FR2900047A1 - Cosmetic use of a diphenyl-methane hydroxy analog derivative in a composition to decrease imperfections on oily skin - Google Patents

Abstract

Cosmetic use of a diphenyl-methane hydroxy analog derivative (I) in a composition comprising a medium, to decrease skin imperfections of oily skin. Cosmetic use of a diphenyl-methane hydroxy analog derivative of formula (I) in a composition comprising a medium, to decrease skin imperfections of oily skin. R1 : H, methyl, 2-4C alkyl, -OH or halo; R2 : H, methyl or 2-5C alkyl; R3 : methyl or 2-5C alkyl; and R4, R5 : H, methyl, 2-5C alkyl, -OH or halo. Independent claims are included for: (1) a composition comprising (I) and additional ingredient of oily skin care such as matifying agent, abrasive filler and/or peeling agent; (2) cosmetic set comprising a container being closed by a stopper, enclosing a compartment, and a composition comprising (I) disposed inside that compartment; and (3) a cosmetic care of fatty skin, comprising topical application of the composition on the skin. [Image].

Description

The present invention relates to the use of at least one derivative

  hydroxylated diphenyl methane of formula (I) in a composition, said derivative and / or said composition being intended to prevent and / or reduce skin imperfections, in particular oily skin.

  It also relates to compositions comprising (a) at least said hydroxylated diphenyl methane derivative and (b) at least one ingredient and / or active ingredient for the treatment of oily skin, as well as to a cosmetic process for the care of oily skin, in particular for matting the skin, comprising the topical application thereto, of a composition containing at least said hydroxylated diphenyl methane derivative.

  By "matifying", we mean to make the skin visibly duller, less brilliant. The matifying effect of the composition can in particular be evaluated using a gonioreflectometer, by measuring the ratio R between the specular reflection and the diffuse reflection. A value of R less than or equal to 2 generally reflects a matting effect.

  The shine of the skin is a problem particularly affecting adolescents but can also manifest itself in adulthood under the effect of a hyperproduction of androgens. A shiny or oily skin is generally hyper-seborrhoeic skin characterized by an excessive secretion and excretion of sebum generally leading to a sebum level greater than 200 μg / cm 2 measured at the forehead.

  Sebum is the natural product of the sebaceous gland which is an appendage of the pilosebaceous unit. It is essentially a more or less complex mixture of lipids. Typically, the sebaceous gland produces squalene, triglycerides, aliphatic waxes, cholesterol waxes, and possibly free cholesterol (Stewart, M.E., Semin Dermatol 11, 100-105 (1992)). The action of bacterial lipases converts a variable part of the triglycerides formed into free fatty acids. R4 R5 The sebocyte constitutes the competent cell of the sebaceous gland. The production of sebum is associated with a program of terminal differentiation of this cell. During this differentiation, the metabolic activity of the sebocyte is essentially focused on the biosynthesis of lipids (lipogenesis) and more precisely on the neosynthesis of fatty acid. If sebum is normally a natural moisturizer of the epidermis, overproduction of sebum can cause aesthetic discomfort, such as shiny skin, poor makeup, blackheads or blackheads.

  The skin imperfections of oily skin may be more or less visible depending on the phototype of the subjects, in particular on the skins of subjects with a high phototype, that is to say the skins of subjects with phototype III to VI, defined according to the classification of skin. Fitzpatrick relies on the skin's reactivity to the effects of solar radiation: 1 always burns, never tans It always burns, little bronze III burns moderately, bronze gradually IV burns weakly, bronze very easily V rarely burns, intensely bronze VI does not burn never, strongly pigmented The oily skin of men's faces, subject to daily shaving, is also particularly prone to skin lesions. To fight against hyperseborrhoea, it has therefore been proposed in the prior art various compounds which, by topical application to the skin, are likely to reduce lipogenesis in the sebocytes and consequently limit the production of sebum . Several cosmetic compositions capable of offering a solution to these problems have been proposed in the prior art. These compositions comprise, in particular, as active principle: powders which make it possible to absorb the sebum and thus to mattify the skin by a mechanical effect; alpha- or beta-hydroxyacids which, by their keratolytic effect, favor the expulsion of horny plugs; astringent active agents making it possible to combat the dilation of the sebaceous follicles; - Exfoliating active ingredients to reduce the thickness of the skin; and - active agents that act on the biochemical mechanisms, in particular enzymes, involved in the production of sebum.

  But there is still the need for cosmetic or dermatological compositions to avoid aesthetic disorders associated with the overproduction of sebum. It is in this context that the Applicant proposes to use hydroxylated diphenylmethane derivatives of formula (I) in compositions, said derivative and / or said composition being intended to reduce skin imperfections of oily skin. According to the invention, the term "skin imperfections of oily skin" is understood to mean, in particular, aesthetic disorders such as shiny skin, poorer hold of makeup, a thick skin texture generally associated with a lack of desquamation, a skin whose Follicular orifices are dilated or filled with tiny horned spicules, or even blackheads or comedones (resulting however more from a phenomenon of retention than from an increase in excretion).

  The hydroxylated diphenyl methane derivatives of formula (I) are known from the application WO2004 / 105736 as tyrosinase inhibitors and the application DE10324567 for combating microorganisms of the skin and / or the scalp.

  But to the knowledge of the Applicant, it is not suggested to use these hydroxylated diphenylmethane derivatives in compositions for the care of oily skin, which is an aesthetic disorder related to an overproduction of sebum, distinct and independent of the disorders dermatological conditions that also imply a proliferation of microorganisms on the skin.

  The subject of the present invention is therefore the cosmetic use of at least one hydroxylated diphenylmethane derivative of formula (I) in which: R 1 is chosen from a hydrogen atom, a methyl group, a linear alkyl chain or branched, saturated or unsaturated, having from 2 to 4 carbon atoms, an -OH group, and a halogen, - R2 is chosen from a hydrogen atom, a methyl group, a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl chain, having 2 to 5 carbon atoms, R 3 is chosen from a methyl group or a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl chain having from 2 to 5 carbon atoms, R 4 and R 5 are independently one of the following: another selected from a hydrogen atom, a methyl group, a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl chain having from 2 to 5 carbon atoms, an OHOH group or a halogen in a cosmetic composition comprising a physiological medium Such a derivative and / or said composition is intended to ameliorate cutaneous imperfections, in particular oily skin.

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  Hydroxylated diphenylmethane derivatives The hydroxylated diphenylmethane derivatives useful in the compositions of the invention are described in WO2004 / 105736 and DE10324567, incorporated by reference in the present invention.

  These compounds have the following formula (I), R 4 s in which: R 1 is chosen from a hydrogen atom, a methyl group, a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl chain having from 2 to 4 carbon atoms, a group OH OH, and a halogen, R2 is chosen from a hydrogen atom, a methyl group, a linear or branched alkyl chain, saturated or unsaturated, having from 2 to 5 carbon atoms, R 3 is chosen from a grouping methyl or a linear or branched alkyl chain, saturated or unsaturated, having 2 to 5 carbon atoms, - R4 and R5 are independently of one another selected from a hydrogen atom, a methyl group, an alkyl chain linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, having from 2 to 5 carbon atoms, a group OHOH or a halogen.

  The groups OH, R1, R4 and R5 may be in the ortho, meta or para position relative to the bond formed with the carbon connecting the two aromatic rings to each other.

  Also included in the compounds of the invention having the substituted phenyl groups and for which R2 and R3 are distinct, the enantiomeric forms of S configuration, enantiomers of R configuration or their racemate mixture.

  According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, a compound of formula (I) is used in which: R1, R2, R4 and R5 denote a hydrogen atom; - R3 is a methyl group; the OHOH groups are in the ortho and para position with respect to the bond formed with the carbon bonding between them between the two aromatic rings.

  This compound corresponds to the following formula (II) named 4- (1-phenylethyl) -1,3-benzenediol or 4- (1-phenylethyl) -1,3-dihydroxybenzene or otherwise named phenyethyl resorcinol or phenylethylbenzenediol or styrylresorcinol. This compound has a CAS number 85-27-8. Such a compound is marketed under the name SYMWHITE 377 or BIO 377 by SYMRISE.

  The quantity of diphenylmethane compound according to one of the formula (I) or formula (II) present in the composition according to the invention will especially be from 0.0001 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, in particular from 0.001 to 15%, from 0.001 to 10%, from 0.001 to 8%, preferably from 0.001 to 5%, from 0.01 to 5%, from 0.01 to 4%, from 0.01 to 3%. %, from 0.01 to 2% and even more preferably from 0.01 to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Advantageously, it will be possible to use in the compositions according to the invention in combination with said hydroxylated diphenylmethane derivative of formula (I) or (II) as defined above, at least one ingredient and / or additional care active ingredient. skin, especially oily skin care.

  In particular, the additional active ingredients and ingredients described in patent applications WO2004 / 105736 and DE10324567, incorporated herein by reference, may be combined, among which depigmenting agents, preservatives, antimicrobial agents, antiperspirants, metal chelators, UV filters, hydrolysed proteins, antioxidants, vitamins, anti-inflammatory agents, anti-irritant agents, moisturizers, plant extracts, cosmetic adjuvants, and mixtures thereof.

