EP2268257A2 - Compositions based on polymer/hydrogen peroxide complexes and uses thereof - Google Patents

Compositions based on polymer/hydrogen peroxide complexes and uses thereof

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Publication number
EP2268257A2
EP2268257A2 EP09746024A EP09746024A EP2268257A2 EP 2268257 A2 EP2268257 A2 EP 2268257A2 EP 09746024 A EP09746024 A EP 09746024A EP 09746024 A EP09746024 A EP 09746024A EP 2268257 A2 EP2268257 A2 EP 2268257A2
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
composition
skin
polymer
cosmetic
assembly
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Ceased
Application number
EP09746024A
Other languages
German (de)
French (fr)
Inventor
Anne-Laure Bernard
Dominique Bordeaux
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
LOreal SA
Original Assignee
LOreal SA
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Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by LOreal SA filed Critical LOreal SA
Publication of EP2268257A2 publication Critical patent/EP2268257A2/en
Ceased legal-status Critical Current

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Classifications

    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/19Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
    • A61K8/22Peroxides; Oxygen; Ozone
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/19Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
    • A61K8/25Silicon; Compounds thereof
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/19Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
    • A61K8/26Aluminium; Compounds thereof
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/36Carboxylic acids; Salts or anhydrides thereof
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/81Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/817Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by a single or double bond to nitrogen or by a heterocyclic ring containing nitrogen; Compositions or derivatives of such polymers, e.g. vinylimidazol, vinylcaprolactame, allylamines (Polyquaternium 6)
    • A61K8/8176Homopolymers of N-vinyl-pyrrolidones. Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/81Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/817Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by a single or double bond to nitrogen or by a heterocyclic ring containing nitrogen; Compositions or derivatives of such polymers, e.g. vinylimidazol, vinylcaprolactame, allylamines (Polyquaternium 6)
    • A61K8/8182Copolymers of vinyl-pyrrolidones. Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61PSPECIFIC THERAPEUTIC ACTIVITY OF CHEMICAL COMPOUNDS OR MEDICINAL PREPARATIONS
    • A61P17/00Drugs for dermatological disorders
    • A61P17/10Anti-acne agents
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/008Preparations for oily skin
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/02Preparations for care of the skin for chemically bleaching or whitening the skin
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/08Anti-ageing preparations
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/08Preparations for bleaching the hair
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/56Compounds, absorbed onto or entrapped into a solid carrier, e.g. encapsulated perfumes, inclusion compounds, sustained release forms
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/80Process related aspects concerning the preparation of the cosmetic composition or the storage or application thereof
    • A61K2800/88Two- or multipart kits

Definitions

  • compositions based on polymer-hydrogen peroxide complexes and their uses
  • the invention relates to a cosmetic assembly comprising a first anhydrous composition comprising a polymer-H 2 O 2 complex, and a second composition comprising an activator promoting the decomposition of H 2 O 2 .
  • the desired effects are a smoothing of the cutaneous relief, less apparent pores, and / or a microrelief and less visible wrinkles, a reduction of the spots, a more radiant complexion, in particular for the dull skins or the dark skins, a sharper, less shiny skin, especially for oily skin.
  • These results can be obtained with conventional care products over relatively long treatment times (greater than 3 months).
  • Other treatments, such as chemical peels, also improve the appearance of the skin durably and noticeable after several application sessions. These treatments are generally accompanied by significant inconveniences, such as large desquamation a few days after an application session.
  • Oily skin is characterized by shiny skin, sometimes oily in appearance, thick, with enlarged pilosebaceous pores. Sebaceous hypersecretion is most often linked to hyperandrogenism due either to an androgen hyperproduction by an endocrine gland, or to peripheral hyperproduction of the sebaceous gland from surrounding androgens and / or proandrogens. Oily skin with a tendency to acne usually has cutaneous imperfections, dilated pores, an inhomogeneous texture of the skin and redness.
  • the known compositions do not make it possible to obtain rapidly a perceptible and lasting improvement in the appearance of the skin.
  • Formulations comprising polyvinylpyrrolidone-H 2 O 2 complexes have been proposed for the treatment of acne.
  • US Pat. No. 5,122,370 (ISP) describes the use of polyvinylpyrrolidone-H 2 O 2 complexes dispersed in an anhydrous medium for the treatment of acne.
  • the formulations proposed are not satisfactory for a cosmetic use as envisaged in the present invention.
  • compositions of the cosmetic assembly developed by the Applicant are stable, and particularly effective for improving the appearance of the skin.
  • the care proposed with the cosmetic set according to the present invention is better tolerated by the skin than the cosmetic care available.
  • the subject of the invention is therefore a cosmetic assembly comprising:
  • a first anhydrous composition comprising at least one polymer-H 2 O 2 complex, said polymer having hydrogen bond acceptor groups capable of forming a non-covalent chemical bond with hydrogen peroxide;
  • a second composition comprising at least one activator promoting the decomposition of H 2 O 2 .
  • the use of the cosmetic assembly according to the invention makes it possible to improve the appearance of the skin, in particular by attenuating the skin imperfections, the spots and the acne lesions, by smoothing the cutaneous relief, making the less visible pores (in particular by reducing the size of the pores), by reducing the number of pimples and blackheads, by making the microrelief and the wrinkles less visible, by restoring radiance to the skin, in particular dull skin, ash or dark, and / or improving the appearance of oily skin, especially by promoting the dullness of the skin or by decreasing the shine of the skin.
  • the cosmetic assembly according to the invention also makes it possible to lighten the skin, to promote the radiance of the complexion, to homogenize the complexion, to diminish the spots, in particular the age spots or the spots due to the sun, or to improve the makeup hold.
  • the subject of the invention is therefore a cosmetic process for improving the appearance of the skin, and in particular for giving at least one of the effects on the skin mentioned above, comprising the application on the skin of the cosmetic assembly according to the invention, after mixing the compositions constituting said set.
  • the subject of the invention is also a cosmetic process for the care of oily skin, in particular with a view to mattifying the skin, comprising the topical application thereto of the cosmetic assembly as described above, after mixing the compositions. constituting said assembly.
  • the compositions constituting the cosmetic assembly according to the invention will now be described in detail.
  • the first composition of the cosmetic assembly according to the invention is therefore an anhydrous composition which comprises at least one polymer-H 2 ⁇ 2 complex.
  • polymer complex-H 2 O 2 in the context of the present invention, denotes a complex between a polymer as defined below and hydrogen peroxide.
  • the complex may in particular be formed before incorporation into the first composition according to the invention.
  • the polymer and hydrogen peroxide are non-covalently bonded, in particular by hydrogen bonds.
  • the term "polymer” denotes any polymer having hydrogen bond acceptor groups capable of forming a non-covalent chemical bond with hydrogen peroxide.
  • the hydrogen bond acceptor groups are, in the linear structure (or linear main chain) of said polymer, advantageously separated by a distance less than or equal to 5 carbon atoms, preferably less than or equal to 3 carbon atoms, so as to form stable hydrogen bonds with hydrogen peroxide.
  • hydrogen bond acceptor groups form non-covalent chemical bonds with hydrogen peroxide in a molecular ratio of 1: 1, 2: 1 or a mixture of these ratios.
  • Hydrogen bonding acceptor groups are part of the general knowledge in the field of chemistry. In this respect, mention may be made of heteroatoms carrying free doublet (s) such as oxygen or nitrogen atoms.
  • the polymer is capable of forming a continuous film on the skin, thus exhibiting a film-forming character.
  • a polymer based on heterocyclic N-vinylic units is preferred.
  • the ring contains 5 or 6 atoms and includes heteroatoms such as sulfur or oxygen, and may be substituted or unsubstituted.
  • the heterocyclic N-vinyl monomers are N-vinylcaprolactam, N-vinylpyrrolidone or N-vinylimidazole or mixtures thereof.
  • Possible comonomers may be vinyl acetate, isopropenyl acetate, vinyl laurate, vinyl benzoate, methyl vinyl ether, 2-methyl vinyl imidazole, N-vinylpiperidone, N-vinyl-2-oxazolidone, methyl acrylate, acrylate of ethyl, styrene or a cationically modified vinyl monomer.
  • Suitable copolymers contain, for example, from 30 to 99% by weight of N-vinyl monomers and from 1 to 70% by weight of a comonomer based on the total weight of the polymer.
  • the polymer is poly-N-vinyl-poly-2-pyrrolidone or a copolymer thereof.
  • Poly-N-vinyl-poly-2-pyrrolidone is also commonly known as polyvinylpyrrolidone or "PVP".
  • the polymers include soluble or insoluble PVP polymers, crosslinked or otherwise.
  • the PVP-containing copolymers can be derived from vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acetate (also known as Copolyvidone, Copolyvidonum or VP-VAc) or vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminoethylmethacrylate.
  • polyvinylpyrrolidone-H 2 O 2 complex or "PVP-H 2 O 2 , in the context of the present invention, denotes a complex between a polyvinylpyrrolidone as defined above and hydrogen peroxide.
  • the PVP-H2O2 complexes have the advantage of their film-forming properties and the fact that they exhibit the same activity as free hydrogen peroxide, at an equivalent rate of H2O2, whatever the formulation medium. They allow easy application, a good hold of the product on the face, especially avoiding it running in the eyes.
  • the polymer-H 2 O 2 complexes may be produced by procedures well known to those skilled in the art.
  • Peroxydone® K-30 and K-90 are linear homopolymers of N-vinylpyrrolidone of molecular weight 58,000 and 1,300,000, respectively, complexed with hydrogen peroxide present in an amount of 17 to 20% by weight. relative to the total weight of the complex.
  • the amount of hydrogen peroxide in the complex described above can be expressed as a percentage by weight of hydrogen peroxide with respect to the total weight of said complex.
  • the peroxide index (PI) is the amount of product (the polymer-H 2 O 2 complex containing the hydrogen peroxide) present in the sample, expressed in milliequivalents of active oxygen per kilogram, oxidizing the iodide of potassium under the operating conditions defined by ISO 3960 and AFNOR T 60-220.
  • the percentage by weight of H 2 O 2 in the complex corresponds to:
  • the amount of hydrogen peroxide in said complex may be in particular between 0.1 to 30% by weight, preferably 10 to 25% by weight relative to the weight of said complex.
  • the amount of H 2 O 2 in the first composition is between 0.1 and 30%. Preferably, it is between 0.1 and 25% by weight, preferably between 0.1 and 20% by weight.
  • the first composition of the cosmetic assembly comprises 0.5 to 25% by weight of hydrogen peroxide relative to the total weight of said first composition.
  • the amount of complex described above is such that the content of H 2 O 2 in the cosmetic set (that is to say the composition resulting from the mixing of the first and second compositions of the cosmetic assembly defined above) is between 0.01 and 7%, preferably between 0.05 and 5%, preferably between 0.1 and 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the cosmetic assembly.
  • Specific H 2 O 2 contents are 0.05; 0.1; 0.2; 0.3; 0.4; 0.5; 0.6; 0.7; 0.8; 0.9; 1; 2; 3 and 4% by weight relative to the total weight of the cosmetic assembly.
  • the amount of polymer-H 2 O 2 complex in the first composition may be in particular between 0.1 and 100% by weight relative to the total weight of the first composition.
  • the first composition consists of the polymer-H 2 O 2 complex, said polymer preferably being PVP.
  • the first composition is in particular in powder form.
  • the first composition comprises in particular between 0.5 and 85% by weight of the polymer-H 2 O 2 complex, in particular between 1 and 75%, between 2 and 55%, between 3 and 45%, preferably between 5% and 40% and even more preferably between 10% and 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the first composition.
  • the complex is present in an amount of between 11 and 22% by weight relative to the total weight of the first composition.
  • the first composition of the cosmetic assembly comprises a polymer-H 2 ⁇ 2 complex as defined above and a cosmetically or dermatologically acceptable anhydrous carrier.
  • the assembly according to the invention being intended for topical use on the skin, the vehicle in the first composition must be acceptable from the cosmetic or dermatological standpoint, more particularly without odor, color or unpleasant appearance, and which does not generate tingling. tugging or redness unacceptable to the user.
  • a cosmetically or dermatologically acceptable carrier an environment compatible with keratin materials of human beings such as the skin, the mucous membranes, the nails, the scalp and / or the hair is understood.
  • carrier in the context of the present invention refers to an organic solvent or a mixture of organic solvents.
  • the organic solvents may in particular be chosen from vehicles based on glycols (glycolated vehicles), alcohols (alcoholic vehicles), ketones, ethers, esters, aldehydes and their mixture, which are acceptable from the cosmetic or dermatological point of view.
  • alcoholic vehicle a vehicle comprising at least one water-soluble lower monoalcohol representing at least 50% by weight of the vehicle.
  • lower monoalcohol is meant an alcohol having from 1 to 8 carbon atoms and comprising only one hydroxyl function.
  • lower monoalcohols include, for example, ethanol, isopropanol, butanol, pentanol and mixtures thereof.
  • primary alcohols having 1 to 4 carbon atoms are selected. Ethanol is preferred.
  • glycol carrier means a vehicle comprising at least one organic compound having at least two hydroxyl functions (referred to herein as glycol).
  • glycerol monomeric glycols, and in particular diols, such as in particular propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, butylene glycol, diethylene glycol, ethylene glycol, hexylene glycol, isoprene glycol, pentylene glycol, butanediol,
  • PEG polyethylene glycols with a molecular weight of less than 600, such as PEG-8 (or polyethylene
  • polymeric glycols in particular polyethylene glycols with a molecular weight of less than 600, such as PEG-8 (or Polyethylene 400), PEG-6, and PEG-12.
  • Preferred PEGs are PEG-8 or PEG-6.
  • the glycolic carrier according to the invention comprises at least two glycols chosen from monomeric glycols and PEGs, or low molecular weight PEGs and high molecular weight PEGs.
  • the glycol carrier according to the invention comprises at least one diol and at least one glycol selected from glycerine or a PEG.
  • the glycol vehicle may include the following glycols associations:
  • the glycol vehicle according to the invention comprises butylene glycol and optionally PEG-8.
  • the glycol carrier comprises PEG-8.
  • the first composition of the cosmetic assembly according to the invention comprises a PVP-H2O2 complex and a glycol vehicle comprising PEG-8.
  • the glycolic carrier contains a glycols / glycerin mixture
  • the glycerin content will be less than 50% by weight of glycerin relative to the total weight of the vehicle.
  • the glycerin content when the vehicle is composed of a mixture of a glycol-based vehicle based on glycerine and an alcoholic vehicle (especially based on ethanol), the glycerin content will be less than 50% by weight of glycerin relative to the total weight of the vehicle.
  • the vehicle comprises a vehicle comprising at least one glycol as defined above (including the preferred modes), preferably a monomeric glycol and / or a polymeric glycol, and at least one alcohol as defined herein. above, preferably ethanol.
  • ketones which are liquid at room temperature (20-25 ° C.), such as methyl ethyl ketone, methyl isobutyl ketone, diisobutyl ketone or isophorone, cyclohexanone, acetone
  • propylene glycol ethers which are liquid at room temperature, such as propylene glycol monomethyl ether, propylene glycol monomethyl ether acetate or dipropylene glycol mono-butyl ether
  • cyclic ethers such as gamma-butyrolactone
  • short-chain esters having from 3 to 8 carbon atoms in total), such as ethyl acetate, methyl acetate, propyl acetate, isopropyl acetate, n-butyl, isopentyl acetate, methoxypropyl acetate, butyl lactate
  • ethers which are liquid at ambient temperature
  • the vehicle of the first composition comprises a small amount of oil.
  • the amount of oil in the first composition is preferably less than or equal to 7%, by weight relative to the total weight of the first composition, more preferably less than 5%, preferably less than 4%.
  • the vehicle of the first composition does not include oil.
  • the polymers used in the complex of the first composition preferably have film-forming properties. Consequently, the mixture of the film-forming polymer with an oil, if it is in a higher amount than indicated above, results in the formation of a composition having an appearance and a texture that is not very compatible with a cosmetic use.
  • the term "oil” according to the invention means a fatty substance which is liquid at ambient temperature (approximately 25 ° C.) and in particular as defined below.
  • the first composition according to the present invention comprises, as polymer-H 2 O 2 complex, one of the PVP-H 2 O 2 complexes marketed by ISP under the name Peroxydone®, especially the Peroxydone® K-30 and K- 90, preferably Peroxydone K-30.
  • this PVP-H2O2 complex is dispersed in PEG-8.
  • the first composition of the cosmetic assembly according to the invention is anhydrous.
  • the water content in the first composition is low.
  • the amount of water does not generally exceed 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the first composition. It may in particular contain a small amount of water that usually comes from the raw materials used.
  • the quantity of water in the first composition is preferably less than or equal to 7%, by weight relative to the total weight of the first composition, more preferably less than 5%, preferably less than 4%.
  • the low water content in the first composition according to the invention has the effect of a greater stability of the hydrogen peroxide in the composition.
  • the first composition of the assembly according to the invention does not comprise an enhancer promoting the decomposition of H2O2 (see below the description of the second composition for the definition of the term "activator promoting decomposition H2O2 ").
  • the activator is thus separated from hydrogen peroxide, which makes it possible to improve the effectiveness of the cosmetic treatment according to the invention.
  • the second composition of the cosmetic assembly comprises at least one activator promoting the decomposition of H2O2.
  • H2O2 decomposing activator covers any molecule or composition that can cause the decomposition of H2O2 into water and oxygen.
  • activators especially sodium or potassium hydroxide, ammonia or triethanolamine, sodium bicarbonate (or ammonium), sodium carbonate, gluconate of manganese, sodium borate, peroxide calcium, calcium hydroxide, basic amino acids and their salts, such as lysine, arginine and their salts; guanidine; potassium carbonate, urea, aminomethylpropanol, aminopropanol, monoethanolamine (MEA), aminopropylthethoxysilane (APTES), derivatives of sodium or magnesium silicates, in particular laponite (in particular Laponite XLG sold by the company Rockwood), smectite, sodium metasilicate, hectorite, basic zeolites, in particular the zeolite marketed by Zeochem under the reference X-MOL, or their mixture.
  • basic compounds especially sodium or potassium hydroxide, ammonia or triethanolamine, sodium bicarbonate (or ammonium), sodium carbonate, gluconate of manganese, sodium bo
  • the activators are chosen from sodium bicarbonate, laponite, zeolites, calcium peroxide, sodium hydroxide (preferably 10% in water), sodium metasilicate and their mixture.
  • the activators are preferably selected from sodium bicarbonate, zeolites and calcium peroxide.
  • the activator is a zeolite.
  • the second composition of the cosmetic assembly according to the invention comprises a zeolite.
  • the cosmetic assembly according to the invention comprises - a first anhydrous composition comprising a PVP-H2O2 complex, preferably in a glycolic vehicle comprising PEG-8, and - a second composition comprising a zeolite.
  • the activator may preferably be chosen from compounds or compositions capable of generating a pH greater than 8.5, preferably greater than 9, when they are mixed with a polymer-H 2 O 2 complex at 11% by weight in water (with a percentage of H 2 O 2 of 2% in the aqueous composition) relative to the total weight of the mixture (polymer-H 2 O 2 / water).
  • the following protocol can be used to select the activators.
  • a dispersion of 11 g of Peroxydone K-30 ® (ISP) is made in 75 g of water to which increasing amounts of activator are added.
  • the pH is measured immediately after each addition.
  • the excess activator is added until the activator / H 2 O 2 weight ratio reaches 10.
  • the amount of H2O2 is about 2g because the peroxydone K-30 ® contains 18.5% H2O2 by weight relative to the total weight of the Peroxydone K-30 ® (i.e. to say of the complex).
  • the preferred activators are chosen from Rockwood laplonite XLG, zeolite X-MOL marketed by Zeochem, calcium peroxide, sodium hydroxide (10% in water) and sodium metasilicate and their mixture (see Table 1 below). below).
  • activators which make it possible to obtain, in the test described above, a pH of between 9 and 11, preferably between 9 and 10.
  • the amount of activators in the second composition depends on the components of the first and second compositions of the assembly according to the invention, their respective amounts and their galenic forms. In particular, those skilled in the art will take care to choose the amount of activators so that when the compositions of the cosmetic assembly according to the invention are mixed, the resulting mixture can express a pH greater than 8.5, preferably greater than 9, and especially between 9 and 11, preferably between 9 and 10. For reasons of tolerance, however, a pH of between 9 and 9.5 is preferred. As an illustration, it will be possible to use amounts of activators defined on the basis of Table 1 above.
  • the pH of the mixture will be between pH 8.3 and 9 inclusive.
  • the first composition according to the invention is anhydrous and the second composition may possibly be too.
  • the mixture of the two anhydrous compositions does not allow the measurement of a pH.
  • water is added to this mixture, for example in an amount greater than 15%, preferably greater than 20% by weight relative to the total weight of water + mixture of the compositions, and the pH is measured. This measured pH is the pH expressed.
  • the second composition comprises at least one activator and optionally a cosmetically or dermatologically acceptable carrier.
  • the second composition consists solely of one or more activators.
  • the second composition may be in powder form.
  • the activator is a zeolite in powder form.
  • the first composition comprises a PVP-H2O2 complex and a glycolic vehicle comprising PEG-8, and the second composition consists of a zeolite in powder form.
  • the second composition comprises at least one activator and a cosmetically or dermatologically acceptable carrier.
  • the assembly according to the invention being intended for topical use on the skin, the vehicle in the second composition must also be acceptable from the cosmetic or dermatological standpoint, more particularly without odor, color or unpleasant appearance, and which does not generate tingling, tightness or redness unacceptable to the user.
  • the same vehicles as those described above for the first composition of the cosmetic assembly can be used in the second composition.
  • the second composition may further comprise at least one oil. It may also include water.
  • oils that can be used in the composition of the invention, mention may be made for example of:
  • linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin such as paraffin oils, volatile or not, and their derivatives, petroleum jelly, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam® oil; branched alkanes, C 8 -C 6 isoalkanes C 8 -C 6, such as isododecane (also known as 2,2,4,4, 6-pentamethylheptane), isodecane and isohexadecane;
  • triglycerides such as liquid triglycerides of fatty acids containing from 4 to 10 carbon atoms, such as triglycerides of heptanoic or octanoic acids; or hydrocarbon oils of plant origin such as, for example, sweet almond, sunflower, corn, soybean, squash, coriander, grape seed, sesame, hazelnut, apricot oils.
  • triglycerides of fatty acids containing from 4 to 10 carbon atoms such as triglycerides of heptanoic or octanoic acids
  • hydrocarbon oils of plant origin such as, for example, sweet almond, sunflower, corn, soybean, squash, coriander, grape seed, sesame, hazelnut, apricot oils.
  • Prunus Armenica OiI macadamia, arara, castor oil
  • avocado, triglycerides of caprylic / capric acids such as those sold by Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the names Mig
  • esters and synthetic ethers in particular of fatty acids, such as the oils of formulas R 1 COOR 2 and R 1 OR 2 in which R 1 represents the residue of a fatty acid comprising from 8 to 29 carbon atoms, and R 2 represents a hydrocarbon chain, branched or unbranched, containing from 3 to 30 carbon atoms, for example Purcellin oil or 660084 PCL-LIQUID from the company SYMRISE (a mixture of cetylstearyl ethyl 2 hexanoate and isopropyl myristate), isononyl isononanoate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate (or octyl palmitate), octyl-2 stearate dodecyl, octyl-2-dodecyl erucate, isostearyl isostearate; hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate,
  • fatty alcohols having from 8 to 26 carbon atoms such as isoketyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol and their mixture (cetearyl alcohol), octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, oleic alcohol or linoleic alcohol;
  • silicone oils such as volatile or non-volatile polymethylsiloxanes (PDMS) with a linear or cyclic silicone chain, which are liquid or pasty at room temperature, in particular cyclopolydimethylsiloxanes (cyclomethicones) such as cyclohexasiloxane and cyclopentasiloxane; polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl, alkoxy or phenyl groups, during or at the end of the silicone chain, groups having from 2 to 24 carbon atoms; phenyl silicones such as phenyltrimethicones, phenyldimethicones, phenylthmethylsiloxydiphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl-dimethicones, diphenylmethyl-diphenyltrisiloxanes, 2-phenylethyltrimethylsiloxysilicates, and polymethylphenylsiloxanes;
  • PDMS volatile or non-volatile polymethyl
  • volatile oils and in particular non-oxidizable volatile oils, such as short-chain hydrocarbons, ethers or polydimethylsiloxanes (C2-C20) are used.
  • volatile oils such as short-chain hydrocarbons, ethers or polydimethylsiloxanes (C2-C20) are used.
  • Dicaprylyl ether and cyclopentasiloxane may be mentioned in particular.
  • the second composition of the assembly according to the invention is an anhydrous composition.
  • the water content in the second composition is low.
  • the amount of water does not generally exceed 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the second composition. It may in particular contain a small amount of water that usually comes from the raw materials used.
  • the amount of water in the second composition is preferably less than or equal to 7% by weight relative to the total weight of the second composition, more preferably less than 5%, preferably less than 4%.
  • the second composition according to the invention is a composition comprising water. The amount of water depends on the type of composition envisaged for the cosmetic treatment.
  • this composition contains water in an amount such that the mixture of the first and second compositions of the cosmetic assembly according to the invention comprises less than 70%, preferably less than 50%, by weight of water per relative to the total weight of the mixture, preferably less than 40
  • the second composition comprises more than 10% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the second composition.
  • the second composition of the assembly according to the invention does not comprise H2O2.
  • the second composition is a composition comprising a zeolite as an activator and an anhydrous or aqueous glycol vehicle comprising butylene glycol.
  • the glycol vehicle comprising butylene glycol is an aqueous vehicle.
  • compositions of the cosmetic assembly according to the invention may also comprise at least one gelling agent or thickener.
  • gelling agent or thickener any gelling agent compatible with a cosmetic or dermatological use.
  • alkyl polyethylene glycol such as in particular PEG 120 methyl di (or tri) oleate (Noveon Glucamate DOE 120, for example), PEG 150 pentaerytrityl tetrastearate (Croda's Crothix, for example); cellulose derivatives, such as in particular hydroxypropyl methyl cellulose (Klucel HF Pharm from Aqualon Hercules, for example); or poloxamers, such as in particular a condensate of ethylene oxide, propylene oxide and ethylene oxide (for example: 128 EO / 54 OP / 128 EO) (MW: 14000) sold under the name SYNPERONIC PE / F108 by Uniquema (INCI name: Poloxamer 338); or acrylic homo- and copolymers and homo- and copolymers of acrylamido methylpropanesulphonic
  • the amount of gelling agent in the compositions may vary to a large extent, it is preferably between 0.01 and 10% by weight, preferably between 0.5 and 5%, relative to the total weight of the composition concerned.
  • compositions according to the invention additives and / or cosmetic or dermatological active agents.
  • Foaming surfactants are detergents and are distinguished from emulsifying surfactants by the value of their HLB (Hydrophilic Lipophilic Balance), the HLB being the ratio between the hydrophilic part and the lipophilic part in the molecule.
  • HLB Hydrophilic Lipophilic Balance
  • the term HLB is well known to those skilled in the art and is described, for example, in "The HLB System, A time-saving guide to Emulsifier Selection" (published by ICI Americas Inc, 1984).
  • the HLB generally ranges from 3 to 8 for the preparation of water-in-oil (W / O) emulsions and from 8 to 18 for the preparation of oil-in-water (O / W) emulsions, while foaming surfactants generally have an HLB greater than 20.
  • compositions according to the invention may comprise a surfactant having an HLB greater than 20.
  • the surfactant may be present in a composition of the combination according to the invention in an amount ranging from 0.1 to 50% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 35% by weight, preferably ranging from 0.5 to 20% by weight. % by weight, in particular from 1 to 15% by weight, or even 5 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition concerned.
  • the nonionic surfactants may be chosen for example from alkyl polyglucosides (APG), maltose esters, polyglycerolated fatty alcohols, glucamine derivatives such as 2-ethylhexyloxycarbonyl-n-methylglucamine, and mixtures thereof.
  • alkylpolyglucosides use is preferably made of those containing an alkyl group containing from 6 to 30 carbon atoms and preferably from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and containing a hydrophilic group (glucoside) preferably comprising 1, 2 to 3 glucoside units. .
