FR2914551A1 - Non-therapeutic use of copolymer of styrene monomer and carboxylic diacid with ethylenic unsaturation, as soothing agent, to treat and/or prevent discomfort skin reaction e.g. redness, itching, warm, burning sensations and tingling - Google Patents

Abstract

Non-therapeutic use of copolymer of styrene monomer and carboxylic diacid with ethylenic unsaturation, as soothing agent, is claimed. Independent claims are included for: (1) a non-therapeutic use of a composition comprising the copolymer of styrene monomer and carboxylic diacid with ethylenic unsaturation and free of vitamin C or its derivative to treat and/or prevent discomfort skin reaction; (2) a composition for topical application on the skin, mucous membrane and/or scalp comprising the copolymer of styrene monomer and carboxylic diacid and at least the cosmetic or pharmaceutical compound causing irritation to the skin with exception of ascorbic acid and its derivative, in a medium; and (3) a cosmetic process for non-therapeutic care of the skin, hair and/or scalp, comprising applying the composition on the skin, hair and/or scalp.

Description

The subject of the present invention is the non-therapeutic use of a

  copolymer of styrene monomer and ethylenically unsaturated dicarboxylic acid as a soothing agent, and the use of a copolymer of styrene monomer and ethylenically unsaturated dicarboxylic acid for the preparation of a composition intended to prevent and / or treat skin disorders related to skin irritation. The present invention further relates to a cosmetic or dermatological composition comprising the combination of at least one cosmetic or pharmaceutical compound capable of causing irritation of the skin and a copolymer of styrene monomer and ethylenically unsaturated dicarboxylic acid.

  Finally, the present invention relates to a cosmetic process comprising at least one step of applying to the skin, a mucosa, the scalp and / or hair a composition comprising a copolymer of styrenic monomer and dicarboxylic acid.

  Skin reactions may manifest as discomfort felt by the user on the skin. It can typically be redness, itching, heating, burning, tingling, tugging. Cosmetic treatments can remedy this discomfort. Other visible cutaneous signs may also appear, advantageously this time requiring dermatological treatment. Among these visible cutaneous signs include pruritus, scabs, inflammatory erythema, oedemas and / or pimples, or skin irritation reactions.

  These skin reactions, including skin irritation, may also be induced by exogenous stress, of chemical origin, for example, xenobiotics, antigens, allergens, chemicals, compounds likely to cause irritation of the skin, peeling environmental origin (temperature, climate, UV radiation, air pollution, especially heavy metals, ozone, cigarette smoke ...) or mechanical origin (friction, shaving) and any stress of endogenous origin such as disorders involving inflammatory and / or hormonal mechanism affecting the skin, mucous membrane, scalp and / or hair. For example, physiological endogenous stress may be related to the abnormal production of proinflammatory mediators (neuromediators, cytokines, chemokines).

  Skin irritation involves a cascade of reactions that, through the recruitment of infiltrating blood cells (neutrophils, macrophages, ...) and the substances they release (cytokines, lymphokines, chemokines ...), give rise to persistent irritant process that is characterized mainly by skin irritation or involution of the hair bulb and its matrix environment when located on the scalp.

  Topical compounds whose use can, in special circumstances such as reactive skin, skin affected with rosacea, high concentrations of said compounds, lead to the appearance of cutaneous reactions, are used in cosmetic or dermatological compositions, of course for other effects. Thus, cosmetic compositions containing, for example, keratolytic and / or desquamating active agents for combating aging, and in particular exfoliating active agents and / or cell renewal promoting agents, such as α-hydroxy acids (in particular acidic acids), are used. lactic, glycolic, citric), 13-hydroxy-acids (in particular n-octanoyl-5-salicylic acid) or even retinoids (especially retinoic acid all trans or 13-cis, retinol, adapalene) ... If these assets are used in too large quantities, they can cause skin irritation. The use of these compounds, especially for users with irritable skin and / or scalp, must therefore be limited.

  In addition, even certain compounds which are considered inert in a cosmetic or dermatological composition, such as, for example, preservatives, surfactants, perfumes, solvents or propellants, may be irritating when applied to keratin materials and in particular the skin, including the scalp, especially in subjects with irritable skin and / or allergic skin, this irritating nature depending on the compound used and the sensitivity of the skin and skin flora resident of the user. Compounds likely to cause skin irritation are generally used in low doses. The low-level use of these compounds may then prove to be of little advantage over the use of other less active compounds, but less or not irritating and therefore used in greater quantity, or with respect to the purpose of the compound. such as, for example, the stability of the composition when it comes to emulsifiers or the good preservation of the composition when it comes to preservatives. It is also known that certain cutaneous disorders include an inflammatory component, of which inflammatory erythema, psoriasis, cutaneous atopy, atopic dermatitis, allergic reactions of immediate hypersensitivity type, such as urticaria, allergic reactions of delayed hypersensitivity type, such as contact dermatitis, eczema; seborrheic dermatitis, acne, inflammatory hyperpigmentations, some pelades, for which it is necessary to develop treatments

  There is therefore a need to find soothing compounds capable in particular of preventing and / or reducing the irritant effect of cosmetic or dermatological compositions containing one or more compounds which may cause irritation of the skin, and more generally, of to prevent and / or treat skin disorders comprising an inflammatory component, in particular skin irritation.

  The Applicant has surprisingly found that the copolymer of styrene monomer and dicarboxylic acid ethylenically unsaturated demonstrates soothing properties that justify including its interest in incorporating it into compositions comprising at least one compound capable of causing irritation skin.

  The copolymer of styrene monomer and of dicarboxylic acid has already been described for stabilizing vitamin C (EP 1 374 852), the copolymeric complex of styrene monomer and of dicarboxylic acid and vitamin C thus formed can be used as a depigmenting agent (EP 1 374 849), to treat the signs of intrinsic aging (EP 1 374 853), to promote the synthesis of ceramides and to improve the barrier function (EP 1 374 850) and to fight against the harmful effects of UV and / or pollution ( EP 1 374 851).

