FR2926991A1 - Composition, useful e.g. to protect the skin and/or integuments from effects of oxidative stress, preferably effects of UV radiation, toxins and/or pollution, comprises plant extract of Gentianaceae family and superoxide dismutase - Google Patents

Abstract

Composition comprises plant extract of Gentianaceae family and superoxide dismutase (SOD), in a medium. An independent claim is included for a cosmetic treatment of skin and/or integuments, comprising applying the composition on the skin and/or integuments. ACTIVITY : Dermatological. MECHANISM OF ACTION : None given.

Description

The field of the invention relates to the protection of the skin and / or its integuments against the effects of oxidative stress.

By 'skin' is meant the skin of the face and / or the body, the scalp and the semimuqueuses (lips). By 'dander', we mean hair, hair, eyelashes, nails, and preferably hair.

The invention relates in particular to a composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one plant extract of the Gentianaceae family and at least one superoxide dismutase. It also relates to a cosmetic process using said composition aimed in particular to protect the skin and / or its integuments against the effects of oxidative stress, in particular induced by UV and / or toxins and / or pollution.

Oxidative stress is the result of an imbalance between the production of reactive oxygen species, including the superoxide anion, hydrogen peroxide and the hydroxyl radical, and the antioxidant mechanisms of cellular defense, using enzymes (superoxide dismutase, catalase, glutathione peroxidase) or non-enzymatic antioxidant systems.

SOD superoxide dismutases are enzymes capable of inducing the disproportionation of superoxide ions, following the reaction: 200-2 + 2H + - * H2O2 + 02 SODs act against oxygen free radicals. The superoxide ion 0 ° -2 (active oxygen) is a radical ion whose instability and reactivity make it a toxic compound, because it generates hydroxyl free radicals (° OH), especially in the presence of metal ions. highly harmful. Superoxide dismutases exert a protective effect including trapping superoxide ions and thus constitute a biological defense system against the harmful effects of oxygen free radicals.

Oxidative stress is particularly related to external agents such as ultraviolet radiation, pollution, heat stress or various toxins such as chemicals with which the skin may be in contact (tobacco, heavy metals, air pollutants, etc.). ).

Oxidative stress and in particular UV radiation also play a role in the melanogenesis and pigmentation of the skin, directly (UV effect on the activation of tyrosinase) or indirectly (UV effect on the production of free radicals). , capable of non-enoxymatically oxidizing the derivatives of DOPA (dihydroxyphenylalanine)) or by promoting the known inflammation to accentuate the pigmentation of the skin. The effects of oxidative stress are particularly visible on skins with high phototypes (IV to VI) and Asian skins, which are characterized by a greater number and size of melanocytes than those of fair skin.

It is also known that the toxicity of atmospheric pollutants, in particular gaseous pollutants such as sulfur dioxide, ozone and nitrogen oxides, is linked to their activity as initiators of free radicals, which are the source of oxidation phenomena. causing living beings cellular damage. The cells of organs that are in direct and permanent contact with the external environment, such as the skin, the scalp and certain mucous membranes, are particularly sensitive to these effects of gaseous pollutants, which result in particular in accelerated aging of the skin, with a lack of radiance and early formation of wrinkles and fine lines, and also a decrease in vigor and dullness of the hair.

The production of reactive oxygen species therefore causes damage to the DNA, proteins or lipids, notably contributing to accelerate cellular aging of the skin and / or its integuments.

In particular, the effects of oxidative stress affect cellular respiration and are reflected in particular by accelerated aging of the skin, with in particular a dull and / or gray complexion, an inhomogeneous complexion, a loss of radiance and / or transparency of the skin. skin, the early formation of wrinkles or fine lines, a loss of softness, suppleness and elasticity of the skin, the appearance of pigmentary spots, in particular of actinic lentigo. The effects of oxidative stress are also manifested by a decrease in the vigor of the hair and / or an alteration of their appearance, in particular a dull aspect. Thus, there is a need for compositions to protect the skin and / or its integuments from the harmful or unsightly effects of oxidative stress. The Applicant has unexpectedly discovered that a plant extract of the Gentianaceae family, in particular a root extract of the Gentiana lutea species, makes it possible to enhance the antiradical action of a superoxide dismutase present in a plant. composition, in particular a superoxide dismutase of plant origin.

The gentian root (common name of species belonging to the genus Gentiana or Gentian / la, family Gentianaceae or Gentianaceae) is known for its digestive, depurative and tonic properties. It is also known in dermatology for its anti-inflammatory effect (JP200351722), anti-pruritus (JP2003055241); and in cosmetics for its whitening effect (J P2001270820).