  • alkylpolyglucosides include eg decyl glucoside (Alkyl-C9 / C11 -polyglucoside (1.4)) as the product sold under the name Mydol 10 ® by Kao Chemicals, the product sold under the name Plantaren 2000 UP ® by Cognis and the product sold under the name Oramix NS 10 ® by Seppic; caprylyl / capryl glucoside such as the product sold under the name Oramix CG 110 ® by the company Seppic; lauryl glucoside such as the products marketed under the names Plantaren 1200 N ® and 1200 ® PLANTACARE by Cognis; coco-glucoside as the product sold under the name PLANTACARE 818 / UP ® by Cognis; and their mixtures.
  • decyl glucoside Alkyl-C9 / C11 -polyglucoside (1.4)
  • Mydol 10 ® by Kao Chemicals
  • the maltose derivatives are, for example, those described in document EP-A-566438, such as O-octanoyl-6'-D-maltose, or else O-dodecanoyl-6'-D-maltose described in document FR-2739556.
  • the polyglycerolated fatty alcohols include polyglycerolated dodecanediol (3.5 mol of glycerol), a product sold under the name Chimexane ® NF by Chimex.
  • the anionic surfactants may be chosen for example from soaps (alkaline salts of fatty acids), carboxylates, acylamino acids, amidoether carboxylates, alkyl polyaminocarboxylates, alkyl ether sulfates such as sodium laureth sulphates, alkyl sulphonates, isethionates, alkyl methyltaurates, alkyl sulfosuccinates, alkylsulfoacetates, alkylphosphates (mono or dialkyl phosphates), their salts, and mixtures thereof.
  • soaps alkaline salts of fatty acids
  • carboxylates alkyl polyaminocarboxylates
  • alkyl ether sulfates such as sodium laureth sulphates, alkyl sulphonates, isethionates, alkyl methyltaurates, alkyl sulfosuccinates, alkylsul
  • alkyl glycol carboxylic acids or acid 2- (2-hydroxyalkyloxy acetic acid
  • their salts such as for example sodium lauryl glycol carboxylate, sold under the names Beaulight SHAA ® or Beaulight LCA-25N ® by the company SANYO (CTFA name: Sodium Lauryl Glycol Carboxylate), or its corresponding acid form sold under the name BEAULIGHT SHAA (Acid Form) ® by the company SANYO
  • acylamino acids mention may be made, for example, of sodium cocoylglycinate sold by the Ajinomoto company under the name Amilite GCS 12, the sodium lauroyl glutamate marketed by Ajinomoto under the name Amisoft LS11 and the sodium lauroyl sarcosinate sold by the company Seppic under the name ORAMIX L 30.
  • alkylphosphates mention may be made of for example lauryl phosphate sold by Kao under the name MAP
  • amphoteric and zwitterionic foaming surfactants may be chosen, for example, from betaine derivatives including amidopropylbetaines, amphoacetates and amphodiacetates, hydroxylsultaines and their mixtures.
  • betaine derivatives include for example the coco betaine as the product sold under the name DEHYTON AB-30 ® by Cognis; lauryl such as the product sold under the name Genagen KB ® by Clariant; oxyethylenated (10 EO) as the product sold under the name Lauryl Ether (10 EO) Betaine ® by Shin Nihon Portugal; oxyethylenated (10 EO) as the product sold under the name Stearyl Ether (10 EO) Betaine ® by Shin Nihon Portugal; cocamidopropyl betaine marketed for example under the name VELVETEX BK 35 ® by Cognis; the undecylenamidopropyl betaine sold, for example under the name Amphoram U ® by Ceca; and their mixtures.
  • N-cocoyl-N-carboxymethoxyethyl-N-carboxymethyl-N-ethylenediamine disodium (CTFA name: disodium cocamphodiacetate) as the product sold under the name MIRANOL C2M CONC ® NP by the Rhodia Chimie company
  • CTFA name sodium cocamphoacetate
  • a surfactant that is suitable for the invention may be chosen from alkylpolyglucosides, betaine derivatives, alkylglycol carboxylic acids and their salts, alkyl ether sulfates, alkylphosphates, amphodiacetates, amphoacetates, alkylglycinates, acyls glutamates, acyls sarcosinates and mixtures thereof.
  • a surfactant that is suitable for the invention may be chosen from decyl glucoside, cocoyl glucoside, sodium lauryl ether sulfate, cocoyl betaine, lauroyl betaine, cocamidopropyl betaine, lauramido propylbetaine and lauryl glycol. carboxylate, cocoampho (di) acetate, lauroampho (di) acetate, potassium lauryl phosphate, a mixture thereof.
  • Preferred foaming surfactants include:
  • - sodium cocoyl isethionate such as the mixture sodium cocoyl isethionate / sodium isethionoate marketed by BASF under the name Jordapon CI P ®
  • - decyl glucoside such as the Plantacare 2000 UP ® marketed by Cognis;
  • LAURATE Potassium DUB LK ® marketed by Stearinerie Dubois
  • Sodium lauroyl OAT amino acids such as aqueous 30% solution of lauroyl oat amino acids of the form of protected sodium salt (1, 4% phenonip) sold under the name Proteol OAT ® by Seppic
  • potassium lauroyl wheat amino acids such as potassium-lauroyl wheat protein hydrolyzed in water at 25% stabilized (0.4-0.4% potassium phenon-sorbate), marketed under the name AMINOFOAM W OR ® by Croda
  • Chimexane ® from Chimex
  • CTFA name disodium cocamphodiacetate
  • aqueous solution such as Rhodia's MIRATAINE BB / FLA; - PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate or glyceryl cocoate oxyethylenated (7 EO), such as Cetiol ® HE from Cognis;
  • lauryl betaine as lauryldimethylamine betaine in 30% aqueous solution, sold under the name Empigen BB / LS ® by Huntsman
  • - sodium cocoamphoacetate such as N-cocyl amidoethyl, N-hydroxyethyl sodium glycinate in 32% aqueous solution sold under the name MIRANOL ULTRA C 32 ® by Rhodia
  • MIRANOL ULTRA C 32 ® by Rhodia
  • TEXAPON ® T 42 40% aqueous solution sold under the name TEXAPON ® T 42 by Cognis;
  • Exfoliating particles, fillers or mixtures thereof can also be used in the compositions of the assembly according to the invention.
  • exfoliating particles exfoliating or exfoliating particles of mineral, vegetable or organic origin may be used.
  • the balls or the polyethylene powder such as those sold under the name Microthene MN 727 or Microthene MN 710-20 by the company Equistar or the powder marketed under the name Gotalene 120 Incolore 2 by the Dupont company.
  • nylon particles such as those sold by Arkema under the name Orgasol 2002 EXD NAT COS; fibers such as polyamide fibers, such as those sold by the company Utexbel under the name Polymamide PULP 12185 SIZE 0.3 MM; polyvinyl chloride powder; pumice stone (INCI name: pumice) such as Eyraud's pumice 3 / B; hulls of crushed fruit stones such as crushed apricot kernels or nut hulls; sawdust; glass beads; alumina (aluminum oxide) (INCI name: Alumina) as the product marketed under the name Dermagrain 900 by Marketech International; sugar crystals; beads which melt during application to the skin, such as, for example, spheres based on mannitol and cellulose sold under the names Unisphomme by Induchem, agar capsules sold under the names Primasponge by the Cognis company, and spheres based on jojoba esters marketed under the names Flor
  • compositions of the assembly according to the invention may also contain other fillers such as, for example, talc, modified starch or not, and in particular starches esterified with octenylsuccinic anhydride and more particularly "Aluminum Starch".
  • octenyl succinate such as the product marketed by National Starch under the name Dry-Flo.
  • the compositions of the assembly according to the invention contain at least one filler.
  • fillers can be any material that can mask the visible or tactile irregularities of the skin. These fillers can in particular modify the surface appearance of the skin by a tightening effect, a camouflage effect, or a blurring effect.
  • filler the following compounds may be exemplified:
  • silica microparticles such as Silica Beads ® SB 150 and SB 700 medium size Myochi 5 .mu.m and SUNSPHERES H ® series from Asahi Glass, H33, H51 size of respectively 3.5 and 5 .mu.m.
  • NLK 500 ®, NLK 506 ® and 510 ® Takemoto NLK OII and Fat, in particular described in EP-A-1579849,
  • silicone resin powders such as silicone resin Tospearl ® 145 from GE Silicone average size of 4.5 .mu.m.
  • acrylic copolymers especially poly (meth) acrylate such as PMMA particles Jurimer MBI ® Nihon Junyoki average size of 8 .mu.m, hollow PMMA spheres marketed under the name Covabead ® LH 85 by Wackherr company and expanded vinylidene / acrylonitrile / methylene methacrylate microspheres sold under the name Expancel ® .
  • poly (meth) acrylate such as PMMA particles Jurimer MBI ® Nihon Junyoki average size of 8 .mu.m
  • hollow PMMA spheres marketed under the name Covabead ® LH 85 by Wackherr company and expanded vinylidene / acrylonitrile / methylene methacrylate microspheres sold under the name Expancel ® .
  • the particular polyethylene powders comprising at least one ethylene / acrylic acid such as ® Flobeads EA 209 E Medium sized Sumimoto 10 .mu.m.
  • talc talc
  • mica kaolin
  • lauryl glycine starch powders crosslinked with octyanyl succinate anhydride, boron nitride, polytetrafluoroethylene powders, precipitated calcium carbonate, hydrocarbon carbonate, magnesium, barium sulfate, hydroxyapatite, calcium silicate, cerium dioxide and microcapsules of glass or ceramics.
  • hydrophilic fibers or natural or synthetic hydrophobic, inorganic or organic such as silk fibers, cotton, wool, flax fiber, cellulose fibers extracted especially from wood, vegetables or algae, polyamide (Nylon ®), of modified cellulose, poly-p-phenyleneterephthalamide fibers, acrylic fibers, polyolefin fibers, glass, silica, aramid, carbon, polytetrafluoroethylene (Teflon ®), insoluble collagen, polyester, polyvinyl chloride or vinylidene, polyvinyl alcohol, polyacrylonitrile, chitosan, polyurethane, polyethylene phthalate, fibers formed from a mixture of polymers, synthetic resorbable fibers, and mixtures thereof described in patent application EP 1 151 742.
  • abrasive fillers which via a mechanical effect a smoothing of the skin's microrelief, such as abrasive silica such as abrasive SP ® of Semanez or powders nuts or shells (apricot or walnut e.g. Cosmetochem).
  • abrasive silica such as abrasive SP ® of Semanez or powders nuts or shells (apricot or walnut e.g. Cosmetochem).
  • the charge can be a "soft focus” charge.
  • “soft-focus” load we mean a load which in addition gives transparency to the complexion and a fuzzy effect.
  • the "soft-focus” charges have an average particle size of less than or equal to 15 microns. These particles can be of any shape and in particular be spherical or nonspherical. More preferably, these fillers are nonspherical.
  • the "soft-focus” fillers may be chosen from silica and silicate powders, in particular alumina powders, polymethyl methacrylate (PMMA) type powders, talc, silica / TiO 2 or silica / zinc oxide composites, and powders. polyethylene, starch powders, polyamide powders, styrene / acrylic copolymer powders, silicone elastomers, and mixtures thereof.
  • talc medium of less than or equal to 3 microns, for example medium talc number of 1, 8 microns and especially the product sold under the trade name Talc P3 ® by Nippon Talc , Nylon ® 12 powder, in particular that sold under the name Orgasol 2002 Extra D Nat Cos ® by the company Atochem, silica particles treated on the surface with a mineral wax 1 to 2% (INCI name: hydrated silica (and) paraffin) such as those marketed by Degussa, amorphous silica microspheres, such as those sold under the name Sunsphere, for example H-53 ® reference by Asahi Glass company, and silica microbeads such as those sold under the name SB- 700® or SB- 150® by Miyoshi, this list is not limiting.
  • silica particles treated on the surface with a mineral wax 1 to 2% such as those marketed by Degussa
  • amorphous silica microspheres such as those sold under the name Sun
  • exfoliating particles and fillers may be present in an amount ranging, for example, from 0.5 to 20% by weight, preferably from 1 to 15% by weight, better still from 1 to 10% and even more preferably from 2 to 5% by weight. relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • compositions of the assembly according to the invention may also comprise all the constituents usually employed in the intended application.
  • compositions used may further comprise at least one desquamating agent and / or at least one soothing agent.
  • treating agent any compound capable of acting:
  • ⁇ -hydroxyacids in particular salicylic acid and its derivatives (including n-octanoyl-5-salicylic acid); ⁇ -hydroxy acids, such as glycolic, citric, lactic, tartaric, malic or mandelic acids; urea; gentisic acid; oligofucoses; cinnamic acid; Saphora japonica extract; resveratrol; for the acids, their organic or inorganic salts are preferably used; a salt of n-octanoyl-5-salicylic acid is preferably used;
  • EDTA N-acyl-N, N ', N' ethylene diaminethacetic acid
  • 2-oxothiazolidine-4-carboxylic acid derivatives procysteine
  • drifts glycine-type alpha amino acids as described in EP-0 852 949, as well as sodium methyl glycine diacetate marketed by BASF under the trade name TRILON M
  • honey sugar derivatives such as O-octanoyl-6-D-maltose and N-acetyl glucosamine.
  • ⁇ -glycyrrhetinic acid and its salts and / or its derivatives glycyrrhetinic acid monoglucuronide, stearyl glycyrrhetinate, 3-stearoyloxy glycyrrhetic acid
  • ursolic acid and its salts oleanolic acid and its salts
  • betulinic acid and its salts an extract of Paeonia suffruticosa and / or lactiflora
  • salts of salicylic acid and in particular zinc salicylate phycosaccharides from Codif, an extract of Laminaria saccharina, canola oil, bisabolol and extracts of chamomile, allantoin SEPIC SEPI
  • compositions of the assembly according to the invention will generally be present in the compositions of the assembly according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.01% to 20% by weight and preferably from 0.1% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the active ingredients will be incorporated in the second composition of the cosmetic assembly, containing the activator of the H2O2 decomposition, or in an additional composition of the cosmetic assembly.
  • compositions of the assembly according to the invention may be in any galenical form normally used in the cosmetic or dermatological fields, and compatible with the characteristics of said compositions.
  • the first composition consists of polymer-H2O2 complex, preferably in the form of a powder, to be mixed with the second composition before application.
  • the second composition comprises at least one activator and a cosmetically or dermatologically acceptable carrier.
  • the first composition comprises at least one polymer-H 2 ⁇ 2 complex and a cosmetically or dermatologically acceptable vehicle, which is mixed with the second composition.
  • the second composition in this variant may consist of one or more activators, advantageously in powder form.
  • the first composition comprises at least one polymer-H 2 ⁇ 2 complex and a cosmetically or dermatologically acceptable anhydrous vehicle, which is mixed with the second composition comprising at least one activator and a vehicle that is acceptable on the plane.
  • cosmetic or dermatological said vehicle of the second composition being anhydrous or aqueous.
  • compositions of the cosmetic assembly of the invention may be more or less fluid and have the appearance of a white or colored cream, an ointment, a milk, a lotion, a serum, a paste, or a mousse.
  • They can optionally be applied to the skin in the form of an aerosol. They can also be in solid form, and for example in the form of a stick. They can be used as a care product and / or as a makeup product.
  • the two compositions of the cosmetic assembly can be presented in various forms of cosmetic products, with various containers, compartments, closure elements, applicators, packaging, etc.
  • the invention further relates to a packaging assembly comprising: i. a first compartment containing a first composition containing a polymer-H 2 ⁇ 2 complex, ii. a second compartment containing a second composition containing at least one activator promoting the decomposition of H 2 O 2 , said second compartment being sealed from the first, and iii. means for allowing the contacting, in particular extemporaneous, of the two compositions.
  • the first and second composition of the packaging assembly are as defined above.
  • Such a set advantageously allows the extemporaneous contact of its two compositions, separately packaged respectively in the first and second compartments forming said assembly.
  • This set may also be provided with means allowing the communication of the first and second compartments and therefore of their respective contents.
  • the assembly is also advantageously provided with a means conducive to the distribution of the mixture of the two compositions. More specifically, the first and second compositions for the implementation of the invention are packaged separately inside two compartments, formed either by two separate containers or inside a unitary device.
  • the container (s) may be in any suitable form. It may be in particular in the form of a bottle, a tube, a jar, a case, a box, a bag or a case.
  • the closure element of the container may be in the form of a removable cap, a lid, a lid, a tearable strip, or a capsule, in particular of the type comprising a body attached to the container and an articulated cap on the body. It can also be in the form of an element ensuring the selective closure of the container, including a pump, a valve, or a valve.
  • the container may be associated with an applicator.
  • the applicator may be in the form of a brush, as described for example in patent FR 2 722 380.
  • the applicator may be in the form of a block of foam or elastomer, a felt, or 'a spatula.
  • the applicator may be free (puff or sponge) or integral with a rod carried by the closure member, as described for example in US Patent 5,492,426.
  • the applicator may be integral with the container, as described for example in the patent FR 2 761 959.
  • compositions can be contained directly in the container, or indirectly.
  • the compositions may be placed on an impregnated support, in particular in the form of a wipe or a buffer, and placed (individually or several) in a box or in a bag.
  • an impregnated support in particular in the form of a wipe or a buffer
  • Such a support incorporating the product is described for example in the application WO 01/03538.
  • the closure member may be coupled to the container by screwing.
  • the coupling between the closure element and the container is other than by screwing, in particular via a bayonet mechanism, snap-fastening, clamping, welding, gluing, or magnetic attraction.
  • mapping is meant in particular any system involving the crossing of a bead or a bead of material by elastic deformation of a portion, in particular of the closure element, then by return to the position not elastically constrained of said portion after crossing the bead or cord.
  • the container may be at least partly made of thermoplastic material.
  • thermoplastic materials include polypropylene or polyethylene.
  • the container is made of non-thermoplastic material, in particular glass or metal (or alloy).
  • the container may have rigid walls or deformable walls, in particular in the form of a tube or a tube flask.
  • the container may include means for causing or facilitating the dispensing of the composition.
  • the container may have deformable walls so as to cause the composition to exit in response to an overpressure inside the container, which excess pressure is caused by elastic (or non-elastic) crushing of the walls of the container. .
  • the container may consist of a housing with a bottom defining at least one housing containing the composition, and a cover, in particular articulated on the bottom, and adapted to cover at least part of said bottom.
  • a housing is described for example in patent application WO 03/018423 or in patent FR 2 791 042.
  • the container may be equipped with a wiper arranged in the vicinity of the opening of the container. Such a wiper makes it possible to wipe the applicator and possibly the rod which it can be secured. Such a wiper is described, for example, in patent FR 2 792 618.
  • the container is in the form of a bottle or a flexible bag.
  • unitary device is meant a device by which the two compartments or containers are integral with each other.
  • a device can be obtained by a method of molding in one piece of the two compartments, in particular a thermoplastic material. It can also result from any form of assembly, especially by gluing, welding, or other snap.
  • the two containers are distinct independent of one another.
  • Such containers may be in various forms. This may include tubes, bottles or cans.
  • One and / or the other of the containers may be surmounted by a manually operated pump surmounted by a push button for the actuation of the pump and the distribution of the composition via at least one dispensing orifice.
  • one and / or the other of the containers are pressurized, in particular by means of a propellant, in particular a propellant.
  • the (or) container (s) is (are) equipped with a valve surmounted by a push button equipped with a nozzle or other means of diffusion for the distribution of the product.
  • the propellant may be in admixture with at least one of the compositions to be dispensed or separated, in particular via a piston capable of sliding inside the container, or via the flexible walls of a pocket inside which is arranged the composition.
  • the containers may be made of various materials: plastic, glass, or metal.
  • the two compositions are contained within a unitary device.
  • the first and second compositions of the invention are packaged inside two compartments (51, 52) delimited by a unitary device (1) of the pump-bottle type as represented in FIG. US 6,672,483.
  • each of the compartments is equipped with a pump (41, 42), preferably manually actuated, connected to at least one actuating and dispensing means (3) for delivering, separately or in a mixture, said first and second compositions.
  • a pump 41, 42
  • actuating and dispensing means (3) for delivering, separately or in a mixture, said first and second compositions.
  • the actuating and dispensing means (3) is common to both pumps.
  • each of the compartments is pressurized, in particular by means of a propellant, and equipped with a valve connected to at least one actuating and dispensing means making it possible to deliver, separately or as a mixture, said compositions.
  • actuating and dispensing means is common to both valves.
  • the packaging device shown in FIG. 1 of US Pat. No. 6,672,483 consists of two compartments 51, 52 arranged side by side and formed inside a molded piece 5 obtained from a thermoplastic material.
  • Each of the containers 51, 52 has a neck 53 defining an opening. AT the inside of the neck of each of the containers is mounted a pump 41, 42, which can be with or without air intake.
  • the part 5 delimiting the two compartments 51, 52 is disposed inside a covering element 10.
  • a pump rod 21a, 22a, of each of the pumps 41, 42 is forced into a corresponding conduit provided in a single push button 3 configured to allow simultaneous actuation of the two pumps, in response at a pressure exerted axially on a surface 35 of the push button 3.
  • the pushbutton ducts connected to each of the pumps open onto two orifices 31a, 32a disposed in the vicinity of each other on an outer surface of the push button 3.
  • the two compositions come out separately either on the finger of the user, or on a tampon or cotton applicator.
  • the mixture of the two compositions is then made during application to the surface to be treated.
  • devices as described in US 5,833,121, US 4,773,562 and US 6,672,483 may be used.
  • the two compartments are formed inside a single flexible bag, and separated by a weak breaking or welding zone which can be broken at the moment of use, in particular in response to a pressure exercised at a specific point in the bag, at one of the two compartments.
  • a weak breaking or welding zone which can be broken at the moment of use, in particular in response to a pressure exercised at a specific point in the bag, at one of the two compartments.
  • Examples of flexible bags with two compartments usable in the present invention are described in particular in patent applications JP2000272674, WO99 / 51509, EP243730 or FR 2 876 356.
  • the compartments may be made by means of at least one sheet, for example a sheet of a flexible thermoplastic material; and linked to each other by a common border of low welding type. According to a mode In particular, the common edge of the low welding type is over the entire width of the bag, or on a smaller width forming a sealed channel between the two bags.
  • the bag is made with films impermeable to oxygen in the air, such as aluminum.
  • Water-impermeable films can also be used in the form of a polyethylene terephthalate / silicone / polyethylene trilayer (PET / SiOx / PE).
  • the two compartments are formed of two concentric compartments formed inside a tube, and are surmounted by a pump without air intake equipped with a push button to one or two dispensing orifices. Inside the tube is provided a piston which goes up towards the pump as the compositions are taken from the inside of the containers.
  • a pump without air intake equipped with a push button to one or two dispensing orifices.
  • a piston which goes up towards the pump as the compositions are taken from the inside of the containers.
  • Still other devices can be used for the implementation of the present invention, the essential being that they can allow the separate conditioning of the two compositions of the cosmetic assembly of the present invention and their distribution separately or in combination. mixed.
  • compositions of the cosmetic assembly according to the invention after having mixed them, can constitute a mask, a cream for cleaning, protection, treatment or care for the face, for the hands, for the feet, or for the body (for example, day creams, night creams, make-up removing creams, foundation creams, sunscreen creams); cleansing milk; a lotion, gel or mousse for the care of the skin, such as a cleaning lotion.
  • the cosmetic assembly according to the invention has in particular a lightening effect and a positive effect on the radiance of the complexion, it makes it possible to fade the age spots and / or has a positive effect on the appearance of oily skin, in particular by promoting the dullness of the skin.
  • the cosmetic assembly according to the invention also makes it possible to lighten the skin, to promote the radiance of the complexion, to homogenize the complexion, to diminish the spots, in particular the age spots, or to improve the makeup hold.
  • the invention relates to a cosmetic method for improving the appearance of the skin, comprising applying to the skin of the cosmetic assembly according to the invention.
  • the invention relates to a method for reducing skin imperfections, spots and / or acne lesions, for smoothing the cutaneous relief, to make the pores less apparent (in particular by reducing the size of the pores) , making microrelief and / or less visible wrinkles, to restore radiance to the skin, especially dull, ashy or dark skin, to improve the appearance of oily skin, especially by promoting the dullness of the skin, to lighten the skin, to promote the radiance of the complexion, to homogenize the complexion, to diminish the spots, in particular the spots of old age or due to the sun, and / or to improve the makeup hold, including the application on the skin of the skin, together according to the invention.
  • Skin blemishes will also be reduced by reducing the number of pimples and blackheads and / or reducing the brightness of the skin.
  • the assembly according to the invention can be applied in any way that can be envisaged by those skilled in the art in a skin care process.
  • compositions of said assembly before application to the skin.
  • properties of the polymer contained in the first composition in particular PVP, allow an application easy assembly of the invention after mixing the compositions constituting it, the mixture does not flow, or little, on the skin after application.
  • PVP polymer contained in the first composition
  • the first composition of the assembly according to the invention containing the polymer-H 2 ⁇ 2 complex, preferably a PVP-H 2 O 2 complex, is first applied to the skin. . Then, the second composition containing the H 2 O 2 decomposition promoting activator is applied to the skin, at least in the area where the first composition has been applied.
  • the second composition containing the activator defined above is first applied, then the first composition containing the polymer-H 2 O 2 complex is applied to the skin, at least in the area where the second composition containing the activator was applied.
  • said method according to the invention further comprises a rinsing step after application to the skin or its integuments of the cosmetic assembly.
  • the cosmetic process according to the invention comprises
  • the mixture of the first and second compositions of the cosmetic assembly according to the invention with water comprising a PVP-H 2 O 2 complex and a glycolic carrier comprising PEG-8
  • the second composition being consisting of a zeolite in powder form
  • the invention also relates to the cosmetic use of the cosmetic assembly as described above, to improve the appearance of the skin, and more specifically to reduce skin imperfections, blemishes and / or acne lesions, to smooth the cutaneous relief, to make the pores less apparent (in particular by reducing the size of the pores), by reducing the number of pimples and blackheads, microrelief and / or less visible wrinkles, to restore radiance to the skin, especially dull, ashy or dark skin to improve the appearance of oily skin, in particular by promoting the dullness of the skin or by decreasing the brightness of the skin, to lighten the skin, to promote the radiance of the complexion, to homogenize the complexion, to reduce stains, especially age spots or due to the sun, and / or improve the strength of makeup, including the application on the skin of the cosmetic assembly according to the invention as described above.
  • the cosmetic assembly according to the invention also has the advantage of being able to allow the lightening of the integuments, and in particular the hair or the hairs or down, on the forearms, on the face, in particular at the level of the mustache, etc. .
  • the subject of the invention is also a cosmetic process for the care of oily skin, in particular with a view to mattifying the skin, comprising the topical application thereto of the cosmetic assembly as described above.
  • said cosmetic process for the care of oily skin further comprises a rinsing step after application to the skin of the compositions of the cosmetic assembly as described above.
  • the cosmetic assembly is applied to areas of the face or forehead having a gloss.
  • the skin may be wetted, prior to the application of the cosmetic assembly according to the invention.
  • the methods according to the invention are more particularly intended for persons having a skin of phototype III to VI.
  • the mixture of the compositions of the cosmetic assembly is rinsed, after a pause period advantageously between 5 and 30 minutes, preferably after a pause time of less than 20 minutes, so even more preferred for a time of about 15 minutes.
  • the cosmetic unit can be used as a mask, preferably with a weekly, bi-weekly or monthly application frequency. It can also be used as a cure with, for example, a daily application or twice daily for one or two weeks.
  • the invention further relates to an assembly as described above, as a product for the treatment of acne.
  • the invention therefore also relates to the use of an assembly as described above, for the manufacture of a product for the treatment of acne.
  • the assembly according to the invention is used as an antibacterial active agent, to reduce the amount of acne-causing germs present on the skin, or to limit their development, and in particular to reduce the amount of acne. P. Acnes, or to limit the development of any of these germs.
  • the assembly according to the invention can thus be used in a subject with acne.
  • the assembly according to the invention can also be used to delay or slow progression or prevent further progression of acne.
  • the assembly according to the invention may finally be administered to a person not having acne, but whose skin, including oily skin, is acne prone.
