WO2021056412A1

WO2021056412A1 - Two-part composition for caring for keratin materials

Info

Publication number: WO2021056412A1
Application number: PCT/CN2019/108510
Authority: WO
Inventors: Di Wu; Zhongxia YANG
Original assignee: L'oreal
Priority date: 2019-09-27
Filing date: 2019-09-27
Publication date: 2021-04-01
Also published as: CN114466638A; CN114466638B

Abstract

In a process for caring for keratin materials, the two parts of two-part composition are mixed to form a solution and then applied to the keratin materials. The two-part composition for caring for keratin materials comprises: a) an anhydrous part containing ferulic acid, and b) a hydrous part containing: i) at least one polyglycol with polymerization degree no more than 8, and ii) at least one C3-C6 glycol, wherein the anhydrous part and the hydrous part are separate.

Description

TWO-PART COMPOSITION FOR CARING FOR KERATIN MATERIALS

TECHNICAL FIELD

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition for caring for keratin materials such as the skin, in particular the face. In particular, the present invention relates to a two-part composition for caring for keratin materials such as the skin, in particular the face. The present invention also relates to a process for caring for keratin materials such as the skin, in particular the face.

BACKGROUND

Compositions consisting of two separate parts are generally referred to as "two-part compositions" .

Two-part products have been proposed when the active agent is not suitable for presenting in the carrier system for long time, one part of which comprises the active agent and the other part of which comprises a carrier system. The use of two-part compositions necessitates prior shaking in order to form homogeneous composition.

For example, WO 2008/045174 proposes a two-part product comprising a composition A containing a foaming amphoteric surfactant and a composition B containing hydrogen peroxide, said compositions being mixed before application to the skin.

Ferulic acid is a robust antioxidant active agent which could provide whitening/lightening, anti-finelines, anti-inflammation and UV protection benefits.

However, ferulic acid has odor issue when contacting with aqua/water after several days, for example 7 days when the content of ferulic acid is no less than 1.9%by weight, 15 days when the content of ferulic acid is no less than 1.5%by weight, and 30 days when the content of ferulic acid is no less than 1.0%by weight, relative to the composition containing it

Current exiting products focus on water-free cosmetic base to avoid contacting with water. These products deliver oily/greasy sensory and heating sensation (cue for skin irritation) which limits the application of ferulic acid in skin care field.

Dry-mix format is another solution to prolong the shelf life of ferulic acid-containing products and could cue robust efficacy, intensive treatment, fresh and safe formulation. But ferulic acid isn’t soluble to water at room temperature.

It is therefore sought to formulate a two-part product based on ferulic acid, which has whitening/lightening, anti-finelines, anti-inflammation and UV protection benefits, and has no discomfort feeling such as greasy and sticky, meanwhile the ferulic acid can quickly dissolve into the carrier system.

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION

Thus, one object of the present is thus to provide a two-part composition for caring for keratin materials such as the skin, in particular the face, which based on ferulic acid, which has whitening/lightening, anti-finelines, anti-inflammation and UV protection benefits, and has no discomfort feeling such as greasy and sticky, meanwhile the ferulic acid can quickly dissolve into the carrier system.

Still another object of the present invention is to provide a process for caring for keratin materials such as the skin, in particular the face.

Thus, according to one aspect, the present invention provides a two-part composition for caring for keratin materials comprising:

a) an anhydrous part containing ferulic acid; and

b) a hydrous part containing:

i) at least one polyglycols with polymerization degree no more than 8; and

ii) at least one C ₃-C ₆ glycol;

Wherein the anhydrous part and the hydrous part are separate.

According to another aspect, the present invention provides is a process for caring for keratin materials, comprising mixing the anhydrous part and the hydrous part of the two-part composition as described above together to form a solution and applying the solution to the keratin materials.

Surprisingly, the inventors have found that ferulic acid can quick dissolve in the hydrous part comprising at least one polyglycols with polymerization degree no more than 8 and at least one C ₃-C ₆ glycol, i.e. a homogeneous solution can be formed after mixing the anhydrous part and hydrous part for less than 40 seconds, even within 30 seconds.

In addition, the freshly mixed two-part composition delivers good skin feeling.