But to the knowledge of the Applicant, it has never been suggested to associate it with a superoxide dismutase to enhance the anti-radical effect thereof, nor proposed to use it in combination with a superoxide dismutase to protect the skin and / or its integuments against the effects of oxidative stress, in particular of the UV radiation type and / or toxins and / or pollution.

The invention therefore relates to a composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one plant extract of the Gentianaceae family and at least one superoxide dismutase (SOD).

Superoxygen dismutase By the term "SOD" is meant SOD enzymes and any equivalent product having an activity analogous to that of superoxide dismutases, namely any natural enzyme which can catalyze the disproportionation reaction indicated above as well as any product having this activity, which includes modified enzymes such as SOD graft-modified polyoxyalkylenes, polyethylene glycols, polysaccharides or acyl groups, as well as substances containing such products. In this respect, mention may be made of European Patent Application No. EP 223,257. SOD enzymes, which are metalloproteins whose metallic constituent is iron, manganese, copper and / or zinc, can be of various origins. SODs of animal origin (for example bovine or porcine), human (for example placental or blood), vegetable (for example extracted from mushrooms, seaweed, spinach, wheat, etc.), or extracted from microorganisms, may be mentioned in particular. organisms (bacteria or yeasts), or a recombinant SOD obtained by genetic engineering.

Preferably, a SOD of vegetable origin will be used.

According to a preferred mode, the SOD is extracted from wheat germ, in particular from the species Triticum vulgare.

The SOD used according to the invention can be characterized by activity ranging from 100 to 10,000 enzymatic units per milligram (U / mg) of dry matter (M.S), and in particular from 300 to 800 U / mg of MS. The enzymatic unit of SOD is defined by Mc Cord and Fridovitch, J. Biol. Chem. 244, 6049 (1969).

According to one particular mode, a plant-derived SOD, preferably extracted from wheat germ (Triticum vulgare), having an activity ranging from 400 to 600 U / mg of dry matter, will be used. Such a SOD extracted from wheat germ with an activity of 400 to 600 U / mg of dry matter is marketed by the company SILAB under the name DETOXYLASE LYO.

The superoxide dismutase is present in the composition in an amount sufficient to obtain, in association with the plant extract of the Gentianaceae family, the desired anti-radical effect. By way of example, the superoxide dismutase is present in the composition in a content corresponding to 40 to 600,000 SOD enzyme units, and in particular 40 to 60,000 units per 100 g of composition.

In particular, the SOD is present in the composition in a content ranging from 0.0001 to 1% by weight, preferably from 0.0001 to 0.1% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition. Plant Extract of the Gentianaceae Family The plant extract of the Gentianaceae family used according to the invention is preferably an extract rich in polyphenols.

Preferably, a plant root extract of the Gentianaceae family will be used.

The plant extract of the Gentianaceae family may be a plant extract selected from the genera Gentiana and Gentianella.

Preferably, a plant extract of the genus Gentiana, in particular a plant root extract of the genus Gentiana, will be used.

As species of the genus Gentianella, mention may be made of the species Gentianella amarella, Gentianella campestris, Gentianella ciliata and Gentianella germanica.

Species of the genus Gentiana include Gentiana acaulis, Gentiana asclepiadea, Gentiana burseri, Gentiana clusii, Gentiana cruciata, Gentiana lutea, Gentiana nivalis, Gentiana pneumonanthe, Gentiana punctata, Gentiana purpurea, Gentiana verna, Gentiana villarsii.

In particular, the species Gentiana lutea, Gentiana punctata, or Gentiana villarsii will be used.

More preferably, a plant extract of the Gentiana lutea species, and in particular a plant root extract of the Gentiana lutea species, will be used.

According to a preferred embodiment, use will be made of a root extract of Gentiana lutea hydroalcoholic solution (2.5% of MA) sold under the name INFLAN-AT by the company Technoble. The plant extract of the family Gentianaceae is present in the composition in an effective content to obtain, in association with superoxide dismutase, the desired antiradical effect. By way of illustration, the plant extract of the Gentianaceae family is present in the composition in a content ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition, preferably 0.01% by weight. at 5% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition. GALENIC The composition may be a cosmetic composition or a dermatological composition. In particular, it will be a cosmetic composition.

It may be in a form intended for topical application to the skin or in a form intended for oral administration. Preferably, it will be a composition intended for topical application to the skin.

The compositions according to the invention may be makeup or care products for keratinous substances, in particular the skin.

These compositions are prepared according to the usual methods. They constitute, in particular, creams for cleaning, protection or care for the face, for the hands or for the body (for example, day creams, night creams, make-up removal creams, foundation creams, sunscreen creams). ), fluid foundations, make-up removing milks, protective or skincare body milks, sunscreen milks, lotions, gels or mousses for skin care, such as cleaning lotions, anti-sun lotions, sunscreens, artificial tanning lotions, bath compositions, or deodorant compositions containing a bactericidal agent.

