WO2009138706A2

WO2009138706A2 - Compositions based on porous polymer/hydrogen peroxide complexes and uses thereof

Info

Publication number: WO2009138706A2
Application number: PCT/FR2009/050808
Authority: WO
Inventors: Anne-Laure Bernard; Dominique Bordeaux
Original assignee: L'oreal
Priority date: 2008-04-30
Filing date: 2009-04-30
Publication date: 2009-11-19
Also published as: WO2009138706A3; FR2930726B1; FR2930726A1

Abstract

The invention relates to a cosmetic assembly for improving the appearance of the skin, comprising a first anhydrous composition comprising a polymer/H₂O₂ complex, said polymer being in the form of porous particles, and a second composition comprising an activator that promotes the decomposition of H₂O₂.

Description

Compositions based on porous polymer-hydrogen peroxide complexes and their uses

The invention relates to a cosmetic assembly comprising a first composition comprising a polymer-H ₂ O ₂ complex and a second composition comprising an activator promoting the decomposition of H ₂ O ₂ , said polymer being in the form of porous particles. It also relates to the use of this cosmetic set in the field of cosmetics or dermatology or to a cosmetic process comprising the application of this set to the skin.

Consumers are looking for skincare products with measurable short-term effectiveness with a noticeable and lasting improvement in the appearance of the skin. In particular, the desired effects are a smoothing of the cutaneous relief, less apparent pores, and / or a microrelief and less visible wrinkles, a reduction of the spots, a more radiant complexion, in particular for the dull skins or the dark skins, a sharper, less shiny skin, especially for oily skin. These results can be obtained with conventional care products over relatively long treatment times (greater than 3 months). Other treatments, such as chemical peels, also improve the appearance of the skin durably and noticeable after several application sessions. These treatments are generally accompanied by significant inconveniences, such as large desquamation a few days after an application session.

Oily skin is characterized by shiny skin, sometimes oily in appearance, thick, with enlarged pilosebaceous pores. Sebaceous hypersecretion is most often linked to hyperandrogenism due either to an androgen hyperproduction by an endocrine gland, or to peripheral hyperproduction of the sebaceous gland from surrounding androgens and / or proandrogens. Oily skin with a tendency to acne usually has cutaneous imperfections, dilated pores, an inhomogeneous texture of the skin and redness.

However, the known compositions do not make it possible to obtain a perceptible and lasting improvement in the appearance of the skin. In addition, it would be desirable to have skin care that is more stable and better tolerated than the known compositions of the prior art.

In the application US 2007/0166339 (Bioderm Research), there is provided cosmetic compositions comprising a complex of active oxygen donor agent and zeolite. However, these compositions are not completely satisfactory in terms of efficiency and / or stability. In addition, these compositions mainly have a whitening effect on the skin and an action on acne.

There is therefore still a need to propose such cosmetic treatments for the perceptible and lasting improvement in the appearance of the skin, in particular with a view to obtaining a smoothing of the cutaneous relief, less apparent pores, and / or a microrelief and less noticeable wrinkles, fading of spots, a brighter complexion, especially for dull or dark skin and a clearer, less shiny skin, especially for oily skin.

The Applicant has been able to show, surprisingly and unexpectedly, that a cosmetic set as defined below makes it possible to fulfill the needs specified above.

The compositions of the cosmetic assembly developed by the Applicant are stable, and particularly effective for improving the appearance of the skin. In addition, the care proposed with the cosmetic set according to the present invention is better tolerated by the skin than the cosmetic care available. The subject of the invention is therefore a cosmetic assembly comprising:

a first composition comprising at least one polymer-H ₂ θ ₂ complex, said polymer being in the form of polymeric porous particles, and

a second composition comprising at least one activator promoting the decomposition of H ₂ O ₂ .

The use of the cosmetic assembly according to the invention makes it possible to improve the appearance of the skin, in particular by attenuating the skin imperfections, the spots and the acne lesions, by smoothing the cutaneous relief, making the less visible pores (in particular by reducing the size of the pores), by reducing the number of pimples and blackheads, by making the microrelief and the wrinkles less visible, by restoring radiance to the skin, in particular dull skin, ash or dark, and / or improving the appearance of oily skin, especially by promoting the dullness of the skin or by decreasing the shine of the skin. The cosmetic assembly according to the invention also makes it possible to lighten the skin, to promote the radiance of the complexion, to homogenize the complexion, to diminish the spots, in particular the age spots or the spots due to the sun, or to improve the makeup hold.

The subject of the invention is therefore a cosmetic process for improving the appearance of the skin, and in particular for giving at least one of the effects on the skin mentioned above, comprising the application on the skin of the cosmetic assembly according to the invention, after mixing the compositions constituting said set.

The subject of the invention is also a cosmetic process for the care of oily skin, in particular with a view to mattifying the skin, comprising the topical application thereto of the cosmetic assembly as described above, after mixing the compositions. constituting said assembly.

The compositions constituting the cosmetic assembly according to the invention will now be described in detail. The first composition of the cosmetic assembly according to the invention is therefore a composition which comprises at least one polymer-H ₂ θ ₂ complex.

The term "polymer complex-H ₂ O ₂ ", in the context of the present invention, denotes a complex between a polymer as defined below and hydrogen peroxide. The complex may in particular be formed before incorporation into the first composition according to the invention. In said complex, the hydrogen peroxide is trapped in the pores of the particles of said polymer.

The term "polymer", in the context of the present invention, a polymerization product in the form of porous particles. In the context of the present invention, the term "porous" refers to the presence of spaces and interstices between the crosslinks of the polymer which increase the total surface of the polymer beyond the measurement of its mere perimeter. The polymer is therefore a particulate polymeric material characterized preferentially by a high adsorption capacity of solids and liquids. In particular, the polymer is capable of forming a complex with hydrogen peroxide.

Thus, this high adsorption capacity may, in particular, represent at least 50%, more particularly at least 70%, or even more than 75% by weight of adsorbed material relative to the total weight of adsorbed material and polymer (s) forming said particles.

The polymer particles considered according to the present invention generally have, advantageously, a low density generally less than 0.5 g / ml, in particular less than 0.1 g / ml, in particular less than 0.01 g / ml, and in particular of the order of 0.08 g / ml. The particles used are preferably spherical, or substantially spherical, and preferably have a mean diameter, by volume, greater than 10 microns and less than 100 microns, advantageously between 10 and 50 microns, or even between 20 and 50 microns.

Preferably, the polymer particles considered according to the present invention correspond to the polymerization product of at least one, and preferably at least two, monomer (s) having at least two unsaturated bonds (referred to below as polyunsaturated monomers). the polymerized monomers comprising less than about 40% by weight monounsaturated comonomers based on the total weight of monomers, preferably less than 9% by weight.

The polyunsaturated monomers are selected from polyacrylates, polymethacrylates, polyitaconates and mixtures thereof. In particular, include polyacrylates, polymethacrylates or polyitaconates: ethylene glycol, propylene glycol; di-, tri-, tetra- or poly-ethylene glycol and di-, tri-, tetra- or polypropylene glycol.

Another group of monomers usable in the context of the present invention comprises di- or polyvinyl esters, such as divinylpropylene urea, divinyloxalate, divinylmalonate, divinylsuccinate, divinylglutamate, divinyladipate, divinylsebacate, divinylmaleate, divinylfumerate, divinylcitraconate and divinylmesaconate.

Other suitable polyethylenic unsaturated crosslinking monomers include ethylene glycol diacrylate, diallyl phthalate, trimethylolpropanetrimethacrylate, polyvinyl and polyallyl ethers of ethylene glycol, glycerol, pentaerythritol, diethylene glycol, monothio and dithio derivatives. glycols, and resorcinol.

Advantageously, the polymer particles considered according to the present invention are copolymers of allyl methacrylate. In particular, these particles are derived from a polymerization of at least two polyunsaturated monomers of the type, for example, allyl methacrylate and ethylene glycol dimethacrylate. Preferred polymeric particles include a copolymer of allyl methacrylate and ethylene glycol dimethacrylate, a copolymer of ethylene glycol dimethacrylate and lauryl methacrylate, a copolymer of methyl methacrylate and ethylene glycol dimethacrylate, a copolymer of 2-ethylhexyl acrylate, styrene and divinylbenzene, and mixtures thereof.

Specific polymeric particles useful in the implementation of the present invention, mention may be made of particles sold under the names POLYPORE® ^® E200, POLYPORE® ^® L200, Polytrap, MICROSPONGE or Poly-HIPE.

In a particular embodiment, two polyunsaturated polymerized monomers are used. Allyl methacrylates polymerized with ethylene glycol dimethacrylate are particularly suitable for trapping hydrogen peroxide to form a polymer-hydrogen peroxide complex. This specific polymerization product is a polymeric porous sphere of powdery appearance.

