FR2900046A1 - Composition useful e.g. to reduce browning and/or yellowing of skin associated with skin aging, comprises diphenyl-methane hydroxy analog derivative and additional anti-aging agents e.g. fillers, optical brighteners and fluorescent agents - Google Patents

Abstract

Cosmetic composition comprises a diphenyl-methane hydroxy analog derivative (I) and an additional anti-aging agent e.g. fillers, optical brighteners, fluorescent agents, agents stimulating the synthesis of glycosaminoglycans, agents that inhibit elastin degradation, agents stimulating the synthesis of fibronectin, agents stimulating the synthesis of epidermal macromolecules, in a medium. Cosmetic composition comprises a diphenyl-methane hydroxy analog derivative of formula (I) and an additional anti-aging agent such as fillers, optical brighteners, fluorescent agents, agents stimulating the synthesis of glycosaminoglycans, agents that inhibit elastin degradation, agents stimulating the synthesis of fibronectin, agents stimulating the synthesis of epidermal macromolecules, agents stimulating the proliferation and/or differentiation of keratinocytes, agents promoting the maturation of the corneal envelope, nitric oxide synthase inhibitors, peripheral benzodiazepine receptor antagonists, agents increasing the activity of the sebaceous gland, antiglycation agents, dermorelaxing agents or dermo-decontracting agents, agents favoring cutaneous microcirculation and/or agents stimulating the metabolic rate of cells, in a medium. R1 : H, methyl, 2-4C alkyl, -OH or halo; R2 : H, methyl or 2-5C alkyl; R3 : methyl or 2-5C alkyl; and R4, R5 : H, methyl, 2-5C alkyl, -OH or halo. Independent claims are included for: (1) a cosmetic or dermatological composition comprising a container being closed by a stopper, enclosing a compartment, and a composition disposed inside that compartment; and (2) a cosmetic skin care process, comprising topical application of the composition on the skin. [Image].

Description

The present invention relates in particular to a cosmetic composition

  comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, (a) at least one hydroxylated diphenyl methane derivative of formula (I) and (b) at least one additional anti-aging agent chosen from: fillers, optical brighteners, fluorescence agents agents stimulating the synthesis of glycosaminoglycans, agents inhibiting the degradation of elastin, agents stimulating the synthesis of fibronectin, agents stimulating the synthesis of epidermal macromolecules, agents stimulating proliferation and / or differentiation of keratinocytes, agents that promote the maturation of the horny envelope, inhibitors of NO synthases, antagonists of the peripheral benzodiazepine receptors, agents increasing the activity of the sebaceous gland, anti-glycation agents, dermorelaxing or dermodecontracting agents, promoting agents cutaneous microcirculation, agents that stimulate the energy metabolism of cells, and their angels.

  It also relates to a cosmetic skin care method comprising the topical application to the skin of such a composition.

  In particular, the compositions according to the invention are advantageous for the care of visible and / or tactile irregularities of the skin, in particular related to cutaneous aging.

  By `visible and / or tactile irregularities of the skin 'is meant, in particular, browning and / or yellowing of the skin, pigmentary spots or senescence spots, scars of acne or chickenpox, wrinkles and fine lines.

  Women, even men, tend to want to look young for as long as possible and therefore seek to fade the marks of aging skin, which result in particular in a loss of firmness and / or elasticity and / or tonicity and / or suppleness of the skin and by the formation of wrinkles and fine lines. In this regard, advertising and fashion mention products intended to keep as long as possible a glowing skin without wrinkles, marks of a young skin, especially as the physical aspect acts on the psyche and / or on morale.

  The effect of UV on the skin is also reflected over time by the appearance of senescence tasks or 'age tasks'. We speak of actinic aging or photoaging as opposed to chronic or physiological aging.

  The signs of skin aging can also result in the appearance of browning of the skin and / or yellowing of the skin.

  These signs of aging are particularly present in people with mature skin and people with very mature skin.

  By "mature skin" according to the invention is meant in particular persons having at least 40 years. By "very mature skin" according to the invention is meant in particular persons having at least 50 years, in particular at least 60 years, or even 65 years.

  The visible and / or tactile irregularities of the skin are all the more visible on dark skin, that is to say according to the invention, persons having a skin of phototype III to VI, defined according to the Fitzpatrick classification which relies on the reactivity of the skin to the effects of solar radiation: 1 always burns, never tans 11 always burns, little bronze III burns moderately, bronze gradually IV burns weakly, bronze very easily V rarely burns, intensely bronze VI never burns, strongly pigmented 25

  There is therefore still a need for cosmetic compositions to combat visible and / or tactile irregularities of the skin, in particular related to cutaneous aging, and in particular to photoinduced aging. It is in this context that the Applicant proposes compositions combining hydroxylated diphenylmethane derivatives of formula (I) or (II) as defined below with anti-aging agents with a complementary effect on the epidermis and / or dermis, in particular agents for attenuating and / or smoothing wrinkles. Diphenyl methane derivatives are known from WO2004 / 105736 for their depigmenting activity. But it is not suggested to use these compounds specifically in anti-aging cosmetic compositions in combination with additional ingredients and / or active agents selected for their effect on the epidermis and / or the dermis, in particular their effect on the skin. wrinkles and / or fine lines.

  The subject of the invention is in particular a cosmetic composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, (a) at least one hydroxylated diphenyl methane derivative of formula (I) in which: R 1 is chosen from a hydrogen atom, a group methyl, a linear or branched alkyl chain, saturated or unsaturated, having from 2 to 4 carbon atoms, a group -OH, and a halogen, - R2 is chosen from a hydrogen atom, a methyl group, an alkyl chain, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, having 2 to 5 carbon atoms, - R3 is selected from a methyl group or a linear or branched alkyl chain, saturated or unsaturated, having 2 to 5 carbon atoms, - R4 and R5 are independently of one another chosen from a hydrogen atom, a methyl group, a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl chain having from 2 to 5 carbon atoms, a ûOH group or a halogen and (b) at the oins an additional anti-aging agent chosen from: fillers, optical brighteners, fluorescence agents, agents stimulating the synthesis of glycosaminoglycans, agents inhibiting the degradation of elastin, agents stimulating the synthesis of fibronectin, agents stimulating the synthesis of epidermal macromolecules, agents stimulating the proliferation and / or differentiation of keratinocytes, agents promoting the maturation of the horny envelope, inhibitors of NO synthases, peripheral benzodiazepine receptor antagonists, agents increasing the activity of the sebaceous gland, the anti-glycation agents, the dermorelaxing or dermodecontracting agents, the agents promoting microcirculation of the skin, the agents stimulating the energetic metabolism of the cells, and their mixtures.

  Diphenyl-methane derivatives hydroxylated

  The hydroxylated diphenylmethane derivatives which can be used in the compositions of the invention are described in application WO2004 / 105736. These compounds have the following formula (I), in which: R 1 is chosen from a hydrogen atom, a methyl group, a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl chain having from 2 to 4 carbon atoms, OOH group, and a halogen, - R2 is chosen from a hydrogen atom, a methyl group, a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl chain having from 2 to 5 carbon atoms, - R3 is chosen from a methyl group or a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl chain having 2 to 5 carbon atoms - R 4 and R 5 are independently of one another selected from a hydrogen atom, a methyl group, a linear alkyl chain or branched, saturated or unsaturated, having from 2 to 5 carbon atoms, an OH group or a halogen. The groups OH, R1, R4 and R5 may be in the ortho, meta or para position with respect to the bond formed with the carbon connecting the two aromatic rings to each other.