  As depigmenting agents, there may be mentioned especially vitamin C and its derivatives and in particular the vit CG, CP and 3-O ethyl vitamin C, alpha and beta arbutin, lucinol and its derivatives, kojic acid, resorcinol and its derivatives, tranexamic acid and its derivatives, gentisic acid, homogentisate, methyl gentisate or homogentisate, dioic acid, D calcium panthetine sulfonate, lipoic acid, ellagic acid, vitamin B3, tranexamic acid, lipoic acid, linoleic acid and its derivatives, ceramides and their homologs, plant derivatives such as chamomile, bearberry, the family of aloe (vera, ferox, bardensis) , mulberry, skullcap, without this list being exhaustive.

  Humidifying or moisturizing agents that may especially be mentioned include glycerol and its derivatives, urea and its derivatives, in particular Hydrovance marketed by National Starch, lactic acids, hyaluronic acid, AHAs, BHAs and sodium pidolate. , xylitol, serine, sodium lactate, ectoin and its derivatives, chitosan and its derivatives, collagen, plankton, imperata cylindra extract marketed under the name Moist 24 by Sederma.

  It is also possible to use additional ingredients and / or active agents for the care of oily skin, such as mattifying agents, abrasive fillers or exfoliating agents, desquamating agents, antimicrobial agents, soothing agents, anti-inflammatory agents, sebo-regulating agents, antioxidants, healing agents, astringent agents, and mixtures thereof.

  The invention therefore relates to the use in a composition of at least one hydroxylated diphenyl methane derivative of formula (I) or (II) and of at least one skin care ingredient and / or active agent chosen from the agents depigmenting agents, preservatives, antiperspirants, metal chelators, UV filters, hydrolysed proteins, vitamins, moisturizers, plant extracts, mattifying agents, abrasive fillers or exfoliating agents, desquamating agents, agents antimicrobials, soothing agents, anti-inflammatory agents, sebo-regulating agents, antioxidants, healing agents, astringent agents, and mixtures thereof.

  The composition may be a care composition and / or cleaning and / or makeup, intended to be rinsed or not rinsed. Preferably, it will be a non-rinsed skincare composition. Where the composition will include exfoliating agents or abrasive fillers, it will preferably be rinsed.

  Additional Ingredients and Actives for Skincare Treatment Matifying Agents

  By 'matifying agent' is meant agents intended to make the skin visibly duller, less shiny.

  The matting effect of the agent and / or of the composition containing it can in particular be evaluated using a gonioreflectometer, by measuring the ratio R between the specular reflection and the diffuse reflection. A value of R less than or equal to 2 generally reflects a matting effect.

  The matting agent may especially be chosen from a rice starch or a maize starch, kaolinite, silicas, talc, an extract of pumpkin seeds, cellulose microbeads, vegetable fibers, synthetic fibers, in particular polyamides, microspheres of expanded acrylic copolymers, polyamide powders, silica powders, polytetrafluoroethylene powders, silicone resin powders, acrylic copolymer powders, wax powders, polyethylene powders, powders crosslinked organopolysiloxane elastomer coated with silicone resin, talc / titanium dioxide / alumina / silica composite powders, amorphous mixed silicates powders, acrylic polymer powders, silicate particles and in particular mixed silicate particles, and their mixtures.

  Examples of matifying agents that may be mentioned include: rice or maize starch, in particular starch octenyl succinate aluminum sold under the name Dry Flo by the company National Starch, kaolinite; - silicas; - talc; an extract of pumpkin seeds as marketed under the name Curbilene by the company Indena; cellulose microbeads as described in the patent application L'OREAL E P 1,562,562; - fibers, such as silk, cotton, wool, flax, cellulose fibers extracted from wood, vegetables or algae, polyamide (nylon), modified cellulose, poly-p-phenylene terephtamide , acrylic, polyolefin, glass, silica, aramid, carbon, Teflon, insoluble collagen, polyesters, polyvinyl chloride or vinylidene, polyvinyl alcohol, polyacrylonitrile, chitosan, polyurethane, polyethylene phthalate, fibers formed from a mixture of polymers, resorbable synthetic fibers, and mixtures thereof described in patent application L'OREAL EP 1 151 742; microspheres of expanded acrylic copolymers such as those sold by EXPANCEL under the names EXPANCEL 551, fillers with an optical effect as described in patent application FR 2 869 796, in particular: polyamide powders (Nylon) ), such as Atofina type Orgasol Nylon 12 particles having a mean size of 10 microns and a refractive index of 1.54, silica powders, for example Miyoshi Silica beads SB150 of medium size. microns and refractive index 1.45, - polytetrafluoroethylene powders, such as PTFE ceridust 9205F from Clariant of average size 8 microns and refractive index 1.36, - silicone resin powders such as Silicon resin Tospearl 145A of GE Silicone with a mean size of 4.5 microns and a refractive index of 1.41, the powders of acrylic copolymers, in particular of methyl poly (meth) acrylate, such as PMMA Jurymer M particles Nihon Junyoki BI of average size 8 microns and refractive index 1.49, or the Micropearl M100 and F 80 ED particles of the company Matsumoto Yushi-Seiyaku; wax powders such as paraffin wax microease 114S particles of micropowders having a mean size of 7 microns and a refractive index of 1.54; polyethylene powders, especially comprising at least one ethylene / acrylic acid copolymer, and in particular consisting of ethylene / acrylic acid copolymers such as the Sumitomo Flobeads EA 209 particles (of average size 10 microns and refractive index 1.48), the elastomeric crosslinked organopolysiloxane powders coated with silicone resin, in particular with silsesquioxane resin, as described for example in US Pat. No. 5,538,793. Such elastomer powders are sold under the names KSP-100, KSP-101, KSP-102, KSP-103, KSP-104, KSP-105 by the company Shin. ETSU, and talc / titanium dioxide / alumina / silica composite powders such as those sold under the name Coverleaf AR-80 by Catalyst & Chemicals, and their blends - composites These absorbents and / or adsorbent sebum as described in the same patent application FR 2 869 796. Mention may in particular be made of: silica powders, such as, for example, the porous silica microspheres sold under the name "SILICA BEADS SB- 700 "marketed by the company MYOSHI, the" SUNSPHERE H51 "," SUNSPHERE H33 "," SUNSPHERE H53 "marketed by the company ASAHI GLASS; the polydimethylsiloxane-coated amorphous silica microspheres sold under the name "SA SUNSPHERE H-33" and "SA SUNSPHERE H-53" marketed by the company ASAHI GLASS; amorphous mixed silicate powders, especially of aluminum and of magnesium, such as, for example, that sold under the name NEUSILIN UFL2 by the company Sumitomo. polyamide (nylon) powders, for example "ORGASOL 4000" marketed by ATOCHEM, and acrylic polymer powders, in particular polymethyl methacrylate, for example "COVABEAD LH85" marketed by the company WACKHERR; polymethyl methacrylate / ethylene glycol dimethacrylate, such as, for example, "DOW CORNING 5640 MICROSPONGE SKIN OIL ADSORBER" marketed by Dow Corning, or "Ganzpearl GMP-0820" marketed by Ganz Chemical; allyl polymethacrylate / ethylene glycol dimethacrylate, such as, for example, "POLY-PORE L200" or "POLY-PORE E200" marketed by AMCOL; ethylene glycol dimethacrylate / lauryl methacrylate copolymer, such as, for example, the "POLYTRAP 6603" sold by the company Dow Corning; silicate particles, such as alumina silicate; ; mixed silicate particles, such as: aluminum silicate magnesium particles, such as saponite or aluminum magnesium silicate hydrated with a sodium sulphate sold under the trade name Sumecton by the company Kunimine ; o magnesium silicate complex, hydroxyethylcellulose, black cumin oil, pumpkin oil and phospholipids or Lucas Meyer's Matipure. and their mixtures.

  As preferred matting agents, it is possible to use, according to the invention, an extract of pumpkin seeds, a rice or maize starch, kaolinite, silicas, talc, polyamide powders, polyethylene powders and copolymer powders. acrylics, microspheres of expanded acrylic copolymers, silicone resin microbeads, mixed silicate particles and mixtures thereof.

  Abrasive fillers or exfoliation agents As exfoliation agents that may be used in rinsed compositions according to the invention, mention may be made, for example, of exfoliant or scrubbing particles of mineral, vegetable or organic origin. Thus, for example, beads or polyethylene powder, nylon powder, polyvinyl chloride powder, pumice, ground apricot kernels or nut shells can be used. sawdust, glass beads, alumina, and mixtures thereof.

  Exfogreen of Solabia (bamboo extract), extracts of strawberry akenes (Greentech strawberry Akenes), peach stone powder, apricot kernel powder, and finally In the field of vegetable powders with an abrasive effect, let us mention the cranberry powder.

