, polyphenols, and mixtures thereof . Even more preferentially, tocopherol and its esters, retinol and its esters and their mixtures will be used.

Assets stimulating the synthesis of dermal and / or epidermal macromolecules and / or preventing their degradation As preferred active agents stimulating the synthesis of dermal and / or epidermal macromolecules and / or preventing their degradation, mention may be made of: peptides extracted from plants, such as soya hydrolyzate marketed by the company Coletica under the trade name Phytokine malt extract as marketed under the name Collalift by the company Engelhard Lyon; rice peptides such as Nutripeptide from SILAB, or an extract of rice peptides such as Pentapharm's Colhibin, methylsilanol mannuronate such as Algisium C marketed by Exsymol; retinol and its esters, in particular retinol palmitate; an extract of vaccinium myrtillus such as those described in application FR-A-2814950; the lupine extract marketed by Silab under the trade name Structurine, a C-glycoside derivative such as those described in application WO 02/051828 and in particular C-8-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane under form of a solution containing 30% by weight of active material in a water / propylene glycol mixture (60/40% by weight), such as the product manufactured by Chimex under the trade name MEXORYL SBB, vitamin C and its derivatives, and their mixtures. In particular, use retinol or one of its esters, including retinol palmitate.

Soothing active ingredients A soothing agent is a compound that reduces the sensation of tingling, itching, or tightness of the skin. As soothing agents, mention may be made of b-glycyrrhetinic acid and its salts or derivatives (stearyl glycyrrhetate, 3-stearoyloxy glycyrrhetic acid, glycyrrhetinic monoglucuronide acid) as well as the plants containing it (eg Glycyrrhiza glabra); ursolic acid and its salts; extracts of Centella asiatica, canola oil, bisabolol; chamomile extracts, allantoin; a mixture of water lily flower extract and palmitoylproline such as that sold under the name Seppicalm VG by the company Seppic; aloe vera, rose water, a mint extract, in particular mint leaves such as Silab's Calmiskin, filamentous bacteria such as Vitreoscilla filiformis as described in patent EP 761 204 and marketed by Chimex under the name Mexoryl SBG, an extract of rose petals such as Rose Flower Herbasol extract from Cosmetochem, shea butter, a fermented extract of Alteromonas marketed under the name ABYSSINE by the company Atrium Biotechnologies; thermal or mineral waters having a mineralization of at least 300 mg / l, in particular Avène water, Vittel water, Vichy basin water, Uriage water, water from La Roche Posay, the water of the Bourboule, the water of Enghien-les-Bains, the water of Saint-Gervais-les Bains, the water of Néris-les-Bains, the water of Allevard- the baths, the water of Digne, the water of the Maizières, the water of Neyrac-les-bains, the water of Lons le Saunier, the Good Waters, the water of Rochefort, the water of Saint Christau , the water of Fumades and the water of Tercis-les-bains; an extract of Eperua falcata bark such as that marketed by the company COGNIS under the name Eperuline; an extract of Paeonia suffructicosa root such as that marketed by the company Ichimaru Pharcos under the name Botanpi Liquid B; and their mixtures. Preferably, the waters of the Vichy basin or the water of the Riche Posay will be used. Sebo-reqlating agents Sebum-regulating agents include: - sea fennel; mixtures of cinnamon extract, tea and octanoylglycine such as Sepicontrol A5 TEA from Seppic; - the mixture of capryloyl glycine, sarcosine and extract cinnamomum zeylanicum marketed in particular by the company SEPPIC under the trade name Sepicontrol A5; zinc salts such as zinc gluconate, zinc pyrrolidone carboxylate (or zinc pidolate), zinc lactate, zinc aspartate, zinc carboxylate, zinc salicylate, zinc cysteate; copper salts, in particular copper pidolate; - meadowsweet extracts (Spiraea ulamaria) such as that sold under the name Sébonormine by the company Silab; algae extracts laminaria saccharina such as that sold under the name Phlorogine by the company Biotechmarine; mixtures of extracts of burnet root (Sanguisorba officinalis / Poterium officinale), of ginger rhizomes (Zingiber officinalis) and of cinnamon bark (Cinnamomum cassia), such as that sold under the name Sebustop by the company Solabia; sapogenins or plant extracts containing them, in particular Dioscenyl-rich Dioscorea extracts, and mixtures thereof.