  Also included in the compounds of the invention having the substituted phenyl groups and for which R2 and R3 are distinct, are the enantiomeric S-configuration forms, the R-configuration enantiomers or their racemate mixture. According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, invention, a compound of formula (I) is used wherein: - R1, R2, R4 and R5 denote a hydrogen atom; - R3 is a methyl group; the OHOH groups are in the ortho and para position with respect to the bond formed with the carbon bonding between them between the two aromatic rings.

  This compound corresponds to the following formula (II) named 4- (1-phenylethyl) -1,3-benzenediol or 4- (1-phenylethyl) -1,3-dihydroxybenzene or otherwise named phenyethyl resorcinol or phenylethylbenzenediol or styrylresorcinol. This compound has a CAS number 85-27-8.

  Such a compound is marketed under the name SYMWHITE 377 or BIO 377 15 by SYMRISE.

  The invention therefore advantageously relates to a composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, (a) at least one hydroxylated diphenyl methane derivative of formula (II) and (b) at least one additional anti-aging agent chosen from: fillers , optical brighteners, fluorescers, glycosaminoglycan synthesis stimulating agents, elastin degradation inhibiting agents, fibronectin synthesis stimulating agents, epidermal macromolecule synthesis stimulating agents, stimulating agents proliferation and / or differentiation of keratinocytes, agents promoting the maturation of the horny envelope, inhibitors of NO-synthases, peripheral benzodiazepine receptor antagonists, agents increasing the activity of the sebaceous gland, anti-inflammatory agents, - 30 glycation, dermorelaxing or dermodecontracting agents, agents promoting cutaneous microcirculation, age stimulating the energetic metabolism of cells, and their mixtures.

  Among the preferred anti-aging additional agents, mention may be made of fillers, fillers, optical brighteners, fluorescence agents, tensors, agents stimulating the synthesis of glycosaminoglycans, agents stimulating the proliferation and / or differentiation of keratinocytes, anti-glycation agents and mixtures thereof.

  The amount of diphenylmethane compound according to one of the formula (I) or formula (II) present in the composition according to the invention will especially be from 0.0001 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, 0.001 to 15%, 0.001 to 10%, 0.001 to 8%, preferably 0.001 to 5%, 0.01 to 5%, 0.01 to 4%, 0.01 to 3%. , from 0.01 to 2% and even more preferably from 0.01 to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

  As examples of anti-aging agents that can be used in the compositions of the invention in combination with the hydroxylated diphenyl methane derivatives of formula (I) or (II) previously described, for each class defined above, mention may be made of following agents: Additional anti-aging agents

  1. Camouflage agents, in particular fillers By camouflage agents, are meant fillers, optical brighteners, fluorescence agents and their mixtures.

  By charge is meant any material capable of modifying the irregularities of the cutaneous microrelief, in particular wrinkles and fine lines, by its intrinsic physical properties and of masking it. There is also talk of bloating or soft focus charges.

  As a filler, it is possible to give as an example: porous silica microparticles, for example the Myochi Silica Beads SB 150 and SB 700 of average size of 5 μm, and the Asahi Glass SUNSPHERES H series, such as the H33. , H51 of size respectively 3.5 and 5pm. Silicon hollow hemispherical particles such as the NLK series including the NLK 500, NLK 506 and NLK 510 and NLK 523 from Takemoto Oil and Fat. Silicone resin powders such as for example SILICON Resin Tospearl 145 DEG size silicone average of 4.5pm. powders of acrylic copolymers, in particular of methyl poly (meth) acrylate, for example PMMA Jurimer MBI particles of Nihon Junyoki with a mean size of 8 μm, the hollow spheres of PMMA sold under the name COVABEAD LH 85 by the company Wackherr and the expanded vinylidene / acrylonitrile / methylene methacrylate microspheres sold under the name Expancel o The wax powders such as paraffin wax microase 114S particles of medium-sized Micropowders of 7pm o The polyethylene powders in particular comprising at least one ethylene / acrylic acid copolymer as for example the FLOBEADS EA 209 E of Sumimoto of average size of 10pm. the crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxane powders coated with silicone resin, in particular silsesquioxane under the name KSP 100, KSP 101, KSP 102, KSP 103, KSP 104 and KSP 105 by the company Shin Etsu; talc / dioxide dioxide composite powders; titanium / alumina / silica such as Cverleaf AR 80 from Catalyst & Chemical. Mention may also be made of: talc, mica, kaolin, lauryl glycine, starch powders crosslinked with octyanyl succinate anhydride, boron nitride, polytetrafluoroethylene powders, precipitated calcium carbonate, carbonate magnesium hydrocarbonate, barium sulfate, hydroxyapatite, calcium silicate, cerium dioxide and glass or ceramic microcapsules. o fibers, such as silk, cotton, wool, flax, cellulose fibers extracted from wood, vegetables or algae, polyamide (nylon), modified cellulose, poly-p-phenylene terephtamide , acrylic, polyolefin, glass, silica, aramid, carbon, Teflon, insoluble collagen, polyesters, polyvinyl chloride or vinylidene, polyvinyl alcohol, polyacrylonitrile, chitosan, polyurethane, polyethylene phthalate, fibers formed from a mixture of polymers, synthetic resorbable fibers, and mixtures thereof described in the patent application L'OREAL EP 1 151 742.

  The fillers are chosen in particular from porous silica microparticles, hollow hemispherical silicone particles, silicone resin powders, acrylic copolymer powders, polyethylene powders, crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxane powders coated with silicone resin, talc / titanium dioxide / alumina / silica composite powders, precipitated calcium carbonate, magnesium hydrocarbonate carbonate, barium sulfate, hydroxyapatite, calcium silicate, cerium dioxide and microcapsules of glass or ceramics, silk fibers, cotton, and their blends.

  One of the preferred fillers according to the invention is hydroxyapatite.

  The concentration of these fillers is generally between 0.1 and 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 3.5 to 40% by weight, and still more preferably from 5 to 15% by weight, by weight. relative to the total weight of the composition. By soft-focus charge, we mean a charge which in addition gives transparency to the complexion and a fuzzy effect. Preferably, the soft-focus charges have an average particle size of less than or equal to 15 microns. These particles can be of any shape and in particular be spherical or nonspherical. More preferably, these fillers are nonspherical. The soft-focus fillers may be chosen from silica and silicate powders, in particular alumina powders, polymethyl methacrylate (PMMA) powders, talc, silica / TiO2 or silica / zinc oxide composites, polyethylene powders starch powders, polyamide powders, styrene / acrylic copolymer powders, silicone elastomers, and mixtures thereof. In particular, mention may be made of talc with a mean size of less than or equal to 3 microns, for example talc with a mean size of 1.8 microns and in particular that sold under the trade name Talc P3 by the company Nippon Talc, nylon 12 powder, in particular that sold under the name Orgasol 2002 Extra D Nat Cos by the company Atochem, silica particles treated on the surface with a mineral wax 1 to 2% (INCI name: hydrated silica (and) paraffin) such as those marketed by Degussa, amorphous silica microspheres, such as those sold under the name Sunsphere for example of reference H-53 by the company Asahi Glass, and silica micro-beads such as those sold under the name SB -700 or SB-150 by the company Miyoshi, this list is not exhaustive. The fuzziness charge may be present in the cosmetic composition with a blurring effect in a content ranging from 0.1 to 20% by weight and especially ranging from 1% to 12% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, in particular between 5 and 10%, for example of the order of 8%.