  As abrasive fillers or preferred exfoliation agents according to the invention, mention may be made of peach kernel powder, apricot kernel powder, cranberry kernel powder, strawberry achene extracts, bamboo extracts. By the additional active expression of care of oily skin is meant, in the context of the present invention, a compound which has by itself, that is to say not requiring the intervention of an agent. external to activate it, a biological activity which can be in particular: - an desquamating activity (which allows the opening of comedones), and / or - an antimicrobial activity (especially on P. acnes), and / or - a soothing or anti-inflammatory activity, and / or - a sebo-regulatory activity, and / or - an antioxidant activity (which prevents the oxidation of squalene and the formation of comedones) - a healing activity; - an astringent activity.

  Examples of active agents associated with the hydroxylated diphenylmethane derivatives that can be used in the compositions of the invention include, in particular, desquamating agents, antimicrobial agents, soothing agents, anti-inflammatory agents, sebo-regulating agents, antioxidants and mixtures thereof.

  Preferably, the composition according to the invention will comprise as additional active agent at least one sebum-regulating agent. In a particular embodiment, the composition may further optionally comprise an antimicrobial agent.

  More preferably it may further comprise a desquamating agent. And to further increase the efficacy and / or the tolerance of said compositions, it may additionally add soothing or anti-inflammatory agents, antioxidants, cicatrizing agents, astringent agents, and mixtures thereof.

  Examples of compounds for each class include:

  Sebo-regulating or anti-seborrhoeic agents By "sebo-regulating or anti-seborrhoeic agents" is meant in particular agents capable of regulating the activity of the sebaceous glands. There may be mentioned in particular: retinoic acid, benzoyl peroxide, sulfur, vitamin B6 (or pyridoxine), selenium chloride, sea fennel; mixtures of cinnamon extract, tea and octanoylglycine such as Sepicontrol A5 TEA from Seppic; - the mixture of capryloyl glycine, sarcosine and extract cinnamomum zeylanicum marketed in particular by the company SEPPIC under the trade name Sepicontrol A5; zinc salts such as zinc gluconate, zinc pyrrolidone carboxylate (or zinc pidolate), zinc lactate, zinc aspartate, zinc carboxylate, zinc salicylate, zinc cysteate; copper salts, in particular copper pidolate; extracts of plants of the species Arnica montana, Cinchona succirubra, Eugenia caryophyllata, Humulus lupulus, Hypericum perforatum, Mentha piperita, Rosmarinus officinalis, Salvia oficinalis and Thymus vulgaris, all sold for example by the company MARUZEN; - meadowsweet extracts (Spiraea ulamaria) such as that sold under the name Sébonormine by the company Silab; algae extracts laminaria saccharina such as that sold under the name Phlorogine by the company Biotechmarine; mixtures of extracts of burnet root (Sanguisorba officinalis / Poterium officinale), of ginger rhizomes (Zingiber officinalis) and of cinnamon bark (Cinnamomum cassia), such as that sold under the name Sebustop by the company Solabia; flax seed extracts such as that sold under the name Linumine by Lucas Meyer; Phellodendron extracts such as those sold under the name Phellodendron extract BG by the company Maruzen or Oubaku liquid B by the company Ichimaru Pharcos; mixtures of argan oil, of Serenoa serrulata (saw palmetto) extract and of sesame seed extract, such as that sold under the name Regu SEB by the company Pentapharm; mixtures of extracts of willowweed, terminalia chebula, nasturtium and bioavailable zinc (microalgae), such as the product sold under the name Seborilys by the green tech company; extracts of Pygeum afrianum, such as that sold under the name Pygeum afrianum sterolic lipid extract by the company Euromed; extracts of Serenoa serrulata such as those sold under the name Viapure Sabal by the company Actives International, or those sold by the company Euromed; mixtures of extracts of plantain, berberis aquifolium and sodium salicylate, such as the product sold under the name Seboclear by the company Rahn; clove extract, such as that sold under the name Clove Extract Powder by the company Maruzen; argan oil such as that sold under the name Lipofructyl by Serobiological Laboratories; lactic protein filtrates, such as the product sold under the name Normaseb by the company Sederma; extracts of alga Laminaria, such as that sold under the name Laminarghane by the company Biotechmarine; extracts of cane sugar, such as the product marketed under the name Policasonol by Sabinsa; oligosaccharides of algae laminaria digitata such as that sold under the name Phycosaccharide AC by the company Codif; sulphonated shale oil, such as that sold under the name Ichtyol Pale by the company Ichthyol; - extracts of ulmaire (spiraea ulmaria) such as that sold under the name Cytobiol Ulmaire by the company Libiol; sebacic acid, in particular sold in the form of a sodium polyacrylate gel under the name Sebosoft by Sederma; glucomannans extracted from konjac tubers and modified with alkylsulphonate chains, such as the one sold under the name Biopol Beta by the company Arch Chemical; extracts of Sophora angustifolia, such as those sold under the name Sophora powder or Sophora extract by the company Bioland; extracts of Cinchona succirubra bark such as that sold under the name Red Bark HS by the company Alban Muller; extracts of quillaja saponaria, such as the product sold under the name Panama wood HS by Alban Muller; glycine grafted on an undecylenic chain, such as that sold under the name Lipacide UG OR by the company Seppic; the mixture of oleanolic acid and nordihydroguaiaretic acid, such as that sold in the form of a gel under the name AC.Net by Sederma; Phthalimidoperoxyhexanoic acid; trialkyl citrate (C12-C13) sold under the name COSMACOL ECI by the company Sasol; trialkyl citrate (C14-C15) sold under the name COSMACOL ECL by the company Sasol; 10-hydroxydecanoic acid, and in particular mixtures of 10-hydroxydecanoic acid, of sebacic acid and of 1,10-decandiol, such as that sold under the name Acnacidol BG by the company Vincience; specific PPAR-y activators, such as those described in application WO 2005/053632; extracts of plants of the genus Silybum; sapogenins or plant extracts containing them, in particular extracts of Dioscorea rich in diosgenin; and Eugenia caryophyllata extracts containing eugenol and eugenyl glucoside, and mixtures thereof.

  Preferred sebo-regulating agents that can be used according to the invention include: - sea fennel; mixtures of cinnamon extract, tea and octanoylglycine such as Sepicontrol A5 TEA from Seppic; - the mixture of capryloyl glycine, sarcosine and extract cinnamomum zeylanicum marketed in particular by the company SEPPIC under the trade name Sepicontrol A5; zinc salts such as zinc gluconate, zinc pyrrolidone carboxylate (or zinc pidolate), zinc lactate, zinc aspartate, zinc carboxylate, zinc salicylate, zinc cysteate; copper salts, in particular copper pidolate; - meadowsweet extracts (Spiraea ulamaria) such as that sold under the name Sébonormine by the company Silab; algae extracts laminaria saccharina such as that sold under the name Phlorogine by the company Biotechmarine; mixtures of extracts of burnet root (Sanguisorba officinalis / Poterium officinale), of ginger rhizomes (Zingiber officinalis) and of cinnamon bark (Cinnamomum cassia), such as that sold under the name Sebustop by the company Solabia; sapogenins or plant extracts containing them, in particular Dioscenyl-rich Dioscorea extracts, and mixtures thereof. Antiperspirants may also be mentioned, such as: aluminum and / or zirconium salts; complexes of zirconium hydroxychloride and of aluminum hydroxychloride with an amino acid such as those described in US Pat. No. 3,792,068 commonly known under the name "ZAG complexes". Such complexes are generally known by the name ZAG (when the amino acid is Glycine). The ZAG complexes usually have an Al / Zr quotient ranging from about 1.67 to 12.5 and a Metal / Cl quotient ranging from about 0.73 to 1.93. Among these products, mention may be made of aluminum zirconium octachlorohydrex GLY, aluminum zirconium pentachlorohydrex GLY, aluminum zirconium tetrachlorohydrate GLY and aluminum zirconium trichlorohydrate-GLY. Among the aluminum salts, mention may be made of aluminum chlorohydrate, chlorohydroxyl aluminum, chlorohydroxyl aluminum PEG, aluminum chlorohydrex PG, aluminum dichlorohydrate, aluminum dichlorohydrex PEG, aluminum dichlorohydrex PG, aluminum sesquichlorohydrate, aluminum sesquichlorohydrex PEG, aluminum sesquichlorohydrex PG, alum salts, aluminum sulfate, aluminum zirconium octachlorohydrate, aluminum zirconium pentachlorohydrate, aluminum zirconium tetrachlorohydrate, aluminum zirconium trichlorohydrate and more particularly the aluminum hydrochloride marketed by the company REHEIS under the name MICRODRY ALUMINUM CHLOROHYDRATE or by the company GUILINI CHEMIE under the name ALOXICOLL PF 40. Aluminum and zirconium salts are for example that marketed by the company REHEIS under the name REACH AZP-908-SUF, activated aluminum salts for example that marketed by the company REHE IS under the name REACH 103 or by WESTWOOD under the name WESTCHLOR 200.