Anti-microbial agents By anti-microbial agents are meant agents having effects on the specific flora of oily skin, such as, for example, P acnes. These effects can be either bactericidal or bacterial anti-adhesion (prevents and / or reduces the adhesion of microorganisms) or acting on the biofilm of bacteria to prevent their multiplication.

It is possible to mention and use in particular the active agents and preservatives with antimicrobial activity mentioned in application DE10324567, incorporated in the present invention by reference. It may also be mentioned 10-hydroxy-2 decanoic acid such as Vincience Acnacidol P, sodium ursolate, azelaic acid, di-iodomethyl P tolylsulfone or Angus Flowable Amical, powder Malachite de Maprecos, zinc oxide such as Zincare from Elementis GMBH, octadecenedioic acid such as arlatone dioic DCA from Uniqema, phthalimidoperoxyhexanoic acid or Eureco HC from Chemron Corporation; ellagic acid; 2,4,4'-trichloro-2'-hydroxy diphenyl ether (or triclosan), 1- (3 ', 4'-dichlorophenyl) -3- (4'-chlorophenyl) urea (or triclocarban), 3 4,4'-trichlorocarbanilide, 3 ', 4', 5'-trichlorosalicylanilide, phenoxyethanol, phenoxypropanol, phenoxyisopropanol, benzoyl peroxide, 3-hydroxybenzoic acid, 4-hydroxybenzoic acid, phytic acid, N-acetyl-L-cysteine, lipoic acid, azelaic acid and its salts, arachidonic acid, resorcinol, 3,4,4'-trichlorocarbanalide, octopirox or piroctone olamine, octoxyglycerine or octoglycerine, octanoylglycine (Lipacid C8G from Seppic), caprylyl glycol, 10-hydroxy-2-decanoic acid, dichlorophenyl imidazol dioxolan and its derivatives described in patent application WO9318743, derivatives zinc and in particular zinc pidolate (Zincidone de Solabia), copper derivatives and in particular copper pidolate (Cuivridone de Solabia), salicylic acid and its derivatives ivés, iodopropynyl butylcarbamate, 3,7,11-trimethyldodeca-2,5,10-trienol or farnesol, phytosphingosines; Seppic Sepicontrol, an argan extract such as Argapure LS9710, Sebosoft Sederma, quaternary ammonium salts such as cetyltrimethylammonium salts, cetylpyridinium salts, ethanol ... and mixtures thereof.

According to one particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention, used in post-treatment of an aggressive treatment of chemical, mechanical and / or physical type, comprises at least dihydrochalcone or one of its derivatives, and a complementary active agent. selected from a UV filter, a moisturizing agent, an antioxidant, an active agent stimulating the synthesis of dermal and / or epidermal macromolecules and / or preventing their degradation, a sebum regulating agent, a soothing agent and mixtures thereof.

According to a preferred embodiment, said composition according to the invention comprises at least dihydrochalcone and at least one complementary active agent chosen from glycerol, vitamin C and its derivatives, vitamin E and its derivatives, C-8-D-xylopyranoside -2-hydroxy-propane, the thermal waters of Vichy or Roche Posay, and their mixtures.

A composition in accordance with the present invention may comprise one or more additional active agents among those mentioned above in a content ranging from 0.001% to 20% and preferably from 0.01% to 10%, even more preferentially from 0.05 to 5% by weight. relative to the total weight of the composition.

The invention also relates to a cosmetic process for the care and / or treatment of the skin comprising successively and / or staggered in time: a) a cosmetic pre-treatment step of a chemical and / or mechanical nature and / or skin physics as defined previously that may alter the surface condition of the skin; optionally followed by a rinsing step of the skin; b) a post-treatment step comprising the topical application, in particular on the skin areas treated in step a), of a care composition comprising at least one dihydrochalcone or one of its derivatives.