  Fluorescent agent is a substance which, under the effect of ultraviolet rays and / or visible light, re-emits in the visible the portion of light that it has absorbed in the same color as that which it naturally reflects . The naturally reflected color is thus enhanced by the re-emitted color and appears extremely bright.

  Examples that may be mentioned include polyamide and / or formaldehyde / benzoguanamine and / or melamine / formaldehyde / sulfonamide colored resins, among colored aminotriazine / formaldehyde / sulfonamide co-condensates and / or metallized polyester flakes and / or their mixtures. These fluorescent pigments may also be in the form of aqueous dispersions of fluorescent pigments.

  Mention may also be made of the aminotriazine / formaldehyde / fluorescent colored sulphonamide co-condensate in medium-sized pink of the 3-4 micron particles sold under the trade name Fiesta Astral Pink FEX-1 and the co-condensate aminotriazine / formaldehyde / fluorescent sulphonamide colored in medium-sized blue of the particles 3-4.5 microns sold under the trade name Fiesta Comet Blue FTX-60 by the company Swada or the benzoguanamine / formaldehyde resin coated with formaldehyde / urea resin and colored yellow sold under the trade name FB -205 Yellow and the benzoguanamine / formaldehyde resin coated with formaldehyde / urea resin and colored red sold under the trade name FB-400 Orange Red by UK company SEUNG CHEMICAL, the orange colored polyamide resin sold under the trade name Flare 911 Orange 4 by Sterling Industrial Colors. The fluorescent substances are preferably present in the composition, at a content ranging from 0.1 to 20%, preferably from 0.1 to 15%, more preferably from 0.5 to 3% by weight, relative to the weight total of the composition.

  When the organic fluorescent substances are white, they are also called optical brighteners. The optical brightener has the effect of intensifying the brightness and brightening the hues of the cosmetic compositions comprising them to the application on the skin.

  Among the optical brighteners, mention may be made especially of stilbene derivatives, in particular polystyrylstilbenes and triazinstilbenes, coumarin derivatives, in particular hydroxycoumarines and aminocoumarines, oxazole, benzoxazole, imidazole, triazole and pyrazoline derivatives, and derivatives thereof. pyrene and porphyrin derivatives and / or mixtures thereof.

  Such compounds are for example available under the trade names Tinopal SOP and Uvitex OB from CIBA GEIGY. The optical brighteners preferentially used are sodium 4,4'-bis [(4,6-dianilino-1,3,5-triazin-2-yl) amino] stilbene-2,2'disulphonate, 2,5 thiophene di-yl bis (5-tert-butyl-1,3-benzoxazole), di-4,4-di-styryl-diphenyl di-sodium sulfonate and / or mixtures thereof.

  2. Agents stimulating the synthesis of dermal and / or epidermal macromolecules and / or preventing their degradation: Among the active agents stimulating the macromolecules of the dermis or preventing their degradation, mention may be made of those which act:

  or on the synthesis of collagen, such as extracts of Centella asiatica. asiaticosides and derivatives; ascorbic acid or vitamin C and its derivatives; synthetic peptides such as iamin, the biopeptide CL or palmitoyloligopeptide marketed by SEDERMA; peptides extracted from plants, such as the soy hydrolyzate marketed by the company Coletica under the trade name Phytokine; and plant hormones such as auxins and lignans; or on inhibiting the degradation of collagen, in particular agents acting on the inhibition of metalloproteinases (MMP) such as, more particularly, MMPs 1, 2, 3, 9. There may be mentioned: retinoids and derivatives, extracts of medicago sativa such as Vitanol of Silab, an extract of aphanizomenon flos-aquae (cyanophyceae) sold under the name Lanablue by Atrium Biotechnologies, oligopeptides and lipopeptides, lipoamino acids, the malt extract marketed by the company Coletica under the trade name Collalift; extracts of blueberry or rosemary; lycopene; isoflavones, their derivatives or plant extracts containing them, in particular extracts of soya (marketed for example by the company Ichimaru Pharcos under the trade name Flavosterone SB), red clover, flax, kakkon or sage; the dipalmitol HYDROXYPROLINE marketed by Seppic under the name SEPILIFT DPHP: Baccharis genistelloide or Saccharin marketed by SILAB, a moringa extract such as the Arganyl LS 9781 from Cognis.

  or on the synthesis of molecules belonging to the family of elastins (elastin and fibrillin), such as: retinol and derivatives; the extract of Saccharomyces Cerivisiae sold by the company LSN under the trade name Cytovitin; and the extract of Macrocystis pyrifera alga marketed by SECMA under the trade name Kelpadelie. or on the inhibition of the degradation of elastin, such as the peptide extract of seeds of Pisum sativum sold by the company LSN under the trade name Parelastyl; heparinoids; and the N-acylaminoamide compounds described in WO 01/94381 such as {2- [acetyl- (3-trifluoromethyl-phenyl) -amino] -3-methyl-butyrylamino} -acetic acid, otherwise known as N- [N] acetyl, N '- (3-trifluoromethyl) phenyl valyl] glycine or N-acetyl-N- [3- (trifluoromethyl) phenyl] valyl-glycine or acetyl trifluoromethyl phenyl valylglycine, or an ester thereof with an alcohol in C1-C6. ; an extract of rice peptides such as Pentapharm's Colhibin, or an extract of Phyllanthus emblica such as Rona Emblica. or on the synthesis of glycosaminoglycans, such as the product of fermentation of milk with Lactobacillus vulgaris, sold by BROOKS under the trade name Biomin yogourth; the extract of the brown alga Padina pavonica marketed by the company Alban Müller under the trade name HSP3; the Saccharomyces cerevisiae extract available in particular from the company SILAB under the trade name Firmalift or from the company LSN under the trade name Cytovitin. ; an extract of Laminaria ochroleuca such as Laminaïne from Secma; Lucas Meyer's Mamaku essence, an extract of watercress (Odraline de Silab); or - on the synthesis of fibronectin, such as the Salina zooplankton extract marketed by the company SEPORGA under the trade name GP4G; yeast extract available in particular from ALBAN MÜLLER under the trademark Drieline; and the palmitoyl pentapeptide marketed by SEDERMA under the trade name Matrixil.

  Among the active agents stimulating epidermal macromolecules, such as fillagrin and keratins, mention may be made in particular of the lupine extract marketed by SILAB under the trade name Structurine; the extract of beech buds Fagus sylvatica marketed by Gattefosse under the trade name Gatuline RC; and Salina zooplankton extract marketed by the company SEPORGA under the trade name GP4G; Copper tripeptide from PROCYTE; ; a peptide extract of Voandzeia substerranea such as that marketed by Laboratoires Sérobiologiques under the trademark Filladyn LS 9397.