  • the quantity of the active ingredients present in the compositions of the assembly according to the invention will advantageously be included in the ranges described. previously, to achieve the desired effect.
  • those skilled in the art are able to establish the effective amount of said active agents in the assembly according to the invention, and will ensure that the ingredients and / or additional active ingredients introduced into the first and second composition described above. above does not alter the advantageous effects of the assembly according to the invention on the decay of the germs of acne.
  • the invention relates to a dermatological treatment method for acne, comprising the topical administration of the assembly according to the invention described above, after mixing the first and second compositions, as described hereinabove. above, to a person in need.
  • composition may be applied in any way that can be envisaged by those skilled in the art, and in particular according to the modalities described above for the cosmetic processes according to the invention.
  • FIG. 1 is a graph showing the activation of a polymer-H 2 O 2 complex. This figure shows the ratio between the dissolved oxygen level at a time t, relative to the oxygen level at t 0 , as a function of time.
  • Example 1 Lightening activity measured in vitro The lightening activity of a commercial PVP-H2O2 complex, ISP Peroxydone K-30 ® , is measured in various solvents in a dye bleaching test.
  • the dye solution or "solution X” is LCF (Sensant) brilliant blue FC disodium salt solution (Cl: 42090).
  • the dye solution is prepared as follows: 15 mg of dye powder are solubilized in 50 ml of borate buffer pH 10.7 and then diluted again to 1/50 th .
  • the pH is adjusted to 10.7 with addition of a sodium hydroxide solution (approximately 250 ml of 0.1 N NaOH supplemented to 1 liter).
  • PVP-H2O2 has the same activity as free hydrogen peroxide, at an equivalent rate of H2O2, regardless of the formulation medium and is particularly effective in ethanol and PEG-8.
  • the results obtained in butylene glycol are also satisfactory. These solvents will be preferred to glycerine.
  • the preparations P1 and P2 indicated in the table below are mixed before application to the skin.
  • 20g of formula in thick layer is applied on the face avoiding the contour of the eyes.
  • the skin may be optionally moistened before application of the mixture.
  • the product is left for 10 minutes then rinsed.
  • Peroxidone K-3CP is a PVP-H 2 O 2 complex marketed by ISP; the calcium peroxide used is marketed by SPCH.
  • the two products A and B indicated in the table below were tested on 40 people with acne-prone fatty skin (presence of pimples / blackheads) with dilated pores according to a monocentric protocol, randomized double-blind in hemi-face .
  • Peroxidone K-30 is a PVP-H 2 O 2 complex marketed by ISP which contains 20%
  • Preparation 1 is obtained by dispersion of the peroxidone K-30 ® in PEG-8 with a pale blade until a transparent gel is obtained.
  • Preparation 2 is obtained by Rayneri dispersion of the zeolite powder after swelling the carbomer in a water / sodium hydroxide mixture and introducing the butylene glycol.
  • the measured values are the scoring (size) of the pores (Dermascore) and the surface of the porphyrins (activity marker of the bacterium Propionobacterium Acnes).
  • Product A is prepared as in Example 3 above and product C is identical to Product A with the exception of sodium hydroxide and zeolite in preparation P2.
  • Peroxidone K-30 is a PVP-H 2 O 2 complex marketed by ISP which contains 20%
  • Dissolved oxygen is assayed with oximeter 782 [Strath kelvin Instruments] connected to a microcathode oxygen electrode (Model 1302).
  • Preparation for Formula A 10% P1 is diluted in water. Similarly for P2. 500 .mu.l of each diluted solution are introduced into an enclosure with temperature controlled, the Mitocell MT200 [Strath kelvin Instruments] in which the electrode is located. The dissolved oxygen is measured after 10 minutes of contact in ⁇ g of dissolved oxygen / ml. The same operation is performed for Product C.
  • the results obtained are represented in FIG. 1, in the form of a ratio between the oxygen concentration at the measurement time (t), and the dissolved oxygen concentration measured at the beginning of the experiment (t 0 ), in function of time.

Abstract

The invention relates to a cosmetic assembly for improving the appearance of the skin, comprising a first anhydrous composition comprising a polymer/H2O2 complex, said polymer having hydrogen bond acceptor groups capable of forming a non-covalent chemical bond with the hydrogen peroxide, and a second composition comprising an activator that promotes the decomposition of H2O2.

Description

Compositions à base de complexes polymère-peroxyde d'hydrogène et leurs utilisations Compositions based on polymer-hydrogen peroxide complexes and their uses
L'invention concerne un ensemble cosmétique comprenant une première composition anhydre comprenant un complexe polymère-H2θ2, et une deuxième composition comprenant un activateur favorisant la décomposition de H2O2.The invention relates to a cosmetic assembly comprising a first anhydrous composition comprising a polymer-H 2 O 2 complex, and a second composition comprising an activator promoting the decomposition of H 2 O 2 .
Elle a également trait à l'utilisation de cet ensemble cosmétique dans le domaine de la cosmétique ou de la dermatologie ou à un procédé cosmétique comprenant l'application de cet ensemble sur la peau.It also relates to the use of this cosmetic set in the field of cosmetics or dermatology or to a cosmetic process comprising the application of this set to the skin.
Les consommateurs sont à la recherche de produits de soin de la peau ayant une efficacité mesurable à court terme avec une amélioration perceptible et durable de l'aspect de la peau. En particulier, les effets recherchés sont un lissage du relief cutané, des pores moins apparents, et/ou un microrelief et des rides moins visibles, une atténuation des taches, un teint plus éclatant, en particulier pour les peaux ternes ou les peaux foncées, une peau plus nette, moins brillante, en particulier pour les peaux grasses. Ces résultats peuvent être obtenus avec des produits de soin classiques sur des temps de traitement relativement longs (supérieurs à 3 mois). D'autres traitements, comme les peelings chimiques, permettent également d'améliorer l'aspect de la peau de façon durable et perceptible, après plusieurs séances d'application. Ces traitements s'accompagnent généralement de désagréments importants comme par exemple une desquamation importante quelques jours après une séance d'application.Consumers are looking for skincare products with measurable short-term effectiveness with a noticeable and lasting improvement in the appearance of the skin. In particular, the desired effects are a smoothing of the cutaneous relief, less apparent pores, and / or a microrelief and less visible wrinkles, a reduction of the spots, a more radiant complexion, in particular for the dull skins or the dark skins, a sharper, less shiny skin, especially for oily skin. These results can be obtained with conventional care products over relatively long treatment times (greater than 3 months). Other treatments, such as chemical peels, also improve the appearance of the skin durably and noticeable after several application sessions. These treatments are generally accompanied by significant inconveniences, such as large desquamation a few days after an application session.
La peau grasse se caractérise par une peau luisante, parfois d'aspect huileux, épaisse, aux pores pilosébacés dilatés. L'hypersécrétion sébacée est le plus souvent liée à une hyperandrogénie due soit à une hyperproduction d'androgènes par une glande endocrine, soit à une hyperproduction périphérique au niveau de la glande sébacée à partir des androgènes et/ou proandrogènes environnants. Une peau grasse à tendance acnéique présente généralement des imperfections cutanées, des pores dilatés, une texture inhomogène de la peau et des rougeurs.Oily skin is characterized by shiny skin, sometimes oily in appearance, thick, with enlarged pilosebaceous pores. Sebaceous hypersecretion is most often linked to hyperandrogenism due either to an androgen hyperproduction by an endocrine gland, or to peripheral hyperproduction of the sebaceous gland from surrounding androgens and / or proandrogens. Oily skin with a tendency to acne usually has cutaneous imperfections, dilated pores, an inhomogeneous texture of the skin and redness.
Cependant, les compositions connues ne permettent pas d'obtenir rapidement une amélioration perceptible et durable de l'aspect de la peau. De plus, il serait souhaitable de disposer de soins de la peau qui soient plus stables et mieux tolérés que les compositions connues de l'art antérieur.However, the known compositions do not make it possible to obtain rapidly a perceptible and lasting improvement in the appearance of the skin. In addition, it would be desirable to have skin care that is more stable and better tolerated than the known compositions of the prior art.
Des formulations comprenant des complexes polyvinylpyrrolidone-H2θ2 ont été proposées pour le traitement de l'acné. Ainsi, le brevet US 5 122 370 (ISP) décrit l'utilisation de complexes polyvinylpyrrolidone-H2θ2 dispersés dans un milieu anhydre pour le traitement de l'acné. Toutefois, les formulations proposées ne sont pas satisfaisantes pour un usage cosmétique tel qu'envisagé dans la présente invention.Formulations comprising polyvinylpyrrolidone-H 2 O 2 complexes have been proposed for the treatment of acne. Thus, US Pat. No. 5,122,370 (ISP) describes the use of polyvinylpyrrolidone-H 2 O 2 complexes dispersed in an anhydrous medium for the treatment of acne. However, the formulations proposed are not satisfactory for a cosmetic use as envisaged in the present invention.
Il subsiste donc le besoin de proposer de tels traitements cosmétiques pour l'amélioration perceptible et durable de l'aspect de la peau, en particulier en vue d'obtenir un lissage du relief cutané, des pores moins apparents, et/ou un microrelief et des rides moins visibles, une atténuation des taches, un teint plus éclatant, en particulier pour les peaux ternes ou les peaux foncées et une peau plus nette, moins brillante, en particulier pour les peaux grasses.There is therefore still a need to propose such cosmetic treatments for the perceptible and lasting improvement in the appearance of the skin, in particular with a view to obtaining a smoothing of the cutaneous relief, less apparent pores, and / or a microrelief and less noticeable wrinkles, fading of spots, a brighter complexion, especially for dull or dark skin and a clearer, less shiny skin, especially for oily skin.
La demanderesse a pu montrer de manière surprenante et inattendue qu'un ensemble cosmétique tel que défini ci-dessous permet de remplir les besoins spécifiés ci-dessus.The Applicant has been able to show, surprisingly and unexpectedly, that a cosmetic set as defined below makes it possible to fulfill the needs specified above.
Les compositions de l'ensemble cosmétique élaboré par la demanderesse sont stables, et particulièrement efficaces pour l'amélioration de l'aspect de la peau. De plus, le soin proposé avec l'ensemble cosmétique selon la présente invention est mieux toléré par la peau que les soins cosmétiques disponibles. L'invention a donc pour objet un ensemble cosmétique comprenant :The compositions of the cosmetic assembly developed by the Applicant are stable, and particularly effective for improving the appearance of the skin. In addition, the care proposed with the cosmetic set according to the present invention is better tolerated by the skin than the cosmetic care available. The subject of the invention is therefore a cosmetic assembly comprising:
- une première composition anhydre comprenant au moins un complexe polymère-H2θ2, ledit polymère présentant des groupes accepteurs de liaison hydrogène aptes à former une liaison chimique non covalente avec le peroxyde d'hydrogène; eta first anhydrous composition comprising at least one polymer-H 2 O 2 complex, said polymer having hydrogen bond acceptor groups capable of forming a non-covalent chemical bond with hydrogen peroxide; and
- une deuxième composition comprenant au moins un activateur favorisant la décomposition de H2O2.a second composition comprising at least one activator promoting the decomposition of H 2 O 2 .
L'utilisation de l'ensemble cosmétique selon l'invention permet d'améliorer l'aspect de la peau, en particulier en atténuant les imperfections de la peau, les taches et les lésions d'acné, en lissant le relief cutané, en rendant les pores moins apparents (notamment par réduction de la taille des pores), en réduisant le nombre de boutons et points noirs, en rendant le microrelief et les rides moins visibles, en redonnant de l'éclat aux peaux, en particulier les peaux ternes, cendrées ou foncées, et/ou en améliorant l'aspect des peaux grasses, notamment en favorisant la matité de la peau ou en diminuant la brillance de la peau. L'ensemble cosmétique selon l'invention permet également d'éclaircir la peau, favoriser l'éclat du teint, homogénéiser le teint, diminuer les taches, notamment les taches de vieillesse ou les taches dues au soleil, ou améliorer la tenue du maquillage.The use of the cosmetic assembly according to the invention makes it possible to improve the appearance of the skin, in particular by attenuating the skin imperfections, the spots and the acne lesions, by smoothing the cutaneous relief, making the less visible pores (in particular by reducing the size of the pores), by reducing the number of pimples and blackheads, by making the microrelief and the wrinkles less visible, by restoring radiance to the skin, in particular dull skin, ash or dark, and / or improving the appearance of oily skin, especially by promoting the dullness of the skin or by decreasing the shine of the skin. The cosmetic assembly according to the invention also makes it possible to lighten the skin, to promote the radiance of the complexion, to homogenize the complexion, to diminish the spots, in particular the age spots or the spots due to the sun, or to improve the makeup hold.
L'invention a donc pour objet un procédé cosmétique pour améliorer l'aspect de la peau, et en particulier pour donner au moins un des effets sur la peau mentionnés ci-dessus, comprenant l'application sur la peau de l'ensemble cosmétique selon l'invention, après mélange des compositions constituant ledit ensemble.The subject of the invention is therefore a cosmetic process for improving the appearance of the skin, and in particular for giving at least one of the effects on the skin mentioned above, comprising the application on the skin of the cosmetic assembly according to the invention, after mixing the compositions constituting said set.
L'invention a aussi pour objet un procédé cosmétique de soin de la peau grasse, en particulier en vue de matifier la peau, comprenant l'application topique sur celle-ci, de l'ensemble cosmétique tel que décrit précédemment, après mélange des compositions constituant ledit ensemble. Les compositions constituant l'ensemble cosmétique selon l'invention vont maintenant être décrites en détail.The subject of the invention is also a cosmetic process for the care of oily skin, in particular with a view to mattifying the skin, comprising the topical application thereto of the cosmetic assembly as described above, after mixing the compositions. constituting said assembly. The compositions constituting the cosmetic assembly according to the invention will now be described in detail.
La première composition de l'ensemble cosmétique selon l'invention est donc une composition anhydre qui comprend au moins un complexe polymère-H2θ2.The first composition of the cosmetic assembly according to the invention is therefore an anhydrous composition which comprises at least one polymer-H 2 θ 2 complex.
Le terme « complexe polymère-H2θ2 », dans le cadre de la présente invention, désigne un complexe entre un polymère tel que défini ci-dessous et du peroxyde d'hydrogène. Le complexe peut notamment être formé avant son incorporation dans la première composition selon l'invention. Dans ledit complexe, le polymère et le peroxyde d'hydrogène sont liés de manière non- covalente, notamment par des liaisons hydrogène.The term "polymer complex-H 2 O 2 ", in the context of the present invention, denotes a complex between a polymer as defined below and hydrogen peroxide. The complex may in particular be formed before incorporation into the first composition according to the invention. In said complex, the polymer and hydrogen peroxide are non-covalently bonded, in particular by hydrogen bonds.
On désigne par « polymère », dans le cadre de la présente invention, tout polymère présentant des groupes accepteurs de liaison hydrogène aptes à former une liaison chimique non covalente avec le peroxyde d'hydrogène. Les groupes accepteurs de liaison hydrogène sont, dans la structure linéaire (ou chaîne principale linéaire) dudit polymère, avantageusement séparés par une distance inférieure ou égale à 5 atomes de carbone, de préférence inférieure ou égale à 3 atomes de carbone, de sorte à former des liaisons hydrogène stables avec le peroxyde d'hydrogène. De préférence, des groupes accepteurs de liaison hydrogène forment des liaisons chimiques non covalentes avec le peroxyde d'hydrogène dans un rapport moléculaire de 1/1 , de 2/1 ou un mélange de ces rapports. Les groupes accepteurs de liaison hydrogène font partie des connaissances générales dans le domaine de la chimie. On peut citer à ce titre les hétéroatomes porteurs de doublet(s) libre(s) comme les atomes d'oxygène, ou d'azote.For the purposes of the present invention, the term "polymer" denotes any polymer having hydrogen bond acceptor groups capable of forming a non-covalent chemical bond with hydrogen peroxide. The hydrogen bond acceptor groups are, in the linear structure (or linear main chain) of said polymer, advantageously separated by a distance less than or equal to 5 carbon atoms, preferably less than or equal to 3 carbon atoms, so as to form stable hydrogen bonds with hydrogen peroxide. Preferably, hydrogen bond acceptor groups form non-covalent chemical bonds with hydrogen peroxide in a molecular ratio of 1: 1, 2: 1 or a mixture of these ratios. Hydrogen bonding acceptor groups are part of the general knowledge in the field of chemistry. In this respect, mention may be made of heteroatoms carrying free doublet (s) such as oxygen or nitrogen atoms.
Les groupes accepteurs de liaison hydrogène sont de préférence des groupes N-C=O ou N-C=N, qui peuvent être intégrés dans la structure linéaire dudit polymère ou portés par une chaîne latérale carbonée du polymère, par exemple une chaîne linéaire ou un cycle, de préférence un cycle. De préférence, le polymère est apte à former un film continu sur la peau, présentant ainsi un caractère filmogène.The hydrogen bond acceptor groups are preferably NC = O or NC = N groups, which may be integrated in the linear structure of said polymer or carried by a carbon side chain of the polymer, for example a linear chain or a ring, preferably a cycle. Preferably, the polymer is capable of forming a continuous film on the skin, thus exhibiting a film-forming character.
Parmi les polymères utilisables dans la première composition de l'ensemble cosmétique selon l'invention, on préfère un polymère à base de motifs N- vinyliques hétérocycliques.Among the polymers that can be used in the first composition of the cosmetic assembly according to the invention, a polymer based on heterocyclic N-vinylic units is preferred.
Les polymères à base de motifs N-vinyliques hétérocycliques sont des homo- ou copolymères dérivant de monomères N-vinyliques hétérocycliques, de préférence comprenant des monomères N-vinyliques hétérocycliques présentant de 3 à 7 atomes dans le noyau hétérocyclique, incluant un carbonyl (C=O) et un atome d'azote et contenant un groupe vinyle. De préférence, le noyau contient 5 ou 6 atomes et comprend des hétéroatomes tels que le soufre ou l'oxygène, et peut être substitué ou non. De préférence, les monomères N- vinyliques hétérocycliques sont le N-vinylcaprolactame, N-vinyl-pyrrolidone ou N-vinylimidazole ou leurs mélanges. Les comonomères envisageables peuvent être l'acétate de vinyle, acétate d'isopropényle, laurate de vinyle, benzoate de vinyle, éther méthyl-vinylique, 2-méthylvinylimidazole, N-vinylpiperidone, N- vinyl-2-oxazolidone, acrylate de méthyle, acrylate d'éthyle, styrène ou un monomère vinylique modifié cationiquement. Les copolymères appropriés contiennent, par exemple, de 30 à 99% en poids de monomères N-vinyliques et de 1 à 70% en poids d'un comonomère par rapport au poids total du polymère. De manière avantageuse, le polymère est le poly-N-vinyl-poly-2-pyrrolidone ou un de ses copolymères. Le poly-N-vinyl-poly-2-pyrrolidone est aussi communément appelé polyvinylpyrrolidone ou "PVP". Les polymères incluent des polymères PVP solubles ou non solubles, réticulés ou non. Les copolymères contenant du PVP peuvent dériver de vinylpyrrolidone/vinyl acétate (aussi connu sous le nom Copolyvidone, Copolyvidonum ou VP-VAc) ou de vinylpyrrolidone/diméthylamino-éthylmethacrylate.The polymers based on heterocyclic N-vinyl units are homo- or copolymers derived from heterocyclic N-vinyl monomers, preferably comprising heterocyclic N-vinyl monomers having from 3 to 7 atoms in the heterocyclic ring, including a carbonyl (C = O) and a nitrogen atom and containing a vinyl group. Preferably, the ring contains 5 or 6 atoms and includes heteroatoms such as sulfur or oxygen, and may be substituted or unsubstituted. Preferably, the heterocyclic N-vinyl monomers are N-vinylcaprolactam, N-vinylpyrrolidone or N-vinylimidazole or mixtures thereof. Possible comonomers may be vinyl acetate, isopropenyl acetate, vinyl laurate, vinyl benzoate, methyl vinyl ether, 2-methyl vinyl imidazole, N-vinylpiperidone, N-vinyl-2-oxazolidone, methyl acrylate, acrylate of ethyl, styrene or a cationically modified vinyl monomer. Suitable copolymers contain, for example, from 30 to 99% by weight of N-vinyl monomers and from 1 to 70% by weight of a comonomer based on the total weight of the polymer. Advantageously, the polymer is poly-N-vinyl-poly-2-pyrrolidone or a copolymer thereof. Poly-N-vinyl-poly-2-pyrrolidone is also commonly known as polyvinylpyrrolidone or "PVP". The polymers include soluble or insoluble PVP polymers, crosslinked or otherwise. The PVP-containing copolymers can be derived from vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acetate (also known as Copolyvidone, Copolyvidonum or VP-VAc) or vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminoethylmethacrylate.
Le terme « complexe polyvinylpyrrolidone-H2θ2 » ou « PVP-H2O2, dans le cadre de la présente invention, désigne un complexe entre un polyvinylpyrrolidone tel que défini ci-dessus et du peroxyde d'hydrogène. Les complexes PVP-H2O2 ont pour avantage leurs propriétés filmogènes et le fait qu'ils présentent la même activité que le peroxyde d'hydrogène libre, à taux équivalent de H2O2, quel que soit le milieu de formulation. Ils permettent une application facile, une bonne tenue du produit sur le visage en évitant notamment qu'il coule dans les yeux.The term "polyvinylpyrrolidone-H 2 O 2 complex" or "PVP-H 2 O 2 , in the context of the present invention, denotes a complex between a polyvinylpyrrolidone as defined above and hydrogen peroxide. The PVP-H2O2 complexes have the advantage of their film-forming properties and the fact that they exhibit the same activity as free hydrogen peroxide, at an equivalent rate of H2O2, whatever the formulation medium. They allow easy application, a good hold of the product on the face, especially avoiding it running in the eyes.
Les complexes polymères-H2O2 peuvent être produits grâce à des procédures bien connues de l'homme du métier.The polymer-H 2 O 2 complexes may be produced by procedures well known to those skilled in the art.
En particulier, on pourra choisir l'une des méthodes décrites dans les brevets US 5 077 047 (ISP), US 5 122 370 (ISP), ou US 5 674 436 (BASF), et dans les références citées dans ces brevets. Alternativement, on choisira des complexes polymères-H2θ2 disponibles dans le commerce. On peut citer à ce titre les produits commercialisés par ISP sous la marque Peroxydone®, notamment les produits Peroxydone® K-30 et K-90, de préférence la Peroxydone® K-30. Les produits Peroxydone® K-30 et K-90 sont des homopolymères linéaires de N- vinyl-pyrrolidone de poids moléculaire 58 000 et 1 300 000, respectivement, complexés au peroxyde d'hydrogène présent en une quantité de 17 à 20% en poids par rapport au poids total du complexe.In particular, one of the methods described in US Pat. Nos. 5,077,047 (ISP), US Pat. No. 5,122,370 (ISP), or US Pat. No. 5,674,436 (BASF) may be chosen, and in the references cited in these patents. Alternatively, commercially available polymer-H 2 θ 2 complexes will be selected. These include the products marketed by ISP under the trade name Peroxydone®, in particular the products Peroxydone® K-30 and K-90, preferably Peroxydone® K-30. Peroxydone® K-30 and K-90 are linear homopolymers of N-vinylpyrrolidone of molecular weight 58,000 and 1,300,000, respectively, complexed with hydrogen peroxide present in an amount of 17 to 20% by weight. relative to the total weight of the complex.
La quantité de peroxyde d'hydrogène dans le complexe décrit ci-dessus peut être exprimée en pourcentage en poids de peroxyde d'hydrogène par rapport au poids total dudit complexe.The amount of hydrogen peroxide in the complex described above can be expressed as a percentage by weight of hydrogen peroxide with respect to the total weight of said complex.
L'indice de peroxyde (IP) est la quantité de produit (le complexe polymère-H2O2 contenant le peroxyde d'hydrogène) présent dans l'échantillon, exprimée en milliéquivalents d'oxygène actif par kilogramme, oxydant l'iodure de potassium dans les conditions opératoires définies par la norme ISO 3960 et AFNOR T 60- 220.The peroxide index (PI) is the amount of product (the polymer-H 2 O 2 complex containing the hydrogen peroxide) present in the sample, expressed in milliequivalents of active oxygen per kilogram, oxidizing the iodide of potassium under the operating conditions defined by ISO 3960 and AFNOR T 60-220.
Le pourcentage en poids de H2O2 dans le complexe correspond à :The percentage by weight of H 2 O 2 in the complex corresponds to:
IP de l'association contenant le peroxyde / 1000/ 10 x PM, sachant que : PM= poids moléculaire de H2O2 et IP= indice de peroxyde pour une matière première (en particulier le complexe polymère-H2θ2 contenant le peroxyde d'hydrogène) calculé dans les conditions opératoires définies par la norme ISO 3960 et AFNOR T 60-220.IP of the combination containing peroxide / 1000/10 x PM, knowing that: PM = molecular weight of H 2 O 2 and IP = peroxide index for a raw material (in particular the polymer complex-H 2 O 2 containing hydrogen peroxide) calculated under the operating conditions defined by the ISO 3960 and AFNOR T 60-220 standard.
A titre d'exemple, la quantité de peroxyde d'hydrogène dans ledit complexe pourra être notamment comprise entre 0,1 à 30 % en poids, de préférence 10 à 25 % en poids par rapport au poids dudit complexe.For example, the amount of hydrogen peroxide in said complex may be in particular between 0.1 to 30% by weight, preferably 10 to 25% by weight relative to the weight of said complex.
De préférence, la quantité de H2O2 dans la première composition est comprise entre 0,1 et 30 %. De préférence, elle est comprise entre 0,1 et 25 % en poids, de préférence entre 0,1 et 20 % en poids.Preferably, the amount of H 2 O 2 in the first composition is between 0.1 and 30%. Preferably, it is between 0.1 and 25% by weight, preferably between 0.1 and 20% by weight.
Dans un mode préféré de réalisation, la première composition de l'ensemble cosmétique comprend 0,5 à 25 % en poids de peroxyde d'hydrogène par rapport au poids total de ladite première composition.In a preferred embodiment, the first composition of the cosmetic assembly comprises 0.5 to 25% by weight of hydrogen peroxide relative to the total weight of said first composition.
De manière avantageuse, la quantité de complexe décrit ci-dessus est telle que la teneur en H2O2 dans l'ensemble cosmétique (c'est-à-dire la composition résultant du mélange des première et deuxième compositions de l'ensemble cosmétique défini ci-dessus) est comprise entre 0,01 et 7 %, de préférence entre 0,05 et 5 %, de préférence entre 0,1 et 2 % en poids par rapport au poids total de l'ensemble cosmétique. Des teneurs en H2O2 particulières étant 0,05 ; 0,1 ; 0,2 ; 0,3 ; 0,4 ; 0,5 ; 0,6 ; 0,7 ; 0,8 ; 0,9 ; 1 ; 2 ; 3 et 4 % en poids par rapport au poids total de l'ensemble cosmétique.Advantageously, the amount of complex described above is such that the content of H 2 O 2 in the cosmetic set (that is to say the composition resulting from the mixing of the first and second compositions of the cosmetic assembly defined above) is between 0.01 and 7%, preferably between 0.05 and 5%, preferably between 0.1 and 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the cosmetic assembly. Specific H 2 O 2 contents are 0.05; 0.1; 0.2; 0.3; 0.4; 0.5; 0.6; 0.7; 0.8; 0.9; 1; 2; 3 and 4% by weight relative to the total weight of the cosmetic assembly.
La quantité de complexe polymère-H2O2 dans la première composition peut être comprise notamment entre 0,1 et 100 % en poids par rapport au poids total de la première compositionThe amount of polymer-H 2 O 2 complex in the first composition may be in particular between 0.1 and 100% by weight relative to the total weight of the first composition.