  However, none of these documents mention the soothing or anti-inflammatory properties of the styrene monomer and dicarboxylic acid copolymer.

  The invention relates to the non-therapeutic use of a copolymer of styrene monomer and ethylenically unsaturated dicarboxylic acid as a soothing agent and the non-therapeutic use of a composition comprising a copolymer of styrenic monomer and dicarboxylic acid. ethylenically unsaturated and free of vitamin C and its derivatives for preventing and / or treating skin discomfort reactions.

  The copolymer used according to the invention is a copolymer of styrene monomer and ethylenically unsaturated dicarboxylic acid diacid (indifferently known in the present description, copolymer, SMA copolymer or copolymer of styrene monomer and dicarboxylic acid).

  As styrene monomer, there may be mentioned styrene, alpha-methyl styrene, and preferably styrene.

  Ethylenically unsaturated dicarboxylic acid monomers that may be mentioned include maleic acid, itaconic acid, or their hydrolysed anhydride derivative after polymerization (in particular maleic anhydride or itaconic anhydride).

  Copolymers that are more particularly suitable for the implementation of the invention are copolymers obtained by copolymerization of one or more maleic or itaconic anhydride unit (s) followed by their hydrolysis. Maleic anhydride or itaconic acid anhydride units may be partially or fully hydrolysed.

  Said copolymer is preferably in salt form, especially in the form of alkaline salts, for example in the form of ammonium, sodium, potassium or lithium salts, and preferably in the form of sodium salt.

  In an advantageous aspect of the invention, the copolymer has a mole fraction in dicarboxylic acid unit with ethylenic unsaturation of between 0.1 and 0.9, preferably between 0.4 and 0.9, and more preferably between 0.4. and 0.6. Preferably said polymer has a solubility in water at 25 C greater than or equal to 2 g / l.

  The weight average molar mass of the styrene / ethylenically unsaturated dicarboxylic acid copolymer is preferably in the range from 1000 to 500,000 and preferably from 1000 to 50,000. Preferably, a copolymer of styrene and maleic acid (or hydrolyzed maleic anhydride), in particular in a styrene / maleic acid molar ratio ranging from 40/60 to 60/40, in particular equal to 50/50.

  It is possible to use, for example, styrene / maleic anhydride copolymer (50/50), hydrolysed in the form of 30% ammonium salt in water sold under the reference SMA1000H by the company CRAY VALLEY or the styrene / maleic anhydride copolymer. (50/50) hydrolysed in the form of 40% sodium salt in water sold under the reference SMA1000HNa by the company Cray Valley (and having the INCI name: sodium styrene / MA copolymer).

  For use according to the invention, the copolymer may be used in an amount sufficient to obtain the desired effect, that is to say in an amount sufficient to soothe the skin or to prevent irritation induced by a compound capable of inducing skin irritation. Preferably, the copolymer is present in a content ranging from 0.1 to 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition in which the polymer is formulated, more particularly in a content ranging from 0.1 to 20% by weight. weight, and preferably ranging from 0.1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

  The subject of the invention is also the non-therapeutic use of a copolymer of styrene monomer and of dicarboxylic acid to prevent and / or treat cutaneous reactions chosen from redness, itching, heating, burning, tingling sensations. and tugging. In particular, these cutaneous reactions target the skin of all or part of the body and / or the mucous and semi-mucous membranes (such as the lips) and / or the scalp.

  Whether for cosmetic or therapeutic purposes, the use according to the present invention is particularly intended for the treatment of skin and / or mucous membranes and / or irritable and / or allergic scalps.

  The invention also relates to the use of a copolymer of styrene monomer and of dicarboxylic acid for the preparation of a composition intended to prevent and / or treat cutaneous disorders related to skin irritation, for example encountered in patients with subjects with skin and / or mucous membranes and / or irritable and / or allergic scalp.

  Skin and / or mucous membranes and / or irritable scalp and / or allergic skin according to the invention means in particular skin and / or mucous membranes and / or scalp that react to external aggressions, sometimes exaggeratedly. These skins and / or mucous membranes and / or scalp are therefore more susceptible to the development of a cutaneous reaction that may manifest as redness, pruritus and / or involve immunological or inflammatory mechanisms, as opposed to a cutaneous reaction involving mechanisms of neurogenic origin characterizing sensitive skin.

  The invention also relates to the use of a copolymer of styrene monomer and dicarboxylic acid for the preparation of a composition for preventing and / or treating skin disorders comprising an inflammatory component, in particular skin irritation.

  Thus, the copolymer of styrenic monomer and of dicarboxylic acid is more particularly useful for combating cutaneous disorders comprising an inflammatory component selected from the scale, oedemas and / or pimples, inflammatory erythema; pruritus; psoriasis, cutaneous atopy, atopic dermatitis; urticaria; contact dermatitis, eczema; seborrheic dermatitis; acne; inflammatory hyperpigmentations, some pelades.

  The copolymer of styrene monomer and of dicarboxylic acid is advantageously intended to prevent and / or reduce the irritating effect of a cosmetic or dermatological composition containing one or more compounds capable of causing irritation.

  The copolymer of styrene monomer and of dicarboxylic acid according to the invention may be incorporated in the cosmetic or dermatological composition which contains a compound likely to cause irritation of the skin or, alternatively, be incorporated in a distinct soothing composition, which will be applied after and / or before the composition containing the compound likely to cause irritation of the following skin if it is desired to engage the inflammatory phase which may, for certain applications, be useful (vasodilatation, depilation etc ...) on the contrary avoid it .

  In the case of certain desquamating agents or peeling agents for example, it may in fact be advantageous to initially apply the composition containing said peeling agent intended to induce skin-friendly proinflammatory rearrangements (vasodilatation) to reshape the skin. 'epidermis. And secondly, applying a soothing composition containing a copolymer of styrenic monomer and dicarboxylic acid, said copolymer being intended to prevent acellular pro-inflammatory events from being relayed by a cell mobilization and chemoattraction step, which may lead to an acute inflammatory reaction and an undesirable phase of chronicity using immunological mechanisms that can be deleterious when they turn against the body.