  Other deodorant active agents also include zinc salts such as zinc salicylate, zinc sulphate, zinc chloride, zinc lactate, zinc phenolsulfonate; chlorhexidine and salts; diglycerol monocaprate, diglycerol monolaurate, glycerol monolaurate; salts of polyhexamethylene biguanide.

  Anti-microbial agents By anti-microbial agents is meant agents having effects on the specific flora of oily skin, such as, for example, P acnes. These effects can be either bactericidal or bacterial anti-adhesion (prevents and / or reduces the adhesion of microorganisms) or acting on the biofilm of bacteria to prevent their multiplication. Mention may in particular be made of the active agents and preservatives with antimicrobial activity mentioned in application DE10324567, incorporated in the present invention by reference.

  We can also mention: a hop cone extract (HOP CO2-TO extract from Flavex), a Millepertius extract (ST John's Wort CO2-TO Flavex extract), Asian acid, extracts of scutellaria baicolensis roots as in Naturogin BMB-CF, piroctone olamine, citralic acid, sperillic acid, ethylhexylglycerine (Sensiva De Shulke), caprylate / gluceryl caprate (ABITEC capmul), calcium sodium phosphosilicate as Bioactive Schott's glasspowder, Schott's Actysse first BG, Ciba's silicon oxides, Metashines (silver derivatives), Bearberry extracts like Gattefossé's Gatuline equalizing, 10-hydroxy-2 decanoic acid as well as Vincient Acnacidol P, sodium ursolate, azelaic acid, di-iodomethyl P tolylsulfone or Angus Flowable Amicale, Malachite from Maprecos, Zincare from Elementis GMBH, arlatone dioic from Unichema , phthalimidoperoxyhexanoic acid or Eureco HC from Chemro n Corporation; ellagic acid; 2,4,4'-trichloro-2'-hydroxy-diphenyl ether (or triclosan), 1- (3 ', 4'-dichlorophenyl) -3- (4'-chlorophenyl) urea (or triclocarban), 3 4,4'-trichlorocarbanilide, 3 ', 4', 5'-trichlorosalicylanilide, phenoxyethanol, phenoxypropanol, phenoxyisopropanol, hexamidine isethionate, metronidazole and its salts, miconazole and its salts, itraconazole, terconazole, econazole, ketoconazole, saperconazole, fluconazole, clotrimazole, butoconazole, oxiconazole, sulfaconazole, sulconazole, terbinafine, ciclopirox, ciclopiroxolamine, undecylenic acid and its salts, benzoyl peroxide, 3-hydroxy benzoic acid, 4-hydroxy benzoic acid, phytic acid, N-acetyl-L-cysteine, lipoic acid, azelaic acid and its salts, acid arachidonic acid, resorcinol, 3,4,4'-trichlorocarbanalide, octopirox or piroctone olamine, octoxyglycerine or octoglycerine, octanoylglycine (Lipacid C8G from Seppic), rylyl glycol, 10-hydroxy-2-decanoic acid, dichlorophenyl imidazol dioxolan and its derivatives described in patent application WO9318743, zinc derivatives and in particular zinc pidolate (Zincidone from Solabia), copper derivatives and in particular copper pidolate (Cuivridone de Solabia), salicylic acid and its derivatives, iodopropynyl butylcarbamate, 3,7,11-trimethyldodeca-2,5,10-trienol or farnesol, phytosphingosines; Seppic Sepicontrol, an argan extract such as Argapure LS9710, Sebosoft Sederma, quaternary ammonium salts such as cetyltrimethylammonium salts, cetylpyridinium salts, ethanol ... and mixtures thereof.

  As agents that prevent and / or reduce the adhesion of microorganisms, mention may be made in particular of: phytanetriol and its derivatives as described in patent application EP 1 529 523, vegetable oils such as wheat germ oil , calendula oil, castor oil, olive oil, avocado oil, sweet almond oil, peanut oil, jojoba oil, sesame oil, apricot kernel oil, sunflower oil, macadamia oil, described in patent EP 1 133 979, or other fatty substances such as cocoamphodiacetate disodium, cocoate of oxyethylenated glyceryl (70E), Poloxamers, hexadecenylsuccinate 18, octoxyglyceryl palmitate, octoxyglyceryl behenate, dioctyl adipate, PPG-15 stearyl ether, C12-C13 di-alcohol tartrate branched derivatives described in EP 1 129 694.

  In particular with respect to the propagation of P acnes, mention may be made of pentylene glycol, nylon-66 (polyamide 66 fibers), rice bran oil, Celvol 540 PV alcohol (Polyvinyl alcohol 72962) , Akorex L from Karlshamns, fructose derivatives. Mention may also be made of certain surfactants having an antimicrobial effect such as cocoampho sodium acetate or diacetate disodium such as Miranol C2M CONC NP, betaines such as cocoyl betaine Genagen KB from Clariant, sodium lauryl ether sulfate such as Emal 270 D Kao, decyl glucoside such as Plantacare 2000 UP, C12-13 dialkyl malate branched as Cosmacol EMI, propylene glycol monoesters such as monolaurate, monocaprylate, propylene glycol monocaprate, sodium lauroyl oat amino acid such as Proteol OAT , lauryl dimethylamine betaine such as Empigen BB / LS as well as quaternary polyammoniums such as Quaternium-24 or Bardac 2050 from Lonza and those described in the L'OREAL patent FR 0 108 283.

  Preferred antimicrobial agents used in the compositions of the invention an agent selected from caprylyl glycol, zinc derivatives including zinc pidolate (Zincidone Solabia), copper derivatives including copper pidolate (Cuivridone Solabia) ), octoglycerine or octoxyglycerine, 10-hydroxy-2-decanoic acid, and mixtures thereof. "Desquamating agent" means any compound capable of acting: 10 - either directly on desquamation by promoting exfoliation, such as 13-hydroxy acids, in particular salicylic acid and its derivatives (of which n-octanoyl 5-salicylic acid); α-hydroxy acids, such as glycolic, citric, lactic, tartaric, malic or mandelic acids; urea; gentisic acid and its derivatives; oligofucoses; cinnamic acid; Saphora japonica extract; resveratrol and certain jasmonic acid derivatives;

  or on the enzymes involved in the desquamation or degradation of corneodesmosomes, glycosidases, stratum corneum chymotryptic enzyme (SCCE) or even other proteases (trypsin, chymotrypsin-like). Mention may be made of aminosulfonic compounds and in particular (N-2-hydroxyethylpiperazine-N-2-ethane) sulfonic acid (HEPES); 2-oxothiazolidine-4-carboxylic acid derivatives (procysteine); glycine-type alpha amino acid derivatives (as described in EP-0 852 949, as well as sodium methyl glycine diacetate marketed by BASF under the trade name TRILON M); honey ; sugar derivatives such as O-octanoyl-6-D-maltose and N-acetyl glucosamine.

  Other desquamating agents that can be used in the composition according to the invention include oligofructoses, EDTA and its derivatives, laminaria extract, o-linoleyl-6D-glucose, (3-hydroxy-2-pentylcyclopentyl) acetic acid , glycerol trilactate, O-octanyl-6'-D-maltose, S carboxymethyl cysteine, silicon derivatives of salicylate as in patent EP 0 796 861, oligofucase as in patent EP 0 218 200, 5-acyl salicylic acid salts, active agents having effects on transglutaminase as in patent EP 0 899 330, jasmonic acid and derivatives as in patent applications EP 1 333 022 and EP 1 333 021.5 Exfolactive de Silab (ficus opuntia indica flower extract), Soypon O from Kawaken fine chemicals (sodium cocoyl sarcosinate)

  Preferred desquamating agents include beta-hydroxy acids such as n-octanoyl-5-salicylic acid; urea; glycolic, citric, lactic, tartaric, malic or mandelic acids; (N-2-hydroxyethylpiperazine-N-2-ethane) sulfonic acid (HEPES); Saphora japonica extract; honey ; N-acetyl glucosamine; sodium methyl glycine diacetate, and mixtures thereof.

  Even more preferably, in the compositions of the invention, an edsquamant agent chosen from n-octanoyl-5-salicylic acid will be used; urea; (N-2-hydroxyethylpiperazine-N-2-ethane) sulfonic acid (HEPES); Saphora japonica extract; honey ; Nacetyl glucosamine; sodium methyl glycine diacetate, and mixtures thereof.

Soothing or anti-irritant agents

  Mention may in particular be made of the soothing or anti-irritant agents mentioned in the applications WO2004 / 105736 and DE10324567, incorporated in the present invention by reference.