Selon un mode particulier, la première composition est constituée du complexe polymère-H2O2, ledit polymère étant de préférence du PVP. Selon ce mode, la première composition est en particulier sous forme de poudre. Selon un autre mode de réalisation, la première composition comprend en particulier entre 0,5 et 85 % en poids du complexe polymère-H2θ2, en particulier entre 1 et 75 %, entre 2 et 55 %, entre 3 et 45 %, de préférence entre 5 % et 40 % et encore plus préférentiellement entre 10 % et 40 % en poids par rapport au poids total de la première composition. Avantageusement, le complexe est présent en une quantité comprise entre 11 et 22 % en poids par rapport au poids total de la première composition.According to one particular embodiment, the first composition consists of the polymer-H 2 O 2 complex, said polymer preferably being PVP. According to this mode, the first composition is in particular in powder form. According to another embodiment, the first composition comprises in particular between 0.5 and 85% by weight of the polymer-H 2 O 2 complex, in particular between 1 and 75%, between 2 and 55%, between 3 and 45%, preferably between 5% and 40% and even more preferably between 10% and 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the first composition. Advantageously, the complex is present in an amount of between 11 and 22% by weight relative to the total weight of the first composition.
Selon un mode particulier de réalisation de l'invention, la première composition de l'ensemble cosmétique comprend un complexe polymère-H2θ2 tel que défini ci-dessus et un véhicule anhydre acceptable sur le plan cosmétique ou dermatologique. L'ensemble selon l'invention étant destiné à une utilisation topique sur la peau, le véhicule dans la première composition doit être acceptable sur le plan cosmétique ou dermatologique, plus particulièrement sans odeur, couleur ou aspect désagréable, et qui ne génère pas de picotement, tiraillement ou rougeur inacceptable pour l'utilisateur.According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the first composition of the cosmetic assembly comprises a polymer-H 2 θ 2 complex as defined above and a cosmetically or dermatologically acceptable anhydrous carrier. The assembly according to the invention being intended for topical use on the skin, the vehicle in the first composition must be acceptable from the cosmetic or dermatological standpoint, more particularly without odor, color or unpleasant appearance, and which does not generate tingling. tugging or redness unacceptable to the user.
Par véhicule acceptable sur le plan cosmétique ou dermatologique, on comprend un milieu compatible avec les matières kératiniques d'êtres humains comme la peau, les muqueuses, les ongles, le cuir chevelu et/ou les cheveux.By a cosmetically or dermatologically acceptable carrier, an environment compatible with keratin materials of human beings such as the skin, the mucous membranes, the nails, the scalp and / or the hair is understood.
Le terme « véhicule », dans le cadre de la présente invention, désigne un solvant organique ou un mélange de solvants organiques. Les solvants organiques peuvent notamment être choisis parmi les véhicules à base de glycols (véhicules glycolés), alcools (véhicules alcooliques), cétones, éthers, esters, aldéhydes et leur mélange, acceptables sur le plan cosmétique ou dermatologique.The term "carrier" in the context of the present invention refers to an organic solvent or a mixture of organic solvents. The organic solvents may in particular be chosen from vehicles based on glycols (glycolated vehicles), alcohols (alcoholic vehicles), ketones, ethers, esters, aldehydes and their mixture, which are acceptable from the cosmetic or dermatological point of view.
Par véhicule alcoolique, on entend un véhicule comprenant au moins un monoalcool inférieur hydrosoluble représentant au moins 50% en poids du véhicule. On entend par monoalcool inférieur, un alcool comportant de 1 à 8 atomes de carbone et ne comprenant qu'une seule fonction hydroxyle. Comme monoalcools inférieurs, on peut citer par exemple l'éthanol, l'isopropanol, le butanol, le pentanol et leurs mélanges. De préférence, on choisit des alcools primaires comportant de 1 à 4 atomes de carbone. On préfère l'éthanol.By alcoholic vehicle is meant a vehicle comprising at least one water-soluble lower monoalcohol representing at least 50% by weight of the vehicle. By lower monoalcohol is meant an alcohol having from 1 to 8 carbon atoms and comprising only one hydroxyl function. As lower monoalcohols include, for example, ethanol, isopropanol, butanol, pentanol and mixtures thereof. Preferably, primary alcohols having 1 to 4 carbon atoms are selected. Ethanol is preferred.
Par véhicule glycolé, on entend un véhicule comprenant au moins un composé organique présentant au moins deux fonctions hydroxyle (dénommé, dans la présente description, glycol).By glycol carrier means a vehicle comprising at least one organic compound having at least two hydroxyl functions (referred to herein as glycol).
On peut citer notamment : - le glycérol ; les glycols monomériques, et en particulier les diols, tels que notamment le propylène glycol, le dipropylène glycol, le butylène glycol, diéthylène glycol, éthylène glycol, hexylène glycol, isoprène glycol, pentylène glycol, butanediol,In particular, mention may be made of: glycerol; monomeric glycols, and in particular diols, such as in particular propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, butylene glycol, diethylene glycol, ethylene glycol, hexylene glycol, isoprene glycol, pentylene glycol, butanediol,
1 ,2-propanediol, 1 ,3 propanediol, pentanediols, en particulier le 1 ,5-pentanediol, décanediol, dodécanediol, et leurs éthers, tels que le monométhyléther de propylèneglycol, le monobutyl éther de dipropylène glycol ou le 2- butoxyethanol; les glycols polymériques, tels que notamment les polyéthylènes glycols1,2-propanediol, 1,3-propanediol, pentanediols, especially 1,5-pentanediol, decanediol, dodecanediol, and their ethers, such as propylene glycol monomethyl ether, dipropylene glycol monobutyl ether or 2-butoxyethanol; polymeric glycols, such as in particular polyethylenes glycols
(PEG) de hauts ou de bas poids moléculaires et en particulier les polyéthylènes glycols de poids moléculaire inférieur à 600, comme le PEG-8 (ou Polyéthylène(PEG) of high or low molecular weight and in particular polyethylene glycols with a molecular weight of less than 600, such as PEG-8 (or polyethylene
400), le PEG-6, et le PEG-12.400), PEG-6, and PEG-12.
Parmi les glycols préférés on peut citer les glycols polymériques en particulier les polyéthylènes glycols de poids moléculaire inférieur à 600, comme le PEG-8 (ou Polyéthylène 400), le PEG-6, et le PEG-12.Among the preferred glycols, mention may be made of polymeric glycols, in particular polyethylene glycols with a molecular weight of less than 600, such as PEG-8 (or Polyethylene 400), PEG-6, and PEG-12.
Comme PEG préféré, on citera le PEG-8 ou le PEG-6.Preferred PEGs are PEG-8 or PEG-6.
Selon un mode particulier, le véhicule glycolé selon l'invention comprend au moins deux glycols choisis parmi les glycols monomériques et les PEGs, ou les PEG de bas poids moléculaires et les PEG de haut poids moléculaires.According to one particular embodiment, the glycolic carrier according to the invention comprises at least two glycols chosen from monomeric glycols and PEGs, or low molecular weight PEGs and high molecular weight PEGs.
Selon un autre mode particulier, le véhicule glycolé selon l'invention comprend au moins un diol et au moins un glycol choisi parmi la glycérine ou un PEG. A titre d'exemple, le véhicule glycolé peut comprendre les associations de glycols suivantes :According to another particular mode, the glycol carrier according to the invention comprises at least one diol and at least one glycol selected from glycerine or a PEG. AT As an example, the glycol vehicle may include the following glycols associations:
- (propylène glycol ou butylène glycol) et glycérine ;- (propylene glycol or butylene glycol) and glycerine;
- (propylène glycol ou butylène glycol) et PEG8 ; - (propylène glycol ou butylène glycol) et glycérine et PEG-8.- (propylene glycol or butylene glycol) and PEG8; - (propylene glycol or butylene glycol) and glycerine and PEG-8.
De façon avantageuse, le véhicule glycolé selon l'invention comprend le butylène glycol et éventuellement le PEG-8. De préférence, le véhicule glycolé comprend du PEG-8.Advantageously, the glycol vehicle according to the invention comprises butylene glycol and optionally PEG-8. Preferably, the glycol carrier comprises PEG-8.
Dans un mode préféré de réalisation, la première composition de l'ensemble cosmétique selon l'invention comprend un complexe PVP-H2O2 et un véhicule glycolé comprenant du PEG-8.In a preferred embodiment, the first composition of the cosmetic assembly according to the invention comprises a PVP-H2O2 complex and a glycol vehicle comprising PEG-8.
Selon un mode préféré, lorsque le véhicule glycolé contient un mélange glycols/glycérine, la teneur en glycérine sera inférieure à 50% en poids de glycérine par rapport au poids total du véhicule.According to a preferred embodiment, when the glycolic carrier contains a glycols / glycerin mixture, the glycerin content will be less than 50% by weight of glycerin relative to the total weight of the vehicle.
Selon un autre mode préféré, lorsque le véhicule est composé d'un mélange d'un véhicule glycolé à base de glycérine et d'un véhicule alcoolique (notamment à base d'éthanol), la teneur en glycérine sera inférieure à 50% en poids de glycérine par rapport au poids total du véhicule.According to another preferred embodiment, when the vehicle is composed of a mixture of a glycol-based vehicle based on glycerine and an alcoholic vehicle (especially based on ethanol), the glycerin content will be less than 50% by weight of glycerin relative to the total weight of the vehicle.
Selon un autre mode, le véhicule comprend un véhicule comprenant au moins un glycol tel que défini ci-dessus (y compris les modes préférés), de préférence un glycol monomérique et/ou un glycol polymérique, et au moins un alcool tel que défini ci-dessus, de préférence l'éthanol.According to another embodiment, the vehicle comprises a vehicle comprising at least one glycol as defined above (including the preferred modes), preferably a monomeric glycol and / or a polymeric glycol, and at least one alcohol as defined herein. above, preferably ethanol.
Parmi les autres solvants organiques qui peuvent être utiles en tant que véhicules dans la composition, on peut notamment citer: les cétones liquides à température ambiante (20-250C) tels que la méthyléthylcétone, la méthylisobutylcétone, la diisobutylcétone, l'isophorone, la cyclohexanone, l'acétone ; les éthers de propylène glycol liquides à température ambiante tels que le monométhyléther de propylène glycol, l'acétate de monométhyléther de propylène glycol, le mono n-butyl éther de dipropylène glycol; les éthers cycliques tels que la gamma-butyrolactone ; les esters à chaîne courte (ayant de 3 a 8 atomes de carbone au total), tels que l'acétate d'éthyle, l'acétate de méthyle, l'acétate de propyle, l'acétate d'isopropyle, l'acétate de n-butyle, l'acétate d'isopentyle, l'acétate de méthoxypropyle, le lactate de butyle ; les éthers liquides à température ambiante tels que le diéthylether, le diméthyléther ou le dichlorodiéthylether ; les aldéhydes liquides à température ambiante tels que le benzaldéhyde, l'acétaldéhyde ; et leurs mélanges.Among the other organic solvents which may be useful as vehicles in the composition, there may be mentioned: ketones which are liquid at room temperature (20-25 ° C.), such as methyl ethyl ketone, methyl isobutyl ketone, diisobutyl ketone or isophorone, cyclohexanone, acetone; propylene glycol ethers which are liquid at room temperature, such as propylene glycol monomethyl ether, propylene glycol monomethyl ether acetate or dipropylene glycol mono-butyl ether; cyclic ethers such as gamma-butyrolactone; short-chain esters (having from 3 to 8 carbon atoms in total), such as ethyl acetate, methyl acetate, propyl acetate, isopropyl acetate, n-butyl, isopentyl acetate, methoxypropyl acetate, butyl lactate; ethers which are liquid at ambient temperature, such as diethyl ether, dimethyl ether or dichlorodiethyl ether; aldehydes that are liquid at room temperature, such as benzaldehyde or acetaldehyde; and their mixtures.
Dans un mode de réalisation particulièrement préféré, le véhicule de la première composition comprend une faible quantité d'huile. En d'autres termes, la quantité d'huile ne dépasse généralement pas 10% en poids par rapport au poids total de la première composition. La quantité en huile dans la première composition est de préférence inférieure ou égale à 7 %, en poids par rapport au poids total de la première composition, de manière encore plus préférée inférieure à 5 %, de préférence inférieure à 4 %. De préférence, le véhicule de la première composition ne comprend pas d'huile. Comme indiqué ci-dessus, les polymères utilisés dans le complexe de la première composition ont de préférence des propriétés filmogènes. En conséquence, le mélange du polymère filmogène avec une huile, si elle est en quantité plus élevée que signalée ci-dessus, entraîne la formation d'une composition présentant un aspect et une texture peu compatible avec une utilisation cosmétique. On entend par "huile" selon l'invention un corps gras liquide à la température ambiante (environ 25°C) et en particulier tel que défini ci-après.In a particularly preferred embodiment, the vehicle of the first composition comprises a small amount of oil. In other words, the amount of oil does not generally exceed 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the first composition. The amount of oil in the first composition is preferably less than or equal to 7%, by weight relative to the total weight of the first composition, more preferably less than 5%, preferably less than 4%. Preferably, the vehicle of the first composition does not include oil. As indicated above, the polymers used in the complex of the first composition preferably have film-forming properties. Consequently, the mixture of the film-forming polymer with an oil, if it is in a higher amount than indicated above, results in the formation of a composition having an appearance and a texture that is not very compatible with a cosmetic use. The term "oil" according to the invention means a fatty substance which is liquid at ambient temperature (approximately 25 ° C.) and in particular as defined below.
Dans un mode de réalisation particulièrement avantageux, la première composition selon la présente invention comprend, à titre de complexe polymère-H2O2, l'un des complexes PVP-H2O2 commercialisés par ISP sous la dénomination Peroxydone®, notamment les produits Peroxydone® K-30 et K- 90, de préférence la Peroxydone® K-30. De préférence, ce complexe PVP- H2O2 est dispersé dans le PEG-8.In a particularly advantageous embodiment, the first composition according to the present invention comprises, as polymer-H 2 O 2 complex, one of the PVP-H 2 O 2 complexes marketed by ISP under the name Peroxydone®, especially the Peroxydone® K-30 and K- 90, preferably Peroxydone K-30. Preferably, this PVP-H2O2 complex is dispersed in PEG-8.
La première composition de l'ensemble cosmétique selon l'invention est anhydre. En d'autres termes, la teneur en eau dans la première composition est faible. Ainsi, la quantité d'eau ne dépasse généralement pas 10% en poids par rapport au poids total de la première composition. Elle peut notamment contenir une faible quantité d'eau qui provient généralement des matières premières utilisées. La quantité en eau dans la première composition est de préférence inférieure ou égale à 7 %, en poids par rapport au poids total de la première composition, de manière encore plus préférée inférieure à 5 %, de préférence inférieure à 4 %.The first composition of the cosmetic assembly according to the invention is anhydrous. In other words, the water content in the first composition is low. Thus, the amount of water does not generally exceed 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the first composition. It may in particular contain a small amount of water that usually comes from the raw materials used. The quantity of water in the first composition is preferably less than or equal to 7%, by weight relative to the total weight of the first composition, more preferably less than 5%, preferably less than 4%.
La faible teneur en eau dans la première composition selon l'invention a pour effet une plus grande stabilité du peroxyde d'hydrogène dans la composition.The low water content in the first composition according to the invention has the effect of a greater stability of the hydrogen peroxide in the composition.
Dans un mode préféré de réalisation, la première composition de l'ensemble selon l'invention ne comprend pas d'activateur favorisant la décomposition de H2O2 (voir ci-dessous la description de la deuxième composition pour la définition du terme « activateur favorisant la décomposition de H2O2 »). L'activateur est ainsi séparé du peroxyde d'hydrogène, ce qui permet d'améliorer l'efficacité du soin cosmétique selon l'invention.In a preferred embodiment, the first composition of the assembly according to the invention does not comprise an enhancer promoting the decomposition of H2O2 (see below the description of the second composition for the definition of the term "activator promoting decomposition H2O2 "). The activator is thus separated from hydrogen peroxide, which makes it possible to improve the effectiveness of the cosmetic treatment according to the invention.
La deuxième composition de l'ensemble cosmétique comprend au moins un activateur favorisant la décomposition de H2O2. Le terme « activateur favorisant la décomposition de H2O2 » couvre toute molécule ou composition qui peut entraîner la décomposition de H2O2 en eau et oxygène.The second composition of the cosmetic assembly comprises at least one activator promoting the decomposition of H2O2. The term "H2O2 decomposing activator" covers any molecule or composition that can cause the decomposition of H2O2 into water and oxygen.
Ce terme couvre donc un grand nombre de composés connus de l'homme du métier. A titre d'activateurs, on peut en particulier citer les composés basiques, notamment l'hydroxyde de sodium ou de potassium, l'ammoniac ou la triéthanolamine, le bicarbonate de sodium (ou d'ammonium), le carbonate de sodium, le gluconate de manganèse, le borate de sodium, le peroxyde de calcium, l'hydroxyde de calcium, les aminoacides basiques et leurs sels, tels que la lysine, l'arginine et leurs sels ; la guanidine ; le carbonate de potassium, l'urée, l'aminométhylpropanol, l'aminopropanol, la monoéthanolamine (MEA), l'aminopropylthéthoxysilane (APTES), les dérivés de silicates de sodium ou de magnésium, notamment laponite (en particulier la Laponite XLG commercialisée par la société Rockwood), smectite, metasilicate de sodium, hectorite, les zéolites basiques, notamment la zéolite commercialisée par la société Zeochem sous la référence X-MOL, ou leur mélange. Avantageusement, les activateurs sont choisis parmi le bicarbonate de sodium, laponite, les zéolites, le peroxyde de calcium, la soude (de préférence à 10 % dans l'eau), le metasilicate de sodium et leur mélange. Les activateurs sont de préférence choisis parmi le bicarbonate de sodium, les zéolites et le peroxyde de calcium. De manière particulièrement préférée l'activateur est une zéolite. Ainsi, dans un mode particulier de réalisation, la deuxième composition de l'ensemble cosmétique selon l'invention comprend une zéolite.This term therefore covers a large number of compounds known to those skilled in the art. As activators, mention may in particular be made of basic compounds, especially sodium or potassium hydroxide, ammonia or triethanolamine, sodium bicarbonate (or ammonium), sodium carbonate, gluconate of manganese, sodium borate, peroxide calcium, calcium hydroxide, basic amino acids and their salts, such as lysine, arginine and their salts; guanidine; potassium carbonate, urea, aminomethylpropanol, aminopropanol, monoethanolamine (MEA), aminopropylthethoxysilane (APTES), derivatives of sodium or magnesium silicates, in particular laponite (in particular Laponite XLG sold by the company Rockwood), smectite, sodium metasilicate, hectorite, basic zeolites, in particular the zeolite marketed by Zeochem under the reference X-MOL, or their mixture. Advantageously, the activators are chosen from sodium bicarbonate, laponite, zeolites, calcium peroxide, sodium hydroxide (preferably 10% in water), sodium metasilicate and their mixture. The activators are preferably selected from sodium bicarbonate, zeolites and calcium peroxide. In a particularly preferred manner, the activator is a zeolite. Thus, in a particular embodiment, the second composition of the cosmetic assembly according to the invention comprises a zeolite.
Avantageusement, l'ensemble cosmétique selon l'invention comprend - une première composition anhydre comprenant un complexe PVP-H2O2, de préférence dans un véhicule glycolé comprenant du PEG-8, et - une deuxième composition comprenant une zéolite.Advantageously, the cosmetic assembly according to the invention comprises - a first anhydrous composition comprising a PVP-H2O2 complex, preferably in a glycolic vehicle comprising PEG-8, and - a second composition comprising a zeolite.
L'activateur peut être de préférence choisi parmi les composés ou compositions capables de générer un pH supérieur à 8,5, de préférence supérieur à 9, lorsqu'ils sont mélangés à un complexe polymère-H2O2 à 11 % en poids dans l'eau (avec un pourcentage en H2O2 de 2% dans la composition aqueuse) par rapport au poids total du mélange (polymère-H2O2/eau).The activator may preferably be chosen from compounds or compositions capable of generating a pH greater than 8.5, preferably greater than 9, when they are mixed with a polymer-H 2 O 2 complex at 11% by weight in water (with a percentage of H 2 O 2 of 2% in the aqueous composition) relative to the total weight of the mixture (polymer-H 2 O 2 / water).
Dans le cas d'un complexe PVP-H2O2, on peut utiliser le protocole suivant pour sélectionner les activateurs. On réalise une dispersion de 11g de Peroxydone K-30® (ISP) dans 75 g d'eau à laquelle on ajoute des quantités croissantes d'activateur. Le pH est mesuré immédiatement après chaque ajout. On ajoute l'activateur en excès jusqu'à ce que le ratio en poids Activateur/H2O2 atteigne 10. Dans cet exemple, la quantité de H2O2 est d'environ 2g car la Peroxydone K-30® contient 18,5% de H2O2 en poids par rapport au poids total de la Peroxydone K-30® (c'est-à-dire du complexe).In the case of a PVP-H 2 O 2 complex, the following protocol can be used to select the activators. A dispersion of 11 g of Peroxydone K-30 ® (ISP) is made in 75 g of water to which increasing amounts of activator are added. The pH is measured immediately after each addition. The excess activator is added until the activator / H 2 O 2 weight ratio reaches 10. In this example, the amount of H2O2 is about 2g because the peroxydone K-30 ® contains 18.5% H2O2 by weight relative to the total weight of the Peroxydone K-30 ® (i.e. to say of the complex).
Les activateurs préférés sont choisis parmi la laponite XLG de Rockwood, la zéolite X-MOL commercialisée par Zeochem, le peroxyde de calcium, la soude (à 10 % dans l'eau) le métasilicate de sodium et leur mélange (cf tableau 1 ci- dessous).The preferred activators are chosen from Rockwood laplonite XLG, zeolite X-MOL marketed by Zeochem, calcium peroxide, sodium hydroxide (10% in water) and sodium metasilicate and their mixture (see Table 1 below). below).
Tableau 1 :Table 1:
L'homme du métier veillera tout particulièrement à introduire une quantité suffisante de l'activateur pour que la décomposition de H2O2, après mélange des compositions de l'ensemble cosmétique selon l'invention, soit efficace pour améliorer l'aspect de la peau de l'utilisateur.Those skilled in the art will pay particular attention to introducing a sufficient quantity of the activator so that the decomposition of H 2 O 2 , after mixing the compositions of the cosmetic assembly according to the invention, is effective in improving the appearance of the skin of the user.
On choisira de préférence un ou des activateurs qui permettent d'obtenir dans le test décrit ci-dessus un pH compris entre 9 et 11 , de préférence entre 9 et 10. La quantité d'activateurs dans la deuxième composition dépend des composants des première et deuxième compositions de l'ensemble selon l'invention, de leurs quantités respectives et de leurs formes galéniques. En particulier, l'homme du métier veillera à choisir la quantité d'activateurs de manière à ce que lorsque les compositions de l'ensemble cosmétique selon l'invention sont mélangées, le mélange en résultant puisse exprimer un pH supérieur à 8,5, de préférence supérieur à 9, et notamment compris entre 9 et 11 , de préférence entre 9 et 10. Pour des raisons de tolérance, on préférera toutefois un pH compris entre 9 et 9,5. A titre illustratif, on pourra utiliser des quantités d'activateurs définies sur la base du tableau 1 ci-dessus.It is preferable to choose one or more activators which make it possible to obtain, in the test described above, a pH of between 9 and 11, preferably between 9 and 10. The amount of activators in the second composition depends on the components of the first and second compositions of the assembly according to the invention, their respective amounts and their galenic forms. In particular, those skilled in the art will take care to choose the amount of activators so that when the compositions of the cosmetic assembly according to the invention are mixed, the resulting mixture can express a pH greater than 8.5, preferably greater than 9, and especially between 9 and 11, preferably between 9 and 10. For reasons of tolerance, however, a pH of between 9 and 9.5 is preferred. As an illustration, it will be possible to use amounts of activators defined on the basis of Table 1 above.
Selon un mode particulier, le pH du mélange sera compris entre pH 8,3 et 9 inclus.According to a particular mode, the pH of the mixture will be between pH 8.3 and 9 inclusive.
Par « possibilité d'exprimer un pH », dans le cadre de la présente invention, on entend définir le pH du mélange des deux compositions de l'ensemble cosmétique lorsque ce mélange comprend de l'eau.By "possibility of expressing a pH", in the context of the present invention, it is intended to define the pH of the mixture of the two compositions of the cosmetic assembly when this mixture comprises water.
La première composition selon l'invention est anhydre et la deuxième composition peut éventuellement l'être aussi. Dans ce cas, le mélange des deux compositions anhydres ne permet pas la mesure d'un pH. Pour savoir quel est le pH exprimé par le mélange anhydre, on ajoute à ce mélange de l'eau, par exemple en une quantité supérieure à 15 %, préférentiellement supérieure à 20 % en poids par rapport au poids total eau+mélange des compositions, et on mesure le pH. Ce pH mesuré est le pH exprimé.The first composition according to the invention is anhydrous and the second composition may possibly be too. In this case, the mixture of the two anhydrous compositions does not allow the measurement of a pH. To know what is the pH expressed by the anhydrous mixture, water is added to this mixture, for example in an amount greater than 15%, preferably greater than 20% by weight relative to the total weight of water + mixture of the compositions, and the pH is measured. This measured pH is the pH expressed.
La deuxième composition comprend au moins un activateur et éventuellement un véhicule acceptable sur le plan cosmétique ou dermatologique.The second composition comprises at least one activator and optionally a cosmetically or dermatologically acceptable carrier.
Selon une variante, la deuxième composition est constituée uniquement d'un ou plusieurs activateurs. Selon cette variante, la deuxième composition peut être sous forme de poudre. Selon un mode de réalisation préféré de cette variante, l'activateur est une zéolite sous forme de poudre. Encore plus préférentiellement, la première composition comprend un complexe PVP-H2O2 et un véhicule glycolé comprenant du PEG-8, et la deuxième composition est constituée d'une zéolite sous forme de poudre.According to one variant, the second composition consists solely of one or more activators. According to this variant, the second composition may be in powder form. According to a preferred embodiment of this variant, the activator is a zeolite in powder form. Even more preferentially, the first composition comprises a PVP-H2O2 complex and a glycolic vehicle comprising PEG-8, and the second composition consists of a zeolite in powder form.
Selon une autre variante, la deuxième composition comprend au moins un activateur et un véhicule acceptable sur le plan cosmétique ou dermatologique. L'ensemble selon l'invention étant destiné à une utilisation topique sur la peau, le véhicule dans la deuxième composition doit également être acceptable sur le plan cosmétique ou dermatologique, plus particulièrement sans odeur, couleur ou aspect désagréable, et qui ne génère pas de picotement, tiraillement ou rougeur inacceptable pour l'utilisateur.According to another variant, the second composition comprises at least one activator and a cosmetically or dermatologically acceptable carrier. The assembly according to the invention being intended for topical use on the skin, the vehicle in the second composition must also be acceptable from the cosmetic or dermatological standpoint, more particularly without odor, color or unpleasant appearance, and which does not generate tingling, tightness or redness unacceptable to the user.
Les mêmes véhicules que ceux décrits ci-dessus pour la première composition de l'ensemble cosmétique peuvent être utilisés dans la deuxième composition. Comme véhicule, la deuxième composition peut en outre comprendre au moins une huile. Elle peut également comprendre de l'eau.The same vehicles as those described above for the first composition of the cosmetic assembly can be used in the second composition. As a vehicle, the second composition may further comprise at least one oil. It may also include water.