The compositions according to the invention may also consist of solid preparations constituting soaps or cleaning bars. The compositions may also be packaged as an aerosol composition also containing a propellant under pressure.

The hair compositions according to the invention may be presented in the form of aqueous, alcoholic or aqueous-alcoholic solutions, or in the form of creams, gels, emulsions, foams or in the form of an aerosol composition also containing a propellant. under pressure.

The skincare products may be a protective, treatment or care composition for the face, hands, feet, large anatomical folds or the body (for example, day creams, creams). night, make-up removing cream, sunscreen composition, body protection or care milk, milk 10 25 after-sun, lotion, gel or mousse for skin care, artificial tanning composition); an aftershave composition.

The make-up products can be of the foundation type, blushers, eyelids, anti-ring products, blushes, lipsticks, or a make-up or skin-coloring product.

The compositions according to the invention comprise a physiologically acceptable medium, ie a non-toxic medium that can be applied to keratin materials of human beings and of pleasant appearance, odor and feel.

The compositions may be in any of the galenical forms conventionally used for topical application and especially in the form of aqueous, hydroalcoholic solutions, oil-in-water (O / W) or water-in-oil (W / O) emulsions. or multiple (triple: E / H / E or H / E / H), aqueous gels, or dispersions of a fatty phase in an aqueous phase using polymeric nanoparticles such as nanospheres and nanocapsules, or lipid vesicles of ionic and / or nonionic type (liposomes, niosomes, oleosomes), nanoemulsions, or thin films. It is also possible to use a composition according to the invention in the form of a water and oil biphase.

These compositions are prepared according to the usual methods.

In addition, the compositions used according to the invention may be more or less fluid and have the appearance of a white or colored cream, an ointment, a milk, a lotion, a serum, a paste, a foam. They may optionally be applied to the skin in the form of an aerosol. They may also be in solid form, for example in the form of a stick.

When the composition used according to the invention comprises an oily phase, it preferably contains at least one oil. It may also contain other fatty substances. As oils which can be used in the composition of the invention, mention may be made, for example, of: hydrocarbon-based oils of animal origin, such as perhydrosqualene; hydrocarbon-based oils of plant origin, such as liquid triglycerides of fatty acids; comprising from 4 to 10 carbon atoms, such as the triglycerides of heptanoic or octanoic acids, or else, for example, sunflower, corn, soya, squash, grape seed, sesame, hazelnut or apricot oils, macadamia, arara, sunflower, castor oil, avocado, triglycerides of caprylic / capric acids such as those sold by Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810, 812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel, jojoba oil, shea butter oil; esters and synthetic ethers, in particular of fatty acids, such as the oils of formulas R'COOR2 and R'OR2 in which R 'represents the residue of a fatty acid containing from 8 to 29 carbon atoms, and R2 represents a hydrocarbon chain, branched or unbranched, containing from 3 to 30 carbon atoms, for example Purcellin oil, isononyl isononanoate, isopropyl myristate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, octyl-2-dodecyl stearate, octyl-2-dodecyl erucate, isostearyl isostearate; hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate, octyl hydroxystearate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate, diisostearyl malate, triisocetyl citrate, heptanoates, octanoates, decanoates of fatty alcohols; polyol esters, such as propylene glycol dioctanoate, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate and diethylene glycol diisononanoate; and pentaerythritol esters such as pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate; linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, such as paraffin oils, volatile or not, and their derivatives, petroleum jelly, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as parleam oil; fatty alcohols having from 8 to 26 carbon atoms, such as cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and their mixture (cetylstearyl alcohol), octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, oleic alcohol or linoleic alcohol; partially fluorinated hydrocarbon oils and / or silicone oils such as those described in document JP-A-2-295912; silicone oils such as volatile or non-volatile polymethylsiloxanes (PDMS) with a linear or cyclic silicone chain, which are liquid or pasty at room temperature, in particular cyclopolydimethylsiloxanes (cyclomethicones) such as cyclohexasiloxane; polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl, alkoxy or phenyl groups, during or at the end of the silicone chain, groups having from 2 to 24 carbon atoms; phenyl silicones such as phenyltrimethicones, phenyldimethicones, phenyltrimethylsiloxydiphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl-dimethicones, diphenylmethyldiphenyltrisiloxanes, 2-phenylethyltrimethylsiloxysilicates, and polymethylphenylsiloxanes; - their mixtures.

By hydrocarbon oil is meant in the list of oils mentioned above, any oil predominantly comprising carbon and hydrogen atoms, and optionally ester, ether, fluoro, carboxylic acid and / or alcohol groups.