The polymer complexes-H ₂ θ ₂ can be produced by procedures well known to those skilled in the art. In particular, one of the methods described in the international application WO 2006/073822 (Colgate), and more particularly in the international application WO 2007/024265, may be chosen. Particularly suitable as polymers are the porous microspheres of allyl polymethacrylate and ethylene glycol dimethacrylate, in particular described in US Pat. No. 6,419,053, for example those marketed by AMCOL under the names Polypore E200. ^® and Polypore L200 ^® . Commercially available polymer-H ₂ O ₂ complexes may also be suitable. As polymer-H ₂ θ ₂ complex, mention may be made of porous microspheres of allyl polymethacrylate and ethylene glycol dimethacrylate complexed with hydrogen peroxide. These microspheres are marketed by Amcol under the name Polypore 337 HP ^® containing 25 wt% polymer Polypore E200 ^® described above, 37.5 wt% H2O2 and 37.5% by weight of water based on the weight total.

Due to their high absorption capacity, the polymer particles according to the invention have sebo-regulating properties. In addition, the polymer-H ₂ O ₂ complexes used have the same activity as free hydrogen peroxide, at an equivalent rate of H ₂ O ₂ , regardless of the formulation medium. They allow easy application, a good hold of the product on the face, especially avoiding it running in the eyes.

The amount of hydrogen peroxide in the complex described above can be expressed as a percentage by weight of hydrogen peroxide with respect to the total weight of said complex.

The peroxide index (PI) is the amount of product (the polymer complex - H ₂ O ₂ containing hydrogen peroxide) present in the sample, expressed in milliequivalents of active oxygen per kilogram, oxidizing the iodide of potassium under the operating conditions defined by ISO 3960 and AFNOR T 60-220.

The% by weight of H ₂ O ₂ in the complex corresponds to: IP of the combination containing peroxide / 1000/10 × PM, knowing that: PM = molecular weight of H ₂ O ₂ and IP = peroxide value for a raw material (in particular the polymer-H ₂ O ₂ complex containing hydrogen peroxide) calculated under the operating conditions defined by ISO 3960 and AFNOR T 60-220.

For example, the amount of hydrogen peroxide in said complex may be in particular between 0.1 to 50% by weight, preferably 10 to 50% by weight.

45% by weight relative to the weight of said complex. Preferably, the amount of hydrogen peroxide is 37.5%, as in the complex marketed by AMCOL under the name Polypore 337 HP.

Preferably, the amount of H2O2 in the first composition is between 0.1 and 50% by weight. Preferably, it is between 0.1 and 40% by weight.

In a preferred embodiment, the first composition of the cosmetic assembly comprises 0.5 to 40% by weight of hydrogen peroxide relative to the total weight of said first composition.

Advantageously, the amount of complex described above is such that the content of H 2 O 2 in the cosmetic assembly (that is to say the composition resulting from the mixing of the first and second compositions of the cosmetic assembly defined below. above) is between 0.01 and 7%, preferably between 0.05 and 5%, preferably between 0.1 and 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the cosmetic assembly. Specific H2O2 contents being 0.05; 0.1; 0.2; 0.3; 0.4; 0.5; 0.6; 0.7; 0.8; 0.9; 1; 2; 3 and 4% by weight relative to the total weight of the cosmetic assembly.

The amount of polymer-H ₂ O ₂ complex in the first composition can be in particular between 0.1 and 100% by weight relative to the total weight of the first composition.

According to a particular embodiment, the first composition consists of the polymer-H ₂ θ ₂ complex, said polymer preferably being a copolymer based on allyl methacrylate, and in particular a copolymer of allyl methacrylate and ethylene glycol dimethacrylate. According to this mode, the first composition is in particular in powder form.

According to another embodiment, the first composition comprises in particular between 0.5 and 85% by weight of the polymer-H ₂ O ₂ complex, in especially between 1 and 75%, between 2 and 55%, between 3 and 45%, preferably between 5% and 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the first composition. Advantageously, the complex is present in an amount of between 5 and 12% by weight relative to the total weight of the first composition.

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the first composition of the cosmetic assembly comprises a polymer-H ₂ θ ₂ complex and a cosmetically or dermatologically acceptable anhydrous carrier. The assembly according to the invention being intended for topical use on the skin, the vehicle in the first composition must be acceptable from the cosmetic or dermatological standpoint, more particularly without odor, color or unpleasant appearance, and which does not generate tingling. tugging or redness unacceptable to the user.

By a cosmetically or dermatologically acceptable carrier, an environment compatible with keratin materials of human beings such as the skin, the mucous membranes, the nails, the scalp and / or the hair is understood.

The term "carrier" in the context of the present invention refers to an organic solvent or a mixture of organic solvents. The organic solvents may especially be chosen from vehicles based on glycols (glycolated vehicles), alcohols (alcoholic vehicles), oils, ketones, ethers, esters, aldehydes and their mixture, which are acceptable from the cosmetic or dermatological point of view.

By alcoholic vehicle is meant a vehicle comprising at least one water-soluble lower monoalcohol representing at least 50% by weight of the vehicle. By lower monoalcohol is meant an alcohol having from 1 to 8 carbon atoms and comprising only one hydroxyl function. Lower monoalcohols include, for example, ethanol, isopropanol, butanol, pentanol and mixtures thereof. Preferably, primary alcohols having 1 to 4 carbon atoms are selected. Ethanol is preferred. By glycol carrier means a vehicle comprising at least one organic compound having at least two hydroxyl functions (referred to herein as glycol).

There may be mentioned in particular: glycerol; monomeric glycols, and in particular diols, such as in particular propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, butylene glycol, diethylene glycol, ethylene glycol, hexylene glycol, isoprene glycol, pentylene glycol, butanediol, 1,2-propanediol, 1, Propanediol, pentanediols, especially 1,5-pentanediol, decanediol, dodecanediol, and their ethers, such as propylene glycol monomethyl ether, dipropylene glycol monobutyl ether or 2-butoxyethanol; polymeric glycols, such as in particular high or low molecular weight polyethylene glycols (PEG) and in particular polyethylene glycols with a molecular weight of less than 600, such as PEG-8 (or polyethylene 400), PEG-6, and PEG-12.

Among the preferred glycols mention may be made of monomeric glycols, and in particular diols. Preferably, the glycol present in the glycol carrier is a diol monomer, especially propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, butylene glycol, diethylene glycol, ethylene glycol, hexylene glycol, isoprene glycol, pentylene glycol, butanediol, 1,2-propanediol, 1 , 3 propanediol, pentanediols, especially 1,5-pentanediol, decanediol, dodecanediol, or a mixture thereof. Preferably, it is butylene glycol or propylene glycol.

Preferred PEGs are PEG-8 or PEG-6.

According to one particular embodiment, the glycolic vehicle according to the invention comprises at least two glycols chosen from monomeric glycols and PEGs. According to another particular mode, the glycol carrier according to the invention comprises at least one diol and at least one glycol selected from glycerine or a PEG. By way of example, the glycol carrier may comprise the following combinations of glycols: (propylene glycol or butylene glycol) and glycerine;

- (propylene glycol or butylene glycol) and PEG8;

- (propylene glycol or butylene glycol) and glycerine and PEG-8.

Advantageously, the glycol vehicle according to the invention comprises butylene glycol and optionally PEG-8. Preferably, the glycol carrier comprises PEG-8.

According to a preferred embodiment, when the glycolic carrier contains a glycols / glycerin mixture, the glycerin content will be less than 50% by weight of glycerin relative to the total weight of the vehicle.

According to another embodiment, the vehicle comprises a vehicle comprising at least one glycol as defined above (including the preferred modes), preferably a monomeric glycol and / or a polymeric glycol, and at least one alcohol as defined herein. above, preferably ethanol.