  Preferably, an additional agent stimulating the synthesis of dermal and / or epidermal macromolecules and / or preventing their degradation chosen from agents stimulating the synthesis of glycosaminoglycans, the agents inhibiting the degradation of elastin, the agents stimulating the synthesis of fibronectin, agents stimulating the synthesis of epidermal macromolecules, and mixtures thereof.

  Even more preferentially, use will be made of a glycosaminoglycan synthesis stimulating agent chosen from a brown algae extract Padina pavonica, an extract of Saccharomyces cerevisiae, an extract of Laminaria ochroleuca, the essence of Mamaku, a cress extract and their mixtures.

  As preferred additional agents stimulating the synthesis of dermal and / or epidermal macromolecules and / or preventing their degradation, mention may be made of: the biopeptide CL or palmitoyloligopeptide, an extract of aphanizomenon flos-aquae (cyanophycea), a malt extract, an extract of moringa, an extract of Saccharomyces cerevisiae, a peptide extract of seeds of Pisum sativum, {2- [acetyl- (3-trifluoromethyl-phenyl) -amino] -3-methyl-butyrylamino} acetic acid), an extract of brown alga Padina pavonica, Salina zooplankton extract, yeast extract, lupine extract, beech bud extract Fagus sylvatica, peptide extract of Voandzeia substerranea, and mixtures thereof.

  3. Agents stimulating proliferation of fibroblasts or keratinocytes and / or differentiation of keratinocytes

  The agents stimulating proliferation of fibroblasts that can be used in the composition according to the invention may for example be chosen from plant proteins or polypeptides, extracted especially from soybeans (for example a soybean extract marketed by LSN under the name Eleseryl SH-VEG). 8 or marketed by SILAB under the trade name Raffermine); and plant hormones such as giberrellins and cytokinins.

  Preferably, an agent promoting proliferation and / or differentiation of keratinocytes will be used.

  Agents stimulating the proliferation of keratinocytes, which can be used in the composition according to the invention, include in particular adenosine; phloroglucinol; nut cake extracts sold by the company GATTEFOSSE; and extracts of Solanum tuberosum marketed by SEDERMA; an extract of Larrea divaricata such as Capislow of Sederma, mixtures of papaya, olive and lemon leaves such as Vincient Xyline, leaf extract of hydrangea macrophylla such as Amacha liquid E of Ichimaru Pharcos, a yeast extract such as Stimoderm from CLR.

  Among the agents stimulating the differentiation of keratinocytes include, for example, minerals such as calcium; a peptide extract of lupine such as that marketed by SILAB under the trademark Structurine; sodium beta-sitosteryl sulphate, such as that sold by Seporga under the trade name Phytocohésine; and a water-soluble corn extract such as that marketed by SOLABIA under the trade name Phytovityl; a peptide extract of Voandzeiasubsterranea such as that marketed by Laboratoires Sérobiologiques under the trademark Filladyn LS 9397; and lignans such as secoisolariciresinol, retinol and its esters including retinyl palmitate.

  As agents stimulating the proliferation and / or differentiation of keratinocytes, there may be mentioned also estrogens such as estradiol and homologues; cytokines.

  As additional agents stimulating the proliferation of fibroblasts or keratinocytes and / or the differentiation of the preferred keratinocytes, mention will be made of a lupine extract, an extract of Larrea divaricata, a yeast extract and mixtures thereof.

  4. Agents promoting skin barrier function

  As an agent having a restructuring effect of the skin barrier, there may be mentioned an extract of Thermus thermophilus such as Sederma vénucéane, an extract of wild yam rhizome (dioscorea villosa) such as Actigen Y of Active Organics, plankton extracts such as Secma's omega plankton, yeast extracts such as Coletica's Relipidium, a chestnut extract such as Silab's Recoverin, a cedar bud extract such as Gattefossé's Gatuline Zen, Phytosphingosine SLC from Degussa, Aquaxyl of Seppic, Lipidessence of Coletica.

  There may also be mentioned ceramides and derivatives, compounds based on sphingoids, glycosphingolipids, phospholipids, cholesterol and its derivatives, phytosterols, essential fatty acids, diacylglycerol, 4-chromanone and chromon derivatives, the vaseline, lanolin, shea butter, cocoa butter, lanolin ...

  Preferred additional agents that promote the cutaneous barrier function include an extract of Thermus thermophilus, an extract of wild yam rhizome (dioscorea villosa), a yeast extract, a chestnut extract, a cedar bud extract and mixtures thereof. . 5. Anti-glycation agents

  As anti-glycation agents, mention may in particular be made of ergothioneine, dihydroxystilbenes and their derivatives, hydroxy-imides and derivatives such as those cited in application WO2005 / 054192, the Silab Antiglyskin, the Amadorine of Solabia, the extracts of FIS company wine, Labochim's Nutralip, LSN's Aglycal LS 8777, black tea extract, Sederma's Kombuchka, lipoic or thioctic acid, or bilberry extracts (Vaccinium myrtillus).

  Preferred anti-glycation agents include bilberry extracts (Vaccinium myrtillus).

  6. Agents for the maturation of the horny envelope It will be possible to use in the compositions of the invention agents which intervene on the maturation of the horny envelope which deteriorates with age and induces a decrease in the activity of the transglutaminase. There may be mentioned, for example, urea and its derivatives and in particular Hydrovance from National Starch and the other active agents mentioned in L'OREAL application FR2877220 (unpublished). 7. NO-synthase inhibitors

  It is also possible to associate agents having a NO synthase inhibiting action such as OPCs (procyanidolic oligomers), grape leucocyanidies (Leucoselect de Indena, grape pomace extract from the Hansen company, or Euromed), extracts of Olea europea such as those from Vinyals, extracts from gingko biloba (Eurol BT from biologiax technologia), grape seed extract, hawthorn extracts such as those from Berkem, pine bark from Euromed . Peripheral Benzodiazepine Receptor Antagonists (PBR) For example, 1- (2-chlorophenyl) -N- (1-methyl-propyl) -3-isoquinoline carboxamide; the compounds described in applications W003 / 030937, W003 / 068753, pyridazino [4,5-b] indole-1-acetamide derivatives of general formula (VII) as described in document W000 / 44384. 9. Agents Increasing the Activity of the Sebaceous Gland Mention may be made, for example, of methyl dehydrojasmonate, hecogenin, hedione, o-linoleyl-6D-glucose and mixtures thereof. 10. Dermorelaxant or dermodecontracting agents

  Examples that may be mentioned include manganese gluconate and other salts, alverine citrate and its salts, glycine, an Iris pallida extract, a hexapeptide (Argériline R from Lipotec) or sapogenins such as Wild yam and amines carbonyl described in the application EP1484052. As examples of sapogenins, mention may be made of those described in patent application W002 / 47650, in particular Wild yam, diosgenin extracted in particular from Dioscorea opposita or any extract which naturally closes or after treatment one or more sapogenins (wild yam rhizome, agave leaf which contains hecogenin and tigogenin, lilyaceous extract and more particularly Yacca or smilax containing the smilagein and sarsapogenin, or the sarsaparilla root) yes' Actigen Y of the company Actives Organics. DMAE (dimethyl MEA), extracts of sea fennel, Montpellier rockrose, helicryse, anise, Para cress, an extract of Acmella Oleracea such as Gatuline expression of Gattefossé can also be mentioned.