Examples of cosmetic treatment of chemical nature (peeling), mechanical (exfoliation / micro-abrasion, shaving, hair removal) and / or physical (phototherapy) likely to alter the surface state of the skin, in particular to alter the cohesion and / or the organization of the stratum corneum are described previously in the description.

According to one particular embodiment, the process according to the invention comprises, successively or staggered over time: a) topical application to the skin, in particular at the level of the face, of a peeling-type pre-treatment composition comprising at least one desquamating agent chosen from AHAs and derivatives, BHAs and derivatives, and mixtures thereof; followed by a rinsing step of the skin; and then b) the topical application, in particular on the skin zones treated in step a), of a post-treatment care composition comprising at least one dihydrochalcone or one of its derivatives, and optionally a complementary active agent chosen from a UV filter, a moisturizing agent, an antioxidant, an active agent stimulating the synthesis of dermal and / or epidermal macromolecules and / or preventing their degradation, a sebum regulating agent, a soothing agent and mixtures thereof.

In particular, the desquamating agent is present in the composition of step a), at a content of at least 3% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition, in particular from 3 to 30% and preferably from 3 to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition. Advantageously, the desquamating agent is selected from urea, HEPES, glycolic acid and mixtures thereof.

According to a preferred embodiment of the invention: the pre-treatment composition used in step a) comprises, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one AHA, in particular glycolic acid; the post-treatment composition of step b) comprises, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one dihydrochalcone and at least one complementary active agent chosen from glycerol, vitamin C and its derivatives, vitamin E and its derivatives, C-6-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxy-propane, the thermal waters of Vichy or Roche Posay, and their mixtures.

The chemical, mechanical and / or physical pre-treatment can be carried out from once a day to once a month. Care (post-treatment) with dihydrochalcone or one of its derivatives may be applied to skin weakened and / or impaired by chemical, mechanical and / or physical pre-treatment, one to two times per day, during a duration of 1 to 4 weeks.

The methods according to the invention, in one step (post-treatment with dihydrochalcone of a weakened and / or impaired skin) or in two stages (step a) of aggressive treatment and then step b) care after treatment with dihydrochalcone ), are intended in particular to improve the texture, the surface, the suppleness, the softness, the hydration, the homogeneity, the brightness of the complexion, and / or the transparency of the skin.

The invention also relates to the cosmetic use of a dihydrochalcone or a derivative thereof in a composition containing a physiologically acceptable medium, as an agent intended to improve the surface condition of an altered and / or weakened skin by chemical, mechanical and / or physical treatment.

In particular, the dihydrochalcone or one of its derivatives improves the cohesion and / or organization of the stratum corneum of said skin altered and / or weakened by a chemical, mechanical and / or physical treatment.

Another object of the invention is a skin care and / or treatment kit or kit comprising: (i) a first composition comprising an agent selected from a desquamating agent, an exfoliating agent, an anti-acne agent, capable of weakening and / or altering the surface condition of the skin, and (ii) a second composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one dihydrochalcone or a derivative thereof. It can be a set or cosmetic kit, or dermatological.

Examples of preferred desquamating, exfoliating, anti-acne agents are described previously in the description. The contents of dihydrochalcone and desquamating agents, exfoliants, anti-acne are described above in the description.

According to one particular embodiment, the first composition comprises at least one desquamating agent chosen from α-hydroxy acids (AHA) such as citric, lactic, glycolic, malic, tartaric or mandelic acid; p-hydroxyacids (BHA) such as salicylic acid or n-octanoyl-5-salicylic acid; urea; aminosulfonic compounds and in particular (N-2-hydroxyethylpiperazine-N-2-ethane) sulfonic acid (HEPES); and derivatives of 2-oxothiazolidine-4-carboxylic acid (procysteine), and mixtures thereof. Urea, glycolic acid, HEPES and mixtures thereof are preferred. The amount of desquamating agent (s) may represent from 3 to 30%, in particular from 3 to 15% by weight of the peel composition.

The second composition comprises at least dihydrochalcone in a content ranging from 0.01 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of said second composition.