As oils that can be used in the composition of the invention, mention may be made for example of:

linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, such as paraffin oils, volatile or not, and their derivatives, petroleum jelly, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam® oil; branched alkanes, C ₈ -C ₆ isoalkanes C ₈ -C _6, such as isododecane (also known as 2,2,4,4, 6-pentamethylheptane), isodecane and isohexadecane; triglycerides, such as liquid triglycerides of fatty acids containing from 4 to 10 carbon atoms, such as triglycerides of heptanoic or octanoic acids; or hydrocarbon oils of vegetable origin such for example, sweet almond, sunflower, maize, soya, squash, coriander, grape seed, sesame, hazelnut, apricot (Prunus Armenica OiI), macadamia, arara, castor, avocado, triglycerides of caprylic / capric acids such as those sold by the company Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810, 812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel, jojoba oil, shea butter oil;

esters and synthetic ethers, in particular of fatty acids, such as the oils of formulas R ¹ COOR ² and R ¹ OR ² in which R ¹ represents the residue of a fatty acid comprising from 8 to 29 carbon atoms, and R ² represents a hydrocarbon chain, branched or unbranched, containing from 3 to 30 carbon atoms, for example Purcellin oil or 660084 PCL-LIQUID from the company SYMRISE (a mixture of cetylstearyl ethyl 2 hexanoate and isopropyl myristate), isononyl isononanoate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate (or octyl palmitate), octyl-2 stearate dodecyl, octyl-2-dodecyl erucate, isostearyl isostearate, dicaprylyl ether; hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate, octyl hydroxystearate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate, diisostearyl malate, triisocetyl citrate, heptanoates, octanoates, decanoates of fatty alcohols; polyol esters, such as propylene glycol dioctanoate, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate and diethylene glycol diisononanoate; and pentaerythritol esters such as pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate;

fatty alcohols having from 8 to 26 carbon atoms, such as isoketyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol and their mixture (cetearyl alcohol), octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, oleic alcohol or linoleic alcohol;

the partially hydrocarbon-based and / or silicone-based fluorinated oils, such as those described in document JP-A-2-295912, as fluorinated oils, mention may also be made of perfluoromethylcyclopentane and perfluoro-1,3-dimethylcyclohexane, sold under the names " FLUTEC PC1 ^® "and" FLUTEC PC3 ^® "by BNFL Fluorochemicals; perfluoro-1,2-dimethylcyclobutane; perfluoroalkanes such as dodecafluoropentane and tetradecafluorohexane, sold under the names "PF 5050 ^®" and "PF 5060 ^®" by the company 3M, or bromoperfluorooctyl sold under the name "FORALKYL ^®" by the company Atochem; nonafluoromethoxybutane sold under the name "MSX 4518 ^®" by the company 3M and nonafluoroethoxyisobutane; perfluoromorpholine derivatives, such as 4-trifluoromethylperfluoromorpholine sold under the name "PF 5052 ^®" by the company 3M;

silicone oils such as volatile or non-volatile polymethylsiloxanes (PDMS) with a linear or cyclic silicone chain, which are liquid or pasty at room temperature, in particular cyclopolydimethylsiloxanes (cyclomethicones) such as cyclohexasiloxane and cyclopentasiloxane; polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl, alkoxy or phenyl groups, during or at the end of the silicone chain, groups having from 2 to 24 carbon atoms; phenyl silicones such as phenyltrimethicones, phenyldimethicones, phenyltrimethylsiloxydiphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl-dimethicones, diphenylmethyl-diphenyltrisiloxanes, 2-phenylethyltrimethylsiloxysilicates, and polymethylphenylsiloxanes;

- their mixtures.

Preferably, volatile oils, and in particular non-oxidizable volatile oils, such as short-chain hydrocarbons, ethers or polydimethylsiloxanes (C2-C20) are used. Dicaprylyl ether and cyclopentasiloxane may be mentioned in particular.

Among the other organic solvents which may be useful as vehicles in the composition, there may be mentioned: ketones which are liquid at room temperature (20-25 ^° C.), such as methyl ethyl ketone, methyl isobutyl ketone, diisobutyl ketone or isophorone, cyclohexanone, acetone; propylene glycol ethers which are liquid at room temperature, such as propylene glycol monomethyl ether, propylene glycol monomethyl ether acetate or dipropylene glycol mono-butyl ether; cyclic ethers such as gamma-butyrolactone; short-chain esters (having from 3 to 8 carbon atoms in total), such as ethyl acetate, methyl, propyl acetate, isopropyl acetate, n-butyl acetate, isopentyl acetate, methoxypropyl acetate, butyl lactate; ethers which are liquid at ambient temperature, such as diethyl ether, dimethyl ether or dichlorodiethyl ether; aldehydes that are liquid at room temperature, such as benzaldehyde or acetaldehyde; and their mixtures.

In a particularly advantageous embodiment, the first composition according to the present invention comprises, as polymer-H ₂ O _2, the polymer-H ₂ O ₂ marketed by Amcol under the name Polypore 337HP ^®. Preferably, this complex is dispersed in PEG-8 and / or ethanol.

In a particular embodiment, the first composition of the cosmetic assembly according to the invention is anhydrous. In other words, the water content in the first composition is low. Thus, the amount of water does not generally exceed 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the first composition. It may in particular contain a small amount of water that usually comes from the raw materials used. In this embodiment, the quantity of water in the first composition is preferably less than or equal to 7% by weight relative to the total weight of the first composition, more preferably less than 5%, preferably less than 4%. In this particular embodiment, the low water content in the first composition according to the invention has the effect of a greater stability of the hydrogen peroxide in the composition.

In a preferred embodiment, the first composition of the assembly according to the invention does not comprise an activator promoting the decomposition of H ₂ O ₂ (see below the description of the second composition for the definition of the term "activator". promoting the decomposition of H ₂ O ₂ "). The activator is thus separated from hydrogen peroxide, which makes it possible to improve the effectiveness of the cosmetic treatment according to the invention. The second composition of the cosmetic assembly comprises at least one activator promoting the decomposition of H2O2.

The term "H2O2 decomposing activator" covers any molecule or composition that can cause the decomposition of H2O2 into water and oxygen.

This term therefore covers a large number of compounds known to those skilled in the art. As activators, mention may in particular be made of basic compounds, especially sodium or potassium hydroxide, ammonia or triethanolamine, sodium bicarbonate (or ammonium), sodium carbonate, gluconate manganese, sodium borate, calcium peroxide, calcium hydroxide, basic amino acids and their salts, such as guanidine, lysine, arginine and their salts; potassium carbonate, urea, aminomethylpropanol, aminopropanol, monoethanolamine (MEA), aminopropylthethoxysilane (APTES), derivatives of sodium or magnesium silicates, in particular laponite (in particular Laponite XLG sold by the company Rockwood), smectite, sodium metasilicate, hectorite, basic zeolites, in particular the zeolite marketed by Zeochem under the reference X-MOL, or their mixture. Advantageously, the activators are chosen from sodium bicarbonate, laponite, zeolites, calcium peroxide, sodium hydroxide (preferably 10% in water), sodium metasilicate and their mixture. The activators are preferably selected from sodium bicarbonate, zeolites and calcium peroxide. In a particularly preferred manner, the activator is a zeolite. Thus, in a particular embodiment, the second composition of the cosmetic assembly according to the invention comprises a zeolite.

The activator may preferably be chosen from compounds or compositions capable of generating a pH greater than 8.5, preferably greater than 9, when they are mixed with a polymer-H ₂ O ₂ complex at 5.3% by weight in the polymer. water (with a percentage of H ₂ O ₂ of 2% in the aqueous composition) relative to the total weight of the mixture (polymer-H ₂ O ₂ / water). The following protocol can be used to select the activators. Is produced a dispersion of 5.3 g of Polypore 337 HP ^® (Amcol) in 75g of water to which was added increasing amounts of activator. The pH is measured immediately after each addition. The excess activator is added until the Activator / H ₂ θ ₂ weight ratio reaches 10. In this example, the amount of H ₂ O ₂ is about 2 g because the Polypore 337 HP ^® contains 37, 5% H ₂ O ₂ by weight relative to the total weight of Polypore 337 HP ^® (that is to say the complex).

The preferred activators are chosen from Rockwood XLG laponite, Zeochem marketed zeolite X-MOL, calcium peroxide, sodium hydroxide (10% in water), sodium metasilicate and their mixture (see Table 1). below).

Table 1

Those skilled in the art will pay particular attention to introducing a sufficient quantity of the activator so that the decomposition of H ₂ O ₂ , after mixing the compositions of the cosmetic assembly according to the invention, is effective in improving the appearance of the skin of the user.

It is preferable to choose one or more activators which make it possible to obtain, in the test described above, a pH of between 9 and 11, preferably between 9 and 10. The amount of activators in the second composition depends on the components of the first and second compositions of the assembly according to the invention, their respective amounts and their galenic forms. In particular, those skilled in the art will take care to choose the amount of activators so that when the compositions of the cosmetic assembly according to the invention are mixed, the resulting mixture can express a pH greater than 8.5, preferably greater than 9, and especially between 9 and 11, preferably between 9 and 10. For reasons of tolerance, however, a pH of between 9 and 9.5 is preferred. As an illustration, it will be possible to use amounts of activators defined on the basis of Table 1 above.

By "possibility of expressing a pH", in the context of the present invention, it is intended to define the pH of the mixture of the two compositions of the cosmetic assembly when this mixture comprises water.

In the case where the mixture of the two compositions does not contain enough water to allow the measurement of a pH, water is added to this mixture, for example in an amount greater than 15%, preferably greater than 20%. by weight relative to the total weight of water + mixture of the compositions, and the pH is measured. This measured pH is the pH expressed.

The second composition comprises at least one activator and optionally a cosmetically or dermatologically acceptable carrier.