Other advantages of the present invention will emerge more clearly on reading the description and the examples that follow.

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

The two-part composition for caring for keratin materials according to the present invention comprises:

a) an anhydrous part containing ferulic acid; and

b) a hydrous part containing:

i) at least one polyglycols with polymerization degree no more than 8; and

ii) at least one C ₃-C ₆ glycol;

Wherein the anhydrous part and the hydrous part are separate.

By "the anhydrous part" , it means that no water is added on purpose and the water content is less than 0.1%by weight of the anhydrous part, in particular, there is no water in the anhydrous part.

The two-part composition can be used to care for keratin materials such as the skin, in particular the face after being shaked to form a homogeous solution.

Anhydrous part

The two-part composition of the present invention comprises an anhydrous part containing ferulic acid.

In some embodiments, the hydrous part is consisted of ferulic acid.

Ferulic acid

Ferulic acid, CAS number of which is 1135-24-6, is also called 4-Hydroxy-3-methoxycinnamic acid, which has the following formula:

Ferulic acid can be broadly found in giant fennel, the seeds of coffee, apple, artichoke, peanut, and orange, as well as in both seeds and cell walls of commelinid plants (such as rice, wheat, oats, and pineapple) . Like many natural phenols, it is a strong antioxidant that is very reactive toward free radicals and reduces oxidative stress. Many studies suggest that ferulic acid may have antitumor activity.

Mention may be made of such product, for example, ORYZA FERULIX from ORYZA OIL & FAT CHEMICAL.

Preferably, the two-part composition of the present invention comprises from 0.1%to 3.0%by weight, preferably from 0.5%to 2.0%by weight of ferulic acid, relative to the total weight of the two-part composition.

Hydrous part

The two-part composition of the present invention comprises a hydrous part containing at least one polyglycol with polymerization degree no more than 8 and at least one C ₃-C ₆ glycol.

Polyglycol

In some preferred embodiments, polyglycols with polymerization degree no more than 8 is selected from polyethylene glycol and polypropylene glycol with polymerization degree no more than 8.

As examples of polyglycol that can be used in the two-part composition of the present invention, mention can be made to PEG-2, PEG-3, PEG-4, PEG-5, PEG-6, PEG-7, PEG-8, PPG-2, PPG-3, PPG-4, PPG-5, PPG-6, PPG-7 and PPG-8.

In a more preferred embodiment, the hydrous part containing both PEG-6 and PEG-8.

Preferably, the two-part composition of the present invention comprises from 1%to 20%by weight, preferably from 2%to 15%by weight of polyglycol, relative to the total weight of the two-part composition.

C ₃-C ₆ glycol

As examples of C ₃-C ₆ glycol that can be used in the two-part composition of the present invention, mention can be made to propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, and dipropylene glycol.

In the present invention, the definition of glycol includes all possible isomer. For example, propylene glycol includes 1, 3-propylene glycol, 1, 2-propylene glycol and 1, 1-propylene glycol. Butylene glycol includes 1, 4-butylene glycol, 1, 3-butylene glycol, 1, 2-butylene glycol, etc.

In a preferred embodiment, the hydrous part containing both dipropylene glycol and pentylene glycol.

Preferably, the two-part composition of the present invention comprises from 5%to 30%by weight, preferably from 10%to 30%by weight of C ₃-C ₆ glycol, relative to the total weight of the two-part composition.

For different dosage of ferulic acid, the concentration of polyglycols and glycols is at different level.

In an embodiment, the two-part composition of the present invention comprises from 0.5%to 1%by weight of ferulic acid, from 5%to 8%by weight of polyglycol and from 12%to 18%by weight of C ₃-C ₆ glycol, relative to the total weight of the two-part composition.

In an embodiment, the two-part composition of the present invention comprises from 1%to 1.5%by weight of ferulic acid, from 6%to 12%by weight of polyglycol and from 18%to 25%by weight of C ₃-C ₆ glycol, relative to the total weight of the two-part composition.

In an embodiment, the two-part composition of the present invention comprises from 1.5%to 1.9%by weight of ferulic acid, from 6%to 14%by weight of polyglycol and from 22%to 28%by weight of C ₃-C ₆ glycol, relative to the total weight of the two-part composition.