  Thus, according to one variant of the invention, the styrenic monomer and dicarboxylic acid copolymer is incorporated in a separate composition intended to be applied after the cosmetic or dermatological composition containing at least one compound capable of causing irritation of the skin.

  According to another variant of the invention, the copolymer of styrene monomer and of dicarboxylic acid is incorporated in the cosmetic or dermatological composition containing at least one compound capable of causing irritation of the skin. According to this variant, the invention thus relates more particularly to also the use of a copolymer of styrene monomer and dicarboxylic acid for the preparation of a composition, characterized in that said copolymer is intended to prevent and / or reduce the irritating effect of one or more compounds likely to cause irritation of the skin present in said composition.

  The invention further relates to a composition for topical application to the skin and / or the mucous membranes and / or the scalp comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium: at least one cosmetic or pharmaceutical compound capable of causing irritation of the skin; skin, with the exception of ascorbic acid and its derivatives, and - at least one copolymer of styrene monomer and dicarboxylic acid.

  The cosmetic or pharmaceutical compound capable of causing skin irritation is chosen from dermatological compounds or active agents, surfactants, in particular anionic surfactants, preservatives, detergents, perfumes and especially perfuming alcoholic solutions (perfumes, eau de toilette, aftershave). , deodorants), solvents, propellants and mixtures thereof.

  More particularly, as dermatological or cosmetic active agents, mention may be made of certain desquamating agents which may also be peeling agents. Among the agents specifically for peeling, mention may be made of abrasive / exfoliating particles of mineral, organic, natural or synthetic sources. Mention may be made more particularly of particles of pumice stone, silica, polyethylene balls, nylon and powders of fruit cores. Among these desquamating agents, the following are likely to cause irritation of the skin: saturated monocarboxylic acids (acetic acid) and unsaturated, saturated and unsaturated dicarboxylic acids; saturated and unsaturated tricarboxylic acids; α-hydroxy acids and 13-hydroxy acids; monocarboxylic acids; the α-hydroxy acids and 13-hydroxy acids of the dicarboxylic acids; the α-hydroxy acids and 13-hydroxy acids of tricarboxylic acids; ketoacids; α-ketoacids, 13-ketoacids of polycarboxylic acids, polyhydroxy monocarboxylic acids, polyhydroxybicarboxylic acids and polyhydroxy tricarboxylic acids. Particularly among the α-hydroxy acids or their esters, mention may be made of: glycolic acids, dioecious acids such as octadecene dioic acid or Arlatone dioc DCA sold by Uniqema, citric, lactic, tartaric, malic or mandelic, their esters such as tartrate of dialkyl (C12 / C13) or Cosmacol ETI, the citrate of branched C12-13 tri-alcohols or Cosmacol ECI sold by the company SASOL. Among the 13-hydroxy acids, there may be mentioned: salicylic acid and its derivatives (including noctanoyl 5-salicylic acid). Other desquamating agents that may be mentioned include: pyruvic acid, gluconic acid, glucuronic acid, oxalic acid, malonic acid, succinic acid, acetic acid, gentisic acid, cinnamic acid, azelaic acid; phenol; resorcinol; urea and its derivatives, hydroxyethyl urea or hydrovance from NATIONAL STARCH; oligofucoses; jasmonic acid and its derivatives; ascorbic acid and its derivatives, trichloroacetic acid; the extract of Sophora japonica and resveratrol.

  Among desquamating agents, those capable of acting on the enzymes involved in the desquamation or degradation of corneodesmosomes may also be capable of causing skin irritation. Among these, mention may in particular be made of chelating agents for mineral salts such as EDTA; N-acyl-N, N ', N'-ethylene diaminetriacetic acid; aminosulfonic compounds and, in particular, (N-2-hydroxyethylpiperazine-N-2-ethane) sulfonic acid (HEPES); 2-oxothiazolidine-4-carboxylic acid derivatives (procysteine); glycine-type alpha amino acid derivatives (as described in EP 0 852 949, as well as sodium methyl glycine diacetate marketed by BASF under the trade name TRILON M); honey ; sugar derivatives such as O-octanoyl-6-D-maltose, O-linoleyl-6-D-glucose and N-acetyl glucosamine.

  Retinoids are also compounds that can cause skin irritation. For example, retinol and its esters, retinal, retinoic acid and its derivatives such as those described in documents FR-A-2,570,377, EPA-199,636 and EP-A-325,540 may be mentioned among them, EP-A-402072, and adapalene. Salts and derivatives, such as cis or trans forms, racemic mixtures, dextrorotatory or levogenic forms of the compounds mentioned above are also considered as compounds capable of causing irritation of the skin.

  Other dermatological or cosmetic active agents that may cause irritation of the skin are also mentioned below: certain vitamins such as vitamin D and its derivatives such as vitamin D3, vitamin D2, calcitriol, calcipotriol, tacalcitol, 24,25-diOH vitamin D3, 1-OH vitamin D2 and 1,24-diOH vitamin D2; vitamin B9 and its derivatives, - peroxides such as benzoyl peroxide, hydrogen peroxide, - anti-hair loss such as minoxidil and its derivatives such as aminexyl, - dyes and hair dyes such as aminophenols and their derivatives such as para-phenylene diamine (p-PDA), N-phenyl p-PDA, toluene 2,5-diamine sulfate, meta-phenylene diamine (m-PDA), toluene 3,4-diamine and ortho-phenylene diamine (o-PDA), antiperspirants such as aluminum salts, such as aluminum hydroxychloride, deodorants, depilatory and / or permanent active agents such as thioglycolates , ammonia, phenoxyethanol, 1,2-pentanediol, anthralins (dioxanthranol), anthranoids (for example those described in EP-A-319028), lithium salts, depigmenting agents (eg hydroquinone, vitamin C at high concentration, kojic acid), - certain slimming active ingredients with heating effect, - the nicotinates and their derivatives, - capsaicin, - anti-leprosy active ingredients (pyrethrin), - antiproliferative agents such as 5-fluoro uracil or methotrexate, - antiviral agents, - antiparasitic agents, - antifungal agents, - antipruritic agents, - anti-inflammatory agents, antiseborrhoeic agents, certain sunscreens, propigmentants such as psoralenes and methylangecilines, and their mixtures. As preservatives, mention may be made of phenoxyethanol, chorehexidine and benzalkonium chloride.