  As particular soothing agents that can be used in the composition according to the invention, mention may be made of: procyannidol oligomers, vitamins E, C B5, B3, dextran sulphate, caffeine and its derivatives, pentacyclic triterpenes and plant extracts, containing, b-glycyrrhetinic acid and its salts or derivatives (stearyl glycyrrhetate, 3-stearoyloxy glycyrrhetic acid, glycyrrhetinic acid monoglucuronide) as well as the plants containing it (eg Glycyrrhiza glabra), oleanolic acid and salts thereof, ursolic acid and its salts, boswellic acid and its salts, betulinic acid and its salts, an extract of Paeonia suffruticosa and / or lactiflora, zinc salycilate, phycosshacharides of the company Codif, a Laminaria saccharina extract, Centella asiatica extracts, Canola oil, bisabolol, vitamin E and C diesterphosphoric acid, such as Sepepital EPC from Seppic, chamomile extract, allantoin, oil omega 3 unsaturated oils such as rosehip musk, blackcurrant, ecchium, fish, calophilum oil, plankton extract, capryloyl glycine, Seppicalm VG (nymphea alba and sodium palmitoylproline) from Seppic , an extract of Pygeum, an extract of Boswellia serrata, an extract of Centipeda cunnighami, an extract of Helianthus annus, in particular Helioxin of Silab, an extract of Linum usitatissimum such as Sensiline of Silab, tocotrienols, extracts of Cola nitida, piperonal, clove extract, Epilobium angustifolium extract, aloe vera, Bacopa moniera extract, phytosterols, cornflower water, rose water, dextran as in Modulene of Vincience, a mint extract, in particular mint leaves such as Silab's Calmiskin, anise derivatives, filamentous bacteria such as Vitreoscilla filiformis as described in patent EP 761 204, a rose extract such as Herbasol pink extract, the Stimutex AS from Pentapharm, alkaline earth salts including strontium, niacinamide, and mixtures thereof.

  As preferred soothing agents, use will be made of an agent selected from a rose extract, a clove extract, dextran as in Modulene de Vincience, a mint extract such as Silab's Calmiskin, a mixture of an extract of nymphea alba. and sodium palmitoylproline such as Seppic Seppicalm VG, anise derivatives, Paeonia suffruticosa and / or lactiflora extract, and mixtures thereof.

Anti-inflammatory agents

  In particular, mention may be made of the anti-inflammatory agents cited in the applications WO2004 / 105736 and DE10324567, incorporated in the present invention by reference.

  Particular antiinflammatory agents that can be used according to the invention include cortisone, hydrocortisone, indomethacin, betamethasone, azealic acid, acetaminophen, diclofenac, clobetasol propionate and mixtures thereof. As a preferred anti-inflammatory agent, mention will be made of azelaic acid. Antioxidants Antioxidants (which prevent the oxidation of squalene and the formation of comedones) include: tocopherol and its esters, in particular tocopherol acetate; BHT and BHA. There may also be mentioned polyphenols, tannic acid, epoigallocathechins and natural extracts containing them, anthocyanins, rosemary extracts, olive leaf extracts, green tea, resveratrol and its derivatives, Pycnogenol , ergothineine, N acetylcysteine, biotin, chelants, idebenone, plant extracts such as Pronalen Bioprotect TM from Provital, antiradicals such as vitamin E, coenzyme Q10, bioflavonoids, SOD, phytantriol, lignans, melatonin, pidolates, glutathione. Healing agents Examples of healing agents that may be mentioned include: allantoin, urea, wheat germ oil, certain amino acids such as hydroxyproline, arginine, serine, and also extracts of white lily (eg Phytelene Lys 37EG 16295 from Indena), a yeast extract such as the LS 7225B healer LS (Cognis), tamanu oil, Saccharomyces cerevisiae extract or Biodynes TRF from Arch Chemical, extracts oatmeal, chitosan and derivatives, carrot extracts, Vincenzo artemia or GP4G extract, sodium acexamate, lavandin extracts, extracts of honey or propolis, ximeninic acid and its salts such as Acinoxximininico de Indena, Rosa rugosa oil, Alban Muller's Souci Ami Liposolible, horsetail extracts, Cosmetochem's herbal lemon, Helichryse extracts, Betaglucan and derivatives, Butter shea and its purified fractions, modified exopolysaccharides and Polyaminosac alkylsulfided chars.

  Preferred healing agents according to the invention are tamanu oil, sodium acexamate, honey extracts, horsetail extracts, helichryse extracts, and mixtures thereof.

  Astringent Agents By 'astringent agents' is meant according to the invention agents for controlling the dilation of the sebaceous follicles.

  As astringent agents that can be used in the composition according to the invention, mention may be made of Laricyl LS8865 from Cognis, Phytofirm LS9120 from Cognis, Tanlex VE / VB from Ichimaru Pharcos, laponite, aluminum salts, and Centella extracts ( ex Plantactiv centella de Cognis), Degussa's Varisoft 432 CG, extracts of brown turkey, extracts of mauve, Hammamelis, Almondermin LS 3380 from Cognis, extracts of burdock, Extrapone 9 specia I from Symrise , scutellaria extracts, Ulmaire extracts (ex Cytobiol Ulmaire de Libiol), Bell flavors & fragrances Herb extract B1348, extracts of acacia, elm, white willow, cinnamon, birch, meadowsweet, panama sapogenins, interchemical zinc phenolsulfonate, extracts of gentian, cucumber, walnut, Alban Muller's Epilami mixture.

  Preferred astringent agents according to the invention are scutellaria extract, ulmary extract, close-up queen extract, gentian extract, burdock extract and mixtures thereof.

  According to one particular embodiment of the invention, it will be possible to add to these ingredients and / or active agents for the care of oily skin other agents intended to embellish the appearance and / or texure of the skin. In particular, it will be possible to add, in the compositions of the invention, active agents used to prevent and / or treat the signs of skin aging.

  According to one particular embodiment, the invention also relates to the use of said hydroxylated diphenylmethane derivatives of formula (I) or (II) as defined according to the invention in compositions intended for the care and / or the treatment of persons having a skin of phototype from III to VI.

  The active agent (s) and / or ingredients used in the composition according to the invention may represent from 0.0001 to 20%, preferably from 0.01 to 10% and better still from 0.01 to 1% by weight relative to total weight of the composition.

  The compositions according to the invention are preferably cosmetic compositions for the care of oily skin.

  These compositions are intended for topical application on the face and / or the body. In particular, the composition is applied to the areas of the face or the forehead having a gloss of the skin. It may also be shaving compositions or aftershave, especially for men.

  The compositions according to the invention may be in any of the galenical forms conventionally used for topical application and especially in the form of aqueous, hydroalcoholic, oil-in-water (O / W) or water-in-oil ( E / H) or multiple (triple: W / H / E or H / E / H), aqueous gels, or dispersions of a fatty phase in an aqueous phase using spherules, these spherules being polymeric nanoparticles such as nanospheres and nanocapsules, or lipid vesicles of ionic and / or nonionic type (liposomes, niosomes, oleosomes), nanoemulsions, or thin films. These compositions are prepared according to the usual methods.

  In addition, the compositions used according to the invention may be more or less fluid and have the appearance of a white or colored cream, an ointment, a milk, a lotion, a serum, a paste, a foam. They may optionally be applied to the skin in the form of an aerosol. They may also be in solid form, for example in the form of a stick. It may be a care composition, an exfoliating composition or nettiyage or scrubbing, or a shaving composition such as a shaving foam.

  When the composition used according to the invention comprises an oily phase, it preferably contains at least one oil. It may also contain other fatty substances.

  As oils that can be used in the composition of the invention, mention may be made, for example, of: hydrocarbon-based oils of animal origin, such as perhydrosqualene; hydrocarbon-based oils of vegetable origin, such as liquid triglycerides of fatty acids containing from 4 to 10 carbon atoms, for instance triglycerides of heptanoic or octanoic acids or, for example, sunflower, corn or soybean oils, squash, grape seed, sesame, hazelnut, apricot, macadamia, arara, sunflower, castor oil, avocado, triglycerides of caprylic / capric acids such as those sold by Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810, 812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel, jojoba oil, shea butter oil; esters and synthetic ethers, in particular of fatty acids, such as the oils of formulas R'COOR2 and R'OR2 in which R 'represents the residue of a fatty acid containing from 8 to 29 carbon atoms, and R2 represents a hydrocarbon chain, branched or unbranched, containing from 3 to 30 carbon atoms, for example Purcellin oil, isononyl isononanoate, isopropyl myristate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, octyl-2-dodecyl stearate, octyl-2-dodecyl erucate, isostearyl isostearate; hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate, octyl hydroxystearate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate, diisostearyl malate, triisocetyl citrate, heptanoates, octanoates, decanoates of fatty alcohols; polyol esters, such as propylene glycol dioctanoate, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate and diethylene glycol diisononanoate; and pentaerythritol esters such as pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate; linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, such as paraffin oils, volatile or not, and their derivatives, petroleum jelly, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as parleam oil; fatty alcohols having from 8 to 26 carbon atoms, such as cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and their mixture (cetylstearyl alcohol), octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, oleic alcohol or linoleic alcohol; partially fluorinated hydrocarbon oils and / or silicone oils such as those described in document JP-A-2-295912; silicone oils such as volatile or non-volatile polymethylsiloxanes (PDMS) with a linear or cyclic silicone chain, which are liquid or pasty at room temperature, in particular cyclopolydimethylsiloxanes (cyclomethicones) such as cyclohexasiloxane; polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl, alkoxy or phenyl groups, during or at the end of the silicone chain, groups having from 2 to 24 carbon atoms; phenyl silicones such as phenyltrimethicones, phenyldimethicones, phenyltrimethylsiloxydiphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl-dimethicones, diphenylmethyldiphenyltrisiloxanes, 2-phenylethyltrimethylsiloxysilicates, and polymethylphenylsiloxanes; - their mixtures.