The other fatty substances that may be present in the oily phase are, for example, fatty acids containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, such as stearic acid, lauric acid, palmitic acid and oleic acid; waxes such as lanolin, beeswax, carnauba or candelilla wax, paraffin waxes, lignite waxes or microcrystalline waxes, ceresin or ozokerite, synthetic waxes such as polyethylene waxes, waxes Fischer-Tropsch; silicone resins such as trifluoromethyl-C1-4-alkyldimethicone and trifluoropropyldimethicone; and silicone elastomers such as the products sold under the names KSG by the company Shin-Etsu, under the names Trefil, BY29 or EPSX by the company Dow Corning or under the names Gransil by the company Grant Industries.

These fatty substances may be chosen in a varied manner by those skilled in the art in order to prepare a composition having the desired properties, for example of consistency or texture. According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition according to the invention is a water-in-oil (W / O) or oil-in-water (O / W) emulsion. The proportion of the oily phase of the emulsion may range from 5 to 80% by weight, and preferably from 5 to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

The emulsions generally contain at least one emulsifier chosen from amphoteric, anionic, cationic or nonionic emulsifiers, used alone or as a mixture, and optionally a co-emulsifier. The emulsifiers are suitably selected according to the emulsion to be obtained (W / O or O / W). The emulsifier and the coemulsifier are generally present in the composition, in a proportion ranging from 0.3 to 30% by weight, and preferably from 0.5 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. For the W / O emulsions, examples of emulsifiers that may be mentioned include dimethicone copolyols such as the mixture of cyclomethicone and dimethicone copolyol, sold under the name DC 5225 C by Dow Corning, and alkyl dimethicone copolyols such as Laurylmethicone copolyol sold under the name "Dow Corning 5200 Formulation Aid" by Dow Corning and Cetyl dimethicone copolyol sold under the name Abil EM 90R by the company Goldschmidt. It is also possible to use, as surfactant of W / O emulsions, a crosslinked solid elastomeric organopolysiloxane comprising at least one oxyalkylene group, such as those obtained according to the procedure of Examples 3, 4 and 8 of US Pat. No. 5,412,004 and examples US-A-5,811,487, especially the product of Example 3 (synthetic example) of US-A-5,412,004. and such as that sold under the reference KSG 21 by Shin Etsu. Other types of KSG marketed by Shin Etsu can also be used, such as KSG-16.

For O / W emulsions, mention may be made, for example, as emulsifiers, of nonionic emulsifiers such as oxyalkylenated (more particularly polyoxyethylenated) fatty acid esters of glycerol; oxyalkylenated fatty acid and sorbitan esters; oxyalkylenated fatty acid esters (oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated); oxyalkylenated fatty alcohol ethers (oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated); sugar esters such as sucrose stearate; and mixtures thereof such as the mixture of glyceryl stearate and PEG-40 stearate.

In known manner, the cosmetic or dermatological composition of the invention may also contain adjuvants usual in the cosmetic or dermatological field, such as hydrophilic or lipophilic gelling agents, preservatives, solvents, perfumes, fillers, UV filters, bactericides, odor absorbers, dyestuffs, antioxidants, nonionic surfactants, anionic, cationic, pearlescent agents, particles. It may also contain additional cosmetic or dermatological active agents intended to complement the effect of the combination which is the subject of the invention on the skin and / or superficial body growths.

The additional active agents may in particular be chosen from moisturizing agents, desquamating agents, barrier-improving agents, depigmenting agents, antioxidants, dermodecontracting agents, anti-glycation agents, agents stimulating the synthesis of dermal macromolecules and and / or epidermal and / or preventing their degradation, agents stimulating the proliferation of fibroblasts or keratinocytes and / or differentiation of keratinocytes, agents promoting the maturation of the horny envelope, inhibitors of NO-synthases, receptor antagonists benzodiazepines (PBR), agents increasing the activity of the sebaceous gland, agents stimulating the energy metabolism of cells, tensors, liporestructuring agents, slimming agents, agents promoting microcirculation of the skin, soothing agents and / or anti-irritants, sebo-regulators o u anti-seborrhoeic, astringent agents, healing agents, anti-inflammatory agents, and anti-acne agents.

According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention further comprises at least one agent chosen from a depigmenting agent, a desquamating agent, a skin barrier function-improving agent, a moisturizing agent, an antioxidant, and mixtures thereof. According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention further comprises at least one depigmenting agent.

According to another embodiment, the composition according to the invention further comprises at least one desquamating agent.

According to another embodiment, the composition according to the invention further comprises at least one agent improving the skin barrier function.

According to another embodiment, the composition according to the invention further comprises at least one antioxidant agent.

According to another embodiment, the composition according to the invention further comprises at least one moisturizing agent. In particular, the composition according to the invention will advantageously comprise at least one depigmenting agent and at least one desquamating agent.