  As surfactants, mention may be made of anionic, cationic and amphoteric surfactants, more particularly anionic surfactants such as alkyl sulphates and alkyl ether sulphates, for example lauryl sulphate and lauryl ether sulphate, and their salts, especially sodium salts.

  According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the compound capable of causing irritation of the skin is chosen from α-hydroxy acids, in particular glycolic acid, citric acid, lactic acid, tartaric acid; 13-hydroxyacids, in particular salicylic acid and its derivatives, n-octanoyl-5-salicylic acid; retinoids, in particular retinol, retinoic acid or adapalene; phenols, in particular resorcinol and derivatives such as lucinol; resorcinol; urea and its derivatives; Trichloroacetic acid; peroxides such as benzoyl peroxide; antiperspirant active agents such as aluminum salts; depilatory and / or permanent active agents, in particular thioglycolates; preservatives, in particular phenoxyethanol.

  The compound capable of causing skin irritation may be present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount sufficient to cause a skin irritation reaction. By way of example, it may be present in a content ranging from 0.0001% to 70% by weight, preferably from 0.01% to 50% by weight and better still from 0.1% to 30% by weight relative to the weight. total of the composition.

  The use of a copolymer of styrenic monomer and dicarboxylic acid therefore has the advantage of eliminating skin irritation that could have caused irritating side-effect compounds, and also making it possible to increase the amount of said compounds. in cosmetic or dermatological compositions with respect to the quantity normally used, with a view to improving their efficiency.

  Thus, it is possible to use, including compositions for skin and / or mucous membranes and / or irritable and / or allergic scalps, agents which may cause irritation of the skin, such as cosmetic active agents (ex: agent keratolytic and / or desquamating), dermatological active agents (eg retinoids), certain surfactants, preservatives, perfumes, solvents, propellants, and mixtures thereof, provided that said compositions comprise at least one copolymer of styrene monomer and of dicarboxylic acid.

  The invention also relates to a composition for topical application to the skin and / or the mucous membranes and / or the scalp comprising in a physiologically acceptable medium at least one anti-inflammatory and / or soothing compound, preferably in a concentration ranging from from 0.00001 to 95% by weight and at least one copolymer of styrene monomer and dicarboxylic acid.

  The copolymer of styrenic monomer and dicarboxylic acid used according to the invention can therefore be associated with at least 0.00001% to 95% by weight of an anti-inflammatory agent, another soothing agent or their mixture.

  Examples of anti-inflammatory agents include: an inflammatory cytokine antagonist; a steroidal anti-inflammatory drug (hydrocortisone, betamethasone, dexamethasone, etc.); a nonsteroidal anti-inflammatory drug such as aspirin or paracetamol; and their mixtures.

  By inflammatory cytokine antagonists according to the invention is meant a compound capable of inhibiting the synthesis and / or the release of one or more inflammatory cytokines. Also included in the definition of an inflammatory cytokine antagonist are compounds that inhibit or block the binding of these cytokines to their receptor (s). For example, IL-1, IL-8, TNFα and TNFI3 antagonists, the Lys-Pro-Val tripeptide (KPV), and all related aMSH and peptidometic derivatives may be mentioned. characterized by an activity of aMSH type by binding to the receptor or by controlling the release of IL1, IL8 or TNFa, all cytokine release inhibitors (therapeutic class of CSAIDs for: anti-inflammatory suppressor cytokine drugs), the family of the substituted pyrimidine N-Oxide (EP99401719.2 (priority FR9809509) and EP 99402771.2 (priority FR9814211) lipoxin inducers A4, the extracts of algae capable of modulating the production of cytokines by keratinocytes such as Phycosaccharide Al (Anti-inflammatory) marketed by the company CODIF, hydroglycolic extract of the seaweed Laminaria saccharina, in particular Phlorogine, marketed by BIOTECH MARINE, extracts of Alpe vera or Gingko biloba; aturel with IL-1 (IL-1RA) and the extract of barks and roots of termina / sericea or SERICOSIDE 3058500 marketed by the company INDENA.

  The anti-inflammatory agents are preferably present in the compositions in accordance with the invention at a concentration which may vary between 0.00001 and 10% by weight approximately relative to the total weight of the composition. Even more preferably, the concentration of anti-inflammatory compound may vary between 0.0005% and 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