According to one variant, the second composition consists solely of one or more activators. According to this variant, the second composition may be in powder form.

According to another variant, the second composition comprises at least one activator and a cosmetically or dermatologically acceptable carrier. The assembly according to the invention being intended for topical use on the skin, the vehicle in the second composition must also be acceptable from the cosmetic or dermatological standpoint, more particularly without odor, color or unpleasant appearance, and which does not generate tingling, tightness or redness unacceptable to the user.

The same vehicles as those described above for the first composition of the cosmetic assembly can be used in the second composition. The second composition may further include water.

In a particular embodiment, the second composition of the assembly according to the invention is an anhydrous composition. In other words, the water content in the second composition is low. Thus, the amount of water does not generally exceed 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the second composition. It may in particular contain a small amount of water that usually comes from the raw materials used. The amount of water in the second composition is preferably less than or equal to 7% by weight relative to the total weight of the second composition, more preferably less than 5%, preferably less than 4%.

In another embodiment, the second composition according to the invention is a composition comprising water. The amount of water depends on the type of composition envisaged for the cosmetic treatment. Preferably, this composition contains water in an amount such that the mixture of the first and second compositions of the cosmetic assembly according to the invention comprises less than 50%, preferably less than 30%, by weight of water per relative to the total weight of the mixture, preferably less than 20% by weight. According to this mode and preferably, the second composition comprises more than 10% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the second composition. In a preferred embodiment, the second composition of the assembly according to the invention does not comprise H2O2.

According to one particular embodiment of the invention, the second composition of the assembly according to the invention is anhydrous.

In a particular embodiment, the compositions of the cosmetic assembly according to the invention may also comprise at least one gelling agent or thickener. Those skilled in the art will take care to incorporate into one or other of the compositions, or both, any gelling agent compatible with a cosmetic or dermatological use. Mention may in particular be made, as a gelling agent, of alkyl polyethylene glycol (or alternatively referred to as PEG alkyl), such as in particular PEG 120 methyl di (or tri) oleate (Noveon Glucamate DOE 120, for example), PEG 150 pentaerytrityl tetrastearate (Croda's Crothix, for example); cellulose derivatives, such as in particular hydroxypropyl methyl cellulose (Klucel HF Pharm from Aqualon Hercules, for example); or poloxamers, such as in particular a condensate of ethylene oxide, propylene oxide and ethylene oxide (for example: 128 EO / 54 OP / 128 EO) (MW: 14000) marketed under the SYNPERONIC PE / F108 denomination by Uniquema (INCI name: Poloxamer 338); or acrylic homo- and copolymers and homo- and copolymers of acrylamido methylpropanesulphonic acid (AMPS: Ammonium polyacryloyldimethyl taurate (for example: Hostacerin AMPS de Clahant).

The amount of gelling agent in the compositions may vary to a large extent, it is preferably between 0.01 and 10% by weight, preferably between 0.5 and 5%, relative to the total weight of the composition concerned.

It is also possible to combine in the compositions according to the invention additives and / or cosmetic or dermatological active agents. It may thus be advantageous to use foaming surfactants.

Foaming surfactants are detergents and are distinguished from emulsifying surfactants by the value of their HLB (Hydrophilic Lipophilic Balance), the HLB being the ratio between the hydrophilic part and the lipophilic part in the molecule. The term HLB is well known to those skilled in the art and is described for example in "The HLB System." A time-saving guide to emulsifying

Selection "(published by ICI Americas Inc, 1984).

For emulsifying surfactants, the HLB generally ranges from 3 to 8 for the preparation of water-in-oil (W / O) emulsions and from 8 to 18 for the preparation of oil-in-water (O / W) emulsions, while foaming surfactants generally have an HLB greater than 20.

Advantageously, the compositions according to the invention may comprise a surfactant having an HLB greater than 20.

The surfactant may be present in a composition of the combination according to the invention in an amount ranging from 0.1 to 50% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to

35% by weight, preferably ranging from 0.5 to 20% by weight, in particular from 1 to 15% by weight, or even 5 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition concerned.

The nonionic surfactants may be chosen for example from alkyl polyglucosides (APG), maltose esters, polyglycerolated fatty alcohols, glucamine derivatives such as 2-ethylhexyloxycarbonyl-n-methylglucamine, and mixtures thereof. As alkylpolyglucosides, use is preferably made of those containing an alkyl group containing from 6 to 30 carbon atoms and preferably from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and containing a hydrophilic group (glucoside) preferably comprising 1, 2 to 3 glucoside units. . As alkylpolyglucosides include eg decyl glucoside (Alkyl-C9 / C11 -polyglucoside (1.4)) as the product sold under the name Mydol 10 ^® by Kao Chemicals, the product sold under the name Plantaren 2000 UP ^® by Cognis and the product sold under the name Oramix NS 10 ^® by Seppic; caprylyl / capryl glucoside as the product sold under the name Oramix CG 110 ^® by the company Seppic; lauryl glucoside such as the products marketed under the names Plantaren 1200 N ^® and 1200 ^® PLANTACARE by Cognis; coco-glucoside as the product sold under the name PLANTACARE 818 / UP ^® by Cognis; and their mixtures.

The maltose derivatives are, for example, those described in document EP-A-566438, such as O-octanoyl-6'-D-maltose, or else O-dodecanoyl-6'-D-maltose described in document FR-2739556. Among the polyglycerolated fatty alcohols include polyglycerolated dodecanediol (3.5 mol of glycerol), a product sold under the name Chimexane ^® NF by Chimex.

The anionic surfactants may be chosen for example from soaps (alkaline salts of fatty acids), carboxylates, acylamino acids, amidoether carboxylates, alkyl polyaminocarboxylates, alkyl ether sulfates such as sodium laureth sulphates, alkyl sulphonates, isethionates, alkyl methyltaurates, alkyl sulfosuccinates, alkylsulfoacetates, alkylphosphates (mono or dialkylphosphates), their salts, and mixtures thereof.

As carboxylates, mention may be made especially alkyl glycol carboxylic acids (or acid 2- (2-hydroxyalkyloxy acetic acid), and their salts such as for example sodium lauryl glycol carboxylate, sold under the names Beaulight SHAA ^® or Beaulight LCA-25N ^® by the company SANYO (CTFA name: Sodium Lauryl Glycol Carboxylate), or its corresponding acid form marketed under the name BEAULIGHT SHAA (Acid Form) ^® by SANYO.

As acylamino acids, mention may be made, for example, of sodium cocoylglycinate marketed by Ajinomoto under the name Amilite GCS 12, sodium lauroyl glutamate sold by the company Ajinomoto under the name Amisoft LS11 and sodium lauroyl sarcosinate marketed by the company Seppic. under the name ORAMIX L 30. As alkylphosphates, mention may be made, for example, of the lauryl phosphate sold by Kao under the name MAP 20.

The amphoteric and zwitterionic foaming surfactants may be chosen, for example, from betaine derivatives including amidopropylbetaines, amphoacetates and amphodiacetates, hydroxylsultaines and their mixtures.

As betaine derivatives include for example the coco betaine as the product sold under the name DEHYTON AB-30 ^® by Cognis; lauryl such as the product sold under the name Genagen KB ^® by Clariant; oxyethylenated (10 EO) as the product sold under the name Lauryl Ether (10 EO) Betaine ^® by Shin Nihon Rica; oxyethylenated (10 EO) as the product sold under the name Stearyl Ether (10 EO) Betaine ^® by Shin Nihon Rica; cocamidopropyl betaine marketed for example under the name VELVETEX BK 35 ^® by Cognis; the undecylenamidopropyl betaine sold, for example under the name Amphoram U ^® by Ceca; and their mixtures. As amphoacetates and amphodiacetates, there may be mentioned for example N-cocoyl-N-carboxymethoxyethyl-N-carboxymethyl-N-ethylenediamine disodium (CTFA name: disodium cocamphodiacetate) as the product sold under the name MIRANOL C2M CONC ^® NP by the Rhodia Chimie company; N-cocoyl-N-hydroxyethyl-N-carboxymethyl-ethylenediamine N-sodium (CTFA name: sodium cocamphoacetate) and mixtures thereof.

According to one embodiment of the invention, a surfactant that is suitable for the invention may be chosen from alkylpolyglucosides, betaine derivatives, alkylglycol carboxylic acids and their salts, alkyl ether sulfates, alkylphosphates, amphodiacetates, amphoacetates, alkylglycinates, acyls glutamates, acyls sarcosinates and mixtures thereof.

According to one embodiment, a surfactant that is suitable for the invention may be chosen from decyl glucoside, cocoyl glucoside, lauryl ether sulphate and sodium, cocoyl betaine, lauroyl betaine, cocamidopropyl betaine, lauramido propyl betaine, lauryl glycol carboxylate, cocoampho (di) acetate, lauroampho (di) acetate, potassium lauryl phosphate, a mixture thereof.