The first and second compositions for the implementation of this cosmetic assembly are packaged separately inside two compartments, formed either by two separate containers or inside a unitary device. The container (s) may be in any suitable form. II (s) can be in particular in the form of a bottle, a tube, a jar, a case, a box, a bag or a case. By unitary device is meant a device by which the two compartments or containers are integral with each other. Such a device can be obtained by a method of molding in one piece of the two compartments, in particular a thermoplastic material. It can also result from any form of assembly, especially by gluing, welding, or other snapping.

According to an alternative, the invention relates to a cosmetic assembly or shaving and / or hair removal kit comprising: (i) a shaving and / or hair removal device capable of weakening and / or altering the condition surface of the skin, and (ii) a composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one dihydrochalcone or one of its derivatives. According to yet another alternative, the invention relates to a cosmetic or dermatological skin care kit or kit comprising: (i) a device of the Laser, IPL, LED type emitting in particular a light radiation ranging from 400 to 1000 nm capable of weakening and and / or altering the surface state of the skin, and (ii) a composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one dihydrochalcone or one of its derivatives.

The examples which follow serve to illustrate the invention without, however, being limiting in nature. The compounds are, as the case may be, listed in chemical names or CTFA names (International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook).

EXAMPLES

Example 1 Measurement of the Effect of Neohesperidin Dihydrochalcone and Phloretine on the Expression of Markers of Keratin Differentiation

Principle

Study of the expression of transglutaminase K and filaggrin on culture of normal human epidermal keratinocytes.

Protocol Normal human keratinocytes (NHEK) were seeded in 96-well plates and cultured in Keratinocyte-SFM medium (SFM, Invitrogen containing EGF 0.25 ng / ml, Pituitary extract 25 μg / ml and Gentamycin 25 μg / ml) at 37 ° C. and 5% CO2 for 24 hours. After incubation, the culture medium was removed and replaced with culture medium containing or not (control) the test product (on the one hand the neohesperidine dihydrochalcone FERRER company at a concentration of 1 μg / ml and on the other hand, SYMRISE Phloretine at the concentration of 0.5 μg / ml) or the references, respectively anti-differentiating (retinoic acid of Sigma) and pro-differentiating (Calcium chloride of the company). Prolabo). The cells were then incubated at 37 ° C for 72h. Each experimental condition was carried out in triplicate. The analysis was performed by immunostaining and image analysis. The cell mats were labeled with the primary antibody corresponding to each selected marker: anti-TGK antibody (Tebu) and anti-filaggrin antibody (Tebu), 1 hour at room temperature, then revealed by a rabbit-FITC anti-immunoglobulin secondary antibody. or mouse anti-immunoglobulin-FITC (Tebu). Controls without primary antibody (secondary antibody alone) were performed to verify the absence of non-specific labeling. In parallel, the nuclei were stained by incubation with a solution of Hoechst dye (Sigma). The analysis of the different fluorescent markings was carried out using a high resolution InCell AnalyzerTM 1000 imaging system by measuring 4 zones per well. The overall green intensity, representative of the expression of TGK or filaggrin according to the test, was related to the number of (blue) nuclei in order to determine a fluorescence intensity per cell. Raw data is transferred and processed using the Graph Pad Software (PRISM). Intergroup comparisons were performed using an analysis of variance (ANOVA) followed by Dunnett's multiple comparison test.

Results Treatment Concentration Filaggrine% control Transglutaminase TGK% control Control 100 100 CaCl2 1.5 mM 373 192 Retinoic acid 10- 'M 10 31 Neohesperidin 1 μg / ml 227 151 DHC Phloretin 0.5 μg / ml 311 167 Treatment with chloride Calcium significantly increased the expression of the markers of differentiation studied: this pro-differentiating effect was expected and validates the test.

Treatment with retinoic acid markedly decreased the expression of the differentiation markers studied: this anti-differentiating effect was expected and validates the test.