Comme huiles utilisables dans la composition de l'invention, on peut citer par exemple :As oils that can be used in the composition of the invention, mention may be made for example of:
- les hydrocarbures linéaires ou ramifiés, d'origine minérale ou synthétique, tels que les huiles de paraffine, volatiles ou non, et leurs dérivés, la vaseline, les polydécènes, le polyisobutène hydrogéné tel que l'huile de Parléam® ; les alcanes ramifiés en C8-Ci6, comme les isoalcanes en C8-Ci6, tels que l'isododécane (encore appelé 2,2,4,4, 6-pentaméthylheptane), l'isodécane, l'isohexadécane ;linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, such as paraffin oils, volatile or not, and their derivatives, petroleum jelly, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam® oil; branched alkanes, C 8 -C 6 isoalkanes C 8 -C 6, such as isododecane (also known as 2,2,4,4, 6-pentamethylheptane), isodecane and isohexadecane;
- les triglycérides, telles que les triglycérides liquides d'acides gras comportant de 4 à 10 atomes de carbone comme les triglycérides des acides heptanoïque ou octanoïque ; ou encore les huiles hydrocarbonées d'origine végétale telles que, par exemple les huiles d'amande douce, de tournesol, de maïs, de soja, de courge, de coriandre, de pépins de raisin, de sésame, de noisette, d'abricot (Prunus Armenica OiI), de macadamia, d'arara, de ricin, d'avocat, les triglycérides des acides caprylique/caprique comme ceux vendus par la société Stearineries Dubois ou ceux vendus sous les dénominations Miglyol 810, 812 et 818 par la société Dynamit Nobel, l'huile de jojoba, l'huile de beurre de karité ;triglycerides, such as liquid triglycerides of fatty acids containing from 4 to 10 carbon atoms, such as triglycerides of heptanoic or octanoic acids; or hydrocarbon oils of plant origin such as, for example, sweet almond, sunflower, corn, soybean, squash, coriander, grape seed, sesame, hazelnut, apricot oils. (Prunus Armenica OiI), macadamia, arara, castor oil, avocado, triglycerides of caprylic / capric acids such as those sold by Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810, 812 and 818 by Dynamit Nobel, jojoba oil, shea butter oil;
- les esters et les éthers de synthèse, notamment d'acides gras, comme les huiles de formules R1COOR2 et R1OR2 dans laquelle R1 représente le reste d'un acide gras comportant de 8 à 29 atomes de carbone, et R2 représente une chaîne hydrocarbonée, ramifiée ou non, contenant de 3 à 30 atomes de carbone, comme par exemple l'huile de Purcellin ou 660084 PCL-LIQUID de la société SYMRISE (mélange d'éthyl-2 hexanoate de cétylstéaryle et de myristate d'isopropyle), l'isononanoate d'isononyle, le myristate d'isopropyle, le palmitate d'isopropyle, le palmitate d'éthyl-2-hexyle (ou palmitate d'octyle), le stéarate d'octyl-2-dodécyle, l'érucate d'octyl-2-dodécyle, l'isostéarate d'isostéaryle ; les esters hydroxylés comme l'isostéaryl lactate, l'octylhydroxystéarate, l'hydroxystéarate d'octyldodécyle, le diisostéaryl-malate, le citrate de triisocétyle, les heptanoates, octanoates, décanoates d'alcools gras ; les esters de polyol, comme le dioctanoate de propylène glycol, le diheptanoate de néopentylglycol et le diisononanoate de diéthylèneglycol ; et les esters du pentaérythritol comme le tétraisostéarate de pentaérythrityle ;esters and synthetic ethers, in particular of fatty acids, such as the oils of formulas R 1 COOR 2 and R 1 OR 2 in which R 1 represents the residue of a fatty acid comprising from 8 to 29 carbon atoms, and R 2 represents a hydrocarbon chain, branched or unbranched, containing from 3 to 30 carbon atoms, for example Purcellin oil or 660084 PCL-LIQUID from the company SYMRISE (a mixture of cetylstearyl ethyl 2 hexanoate and isopropyl myristate), isononyl isononanoate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate (or octyl palmitate), octyl-2 stearate dodecyl, octyl-2-dodecyl erucate, isostearyl isostearate; hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate, octyl hydroxystearate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate, diisostearyl malate, triisocetyl citrate, heptanoates, octanoates, decanoates of fatty alcohols; polyol esters, such as propylene glycol dioctanoate, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate and diethylene glycol diisononanoate; and pentaerythritol esters such as pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate;
- les alcools gras ayant de 8 à 26 atomes de carbone, comme l'alcool isocétylique, l'alcool isostéarylique et leur mélange (alcool cétéarylique), l'octyldodécanol, le 2-butyloctanol, le 2-hexyldécanol, le 2- undécylpentadécanol, l'alcool oléique ou l'alcool linoléique ;fatty alcohols having from 8 to 26 carbon atoms, such as isoketyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol and their mixture (cetearyl alcohol), octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, oleic alcohol or linoleic alcohol;
- les huiles fluorées partiellement hydrocarbonées et/ou siliconées, comme celles décrites dans le document JP-A-2-295912, comme huiles fluorées, on peut citer aussi le perfluorométhylcyclopentane et le perfluoro-1 ,3 diméthylcyclohexane, vendus sous les dénominations de "FLUTEC PC1®" etthe partially hydrocarbon-based and / or silicone-based fluorinated oils, such as those described in document JP-A-2-295912, as fluorinated oils, mention may also be made of perfluoromethylcyclopentane and perfluoro-1,3-dimethylcyclohexane, sold under the names " FLUTEC PC1 ® "and
"FLUTEC PC3®" par la Société BNFL Fluorochemicals ; le perfluoro-1 ,2- diméthylcyclobutane ; les perfluoroalcanes tels que le dodécafluoropentane et le tétradécafluorohexane, vendus sous les dénominations de "PF 5050®" et "PF 5060®" par la Société 3M, ou encore le bromoperfluorooctyle vendu sous la dénomination "FORALKYL®" par la Société Atochem ; le nonafluorométhoxybutane vendu sous la dénomination "MSX 4518®" par la Société 3M et le nonafluoroéthoxyisobutane ; les dérivés de perfluoromorpholine, tels que la 4-trifl uorométhyl perfluoromorpholine vendue sous la dénomination "PF 5052®" par la Société 3M ;"FLUTEC PC3 ® " by BNFL Fluorochemicals; perfluoro-1,2-dimethylcyclobutane; perfluoroalkanes such as dodecafluoropentane and tetradecafluorohexane, sold under the names "PF 5050 ®" and "PF 5060 ®" by the company 3M, or bromoperfluorooctyl sold under the name "FORALKYL ®" by the company Atochem; nonafluoromethoxybutane sold under the name "MSX 4518 ®" by the 3M company and nonafluoroethoxyisobutane; perfluoromorpholine derivatives, such as 4-trifl uorométhyl perfluoromorpholine sold under the name "PF 5052 ®" by the company 3M;
- les huiles de silicone comme les polyméthylsiloxanes (PDMS) volatiles ou non à chaîne siliconée linéaire ou cyclique, liquides ou pâteux à température ambiante, notamment les cyclopolydiméthylsiloxanes (cyclométhicones) telles que la cyclohexasiloxane et la cyclopentasiloxane ; les polydiméthylsiloxanes comportant des groupements alkyle, alcoxy ou phényle, pendant ou en bout de chaîne siliconée, groupements ayant de 2 à 24 atomes de carbone ; les silicones phénylées comme les phényltriméthicones, les phényldiméthicones, les phénylthméthylsiloxydiphényl-siloxanes, les diphényl-diméthicones, les diphénylméthyl-diphényl trisiloxanes, les 2-phényléthyltriméthyl-siloxysilicates, et les polyméthyl-phénylsiloxanes ;silicone oils such as volatile or non-volatile polymethylsiloxanes (PDMS) with a linear or cyclic silicone chain, which are liquid or pasty at room temperature, in particular cyclopolydimethylsiloxanes (cyclomethicones) such as cyclohexasiloxane and cyclopentasiloxane; polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl, alkoxy or phenyl groups, during or at the end of the silicone chain, groups having from 2 to 24 carbon atoms; phenyl silicones such as phenyltrimethicones, phenyldimethicones, phenylthmethylsiloxydiphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl-dimethicones, diphenylmethyl-diphenyltrisiloxanes, 2-phenylethyltrimethylsiloxysilicates, and polymethylphenylsiloxanes;
- leurs mélanges.- their mixtures.
De préférence, on utilisera des huiles volatiles, et en particulier des huiles volatiles non oxydables, telles que des hydrocarbures, éthers ou polydiméthylsiloxane à chaîne courte (C2-C2o)- On peut citer notamment le dicaprylyl éther et la cyclopentasiloxane.Preferably, volatile oils, and in particular non-oxidizable volatile oils, such as short-chain hydrocarbons, ethers or polydimethylsiloxanes (C2-C20) are used. Dicaprylyl ether and cyclopentasiloxane may be mentioned in particular.
Dans un mode particulier de réalisation, la deuxième composition de l'ensemble selon l'invention est une composition anhydre. En d'autres termes, la teneur en eau dans la deuxième composition est faible. Ainsi, la quantité d'eau ne dépasse généralement pas 10% en poids par rapport au poids total de la deuxième composition. Elle peut notamment contenir une faible quantité d'eau qui provient généralement des matières premières utilisées. La quantité en eau dans la deuxième composition est de préférence inférieure ou égale à 7 %, en poids par rapport au poids total de la deuxième composition, de manière encore plus préférée inférieure à 5 %, de préférence inférieure à 4 %. Dans un autre mode de réalisation, la deuxième composition selon l'invention est une composition comprenant de l'eau. La quantité d'eau dépend du type de composition envisagée pour le soin cosmétique.In a particular embodiment, the second composition of the assembly according to the invention is an anhydrous composition. In other words, the water content in the second composition is low. Thus, the amount of water does not generally exceed 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the second composition. It may in particular contain a small amount of water that usually comes from the raw materials used. The amount of water in the second composition is preferably less than or equal to 7% by weight relative to the total weight of the second composition, more preferably less than 5%, preferably less than 4%. In another embodiment, the second composition according to the invention is a composition comprising water. The amount of water depends on the type of composition envisaged for the cosmetic treatment.
De préférence, cette composition contient de l'eau dans une quantité telle que le mélange des première et deuxième compositions de l'ensemble cosmétique selon l'invention comprenne moins de 70 %, de préférence moins de 50 %, en poids d'eau par rapport au poids total du mélange, de préférence moins de 40Preferably, this composition contains water in an amount such that the mixture of the first and second compositions of the cosmetic assembly according to the invention comprises less than 70%, preferably less than 50%, by weight of water per relative to the total weight of the mixture, preferably less than 40
% en poids. Selon ce mode et de manière préférée, la deuxième composition comprend plus de 10 % en poids d'eau par rapport au poids total de la deuxième composition.% in weight. According to this mode and preferably, the second composition comprises more than 10% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the second composition.
Dans un mode particulier de réalisation, la deuxième composition de l'ensemble selon l'invention ne comprend pas de H2O2.In a particular embodiment, the second composition of the assembly according to the invention does not comprise H2O2.
Dans un autre mode particulier de réalisation de l'invention, la deuxième composition est une composition comprenant une zéolite à titre d'activateur et un véhicule glycolé, anhydre ou aqueux, comprenant du butylène glycol. De préférence dans ce mode de réalisation, le véhicule glycolé comprenant du butylène glycol est un véhicule aqueux.In another particular embodiment of the invention, the second composition is a composition comprising a zeolite as an activator and an anhydrous or aqueous glycol vehicle comprising butylene glycol. Preferably in this embodiment, the glycol vehicle comprising butylene glycol is an aqueous vehicle.
Dans un mode particulier de réalisation, les compositions de l'ensemble cosmétique selon l'invention peuvent également comprendre au moins un gélifiant ou épaississant. L'homme du métier veillera à incorporer dans l'une ou l'autre des compositions, ou dans les deux, tout gélifiant compatible avec une utilisation cosmétique ou dermatologique. On peut notamment citer, à titre de gélifiant, les alkyl polyéthylèneglycol (ou encore nommés alkyl PEG), tels que notamment PEG 120 méthyl di(ou tri)— oléate (Glucamate DOE 120 de Noveon, par exemple), PEG 150 tetrastéarate de pentaérytrityle (Crothix de Croda, par exemple); les dérivés de celluloses, tels que notamment l'hydroxypropyl methyl cellulose (Klucel HF Pharm d'Aqualon Hercules, par exemple); ou les poloxamers, tels que notamment un condensât d'oxyde d'éthylène, d'oxyde de propylène et d'oxyde d'éthylène (comme par exemple : 128 OE /54 OP /128 OE) (PM: 14000) commercialisé sous la dénomination SYNPERONIC PE/F108 par Uniquema (nom INCI: Poloxamer 338) ; ou les homo- et copolymères acryliques et les homo- et copolymères d'acide acrylamido méthylpropane sulfonique (l'AMPS: Ammonium Polyacryloyldimethyl taurate (par exemple: Hostacerin AMPS de Clahant).In a particular embodiment, the compositions of the cosmetic assembly according to the invention may also comprise at least one gelling agent or thickener. Those skilled in the art will take care to incorporate into one or other of the compositions, or both, any gelling agent compatible with a cosmetic or dermatological use. Mention may in particular be made, as a gelling agent, of alkyl polyethylene glycol (or alternatively referred to as PEG alkyl), such as in particular PEG 120 methyl di (or tri) oleate (Noveon Glucamate DOE 120, for example), PEG 150 pentaerytrityl tetrastearate (Croda's Crothix, for example); cellulose derivatives, such as in particular hydroxypropyl methyl cellulose (Klucel HF Pharm from Aqualon Hercules, for example); or poloxamers, such as in particular a condensate of ethylene oxide, propylene oxide and ethylene oxide (for example: 128 EO / 54 OP / 128 EO) (MW: 14000) sold under the name SYNPERONIC PE / F108 by Uniquema (INCI name: Poloxamer 338); or acrylic homo- and copolymers and homo- and copolymers of acrylamido methylpropanesulphonic acid (AMPS: Ammonium polyacryloyldimethyl taurate (for example: Hostacerin AMPS de Clahant).
La quantité de gélifiants dans les compositions peut varier dans une large mesure, elle est de préférence comprise entre 0,01 et 10% en poids, préférentiellement entre 0,5 et 5%, par rapport au poids total de la composition concernée.The amount of gelling agent in the compositions may vary to a large extent, it is preferably between 0.01 and 10% by weight, preferably between 0.5 and 5%, relative to the total weight of the composition concerned.
On pourra également associer dans les compositions selon l'invention des additifs et/ou actifs cosmétiques ou dermatologiques.It is also possible to combine in the compositions according to the invention additives and / or cosmetic or dermatological active agents.
II pourra ainsi être avantageux d'utiliser des tensioactifs moussants.It may thus be advantageous to use foaming surfactants.
Les tensioactifs moussants sont des détergents et se différencient des tensioactifs émulsionnants par la valeur de leur HLB (Hydrophilic Lipophilic balance), le HLB étant le rapport entre la partie hydrophile et la partie lipophile dans la molécule. Le terme HLB est bien connu de l'homme du métier et est décrit par exemple dans "The HLB System. A time-saving guide to Emulsifier Sélection" (publié par ICI Americas Inc ; 1984).Foaming surfactants are detergents and are distinguished from emulsifying surfactants by the value of their HLB (Hydrophilic Lipophilic Balance), the HLB being the ratio between the hydrophilic part and the lipophilic part in the molecule. The term HLB is well known to those skilled in the art and is described, for example, in "The HLB System, A time-saving guide to Emulsifier Selection" (published by ICI Americas Inc, 1984).
Pour les tensioactifs émulsionnants, le HLB va généralement de 3 à 8 pour la préparation des émulsions eau-dans-huile (E/H) et de 8 à 18 pour la préparation des émulsions huile-dans-eau (H/E), alors que les tensioactifs moussants ont généralement un HLB supérieur à 20.For emulsifying surfactants, the HLB generally ranges from 3 to 8 for the preparation of water-in-oil (W / O) emulsions and from 8 to 18 for the preparation of oil-in-water (O / W) emulsions, while foaming surfactants generally have an HLB greater than 20.
Avantageusement, les compositions selon l'invention peuvent comprendre un tensioactif ayant un HLB supérieur à 20.Advantageously, the compositions according to the invention may comprise a surfactant having an HLB greater than 20.
Le tensioactif peut être présent dans une composition de l'ensemble selon l'invention en une quantité allant de 0,1 à 50 % en poids, de préférence de 0,5 à 35 % en poids, préférentiellement allant de 0,5 à 20 % en poids, en particulier de 1 à 15 % en poids, voire de 5 à 10 % en poids, par rapport au poids total de la composition concernée. Les tensioactifs non ioniques peuvent être choisis par exemple parmi les alkyl polyglucosides (APG), les esters de maltose, les alcools gras polyglycérolés, les dérivés de glucamine comme l'éthyl-2 hexyl oxy-carbonyl n-méthyl glucamine, et leurs mélanges.The surfactant may be present in a composition of the combination according to the invention in an amount ranging from 0.1 to 50% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 35% by weight, preferably ranging from 0.5 to 20% by weight. % by weight, in particular from 1 to 15% by weight, or even 5 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition concerned. The nonionic surfactants may be chosen for example from alkyl polyglucosides (APG), maltose esters, polyglycerolated fatty alcohols, glucamine derivatives such as 2-ethylhexyloxycarbonyl-n-methylglucamine, and mixtures thereof.
Comme alkylpolyglucosides, on utilise de préférence ceux contenant un groupe alkyle comportant de 6 à 30 atomes de carbone et de préférence de 8 à 16 atomes de carbone, et contenant un groupe hydrophile (glucoside) comprenant de préférence 1 , 2 à 3 unités de glucoside. Comme alkylpolyglucosides, on peut citer par exemple le décylglucoside (Alkyl-C9/C11 -polyglucoside (1.4)) comme le produit commercialisé sous la dénomination MYDOL 10® par la société Kao Chemicals, le produit commercialisé sous la dénomination PLANTAREN 2000 UP® par la société Cognis, et le produit commercialisé sous la dénomination ORAMIX NS 10 ® par la société Seppic ; le caprylyl/capryl glucoside comme le produit commercialisé sous la dénomination ORAMIX CG 110® par la Société Seppic ; le laurylglucoside comme les produits commercialisés sous les dénominations PLANTAREN 1200 N® et PLANTACARE 1200® par la société Cognis ; le coco-glucoside comme le produit commercialisé sous la dénomination PLANTACARE 818/UP® par la société Cognis ; et leurs mélanges.As alkylpolyglucosides, use is preferably made of those containing an alkyl group containing from 6 to 30 carbon atoms and preferably from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and containing a hydrophilic group (glucoside) preferably comprising 1, 2 to 3 glucoside units. . As alkylpolyglucosides include eg decyl glucoside (Alkyl-C9 / C11 -polyglucoside (1.4)) as the product sold under the name Mydol 10 ® by Kao Chemicals, the product sold under the name Plantaren 2000 UP ® by Cognis and the product sold under the name Oramix NS 10 ® by Seppic; caprylyl / capryl glucoside such as the product sold under the name Oramix CG 110 ® by the company Seppic; lauryl glucoside such as the products marketed under the names Plantaren 1200 N ® and 1200 ® PLANTACARE by Cognis; coco-glucoside as the product sold under the name PLANTACARE 818 / UP ® by Cognis; and their mixtures.
Les dérivés de maltose sont par exemple ceux décrits dans le document EP-A- 566438, tels que l'O-octanoyl-6'-D-maltose, ou encore le O-dodecanoyl-6'-D- maltose décrit dans le document FR-2,739,556. Parmi les alcools gras polyglycérolés on peut citer le dodécanediol polyglycérolé (3,5 moles de glycérol), produit commercialisé sous la dénomination CHIMEXANE NF® par la société Chimex.The maltose derivatives are, for example, those described in document EP-A-566438, such as O-octanoyl-6'-D-maltose, or else O-dodecanoyl-6'-D-maltose described in document FR-2739556. Among the polyglycerolated fatty alcohols include polyglycerolated dodecanediol (3.5 mol of glycerol), a product sold under the name Chimexane ® NF by Chimex.
Les tensioactifs anioniques peuvent être choisis par exemple parmi les savons (sels alcalins d'acides gras), les carboxylates, les acylaminoacides, les amidoéther-carboxylates, les alkyl polyaminocarboxylates, les alkyl éthers sulfates tels que les Sodium Laureth sulfates, les alkyl sulfonates, les iséthionates, les alkyl méthyltaurates, les alkyl sulfosuccinates, les alkylsulfoacétates, les alkylphosphates (mono ou dialkyl phosphates), leurs sels, et leurs mélanges.The anionic surfactants may be chosen for example from soaps (alkaline salts of fatty acids), carboxylates, acylamino acids, amidoether carboxylates, alkyl polyaminocarboxylates, alkyl ether sulfates such as sodium laureth sulphates, alkyl sulphonates, isethionates, alkyl methyltaurates, alkyl sulfosuccinates, alkylsulfoacetates, alkylphosphates (mono or dialkyl phosphates), their salts, and mixtures thereof.
Comme carboxylates, on peut citer notamment les acides alkyl glycol carboxyliques (ou acides 2-(2-Hydroxyalkyloxy acétique), et leurs sels tels que par exemple le lauryl glycol carboxylate de sodium, commercialisé sous les dénominations BEAULIGHT SHAA® ou BEAULIGHT LCA-25N® par la société SANYO (nom CTFA : Sodium Lauryl Glycol Carboxylate), ou sa forme acide correspondante commercialisée sous la dénomination BEAULIGHT SHAA (Acid Form)® par la société SANYO. Comme acylaminoacides, on peut citer par exemple le cocoylglycinate de sodium commercialisé par la société Ajinomoto sous la dénomination Amilite GCS 12, le lauroyl glutamate de sodium commercialisé par la société Ajinomoto sous la dénomination Amisoft LS11 et le lauroyl sarcosinate de sodium commercialisé par la société Seppic sous la dénomination ORAMIX L 30. Comme alkylphosphates, on peut citer par exemple le laurylphosphate commercialisé par la société Kao sous la dénomination MAP 20.As carboxylates, mention may be made especially alkyl glycol carboxylic acids (or acid 2- (2-hydroxyalkyloxy acetic acid), and their salts such as for example sodium lauryl glycol carboxylate, sold under the names Beaulight SHAA ® or Beaulight LCA-25N ® by the company SANYO (CTFA name: Sodium Lauryl Glycol Carboxylate), or its corresponding acid form sold under the name BEAULIGHT SHAA (Acid Form) ® by the company SANYO As acylamino acids, mention may be made, for example, of sodium cocoylglycinate sold by the Ajinomoto company under the name Amilite GCS 12, the sodium lauroyl glutamate marketed by Ajinomoto under the name Amisoft LS11 and the sodium lauroyl sarcosinate sold by the company Seppic under the name ORAMIX L 30. As alkylphosphates, mention may be made of for example lauryl phosphate sold by Kao under the name MAP 20.
Les tensioactifs moussants amphotères et zwittehoniques peuvent être choisis par exemple parmi les dérivés de bétaïnes dont les amidopropylbétaïnes, les amphoacétates et les amphodiacétates, les hydroxylsultaines et leurs mélanges.The amphoteric and zwitterionic foaming surfactants may be chosen, for example, from betaine derivatives including amidopropylbetaines, amphoacetates and amphodiacetates, hydroxylsultaines and their mixtures.
Comme dérivés de bétaïnes, on peut citer par exemple la cocobétaïne comme le produit commercialisé sous la dénomination DEHYTON AB-30® par la société Cognis ; la laurylbétaïne comme le produit commercialisé sous la dénomination GENAGEN KB® par la société Clariant ; la laurylbétaïne oxyéthylénée (10 OE), comme le produit commercialisé sous la dénomination LAURYLETHER(10 OE)BETAINE® par la société Shin Nihon Rica ; la stéarylbétaïne oxyéthylénée (10 OE) comme le produit commercialisé sous la dénomination STEARYLETHER(10 OE)BETAINE® par la société Shin Nihon Rica ; la cocamidopropyl betaïne commercialisé par exemple sous la dénomination VELVETEX BK 35® par la société Cognis ; le undécylenamidopropyl betaïne commercialisé par exemple sous la dénomination AMPHORAM U® par la société Ceca ; et leurs mélanges. Comme amphoacétates et amphodiacétates, on peut citer par exemple le N- cocoyl-N-carboxyméthoxyéthyl-N-carboxyméthyl-éthylènediamine N-di-sodique (nom CTFA: disodium cocamphodiacetate) comme le produit commercialisé sous la dénomination MIRANOL C2M CONCENTRE NP® par la société Rhodia Chimie ; le N-cocoyl-N-hydroxyéthyl-N-carboxyméthyl-éthylènediamine N- sodique (nom CTFA : sodium cocamphoacetate) et leurs mélanges. Selon un mode de réalisation de l'invention, un tensioactif convenant à l'invention peut être choisi parmi les alkylpolyglucosides, les dérivés de bétaïne, les acides alkyl glycol carboxyliques et leurs sels, les alkyl éthers sulfates, les alkylphosphates, les amphodiacétates, les amphoacétates, les alkylglycinates, les acyls glutamates, les acyls sarcosinates et des mélanges de ceux-ci. Selon un mode de réalisation, un tensioactif convenant à l'invention peut être choisi parmi le décyl glucoside, le cocoyl glucoside, le lauryl éthersulfate de sodium, le cocoyl bétaïne, la lauroyl bétaïne, la cocamidopropyl bétaïne, la lauramido propylbétaïne, le lauryl glycol carboxylate, le cocoampho(di)acétate, le lauroampho(di)acétate, le lauryl phosphate de potassium, un mélange de ceux-ci.As betaine derivatives include for example the coco betaine as the product sold under the name DEHYTON AB-30 ® by Cognis; lauryl such as the product sold under the name Genagen KB ® by Clariant; oxyethylenated (10 EO) as the product sold under the name Lauryl Ether (10 EO) Betaine ® by Shin Nihon Rica; oxyethylenated (10 EO) as the product sold under the name Stearyl Ether (10 EO) Betaine ® by Shin Nihon Rica; cocamidopropyl betaine marketed for example under the name VELVETEX BK 35 ® by Cognis; the undecylenamidopropyl betaine sold, for example under the name Amphoram U ® by Ceca; and their mixtures. As amphoacetates and amphodiacetates, there may be mentioned for example N-cocoyl-N-carboxymethoxyethyl-N-carboxymethyl-N-ethylenediamine disodium (CTFA name: disodium cocamphodiacetate) as the product sold under the name MIRANOL C2M CONC ® NP by the Rhodia Chimie company; N-cocoyl-N-hydroxyethyl-N-carboxymethyl-ethylenediamine N-sodium (CTFA name: sodium cocamphoacetate) and mixtures thereof. According to one embodiment of the invention, a surfactant that is suitable for the invention may be chosen from alkylpolyglucosides, betaine derivatives, alkylglycol carboxylic acids and their salts, alkyl ether sulfates, alkylphosphates, amphodiacetates, amphoacetates, alkylglycinates, acyls glutamates, acyls sarcosinates and mixtures thereof. According to one embodiment, a surfactant that is suitable for the invention may be chosen from decyl glucoside, cocoyl glucoside, sodium lauryl ether sulfate, cocoyl betaine, lauroyl betaine, cocamidopropyl betaine, lauramido propylbetaine and lauryl glycol. carboxylate, cocoampho (di) acetate, lauroampho (di) acetate, potassium lauryl phosphate, a mixture thereof.