  By hydrocarbon oil is meant in the list of oils mentioned above, any oil predominantly comprising carbon and hydrogen atoms, and optionally ester, ether, fluoro, carboxylic acid and / or alcohol groups.

  The other fatty substances that may be present in the oily phase are, for example, fatty acids containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, such as stearic acid, lauric acid, palmitic acid and oleic acid; waxes such as lanolin, beeswax, carnauba or candelilla wax, paraffin waxes, lignite waxes or microcrystalline waxes, ceresin or ozokerite, synthetic waxes such as polyethylene waxes, waxes Fischer-Tropsch; silicone resins such as trifluoromethyl-C1-4-alkyldimethicone and trifluoropropyldimethicone; and silicone elastomers such as the products sold under the names KSG by the company Shin-Etsu, under the names Trefil, BY29 or EPSX by the company Dow Corning or under the names Gransil by the company Grant Industries.

  These fatty substances may be chosen in a varied manner by those skilled in the art in order to prepare a composition having the desired properties, for example of consistency or texture. According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition according to the invention is a water-in-oil (W / O) or oil-in-water (O / W) emulsion. The proportion of the oily phase of the emulsion may range from 5 to 80% by weight, and preferably from 5 to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The emulsions generally contain at least one emulsifier chosen from amphoteric, anionic, cationic or nonionic emulsifiers, used alone or as a mixture, and optionally a co-emulsifier. The emulsifiers are suitably selected according to the emulsion to be obtained (W / O or O / W). The emulsifier and the co-emulsifier are generally present in the composition, in a proportion ranging from 0.3 to 30% by weight, and preferably from 0.5 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. .

  Examples of emulsifiers for W / O emulsions are dimethicone copolyols such as the mixture of cyclomethicone and dimethicone copolyol, sold under the name DC 5225 C by Dow Corning, and alkyl dimethicone copolyols such as Laurylmethicone copolyol sold under the name "Dow Corning 5200 Formulation Aid" by Dow Corning and Cetyl dimethicone copolyol sold under the name Abil EM 90R by the company Goldschmidt. It is also possible to use, as surfactant of W / O emulsions, a crosslinked solid elastomeric organopolysiloxane comprising at least one oxyalkylenated group, such as those obtained according to the procedure of Examples 3, 4 and 8 of US-A-5,412,004 and examples of US-A-5,811,487, in particular the product of Example 3 (synthesis example) of US-A-5,412,004. and such as that sold under the reference KSG 21 by Shin Etsu.

  For O / W emulsions, mention may be made, for example, as emulsifiers, of nonionic emulsifiers such as oxyalkylenated (more particularly polyoxyethylenated) fatty acid esters of glycerol; oxyalkylenated fatty acid and sorbitan esters; oxyalkylenated fatty acid esters (oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated); oxyalkylenated fatty alcohol ethers (oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated); sugar esters such as sucrose stearate; and mixtures thereof such as the mixture of glyceryl stearate and PEG-40 stearate.

  In known manner, the cosmetic or dermatological composition of the invention may also contain adjuvants usual in the cosmetic or dermatological field, such as hydrophilic or lipophilic gelling agents, preservatives, solvents, perfumes, fillers, UV filters, bactericides, odor absorbers, dyestuffs, plant extracts, salts, antioxidants, basic agents, acids, nonionic, anionic, cationic surfactants.

  The amounts of these various adjuvants are those conventionally used in the field under consideration, and for example from 0.01 to 20% of the total weight of the composition. These adjuvants, depending on their nature, can be introduced into the fatty phase, into the aqueous phase and / or into the lipid vesicles.

  As fillers which can be used in the composition of the invention, mention may be made, for example, besides the pigments, the silica powder; talcum; polyamide particles and in particular those sold under the name ORGASOL by the company Atochem; polyethylene powders; micro-spheres based on acrylic copolymers, such as those made of ethylene glycol dimethacrylate / lauryl methacrylate copolymer sold by Dow Corning under the name Polytrap; expanded powders such as hollow microspheres and in particular the microspheres sold under the name Expancel by the company Kemanord Plast or under the name Micropearl F 80 ED by the company Matsumoto; silicone resin microbeads such as those sold under the name Tospearl by the company Toshiba Silicone; and their mixtures. These fillers may be present in amounts ranging from 0 to 20% by weight and preferably from 1 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

  As hydrophilic or lipophilic gelling agents, there may be mentioned in particular carbopol, luvigel, Hostacerin AMPS, Simulgel, Sepigel, xanthan, guar, cellulose gums, alginates and mixtures thereof. We can also mention hectorites.

  Antioxidants that may be mentioned include polyphenols, tannic acid, epoigallocathechins and natural extracts containing them, anthocyanins, rosemary extracts, olive leaf extracts, green tea, resveratrol and its derivatives. derivatives, Pycnogenol, ergothineine, N acetylcysteine, biotin, chelants, idebenone, plant extracts such as Pronalen Bioprotect TM from Provital, antiradicals such as vitamin E, coenzyme Q10, bioflavonoids , SOD, phytantriol, lignans, melatonin, pidolates, glutathione.

  According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition used according to the invention contains at least one UV filter (or sunscreen) which may be a chemical filter or a physical filter or a mixture of such filters.

  By way of illustration and in a nonlimiting manner, mention may be made of the following families (the names correspond to the CTFA nomenclature of the filters): anthranilates, in particular menthyl anthranilate; benzophenones, in particular benzophenone-1, benzophenone-3, benzophenone-5, benzophenone-6, benzophenone-8, benzophenone-9, benzophenone-12, and preferentially benzophenone-2 (oxybenzone), or Benzophenone-4 (Uvinul MS40 available from BASF); benzylidenecamphers, in particular 3-benzylidene camphor, benzylidenecamphosulfonic acid, camphor benzalkonium methosulphate, polyacrylamidomethylbenzylidene camphor, terephthalylidene di-camphorsulfonic acid, and preferentially 4-methylbenzylidene camphor (Eusolex 6300 available). at Merck); benzimidazoles, in particular benzimidazilate (Neo Heliopan AP available from Haarmann and Reimer), or phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid (Eusolex 232 available from Merck); benzotriazoles, in particular trisiloxane drometzol, or methylenebisbenzotriazolyltetramethylbutylphenol (Tinosorb M available from Ciba); cinnamates, in particular cinoxate, DEA methoxycinnamate, diisopropyl methylcinnamate, dimethoxycinnamate glyceryl ethylhexanoate, isopropyl methoxycinnamate, isoamyl cinnamate, and preferably ethocrylene (Uvinul N35 available from BASF), octyl methoxycinnamate (Parsol MCX available from Hoffmann La Roche), or octocrylene (Uvinul 539 available from BASF); dibenzoylmethanes, especially butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane (Parsol 1789); imidazolines, in particular ethylhexyl dimethoxybenzylidene dioxoimidazoline; PABAs, in particular ethyl dihydroxypropyl PABA, ethylhexyldimethyl PABA, glyceryl PABA, PABA, PEG-25 PABA, and preferentially diethylhexylbutamido-triazone (Uvasorb HEB available from 3V Sigma), ethylhexyltriazone (Uvinul T150 available from BASF), or ethyl PABA (benzocaine); salicylates, especially dipropylene glycol salicyclate, ethylhexyl salicylate, homosalate, or TEA salicylate; triazines, in particular anisotriazine (Tinosorb S available from Ciba); trisiloxane drometrizole, zinc oxide, titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, iron, zirconium, cerium coated or uncoated.

  The amount of filters depends on the desired end use. It may range, for example, from 1 to 20% by weight and better still from 2 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

  The compositions according to the invention may be applied directly to the skin or, alternatively, to occlusive or non-occlusive type cosmetic supports intended to be applied in a localized manner to the skin. The support can be an occlusive support. By way of example, the support consists of a thermoplastic material chosen from high and low density polyethylenes, polypropylenes, polyvinyl chlorides, copolymers of ethylene and vinyl acetate, polyesters and polyurethanes. , or a complex of such materials. These materials may also be present in laminated form with at least one sheet of metal such as aluminum foil. The support layer may be of any suitable thickness which will provide the desired support and protection functions. Preferably, the thickness of the support layer is from about 20 μm to about 1.5 mm. Advantageously, the support layer is sufficiently flexible so as to perfectly fit the profile of the skin, and not to cause the user, a feeling of discomfort. Preferably, however, the support is `non-occlusive '. In the latter case, it is advantageous to use a support consisting of a paper, a porous or perforated thermoplastic material, a woven fabric, a nonwoven fabric or a perforated nonwoven fabric.