Preferred foaming surfactants include:

- sodium cocoyl isethionate, such as the mixture sodium cocoyl isethionate / sodium isethionoate marketed by BASF under the name Jordapon CI P ^®; - decyl glucoside, such as the Plantacare 2000 UP ^® marketed by Cognis;

- potassium laurate, such as LAURATE Potassium DUB LK ^® marketed by Stearinerie Dubois;

- Sodium lauroyl OAT amino acids, such as aqueous 30% solution of lauroyl oat amino acids of the form of protected sodium salt (1, 4% phenonip) sold under the name Proteol OAT ^® by Seppic;

potassium lauroyl wheat amino acids, such as potassium-lauroyl wheat protein hydrolyzed in water at 25% stabilized (0.4-0.4% potassium phenon-sorbate), marketed under the name AMINOFOAM W OR ^® by Croda;

- polyglyceryl-3 hydroxylauryl ether or dodecanediol polyglycerolated (3.5 mol of glycerol), such as Chimexane ^® from Chimex;

- sodium lauryl ether sulfate, such as Texapon ^® AOS 225 UP Cognis; - N-cocoyl-N-carboxymethoxyethyl-N-carboxymethyl-N-di sodium ethylene diamine (CTFA name: disodium cocamphodiacetate) as the product sold under the name Miranol C2M Concentrate ^® NP by the company Rhodia Chimie;

cocaine betaine or cocoyl betaine in aqueous solution, such as Rhodia's MIRATAINE BB / FLA;

- PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate or glyceryl cocoate oxyethylenated (7 EO), such as Cetiol ^® HE from Cognis; - lauryl betaine as lauryldimethylamine betaine in 30% aqueous solution, sold under the name Empigen BB / LS ^® by Huntsman;

- sodium cocoamphoacetate, such as N-cocyl amidoethyl, N-hydroxyethyl sodium glycinate in 32% aqueous solution sold under the name MIRANOL ULTRA C 32 ^® by Rhodia;

- lauryl sulfate triethanolamine or TEA lauryl sulphate, such as triethanolamine lauryl sulphate (70/30 C12 / C14) in 40% aqueous solution sold under the name TEXAPON ^® T 42 by Cognis; - sodium lauryl glycol carboxylate, sold under the names Beaulight SHAA ^® or Beaulight LCA-25N ^® by the company Sanyo (CTFA name: Sodium Lauryl Glycol Carboxylate) or its corresponding acid form sold under the name Beaulight SHAA (Acid Form) ^® by SANYO; - lauryl phosphate sold by Kao under the name MAP 20 ^®;

- sodium cocoyl glycinate, such as Amilite GCS ^® 12 from Ajinomoto.

Exfoliating particles, fillers or mixtures thereof can also be used in the compositions of the assembly according to the invention.

As exfoliating particles, exfoliating or exfoliating particles of mineral, vegetable or organic origin may be used. Thus, it is possible to use, for example, the balls or the polyethylene powder, such as those sold under the name Microthene MN 727 or Microthene MN 710-20 by the company Equistar or the powder marketed under the name Gotalene 120 Incolore 2 by the Dupont company. ; nylon particles such as those sold by Arkema under the name Orgasol 2002 EXD NAT COS; fibers such as polyamide fibers, such as those sold by the company Utexbel under the name Polymamide PULP 12185 SIZE 0.3 MM; polyvinyl chloride powder; pumice stone (INCI name: pumice) such as Eyraud's pumice 3 / B; the hulls of crushed fruit cores such as crushed apricot kernels or nut shells; sawdust; glass beads; alumina (aluminum oxide) (INCI name: Alumina) as the product marketed under the name Dermagrain 900 by Marketech International; sugar crystals; beads which melt during application to the skin, such as, for example, spheres based on mannitol and cellulose sold under the names Unisphères by Induchem, agar capsules sold under the names Primasponge by the Cognis company, and spheres based on jojoba esters marketed under the names Florasphères by Floratech; and their mixtures.

The compositions of the assembly according to the invention may also contain other fillers such as, for example, talc, modified starch or not, and in particular starches esterified with octenylsuccinic anhydride and more particularly "Aluminum Starch". octenyl succinate "such as the product marketed by National Starch under the name Dry-Flo.

According to an advantageous embodiment, the compositions of the assembly according to the invention contain at least one filler. These fillers can be any material that can mask the visible or tactile irregularities of the skin. These fillers can in particular modify the surface appearance of the skin by a tightening effect, a camouflage effect, or a blurring effect.

As a filler, the following compounds may be exemplified: - porous silica microparticles, for example Silica Beads ^®

SB 150 and SB 700 of Myochi of average size of 5 μm and SUNSPHERES ^® series H of Asahi Glass as the H33, H51 of size of respectively 3.5 and 5 μm.

- hollow hemispherical silicone resin particles such as NLK 500 ^®, NLK 506 ^® and 510 ^® Takemoto NLK OII and Fat, in particular described in EP-A-1579849, - silicone resin powders such as silicone resin Tospearl ^® 145 from GE Silicone average size of 4.5 .mu.m.

- powders of acrylic copolymers, especially poly (meth) acrylate such as PMMA particles Jurimer MBI ^® Nihon Junyoki average size of 8 .mu.m, hollow PMMA spheres marketed under the name Covabead ^® LH 85 by Wackherr company and expanded vinylidene / acrylonitrile / methylene methacrylate microspheres sold under the name Expancel ^® .

- powders of waxes such as paraffin wax particles microloase ^® 114S Medium sized MicroPowders 7 .mu.m.

- the particular polyethylene powders comprising at least one ethylene / acrylic acid such as ^® Flobeads EA 209 E Medium sized Sumimoto 10 .mu.m.

crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxane powders coated with silicone resin, in particular silsesquioxane under the name KSP

100 ^® , KSP 101 ^® , KSP 102 ^® , KSP 103 ^® , KSP 104 ^® and KSP 105 ^® by Shin Etsu.

talc / dioxide or titanium / alumina / silica composite powders, for example the Cverleaf AR 80 ^® from Catalyst & Chemical. talc, mica, kaolin, lauryl glycine, starch powders crosslinked with octyanyl succinate anhydride, boron nitride, polytetrafluoroethylene powders, precipitated calcium carbonate, hydrocarbon carbonate, magnesium, barium sulfate, hydroxyapatite, calcium silicate, cerium dioxide and microcapsules of glass or ceramics.

- the hydrophilic fibers or natural or synthetic hydrophobic, inorganic or organic such as silk fibers, cotton, wool, flax fiber, cellulose fibers extracted especially from wood, vegetables or algae, polyamide (Nylon ^®), of modified cellulose, poly-p-phenyleneterephthalamide fibers, acrylic fibers, polyolefin fibers, glass, silica, aramid, carbon, polytetrafluoroethylene (Teflon ^®), insoluble collagen, polyester, polyvinyl chloride or vinylidene, of polyvinyl alcohol, polyacrylonitrile, chitosan, polyurethane, polyethylene phthalate, fibers formed from a mixture of polymers, synthetic resorbable fibers, and mixtures thereof described in patent application EP 1 151 742.

- the spherical elastomeric crosslinked silicones such as Trefil E- 505C E-506 ^® or C ^® from Dow Corning.

- abrasive fillers, which via a mechanical effect a smoothing of the skin's microrelief, such as abrasive silica such as abrasive SP ^® of Semanez or powders nuts or shells (apricot or walnut e.g. Cosmetochem).

The charge can be a "soft focus" charge. By "soft-focus" load, we mean a load which in addition gives transparency to the complexion and a fuzzy effect. Preferably, the "soft-focus" charges have an average particle size of less than or equal to 15 microns. These particles can be of any shape and in particular be spherical or nonspherical. More preferably, these fillers are nonspherical.

The "soft-focus" fillers may be chosen from silica and silicate powders, in particular alumina powders, polymethyl methacrylate (PMMA) type powders, talc, silica / TiO 2 or silica / zinc oxide composites, and powders. polyethylene, starch powders, polyamide powders, styrene / acrylic copolymer powders, silicone elastomers, and mixtures thereof.

In particular, include talc medium of less than or equal to 3 microns, for example medium talc number of 1, 8 microns and especially the product sold under the trade name Talc P3 ^® by Nippon Talc , Nylon ^® 12 powder, in particular that sold under the name Orgasol 2002 Extra D Nat Cos ^® by the company Atochem, silica particles treated on the surface with a mineral wax 1 to 2% (INCI name: hydrated silica (and) paraffin) such as those marketed by Degussa, amorphous silica microspheres, such as those sold under the name Sunsphere, for example H-53 ^® reference by Asahi Glass company, and silica microbeads such as those sold under the denomination SB-700 ^® or SB-150 ^® by the company Miyoshi, this list not being limiting.