Comme tensioactifs moussants préférés, on peut citer :Preferred foaming surfactants include:
- le sodium cocoyl isethionate, tel que le mélange cocoyl isethionate de sodium/ isethionoate de sodium commercialisé par BASF sous la dénomination JORDAPON Cl P® ; - le decyl glucoside, tel que le PLANTACARE 2000 UP® commercialisé par Cognis ;- sodium cocoyl isethionate, such as the mixture sodium cocoyl isethionate / sodium isethionoate marketed by BASF under the name Jordapon CI P ®; - decyl glucoside, such as the Plantacare 2000 UP ® marketed by Cognis;
- le potassium laurate, tel que le LAURATE DE POTASSIUM DUB LK® commercialisé par la société Stearinerie Dubois ;- potassium laurate, such as LAURATE Potassium DUB LK ® marketed by Stearinerie Dubois;
- le Sodium lauroyl OAT amino acids, tel que la solution aqueuse à 30% de lauroyl amino acides d'avoine, sous forme de sel de sodium protégé (1 ,4% de phenonip) commercialisé sous la dénomination PROTEOL OAT® par Seppic ; - le potassium lauroyl wheat amino acids, tel que le potassium-lauroyl protéine de blé hydrolysée dans l'eau à 25% stabilisée (phenonip- sorbate de potassium 0,4-0,4%), commercialisé sous la dénomination AMINOFOAM W OR® par Croda ; - le polyglyceryl-3 hydroxylauryl ether ou dodecanediol polyglycérolé (3,5 moles de glycérol), tel que le CHIMEXANE® de Chimex ;- Sodium lauroyl OAT amino acids, such as aqueous 30% solution of lauroyl oat amino acids of the form of protected sodium salt (1, 4% phenonip) sold under the name Proteol OAT ® by Seppic; potassium lauroyl wheat amino acids, such as potassium-lauroyl wheat protein hydrolyzed in water at 25% stabilized (0.4-0.4% potassium phenon-sorbate), marketed under the name AMINOFOAM W OR ® by Croda; - polyglyceryl-3 hydroxylauryl ether or dodecanediol polyglycerolated (3.5 mol of glycerol), such as Chimexane ® from Chimex;
- le lauryl éther sulfate de sodium, tel que le TEXAPON AOS 225 UP® de Cognis ;- sodium lauryl ether sulfate, such as Texapon ® AOS 225 UP Cognis;
- le N-cocoyl-N-carboxyméthoxyéthyl-N-carboxyméthyl-éthylènediamine N-di- sodique (nom CTFA: disodium cocamphodiacetate) comme le produit commercialisé sous la dénomination MIRANOL C2M CONCENTRE NP® par la société Rhodia Chimie ;- N-cocoyl-N-carboxymethoxyethyl-N-carboxymethyl-N-di sodium ethylene diamine (CTFA name: disodium cocamphodiacetate) as the product sold under the name Miranol C2M Concentrate ® NP by the company Rhodia Chimie;
- le coco betaine ou cocoyl betaine en solution aqueuse, tel que le MIRATAINE BB/FLA de Rhodia; - le Peg-7 glyceryl cocoate ou cocoate de glyceryle oxyethyléné (7 OE), tel que le CETIOL HE® de Cognis;cocaine betaine or cocoyl betaine in aqueous solution, such as Rhodia's MIRATAINE BB / FLA; - PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate or glyceryl cocoate oxyethylenated (7 EO), such as Cetiol ® HE from Cognis;
- le lauryl betaine tel que le lauryl dimethylamine betaine en solution aqueuse à 30%, commercialisé sous la dénomination EMPIGEN BB/LS® par la société Huntsman ; - le sodium cocoamphoacetate, tel que le N-cocyl amidoethyl, N-hydroxyethyl glycinate de sodium en solution aqueuse à 32% commercialisé sous la dénomination MIRANOL ULTRA C 32® par Rhodia;- lauryl betaine as lauryldimethylamine betaine in 30% aqueous solution, sold under the name Empigen BB / LS ® by Huntsman; - sodium cocoamphoacetate, such as N-cocyl amidoethyl, N-hydroxyethyl sodium glycinate in 32% aqueous solution sold under the name MIRANOL ULTRA C 32 ® by Rhodia;
- le lauryl sulfate de théthanolamine ou TEA-lauryl sulfate, tel que le lauryl sulfate de théthanolamine (C12/C14 70/30) en solution aqueuse à 40% commercialisé sous la dénomination TEXAPON T 42® par Cognis ;- lauryl sulfate triethanolamine or TEA lauryl sulphate, such as triethanolamine lauryl sulphate (70/30 C12 / C14) in 40% aqueous solution sold under the name TEXAPON ® T 42 by Cognis;
- le lauryl glycol carboxylate de sodium, commercialisé sous les dénominations BEAULIGHT SHAA® ou BEAULIGHT LCA-25N® par la société SANYO (nom CTFA : Sodium Lauryl Glycol Carboxylate), ou sa forme acide correspondante commercialisée sous la dénomination BEAULIGHT SHAA (Acid Form) ® par la société SANYO ;- sodium lauryl glycol carboxylate, sold under the names Beaulight SHAA ® or Beaulight LCA-25N ® by the company Sanyo (CTFA name: Sodium Lauryl Glycol Carboxylate) or its corresponding acid form sold under the name Beaulight SHAA (Acid Form) ® by SANYO;
- le laurylphosphate commercialisé par la société Kao sous la dénomination MAP 20® ; - le cocoyl glycinate de sodium, tel que le AMILITE GCS® 12 d'Ajinomoto.- lauryl phosphate sold by Kao under the name MAP 20 ®; - sodium cocoyl glycinate, such as Amilite GCS ® 12 from Ajinomoto.
On peut également utiliser dans les compositions de l'ensemble selon l'invention des particules exfoliantes, des charges ou leurs mélanges.Exfoliating particles, fillers or mixtures thereof can also be used in the compositions of the assembly according to the invention.
Comme particules exfoliantes, on peut utiliser des particules exfoliantes ou gommantes d'origine minérale, végétale ou organique. Ainsi, on peut utiliser par exemple les billes ou la poudre de polyéthylène, comme celles commercialisées sous la dénomination Microthene MN 727 ou Microthene MN 710-20 par la société Equistar ou comme la poudre commercialisée sous la dénomination Gotalene 120 Incolore 2 par la société Dupont ; les particules de Nylon comme celles commercialisées par la société Arkema sous la dénomination Orgasol 2002 EXD NAT COS ; les fibres comme les fibres de polyamide, comme celles commercialisées par la société Utexbel sous la dénomination PULPE POLYAMIDE 12185 TAILLE 0,3 MM ; la poudre de polychlorure de vinyle ; la pierre ponce (nom INCI : pumice) comme le ponce 3/B d'Eyraud ; les coques de noyaux de fruits broyées comme les broyats de noyaux d'abricots ou de coques de noix ; la sciure de bois ; les billes de verre ; l'alumine (oxyde d'aluminium) (nom INCI : Alumina) comme le produit commercialisé sous la dénomination Dermagrain 900 par la société Marketech International ; les cristaux de sucre ; des billes qui fondent lors de l'application sur la peau, telles que par exemple, les sphères à base de mannitol et cellulose commercialisées sous les dénominations Unisphères par la société Induchem, les capsules à base d'agar commercialisées sous les dénominations Primasponge par la société Cognis, et les sphères à base d'esters de jojoba commercialisées sous les dénominations Florasphères par la société Floratech ; et leurs mélanges.As exfoliating particles, exfoliating or exfoliating particles of mineral, vegetable or organic origin may be used. Thus, it is possible to use, for example, the balls or the polyethylene powder, such as those sold under the name Microthene MN 727 or Microthene MN 710-20 by the company Equistar or the powder marketed under the name Gotalene 120 Incolore 2 by the Dupont company. ; nylon particles such as those sold by Arkema under the name Orgasol 2002 EXD NAT COS; fibers such as polyamide fibers, such as those sold by the company Utexbel under the name Polymamide PULP 12185 SIZE 0.3 MM; polyvinyl chloride powder; pumice stone (INCI name: pumice) such as Eyraud's pumice 3 / B; hulls of crushed fruit stones such as crushed apricot kernels or nut hulls; sawdust; glass beads; alumina (aluminum oxide) (INCI name: Alumina) as the product marketed under the name Dermagrain 900 by Marketech International; sugar crystals; beads which melt during application to the skin, such as, for example, spheres based on mannitol and cellulose sold under the names Unisphères by Induchem, agar capsules sold under the names Primasponge by the Cognis company, and spheres based on jojoba esters marketed under the names Florasphères by Floratech; and their mixtures.
Les compositions de l'ensemble selon l'invention peuvent aussi contenir d'autres charges telles que, par exemple, le talc, l'amidon modifié ou non, et notamment les amidons estérifiés par l'anhydride octénylsuccinique et plus particulièrement le "Aluminium Starch octenyl succinate" tel que le produit commercialisé par la société National Starch sous le nom de Dry-Flo. Selon un mode avantageux, les compositions de l'ensemble selon l'invention contiennent au moins une charge.The compositions of the assembly according to the invention may also contain other fillers such as, for example, talc, modified starch or not, and in particular starches esterified with octenylsuccinic anhydride and more particularly "Aluminum Starch". octenyl succinate "such as the product marketed by National Starch under the name Dry-Flo. According to an advantageous embodiment, the compositions of the assembly according to the invention contain at least one filler.
Ces charges peuvent être tout matériau susceptible de masquer les irrégularités visibles ou tactiles de la peau. Ces charges peuvent notamment modifier l'aspect de surface de la peau par un effet tenseur, un effet de camouflage, ou un effet de floutage. En tant que charge, on peut donner à titre d'exemples les composés suivants :These fillers can be any material that can mask the visible or tactile irregularities of the skin. These fillers can in particular modify the surface appearance of the skin by a tightening effect, a camouflage effect, or a blurring effect. As filler, the following compounds may be exemplified:
- les microparticules poreuses de silice comme par exemple les Silica Beads® SB 150 et SB 700 de Myochi de taille moyenne de 5 μm et les SUNSPHERES® série H d'Asahi Glass comme les H33, H51 de taille respectivement de 3,5 et 5 μm.- porous silica microparticles such as Silica Beads ® SB 150 and SB 700 medium size Myochi 5 .mu.m and SUNSPHERES H ® series from Asahi Glass, H33, H51 size of respectively 3.5 and 5 .mu.m.
- les particules hémisphériques creuses de résines de silicones comme les NLK 500®, NLK 506® et NLK 510® de Takemoto OiI and Fat, notamment décrites dans EP-A-1579849,- hollow hemispherical silicone resin particles such as NLK 500 ®, NLK 506 ® and 510 ® Takemoto NLK OII and Fat, in particular described in EP-A-1579849,
- les poudres de résine de silicone comme par exemple les SILICON Resin Tospearl® 145 A DE GE silicone de taille moyenne de 4,5 μm.- silicone resin powders such as silicone resin Tospearl ® 145 from GE Silicone average size of 4.5 .mu.m.
- les poudres de copolymères acryliques, notamment de poly(meth)acrylate de méthyle comme par exemple les particules PMMA Jurimer MBI® de Nihon Junyoki de taille moyenne de 8 μm, les sphères creuses de PMMA vendues sous la dénomination COVABEAD® LH 85 par la société Wackherr et les microsphères de vinylidène/acrylonitrile/méthacrylates de méthylène expansées vendues sous la dénomination Expancel®.- powders of acrylic copolymers, especially poly (meth) acrylate such as PMMA particles Jurimer MBI ® Nihon Junyoki average size of 8 .mu.m, hollow PMMA spheres marketed under the name Covabead ® LH 85 by Wackherr company and expanded vinylidene / acrylonitrile / methylene methacrylate microspheres sold under the name Expancel ® .
- les poudres de cires comme les particules Paraffin wax microloase® 114S de Micropowders de taille moyenne de 7 μm.- powders of waxes such as paraffin wax particles microloase ® 114S Medium sized MicroPowders 7 .mu.m.
- les poudres de polyéthylènes notamment comprenant au moins un copolymère éthylène/acide acrylique comme par exemple les FLOBEADS® EA 209 E de Sumimoto de taille moyenne de 10 μm.- the particular polyethylene powders comprising at least one ethylene / acrylic acid such as ® Flobeads EA 209 E Medium sized Sumimoto 10 .mu.m.
- les poudres d'organopolysiloxanes élastomériques réticulées enrobées de résine de silicone notamment de silsesquioxane sous la dénomination KSPcrosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxane powders coated with silicone resin, in particular silsesquioxane under the name KSP
100®, KSP 101®, KSP 102®, KSP 103®, KSP 104® et KSP 105® par la société Shin Etsu. - les poudres composites de talc/dioxyde ou de titane/alumine/silice comme par exemple les Cverleaf AR 80® de la société Catalyst & Chemical.100 ® , KSP 101 ® , KSP 102 ® , KSP 103 ® , KSP 104 ® and KSP 105 ® by Shin Etsu. talc / dioxide or titanium / alumina / silica composite powders, for example the Cverleaf AR 80 ® from Catalyst & Chemical.
- le talc, le mica, le kaolin, la lauryl glycine, les poudres d'amidon réticulés par l'anhydride octéanyl succinate, le nitrure de bore, les poudres de polytétrafluoroéthylène, le carbonate de calcium précipité, le carbonate de l'hydrocarbonate de magnésium, le sulfate de baryum, l'hydroxyapatite, le silicate de calcium, le dioxyde de cérium et les microcapsules de verre ou de céramiques.talc, mica, kaolin, lauryl glycine, starch powders crosslinked with octyanyl succinate anhydride, boron nitride, polytetrafluoroethylene powders, precipitated calcium carbonate, hydrocarbon carbonate, magnesium, barium sulfate, hydroxyapatite, calcium silicate, cerium dioxide and microcapsules of glass or ceramics.
- les fibres hydrophiles ou hydrophobes synthétiques ou naturelles, minérales ou organiques telles que des fibres de soie, de coton, de laine, de lin, de cellulose extraites notamment du bois, des légumes ou des algues, de polyamide (Nylon®), de cellulose modifiée, de poly-p-phénylène téréphtamide, en acrylique, de polyoléfine, de verre, de silice, d'aramide, de carbone, de polytétrafluoroéthylène (Téflon®), de collagène insoluble, de polyesters, de polychlorure de vinyle ou de vinylidène, d'alcool polyvinylique, de polyacrylonitrile, de chitosane, de polyuréthane, de polyéthylène phtalate, des fibres formées d'un mélange de polymères, les fibres synthétiques résorbables, et leurs mélanges décrites dans la demande de brevet EP 1 151 742.- the hydrophilic fibers or natural or synthetic hydrophobic, inorganic or organic such as silk fibers, cotton, wool, flax fiber, cellulose fibers extracted especially from wood, vegetables or algae, polyamide (Nylon ®), of modified cellulose, poly-p-phenyleneterephthalamide fibers, acrylic fibers, polyolefin fibers, glass, silica, aramid, carbon, polytetrafluoroethylene (Teflon ®), insoluble collagen, polyester, polyvinyl chloride or vinylidene, polyvinyl alcohol, polyacrylonitrile, chitosan, polyurethane, polyethylene phthalate, fibers formed from a mixture of polymers, synthetic resorbable fibers, and mixtures thereof described in patent application EP 1 151 742.
- les silicones réticulés élastomères sphériques comme comme les Trefil E- 505C® ou E-506 C® de chez Dow Corning.- the spherical elastomeric crosslinked silicones such as Trefil E- 505C E-506 ® or C ® from Dow Corning.
- les charges abrasives qui par effet mécanique apportent un lissage du microrelief cutané, telles que la silice abrasive comme par exemple Abrasif SP® de Semanez ou des poudres de noix ou de coques (abricot, noix par exemple de Cosmétochem).- abrasive fillers, which via a mechanical effect a smoothing of the skin's microrelief, such as abrasive silica such as abrasive SP ® of Semanez or powders nuts or shells (apricot or walnut e.g. Cosmetochem).
La charge peut être une charge « soft focus ». Par charge « soft-focus », on entend une charge qui en plus donne de la transparence au teint et un effet flou. De préférence, les charges « soft-focus » ont une taille moyenne des particules inférieure ou égale à 15 microns. Ces particules peuvent être de toutes formes et en particulier être sphériques ou non sphériques. De préférence encore, ces charges sont non sphériques. Les charges « soft-focus » peuvent être choisies parmi les poudres de silice et silicates, notamment d'alumine, les poudres de type polyméthyl méthacrylate (PMMA), le talc, les composites silice/Tiθ2 ou silice/oxyde de zinc, les poudres de polyéthylène, les poudres d'amidon, les poudres de polyamides, les poudres de copolymères styrène/acrylique, les élastomères de silicone, et leurs mélanges.The charge can be a "soft focus" charge. By "soft-focus" load, we mean a load which in addition gives transparency to the complexion and a fuzzy effect. Preferably, the "soft-focus" charges have an average particle size of less than or equal to 15 microns. These particles can be of any shape and in particular be spherical or nonspherical. More preferably, these fillers are nonspherical. The "soft-focus" fillers may be chosen from silica and silicate powders, in particular alumina powders, polymethyl methacrylate (PMMA) type powders, talc, silica / TiO 2 or silica / zinc oxide composites, and powders. polyethylene, starch powders, polyamide powders, styrene / acrylic copolymer powders, silicone elastomers, and mixtures thereof.
En particulier, on peut citer le talc de taille moyenne en nombre inférieure ou égale à 3 microns, par exemple du talc de taille moyenne en nombre de 1 ,8 micron et notamment celui vendu sous la dénomination commerciale Talc P3® par la société Nippon Talc, la poudre de Nylon® 12, notamment celle vendue sous le dénomination Orgasol 2002 Extra D Nat Cos® par la société Atochem, les particules de silice traitées en surface par une cire minérale 1 à 2 % (nom INCI : hydrated silica (and) paraffin) telles que celles commercialisées par la société Degussa, les microsphères de silice amorphe, telles que celles vendues sous la dénomination Sunsphère par exemple de référence H-53® par la société Asahi Glass, et les micro-billes de silice telles que celles vendues sous la dénomination SB-700®ou SB-150® par la société Miyoshi, cette liste n'étant pas limitative.In particular, include talc medium of less than or equal to 3 microns, for example medium talc number of 1, 8 microns and especially the product sold under the trade name Talc P3 ® by Nippon Talc , Nylon ® 12 powder, in particular that sold under the name Orgasol 2002 Extra D Nat Cos ® by the company Atochem, silica particles treated on the surface with a mineral wax 1 to 2% (INCI name: hydrated silica (and) paraffin) such as those marketed by Degussa, amorphous silica microspheres, such as those sold under the name Sunsphere, for example H-53 ® reference by Asahi Glass company, and silica microbeads such as those sold under the name SB- 700® or SB- 150® by Miyoshi, this list is not limiting.
Ces particules exfoliantes et charges peuvent être présentes en une quantité allant par exemple de 0,5 à 20 % en poids, de préférence de 1 à 15 % en poids, mieux de 1 à 10 % et encore mieux de 2 à 5 % en poids par rapport au poids total de la composition.These exfoliating particles and fillers may be present in an amount ranging, for example, from 0.5 to 20% by weight, preferably from 1 to 15% by weight, better still from 1 to 10% and even more preferably from 2 to 5% by weight. relative to the total weight of the composition.
Les compositions de l'ensemble selon l'invention peuvent également comprendre tous les constituants usuellement employés dans l'application envisagée. En particulier, de façon avantageuse, on pourra utiliser dans les compositions au moins un ingrédient et/ou un actif additionnel de soin de la peau, en particulier de la peau grasse.The compositions of the assembly according to the invention may also comprise all the constituents usually employed in the intended application. In particular, it is advantageous to use in the compositions at least one ingredient and / or an additional active skin care product, in particular oily skin.
On pourra notamment associer les actifs et ingrédients additionnels décrits dans la demande de brevet EP 1 847 247 , incorporée ici par référence, parmi lesquels les agents dépigmentants, les conservateurs, les agents antimicrobiens, les agents antitranspirants, les agents séborégulateurs, les chélateurs de métaux, les filtres UV, les protéines hydrolysées, les antioxydants, les vitamines, les agents anti-inflammatoires, les agents apaisants ou anti-irritants, les agents hydratants, les extraits végétaux, les adjuvants cosmétiques, et leurs mélanges.It will be possible to combine the additional active ingredients and ingredients described in patent application EP 1 847 247, incorporated herein by reference, among which include depigmenting agents, preservatives, antimicrobial agents, antiperspirants, sebum regulators, metal chelators, UV filters, hydrolysed proteins, antioxidants, vitamins, anti-inflammatory agents, soothing or anti-inflammatory agents irritants, moisturizing agents, plant extracts, cosmetic adjuvants, and mixtures thereof.
Bien entendu, l'homme du métier veillera à choisir ce ou ces éventuels composés complémentaires, et/ou leur quantité, de manière telle que les propriétés avantageuses d'ensemble selon l'invention ne soient pas, ou substantiellement pas, altérées par l'adjonction envisagée.Of course, those skilled in the art will take care to choose this or these optional additional compounds, and / or their quantity, in such a way that the advantageous overall properties according to the invention are not, or not substantially, impaired by the addition envisaged.
Dans un aspect avantageux de l'invention, les compositions utilisées peuvent comporter en plus au moins un agent desquamant et/ou au moins un agent apaisant.In an advantageous aspect of the invention, the compositions used may further comprise at least one desquamating agent and / or at least one soothing agent.
Par "agent desquamant", on entend tout composé capable d'agir :By "desquamating agent" is meant any compound capable of acting:
- soit directement sur la desquamation en favorisant l 'exfoliation, tel que les β- hydroxyacides, en particulier l'acide salicylique et ses dérivés (dont l'acide n- octanoyl 5-salicylique) ; les α-hydroxyacides, tels que les acides glycolique, citrique, lactique, tartrique, malique ou mandélique ; l'urée ; l'acide gentisique ; les oligofucoses ; l'acide cinnamique ; l'extrait de Saphora japonica ; le resvératrol ; pour les acides, on utilise de préférence leurs sels organiques ou inorganiques ; de préférence on utilise un sel de l'acide n-octanoyl 5- salicylique ;or directly on desquamation by promoting exfoliation, such as β-hydroxyacids, in particular salicylic acid and its derivatives (including n-octanoyl-5-salicylic acid); α-hydroxy acids, such as glycolic, citric, lactic, tartaric, malic or mandelic acids; urea; gentisic acid; oligofucoses; cinnamic acid; Saphora japonica extract; resveratrol; for the acids, their organic or inorganic salts are preferably used; a salt of n-octanoyl-5-salicylic acid is preferably used;
- soit sur les enzymes impliquées dans la desquamation ou la dégradation des cornéodesmosomes, les glycosidases, la stratum corneum chymotryptic enzym (SCCE) voire d'autres protéases (trypsine, chymotrypsine-like). On peut citer les agents chélatants des sels minéraux : l'EDTA ; l'acide N-acyl-N,N',N' éthylène diaminethacétique ; les composés aminosulfoniques et en particulier l'acide (N-2 hydroxyéthylpiperazine-N-2-éthane) sulfonique (HEPES) ; les dérivés de l'acide 2-oxothiazolidine-4-carboxylique (procystéine) ; les dérivés d'acides alpha aminés de type glycine (tels que décrits dans EP-O 852 949, ainsi que le méthyl glycine diacétate de sodium commercialisé par BASF sous la dénomination commerciale TRILON M) ; le miel ; les dérivés de sucre tels que l'O-octanoyl-6-D-maltose et la N-acétyl glucosamine.or on the enzymes involved in the desquamation or degradation of corneodesmosomes, glycosidases, stratum corneum chymotryptic enzyme (SCCE) or even other proteases (trypsin, chymotrypsin-like). Mention may be made of the chelating agents of mineral salts: EDTA; N-acyl-N, N ', N' ethylene diaminethacetic acid; aminosulfonic compounds and in particular (N-2-hydroxyethylpiperazine-N-2-ethane) sulfonic acid (HEPES); 2-oxothiazolidine-4-carboxylic acid derivatives (procysteine); drifts glycine-type alpha amino acids (as described in EP-0 852 949, as well as sodium methyl glycine diacetate marketed by BASF under the trade name TRILON M); honey ; sugar derivatives such as O-octanoyl-6-D-maltose and N-acetyl glucosamine.
Comme agents apaisants utilisables dans les compositions de l'ensemble selon l'invention, on peut citer : les triterpènes pentacycliques et les extraits de plantes (ex : Glycyrrhiza glabra) en contenant comme l'acide β-glycyrrhétinique et ses sels et/ou ses dérivés (l'acide glycyrrhétinique monoglucuronide, le stearyl glycyrrhetinate, l'acide 3- stéaroyloxy glycyrrhetique), l'acide ursolique et ses sels, l'acide oléanolique et ses sels, l'acide bétulinique et ses sels, un extrait de Paeonia suffruticosa et / ou lactiflora, les sels de l'acide salicylique et en particulier le salicylate de zinc, les phycosaccharides de la société Codif, un extrait de Laminaria saccharina, l'huile de Canola, le bisabolol et les extraits de camomille, l'allantoïne, le Sépivital EPC (diesterphosphorique de vitamine E et C) de Seppic, les huiles insaturées en oméga 3 telles que les huiles de rosier musca, de cassis, d'ecchium, de poisson, des extraits de plancton, la capryloyl glycine, le Seppicalm VG (sodium palmitoylproline et nymphéa alba) de Seppic, un extrait du Pygeum, un extrait de Boswellia serrata, un extrait de Centipeda cunnighami, un extrait d'Helianthus annuus, un extrait de Linum usitatissimum, les tocotrienols, les extraits de Cola nitida, le piperonal, un extrait de clou de girofle, un extrait d'Epilobium Angustifolium, l'aloe vera, un extrait de Bacopa moniera, les phytostérols, la cortisone, l'hydrocortisone, l'indométhacine et la beta méthasone.As soothing agents that can be used in the compositions of the assembly according to the invention, mention may be made of: pentacyclic triterpenes and plant extracts (eg Glycyrrhiza glabra) containing them, for example β-glycyrrhetinic acid and its salts and / or its derivatives (glycyrrhetinic acid monoglucuronide, stearyl glycyrrhetinate, 3-stearoyloxy glycyrrhetic acid), ursolic acid and its salts, oleanolic acid and its salts, betulinic acid and its salts, an extract of Paeonia suffruticosa and / or lactiflora, salts of salicylic acid and in particular zinc salicylate, phycosaccharides from Codif, an extract of Laminaria saccharina, canola oil, bisabolol and extracts of chamomile, allantoin SEPIC SEPIVITAL EPC (diesterphosphoric vitamin E and C), omega 3 unsaturated oils such as rosehip musk, black currant, ecchium, fish, plankton extract, capryloyl glycine, Sep picalm VG (sodium palmitoylproline and waterlily alba) of Seppic, an extract of Pygeum, an extract of Boswellia serrata, an extract of Centipeda cunnighami, an extract of Helianthus annuus, an extract of Linum usitatissimum, tocotrienols, extracts of Cola nitida , piperonal, clove extract, Epilobium Angustifolium extract, aloe vera, Bacopa moniera extract, phytosterols, cortisone, hydrocortisone, indomethacin and beta methasone.
Ces actifs seront généralement présents dans les compositions de l'ensemble selon l'invention en une teneur allant de 0,01 à 20% en poids, de préférence de 0,1 à 10% en poids par rapport au poids total de la composition.These active agents will generally be present in the compositions of the assembly according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.01% to 20% by weight and preferably from 0.1% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
L'homme du métier veillera à choisir parmi ces actifs ceux qui peuvent avoir une activité dans les conditions d'utilisation des compositions selon l'invention. Il veillera également à prendre soin que les actifs utilisés en leurs quantités ne perturbent pas les propriétés avantageuses des compositions constituant l'ensemble cosmétique selon l'invention, notamment en termes de pH.Those skilled in the art will take care to choose among these assets those which may have an activity in the conditions of use of the compositions according to the invention. It will also take care to ensure that the assets used in their do not disturb the advantageous properties of the compositions constituting the cosmetic assembly according to the invention, especially in terms of pH.
De préférence, les actifs seront incorporés dans la seconde composition de l'ensemble cosmétique, contenant l'activateur de la décomposition de H2O2, ou dans une composition additionnelle de l'ensemble cosmétique.Preferably, the active ingredients will be incorporated in the second composition of the cosmetic assembly, containing the activator of the H2O2 decomposition, or in an additional composition of the cosmetic assembly.
Les compositions de l'ensemble selon l'invention peuvent se présenter sous toutes les formes galéniques normalement utilisées dans les domaines cosmétique ou dermatologique, et compatibles avec les caractéristiques desdites compositions.The compositions of the assembly according to the invention may be in any galenical form normally used in the cosmetic or dermatological fields, and compatible with the characteristics of said compositions.
En particulier, la première composition est constituée de complexe polymère- H2O2, de préférence sous forme d'une poudre, à mélanger à la deuxième composition avant application. Dans ce cadre, la deuxième composition comprend au moins un activateur et un véhicule acceptable sur le plan cosmétique ou dermatologique.In particular, the first composition consists of polymer-H2O2 complex, preferably in the form of a powder, to be mixed with the second composition before application. In this context, the second composition comprises at least one activator and a cosmetically or dermatologically acceptable carrier.
Selon une autre variante, la première composition comprend au moins un complexe polymère-H2θ2 et un véhicule acceptable sur le plan cosmétique ou dermatologique, qui est mélangée à la deuxième composition. La deuxième composition dans cette variante peut être constituée d'un ou plusieurs activateurs, avantageusement sous forme de poudre.According to another variant, the first composition comprises at least one polymer-H 2 θ 2 complex and a cosmetically or dermatologically acceptable vehicle, which is mixed with the second composition. The second composition in this variant may consist of one or more activators, advantageously in powder form.