According to a preferred embodiment, the depigmenting agent is ellagic acid or a plant extract containing it and the desquamating agent is glycolic acid or a plant extract containing it. The amounts of these various adjuvants and / or actives are those conventionally used in the field under consideration, and for example from 0.01 to 20% of the total weight of the composition. These adjuvants, depending on their nature, can be introduced into the fatty phase, into the aqueous phase and / or into the lipid vesicles. As fillers which can be used in the composition of the invention, mention may be made, for example, besides pigments, silica powder, a colloidal amorphous silica; talcum; polyamide particles and in particular those sold under the name ORGASOL by the company Atochem; polyethylene powders; micro-spheres based on acrylic copolymers, such as those made of ethylene glycol dimethacrylate / lauryl methacrylate copolymer sold by Dow Corning under the name Polytrap; expanded powders such as hollow microspheres and in particular the microspheres sold under the name Expancel by the company Kemanord Plast or under the name Micropearl F 80 ED by the company Matsumoto; silicone resin microbeads such as those sold under the name Tospearl by the company Toshiba Silicone; and their mixtures. These fillers may be present in amounts ranging from 0 to 20% by weight and preferably from 1 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

As hydrophilic or lipophilic gelling agents, there may be mentioned in particular carbopol, luvigel, Hostacerin AMPS, Simulgel, Sepigel-type acrylamide gelling agents such as Sepigel 305 from Seppic, xanthan gums, guar gums, cellulose gums, alginates and mixtures thereof. We can also mention hectorites.

According to one particular embodiment of the invention, the composition further comprises at least one UV filter.

As UV filters (or sunscreens), which may be a chemical filter or a physical filter or a mixture of such filters, the following families may be mentioned by way of illustration and in a nonlimiting manner (the names correspond to the CTFA nomenclature filters): anthranilates, in particular menthyl anthranilate; benzophenones, in particular benzophenone-1, benzophenone-3, benzophenone-5, benzophenone-6, benzophenone-8, benzophenone-9, benzophenone-12, and preferentially benzophenone-2 (oxybenzone), or Benzophenone-4 (Uvinul MS40 available from BASF); benzylidenecamphers, in particular 3-benzylidene camphor, benzylidenecamphosulfonic acid, camphor benzalkonium methosulphate, polyacrylamidomethylbenzylidene camphor, terephthalylidene di-camphorsulfonic acid, and preferentially 4-methylbenzylidene camphor (Eusolex 6300 available). at Merck); benzimidazoles, in particular benzimidazilate (Neo Heliopan AP available from Haarmann and Reimer), or phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid (Eusolex 232 available from Merck); benzotriazoles, in particular trisiloxane drometzol, or methylene bis-benzotriazolyltetramethylbutylphenol (Tinosorb M available from Ciba); cinnamates, in particular cinoxate, DEA methoxycinnamate, diisopropyl methylcinnamate, dimethoxycinnamate glyceryl ethylhexanoate, isopropyl methoxycinnamate, isoamyl cinnamate, and preferably ethocrylene (Uvinul N35 available from BASF), octyl methoxycinnamate (Parsol MCX available from Hoffmann La Roche), or octocrylene (Uvinul 539 available from BASF); dibenzoylmethanes, especially butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane (Parsol 1789); imidazolines, in particular ethylhexyl dimethoxybenzylidene dioxoimidazoline; PABAs, in particular ethyl dihydroxypropyl PABA, ethylhexyldimethyl PABA, glyceryl PABA, PABA, PEG-25 PABA, and preferentially diethylhexylbutamido-triazone (Uvasorb HEB available from 3V Sigma), ethylhexyltriazone (Uvinul T150 available from BASF), or ethyl PABA (benzocaine); salicylates, especially dipropylene glycol salicyclate, ethylhexyl salicylate, homosalate, or TEA salicylate; triazines, in particular anisotriazine (Tinosorb S available from Ciba); trisiloxane drometrizole, zinc oxide, titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, iron, zirconium, cerium coated or uncoated.

The amount of filters present in the composition may range, for example, from 1 to 20% by weight and better still from 2 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. 30

As depigmenting agents, there may be mentioned in particular vitamin C and its derivatives and in particular the vit CG, CP and 3-O ethyl vitamin C, alpha and beta arbutin, ferulic acid, lucinol and its derivatives, kojic acid, resorcinol and its derivatives, tranexamic acid and its derivatives, gentisic acid, homogentisate, methyl gentisate or homogentisate, dioic acid, D calcium panthetin sulfonate, lipoic acid , ellagic acid, vitamin B3, linoleic acid and its derivatives, plant derivatives such as chamomile, bearberry, the family of aloe (vera, ferox, bardensis), mulberry, skullcap; a root extract of Paeonia suffructicosa such as that marketed by the company Ichimaru Pharcos under the name Botanpi Liquid B, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, ellagic acid or a plant extract containing it (ex: Tara extract) will be used.