These exfoliating particles and fillers may be present in an amount ranging, for example, from 0.5 to 20% by weight, preferably from 1 to 15% by weight, better still from 1 to 10% and even more preferably from 2 to 5% by weight. relative to the total weight of the composition.

The compositions of the assembly according to the invention may also comprise all the constituents usually employed in the intended application. In particular, it is advantageous to use in the compositions at least one ingredient and / or an additional active skin care product, in particular oily skin.

It will be possible to combine the additional active ingredients and ingredients described in patent application EP 1 847 247, incorporated herein by reference, among which depigmenting agents, preservatives, antimicrobial agents, antiperspirants, sebum regulating agents, metal chelators , UV filters, hydrolysed proteins, antioxidants, vitamins, anti-inflammatory agents, soothing or anti-irritant agents, moisturizing agents, plant extracts, cosmetic adjuvants, and mixtures thereof.

Of course, those skilled in the art will take care to choose this or these optional additional compounds, and / or their quantity, in such a way that the advantageous overall properties according to the invention are not, or not substantially, impaired by the addition envisaged.

In an advantageous aspect of the invention, the compositions used may further comprise at least one desquamating agent and / or at least one soothing agent. By "desquamating agent" is meant any compound capable of acting: either directly on the desquamation by promoting exfoliation, such as β-hydroxy acids, in particular salicylic acid and its derivatives (the acid of which 5-salicylic octanoyl); α-hydroxy acids, such as glycolic, citric, lactic, tartaric, malic or mandelic acids; urea; gentisic acid; oligofucoses; cinnamic acid; Saphora japonica extract; resveratrol; for the acids, their organic or inorganic salts are preferably used; a salt of n-octanoyl-5-salicylic acid is preferably used; or on the enzymes involved in the desquamation or degradation of corneodesmosomes, glycosidases, stratum corneum chymotryptic enzyme (SCCE) or even other proteases (trypsin, chymotrypsin-like). Mention may be made of the chelating agents of mineral salts: EDTA; N-acyl-N, N ', N' ethylene diaminethacetic acid; aminosulfonic compounds and in particular (N-2-hydroxyethylpiperazine-N-2-ethane) sulfonic acid (HEPES); 2-oxothiazolidine-4-carboxylic acid derivatives (procysteine); glycine-type alpha amino acid derivatives (as described in EP-0 852 949, as well as sodium methyl glycine diacetate marketed by BASF under the trade name TRILON M); honey ; sugar derivatives such as O-octanoyl-6-D-maltose and N-acetyl glucosamine.

As soothing agents that can be used in the compositions of the assembly according to the invention, mention may be made of: pentacyclic triterpenes and plant extracts (eg Glycyrrhiza glabra) containing them, for example β-glycyrrhetinic acid and its salts and / or its derivatives (glycyrrhetinic acid monoglucuronide, stearyl glycyrrhetinate, 3-stearoyloxy glycyrrhetic acid), ursolic acid and its salts, oleanolic acid and its salts, betulinic acid and its salts, an extract of Paeonia suffruticosa and / or lactiflora, salts of salicylic acid and in particular zinc salicylate, phycosaccharides from Codif, an extract of Laminaria saccharina, canola oil, bisabolol and extracts of chamomile, allantoin SEPIC SEPIC SEPICITAL EPC (Vitamin E and C diesterphosphoric acid), unsaturated omega 3 oils such as rose oil musca, cassis, ecchium, fish, plankton extracts, capryloyl glycine, Seppicalm VG (sodium palmitoylproline and waterlily alba) from Seppic, an extract from Pygeum, an extract of Boswellia serrata, an extract of Centipeda cunnighami , an extract of Helianthus annuus, an extract of Linum usitatissimum, tocotrienols, extracts of Cola nitida, piperonal, a clove extract, an extract of Epilobium Angustifolium, aloe vera, an extract of Bacopa moniera , phytosterols, cortisone, hydrocortisone, indomethacin and beta methasone.

These active agents will generally be present in the compositions of the assembly according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.01% to 20% by weight and preferably from 0.1% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Those skilled in the art will take care to choose among these assets those which may have an activity in the conditions of use of the compositions according to the invention. It will also take care to take care that the assets used in their amounts do not disrupt the advantageous properties of the compositions constituting the cosmetic assembly according to the invention, especially in terms of pH.

Preferably, the active ingredients are incorporated in the second composition of the cosmetic assembly, containing the activator of the H2O2 decomposition, or in an additional composition of the cosmetic assembly.

The compositions of the assembly according to the invention may be in any galenical form normally used in the cosmetic or dermatological fields, and compatible with the characteristics of said compositions.

In particular, the first composition consists of polymer-complex

H2O2, preferably in the form of a powder, to be mixed with the second composition before application. In this context, the second composition comprises at least one activator and a cosmetically or dermatologically acceptable carrier. According to another variant, the first composition comprises at least one polymer-H ₂ θ ₂ complex and a cosmetically or dermatologically acceptable vehicle, which is mixed with the second composition. The second composition in this variant may consist of one or more activators, advantageously in powder form.

According to yet another variant, the first composition comprises at least one polymer-H ₂ θ ₂ complex and a cosmetically or dermatologically acceptable anhydrous vehicle, which is mixed with the second composition comprising at least one activator and a vehicle that is acceptable on the plane. cosmetic or dermatological, said vehicle of the second composition being anhydrous or aqueous.

The compositions of the cosmetic assembly of the invention may be more or less fluid and have the appearance of a white or colored cream, an ointment, a milk, a lotion, a serum, a paste, or a mousse. They can optionally be applied to the skin in the form of an aerosol. They can also be in solid form, and for example in the form of a stick. They can be used as a care product and / or as a makeup product.

The compositions of the cosmetic assembly according to the invention, after having mixed them, can constitute a mask, a cream for cleaning, protection, treatment or care for the face, for the hands, for the feet, or for the body (for example, day creams, night creams, make-up removing creams, foundation creams, sunscreen creams); cleansing milk; a lotion, gel or mousse for the care of the skin, such as a cleaning lotion.

According to the invention, the two compositions of the cosmetic assembly can be presented in various forms of cosmetic products, with various containers, compartments, closure elements, applicators, packaging, etc. The invention further relates to a packaging assembly comprising: i. a first compartment containing a first composition containing a polymer-H ₂ θ ₂ complex, ii. a second compartment containing a second composition containing at least one activator promoting the decomposition of H ₂ O ₂ , said second compartment being sealed from the first, and iii. means for allowing the contacting, in particular extemporaneous, of the two compositions.

The first and second composition of the packaging assembly are as defined above.

Such a set advantageously allows the extemporaneous contact of its two compositions, separately packaged respectively in the first and second compartments forming said assembly.

This set may also be provided with means allowing the communication of the first and second compartments and therefore of their respective contents.

The assembly is also advantageously provided with a means conducive to the distribution of the mixture of the two compositions.

More specifically, the first and second compositions for the implementation of the invention are packaged separately inside two compartments, formed either by two separate containers or inside a unitary device.

The container (s) may be in any suitable form. It may be in particular in the form of a bottle, a tube, a jar, a case, a box, a bag or a case. The closure element of the container (s) may be in the form of a removable cap, a lid, a lid, a tearable strip, or a capsule, in particular of the type comprising a body attached to the container and an articulated cap on the body. It can also be in the form of an element ensuring the selective closure of the container, including a pump, a valve, or a valve.

The container may be associated with an applicator. The applicator may be in the form of a brush, as described for example in patent FR 2 722 380.

The applicator may be in the form of a block of foam or elastomer, a felt, or a spatula. The applicator may be free (puff or sponge) or integral with a rod carried by the closure member, as described for example in US Patent 5,492,426. The applicator may be integral with the container, as described for example the patent FR 2 761 959.

The compositions can be contained directly in the container, or indirectly. By way of example, the compositions may be placed on an impregnated support, in particular in the form of a wipe or a buffer, and placed (individually or several) in a box or in a bag. Such a support incorporating the product is described for example in the application WO 01/03538.

The closure member may be coupled to the container by screwing. Alternatively, the coupling between the closure element and the container is other than by screwing, in particular via a bayonet mechanism, snap-fastening, clamping, welding, gluing, or magnetic attraction. By "snapping" is meant in particular any system involving the crossing of a bead or a bead of material by elastic deformation of a portion, in particular of the closure element, then by return to the position not elastically constrained of said portion after crossing the bead or cord. The container may be at least partly made of thermoplastic material. Examples of thermoplastic materials include polypropylene or polyethylene. Alternatively, the container is made of non-thermoplastic material, in particular glass or metal (or alloy).

The container may have rigid walls or deformable walls, in particular in the form of a tube or a tube flask.

The container may include means for causing or facilitating the dispensing of the composition. By way of example, the container may have deformable walls so as to cause the composition to exit in response to an overpressure inside the container, which excess pressure is caused by elastic (or non-elastic) crushing of the walls of the container. .