Selon encore une autre variante, la première composition comprend au moins un complexe polymère-H2θ2 et un véhicule anhydre acceptable sur le plan cosmétique ou dermatologique, qui est mélangée à la deuxième composition comprenant au moins un activateur et un véhicule acceptable sur le plan cosmétique ou dermatologique, ledit véhicule de la deuxième composition étant anhydre ou aqueux.According to yet another variant, the first composition comprises at least one polymer-H 2 θ 2 complex and a cosmetically or dermatologically acceptable anhydrous vehicle, which is mixed with the second composition comprising at least one activator and a vehicle that is acceptable on the plane. cosmetic or dermatological, said vehicle of the second composition being anhydrous or aqueous.
Les compositions de l'ensemble cosmétique de l'invention peuvent être plus ou moins fluides et avoir l'aspect d'une crème blanche ou colorée, d'une pommade, d'un lait, d'une lotion, d'un sérum, d'une pâte, ou d'une mousse.The compositions of the cosmetic assembly of the invention may be more or less fluid and have the appearance of a white or colored cream, an ointment, a milk, a lotion, a serum, a paste, or a mousse.
Elles peuvent éventuellement être appliquées sur la peau sous forme d'aérosol. Elles peuvent également se présenter sous forme solide, et par exemple sous forme de stick. Elles peuvent être utilisées comme produit de soin et/ou comme produit de maquillage.They can optionally be applied to the skin in the form of an aerosol. They can also be in solid form, and for example in the form of a stick. They can be used as a care product and / or as a makeup product.
Selon l'invention, les deux compositions de l'ensemble cosmétique peuvent être présentées sous des formes variées de produits cosmétiques, avec divers récipients, compartiments, éléments de fermeture, applicateurs, emballages, etc.According to the invention, the two compositions of the cosmetic assembly can be presented in various forms of cosmetic products, with various containers, compartments, closure elements, applicators, packaging, etc.
L'invention porte encore sur un ensemble de conditionnement comprenant : i. un premier compartiment contenant une première composition contenant un complexe polymère-H2θ2, ii. un second compartiment contenant une seconde composition contenant au moins un activateur favorisant la décomposition de H2O2, ledit second compartiment étant isolé de manière étanche du premier, et iii. des moyens pour permettre la mise en contact notamment extemporanée des deux compositions.The invention further relates to a packaging assembly comprising: i. a first compartment containing a first composition containing a polymer-H 2 θ 2 complex, ii. a second compartment containing a second composition containing at least one activator promoting the decomposition of H 2 O 2 , said second compartment being sealed from the first, and iii. means for allowing the contacting, in particular extemporaneous, of the two compositions.
La première et la deuxième composition de l'ensemble de conditionnement sont telles que définies ci-dessus.The first and second composition of the packaging assembly are as defined above.
Un tel ensemble permet avantageusement la mise en contact extemporanée de ses deux compositions, conditionnées séparément dans respectivement les premier et second compartiments formant ledit ensemble.Such a set advantageously allows the extemporaneous contact of its two compositions, separately packaged respectively in the first and second compartments forming said assembly.
Cet ensemble peut être également muni de moyens permettant la mise en communication des premier et second compartiments et donc de leurs contenus respectifs.This set may also be provided with means allowing the communication of the first and second compartments and therefore of their respective contents.
L'ensemble est également avantageusement muni d'un moyen propice à la distribution du mélange des deux compositions. Plus précisément, les première et seconde compositions pour la mise en œuvre de l'invention sont conditionnées séparément à l'intérieur de deux compartiments, formés soit par deux récipients distincts, soit à l'intérieur d'un dispositif unitaire.The assembly is also advantageously provided with a means conducive to the distribution of the mixture of the two compositions. More specifically, the first and second compositions for the implementation of the invention are packaged separately inside two compartments, formed either by two separate containers or inside a unitary device.
Le ou les récipient(s) peu(ven)t être sous toute forme adéquate. ll(s) peu(ven)t être notamment sous forme d'un flacon, d'un tube, d'un pot, d'un étui, d'une boite, d'un sachet ou d'un boîtier.The container (s) may be in any suitable form. It may be in particular in the form of a bottle, a tube, a jar, a case, a box, a bag or a case.
L'élément de fermeture du(des) récipient(s) peut être sous forme d'un bouchon amovible, d'un couvercle, d'un opercule, d'une bande déchirable, ou d'une capsule, notamment du type comportant un corps fixé au récipient et une casquette articulée sur le corps. Il peut être également sous forme d'un élément assurant la fermeture sélective du récipient, notamment une pompe, une valve, ou un clapet.The closure element of the container (s) may be in the form of a removable cap, a lid, a lid, a tearable strip, or a capsule, in particular of the type comprising a body attached to the container and an articulated cap on the body. It can also be in the form of an element ensuring the selective closure of the container, including a pump, a valve, or a valve.
Le récipient peut être associé à un applicateur. L'applicateur peut être sous forme d'un pinceau, tel que décrit par exemple dans le brevet FR 2 722 380. L'applicateur peut être sous forme d'un bloc de mousse ou d'élastomère, d'un feutre, ou d'une spatule. L'applicateur peut être libre (houppette ou éponge) ou solidaire d'une tige portée par l'élément de fermeture, tel que décrit par exemple dans le brevet US 5 492 426. L'applicateur peut être solidaire du récipient, tel que décrit par exemple dans le brevet FR 2 761 959.The container may be associated with an applicator. The applicator may be in the form of a brush, as described for example in patent FR 2 722 380. The applicator may be in the form of a block of foam or elastomer, a felt, or 'a spatula. The applicator may be free (puff or sponge) or integral with a rod carried by the closure member, as described for example in US Patent 5,492,426. The applicator may be integral with the container, as described for example in the patent FR 2 761 959.
Les compositions peuvent être contenues directement dans le récipient, ou indirectement. A titre d'exemple, les compositions peuvent être disposées sur un support imprégné, notamment sous forme d'une lingette ou d'un tampon, et disposé (à l'unité ou plusieurs) dans une boîte ou dans un sachet. Un tel support incorporant le produit est décrit par exemple dans la demande WO 01/03538. L'élément de fermeture peut être couplé au récipient par vissage. Alternativement, le couplage entre l'élément de fermeture et le récipient se fait autrement que par vissage, notamment via un mécanisme à baïonnette, par encliquetage, serrage, soudage, collage, ou par attraction magnétique. Par "encliquetage", on entend en particulier tout système impliquant le franchissement d'un bourrelet ou d'un cordon de matière par déformation élastique d'une portion, notamment de l'élément de fermeture, puis par retour en position non contrainte élastiquement de ladite portion après le franchissement du bourrelet ou du cordon.The compositions can be contained directly in the container, or indirectly. By way of example, the compositions may be placed on an impregnated support, in particular in the form of a wipe or a buffer, and placed (individually or several) in a box or in a bag. Such a support incorporating the product is described for example in the application WO 01/03538. The closure member may be coupled to the container by screwing. Alternatively, the coupling between the closure element and the container is other than by screwing, in particular via a bayonet mechanism, snap-fastening, clamping, welding, gluing, or magnetic attraction. By "snapping" is meant in particular any system involving the crossing of a bead or a bead of material by elastic deformation of a portion, in particular of the closure element, then by return to the position not elastically constrained of said portion after crossing the bead or cord.
Le récipient peut être au moins pour partie réalisé en matériau thermoplastique. A titre d'exemples de matériaux thermoplastiques, on peut citer le polypropylène ou le polyéthylène.The container may be at least partly made of thermoplastic material. Examples of thermoplastic materials include polypropylene or polyethylene.
Alternativement, le récipient est réalisé en matériau non thermoplastique, notamment en verre ou en métal (ou alliage).Alternatively, the container is made of non-thermoplastic material, in particular glass or metal (or alloy).
Le récipient peut être à parois rigides ou à parois déformables, notamment sous forme d'un tube ou d'un flacon tube.The container may have rigid walls or deformable walls, in particular in the form of a tube or a tube flask.
Le récipient peut comprendre des moyens destinés à provoquer ou faciliter la distribution de la composition. A titre d'exemple, le récipient peut être à parois déformables de manière à provoquer la sortie de la composition en réponse à une surpression à l'intérieur du récipient, laquelle surpression est provoquée par écrasement élastique (ou non élastique) des parois du récipient.The container may include means for causing or facilitating the dispensing of the composition. By way of example, the container may have deformable walls so as to cause the composition to exit in response to an overpressure inside the container, which excess pressure is caused by elastic (or non-elastic) crushing of the walls of the container. .
Le récipient peut être constitué d'un boîtier avec un fond délimitant au moins un logement contenant la composition, et un couvercle, notamment articulé sur le fond, et apte à recouvrir au moins en partie ledit fond. Un tel boîtier est décrit par exemple dans la demande de brevet WO 03/018423 ou dans le brevet FR 2 791 042. Le récipient peut être équipé d'un essoreur disposé au voisinage de l'ouverture du récipient. Un tel essoreur permet d'essuyer l'applicateur et éventuellement, la tige dont il peut être solidaire. Un tel essoreur est décrit par exemple dans le brevet FR 2 792 618.The container may consist of a housing with a bottom defining at least one housing containing the composition, and a cover, in particular articulated on the bottom, and adapted to cover at least part of said bottom. Such a housing is described for example in patent application WO 03/018423 or in patent FR 2 791 042. The container may be equipped with a wiper arranged in the vicinity of the opening of the container. Such a wiper makes it possible to wipe the applicator and possibly the rod which it can be secured. Such a wiper is described, for example, in patent FR 2 792 618.
Selon un mode particulier de l'invention, le récipient est sous la forme d'un flacon ou d'un sachet souple.According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the container is in the form of a bottle or a flexible bag.
Par « dispositif unitaire », on entend un dispositif par lequel les deux compartiments ou récipients sont solidaires l'un de l'autre. Un tel dispositif peut être obtenu par un procédé de moulage en une seule pièce des deux compartiments, notamment en un matériau thermoplastique. Il peut également résulter de toute forme d'assemblage, notamment par collage, soudage, ou autre encliquetage.By "unitary device" is meant a device by which the two compartments or containers are integral with each other. Such a device can be obtained by a method of molding in one piece of the two compartments, in particular a thermoplastic material. It can also result from any form of assembly, especially by gluing, welding, or other snap.
Selon un premier mode de réalisation, les deux récipients sont distincts indépendants l'un de l'autre. De tels récipients peuvent se présenter sous diverses formes. Il peut s'agir notamment de tubes, de flacons ou de bidons.According to a first embodiment, the two containers are distinct independent of one another. Such containers may be in various forms. This may include tubes, bottles or cans.
L'un et/ou l'autre des récipients peuvent être surmontés d'une pompe à actionnement manuel surmontée d'un bouton poussoir pour l'actionnement de la pompe et la distribution de la composition via au moins un orifice de distribution.One and / or the other of the containers may be surmounted by a manually operated pump surmounted by a push button for the actuation of the pump and the distribution of the composition via at least one dispensing orifice.
Alternativement, l'un et/ou l'autre des récipients sont pressurisés, notamment au moyen d'un agent propulseur, en particulier un gaz propulseur. Dans ce cas, le (ou les) récipient(s) est (sont) équipé(s) d'une valve surmontée par un bouton poussoir équipée d'une buse ou de tout autre moyen de diffusion pour la distribution du produit.Alternatively, one and / or the other of the containers are pressurized, in particular by means of a propellant, in particular a propellant. In this case, the (or) container (s) is (are) equipped with a valve surmounted by a push button equipped with a nozzle or other means of diffusion for the distribution of the product.
Le propulseur peut être en mélange avec au moins l'une des compositions à distribuer ou séparé, notamment via un piston apte à coulisser à l'intérieur du récipient, ou via les parois souples d'une poche à l'intérieur de laquelle est disposée la composition.The propellant may be in admixture with at least one of the compositions to be dispensed or separated, in particular via a piston capable of sliding inside the container, or via the flexible walls of a pocket inside which is arranged the composition.
Les récipients peuvent être constitués de matériaux divers : plastique, verre, ou métal.The containers may be made of various materials: plastic, glass, or metal.
Selon un mode de réalisation préféré, les deux compositions sont contenues à l'intérieur d'un dispositif unitaire.According to a preferred embodiment, the two compositions are contained within a unitary device.
Selon un mode particulier, les première et seconde compositions de l'invention sont conditionnées à l'intérieur de deux compartiments (51 , 52) délimités par un dispositif unitaire (1 ) de type flacon-pompe tel que représenté à la figure 1 du brevet US 6 672 483.According to one particular embodiment, the first and second compositions of the invention are packaged inside two compartments (51, 52) delimited by a unitary device (1) of the pump-bottle type as represented in FIG. US 6,672,483.
En particulier, chacun des compartiments est équipé d'une pompe (41 , 42), de préférence à actionnement manuel, reliée à au moins un moyen d'actionnement et de distribution (3) permettant de délivrer, séparément ou en mélange lesdites première et seconde compositions.In particular, each of the compartments is equipped with a pump (41, 42), preferably manually actuated, connected to at least one actuating and dispensing means (3) for delivering, separately or in a mixture, said first and second compositions.
Selon un mode préféré, le moyen d'actionnement et de distribution (3) est commun aux deux pompes.According to a preferred embodiment, the actuating and dispensing means (3) is common to both pumps.
Selon une alternative, chacun des compartiments est pressurisé, notamment au moyen d'un agent propulseur, et équipé d'une valve reliée à au moins un moyen d'actionnement et de distribution permettant de délivrer, séparément ou en mélange lesdites compositions.According to an alternative, each of the compartments is pressurized, in particular by means of a propellant, and equipped with a valve connected to at least one actuating and dispensing means making it possible to deliver, separately or as a mixture, said compositions.
En particulier, le moyen d'actionnement et de distribution est commun aux deux valves.In particular, the actuating and dispensing means is common to both valves.
Le dispositif de conditionnement présenté à la Figure 1 du brevet US 6 672 483 est constitué de deux compartiments 51 , 52 disposés côte à côte et formés à l'intérieur d'une pièce 5 obtenue de moulage d'un matériau thermoplastique.The packaging device shown in FIG. 1 of US Pat. No. 6,672,483 consists of two compartments 51, 52 arranged side by side and formed inside a molded piece 5 obtained from a thermoplastic material.
Chacun des récipients 51 , 52 comporte un col 53 délimitant une ouverture. A l'intérieur du col de chacun des récipients est montée une pompe 41 , 42, qui peut être avec ou sans reprise d'air.Each of the containers 51, 52 has a neck 53 defining an opening. AT the inside of the neck of each of the containers is mounted a pump 41, 42, which can be with or without air intake.
Lors du montage, la pièce 5 délimitant les deux compartiments 51 , 52, est disposée à l'intérieur d'un élément d'habillage 10.During assembly, the part 5 delimiting the two compartments 51, 52 is disposed inside a covering element 10.
Une tige de pompe 21a, 22a, de chacune des pompes 41 , 42 est insérée à force à l'intérieur d'un conduit correspondant prévu dans un bouton poussoir unique 3 configuré de manière à permettre l'actionnement simultané des deux pompes, en réponse à une pression exercée axialement sur une surface 35 du bouton poussoir 3.A pump rod 21a, 22a, of each of the pumps 41, 42 is forced into a corresponding conduit provided in a single push button 3 configured to allow simultaneous actuation of the two pumps, in response at a pressure exerted axially on a surface 35 of the push button 3.
Les conduits du bouton poussoir connectés à chacune des pompes débouchent sur deux orifices 31 a, 32a, disposés au voisinage l'un de l'autre sur une surface extérieure du bouton poussoir 3. En réponse à un actionnement des pompes 41 , 42, les deux compositions sortent séparément soit sur le doigt de l'utilisatrice, soit sur un tampon ou coton applicateur. Le mélange des deux compositions se fait alors lors de l'application sur la surface à traiter.The pushbutton ducts connected to each of the pumps open onto two orifices 31a, 32a disposed in the vicinity of each other on an outer surface of the push button 3. In response to an actuation of the pumps 41, 42, the two compositions come out separately either on the finger of the user, or on a tampon or cotton applicator. The mixture of the two compositions is then made during application to the surface to be treated.
On peut utiliser par exemple des dispositifs tels que décrits dans les documents US 5 833 121 , US 4 773 562 et US 6 672 483.For example, devices as described in US 5,833,121, US 4,773,562 and US 6,672,483 may be used.
Selon un autre mode particulier, les deux compartiments sont formés à l'intérieur d'un même sachet souple, et séparés par une zone de rupture ou de soudure faible qui peut être cassée au moment de l'utilisation, notamment en réponse à une pression exercée à un endroit précis du sachet, au niveau de l'un des deux compartiments. Des exemples de sachets souples à deux compartiments utilisables dans la présente invention sont décrits notamment dans les demandes de brevets JP2000272674, WO99/51509, EP243730 ou FR 2 876 356. Les compartiments peuvent être réalisés au moyen d'au moins une feuille, par exemple une feuille d'un matériau thermoplastique souple ; et liés l'un à l'autre par une bordure commune de type soudure faible. Selon un mode particulier, la bordure commune de type soudure faible est sur toute la largeur du sachet, ou sur une largeur moindre formant un canal étanche entre les deux sachets.According to another particular embodiment, the two compartments are formed inside a single flexible bag, and separated by a weak breaking or welding zone which can be broken at the moment of use, in particular in response to a pressure exercised at a specific point in the bag, at one of the two compartments. Examples of flexible bags with two compartments usable in the present invention are described in particular in patent applications JP2000272674, WO99 / 51509, EP243730 or FR 2 876 356. The compartments may be made by means of at least one sheet, for example a sheet of a flexible thermoplastic material; and linked to each other by a common border of low welding type. According to a mode In particular, the common edge of the low welding type is over the entire width of the bag, or on a smaller width forming a sealed channel between the two bags.
De préférence, le sachet est réalisé avec des films imperméables à l'oxygène de l'air comme l'aluminium.Preferably, the bag is made with films impermeable to oxygen in the air, such as aluminum.
On peut également utiliser des films imperméables à l'eau sous la forme d'une tricouche Polyethylène terephtalate / Silicone/ Polyethylène (PET/SiOx/PE).Water-impermeable films can also be used in the form of a polyethylene terephthalate / silicone / polyethylene trilayer (PET / SiOx / PE).
Alternativement encore, les deux compartiments sont formés de deux compartiments concentriques formés à l'intérieur d'un tube, et sont surmontés d'une pompe sans reprise d'air équipée d'un bouton poussoir à un ou deux orifices de distribution. A l'intérieur du tube est prévu un piston qui remonte en direction de la pompe au fur et à mesure que les compositions sont prélevées à l'intérieur des récipients. De tels modes de distribution sont utilisés notamment pour la distribution de pâtes dentifrices.Alternatively, the two compartments are formed of two concentric compartments formed inside a tube, and are surmounted by a pump without air intake equipped with a push button to one or two dispensing orifices. Inside the tube is provided a piston which goes up towards the pump as the compositions are taken from the inside of the containers. Such modes of distribution are used in particular for the distribution of toothpastes.
Le contenu des brevets ou demandes de brevets cités précédemment sont incorporés par référence dans la présente demande.The contents of the aforementioned patents or patent applications are incorporated by reference in this application.
D'autres dispositifs encore peuvent être utilisés pour la mise en œuvre de la présente invention, l'essentiel étant qu'ils puissent permettre le conditionnement séparé des deux compositions de l'ensemble cosmétique de la présente invention et leur distribution de manière séparée ou en mélange.Still other devices can be used for the implementation of the present invention, the essential being that they can allow the separate conditioning of the two compositions of the cosmetic assembly of the present invention and their distribution separately or in combination. mixed.
Les compositions de l'ensemble cosmétique selon l'invention, après les avoir mélangées, peuvent constituer un masque, une crème de nettoyage, de protection, de traitement ou de soin pour le visage, pour les mains, pour les pieds, ou pour le corps (par exemple crèmes de jour, crèmes de nuit, crèmes démaquillantes, crèmes de fond de teint, crèmes anti-solaires) ; un lait de démaquillage; une lotion, gel ou mousse pour le soin de la peau, comme une lotion de nettoyage. L'ensemble cosmétique selon l'invention a notamment un effet éclaircissant et un effet positif sur l'éclat du teint, il permet d'estomper les taches de vieillesse et/ou a un effet positif sur l'aspect des peaux grasses, en particulier en favorisant la matité de la peau. L'ensemble cosmétique selon l'invention permet également d'éclaircir la peau, favoriser l'éclat du teint, homogénéiser le teint, diminuer les taches, notamment les taches de vieillesse ou améliorer la tenue du maquillage.The compositions of the cosmetic assembly according to the invention, after having mixed them, can constitute a mask, a cream for cleaning, protection, treatment or care for the face, for the hands, for the feet, or for the body (for example, day creams, night creams, make-up removing creams, foundation creams, sunscreen creams); cleansing milk; a lotion, gel or mousse for the care of the skin, such as a cleaning lotion. The cosmetic assembly according to the invention has in particular a lightening effect and a positive effect on the radiance of the complexion, it makes it possible to fade the age spots and / or has a positive effect on the appearance of oily skin, in particular by promoting the dullness of the skin. The cosmetic assembly according to the invention also makes it possible to lighten the skin, to promote the radiance of the complexion, to homogenize the complexion, to diminish the spots, in particular the age spots, or to improve the makeup hold.
En conséquence, l'invention concerne un procédé cosmétique pour améliorer l'aspect de la peau, comprenant l'application sur la peau de l'ensemble cosmétique selon l'invention.Accordingly, the invention relates to a cosmetic method for improving the appearance of the skin, comprising applying to the skin of the cosmetic assembly according to the invention.
Plus spécifiquement, l'invention concerne un procédé pour atténuer les imperfections de la peau, les taches et/ou les lésions d'acné, pour lisser le relief cutané, pour rendre les pores moins apparents (notamment par réduction de la taille des pores), en rendant le microrelief et/ou les rides moins visibles, pour redonner de l'éclat aux peaux, en particulier les peaux ternes, cendrées ou foncées, pour améliorer l'aspect des peaux grasses, notamment en favorisant la matité de la peau, pour éclaircir la peau, pour favoriser l'éclat du teint, homogénéiser le teint, diminuer les taches, notamment les taches de vieillesse ou dues au soleil, et/ou améliorer la tenue du maquillage, comprenant l'application sur la peau de l'ensemble selon l'invention.More specifically, the invention relates to a method for reducing skin imperfections, spots and / or acne lesions, for smoothing the cutaneous relief, to make the pores less apparent (in particular by reducing the size of the pores) , making microrelief and / or less visible wrinkles, to restore radiance to the skin, especially dull, ashy or dark skin, to improve the appearance of oily skin, especially by promoting the dullness of the skin, to lighten the skin, to promote the radiance of the complexion, to homogenize the complexion, to diminish the spots, in particular the spots of old age or due to the sun, and / or to improve the makeup hold, including the application on the skin of the skin, together according to the invention.
L'atténuation des imperfections de la peau se fera également par réduction du nombre de boutons et points noirs et/ou diminution de la brillance de la peau.Skin blemishes will also be reduced by reducing the number of pimples and blackheads and / or reducing the brightness of the skin.
L'ensemble selon l'invention peut être appliqué de toutes les manières envisageables par l'homme du métier dans un procédé de soin de la peau.The assembly according to the invention can be applied in any way that can be envisaged by those skilled in the art in a skin care process.
En particulier, il peut être envisagé de mélanger les compositions dudit ensemble avant application sur la peau. Les propriétés du polymère contenu dans la première composition, en particulier du PVP, permettent une application facile de l'ensemble selon l'invention, après mélange des compositions le constituant, le mélange ne coulant pas, ou peu, sur la peau après application. Alternativement, on peut envisager l'application préalable de l'une des compositions sur la peau, puis l'application de l'autre composition sur la peau ainsi préparée.In particular, it may be envisaged to mix the compositions of said assembly before application to the skin. The properties of the polymer contained in the first composition, in particular PVP, allow an application easy assembly of the invention after mixing the compositions constituting it, the mixture does not flow, or little, on the skin after application. Alternatively, it is possible to envisage the prior application of one of the compositions on the skin and then the application of the other composition to the skin thus prepared.
Par exemple, dans un mode particulier de réalisation, la première composition de l'ensemble selon l'invention, contenant le complexe polymère-H2θ2, de préférence un complexe PVP-H2O2, est d'abord appliquée sur la peau. Ensuite, la deuxième composition contenant l'activateur favorisant la décomposition de H2O2 est appliquée sur la peau, au moins sur la zone où la première composition a été appliquée.For example, in a particular embodiment, the first composition of the assembly according to the invention, containing the polymer-H 2 θ 2 complex, preferably a PVP-H 2 O 2 complex, is first applied to the skin. . Then, the second composition containing the H 2 O 2 decomposition promoting activator is applied to the skin, at least in the area where the first composition has been applied.
Dans un autre mode de réalisation, la deuxième composition contenant l'activateur défini ci-dessus est d'abord appliquée, puis la première composition contenant le complexe polymère-H2O2 est appliquée sur la peau, au moins sur la zone où la deuxième composition contenant l'activateur a été appliquée.In another embodiment, the second composition containing the activator defined above is first applied, then the first composition containing the polymer-H 2 O 2 complex is applied to the skin, at least in the area where the second composition containing the activator was applied.
Selon un mode préféré, ledit procédé selon l'invention comprend en outre une étape de rinçage après application sur la peau ou ses phanères de l'ensemble cosmétique.According to a preferred embodiment, said method according to the invention further comprises a rinsing step after application to the skin or its integuments of the cosmetic assembly.
Selon un mode particulier de réalisation, le procédé cosmétique selon l'invention comprendAccording to a particular embodiment, the cosmetic process according to the invention comprises
- le mélange des première et deuxième compositions de l'ensemble cosmétique selon l'invention avec de l'eau, la première composition comprenant un complexe PVP-H2O2 et un véhicule glycolé comprenant du PEG-8, et la deuxième composition étant constituée d'une zéolite sous forme de poudre, etthe mixture of the first and second compositions of the cosmetic assembly according to the invention with water, the first composition comprising a PVP-H 2 O 2 complex and a glycolic carrier comprising PEG-8, and the second composition being consisting of a zeolite in powder form, and
- l'application du mélange résultant sur la peau.- the application of the resulting mixture on the skin.
L'invention a encore pour objet l'utilisation cosmétique de l'ensemble cosmétique tel que décrit précédemment, pour améliorer l'aspect de la peau, et plus spécifiquement pour atténuer les imperfections cutanées, les taches et/ou les lésions d'acné, pour lisser le relief cutané, pour rendre les pores moins apparents (notamment par réduction de la taille des pores), en réduisant le nombre de boutons et points noirs, le microrelief et/ou les rides moins visibles, pour redonner de l'éclat aux peaux, en particulier les peaux ternes, cendrées ou foncées, pour améliorer l'aspect des peaux grasses, notamment en favorisant la matité de la peau ou en diminuant la brillance de la peau, pour éclaircir la peau, pour favoriser l'éclat du teint, homogénéiser le teint, diminuer les taches, notamment les taches de vieillesse ou dues au soleil, et/ou améliorer la tenue du maquillage, comprenant l'application sur la peau de l'ensemble cosmétique selon l'invention tel que décrit précédemment.The invention also relates to the cosmetic use of the cosmetic assembly as described above, to improve the appearance of the skin, and more specifically to reduce skin imperfections, blemishes and / or acne lesions, to smooth the cutaneous relief, to make the pores less apparent (in particular by reducing the size of the pores), by reducing the number of pimples and blackheads, microrelief and / or less visible wrinkles, to restore radiance to the skin, especially dull, ashy or dark skin to improve the appearance of oily skin, in particular by promoting the dullness of the skin or by decreasing the brightness of the skin, to lighten the skin, to promote the radiance of the complexion, to homogenize the complexion, to reduce stains, especially age spots or due to the sun, and / or improve the strength of makeup, including the application on the skin of the cosmetic assembly according to the invention as described above.
L'ensemble cosmétique selon l'invention a également l'avantage de pouvoir permettre l'éclaircissement des phanères, et notamment des cheveux ou des poils ou duvet, sur les avant-bras, sur le visage, notamment au niveau de la moustache, etc.The cosmetic assembly according to the invention also has the advantage of being able to allow the lightening of the integuments, and in particular the hair or the hairs or down, on the forearms, on the face, in particular at the level of the mustache, etc. .