In an embodiment, the two-part composition of the present invention comprises from 1.9%to 3.0%by weight of ferulic acid, from 10%to 15%by weight of polyglycol and from 24.5%to 30%by weight of C ₃-C ₆ glycol, relative to the total weight of the two-part composition.

In an embodiment, the two-part composition of the present invention comprises from 0.5%to 1%by weight of ferulic acid, from 5%to 8%by weight of polyglycol selected from PEG-6 and PEG-8, and from 12%to 18%by weight of C ₃-C ₆ glycol selected from propylene glycol, butylene glycol dipropylene glycol and pentylene glycol, relative to the total weight of the two-part composition.

In an embodiment, the two-part composition of the present invention comprises from 1%to 1.5%by weight of ferulic acid, from 6%to 12%by weight of polyglycol selected from PEG-6 and PEG-8 and from 18%to 25%by weight of C ₃-C ₆ glycol selected from propylene glycol, butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol and pentylene glycol, relative to the total weight of the two-part composition.

In an embodiment, the two-part composition of the present invention comprises from 1.5%to 1.9%by weight of ferulic acid, from 6%to 14%by weight of polyglycol selected from PEG-6 and PEG-8, and from 22%to 28%by weight of C ₃-C ₆ glycol selected from propylene glycol, butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol and pentylene glycol, relative to the total weight of the two-part composition.

In an embodiment, the two-part composition of the present invention comprises from 1.9%to 3.0%by weight of ferulic acid, from 10%to 15%by weight of polyglycol selected from PEG-6 and PEG-8, and from 24.5%to 30%by weight of C ₃-C ₆ glycol selected from propylene glycol, butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol and pentylene glycol, relative to the total weight of the two-part composition.

The inventors discovered that after mixing the anhydrous part with the hydrous part, fast dissolution of ferulic acid is achieved at room temperature and a clear cosmetic composition is obtained with high ferulic acid concentration and no irritation sensation.

Water

The aqueous part of the two-part composition according to the present invention also comprises water.

The water used may be sterile demineralized water and/or a floral water such as rose water, cornflower water, camomile water or lime blossom water, and/or a natural spring water or mineral water, for instance: Vittel water, Vichy basin water, Uriage water, Roche Posay water, Bourboule water, Enghien-les-Bains water, Saint Gervais- les-Bains water, Néris-les-Bains water, Allevar-les-Bains water, Digne water, Maizières water, Neyrac-les-Bains water, Lons-le-Saunier water, Eaux Bonnes water, Rochefort water, Saint Christau water, Fumades water, Tercis-les-bains water and Avene water. The aqueous phase may also comprise reconstituted spring water, i.e. a water containing trace elements such as zinc, copper, magnesium, etc., reconstituting the characteristics of a spring water.

The aqueous part may also comprise water-miscible organic solvents (at room temperature: 25℃) , for instance monoalcohols containing from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as ethanol or isopropanol, and mixtures thereof.

In particular, the two-part composition according to the present invention may comprise an hydrous part in an amount ranging from 45%to 99.9%by weight, preferably from 80%to 98%by weight, even more preferably 95%to 97%by weight, relative to the total weight of the two-part composition.

Additional cosmetic active agent (s)

Depend on the final purpose, the two-part composition can comprise an additional cosmetic active agent (s) in the anhydrous part and/or the hydrous part depending on their nature.

As additional cosmetic active agents that may be used in the two-part composition of the present invention, examples that may be mentioned include enzymes; flavonoids; moisturizers; anti-inflammatory agents; vitamins; depigmenting agents; α-hydroxy acids; retinoids; antibacterial active agents; tensioning agents; ceramides; essential oils; UV-screening agents (or sunscreens) , and mixtures thereof; and any other active agent that is suitable for the final purpose of the two-part composition.

It is easy for the skilled in the art to adjust the amount of the additional cosmetic active agent based on the final use of the two-part composition according to the present invention.

It is also easy for the skilled in the art to decide whether to add the additional cosmetic active agent (s) in the anhydrous part and/or the hydrous part.