Examples of desquamating agents that may be mentioned include 13-hydroxyacids (BHA), in particular salicylic acid and its derivatives (of which n-octanoyl-5-salicylic acid otherwise known as capryloyl salicylic acid in INCI name); α-hydroxy acids (AHA), such as glycolic, citric, lactic, tartaric, malic or mandelic acids; 4- (2-hydroxyethyl) piperazine-1-propanesulfonic acid (HEPES); and their mixtures.

Preferably, glycolic acid or a plant extract containing it (eg extract of duck sugar) will be used.

As agents improving the barrier function, there may be mentioned in particular arginine, serine, an extract of Thermus thermophilus such as Sederma's Venenane, sphingosines such as salicyloyl sphingosine sold under the name Phytosphingosine SLC by the company Degussa, unsaturated oils omega 3s such as rose hip oils; ceramides or derivatives, in particular ceramides of type 2 (such as N-oleoyldihydrosphingosine), type 3 (such as stearoyl-4-hydroxysphinganine in INCI name) and type 5 (such as N-2-hydroxypalmitoyldihydrosphingosine, having as its INCI name: hydroxypalmytoyl sphinganine), sphingoid-based compounds, glycosphingolipids, phospholipids, cholesterol and its derivatives, phytosterols, essential fatty acids, and mixtures thereof.

Ceramides, and in particular N-oleoyldihydrosphingosine, will preferably be used.

Humidifying or moisturizing agents that may especially be mentioned include glycerol and its derivatives, urea and its derivatives, in particular Hydrovance marketed by National Starch, lactic acids, hyaluronic acid, AHAs, BHAs and sodium pidolate. , xylitol, serine, sodium lactate, ectoin and its derivatives, chitosan and its derivatives, collagen, plankton, an extract of imperata cylindra marketed under the name Moist 24 by Sederma, homopolymers acrylic acid such as Lipidure-HM from NOF corporation, beta-glucan and in particular sodium carboxymethyl beta-glucan from Mibelle-AG-Biochemistry; a mixture of passionflower, apricot, corn, and rice bran oils marketed by Nestlé under the name NutraLipids; a C-glycoside derivative such as those described in patent application WO 02/051828 and in particular C-13-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane in the form of a solution containing 30% by weight of active material in a mixture water / propylene glycol (60/40% by weight) such as the product manufactured by CHIMEX under the trade name MEXORYL SBB; a muscat rose oil marketed by Nestlé; an extract of microalga Prophyridium cruentum enriched in zinc marketed by Vincience under the name Algualane Zinc. ; spheres of collagen and chondroitin sulfate of marine origin (Ateocollagen) marketed by Engelhard Lyon under the name marine filling spheres; spheres of hyaluronic acid such as those marketed by Engelhard Lyon; and arginine. Preferably, glycerol and its derivatives will be used.

As antioxidants, mention may in particular be made of tocopherol and its esters, in particular tocopherol acetate; ascorbic acid and its derivatives, in particular ascorbyl magnesium phosphate and ascorbyl glucoside; ferulic acid; serine; ellagic acid, phloretin, polyphenols, chelants, such as BHT, BHA, N, N'-bis (3,4,5-trimethoxybenzyl) ethylenediamine and its salts, and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, tocopherol and its esters, in particular tocopherol acetate, will be used.

The cosmetic and / or dermatological active agents will be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.001% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.01% to 10%, and even more preferably from 0.5 to 5% and more preferably from 0.1 to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

The compositions according to the invention may be applied directly to the skin or, alternatively, to occlusive or non-occlusive cosmetic or dermatological carriers intended to be applied in a localized manner to the skin. The support can be an occlusive support. By way of example, the support consists of a thermoplastic material chosen from high and low density polyethylenes, polypropylenes, polyvinyl chlorides, copolymers of ethylene and vinyl acetate, polyesters and polyurethanes. , or a complex of such materials. These materials may also be present in laminated form with at least one sheet of metal such as aluminum foil.

The support layer may be of any suitable thickness which will provide the desired support and protection functions. Preferably, the thickness of the support layer is from about 20 μm to about 1.5 mm. Advantageously, the support layer is sufficiently flexible so as to perfectly fit the profile of the skin, and not to cause the user, a feeling of discomfort.

Preferably, however, the support is `non-occlusive '. In the latter case, it is advantageous to use a support consisting of a paper, a porous or perforated thermoplastic material, a woven fabric, a nonwoven fabric or a perforated nonwoven fabric.