  Preferred additional dermorelaxing agents are manganese gluconate, glycine and alverine. 11. Agents promoting cutaneous microcirculation

  Agents acting on cutaneous microcirculation can be combined in the compositions of the invention in order to prevent dulling of the complexion, for example Sederma's Kombuchka, Pycnogenol, Manganese Gluconate (Givobio GMn Seppic), Visnadine of Indena, a lupine extract (Eclaline de Silab), Epaline 100 of Carilene Laboratories, an extract of bigarade flower (Remodulin of ilab), vitamin P and its derivatives such as Permethol of Sochibios and other extracts (of ruscus, brown turkey, ivy, ginseng, sweetclover ...) and also caffeine, nicotinate and derivatives, lysine and derivatives (such as Asparlyne of Solabia) ... As preferred additional agents promoting cutaneous microcirculation include Kombuchka, manganese gluconate and vitamin P and its derivatives.

  12. Agents stimulating energy metabolism of cells

  It is also possible to associate active agents stimulating the energetic metabolism which is slowed down during aging, among which mention may be made of biotin, an extract of Saccharomyces cerevisaie such as Sederma's Phosphovital, Physiogenyl of Solabia, a mixture of zinc gluconate, copper and magnesium such as Sepitonic M3 from Seppic.

  As another additional anti-aging agent, mention may be made of DHEA and its derivatives, adenosine and its derivatives, in particular disodium adenosine monophosphate, boswellic acid, rosemary extracts and carotenoids (B carotene, zeaxanthin, lutein, cysteic acid, n-octanoyl 5-salicylic acid, gentisic acid and its derivatives, lignans and its glycosyl derivatives, flavonoids and flavosterones, copper derivatives, jasmonic acid, resveratrol and its derivatives retinol and its derivatives.

  The additional active ingredient (s) and / or ingredient (s) used in the composition according to the invention may represent from 0.0001 to 20%, preferably from 0.01 to 10% and better still from 0.01 to 1% by weight relative to to the total weight of the composition. In addition, to obtain an immediate effect of smoothing the skin, add tensors.

  By tensioning agent that can be used in the compositions of the invention is meant compounds that can have a tensing effect, that is to say, that can tend the skin.

  The tensor effect can be characterized by an in vitro retraction test. This test consists of quantifying in vitro the tensor strength of a material deposited on an elastomer substrate having a modulus of the order of 20 MPa and a thickness of 100 μm. The solution containing the tensioning agent at 7% by weight is therefore deposited (30p1) on a rectangular test piece (10x40mm) of elastomer. After 3-4h of drying at 22 3 C and 40 10% relative humidity RH, the tension exerted by this deposit on the substrate and consequently the tensor potential is directly related to the decrease in the width at the center of the test specimen. . The tensor effect (ET) can then be quantified as follows: 'ET' = (Lo û L3h / Lo) x100 in% with Lo = initial width 10mm and L3h = width after 3h of drying In a very general way we mean by tensioning agent any compound producing at a mass concentration of 7% in water, or any physiologically acceptable medium, a shrinkage of more than 15% in the test described above. The tensioning agent may be chosen from: a) vegetable or animal proteins and their hydrolysates; (b) polysaccharides of vegetable origin; (c) mixed silicates; d) colloidal particles of inorganic fillers; E) synthetic polymers; and mixtures thereof. In particular, mention may be made of: (1) synthetic polymers, such as polyurethane latices or acrylic-silicone latexes, in particular those described in patent application EP-1038519, such as a propylthio grafted polydimethyl siloxane (polyacrylate); methyl), propylthio (polymethylmethacrylate) and propylthio (methacrylic acid), or a polydimethyl siloxane grafted propylthio (isobutyl polymethacrylate) and propylthio (methacrylic acid). Such grafted silicone polymers are sold in particular by the company 3M under the trade names VS 80, VS 70 or LO21, (2) polymers of natural origin, in particular (a) polyholosides, for example (i) in the form of starch derived in particular from rice, maize, potato, cassava, peas, wheat, oats, etc ... or (ii) in the form of carrageenans, alginates, agars, gellans, cellulosic polymers and pectins, advantageously in aqueous dispersion of gel microparticles, and (b) latexes consisting of shellac resin, sandaraque gum, dammars, elemis, copals, cellulose derivatives, and mixtures thereof, (3) proteins and hydrolysates of vegetable proteins, in particular maize, rye, wheat, buckwheat, sesame, peel, pea, bean, lentil, soybean and lupine, (3) mixed silicates , especially phyllosilicates and in particular Laponites, (4) microparticles waxes, chosen for example from Carnauba, Candelila or Alfa waxes, (5) colloidal particles of inorganic filler having a number average diameter of between 0.1 and 100 nm, preferably between 3 and 30 μm. nm, and chosen for example from: silica, silica-alumina composites, cerium oxide, zirconium oxide, alumina, calcium carbonate, barium sulfate, calcium sulfate, zinc oxide and titanium dioxide.

  The compositions according to the invention may be cosmetic care compositions intended for all types of skin and in particular to persons with mature or even very mature skin.

  By `person with mature skin 'according to the invention is meant in particular persons having at least 40 years. By `person with a very mature skin 'according to the invention is meant in particular persons having at least 50 years, in particular at least 60 years, or even 65 years.

  These compositions are intended for topical application on the face and / or the body.

  The compositions according to the invention may be in any of the galenical forms conventionally used for topical application and especially in the form of aqueous, hydroalcoholic, oil-in-water (O / W) or water-in-oil ( E / H) or multiple (triple: W / H / E or H / E / H), aqueous gels, or dispersions of a fatty phase in an aqueous phase using spherules, these spherules being polymeric nanoparticles such as nanospheres and nanocapsules, or lipid vesicles of ionic and / or nonionic type (liposomes, niosomes, oleosomes), nanoemulsions, or thin films. These compositions are prepared according to the usual methods.

  In addition, the compositions used according to the invention may be more or less fluid and have the appearance of a white or colored cream, an ointment, a milk, a lotion, a serum, a paste, a foam. They may optionally be applied to the skin in the form of an aerosol. They may also be in solid form, for example in the form of a stick.

  When the composition used according to the invention comprises an oily phase, it preferably contains at least one oil. It may also contain other fatty substances.