Adjuvants or additives

The two-part composition according to the present invention may also contain conventional cosmetic adjuvants or additives, which will be in the anhydrous part and/or the hydrous part depending on their nature, for instance fragrances, preserving agents and bactericides, opacifiers, dyes, softeners, buffers, electrolytes such as sodium chloride, or a pH regulator (for example citric acid or potassium hydroxide) , and mixtures thereof.

Preserving agents that may be used include any preserving agent usually used in the fields under consideration, for instance p-anisic acid, parabens, chlorphenesin, phenoxyethanol, chlorhexidine gluconate and polyhexamethylene biguanide hydrochloride (CTFA name: Polyaminopropyl biguanide) .

The preserving agent, when presents in the two-part composition, generally represent from 0.1%to 1%by weight, preferably from 0.1%to 0.5%by weight relative to the total weight of the two-part composition.

According to a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the two-part composition contains p-anisic acid as preserving agent in the hydrous part.

Preferably, when p-anisic acid is used as preserving agent, a pH regulator is used to adjust the pH of the two-part composition to be within 5.2-5.8.

Needless to say, the skilled in the art will take care to select the optional adjuvant (s) added to the two-part composition according to the present invention such that the advantageous properties intrinsically associated with the two-part composition according to the present invention are not, or are not substantially, adversely affected by the envisaged addition.

It is easy for the skilled in the art to decide whether to add the adjuvant (s) in the anhydrous part and/or the hydrous part.

According to a preferred embodiment, the two-part composition for caring for keratin materials according to the present invention comprises, relative to the total weight of the two-part composition:

a) 0.5%to 2.0%by weight of ferulic acid as anhydrous part; and

b) a hydrous part containing:

i) from 2%to 15%by weight of at least one polyglycol with polymerization degree no more than 8 selected from; and

ii) from 5%to 30%by weight of at least one C ₃-C ₆ glycol;

Wherein the anhydrous part and the hydrous part are separate.

According to a more preferred embodiment, the two-part composition for caring for keratin materials according to the present invention comprises, relative to the total weight of the two-part composition:

a) 0.5%to 2.0%by weight of ferulic acid as anhydrous part; and

b) a hydrous part containing:

i) from 2%to 15%by weight of at least one polyglycol selected from PET-6 and PEG-8; and

ii) from 10%to 30%by weight of at least one C ₃-C ₆ glycol selected from dipropylene glycol and pentylene glycol;

Wherein the anhydrous part and the hydrous part are separate.

In order to store the two-phase composition according to the present invention, before the anhydrous part and the hydrous part, the anhydrous part and the hydrous part are kept separate from one another in two separate containers or preferably one container. In using a single container, the hydrous part part may be packaged in the body of a container which is closed with a cap containing the anhydrous part, a perforable and/or detachable separator being provided between the anhydrous part and the hydrous part. These packages include those described in FR-A-2,476,607, FA-A-2,453,793 or FR-A-2,645,740, all incorporated herein by reference.

The user may then mix the anhydrous part and the hydrous part to obtain a homogeneous solution, which needs to be used within 7 days when the content of ferulic acid is no less than 1.9%by weight, 15 days when the content of ferulic acid is no less than 1.5%by weight, and 30 days when the content of ferulic acid is no less than 1.0%by weight, relative to the solution containing it upon mixing.

Feulic acid can quickly dissolve in the hydrous part upon mixing.

The mixing can be done by hand-shaking.

Method and use

Another object of the present invention is to provide a process for caring for keratin materials.

The keratin materials include the skin, in particular the face.

The two-part composition according to the present invention may be used for caring for keratin materials.

Thus, according to another aspect, the present invention provides is a process for caring for keratin materials, comprising mixing the anhydrous part and the hydrous part of the two-part composition as described above together to form a solution and applying the solution to the keratin materials.

Unless otherwise defined, all technical and scientific terms used herein have the same meaning as commonly understood by those skilled in the art the present invention belongs to. When the definition of a term in the present description conflicts with the meaning as commonly understood by those skilled in the art the present invention belongs to, the definition described herein shall apply.