The container may consist of a housing with a bottom defining at least one housing containing the composition, and a cover, in particular articulated on the bottom, and adapted to cover at least part of said bottom. Such a housing is described for example in patent application WO 03/018423 or in patent FR 2 791 042.

The container may be equipped with a wiper arranged in the vicinity of the opening of the container. Such a wiper makes it possible to wipe the applicator and possibly the rod which it can be secured. Such a wiper is described, for example, in patent FR 2 792 618.

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the container is in the form of a bottle or a flexible bag.

By "unitary device" is meant a device by which the two compartments or containers are integral with each other. Such a device can be obtained by a method of molding in one piece of the two compartments, in particular a thermoplastic material. It can also result from any form of assembly, especially by gluing, welding, or other snap.

According to a first embodiment, the two containers are distinct independent of one another. Such containers may be in various forms. This may include tubes, bottles or cans.

One and / or the other of the containers may be surmounted by a manually operated pump surmounted by a push button for the actuation of the pump and the distribution of the composition via at least one dispensing orifice.

Alternatively, one and / or the other of the containers are pressurized, in particular by means of a propellant, in particular a propellant. In this case, the (or) container (s) is (are) equipped with a valve surmounted by a push button equipped with a nozzle or other means of diffusion for the distribution of the product.

The propellant may be in admixture with at least one of the compositions to be dispensed or separated, in particular via a piston able to slide inside the container, or via the flexible walls of a pocket inside which is arranged the composition.

The containers may be made of various materials: plastic, glass, or metal.

According to a preferred embodiment, the two compositions are contained within a unitary device.

According to one particular embodiment, the first and second compositions of the invention are packaged inside two compartments (51, 52) delimited by a unitary device (1) pump-bottle type as shown in Figure 1 of US Patent 6,672,483.

In particular, each of the compartments is equipped with a pump (41, 42), preferably manually actuated, connected to at least one actuating and dispensing means (3) for delivering, separately or in a mixture, said first and second compositions.

According to a preferred embodiment, the actuating and dispensing means (3) is common to both pumps.

According to an alternative, each of the compartments is pressurized, in particular by means of a propellant, and equipped with a valve connected to at least one actuating and dispensing means making it possible to deliver, separately or as a mixture, said compositions.

In particular, the actuating and dispensing means is common to both valves.

The packaging device shown in FIG. 1 of US Pat. No. 6,672,483 consists of two compartments 51, 52 arranged side by side and formed inside a molded piece 5 obtained from a thermoplastic material. Each of the containers 51, 52 has a neck 53 defining an opening. Inside the neck of each of the containers is mounted a pump 41, 42, which can be with or without air intake.

During assembly, the part 5 delimiting the two compartments 51, 52 is disposed inside a covering element 10.

A pump rod 21a, 22a, of each of the pumps 41, 42 is force-fitted inside a corresponding conduit provided in a single push button 3 configured to allow simultaneous actuation of both pumps, in response to a pressure exerted axially on a surface 35 of the push button 3.

The pushbutton ducts connected to each of the pumps open onto two orifices 31a, 32a disposed in the vicinity of each other on an outer surface of the push button 3. In response to an actuation of the pumps 41, 42, the two compositions come out separately either on the finger of the user, or on a tampon or cotton applicator. The mixture of the two compositions is then made during application to the surface to be treated.

For example, devices as described in US 5,833,121, US 4,773,562 and US 6,672,483 may be used.

According to another particular embodiment, the two compartments are formed inside a single flexible bag, and separated by a weak breaking or welding zone which can be broken at the moment of use, in particular in response to a pressure exercised at a specific point in the bag, at one of the two compartments. Examples of flexible bags with two compartments usable in the present invention are described in particular in the patent applications JP2000272674, WO99 / 51509, EP243730 or FR

The compartments may be made by means of at least one sheet, for example a sheet of a flexible thermoplastic material; and linked to each other by a common border of low welding type. According to a particular embodiment, the common border of the low welding type is over the entire width of the bag, or on a smaller width forming a sealed channel between the two bags.

Preferably, the bag is made with films impermeable to oxygen in the air, such as aluminum. Water-impermeable films can also be used in the form of a polyethylene terephthalate / silicone / polyethylene trilayer (PET / SiOx / PE). Alternatively, the two compartments are formed of two concentric compartments formed inside a tube, and are surmounted by a pump without air intake equipped with a push button to one or two dispensing orifices. Inside the tube is provided a piston which goes up towards the pump as the compositions are taken from the inside of the containers. Such modes of distribution are used in particular for the distribution of toothpastes.

The contents of the aforementioned patents or patent applications are incorporated by reference in this application.

Still other devices can be used for the implementation of the present invention, the essential being that they can allow the separate conditioning of the two compositions of the cosmetic assembly of the present invention and their distribution separately or in combination. mixed.

The cosmetic assembly according to the invention has in particular a lightening effect and a positive effect on the radiance of the complexion, it makes it possible to fade the age spots and / or has a positive effect on the appearance of oily skin, in particular by promoting the dullness of the skin.

The cosmetic assembly according to the invention also makes it possible to lighten the skin, to promote the radiance of the complexion, to homogenize the complexion, to diminish the spots, in particular the age spots, or to improve the makeup hold.

Accordingly, the invention relates to a cosmetic method for improving the appearance of the skin, comprising applying to the skin of the cosmetic assembly according to the invention.

More specifically, the invention relates to a method for reducing skin imperfections, spots and / or acne lesions, for smoothing the cutaneous relief, to make the pores less apparent (in particular by reducing the size of the pores) , by making the microrelief and / or the wrinkles less visible, for restore radiance to the skin, especially dull, ashy or dark skin, to improve the appearance of oily skin, especially by promoting the dullness of the skin, to lighten the skin, to promote the radiance of the complexion, homogenize the complexion, reduce stains, especially age spots or due to the sun, and / or improve the strength of makeup, including the application on the skin of the assembly according to the invention.

Skin blemishes will also be reduced by reducing the number of pimples and blackheads and / or reducing the brightness of the skin.

The assembly according to the invention can be applied in any way that can be envisaged by those skilled in the art in a skin care process.

In particular, it may be envisaged to mix the compositions of said assembly before application to the skin.

Alternatively, it is possible to envisage the prior application of one of the compositions on the skin and then the application of the other composition to the skin thus prepared. For example, in a particular embodiment, the first composition of the assembly according to the invention, containing the polymer-H ₂ θ ₂ complex, preferably a copolymer complex of allyl methacrylate-H ₂ θ ₂ , is firstly applied on the skin. Then, the second composition containing the H ₂ O ₂ decomposition promoting activator is applied to the skin, at least in the area where the first composition has been applied. In another embodiment, the second composition containing the activator defined above is first applied, then the first composition containing the polymer-H ₂ O ₂ complex is applied to the skin, at least in the area where the second composition containing the activator was applied.

According to a preferred embodiment, the method according to the invention further comprises a rinsing step after application to the skin or its integuments of the cosmetic assembly. The invention also relates to the cosmetic use of the cosmetic assembly as described above, to improve the appearance of the skin, and more specifically to reduce skin imperfections, blemishes and / or acne lesions, to smooth the cutaneous relief, to make the pores less apparent (in particular by reducing the size of the pores), by reducing the number of pimples and blackheads, by making the microrelief and / or the wrinkles less visible, to give back glow in the skin, especially dull, ashy or dark skin, to improve the appearance of oily skin, in particular by promoting the dullness of the skin or by decreasing the shine of the skin, to lighten the skin, to promote radiance complexion, homogenize the complexion, reduce stains, especially age spots or due to the sun, and / or improve the strength of makeup, including the application on the skin of the cosmetic assembly according to the invention as q ue previously described.

The cosmetic assembly according to the invention also has the advantage of being able to allow the lightening of the integuments, and in particular the hair or the hairs or down, on the forearms, on the face, in particular at the level of the mustache, etc. .

The cosmetic assembly according to the invention also has the advantage of having a sebo-regulating effect allowing the improvement of the general appearance of the skin, in particular of oily skin.

The subject of the invention is also a cosmetic process for the care of oily skin, in particular with a view to mattifying the skin, comprising the topical application thereto of the cosmetic assembly as described above.

According to a preferred embodiment, said cosmetic process for the care of oily skin further comprises a rinsing step after application to the skin of the compositions of the cosmetic assembly as described above. In particular, the cosmetic assembly is applied to areas of the face or forehead having a gloss.

According to a particular mode, the skin may be wetted, prior to the application of the cosmetic assembly according to the invention.

The methods according to the invention are more particularly intended for persons having a skin of phototype III to VI.