  According to another embodiment of the invention, said compositions according to the invention may be combined with orally administered compositions containing cosmetic active agents with a beneficial effect on the appearance of the skin. The invention also relates to a composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, (a) at least one hydroxylated diphenyl methane derivative of formula (I) or of formula (II) as defined previously and (b) at least one ingredient additional care of oily skin selected from a matting agent, an abrasive filler or exfoliating agent and mixtures thereof.

  Examples of matting agents and abrasive fillers / exfoliating agents are described previously in the description.

  In particular, the matting agent is chosen from rice starch or maize starch, kaolinite, silicas, talc, pumpkin seed extract, cellulose microbeads, vegetable fibers, synthetic fibers, microspheres of expanded acrylic copolymers, polyamide powders, silica powders, polytetrafluoroethylene powders, silicone resin powders, acrylic copolymer powders, wax powders, polyethylene powders, crosslinked organopolysiloxane powders silicone resin coated elastomers, talc / titanium dioxide / alumina / silica composite powders, amorphous mixed silicate powders, acrylic polymer powders, silicate particles, mixed silicate particles, and mixtures thereof.

  Examples of exfoliating agents that may be used in compositions according to the invention include exfoliating or exfoliating particles of mineral, vegetable or organic origin. Thus, for example, beads or polyethylene powder, nylon powder, polyvinyl chloride powder, pumice, ground apricot kernels or nut shells can be used. sawdust, glass beads, alumina, bamboo extract, strawberry achenes extract, peach kernel powder, apricot kernel powder, cranberry kernel powder, and their mixtures.

  When the composition will comprise an abrasive filler or an exfoliating agent, it will be a skin cleansing composition for rinsing.

  The composition according to the invention comprising (a) at least one hydroxylated diphenylmethane derivative of formula (I) or of formula (II) as defined previously and (b) at least one additional ingredient for the care of oily skin chosen from matting agent, an abrasive filler or exfoliating agent and mixtures thereof, may further comprise at least one additional agent chosen from depigmenting agents, preservatives, antiperspirants, metal chelators, UV filters, hydrolysed proteins, vitamins , moisturizing agents, plant extracts, desquamating agents, antimicrobial agents, soothing agents, anti-inflammatory agents, sebo-regulating agents, antioxidants, cicatrizing agents, astringent agents, and mixtures thereof.

  Examples of these additional agents, in particular desquamating agents, antimicrobial agents, soothing agents, anti-inflammatory agents, sebo-regulating agents, antioxidants, cicatrizing agents, astringent agents, and mixtures thereof, are previously described in the description.

  Preferred sebo-regulating agents that can be used according to the invention include: - sea fennel; mixtures of cinnamon extract, tea and octanoylglycine such as Sepicontrol A5 TEA from Seppic; - the mixture of capryloyl glycine, sarcosine and extract cinnamomum zeylanicum marketed in particular by the company SEPPIC under the trade name Sepicontrol A5; zinc salts such as zinc gluconate, zinc pyrrolidone carboxylate (or zinc pidolate), zinc lactate, zinc aspartate, zinc carboxylate, zinc salicylate, zinc cysteate; copper salts, in particular copper pidolate; - meadowsweet extracts (Spiraea ulamaria) such as that sold under the name Sébonormine by the company Silab; algae extracts laminaria saccharina such as that sold under the name Phlorogine by the company Biotechmarine; mixtures of extracts of burnet root (Sanguisorba officinalis / Poterium officinale), of ginger rhizomes (Zingiber officinalis) and of cinnamon bark (Cinnamomum cassia), such as that sold under the name Sebustop by the company Solabia; sapogenins or plant extracts containing them, in particular Dioscenyl-rich Dioscorea extracts, and mixtures thereof.

  Preferred antimicrobial agents used in the compositions of the invention an agent selected from caprylyl glycol, zinc derivatives including zinc pidolate (Zincidone Solabia), copper derivatives including copper pidolate (Cuivridone Solabia) ), octoglycerine or octoxyglycerine, 10-hydroxy-2-decanoic acid, and mixtures thereof.

  Preferred desquamating agents include beta-hydroxy acids such as n-octanoyl-5-salicylic acid; urea; glycolic, citric, lactic, tartaric, malic or mandelic acids; (N-2-hydroxyethylpiperazine-N-2-ethane) sulfonic acid (HEPES); Saphora japonica extract; honey ; N-acetyl glucosamine; sodium methyl glycine diacetate, and mixtures thereof.

  Even more preferably, in the compositions of the invention, a desquamating agent chosen from n-octanoyl-5-salicylic acid will be used; urea; (N-2-hydroxyethylpiperazine-N-2-ethane) sulfonic acid (HEPES); Saphora japonica extract; honey ; Nacetyl glucosamine; sodium methyl glycine diacetate, and mixtures thereof.

  As preferred soothing agents, use will be made of an agent selected from a rose extract, a clove extract, dextran as in Modulene de Vincience, a mint extract such as Silab's Calmiskin, a mixture of an extract of nymphea alba. and sodium palmitoylproline such as Seppic Seppicalm VG, anise derivatives, Paeonia suffruticosa and / or lactiflora extract, and mixtures thereof.

  As a preferred anti-inflammatory agent, mention will be made of azelaic acid.

  Preferred healing agents according to the invention are tamanu oil, sodium acexamate, honey extracts, horsetail extracts, helichryse extracts, and mixtures thereof.

  As preferred astringent agents according to the invention, scutellaria extracts, extracts of ilmaire, extracts of queen of the near, extracts of gentian, extracts of burdock and their mixtures will be used.

  According to another embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises (a) at least one hydroxylated diphenylmethane derivative of formula (I) or of formula (II) as defined previously and (b) at least one additional active ingredient of care of oily skin selected from: n-octanoyl 5-salicylic acid; urea; (N-2-hydroxyethylpiperazine-N-2-ethane) sulfonic acid (HEPES); Saphora japonica extract; honey ; N-acetyl glucosamine; sodium methyl glycine diacetate; caprylyl glycol, zinc pidolate, copper pidolate, octoglycerine or octoxyglycerine, 10-hydroxy-2-decanoic acid, rose extract, clove extract, dextran, mint extract a mixture of an extract of nymphea alba and sodium palmitoylproline, anise derivatives, an extract of Paeonia suffruticosa, azelaic acid, sea fennel; a mixture of capryloyl glycine, sarcosine and cinnamomum zeylanicum extract; a mixture of burnet extract, ginger and cinnamon; an extract of Laminaria saccharina; an extract of Spiraea ulmaria; sapogenins or plant extracts containing them; tamanu oil, sodium acexamate, honey extracts, horsetail extracts, helichryse extracts, scutellaria extracts, ilmaire extracts, close-up queen extracts, gentian extracts In another aspect, the invention also relates to a cosmetic assembly comprising: i) a container defining at least one compartment, said container being closed by a closure element; and ii) a composition as described above and disposed within said compartment.

  The container can be in any suitable form. It may especially be in the form of a bottle, a tube, a pot, a case, a box, a bag or a case.

  The closure element may be in the form of a removable cap, a lid, a lid, a tearable strip, or a capsule, in particular of the type comprising a body fixed to the container and an articulated cap. on the body. It can also be in the form of an element ensuring the selective closure of the container, including a pump, a valve, or a valve. The container may be associated with an applicator. The applicator may be in the form of a block of foam or elastomer, a felt, or a spatula. The applicator may be free (puff or sponge) or integral with a rod carried by the closure member, as described for example in US Patent 5,492,426. The applicator may be integral with the container, as described for example the patent FR 2 761 959.

  The product can be contained directly in the container, or indirectly. By way of example, the product may be placed on an impregnated support, in particular in the form of a wipe or a tampon, and arranged (individually or in several) in a box or in a bag. Such a support incorporating the product is described for example in the application WO 01/03538.

  The closure member may be coupled to the container by screwing. Alternatively, the coupling between the closure element and the container is other than by screwing, in particular via a bayonet mechanism, snap-fastening, clamping, welding, gluing, or magnetic attraction. By "latching" is meant in particular any system involving the crossing of a bead or a bead of material by elastic deformation of a portion, in particular of the closure element, then by return to the position not elastically constrained of said portion after crossing the bead or cord.

  The container may be at least partly made of thermoplastic material. Examples of thermoplastic materials include polypropylene or polyethylene. Alternatively, the container is made of non-thermoplastic material, in particular glass or metal (or alloy).

  The container may have rigid walls or deformable walls, in particular in the form of a tube or a tube flask.

  The container may include means for causing or facilitating the dispensing of the composition. By way of example, the container may have deformable walls so as to cause the composition to exit in response to an overpressure inside the container, which overpressure is caused by elastic (or non-elastic) crushing of the walls of the container. . The container may consist of a housing with a bottom defining at least one housing containing the composition, and a cover, in particular articulated on the bottom, and adapted to cover at least part of said bottom. Such a housing is described for example in the application WO 03/018423 or in the patent FR 2 791 042.

  The container may be equipped with a wiper arranged in the vicinity of the opening of the container. Such a wiper makes it possible to wipe the applicator and possibly the rod which it can be secured. Such a wiper is described, for example, in patent FR 2 792 618.

  The contents of the aforementioned patents or patent applications are incorporated by reference in this application.