Treatment with neohesperidin dihydrochalcone at 1 μg / ml significantly stimulated TGK expression by 51% over control and filaggrin by 127% over control. Treatment with phloretin at 0.5 μg / ml significantly stimulated TGK expression by 67% over control and filaggrin by 211% over control.

These results show that neohesperidin dihydrochalcone and phloretin stimulate the differentiation of keratinocytes (pro-differentiating effect). This beneficial effect on keratinocytes is exploited in the invention to improve the appearance (homogeneity, brightness, transparency) and / or texture (flexibility, hydration, of a weakened skin and / or impaired in particular by a chemical treatment and / or mechanical and / or physical.

Example 2: Examples of compositions and kit The compositions described below are prepared according to the conventional methods of cosmetic preparations. Unless otherwise indicated, the percentages (%) are expressed by weight of raw material relative to the total weight of said composition. - Phloretine serum Phloretine 2% Phenoxy-2 ethanol 1% Denatured ethyl alcohol 10% Water gsp100% Propylene glycol 10% 1,2-pentanediol 20% Preservative qs Perfume qs This serum is applied daily to a skin, in addition to anti-acne treatment. - Phloretine serum and Pro-xvlane Phloretine 2% Pro-xylan 10% Phenoxy-2 ethanol 1% Denatured ethyl alcohol 10% Water qs 100% Propylene glycol 10% 1,2-pentanediol 20% Preservative qs Perfume qs This serum is applied daily on the face, in addition to a cleaning and / or peeling treatment.

- Neohesperidine emulsion DHC and retinol Neohesperidine DHC Retinol Mono / glyceryl distearate PEG stearate Cetyl alcohol Stearyl alcohol Hydrogenated isoparaffin Water Cyclopenta dimethylsiloxane 30 Carboxyvinyl polymer Triethanolamine Preservative Perfume This emulsion is applied to the desquamating treatment. 0.5% 0.1% 2.5% 2.5% 1% 1% 5% qs 100% 15% 0.3% 0.3% qs qs daily on a skin, in addition to a 10 5 Mono / glyceryl distearate PEG stearate Cetyl alcohol Stearyl alcohol Isoparaffin hydrogenated Cyclopenta dimethylsiloxane Carboxyvinyl polymer Triethanolamine Water Preservative Fragrance This emulsion 1% 5% qs 100% 15% 0.3% 0.3% qs qs is applied in addition to a treatment by phototherapy. 2.5% 2.5% 1% - neohesperidine emulsion DHC Neohesperidine DHC 0.5% 15

- Serum Neohesperidine DHC and Vitamin C Neohesperidine DHC 1% Vitamin C 5% 20 Denatured ethyl alcohol 10% Water qs 100% Propylene glycol 10% 1,2-pentanediol 20% Preservative 25 Perfume This serum is applied daily, in addition to an desquamating treatment .

- Solar emulsion Mono / Glyceryl distearate / Polyethylene glycol (1000E) 1% Stearic acid 1% Iso-hexadecane 2% C12 / C15 alcohols 3% Cyclopentasiloxane 5% Octocrylene 3% qs qs TiO2 Copolymer acrylic acid / Stearyl methacrylate Xanthane Copolymer vinylpyrrolidone Eicosene Polydimethylsiloxane Vitamin E Polymethylene wax Cirebelle 303 Terephthalene Dicamphor Sulfonic Acid (Mexoryl SX) Glycerol Propylene glycol Triethanolamine Mono-cetyl mono-potassium phosphate Water Preservative Chelating Fragrance Phloretin This solar composition is applied1 %

0.25% 0.1% 1% 1% gsp100% qs 0.1% qs 0.5% on skin weakened and / or altered by shaving, and preferably before and / or during sun exposure. Kit of peelinq

Peel composition 30 Urea 10% Glycolic acid 0.5% HEPES 10% Glycerol 8.5% Polyethylene glycol (6OE) 44% 35 Hydroxyethylcellulose 1% Denatured ethyl alcohol 3% Preservatives 1% 25 34 Water qs 100% Post-peel care 1% Neohesperidine DHC Centella asiatica extract 0.5% Glycerol 10% Propylene glycol 10% 1,2-pentanediol 20% Preservative qs Perfume qs Water qs 100% The peel composition is applied to the skin of the face, usually 1 to 2 times per week ; it is left in contact with the skin for 3 to 10 minutes before being rinsed.