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the plant extract of the Gentianaceae family and the superoxide dismutase may be packaged in two separate compositions. The invention thus also relates to a kit comprising at least one composition comprising at least one plant extract of the Gentianaceae family and a composition comprising at least one superoxide dismutase.

The plant extract of the Gentianaceae family and the superoxide dismutase are described above.

The invention also relates to a cosmetic treatment method of the skin and / or its integuments, comprising the administration of a composition as defined above. In particular, the method according to the invention comprises the topical application to the skin and / or its integuments of a composition as defined above.

According to one particular embodiment, the method according to the invention aims to protect the skin and / or its integuments from the effects of oxidative stress, in particular the effects of UV radiation, and / or toxins and / or pollution.

In particular, it aims to prevent the signs of skin aging.

It also aims to prevent the pigmentation induced by oxidative stress, in particular by UV radiation.

In particular, the method according to the invention aims to prevent and / or reduce pigmentary spots, in particular actinic lentigo; to lighten the skin to prevent dullness and / or gray complexion and / or to improve the radiance and / or uniformity of the complexion; improve the radiance and / or transparency of the skin; improve the softness, suppleness and / or elasticity of the skin; and / or prevent and / or reduce wrinkles and / or fine lines.

It also aims to prevent and / or improve the dullness of the hair, and / or improve the strength and / or appearance of the hair.

According to a preferred embodiment, the method according to the invention is intended for high-skinned skin (IV to VI), where the pigmentary spots and / or the appearance of the complexion are particularly visible.

According to another preferred mode, the process is intended for Asian skins. The invention further relates to the cosmetic use of the combination of a plant extract of the family Gentianaceae and a superoxide dismutase, as an active ingredient for preventing the effects of oxidative stress on the skin and / or its integuments. Figure 1: Representative curves of keratinocyte protection by gentian root extract against oxidative stress induced by increasing concentrations of H2O2 after 24 hours of incubation. FIG. 2: representative curves of the protection of keratinocytes by SOD with respect to the oxidative stress induced by increasing concentrations of H2O2 after 24 hours of incubation. FIG. 3: representative curves for the protection of keratinocytes by the mixture extracted from gentian root and SOD with respect to the oxidative stress induced by increasing concentrations of H 2 O 2 after 24 hours of incubation.

The invention will now be illustrated by the following nonlimiting examples.

In the compositions the proportions indicated are percentages by weight unless otherwise indicated.

EXAMPLE 1 Effect of the Association of a Gentian Root Extract and a SOD Extracted from a Wheat Borer on Oxidative Stress Related Toxicity

The ability of each of the extracts and their combination is evaluated in a protection test against toxicity induced by oxidative stress. In this study, the compounds were tested for their ability to limit the toxicity of hydrogen peroxide (H2O2) to normal human keratinocytes.

Protocol The normal human epidermal keratinocytes (NHEK) were cultured in culture medium for 48 hours, in the presence of epidermal growth factors (EGF 0.25 ng / ml) and pituitary extract EP 25 μg / ml, and an antibiotic the gentamycin 25pg / ml. The medium was then replaced with fresh medium containing or not (control), the extracts under test in the presence of a range of H2O2 (oxidative stress inducer).

After 24 hours of incubation, the viability of the cells was determined by the MTT (3- (4,5-dimethylthiazol-2-yl) -2,5-diphenyltetrazolium bromide reduction test) and the morphological observation of the cells. was realized. 30

Products tested - gentian root extract (Gentiana lutea) sold under the name INFLAN-AT by the company Technoble: final concentrations tested in the medium = 0.1 mg / ml and 1 mg / ml; -SOD extracted from wheat germ (Triticum vu / gare) 400 to 600U / mg sold under the name Detoxylase LYO by the company SILAB; final concentrations tested in the medium = 0.01 mg / ml and 0.1 mg / ml;

Concentration range H2O2 0, 100, 150, 200, 300, 400, 600, 800, and 1200pM.

Results The results are expressed as a percentage of viability with respect to the control. Viability is determined according to the following formula: viability = (sample / control OD) x 100.

The results are presented on the graphs of Figures 1 to 3.

A C150 is determined, that is to say a concentration in μM for which 50% inhibition of viability is obtained.

Under the experimental conditions of the test, the IC50 was 375.6 μM for the range of H2O2 tested on keratinocytes.

Gentian root extract at 0.1 mg / ml has no effect on the value of C150 relative to the H2O2 range and tends to increase it to the highest concentration of 1 mg / ml. SOD wheat germ extract at the different concentrations tested did not change the IC50 values compared to the H2O2 range alone.

On the other hand, the combination of the two compounds makes it possible to observe a net increase in the value of C150 relative to the H2O2 range alone and this in a dose-dependent manner.