  As oils that can be used in the composition of the invention, mention may be made, for example, of: hydrocarbon-based oils of animal origin, such as perhydrosqualene; hydrocarbon-based oils of vegetable origin, such as liquid triglycerides of fatty acids containing from 4 to 10 carbon atoms, for instance triglycerides of heptanoic or octanoic acids or, for example, sunflower, corn or soybean oils, squash, grape seed, sesame, hazelnut, apricot, macadamia, arara, sunflower, castor oil, avocado, triglycerides of caprylic / capric acids such as those sold by Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810, 812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel, jojoba oil, shea butter oil; esters and synthetic ethers, in particular of fatty acids, such as the oils of formulas R'COOR2 and R'OR2 in which R 'represents the residue of a fatty acid containing from 8 to 29 carbon atoms, and R2 represents a hydrocarbon chain, branched or unbranched, containing from 3 to 30 carbon atoms, for example Purcellin oil, isononyl isononanoate, isopropyl myristate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, octyl-2-dodecyl stearate, octyl-2-dodecyl erucate, isostearyl isostearate; hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate, octyl hydroxystearate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate, diisostearyl malate, triisocetyl citrate, heptanoates, octanoates, decanoates of fatty alcohols; polyol esters, such as propylene glycol dioctanoate, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate and diethylene glycol diisononanoate; and pentaerythritol esters such as pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate; linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, such as paraffin oils, volatile or not, and their derivatives, petroleum jelly, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as parleam oil; fatty alcohols having from 8 to 26 carbon atoms, such as cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and their mixture (cetylstearyl alcohol), octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, oleic alcohol or linoleic alcohol; partially fluorinated hydrocarbon oils and / or silicone oils such as those described in document JP-A-2-295912; silicone oils such as volatile or non-volatile polymethylsiloxanes (PDMS) with a linear or cyclic silicone chain, which are liquid or pasty at room temperature, in particular cyclopolydimethylsiloxanes (cyclomethicones) such as cyclohexasiloxane; polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl, alkoxy or phenyl groups, during or at the end of the silicone chain, groups having from 2 to 24 carbon atoms; phenyl silicones such as phenyltrimethicones, phenyldimethicones, phenyltrimethylsiloxydiphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl-dimethicones, diphenylmethyldiphenyltrisiloxanes, 2-phenylethyltrimethylsiloxysilicates, and polymethylphenylsiloxanes; - their mixtures.

  By hydrocarbon oil is meant in the list of oils mentioned above, any oil predominantly comprising carbon and hydrogen atoms, and optionally ester, ether, fluoro, carboxylic acid and / or alcohol groups.

  The other fatty substances that may be present in the oily phase are, for example, fatty acids containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, such as stearic acid, lauric acid, palmitic acid and oleic acid; waxes such as lanolin, beeswax, carnauba or candelilla wax, paraffin waxes, lignite waxes or microcrystalline waxes, ceresin or ozokerite, synthetic waxes such as polyethylene waxes, waxes Fischer-Tropsch; silicone resins such as trifluoromethyl-C1-4-alkyldimethicone and trifluoropropyldimethicone; and silicone elastomers such as the products sold under the names KSG by the company Shin-Etsu, under the names Trefil, BY29 or EPSX by the company Dow Corning or under the names Gransil by the company Grant Industries.

  These fatty substances may be chosen in a varied manner by those skilled in the art in order to prepare a composition having the desired properties, for example of consistency or texture.

  According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition according to the invention is a water-in-oil (W / O) or oil-in-water (O / W) emulsion. The proportion of the oily phase of the emulsion may range from 5 to 80% by weight, and preferably from 5 to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

  The emulsions generally contain at least one emulsifier chosen from amphoteric, anionic, cationic or nonionic emulsifiers, used alone or as a mixture, and optionally a co-emulsifier. The emulsifiers are suitably selected according to the emulsion to be obtained (W / O or O / W). The emulsifier and the co-emulsifier are generally present in the composition, in a proportion ranging from 0.3 to 30% by weight, and preferably from 0.5 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

  For W / O emulsions, examples of emulsifiers that may be mentioned include dimethicone copolyols such as the mixture of cyclomethicone and dimethicone copolyol, sold under the name DC 5225 C by Dow Corning, and alkyl dimethicone copolyols such as Laurylmethicone copolyol sold under the name "Dow Corning 5200 Formulation Aid" by the company Dow Corning and cetyl dimethicone copolyol sold under the name Abil EM 90R by the company Goldschmidt. It is also possible to use, as surfactant of W / O emulsions, a crosslinked solid elastomeric organopolysiloxane comprising at least one oxyalkylene group, such as those obtained according to the procedure of Examples 3, 4 and 8 of US Pat. No. 5,412,004 and examples US-A-5,811,487, especially the product of Example 3 (synthetic example) of US-A-5,412,004. and such as that sold under the reference KSG 21 by Shin Etsu.

  For O / W emulsions, mention may be made, for example, as emulsifiers, of nonionic emulsifiers such as oxyalkylenated (more particularly polyoxyethylenated) fatty acid esters of glycerol; oxyalkylenated fatty acid and sorbitan esters; oxyalkylenated fatty acid esters (oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated); oxyalkylenated fatty alcohol ethers (oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated); sugar esters such as sucrose stearate; and mixtures thereof such as the mixture of glyceryl stearate and PEG-40 stearate.

  In known manner, the cosmetic or dermatological composition of the invention may also contain adjuvants usual in the cosmetic or dermatological field, such as hydrophilic or lipophilic gelling agents, preservatives, solvents, perfumes, fillers, UV filters, bactericides, odor absorbers, dyestuffs, plant extracts, salts, antioxidants, basic agents, acids, nonionic, anionic, cationic surfactants. The amounts of these various adjuvants are those conventionally used in the field under consideration, and for example from 0.01 to 20% of the total weight of the composition. These adjuvants, depending on their nature, can be introduced into the fatty phase, into the aqueous phase and / or into the lipid vesicles. As fillers which can be used in the composition of the invention, mention may be made, for example, besides the pigments, the silica powder; talcum; polyamide particles and in particular those sold under the name ORGASOL by the company Atochem; polyethylene powders; micro-spheres based on acrylic copolymers, such as those made of ethylene glycol dimethacrylate / lauryl methacrylate copolymer sold by Dow Corning under the name Polytrap; expanded powders such as hollow microspheres and in particular the microspheres sold under the name Expancel by the company Kemanord Plast or under the name Micropearl F 80 ED by the company Matsumoto; silicone resin microbeads such as those sold under the name Tospearl by the company Toshiba Silicone; and their mixtures. These fillers may be present in amounts ranging from 0 to 20% by weight and preferably from 1 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

  As hydrophilic or lipophilic gelling agents, there may be mentioned in particular carbopol, luvigel, Hostacerin AMPS, Simulgel, Sepigel, xanthan, guar, cellulose gums, alginates and mixtures thereof. We can also mention hectorites.

  Antioxidants that may be mentioned include polyphenols, tannic acid, epoigallocathechins and natural extracts containing them, anthocyanins, rosemary extracts, olive leaf extracts, green tea, resveratrol and its derivatives. derivatives, Pycnogenol, ergothineine, N acetylcysteine, biotin, chelants, idebenone, plant extracts such as Pronalen Bioprotect TM from Provital, antiradicals such as vitamin E, coenzyme Q10, bioflavonoids , SOD, phytantriol, lignans, melatonin, pidolates, glutathione. According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition used according to the invention contains at least one UV filter (or sunscreen) which can be a chemical filter or a physical filter or a mixture of such filters.