Neohesperidin dihydrochalcone care is applied to the skin treated with the peel composition after being rinsed and dried. This treatment is advantageously used daily.

Claims (14)

REVENDICATIONS1. Cosmetic process for the care of a skin weakened and / or impaired, in particular by a chemical, mechanical and / or physical treatment, comprising the application to said weakened and / or weathered skin of a composition comprising in a physiologically acceptable medium, at minus one dihydrochalcone or one of its derivatives. 2. Method according to claim 1, wherein said composition comprising at least one dihydrochalcone or one of its derivatives is applied to a skin weakened and / or altered by a chemical treatment chosen from a peel and / or an anti-acne treatment . 3. Method according to claim 1, wherein said composition comprising at least one dihydrochalcone or one of its derivatives is applied to a skin weakened and / or altered by a mechanical treatment selected from exfoliation, micro-abrasion, shaving , and / or hair removal. 4. The method of claim 1, wherein said composition comprising at least one dihydrochalcone or a derivative thereof is applied to a skin weakened and / or impaired by a physical treatment of the type of light radiation emitted by the lasers; IPL; and / or the LEDs. 5. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, in which said dihydrochalcone is chosen from phioretine, neohesperidine dihydrochalcone, phlorizine, 4-methoxy-2 ', 4', 6'-trihydroxydihydrochalcone, 2 ', 6'. 4,4'-dihydroxy-4,4'-dimethoxydihydrochalcone, 21,41,61,3,4-pentahydroxydihydrochalcone, 2 ', 4', 6'-Trihydroxy-3,4-dimethoxydihydrochalcone, Naringin dihydrochalcone, 2 ', 4 ', 6'-trihydroxydihydrochalcone, 2'-Hydroxy-4', 6'-dimethoxydihydrochalcone, 21,6'-Dihydroxy-4,4'-dimethoxydihydrochalcone, 2 ', 6'-Dihydroxy-4'-methoxydihydrochalcone , and Hesperetine dihydrochalcone. The process of claim 4 wherein said dihydrochalcone is neohesperidin dihydrochalcone. The method of claim 4, wherein said dihydrochalcone is Phloretine. 8. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the dihydrochalcone or one of its derivatives is present in the composition in a content ranging from 0.01 to 10% by weight of active material, preferably from 0 to 05 to 5% by weight of active material and even more preferably from 0.1 to 2% by weight of active material relative to the total weight of said composition. 9. A cosmetic process for the care and / or treatment of the skin comprising successively and / or staggered in time: a) a step of cosmetic pre-treatment of a chemical and / or mechanical and / or physical nature of the skin such as as defined in one of claims 2 to 4; optionally followed by a rinsing step of the skin; b) a post-treatment step comprising the topical application, in particular on the skin areas treated in step a), of a care composition comprising at least one dihydrochalcone or one of its derivatives. A method as claimed in any one of the preceding claims for improving the texture, surface, suppleness, softness, hydration, homogeneity, radiance of the complexion, and / or the transparency of the skin. 11. Cosmetic use of a dihydrochalcone or a derivative thereof in a composition containing a physiologically acceptable medium, as an agent intended to improve the surface state of an altered and / or weakened skin by a chemical, mechanical and / or physical. 12. Use according to claim 11, wherein said dihydrochalcone or one of its derivatives improves the cohesion and / or the organization of the stratum corneum of said skin altered and / or weakened by a chemical, mechanical and / or physical treatment . 13. Use according to one of claims 11 or 12, wherein said dihydrochalcone is selected from phloretine and neohesperidin dihydrochalcone. 14. Set or care kit and / or skin treatment comprising: (i) a first composition comprising an agent chosen from a desquamating agent, an exfoliating agent, an anti-acne agent, capable of weakening and / or altering the skin. surface state of the skin, and (ii) a second composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one dihydrochalcone or one of its derivatives.