  As examples of soothing agents that can be used in the compositions of the invention, mention may be made of: • allantoin; Beta-glycyrrhetinic acid, the extracts containing them, for example Glycyrrhiza Glabra extract (licorice) and the complexes containing them, such as the allantoin / glycyrrhetinic acid complex; • Planks, preferably, Vitreoscilla filiformis, lyophilized or not, their extracts, in particular, the lipopolysaccharide fraction and their complexes; • escin and plant extracts containing such as turkey chestnut extract; Xanthine derivatives such as diethylaminoethyl theophylline hydrochloride; • waters and extracts (eg aqueous, hydroalcoholic or hydroglycolic) of flowers and plants, such as blueberry water, chamomile water, Hamamelis flower water, extracts or mint water , linden water, extracts or rose water, Rosaceae extracts (ex: Rosa gallica), peony extracts, hawthorn extracts, yarrow extracts, mauve extracts, marigold extracts, melilot extracts, sage extracts, elderberry water, ginkgo biloba extracts, arnica extracts, oregano extracts, green tea extracts, water lily, Iris extracts, birch bark extracts, Aloe vera extracts; • Asian acid and plant extracts containing it such as Centella Asiatica; • bisabolol; • fruit extracts, such as pineapple extract, papaya extract; guava; Algae, in particular of the Laminaria type (for example red or brown) and the brown algae extract Padina Pavonica as HPS 3 PADINA PAVONICA marketed by the company Alban Muller; Pyrrolidone carboxylates and in particular zinc (Zn-PCA) or copper (Cu-PCA); • vegetable oils, such as canola seed oil and shea oil; • essential oils, for example coriander, lemon balm, lavender, mint, chamomile and their mixtures; • acexamic acid and tranexamic acid (trans-4, aminomethylcyclohexane carboxylic acid); • Ursolic acid and extracts containing it such as rosemary leaf extract; Fucose-containing polysaccharides, such as FUCOGEL 1000, sold by Solabia (aqueous solution comprising 1% of polysaccharide solids comprising fucose, galactose and galacturonic acid); Electrolytes and in particular an aqueous mixture comprising from 30 to 35% of magnesium chloride, from 20 to 28% of potassium chloride, from 3 to 10% of sodium chloride, from 0.2 to 1% of chloride of calcium, from 0.1 to 0.6% of magnesium bromide and from 0.1 to 0.5% of insolubles, the so-called mixture being here called a mixture of Dead Sea Bath Salts. corresponds to the main salts contained in the Dead Sea; • galactolipids for example from oats, such as for example digalactosyl diglyceride or monogalactosyl diglyceride; Amino acids, their derivatives and their salts, such as the sodium salt of amino acids grafted onto cocoyl chains, marketed in the form of a mixture under the name SEPICALM S by the company SEPPIC, capryloylglycine sold under the name LIPACIDE C8G by the company SEPPIC and the mixture of capryloylglycine, cinnamon and sarcosine sold under the name SEPICONTROL A5 by the company SEPPIC; TNF-alpha antagonists such as lisophylline, A802715, sulfasalazine, CDP-571 (anti-TNF-alpha antibody), MDL-201112; Substance P antagonists such as sendide, spantide II, and the peptides described in patent application EP-A-680749, the extracts of filamentous bacteria described in application EP-A-761204, or plant extracts with antagonistic activity. substance P (Rosa gallica); • CGRP antagonists, such as CGRP 8-37, anti-CGRP antibodies, or plant extracts with CGRP antagonist activity (ex: Iris pallida). The divalent salts of strontium, zinc, manganese, magnesium and calcium, such as those described in documents WO-A-96/19184, WO-A-96/19182 and WO-A-96/19228; Derivatives of C-glycosides as described in EP 1 345 919, preferably C-13-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxy-propane; • extracts from plants such as Boeswellia serrata (Soothex from OUEST), gentian (Inflan-AT from TECHNOBLE), peony (Botampi from ICHIMARU PHARCOS), buds from Caprier (Dermasensitive Gatuline from GATTEFOSSE); • Mushroom extracts (Ganoderma de MARUZEN): and their mixtures.

  The subject of the invention is also a cosmetic process for the non-therapeutic care of the skin, the hair and / or the scalp, in particular for soothing the skin, the mucous membranes and semi-mucous membranes and the irritable and / or allergic scalp. , characterized in that it comprises at least one step of applying to the skin, the hair and / or the scalp a cosmetic composition according to the present invention.

  The composition of the invention may be a cosmetic or dermatological composition.

  The composition according to the invention comprises a physiologically acceptable medium, that is to say a medium compatible with all keratin materials such as the skin, the scalp, the nails, the mucous membranes, the eyes and the hair or any other skin area of the body. This composition may be a cosmetic or dermatological composition and may therefore comprise a cosmetically or pharmaceutically acceptable medium.

  A composition according to the invention may comprise a copolymer of styrene monomer and of dicarboxylic acid in a proportion of about 0.0001 to about 25% by weight of active material relative to the total weight of the composition, and in particular of about 0.001 at about 10% by weight of active material, and more particularly from about 0.05 to about 5% by weight of active material of styrene monomer and dicarboxylic acid copolymer relative to the total weight of the composition.

  The composition of the invention may thus constitute a composition for treating or caring for the skin (including the scalp), keratin fibers (hair, eyelashes, eyebrows), nails or lips, or a sunscreen composition. or an artificial tan, or a cleaning or makeup remover of the skin, hair, eyebrows or eyelashes, a deodorant product or a perfume compound. It is then generally not colored or weakly colored, and it may optionally contain cosmetic or dermatological active ingredients. It can then be used as a skin or lip care base (lip balms, protecting the lips from cold and / or sun and / or wind) as a day or night care cream for the skin of the skin. face and / or body. It may, in addition, be in the form of shampoo treatment or not, dye or not, and compound after shampooing. The composition according to the invention may also constitute a colored cosmetic composition and in particular a makeup composition for the skin, keratin fibers (hair or eyelashes) and / or mucous membranes, in particular a foundation, a blush, a blush cheeks or eyelids, a mascara, an eyeliner, a concealer compound in a stick, a nail polish, a lipstick or a lip gloss, possibly with care or treatment properties, a body tattoo. Thus, another subject of the invention is the cosmetic use of the composition as defined above, for the care, the treatment, the cleaning and / or the makeup of keratin materials (skin, including the scalp, fibers). keratinous and mucous membranes).