  The invention also relates to a cosmetic process for the care of oily skin, in particular with a view to mattifying the skin, comprising the topical application thereto of a composition comprising at least one hydroxylated diphenyl methane derivative of formula (I) or (II) as defined above.

  In particular, it is possible to use compositions as described according to the invention comprising (a) at least one hydroxylated diphenyl methane derivative of formula (I) or (II) as defined previously and (b) at least one ingredient and or active skin care, especially oily skin.

  According to a particular method of the invention, the composition is applied to areas of the face or forehead having a gloss of the skin. According to a particular method of the invention, the composition is applied to persons having a skin of phototype III to VI.

  The invention will now be illustrated by the following non-limiting examples. EXAMPLES

  The following compositions are prepared in a conventional manner for those skilled in the art. Example 1 Shaving Foam NAME INCI% Perfume 0.6 Triethanolamine 2.9 Butane 1.00 triclosan 0.1 Dimethicone stearate 1.0 Potassium hydroxide 0.4 PPG-2 hydroxyethyl cocamide 1.0 PEG-14M 0.5 Sodium laureth sulfate 1.0 Myristic acid 0.2 Glycerin 5.0 Palmitic acid 3.810 Stearic acid 4.6 Zinc PCA 0.25 Isobutane 2.38 propane 0.85 Hydroxyethylcellulose 0.28 Polysorbate 20 0.95 Phenylethylbenzenediol (Symwhite 377 sold by 0.5 Symrise) Eldew 2.00 water 70.69 Example 2: Treating cream INCI NAME% Poly Cl 0-30 alkyl acrylate 1.3 Magnesium sulfate 0.7 PEG-4 laurate 0.08 PEG-4 0.02 Preservative 0.8 Zinc PCA 0.25 Acrylates copolymer 0.4 Phenylethylbenzenediol (Symwhite 377 marketed by 1.0 Symrise) Acetylated glycol stearate 0.1 Isohexadecane 7.75 Cyclohexadecane 8.7 Tristearin 0.4 Glycerin 7.0 Rosa gallica extract 1.0 Isononyl isononanoate 7.75 Octyldodecanol 2.00 EDTA 0.04 Cetyl PEG / PPG-10/1 Dimethicone 3.8 Dioic acid 0.55 PEG-4 dilaurate 0.08 Polyglyceryl-4 isostearate 1.25 Octanoyl glycine (Lipacid C8G) 0.5 Polyamide fibers 3.00 water 51.58 Example 3: Treatment lotion INCI NAME% Tocopherol 0.05 Myrtrimonium bromide 0.03 Disodium EDTA 0.08 PEG-8 5.0 Glycerin 3.0 PEG-60 hydrogenated castor oil 0.5 Phenylethylbenzenediol (Symwhite 377 0.1 sold by Symrise ) Eldew SL 205: Isopropyl N-lauroylsarcosinate 1.4 Sepicontrol A5: capryloyl glycine & 2.00 sarcosine & cinnamomum zeylanicum preservatives 0.8 Perfum 0.08 water 84.96

Claims (17)

  1. Cosmetic use of at least one hydroxylated diphenylmethane derivative of formula (I) in which: R1 is chosen from a hydrogen atom, a methyl group, a linear or branched alkyl chain, saturated or unsaturated, having 2 to 4 carbon atoms, an -OH group, and a halogen, - R2 is chosen from a hydrogen atom, a methyl group, a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl chain having from 2 to 5 carbon atoms R 3 is chosen from a methyl group or a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl chain having from 2 to 5 carbon atoms; R 4 and R 5 are independently of one another chosen from a hydrogen atom, a methyl group, a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl chain having from 2 to 5 carbon atoms, an OH group or a halogen in a cosmetic composition comprising a physiologically acceptable medium, said derivative and / or said the composition being intended to reduce skin imperfections of oily skin.   2. Use according to claim 1, characterized in that the hydroxylated diphenylmethane derivative has the following formula (II):   3. Use according to one of claims 1 or 2, characterized in that the hydroxylated diphenylmethane derivative of formula (I) or (II) is present in the composition in an amount ranging from 0.0001 to 20% by weight. relative to the total weight of the R4 R5 composition, preferably from 0.001 to 5%, and even more preferably from 0.01 to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.   4. Use according to any one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that the composition further comprises at least one additional ingredient and / or active skin care selected from depigmenting agents, preservatives, antiperspirants, metal chelators, UV filters, hydrolysed proteins, vitamins, moisturizers, plant extracts, mattifying agents, abrasive fillers or exfoliating agents, desquamating agents, antimicrobial agents, soothing agents, anti-aging agents inflammatory agents, sebum-regulating agents, antioxidant agents, cicatrizing agents, astringent agents, and mixtures thereof.   5. Use according to any one of the preceding claims for the care and / or treatment of persons having a skin of III to VI.   6. A composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, (a) at least one hydroxylated diphenylmethane derivative of formula (I) or of formula (II) as defined in one of claims 1 or 2 and (b) less an additional skin care ingredient selected from a matting agent, an abrasive filler or exfoliating agent and mixtures thereof.   7. Composition according to Claim 6, characterized in that the matting agent is chosen from a rice starch or a maize starch, kaolinite, silicas, talc, an extract of pumpkin seeds, cellulose microbeads, vegetable fibers, synthetic fibers, microspheres of expanded acrylic copolymers, polyamide powders, silica powders, polytetrafluoroethylene powders, silicone resin powders, acrylic copolymer powders, wax powders, powders of polyethylene, elastomeric crosslinked organopolysiloxane powders coated with silicone resin, talc / titanium dioxide / alumina / silica composite powders, amorphous mixed silicate powders, acrylic polymer powders, silicate particles, particles mixed silicate, and mixtures thereof.   8. Composition according to claim 6, characterized in that it is a rinsed composition and that the abrasive filler or additional exfoliating agent is selected from beads or polyethylene powder, nylon powder, dela polyvinyl chloride powder, pumice stone, ground apricot kernels or nut shells, sawdust, glass beads, alumina, bamboo extract, strawberry achenes extract , peach kernel powder, apricot kernel powder, cranberry kernel powder, and mixtures thereof.   9. Composition according to any one of claims 7 or 8, characterized in that it further comprises at least one additional agent selected from depigmenting agents, preservatives, antiperspirants, metal chelators, UV filters, hydrolysed proteins, vitamins, moisturizing agents, plant extracts, desquamating agents, antimicrobial agents, soothing agents, anti-inflammatory agents, sebum-regulating agents, antioxidants, healing agents, astringent agents , and their mixtures.   10. A composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, (a) at least one hydroxylated diphenyl methane derivative of formula (I) or of formula (II) as defined in one of claims 1 or 2 and (b) minus an additional active ingredient of oily skin care chosen from: n-octanoyl-5-salicylic acid; urea; (N-2-hydroxyethylpiperazine-N-2-ethane) sulfonic acid (HEPES); Saphora japonica extract; honey ; N-acetyl glucosamine; sodium methyl glycine diacetate; caprylyl glycol, zinc pidolate, copper pidolate, octoglycerine or octoxyglycerine, 10-hydroxy-2-decanoic acid, rose extract, clove extract, dextran, mint extract a mixture of an extract of nymphea alba and sodium palmitoylproline, anise derivatives, an extract of Paeonia suffruticosa, azelaic acid, sea fennel; a mixture of capryloyl glycine, sarcosine and cinnamomum zeylanicum extract; a mixture of burnet extract, ginger and cinnamon; an extract of Laminaria saccharina; an extract of Spiraea ulmaria; sapogenins or plant extracts containing them; tamanu oil, sodium acexamate, honey extracts, horsetail extracts, helichryse extracts, scutellaria extracts, ilmaire extracts, close-up queen extracts, gentian extracts , burdock extracts, and mixtures thereof.   11. Composition according to any one of claims 7 to 10, characterized in that the hydroxylated diphenylmethane derivative of formula (I) or (II) is present in the composition in an amount ranging from 0.0001 to 20% by weight. weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.001 to 5%, and even more preferably from 0.01 to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.   12. Cosmetic assembly comprising: a) a container defining at least one compartment, said container being closed by a closure element; and b) a composition disposed within said compartment, the composition comprising at least one hydroxylated diphenylmethane derivative of formula (I) or (II) as defined in one of claims 1 or 2.   13. Cosmetic assembly according to claim 12, characterized in that the composition is as defined in one of claims 7 to 10.   14. A cosmetic process for the care of oily skin, in particular with a view to mattifying the skin, comprising the topical application thereto of a composition comprising at least one hydroxylated diphenylmethane derivative of formula (I) or II) as defined in one of claims 1 or 2.   15. Cosmetic process according to the preceding claim, characterized in that a composition as defined in one of claims 7 to 10 is applied to the skin.   16. Cosmetic process according to one of claims 14 or 15, characterized in that the composition is applied to the areas of the face or forehead having a gloss of the skin.   17. Cosmetic process according to any one of claims 14 to 16, characterized in that it is intended for persons having a skin of phototype III to VI.