The results are presented in the following table: Treatment IC50 (pM) Range of H202 375.6 Range of H202 + gentian extract 1 mg / ml 416.8 Range of H202 + gentian extract 0, lmg / ml 375.8 Range of H202 + SOD of germ of wheat 0, lmg / ml 392.7 Range of H202 + SOD of wheat germ 0.01 mg / ml 397 Range of H202 + gentian extract lmg / ml + SOD of 443, 720 wheat germ 0, lmg / ml Range of H2O2 + gentian extract 0, lmg / ml + SOD of 412.6 wheat germ 0.01 mg / ml Conclusion In the experimental conditions of this study, we have shown that treatments with gentian root extract alone are with no net effect on the protection of keratinocytes subjected to oxidative stress (there is a trend towards the highest concentration). On the other hand, we have demonstrated a synergistic effect of the association of gentian root extract with SOD extracted from wheat germ; this effect is dose dependent.

Example 2: Formulations The% are indicated as% of active ingredient relative to the total weight of the composition. Oxidative anti-stress care composition

SOD extracted from wheat germ (Detoxylase LYO marketed by SILAB) 0.002% Gentian root extract (INFLAN-ATF sold by Technoble) 0.05% Disodium EDTA 0.05% Tocopherol acetate 0.05% Ellagic acid 0, 5% 25 Glycolic acid 0.06% Butylene glycol 4% Emollient 2% Fatty alcohols 0.2% Fatty acids 2.25% Surfactants 0.3% Xanthan gum 0.25% Glycerin 5% Water qs 100% 15 composition is applied daily to the face and neck, preferably morning and evening, to combat the effects of oxidative stress. The complexion is more pure, transparent, radiant.

Claims (23)

A composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one plant extract of the Gentianaceae family and at least one superoxide dismutase (SOD). 2. Composition according to claim 1, wherein the superoxide dismutase is of plant origin. 3. Composition according to one of claims 1 or 2, wherein the superoxide dismutase is extracted from wheat germ. 4. Composition according to the preceding claim, wherein the superoxide dismutase is extracted from wheat germ of the species Triticum seen / station. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the plant extract of the Gentianaceae family is a plant root extract of the Gentianaceae family. 6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the plant extract of the Gentianaceae family belongs to the genus Gentiana. 7. The composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, in which the plant extract of the Gentianaceae family is selected from the species Gentiana lutea, Gentiana punctata, Gentiana villarsii, and mixtures thereof. 8. Composition according to the preceding claim, wherein the plant extract of the family Gentianaceae is an extract of the species Gentiana lutea. 9. Composition according to the preceding claim, wherein the plant extract of the family Gentianaceae is a root extract of Gentiana lutea. 10. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is intended for topical application to the skin and / or its integuments. 11. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the plant extract of the family Gentianaceae is present in the composition in a content ranging from 0.01 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition. preferably from 0.01 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition. 12. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the superoxide dismutase is present in the composition in an amount corresponding to 40 to 600,000 SOD enzyme units, and in particular 40 to 60,000 units, per 100 g of composition. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the superoxide dismutase is present in the composition in a content of from 0.0001 to 1% by weight, preferably from 0.0001 to 0.1% by weight by weight. relative to the total weight of said composition. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, further comprising at least one agent selected from depigmenting agents, desquamating agents, skin barrier enhancing agents, moisturizing agents, antioxidants, and mixtures thereof. 15. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, further comprising at least one UV filter. 16. A method of cosmetic treatment of the skin and / or its integuments, comprising applying to the skin and / or its integuments a composition as defined in any one of the preceding claims. 17. The method of claim 16, for protecting the skin and / or its integuments from the effects of oxidative stress, in particular the effects of UV radiation, and / or toxins and / or pollution. 18. Method according to one of claims 16 or 17, for preventing the signs of skin aging. 19. A method according to any one of claims 16 or 17, for preventing the pigmentation induced by oxidative stress, in particular by UV radiation. 20. Method according to any one of claims 16 to 19, for preventing and / or reducing pigmentary spots, in particular actinic lentigo; to lighten the skin to prevent dullness and / or gray complexion and / or to improve the radiance and / or uniformity of the complexion; improve the radiance and / or transparency of the skin; improve the softness, suppleness and / or elasticity of the skin; and / or prevent and / or reduce wrinkles and / or fine lines. 21. Method according to one of claims 16 to 20, wherein the composition is applied to Asian skin. 22. The method of claim 16 or 17, for preventing and / or improving the dullness of the hair, and / or improve the strength and / or appearance of the hair. 23. Cosmetic use of the combination of a plant extract of the Gentianaceae family and a superoxide dismutase, as an active ingredient intended to prevent the effects of oxidative stress on the skin and / or its integuments.