  The composition according to the invention may be in the galenical forms conventionally used for topical application and in particular in the form of lotion or serum-type dispersions, emulsions of liquid or semi-liquid consistency of the milk type, obtained by dispersion of a fatty phase in an aqueous phase (O / W) or conversely (W / O), or suspensions or emulsions of soft, semi-solid or solid consistency of the cream or gel type, or multiple emulsions (W / O) / E or H / E / H), microemulsions, nanoemulsions, vesicular dispersions of ionic and / or nonionic type, or wax / aqueous phase dispersions. These compositions are prepared according to the usual methods. It may also be in the form of a transdermal system allowing active or passive release of the active (s) by transdermy, for example patch or gel patch (hydrogel). When the composition is in emulsion form, the proportion of the oily phase of the emulsion may range, for example, from 5% to 80% by weight, and preferably from 5% to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. . The oils, the emulsifiers and the co-emulsifiers used in the composition in emulsion form are chosen from those conventionally used in the cosmetic or dermatological field. The emulsifier and the coemulsifier are generally present in the composition, in a proportion ranging from 0.3 to 30% by weight, and preferably from 0.5 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The emulsion may further contain lipid vesicles.

  The following examples are present by way of illustration and not limitation of the field of the invention.

  EXAMPLE 1 Evaluation of the Anti-Inflammatory Effect of the Styrene Monomer and Dicarboxylic Acid Copolymer The copolymer of styrene monomer and of dicarboxylic acid used in the example is manufactured by the company CRAY VALLEY under the trade name SMA 100 HNa. It is in the form of a 40% by weight aqueous solution of styrene / maleic acid copolymer neutralized with sodium hydroxide, its molecular weight is 194 g / mol.

  The test consists in evaluating the effect of the copolymer of styrene monomer and of dicarboxylic acid on the inhibition of the response of keratinocytes NCTC 2544 and monocytes (HL60 cells) to a proinflammatory agent: phorbol myristate acetate (PMA) at 0, 1 μg / ml for keratinocytes or calcium ionophore A23187 at 10 μM for HL60 cells, by cytokine assay (IL8, PGE2 for keratinocytes and LTB4 for HL60 cells). Principle and purpose of the study: This study uses the test developed by Wilmer [Wilmer, J.L. et al., J. invest. Dermatol., 102: 915-922 (1994)]. This test makes it possible to evaluate the anti-inflammatory potential of various molecules, on a human keratinocyte cell line (NHEK NCTC 2544) and HL60 cells. In this test, an inflammatory situation is mimicked by inducing the production of cytokines by the addition of pro-inflammatory compounds in the culture medium. The anti-irritant effect of the SMA copolymer is then measured by its inhibitory action with respect to this exacerbated production. Experimental Conditions: Normal human epidermal keratinocytes are incubated in the presence of Phorbol 12-myristate 13-acetate at 0.1 g / ml, the HL60 monocytes are then incubated in the presence of the calcium ionophore A23187 at 10 M for 24 hours. at 37 C.

  In response to the pro-inflammatory agent, the production of cytokine is measured by: - IL8: the enzymatic determination is carried out by means of a kit of assay (kit Elisa Diaclone 851.530.010) - PGE2: the enzymatic assay is carried out by means of a dosing kit (kit Elisa R & D Systems KGE004) LTB4: the enzymatic determination is carried out by means of a kit of assay (kit Elisa R & D Systems KGE006) The absorbance values are measured with a microplate reader ( MRX / Dynatech) according to the procedures provided with the dosing kit. To evaluate the anti-irritant protective effect of said copolymer, the production of the chemotactic labels Interleukin 8 (IL-8) and prostaglandin E2 (PGE2) by human keratinocytes and the leukotriene marker B4 (LTB4) by human monocytes HL60, is measured. in the presence of different concentrations of copolymer. A control test is also carried out with dexamethasone (10 -5 M), indomethacin (10-6 M) or AA861 (1 and 0.2 μM) which are soothing agents of reference.

  The results are expressed as a percentage of the control values after subtraction of the background noise and as a percentage inhibition of these values obtained in the presence of the compounds. IL8 PGE2 LTB4 Control (100 100 100 cells grown with the pro-inflammatory agent) Control (cells 1 not detectable 0 grown without treatment) Soothing agent of 30 Not detectable Not detectable reference (dexamethasone) (indomethacin) (AA861 at 1 μM 12 (AA861 at 0.2 μM) 2% SMA polymer 40 Not detectable * 40 0.2% SMA Polymer 64 37 * the detection limit of the kit used is 0.0134 mg / ml

  These results clearly show that the copolymer of styrenic monomer and of dicarboxylic acid decreases the inflammatory reaction induced by pro-inflammatory agents, thus demonstrating its soothing properties.

Example 2 - compositions

  For these examples of compositions, the preservative may be chosen from phenoxyethanol, chlorhexidine and benzalkonium chloride.

10 19 Cream Cetearyl glucoside cetearyl alcohol 1.5% Glyceryl stearate 1% Sodium cetearyl sulfate 0.3% Squalene 1% Dicaprylyl carbonate 2% Dicaprylyl ether 2% Dimethicaone 1% Sodium polycrylate 1% Preservative 0.7% Copolymer SMA 4% Water qs 100% Milk Acrylates / C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer 0.7% Triethanolamine 0.7% Isononyl isononanoate 10% Cetyl alcohol 0.2% Preservative 0.7% Glycerin 3% Copolymer SMA 4% Water qs 100% Lotion Glycerine 3% Copolymer SMA 4% Preservative 0.7% Hamamelis flower water qs 100%

Claims (38)