Unless otherwise specified, all numerical values expressing amount of ingredients and the like which are used in the description and claims are to be understood as being modified by the term “about” . Accordingly, unless indicated to the contrary, the numerical values and parameters described herein are approximate values which are capable of being changed according to the desired purpose as required.

The term “and/or” used herein refers to one or all of the elements mentioned.

The terms "between" and "ranging from" used herein should be understood as including the limits.

The terms “containing” and “comprising” used herein respectively cover both the case that only the elements mentioned present and the case that other unmentioned elements in addition to the elements mentioned present.

All percentages in the present invention refer to weight percentage, unless otherwise specified.

The examples that follow are aimed at illustrating the two-part compositions according to the present invention, but are not in any way a limitation of the scope of the present invention.

EXAMPLES

Example 1: Preparation of compositions

The two-part compositions according to invention formulas (inv. ) and comparative formulas (comp. ) comprising the ingredients shown in the following table were prepared, with all amounts expressed by percentages by weight of active matter with regard to the total weight of each composition.

An hydrous part is obtained from Phase A and Phase B, and an anhydrous part is obtained from Phase G.

Com. 1 is a composition of comparative formula without any glycols; and Com 2 is a composition of comparative formula without any polyglycol with polymerization degree no more than 8.

Preparation process:

The main components of the hydrous part of the two-part composition according to the present invention are all hydrophilic liquid ingredients at room temperature, thus no specific formulation process is needed for the preparation of the two-part compositions. The requirement on heating/homogenizing process is depending on the preservative system and the polymer thickener (if used) . In particular, the two-part compositions were prepared as follows:

1. Solubilize phase A (water phase, with P-anisic acid inside) with disperser and heat to 60 ℃;

2. Cool the emulsion to room temperature, keep agitation;

3. Adjust the formula pH value to 5.2-5.8 with phase B to obtain the hydrous part;

4. Provide phase G (anhydrous part) .

In this example, phase B was used due to the existance of P-anisic acid, which is a perservative being stable in water under pH of 5.2-5.8. If P-aninsic acid is not used in the two-part composition, no phase B will be unnecessary.

Example 2: evaluation of compositions

Evaluation of the dissolution behaviour

The dissolution behaviour of ferulic acid in the hydrous part for each composition was evaluated as follows.

Phase G was added into the hydrous part 24 hours after formulation of the hydrous part and then a fresh-mixing process was conducted by hand-shaking at the frequency of three times per second to observe the time needed for complete dissolution of ferulic acid in the hydrous part.

“Fast dissolution” is achieved if the mixing and shaking is no longer than 40 seconds, and the acceptable criterion of dissolution is achieved when there are no visible particles.

The results of dissolution behavior were summarized in table 2.

Evaluation of the skin feeling

The skin feeling after application was evaluated for each of the two-part compositions of invention formulas and compositions of comparative formulas freshly mixed after formulation of the hydrous part. The freshly mixed compositions were transparent.

Parameter: Sensation of different type of discomfort and the level;

Test design: Sequential monadic evaluation in blind, randomized design;

Panel: 5 women, all skin types;

Zone: face (upper cheek) ;

Evaluate time: immediate to 5 minutes after application.

The panellists were asked to score for the skin feeling after application based on the following standards, wherein skin feeling includes watery, greasy, slippery and sticky feeling.

The results of the average score of skin feeling were summarized in the following table.

Item	Inv. 1	Inv. 2	Inv. 3	Inv. 4	Com. 1	Com. 2
Time to dissolve	20s	20s	20s	20s	30s	More than 40s
Skin feeling	4.4	4.6	5.0	5.0	3.4	3.6
Discomfort	4.8	4.8	5.0	5.0	2.8	4.8

It was observed from the results above that ferulic acid can quickly dissolve in the hydrous part for the compositions of invention formulas according to the present invention and the freshly mixed composition according to the present invention presents good skin feeling without perceivable irritation upon application.