According to a preferred embodiment, after application to the skin, the mixture of the compositions of the cosmetic assembly is rinsed, after a pause period advantageously between 5 and 30 minutes, preferably after a pause time of less than 20 minutes, so even more preferred for a time of about 15 minutes.

The cosmetic unit can be used as a mask, preferably with a weekly, bi-weekly or monthly application frequency. It can also be used as a cure with, for example, a daily application or twice daily for one or two weeks.

The invention further relates to an assembly as described above, as a product for the treatment of acne.

The invention therefore also relates to the use of an assembly as described above, for the manufacture of a product for the treatment of acne.

According to another aspect, the assembly according to the invention is used as an antibacterial active agent, to reduce the amount of acne-causing germs present on the skin, or to limit their development, and in particular to reduce the amount of acne. P. / Acnes, or to limit the development of any of these germs. What is meant by the term "treatment", and all its variations, curative or preventive treatment. The assembly according to the invention can thus be used in a subject with acne. The assembly according to the invention can also be used to delay or slow progression or prevent further progression of acne. The assembly according to the invention may finally be administered to a person not having acne, but whose skin, including oily skin, is acne prone.

The amount of active ingredients present in the compositions of the assembly according to the invention will advantageously be included in the ranges described above, to obtain the desired effect. Of course, those skilled in the art are able to establish the effective amount of said active agents in the assembly according to the invention, and will ensure that the ingredients and / or additional active ingredients introduced into the first and second composition described above. above does not alter the advantageous effects of the assembly according to the invention on the decay of the germs of acne.

According to another aspect, the invention relates to a dermatological treatment method for acne, comprising the topical administration of the assembly according to the invention described above, after mixing the first and second compositions, as described hereinabove. above, to a person in need.

The composition may be applied in any way that can be envisaged by those skilled in the art, and in particular according to the modalities described above for the cosmetic processes according to the invention.

The examples which follow illustrate the invention without limiting its scope. The compounds are, as the case may be, listed in chemical names or CTFA names (International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook).

Legends of the figures FIG. 1 is a graph showing the activation of a polymer-H ₂ θ ₂ complex. This figure shows the ratio between the dissolved oxygen level at a time t, relative to the oxygen level at t ₀ , as a function of time.

Examples

Example 1: Lightening activity measured in vitro

Measuring the lightening activity of a polymer complex -H ₂ O ₂ commercial, the Polypore 337 HP ^® of AMCOL, in different solvents, in a dye fading test.

In Vitro Fade Test Protocol

The dye solution or "solution X" is LCF (Sensant) brilliant blue FC disodium salt solution (Cl: 42090). The dye solution is prepared as follows: 15 mg of dye powder are solubilized in 50 ml of borate buffer pH 10.7 and then diluted again to 1/50 ^th . The borate buffer is prepared in the following manner: 4.77 g of disodium tetraborate, decahydrate (Na ₂ B ₄ O ₇₁ OH ₂ O, M = 381, 37 g / mol) are dissolved with approximately 500 ml of water. The pH is adjusted to 10.7 with addition of a sodium hydroxide solution (approximately 250 ml of 0.1 N NaOH supplemented to 1 liter).

1 g of a dispersion of 10.7% Polypore 337 HP ^® in the dilution medium in question (Ethanol, PEG 8 or Glycerin) is added to 19 g of the solution X. After stirring for 10 minutes in the mixture in the dark, the dispersion is filtered (filter

Cellulose 0.45 μm) and the optical density is measured in the range [400-800] nm at 25 ° C. The dye absorbs at 630nm. The bleaching efficiency is expressed as the percentage of bleaching at t = 10min (ie [DOtiomm (mixture) - DOtiomin (dye) / OD _t0 (dye)] X 100.

The results are given in Table 2 below: Table 2

It is found that the porous polymer-H ₂ O ₂ complex has the same activity as free hydrogen peroxide, at an equivalent rate of H ₂ O ₂ , regardless of the formulation medium and is particularly effective in ethanol and PEG -8. These solvents will be preferred to glycerine.

Example 2: Formulation Examples

The preparations P1 and P2 indicated in Table 3 below are mixed before application to the skin.

20g of formula in thick layer is applied on the face avoiding the contour of the eyes. The skin may be optionally moistened before application of the mixture. The product is left for 10 minutes then rinsed.

Table 3

Note: Polypore 337 HP is marketed by Amcol; the calcium peroxide used is marketed by SPCH.

The blends allow an improvement of the appearance of the skin, with in particular an effect on the mattness of the skin by the combination of the effect of H2O2 and the seboregulatory effect of the porous polymer.

Example 3: Demonstration of the Activation of the Polymer-H? O Complex

The products A and B below are prepared by mixing in a cup preparations P1 and P2 (respectively for each of the two products) in a ratio 1, 5g / 1, 5g.

Preparation 2 of Product A is obtained by Rayneri dispersion of the zeolite powder after swelling the carbomer in the water / butylene glycol mixture.

Polypore-H ₂ θ ₂ complex marketed by AMCOL X-MOL (Zeochem Company)

A dissolved oxygen assay is performed with 782 Oxymeter [Strathkelvin Instruments] connected to a microcathode oxygen electrode (Model 1302).

Preparation for Product A: 10% P1 is diluted in water. Similarly for P2. 500 .mu.l of each diluted solution are introduced into a temperature-controlled chamber, the Mitocell MT200 [Strathkelvin Instruments] in which the electrode is located. Dissolved oxygen is measured after 10 minutes of contact in dissolved μg O 2 / ml. The same operation is performed for Product B.

The results obtained are represented in FIG. 1, in the form of a ratio between the oxygen concentration at the measurement time (t), and the dissolved oxygen concentration measured at the beginning of the experiment (t ₀ ), in function of time.

An excess of dissolved oxygen (at least 10% higher) is thus measured for Product A (corresponding to formula A in the figure below) with respect to Product B (corresponding to formula B in the figure below ).

Dissolved Oxygen is found for Product A and not for Product B.

The germs responsible for Acne (P. acnes) developing in the absence of oxygen (anaerobic bacteria), it is shown that the Polypore-H2O2 complex provides a better activity than in its non-activated form.

Claims

1. Cosmetic assembly comprising:

2. The assembly of claim 1, characterized in that the polymer of the polymer-H ₂ O ₂ complex is a copolymer of allyl methacrylate.

3. The assembly of claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the first composition consists of the polymer-H ₂ O ₂ complex, the first composition being in particular in powder form.

4. The assembly of claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the first composition further comprises a cosmetically or dermatologically acceptable anhydrous carrier.

5. An assembly according to any one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that the second composition consists solely of one or more activators, the second composition being in particular in powder form.

6. An assembly according to any one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that the second composition comprises at least one activator promoting the decomposition of H ₂ O ₂ and a cosmetically or dermatologically acceptable carrier.

7. Assembly according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the activator is chosen from compounds allowing the generation of a pH greater than 8.5 when they are mixed with a polymer-H ₂ O ₂ complex to 5.3% by weight in water relative to the total weight of the polymer-H ₂ O ₂ / water mixture.

8. Assembly according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the activator promoting the decomposition of H2O2 is selected from the group consisting of sodium bicarbonate, laponite, zeolites, calcium peroxide, sodium hydroxide (from preferably 10% in water), sodium metasilicate and their mixture.

9. An assembly according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the vehicle of the first composition is selected from alcoholic vehicles, glycol vehicles, volatile oils or mixtures thereof.

10. Assembly according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the amount of peroxide in the first composition is between 0.1 and 50%, preferably between 0.1 and 40%, by weight relative to total weight of the first composition.

11. Packaging assembly comprising: i. a first compartment containing a first composition containing a polymer-H ₂ θ ₂ complex, ii. a second compartment containing a second composition containing at least one activator promoting the decomposition of H ₂ O ₂ , said second compartment being sealed from the first, and iii. means for allowing the extemporaneous contacting of the two compositions in particular, the first and second compositions of the packaging assembly being as defined in one of the preceding claims.

12. Cosmetic process for improving the appearance of the skin, comprising the application to the skin of the cosmetic assembly according to one of claims 1 to 10.

13. The method of claim 12, characterized in that the improvement of the appearance of the skin comprises the attenuation of skin imperfections, patches and / or acne lesions, the smoothing of the cutaneous relief, the Obtaining less visible pores, microrelief and / or less visible wrinkles, improving the radiance of the skin, in particular dull, ashy or dark skin, or improving the appearance of the skin fat, in particular by promoting the mattness of the skin, the lightening of the skin, the improvement of the homogeneity of the complexion, the reduction of the spots, in particular the spots of old age or due to the sun, and / or the improvement of holding makeup.

14. Cosmetic process for lightening the integuments, comprising the topical application thereto, of the cosmetic set according to one of claims 1 to 10.

15. Method according to one of claims 12 to 14, further comprising a rinsing step after application to the skin or its integuments of the cosmetic assembly.