  By way of illustration and in a nonlimiting manner, mention may be made of the following families (the names correspond to the CTFA nomenclature of the filters): anthranilates, in particular menthyl anthranilate; benzophenones, in particular benzophenone-1, benzophenone-3, benzophenone-5, benzophenone-6, benzophenone-8, benzophenone-9, benzophenone-12, and preferentially benzophenone-2 (oxybenzone), or Benzophenone-4 (Uvinul MS40 available from BASF); benzylidenecamphers, in particular 3-benzylidene camphor, benzylidenecamphosulfonic acid, camphor benzalkonium methosulphate, polyacrylamidomethylbenzylidene camphor, terephthalylidene di-camphorsulfonic acid, and preferentially 4-methylbenzylidene camphor (Eusolex 6300 available). at Merck); benzimidazoles, in particular benzimidazilate (Neo Heliopan AP available from Haarmann and Reimer), or phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid (Eusolex 232 available from Merck); benzotriazoles, in particular trisiloxane drometzol, or methylene bis-benzotriazolyltetramethylbutylphenol (Tinosorb M available from Ciba); cinnamates, in particular cinoxate, DEA methoxycinnamate, diisopropyl methylcinnamate, dimethoxycinnamate glyceryl ethylhexanoate, isopropyl methoxycinnamate, isoamyl cinnamate, and preferably ethocrylene (Uvinul N35 available from BASF), octyl methoxycinnamate (Parsol MCX available from Hoffmann La Roche), or octocrylene (Uvinul 539 available from BASF); dibenzoylmethanes, especially butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane (Parsol 1789); imidazolines, in particular ethylhexyl dimethoxybenzylidene dioxoimidazoline; PABAs, in particular ethyl dihydroxypropyl PABA, ethylhexyldimethyl PABA, glyceryl PABA, PABA, PEG-25 PABA, and preferentially diethylhexylbutamido-triazone (Uvasorb HEB available from 3V Sigma), ethylhexyltriazone (Uvinul T150 available from BASF), or ethyl PABA (benzocaine); salicylates, especially dipropylene glycol salicyclate, ethylhexyl salicylate, homosalate, or TEA salicylate; triazines, in particular anisotriazine (Tinosorb S available from Ciba); trisiloxane drometrizole, zinc oxide, titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, iron, zirconium, cerium coated or uncoated. The amount of filters depends on the desired end use. It may range, for example, from 1 to 20% by weight and better still from 2 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

  The amount of filters depends on the desired end use. It may range, for example, from 1 to 20% by weight and better still from 2 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

  The compositions according to the invention may be applied directly to the skin or, alternatively, to occlusive or non-occlusive type cosmetic carriers intended to be applied in a localized manner to the skin. The support can be an occlusive support. By way of example, the support consists of a thermoplastic material chosen from high and low density polyethylenes, polypropylenes, polyvinyl chlorides, copolymers of ethylene and vinyl acetate, polyesters and polyesters. polyurethanes, or a complex of such materials. These materials may also be present in laminated form with at least one sheet of metal such as aluminum foil. The backing layer may be of any suitable thickness which will provide the desired support and protection functions. Preferably, the thickness of the support layer is from about 20 μm to about 1.5 mm. Advantageously, the support layer is sufficiently flexible so as to perfectly fit the profile of the skin, and not to cause the user, a feeling of discomfort. Preferably, however, the support is `non-occlusive '. In the latter case, a support consisting of a paper, a porous or perforated thermoplastic material, a woven fabric, a nonwoven, a perforated nonwoven is advantageously used.

  According to another embodiment of the invention, said compositions according to the invention can be combined with compositions administered orally, containing cosmetic active agents with a beneficial effect on the appearance of the skin. 5 Cosmetic set According to another aspect, the invention also relates to a cosmetic assembly comprising: i) a container defining at least one compartment, said container being closed by a closure member; and ii) a composition as described above and disposed within said compartment.

  The container can be in any suitable form. It may especially be in the form of a bottle, a tube, a pot, a case, a box, a bag or a case.

  The closure element may be in the form of a removable cap, a lid, a lid, a tearable strip, or a capsule, in particular of the type comprising a body fixed to the container and a casquettearticulated on the body. It can also be in the form of an element ensuring the selective closure of the container, including a pump, a valve, or a valve.

  The container may be associated with an applicator. The applicator may be in the form of a block of foam or elastomer, a felt, or a spatula. The applicator may be free (puff or sponge) or integral with a rod carried by the closure member, as described for example in US Patent 5,492,426. The applicator may be integral with the container, as described for example the patent FR 2 761 959.

  The product can be contained directly in the container, or indirectly. By way of example, the product may be placed on an impregnated support, in particular in the form of a wipe or a tampon, and arranged (individually or in several) in a box or in a bag. Such a support incorporating the product is described for example in the application WO 01/03538. The closure member may be coupled to the container by screwing. Alternatively, the coupling between the closure element and the container is other than by screwing, in particular via a bayonet mechanism, snap-fastening, clamping, welding, gluing, or magnetic attraction. By "latching" is meant in particular any system involving the crossing of a bead or a bead of material by elastic deformation of a portion, in particular of the closure element, then by return to the position not elastically constrained of said portion after crossing the bead or cord.

  The container may be at least partly made of thermoplastic material. Examples of thermoplastic materials include polypropylene or polyethylene. Alternatively, the container is made of non-thermoplastic material, in particular glass or metal (or alloy).

  The container may have rigid walls or deformable walls, in particular in the form of a tube or a tube flask.

  The container may include means for causing or facilitating the dispensing of the composition. By way of example, the container may have deformable walls so as to cause the composition to exit in response to an overpressure inside the container, which overpressure is caused by elastic (or non-elastic) crushing of the walls of the container. .

  The container may consist of a housing with a bottom defining at least one housing containing the composition, and a cover, in particular articulated on the bottom, and adapted to cover at least part of said bottom. Such a housing is described for example in the application WO 03/018423 or in the patent FR 2 791 042.

  The container may be equipped with a wiper arranged in the vicinity of the opening of the container. Such a wiper makes it possible to wipe the applicator and possibly the rod which it can be secured. Such a wiper is described, for example, in patent FR 2 792 618.

  The contents of the aforementioned patents or patent applications are incorporated by reference in this application. The invention also relates to a cosmetic skin care process characterized in that a composition as defined above is applied to the skin of the face and / or the body.

  In particular, the method is intended to reduce the visible and / or tactile irregularities of the skin.

  By `visible and / or tactile irregularities of the skin 'is meant in particular irregularities in the surface appearance of the skin, such as pigmentation defects (eg actinic lentigo, senescence spots), scars (ex: acne, chickenpox), lines and wrinkles.

  This method will be advantageous for the care and / or the treatment of persons with mature or even very mature skin and / or on persons having a skin of phototype III to VI, where these visible and / or tactile irregularities of the skin are particularly visible.

  The invention is further illustrated by the examples described hereinafter.

  EXAMPLES The following compositions are prepared in a conventional manner for those skilled in the art.