Claims

A two-part composition for caring for keratin materials comprising:

a) an anhydrous part containing ferulic acid; and

b) a hydrous part containing:

i) at least one polyglycol with polymerization degree no more than 8; and

ii) at least one C ₃-C ₆ glycol;

Wherein the anhydrous part and the hydrous part are separate.
The two-part composition according to Claim 1, wherein the two-phase composition comprises from 0.1%to 3.0%by weight, preferably from 0.5%to 2.0%by weight of ferulic acid, relative to the total weight of the two-part composition.
The two-part composition according to Claim 1 or 2, wherein the polyglycol with polymerization degree no more than 8 is selected from polyethylene glycol and polypropylene glycol with polymerization degree no more than 8.
The two-part composition according to Claim 1 or 2, wherein the polyglycol with polymerization degree no more than 8 is selected from PEG-2, PEG-3, PEG-4, PEG-5, PEG-6, PEG-7, PEG-8, PPG-2, PPG-3, PPG-4, PPG-5, PPG-6, PPG-7 and PPG-8.
The two-part composition according to any one of Claims 1-4, wherein the two-part composition comprises from 1%to 20%by weight, preferably from 2%to 15%by weight of polyglycol, relative to the total weight of the two-part composition.
The two-part composition according to any one of Claims 1-5, wherein the two-part composition comprises from 5%to 30%by weight, preferably from 10%to 30%by weight of C ₃-C ₆ glycol, relative to the total weight of the two-part composition.
The two-part composition according to Claim 1, wherein the two-part composition comprises from 0.5%to 1%by weight of ferulic acid, from 5%to 8%by weight of polyglycol selected from PEG-6 and PEG-8, and from 12%to 18%by weight of C ₃-C ₆ glycol selected from propylene glycol, butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol and pentylene glycol, relative to the total weight of the two-part composition.
The two-part composition according to Claim 1, wherein the two-part composition comprises from 1%to 1.5%by weight of ferulic acid, from 6%to 12%by weight of polyglycol selected from PEG-6 and PEG-8 and from 18%to 25%by weight of C ₃-C ₆ glycol selected from propylene glycol, butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol and pentylene glycol, relative to the total weight of the two-part composition.
The two-part composition according to Claim 1, wherein the two-part composition comprises from 1.5%to 1.9%by weight of ferulic acid, from 6%to 14%by weight of polyglycol selected from PEG-6 and PEG-8, and from 22%to 28%by weight of C ₃-C ₆ glycol selected from propylene glycol, butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol and pentylene glycol, relative to the total weight of the two-part composition.
The two-part composition according to Claim 1, wherein the two-part composition comprises from 1.9%to 3.0%by weight of ferulic acid, from 10%to 15%by weight of polyglycol selected from PEG-6 and PEG-8, and from 24.5%to 30%by weight of C ₃-C ₆ glycol selected from propylene glycol, butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol and pentylene glycol, relative to the total weight of the two-part composition.
The two-part composition according to any one of Claims 1-10, wherein the two-part composition comprises the hydrous part in an amount ranging from 45%to 99.9%by weight, preferably from 80%to 98%by weight, even more preferably 95%to 97%by weight, relative to the total weight of the two-part composition.
The two-part composition according to any one of Claims 1-11, wherein the two-part composition further comprises an additional cosmetic acitve agent selected from enzymes; flavonoids; moisturizers; anti-inflammatory agents; vitamins; depigmenting agents; α-hydroxy acids; retinoids; antibacterial active agents; tensioning agents; ceramides; essential oils; and UV-screening agents.
The two-part composition according to any one of claims 1-12, wherein the two-part composition further comprises a cosmetic adjuvant or additive selected from fragrances, preserving agents, bactericides, opacifiers, dyes, softeners, buffers, electrolytes and pH regulators.
A two-part composition for caring for keratin materials comprising, relative to the total weight of the two-part composition:

a) 0.5%to 2.0%by weight of ferulic acid as anhydrous part; and

b) a hydrous part containing:

i) from 2%to 15%by weight of at least one polyglycol selected from PEG-6 and PEG-8; and

ii) from 10%to 30%by weight of at least one C ₃-C ₆ glycol selected from dipropylene glycol and pentylene glycol;

Wherein the anhydrous part and the hydrous part are separate.
A process for caring for keratin materials, comprising mixing the anhydrous part and the hydrous part of the two-part composition according to any one of claims 1-14 together to form an a solution and applying the solution to the keratin materials.