  1. Non-therapeutic use of a copolymer of styrene monomer and ethylenically unsaturated dicarboxylic acid as a soothing agent.   2. Non-therapeutic use of a composition comprising a copolymer of styrenic monomer and ethylenically unsaturated dicarboxylic acid and free of vitamin C and its derivatives for preventing and / or treating cutaneous reactions of discomfort.   3. Use according to claim 1 or 2, for preventing and / or treating cutaneous reactions chosen from redness, itching, heating, burning, stinging and tugging. 15   4. Use according to any one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that said skin reactions are directed at the skin and / or mucous and semi-mucous membranes and / or scalp.   5. Use of a copolymer of styrene monomer and ethylenically unsaturated dicarboxylic acid for the preparation of a composition for preventing and / or treating skin disorders comprising an inflammatory component.   6. Use according to any one of claim 5, characterized in that said composition is intended for skin irritation. 25   7. Use according to claim 5, characterized in that the cutaneous disorders are selected from the scale, oedemas and / or pimples, inflammatory erythema; pruritus; psoriasis, cutaneous atopy, atopic dermatitis; urticaria; contact dermatitis, eczema; seborrheic dermatitis; acne; inflammatory hyperpigmentation; some pelt.   8. Use according to claim 5, characterized in that the composition is intended to prevent and / or reduce the irritating effect of a cosmetic or dermatological composition containing one or more compounds capable of causing irritation of the skin. 10 35   9. Use according to claim 8, characterized in that said copolymer of styrenic monomer and ethylenically unsaturated dicarboxylic acid is incorporated in a separate composition intended to be applied after said cosmetic or dermatological composition containing at least one compound capable of causing irritation. skin.   10. Use according to claim 8, characterized in that said copolymer of styrenic monomer and ethylenically unsaturated dicarboxylic acid is incorporated in said cosmetic or dermatological composition containing at least one compound likely to cause irritation of the skin.   11. Use according to any one of claims 8 to 10, characterized in that said compound capable of causing irritation of the skin is selected from cosmetic active agents, dermatological active agents, surfactants, perfumes and alcoholic perfuming solutions, solvents, propellants, preservatives, detergents and mixtures thereof.   12. Use according to claim 11, characterized in that said compound capable of causing irritation of the skin is a cosmetic or dermatological active agent selected from desquamating agents and peeling agents; retinoids; urea and these derivatives; vitamin D and its derivatives; peroxides; fall arrest; dyes and hair dyes; antiperspirants; deodorants; depilatory and / or permanent active ingredients; phenoxyethanol; 1,2-pentanediol; anthralins; anthranoids; lithium salts; depigmenting agents; slimming active agents with heating effect; nicotinates and their derivatives; capsaicin; anti-lice assets; antiproliferatives; antiviral agents; antiparasitic agents; antifungals; antipruritic; antiseborrhoeic; solar filters; propigmentants and their mixtures.   13. Use according to claim 12, characterized in that the desquamating agents and peeling agents are selected from abrasive / exfoliant particles of mineral, organic, natural or synthetic sources; saturated and unsaturated monocarboxylic acids, saturated and unsaturated dicarboxylic acids; saturated and unsaturated tricarboxylic acids; the α-hydroxy acids and 13-hydroxy acids of the monocarboxylic acids; the α-hydroxy acids and 13-hydroxy acids of the dicarboxylic acids; the α-hydroxy acids and 13-hydroxy acids of tricarboxylic acids; ketoacids; α-ketoacids, 13-ketoacids of polycarboxylic acids, polyhydroxy monocarboxylic acids, polyhydroxybicarboxylic acids and polyhydroxy tricarboxylic acids; pyruvic acid, gluconic acid, glucuronic acid, oxalic acid, malonic acid, succinic acid, acetic acid, gentisic acid, cinnamic acid, azelaic acid; phenol; resorcinol; urea and its derivatives, hydroxyethyl urea; oligofucoses; jasmonic acid and its derivatives; trichloroacetic acid; extract of Sophora japonica and resveratrol; desquamating agents capable of acting on the enzymes involved in the desquamation or the degradation of corneodesmosomes may also be capable of causing irritation of the skin chosen from the chelating agents of mineral salts such as EDTA; N-acyl-N, N ', N'-ethylene diaminetriacetic acid; aminosulfonic compounds and in particular (N-2-hydroxyethylpiperazine-N-2-ethane) sulfonic acid (HEPES); 2-oxothiazolidine-4-carboxylic acid derivatives (procysteine); alpha-amino acid derivatives of glycine type and sodium methyl glycine diacetate; honey ; sugar derivatives such as O-octanoyl-6-D-maltose, O-linoleyl-6-D-glucose and N-acetyl glucosamine.   14. Use according to claim 12, characterized in that the compound capable of causing irritation of the skin is selected from glycolic acid, citric acid, lactic acid, tartaric acid, n-acid and the like. 5-salicylic octanoyl, retinol, retinoic acid, adapalene, resorcinol, lucinol, resorcinol, urea and its derivatives, trichloroacetic acid, benzoyl peroxide, aluminum salts, thioglycolates, phenoxyethanol.   15. Use according to any one of claims 8 to 14, characterized in that said compound may cause irritation of the skin is present in a content ranging from 0.0001 to 70% by weight and preferably from 0.01 to at 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.   16. Use according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the styrenic monomer is selected from styrene and alpha-methyl styrene.   17. Use according to claim 16, characterized in that the styrenic monomer is styrene.   18. Use according to claim 16 or 17, characterized in that the ethylenically unsaturated dicarboxylic acid is selected from maleic acid, itaconic acid, or hydrolysed anhydride derivative after polymerization.   19. Use according to any one of claims 6 to 18, characterized in that the ethylenically unsaturated dicarboxylic acid is selected from maleic acid, or hydrolysed anhydride derivative after polymerization.   20. Use according to any one of claims 16 to 19, characterized in that said copolymer is in salt form.   21. Use according to claim 20, characterized in that said copolymer is in salt form selected from ammonium, sodium, potassium, lithium, and preferably in the form of sodium salt.   22. Use according to any one of claims 16 to 21, characterized in that said copolymer has a mole fraction in ethylenically unsaturated dicarboxylic acid unit of between 0.1 and 0.9, and preferably between 0.4 and 0.9. 