Example 1

  Example 1: anti-aging cream 25 INCI name% Perfume 0.30 tocopherol 0.06 Disodium EDTA 0.10 Nylon-12 1.80 Acrylates copolymer (Expancel 551) 0.264 madecassoside 0.10 isohexadecane 3.00 Phenylethylbenzenediol (Symwhite 377 from Symrise) 1.0 Dicaprylyl carbonate 2.0 Lupine extract (Structurine from Silab) 1.0 cyclopentasiloxane 20.00 glycerin 20.00 Porpylene glycol 4.00 Alcohol denat. 2.00 PEG / PPG-18/18 dimethicone (DC 5225C) 1.80 Isobutane (Expancel 551) 0.036 Silica 3.00 Polysorbate 20 0.

50 Sodium hyaluronate 0.02 preservatives 0.80 water 38.22 Example 2: regenerating concentrate INCI name% Acrylates / stearyl acrylate / dimethicone methacrylate copolymer 0.40 (KP 561 P from Shin Etsu) Magnesium sulfate 0.

70 Acrylates copolymer 0.88 isohexadecane 15.50 Phenylethylbenzenediol (Symwhite 377 marketed by Symrise) 1.00 Lauroyl isopropyl sarcosinate 2.00 cyclohexasiloxane 10.00 glycerin 5.00 adenosine 0.04 Cetyl PEG / PPG-10/1 Dimethicone (Abil EM 90) 1.5 isobutane 0.12 PTFE 2.00 Sodium hyaluronate 0.10 Aluminum starch octenylsuccinate 2.58 Polyglyceryl-4 isostearate (Isolan GI 34) 0.5 preservatives 0.6 water 57.08 5 Example 3: night cream Ingredients INCI% Glyceryl stearate SE 3.00 Myristyl alcohol 0.10 Stearyl alcohol 0.10 Sodium hydroxide 0.05 Myristyl myristate 2.00 Cetyl alcohol 3.80 Phenylethylbenzenediol (Symwhite 377 sold by Symrise) 0.50 Dicaprylyl carbonate 2.00 cyclopentasiloxane 5.00 Myristic acid 0.036 Palmitic acid 0.528 Stearic acid 0.636 Hydrogenated polyisobutene 8.50 Candelilla wax 0.90 N-octanoyl 5-salicylic acid 0.4 Lupine extract (Structurine from Silab) 1.

00 Blueberry extract (Vaccinium myrtillus) 0.1 petrolatum 4.00 PEG-40 stearate (Myrj 52 P) 2.00 Hydroxyethyl urea 1.00 preservatives 0.80 water 63.35 Example 4: beauty serum INCI Names% Butylene glycol 5.00 Xanthan gum 0.25 Stearyl alcohol 1.30 30 Laureth- 7 0.07 Phenylethylbenzenediol (Symwhite 377 marketed by Symrise) 0.20 Octyl dodecanol 1.00 cyclohexasiloxane 10.80 glycerin 5.00 PEG-20 methyl glucose sesquistearate 2.00 Ceteareth-20 0.70 C13-14 isoparaffin 0.21 Prunus armeniaca (apricot) kernel oil 6.00 Methyl glucose sesquistearate 2.00 polyacrylamide 0.40 Shorea robusta seed butter 2.00 adenosine 0.10 Thermus thermophillus ferment (Sederma vénucéane) 2.00 Hydroxyapatite 0.5 Hydrolyzed algin & magnesium sulfate & manganese sulfate 0.5 (Phycosaccharide AG) preservatives 0.80 water 59.17

Claims (15)

  1. Cosmetic composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, (a) at least one hydroxylated diphenylmethane derivative of formula (I) in which: R1 is chosen from a hydrogen atom, a methyl group and a linear alkyl chain or branched, saturated or unsaturated, having 2 to 4 carbon atoms, an -OH group, and a halogen, - R2 is selected from a hydrogen atom, a methyl group, a linear or branched alkyl chain, saturated or unsaturated , having 2 to 5 carbon atoms, - R3 is chosen from a methyl group or a linear or branched alkyl chain, saturated or unsaturated, having from 2 to 5 carbon atoms, - R4 and R5 are independently one of the another selected from a hydrogen atom, a methyl group, a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl chain having 2 to 5 carbon atoms, an OHOH group or a halogen and (b) at least one additional anti chosen age pa fills, optical brighteners, fluorescers, agents stimulating the synthesis of glycosaminoglycans, agents inhibiting the degradation of elastin, agents stimulating the synthesis of fibronectin, agents stimulating the synthesis of epidermal macromolecules, agents stimulating proliferation and / or differentiation of keratinocytes, agents promoting the maturation of the horny envelope, inhibitors of NO-synthases, peripheral benzodiazepine receptor antagonists, agents increasing the activity of the sebaceous gland, anti-glycation agents, dermorelaxing or dermodecontracting agents, agents promoting cutaneous microcirculation, agents stimulating the energetic metabolism of cells, and mixtures thereof.   2. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the hydroxylated diphenylmethane derivative has the following formula (II): R4 R5   3. Composition according to one of claims 1 or 2, characterized in that the hydroxylated diphenylmethane derivative of formula (I) or (II) is present in the composition in an amount ranging from 0.0001 to 20% by weight. relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.001 to 5%, and even more preferably from 0.01 to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.   4. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the fillers are selected from porous silica microparticles, silicone hemispherical hollow particles, silicone resin powders, acrylic copolymer powders, powders of polyethylenes, crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxane powders coated with silicone resin, talc / titanium dioxide / alumina / silica composite powders, precipitated calcium carbonate, magnesium hydrocarbonate carbonate, barium sulfate, hydroxyapatite, calcium silicate, cerium dioxide and microcapsules of glass or ceramics, silk fibers, cotton, and mixtures thereof.   5. Composition according to claim 4, characterized in that the filler is hydroxyapatite.   6. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the agents promoting the synthesis of glycosaminoglycans are selected from a brown algae extract Padina pavonica, an extract of Saccharomyces cerevisiae, an extract of Laminaria ochroleuca, l Mamaku essence, a watercress extract and their mixtures.   7. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that it further comprises at least one tensing agent.   8. Use of a hydroxylated diphenylmethane derivative of formula (I) or of formula (II) as defined in one of claims 1 or 2 or a composition as defined in any one of claims 1 to 7, said derivative and / or said composition being intended to reduce the browning and / or yellowing of the skin due to skin aging, in particular to photoinduced aging.   9. Use of a composition as defined in one of claims 1 to 7 to reduce visible and / or tactile irregularities of the skin.   10. Use according to claim 9, characterized in that the visual and / or tactile irregularities of the skin are chosen from pigmentary spots, acne scars or chickenpox, wrinkles and fine lines.   11. A cosmetic or dermatological assembly comprising: a) a container delimiting at least one compartment, said container being closed by a closure element; and b) a composition as defined in one of claims 1 to 7 disposed within said compartment.   12. Cosmetic skin care process, comprising the topical application to the skin, of a composition as defined in one of claims 1 to 7.   13. The method of claim 12, characterized in that it aims to reduce visible and / or tactile irregularities of the skin.   14. Method according to one of claims 12 or 13, characterized in that the composition is applied to persons with mature skin.   15. Method according to one of claims 12 or 13, characterized in that the composition is applied to persons having a skin of phototype III to VI. 30