L'invention a aussi pour objet un procédé cosmétique de soin de la peau grasse, en particulier en vue de matifier la peau, comprenant l'application topique sur celle-ci de l'ensemble cosmétique tel que décrit précédemment.The subject of the invention is also a cosmetic process for the care of oily skin, in particular with a view to mattifying the skin, comprising the topical application thereto of the cosmetic assembly as described above.
Selon un mode de réalisation préféré, ledit procédé cosmétique de soin de la peau grasse comprend en outre une étape de rinçage après application sur la peau des compositions de l'ensemble cosmétique tel que décrit précédemment.According to a preferred embodiment, said cosmetic process for the care of oily skin further comprises a rinsing step after application to the skin of the compositions of the cosmetic assembly as described above.
En particulier, l'ensemble cosmétique est appliqué sur des zones du visage ou du front présentant une brillance.In particular, the cosmetic assembly is applied to areas of the face or forehead having a gloss.
Selon un mode particulier, la peau peut être mouillée, préalablement à l'application de l'ensemble cosmétique selon l'invention.According to a particular mode, the skin may be wetted, prior to the application of the cosmetic assembly according to the invention.
Les procédés selon l'invention sont plus particulièrement destinés aux personnes ayant une peau de phototype III à Vl. Selon un mode préféré, après application sur la peau, le mélange des compositions de l'ensemble cosmétique est rincé, après un temps de pause compris avantageusement entre 5 et 30 minutes, de préférence après un temps de pause inférieur à 20 minutes, de manière encore plus préférée pendant un temps d'environ 15 minutes.The methods according to the invention are more particularly intended for persons having a skin of phototype III to VI. According to a preferred embodiment, after application to the skin, the mixture of the compositions of the cosmetic assembly is rinsed, after a pause period advantageously between 5 and 30 minutes, preferably after a pause time of less than 20 minutes, so even more preferred for a time of about 15 minutes.
L'ensemble cosmétique peut être utilisé en masque, de préférence avec une fréquence d'application hebdomadaire, bimensuelle ou mensuelle. Il peut également être utilisé en cure avec, par exemple, une application quotidienne ou biquotidienne pendant une ou deux semaines.The cosmetic unit can be used as a mask, preferably with a weekly, bi-weekly or monthly application frequency. It can also be used as a cure with, for example, a daily application or twice daily for one or two weeks.
L'invention concerne en outre un ensemble tel que décrit ci-dessus, à titre de produit pour le traitement de l'acné.The invention further relates to an assembly as described above, as a product for the treatment of acne.
L'invention concerne donc également l'utilisation d'un ensemble tel que décrit ci-dessus, pour la fabrication d'un produit destiné au traitement de l'acné.The invention therefore also relates to the use of an assembly as described above, for the manufacture of a product for the treatment of acne.
Selon un autre aspect, l'ensemble selon l'invention est utilisé à titre d'actif antibactérien, pour diminuer la quantité de germes responsables de l'acné présents sur la peau, ou pour limiter leur développement, et notamment pour diminuer la quantité de P. Acnés, ou pour limiter le développement de l'un de ces germes.According to another aspect, the assembly according to the invention is used as an antibacterial active agent, to reduce the amount of acne-causing germs present on the skin, or to limit their development, and in particular to reduce the amount of acne. P. Acnes, or to limit the development of any of these germs.
On entend désigner par le terme "traitement", et toutes ses déclinaisons, le traitement curatif ou préventif. L'ensemble selon l'invention peut ainsi être utilisé chez un sujet présentant un acné. L'ensemble selon l'invention peut aussi être utilisé pour retarder ou ralentir la progression ou prévenir une progression plus en avant de l'acné. L'ensemble selon invention peut enfin être administré à une personne ne présentant pas d'acné, mais dont la peau, notamment une peau grasse, est à tendance acnéique.What is meant by the term "treatment", and all its variations, curative or preventive treatment. The assembly according to the invention can thus be used in a subject with acne. The assembly according to the invention can also be used to delay or slow progression or prevent further progression of acne. The assembly according to the invention may finally be administered to a person not having acne, but whose skin, including oily skin, is acne prone.
La quantité des actifs présents dans les compositions de l'ensemble selon l'invention sera avantageusement comprise dans les intervalles décrits précédemment, pour obtenir l'effet désiré. Bien entendu, l'homme du métier est à même d'établir la quantité efficace desdits actifs dans l'ensemble selon l'invention, et veillera à ce que les ingrédients et/ou actifs additionnels introduits dans les première et deuxième composition décrites ci-dessus n'altère pas les effets avantageux de l'ensemble selon l'invention sur la décroissance des germes de l'acné.The quantity of the active ingredients present in the compositions of the assembly according to the invention will advantageously be included in the ranges described. previously, to achieve the desired effect. Of course, those skilled in the art are able to establish the effective amount of said active agents in the assembly according to the invention, and will ensure that the ingredients and / or additional active ingredients introduced into the first and second composition described above. above does not alter the advantageous effects of the assembly according to the invention on the decay of the germs of acne.
Selon un autre aspect, l'invention concerne une méthode de traitement dermatologique de l'acné, comprenant l'administration topique de l'ensemble selon l'invention décrit ci-dessus, après mélange des première et deuxième compositions, telles que décrites ci-dessus, à une personne en ayant besoin.According to another aspect, the invention relates to a dermatological treatment method for acne, comprising the topical administration of the assembly according to the invention described above, after mixing the first and second compositions, as described hereinabove. above, to a person in need.
La composition peut être appliquée selon toutes les façons envisageables par l'homme du métier, et en particulier selon les modalités décrites ci-dessus pour les procédés cosmétiques selon l'invention.The composition may be applied in any way that can be envisaged by those skilled in the art, and in particular according to the modalities described above for the cosmetic processes according to the invention.
Les exemples qui suivent illustrent l'invention sans en limiter la portée. Les composés sont, selon le cas, cités en noms chimiques ou en noms CTFA (International Cosmetic Ingrédient Dictionary and Handbook).The examples which follow illustrate the invention without limiting its scope. The compounds are, as the case may be, listed in chemical names or CTFA names (International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook).
Légendes des figuresLegends of the figures
La figure 1 est un graphe mettant en évidence l'activation d'un complexe polymère-H2O2. Cette figure présente le rapport entre le taux d'oxygène dissous à un temps t, relatif au taux d'oxygène à t0, en fonction du temps.FIG. 1 is a graph showing the activation of a polymer-H 2 O 2 complex. This figure shows the ratio between the dissolved oxygen level at a time t, relative to the oxygen level at t 0 , as a function of time.
ExemplesExamples
Exemple 1 : Activité éclaircissante mesurée in vitro On mesure l'activité éclaircissante d'un complexe PVP-H2O2 commercial, le Peroxydone K-30® de ISP, dans différents solvants, dans un test de décoloration d'un colorant.Example 1: Lightening activity measured in vitro The lightening activity of a commercial PVP-H2O2 complex, ISP Peroxydone K-30 ® , is measured in various solvents in a dye bleaching test.
Protocole de Test de décoloration in vitroIn Vitro Fade Test Protocol
La solution de colorant ou « solution X » est une solution de sel disodique de bleu brillant FCF (Cl : 42090) de LCW (Sensient). La solution de colorant est préparée comme suit : 15 mg de poudre de colorant sont solubilisés dans 50 ml de tampon borate pH 10,7 puis dilués de nouveau au 1/50eme. Le tampon borate est préparé de la façon suivante : 4,77g de disodium tétraborate, decahydrate (Na2B4O7,10 H2O, M = 381 ,37 g/mol) sont dissouts avec environ 500ml d'eau. Le pH est ajusté à 10,7 avec ajout d'une solution de soude (250 ml environ de NaOH 0,1 N complété à 1 litre).The dye solution or "solution X" is LCF (Sensant) brilliant blue FC disodium salt solution (Cl: 42090). The dye solution is prepared as follows: 15 mg of dye powder are solubilized in 50 ml of borate buffer pH 10.7 and then diluted again to 1/50 th . The borate buffer is prepared in the following manner: 4.77 g of disodium tetraborate, decahydrate (Na 2 B 4 O 7 , 10 H 2 O, M = 381, 37 g / mol) are dissolved with approximately 500 ml of water. The pH is adjusted to 10.7 with addition of a sodium hydroxide solution (approximately 250 ml of 0.1 N NaOH supplemented to 1 liter).
1 g d'une dispersion à 22% en Peroxydone K-30® dans le milieu de dilution considéré (Ethanol, PEG-8, Butylène Glycol ou Glycérine) est ajouté à 19 g de la solution X. Au bout de 10 min d'agitation du mélange dans le noir, la dispersion est filtrée (filtre Cellulose 0,45 μm) et la densité optique est mesurée sur la plage [400-800] nm à 25°C. Le colorant absorbe à 630nm. L'efficacité décolorante est traduite par le pourcentage de décoloration à t=10min (soit [DOtiomm (mélange) - DOtiomm (colorant)/DOto (colorant)] X 100.1 g of a 22% dispersion of Peroxydone K-30 ® in the dilution medium under consideration (Ethanol, PEG-8, butylene glycol or glycerin) is added to 19 g of solution X. After 10 minutes of stirring the mixture in the dark, the dispersion is filtered (0.45 μm Cellulose filter) and the optical density is measured in the range [400-800] nm at 25 ° C. The dye absorbs at 630nm. The bleaching efficiency is expressed as the percentage of bleaching at t = 10min (ie [DOtiomm (mixture) - DOtiomm (dye) / OD t o (dye)] X 100.
Les résultats sont donnés dans le tableau suivant :The results are given in the following table:
On constate que le PVP-H2O2 présente la même activité que le peroxyde d'hydrogène libre, à taux équivalent de H2O2, quel que soit le milieu de formulation et est particulièrement efficace dans l'éthanol et le PEG-8. Les résultats obtenus dans le butylène glycol sont également satisfaisants. On préférera ces solvants à la glycérine. It is found that PVP-H2O2 has the same activity as free hydrogen peroxide, at an equivalent rate of H2O2, regardless of the formulation medium and is particularly effective in ethanol and PEG-8. The results obtained in butylene glycol are also satisfactory. These solvents will be preferred to glycerine.
Exemple 2 : Exemples de formulationExample 2: Formulation Examples
On mélange les préparations P1 et P2 indiquées dans le tableau ci-dessous avant application sur la peau.The preparations P1 and P2 indicated in the table below are mixed before application to the skin.
On applique 20g de formule en couche épaisse sur le visage en évitant le contour des yeux. La peau peut être éventuellement humidifiée avant application du mélange. Le produit est laissé 10 min puis rincé.20g of formula in thick layer is applied on the face avoiding the contour of the eyes. The skin may be optionally moistened before application of the mixture. The product is left for 10 minutes then rinsed.
Note : la Peroxidone K-3CP est un complexe PVP-H2O2 commercialisé par ISP ; le peroxyde de calcium utilisé est commercialisé par SPCH. Note: Peroxidone K-3CP is a PVP-H 2 O 2 complex marketed by ISP; the calcium peroxide used is marketed by SPCH.
Les mélanges sont faciles à appliquer (ne coule pas) en raison du caractère filmogène du PVP-H2O2. Exemple 3 : Test clinique d'efficacité sur peau grasseThe mixtures are easy to apply (does not flow) because of the film-forming nature of PVP-H2O2. Example 3: Clinical Efficacy Test on Oily Skin
Les deux produits A et B indiqués dans le tableau ci-dessous ont été testés sur 40 personnes à peau grasse à tendance acnéique (présence de boutons/points noirs) avec des pores dilatés selon un protocole monocentrique, randomisé en double aveugle en hemi-visage.The two products A and B indicated in the table below were tested on 40 people with acne-prone fatty skin (presence of pimples / blackheads) with dilated pores according to a monocentric protocol, randomized double-blind in hemi-face .
Après mélange dans une coupelle des préparations P1 et P2 (pour chacun des deux produits) dans un rapport 1.5g/1.5g, les produits A et B ont été appliqués (à raison de 3g) en couche épaisse sur un côté du visage humidifié tous les jours pendant 5 jours (un produit par joue pour une même personne). Le temps de pose a été de 10 minutes. Le produit a ensuite été abondamment rincé.After mixing in a cup preparations P1 and P2 (for each of the two products) in a ratio 1.5g / 1.5g, products A and B were applied (at a rate of 3g) in a thick layer on one side of the face moistened all days for 5 days (one product per cheek for the same person). The exposure time was 10 minutes. The product was then thoroughly rinsed.
* La peroxydone K-30 est un complexe PVP-H2O2 commercialisé par ISP qui contient 20% * Peroxidone K-30 is a PVP-H 2 O 2 complex marketed by ISP which contains 20%
H2O2 et 80% PVP K30 LH 2 O 2 and 80% PVP K30 L
** Polyvinylpyrrolidone commercialisé par ISP** Polyvinylpyrrolidone marketed by ISP
*** X-MOL (Société Zeochem)*** X-MOL (Zeochem Company)
La préparation 1 est obtenue par dispersion à la pale de la Peroxydone K-30® dans le PEG-8 jusqu'à obtention d'un gel transparent.Preparation 1 is obtained by dispersion of the peroxidone K-30 ® in PEG-8 with a pale blade until a transparent gel is obtained.
La préparation 2 est obtenue par dispersion au Rayneri de la poudre de zéolite après avoir fait gonfler le carbomer dans un mélange eau/hydroxyde de sodium et avoir introduit le butylène glycol. Les valeurs mesurées sont le scorage (taille) des pores (Dermascore) et la surface des porphyrines (marqueur d'activité de la bactérie Propionobacterium Acnés).Preparation 2 is obtained by Rayneri dispersion of the zeolite powder after swelling the carbomer in a water / sodium hydroxide mixture and introducing the butylene glycol. The measured values are the scoring (size) of the pores (Dermascore) and the surface of the porphyrins (activity marker of the bacterium Propionobacterium Acnes).
II est apparu au bout de 5 jours d'application quotidienne une supériorité significative du traitement pour le Produit A par rapport au placebo (Produit B) en ce qui concerne :It appeared after 5 days of daily application a significant superiority of the treatment for Product A compared to placebo (Product B) with regard to:
- la réduction de la taille des pores- the reduction of the pore size
- la diminution de la surface des porphyrines (équivalent à une diminution de l'activité des germes P. acnés responsables de l'acné), preuve d'une efficacité antibactehenne.- the decrease in the surface of porphyrins (equivalent to a decrease in the activity of P. acnes germs responsible for acne), proof of antibacterial efficacy.
Exemple 4 : Mise en évidence de l'activation du complexe polvmère-H?O?Example 4: Demonstration of the Activation of the Polymer-H? O Complex
On prépare le Produit A comme dans l'exemple 3 ci-dessus et le produit C à l'identique au Produit A à l'exception de la soude et de la zéolite dans la préparation P2.Product A is prepared as in Example 3 above and product C is identical to Product A with the exception of sodium hydroxide and zeolite in preparation P2.
* La peroxydone K-30 est un complexe PVP-H2O2 commercialisé par ISP qui contient 20% * Peroxidone K-30 is a PVP-H 2 O 2 complex marketed by ISP which contains 20%
H2O2 et 80% PVP K30 LH 2 O 2 and 80% PVP K30 L
** X-MOL (Société Zeochem)** X-MOL (Zeochem Company)
On réalise un dosage de l'oxygène dissous avec l'oxymetre 782 [Strath kelvin Instruments] relié à une électrode à oxygène à microcathode (modèle 1302).Dissolved oxygen is assayed with oximeter 782 [Strath kelvin Instruments] connected to a microcathode oxygen electrode (Model 1302).
Préparation pour la formule A : on dilue P1 à 10% dans l'eau. De même pour P2. On introduit 500 μl de chaque solution diluée dans une enceinte à température régulée, le Mitocell MT200 [Strath kelvin Instruments] dans laquelle se trouve l'électrode. On dose l'oxygène dissout après 10 minutes de contact en μg d'oxygène dissous / ml. On réalise la même opération pour le Produit C.Preparation for Formula A: 10% P1 is diluted in water. Similarly for P2. 500 .mu.l of each diluted solution are introduced into an enclosure with temperature controlled, the Mitocell MT200 [Strath kelvin Instruments] in which the electrode is located. The dissolved oxygen is measured after 10 minutes of contact in μg of dissolved oxygen / ml. The same operation is performed for Product C.
Les résultats obtenus sont représentés sur la figure 1 , sous la forme d'un rapport entre la concentration d'oxygène au temps de mesure (t), et la concentration d'oxygène dissout mesurée en début d'expérience (t0), en fonction du temps.The results obtained are represented in FIG. 1, in the form of a ratio between the oxygen concentration at the measurement time (t), and the dissolved oxygen concentration measured at the beginning of the experiment (t 0 ), in function of time.
On mesure ainsi un excès d'oxygène dissout (au moins 25 % supérieur) pour le Produit A (correspondant à la formule A dans la figure 1 ) par rapport au Produit C (correspondant à la formule C dans la figure 1 ).An excess of dissolved oxygen (at least 25% higher) is thus measured for Product A (corresponding to formula A in FIG. 1) with respect to Product C (corresponding to formula C in FIG. 1).
On constate la formation d'Oxygène dissout pour le Produit A et pas pour le Produit C.Oxygen dissolves dissolved for Product A and not for Product C.
Les germes responsables de l'Acné (P. acnés) se développant en l'absence d'oxygène (bactérie anaérobie), on montre ainsi que le complexe PVP-H2O2 procure une meilleure activité que sous sa forme non activée.The germs responsible for Acne (P. acnes) developing in the absence of oxygen (anaerobic bacteria), it is shown that the PVP-H2O2 complex provides a better activity than in its non-activated form.
Exemple 5: Activité antibactérienne du complexe PVP-H2O2EXAMPLE 5 Antibacterial Activity of the PVP-H2O2 Complex
On a déterminé l'activité antibactérienne du Produit A selon l'exemple 3 à rencontre de la souche bactérienne Propionibacterium acnés Cette souche a été mise en contact avec le Produit A dans un milieu de culture liquide dans les rapports suivants :The antibacterial activity of Product A according to Example 3 was determined against the bacterial strain Propionibacterium acnes This strain was brought into contact with Product A in a liquid culture medium in the following ratios:
- 10% de l'inoculum bactérien à 108 germes/ml,- 10% of the bacterial inoculum at 10 8 germs / ml,
- 10% de Produit A,- 10% of Product A,
- 80% de milieu de culture liquide.- 80% of liquid culture medium.
En parallèle, un témoin de croissance dans lequel le Produit A a été remplacé d'une part par du diluant (eau) ou d'autre part par le produit B selon l'exemple 3 a été préparé dans les mêmes conditions. Les échantillons ont été placés dans un bain-marie à 35°C et maintenus sous agitation pendant toute la durée du test.In parallel, a growth control in which the Product A was replaced on the one hand by diluent (water) or on the other hand by the product B according to Example 3 was prepared under the same conditions. The samples were placed in a 35 ° C water bath and stirred for the duration of the test.
On dénombre en nombre/ml les bactéries P. acnés vivantes après 2 h de contact.There are number / ml living P. acne bacteria after 2 hours of contact.
Les tableaux ci-dessus montrent que le Produit A à base de complexe PVP- H2O2 (Peroxydone K-30® à un taux équivalent de 2.3% H2O2) a bien une activité anti-bactérienne à rencontre de Propionobacterium Acnés. The tables above show that the PVP-H 2 O 2 complex product A (Peroxydone K-30 ® at an equivalent rate of 2.3% H 2 O 2 ) does have an anti-bacterial activity against Propionobacterium Acnes. .

Claims

REVENDICATIONS
1. Ensemble cosmétique comprenant :1. Cosmetic assembly comprising:
- une première composition anhydre comprenant au moins un complexe polymère-H2O2, ledit polymère présentant des groupes accepteurs de liaison hydrogène aptes à former une liaison chimique non covalente avec le peroxyde d'hydrogène, eta first anhydrous composition comprising at least one polymer-H 2 O 2 complex, said polymer having hydrogen bond acceptor groups capable of forming a non-covalent chemical bond with hydrogen peroxide, and
- une deuxième composition comprenant au moins un activateur favorisant la décomposition de H2O2.a second composition comprising at least one activator promoting the decomposition of H 2 O 2 .
2. Ensemble selon la revendication 1 , caractérisé en ce que le polymère du complexe polymère-H2O2 est un polymère à base de motifs N-vinyliques hétérocycliques, en particulier un polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP).2. The assembly of claim 1, characterized in that the polymer of the polymer complex-H 2 O 2 is a polymer based on heterocyclic N-vinyl units, in particular a polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP).
3. Ensemble selon la revendication 1 ou 2, caractérisé en ce que la première composition est constituée du complexe polymère-H2O2, la première composition étant en particulier sous forme de poudre.3. The assembly of claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the first composition consists of the polymer-H 2 O 2 complex, the first composition being in particular in powder form.
4. Ensemble selon la revendication 1 ou 2, caractérisé en ce que la première composition comprend en outre un véhicule anhydre acceptable sur le plan cosmétique ou dermatologique.4. The assembly of claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the first composition further comprises a cosmetically or dermatologically acceptable anhydrous carrier.
5. Ensemble selon l'une quelconque des revendications 1 à 4, caractérisé en ce que la deuxième composition est constituée uniquement d'un ou plusieurs activateurs, la deuxième composition étant en particulier sous forme de poudre.5. An assembly according to any one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that the second composition consists solely of one or more activators, the second composition being in particular in powder form.
6. Ensemble selon l'une quelconque des revendications 1 à 4, caractérisé en ce que la deuxième composition comprend au moins un activateur favorisant la décomposition de H2O2 et un véhicule anhydre acceptable sur le plan cosmétique ou dermatologique. 6. An assembly according to any one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that the second composition comprises at least one activator promoting the decomposition of H 2 O 2 and a cosmetically or dermatologically acceptable anhydrous carrier.
7. Ensemble selon l'une des revendications précédentes, caractérisé en ce que l'activateur est choisi parmi les composés permettant la génération d'un pH supérieur à 8,5 lorsqu'ils sont mélangés à un complexe polymère-H2θ2 à 11 % en poids dans l'eau par rapport au poids total du mélange polymère-H2θ2/eau.7. The assembly as claimed in one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the activator is chosen from compounds allowing the generation of a pH greater than 8.5 when they are mixed with a polymer-H 2 θ 2 to 11 complex. % by weight in water relative to the total weight of the polymer-H 2 O 2 / water mixture.
8. Ensemble selon l'une quelconque des revendications précédentes, caractérisé en ce que l'activateur favorisant la décomposition de H2O2 est choisi dans le groupe constitué par le bicarbonate de sodium, laponite, les zéolites, le peroxyde de calcium, la soude (de préférence à 10 % dans l'eau), le métasilicate de sodium et leur mélange.8. The assembly as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the activator promoting the decomposition of H 2 O 2 is chosen from the group consisting of sodium bicarbonate, laponite, zeolites, calcium peroxide, soda (preferably 10% in water), sodium metasilicate and their mixture.
9. Ensemble selon l'une quelconque des revendications 4 à 8, caractérisé en ce que le véhicule de la première composition est choisi parmi les véhicules alcooliques, les véhicules glycolés ou leurs mélanges.9. An assembly according to any one of claims 4 to 8, characterized in that the vehicle of the first composition is selected from alcoholic vehicles, glycol vehicles or mixtures thereof.
10. Ensemble selon l'une quelconque des revendications précédentes, caractérisé en ce que la quantité de peroxyde dans la première composition est telle que la teneur en H2O2 est comprise entre 0,1 et 30 %, de préférence entre 0,1 et 25 %, de préférence entre 0,1 et 20% en poids par rapport au poids total de l'ensemble cosmétique.10. Assembly according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the amount of peroxide in the first composition is such that the content of H 2 O 2 is between 0.1 and 30%, preferably between 0.1. and 25%, preferably between 0.1 and 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the cosmetic assembly.
11. Ensemble cosmétique selon l'une des revendications précédentes, dans lequel le complexe polymère-H2O2 est un complexe PVP-H2O2 et l'activateur est une zéolite.11. Cosmetic assembly according to one of the preceding claims, wherein the polymer-H 2 O 2 complex is a PVP-H 2 O 2 complex and the activator is a zeolite.
12. Ensemble cosmétique selon l'une quelconque des revendication 1 , 2 et 4 à 11 , dans lequel la première composition comprend un complexe PVP-H2O2 et un véhicule glycolé comprenant du PEG-8, et la deuxième composition comprend une zéolite.The cosmetic assembly of any one of claims 1, 2 and 4 to 11, wherein the first composition comprises a PVP-H2O2 complex and a glycol vehicle comprising PEG-8, and the second composition comprises a zeolite.
13. Ensemble de conditionnement comprenant : i. un premier compartiment contenant une première composition contenant un complexe polymère-H2θ2, ii. un second compartiment contenant une seconde composition contenant au moins un activateur favorisant la décomposition de H2O2, ledit second compartiment étant isolé de manière étanche du premier, et iii. des moyens pour permettre la mise en contact notamment extemporanée des deux compositions, la première et la deuxième compositions de l'ensemble de conditionnement étant telles que définies dans l'une des revendications précédentes.13. Packaging assembly comprising: i. a first compartment containing a first composition containing a polymer-H 2 θ 2 complex, ii. a second compartment containing a second composition containing at least one activator promoting the decomposition of H 2 O 2 , said second compartment being sealed from the first, and iii. means for enabling the two compositions to be brought into contact, in particular extemporaneously, the first and second compositions of the packaging assembly being as defined in one of the preceding claims.
14. Procédé cosmétique pour améliorer l'aspect de la peau, comprenant l'application sur la peau de l'ensemble cosmétique selon l'une des revendications 1 à 12.14. Cosmetic process for improving the appearance of the skin, comprising applying to the skin of the cosmetic assembly according to one of claims 1 to 12.
15. Procédé selon la revendication 14, caractérisé en ce que l'amélioration de l'aspect de la peau comprend l'atténuation des imperfections de la peau, des taches et/ou des lésions d'acné, le lissage du relief cutané, l'obtention de pores moins apparents, d'un microrelief et/ou de rides moins visibles, l'amélioration de l'éclat de la peau, en particulier les peaux ternes, cendrées ou foncées, ou l'amélioration de l'aspect des peaux grasses, notamment en favorisant la matité de la peau, l'éclaircissement de la peau, l'amélioration de l'homogénéité du teint, la diminution des taches, notamment des taches de vieillesse ou dues au soleil, et/ou l'amélioration de la tenue du maquillage.15. The method of claim 14, characterized in that the improvement of the appearance of the skin comprises the attenuation of skin imperfections, patches and / or acne lesions, the smoothing of the cutaneous relief, the Obtaining less visible pores, microrelief and / or less visible wrinkles, improving the radiance of the skin, in particular dull, ashy or dark skin, or improving the appearance of the skin fat, in particular by promoting the mattness of the skin, the lightening of the skin, the improvement of the homogeneity of the complexion, the reduction of the spots, in particular the spots of old age or due to the sun, and / or the improvement of holding makeup.
16. Procédé cosmétique pour l'éclaircissement des phanères, comprenant l'application topique sur celles-ci, de l'ensemble cosmétique selon l'une des revendications 1 à 12.16. Cosmetic process for the lightening of the integuments, comprising the topical application thereto, of the cosmetic assembly according to one of claims 1 to 12.
17. Procédé selon l'une des revendications 14 à 16, comprenant en outre une étape de rinçage après application sur la peau ou ses phanères de l'ensemble cosmétique. 17. Method according to one of claims 14 to 16, further comprising a rinsing step after application to the skin or its integuments of the cosmetic assembly.
EP09746024A 2008-04-30 2009-04-30 Compositions based on polymer/hydrogen peroxide complexes and uses thereof Ceased EP2268257A2 (en)

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FR3035080B1 (en) * 2015-04-17 2019-08-09 Centre Hospitalier Universitaire D'amiens-Picardie CLOSURE DEVICE FOR PERMITTING A SAMPLE OF A PACKAGING ASSEMBLY COMPOSITION COMPRISING SUCH A CLOGGING DEVICE, METHODS FOR COLLECTING AND PACKAGING
US20200383887A1 (en) * 2019-06-04 2020-12-10 L'oreal Oxygenate skin treatment system

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