20   23. Use according to any one of claims 16 to 22, characterized in that said copolymer has a weight average molecular weight of between 1000 and 500 000, and preferably between 1000 and 50 000.   24. Use according to any one of claims 16 to 23, characterized in that said copolymer has a solubility in water at 25 C greater than or equal to 2 g / l.   25. Use according to any one of claims 16 to 24, characterized in that said copolymer is a copolymer of styrene and maleic acid. 30   26. Use according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that said copolymer of styrene monomer and ethylenically unsaturated dicarboxylic acid is present in a content ranging from 0.1 to 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition in which the polymer is formulated, more particularly in a content ranging from 0.1 to 20% by weight, and preferably ranging from 0.1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.   27. Use according to any one of the preceding claims characterized in that said copolymer of styrene monomer and ethylenically unsaturated dicarboxylic acid is associated with at least one anti-inflammatory agent, a soothing agent or a mixture thereof.   28. A composition for topical application to the skin and / or the mucous membranes and / or the scalp comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, a copolymer of styrene monomer and of ethylenically unsaturated dicarboxylic acid and at least one cosmetic or pharmaceutical compound capable of cause skin irritation with the exception of ascorbic acid and its derivatives.   29. A composition according to claim 28, characterized in that the compound capable of causing irritation of the skin is chosen from cosmetic active agents, dermatological active agents, surfactants, perfumes and alcoholic perfuming solutions, solvents, propellants, preservatives, detergents and their mixtures.   30. Composition according to claim 29, characterized in that said compound capable of causing irritation of the skin is a cosmetic or dermatological active agent chosen from the group consisting of desquamating agents and peeling agents; retinoids; urea and these derivatives; vitamin D and its derivatives; peroxides; fall arrest; dyes and hair dyes; antiperspirants; deodorants; depilatory and / or permanent active ingredients; phenoxyethanol; 1,2-pentanediol; anthralins; anthranoids; lithium salts; depigmenting agents; slimming active agents with heating effect; nicotinates and their derivatives; capsaicin; anti-lice assets; antiproliferatives; antiviral agents; antiparasitic agents; antifungals; antipruritic; antiseborrhoeic; solar filters; propigmentants and their mixtures.   31. Composition according to claim 30, characterized in that the desquamating agents and the peeling agents are chosen from abrasive / exfoliating particles of mineral, organic, natural or synthetic sources; saturated and unsaturated monocarboxylic acids, saturated and unsaturated dicarboxylic acids; saturated and unsaturated tricarboxylic acids; α-hydroxy acids and 13-hydroxy acids; monocarboxylic acids; the α-hydroxy acids and 13-hydroxy acids of the dicarboxylic acids; the α-hydroxy acids and 13-hydroxy acids of tricarboxylic acids; 13-keto acids of polycarboxylic acids, polyhydroxy monocarboxylic acids, polyhydroxybicarboxylic acids and polyhydroxy tricarboxylic acids; pyruvic acid, gluconic acid, glucuronic acid, oxalic acid, malonic acid, succinic acid, acetic acid, gentisic acid, cinnamic acid, azelaic acid; phenol; resorcinol; urea and its derivatives, hydroxyethyl urea; oligofucoses; jasmonic acid and its derivatives; trichloroacetic acid; extract of Sophora japonica and resveratrol; desquamating agents capable of acting on the enzymes involved in the desquamation or the degradation of corneodesmosomes may also be capable of causing irritation of the skin chosen from the chelating agents of mineral salts such as EDTA; N-acyl-N, N ', N'-ethylene diaminetriacetic acid; aminosulfonic compounds and in particular (N-2-hydroxyethylpiperazine-N-2-ethane) sulfonic acid (HEPES); 2-oxothiazolidine-4-carboxylic acid derivatives (procysteine); alpha-amino acid derivatives of glycine type and sodium methyl glycine diacetate; honey ; sugar derivatives such as O-octanoyl-6-D-maltose, O-linoleyl-6-D-glucose and N-acetyl glucosamine.   32. A composition according to claim 29, characterized in that the compound likely to cause irritation of the skin is selected from glycolic acid, citric acid, lactic acid, tartaric acid, n-acid and the like. 5-salicylic octanoyl, retinol, retinoic acid, adapalene, resorcinol, lucinol, resorcinol, urea and its derivatives, trichloroacetic acid, benzoyl peroxide, aluminum salts, thioglycolates, phenoxyethanol.   33. Composition according to any one of claims 28 to 32, characterized in that the copolymer of styrene monomer and ethylenically unsaturated dicarboxylic acid is present in a content ranging from 0.1 to 40% by weight, relative to the weight total of the composition in which the polymer is formulated, more particularly in a content ranging from 0.1 to 20% by weight, and preferably ranging from 0.1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.   34. Composition according to any one of claims 28 to 33, characterized in that the amount of said compound capable of causing irritation of the skin is present in a content ranging from 0.0001 to 70% by weight and preferably from 0, 01 to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.   35. Composition according to any one of claims 28 to 34, characterized in that it further comprises at least one anti-inflammatory agent, a soothing agent or their mixture.   36. Composition according to claim 35, characterized in that the anti-inflammatory and / or soothing compound is chosen from algae extracts capable of modulating the production of cytokines by keratinocytes; extracts of Aloe vera; bark extract and roots of termina / sericea; allantoin; beta-glycyrrhetinic acid and extracts and complexes containing them; plankton; escin; xanthine derivatives; water and extracts of flowers and plants; Asian acid bisabolol; fruit extracts; vegetable oils; essential oils ; algae of the Laminaria type; acexamic acid and tranexamic acid; ursolic acid and extracts containing it; polysaccharides containing fucose; aqueous mixtures of electrolytes; galactolipids; amino acids and divalent salts of strontium, zinc, manganese, magnesium and calcium; substance P antagonists; CGRP antagonists; C-glycoside derivatives.   37. Cosmetic process for the non-therapeutic care of the skin, the hair and / or the scalp, characterized in that it comprises at least one step consisting in applying to the skin, the hair and / or the scalp a composition cosmetic as defined in any one of claims 28 to 36.   38. Cosmetic method according to claim 37, characterized in that the composition is applied to irritable and / or allergic skin, mucosa and / or a scalp.