FR2949058A1 - Cosmetic article useful for removing cosmetics from e.g. skin, contains water-insoluble substrate having layers, and oil-in-water emulsion-type composition comprising thickening polymer of monomer having sulfo group, and inulin - Google Patents

Abstract

A cosmetic article comprises water-insoluble substrate having one or more layers and an oil-in-water emulsion-type composition added or impregnated on substrate. The oil-in-water emulsion-type composition contains at least one thickening polymer chosen from copolymer obtained by polymerization of at least one monomer (m1) chosen from carboxylic acid-containing (alpha ),(beta )-ethylenically unsaturated compound or its ester with at least one ethylenically unsaturated monomer (m2) having hydrophobic group, and polymer comprising at least one monomer having sulfo group, and inulin. A cosmetic article comprises water-insoluble substrate having one or more layers and an oil-in-water emulsion-type composition added or impregnated on the substrate. The oil-in-water emulsion-type composition has oily phase dispersed in aqueous phase. The oil-in-water emulsion-type composition contains at least one thickening polymer chosen from copolymer obtained by polymerization of at least one monomer chosen from monomer (m1) of carboxylic acid-containing (alpha ),(beta )-ethylenically unsaturated compound or its ester with at least one ethylenically unsaturated monomer (m2) having hydrophobic group, and polymer comprising at least one monomer having sulfo group, and at least one inulin modified by hydrophobic chains. An independent claim is included for cosmetic composition, which is in the form of oil-in-water emulsion comprising oily phase dispersed in aqueous phase. The content of aqueous phase is 40 wt.% or more. The cosmetic composition further contains additional emulsifying agent (5 wt.% or less).

Description

The invention relates to a cosmetic article, more particularly a wipe, comprising at least one water-insoluble substrate, and to a cosmetic composition intended to be impregnated on said substrate.

The invention also relates to the uses of said article in the cosmetic or dermatological field, in particular for cleaning and / or removing make-up from the skin.

Cosmetic wipes generally consist of a substrate made of a material of natural or synthetic origin, which is preferably a non-woven fabric, but which may also be a foam or a fabric, said substrate being impregnated with a composition adapted to the purpose such as cleaning or removing makeup from the skin or eyes, or skin or hair care. Such wipes are commonly used because they are appreciated for their convenience because they are disposable and are impregnated with the necessary and sufficient amount of treatment or cleaning product. The use of these wipes avoids the handling and transport of vials containing the cosmetic compositions.

The impregnation of the substrates with the impregnating composition may be carried out according to different techniques such as spraying or dipping. However, these techniques can be used only if the impregnating compositions are sufficiently fluid and have a viscosity close to that of water. Indeed, it is not possible to properly wet the substrate when the compositions are too viscous, because, then, the substrate is improperly impregnated and, moreover, it is difficult to cut, fold and bag. In addition, the article obtained is unpleasant to use because the impregnating product remains on the surface of the substrate or does not impregnate homogeneously, so that certain areas of the article contain too much product, while others do not have enough or have too little.

Furthermore, the fluid compositions impregnating the wipes have the disadvantage of containing little oil and, therefore, to have a skin care effect or cleansing power, considered insufficient. In addition, the wipes obtained have a lack of comfort to the application.

Thus, there remains the need to have a composition which has a viscosity compatible with good impregnation a support and has an improved cleansing or cleaning efficiency (via the incorporation of a higher oil content), while being stable.

The Applicant has surprisingly found that an oil-in-water emulsion composition comprising a particular thickening polymer and an emulsifying agent which is an inulin modified with hydrophobic chains, can be homogeneously impregnated by conventional means on a surface. wipe or other substrate insoluble in water and allowed to obtain the above properties.

Thus, the subject of the present invention is a cosmetic article comprising: (A) a water-insoluble substrate, comprising one or more layers, and (B) a composition added or impregnated on the substrate, in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion comprising an oily phase dispersed in an aqueous phase, comprising: at least one thickening polymer resulting from the polymerization of at least one monomer (a) chosen from α, β-ethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acids or their esters, with a monomer ( b) ethylenically unsaturated having a hydrophobic group, and - at least one inulin modified with hydrophobic chains.

The term "cosmetic article" here means the assembly consisting of a water-insoluble support and a cosmetic composition impregnated on the support. This article may be in particular a wipe but it may also have any suitable shape as described below. The water insoluble substrate must be absorbent and strong enough not to break down during use.

The article according to the invention is moist to the touch. It has the advantage of being comfortable when applied to the skin, and to have a nourishing effect due to the presence of an oily phase. When it is used for cleaning or removing make-up from the skin, it is passed on the skin, possibly leaving it applied for a sufficient time so that the makeup products dissolve in the impregnating composition of the article, and then wipe the skin. You can also possibly rinse the skin. The article according to the invention is in particular a cosmetic article, suitable for the care and / or the treatment of the skin of the face, body or hands, and for cleaning or removing make-up from the skin of the face and / or or body. It can also be used for hair care, as well as for make-up removal.

The article of the invention may have any form appropriate to the desired purpose. It may constitute a wipe, but it may also be in the form of a glove, a mitt or any other form suitable for practical use on the face or body, for example in the form of a face with the holes for the locations of the eyes, the nose and / or the mouth, or in the form of a fingering remover for an application for removing make-up from the eyelashes, or in the form of a single or double-sided disc that can contain in particular two impregnated faces of different compositions. The article may also include a rough surface for exfoliation (exfoliation) of the skin.

The subject of the invention is also a cosmetic composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion comprising an oily phase dispersed in an aqueous phase, comprising: at least one thickening polymer resulting from the polymerization of at least one monomer (a) chosen from α, β-ethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acids or their esters, with an ethylenically unsaturated monomer (b) comprising a hydrophobic group, and - at least one inulin modified with hydrophobic chains, the aqueous phase being present in a content greater than or equal to 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition and said composition comprising less than 5% by weight of additional emulsifying agent relative to the total weight of the composition.

The invention also relates to the cosmetic use of the article as defined above, for the care of the skin or the hair, and / or the cleaning and / or the cleansing and / or the scrubbing of the skin. skin.

The composition used according to the invention for the impregnation of the water-insoluble substrate, intended for topical application, contains a physiologically acceptable medium, that is to say compatible with ketatinic materials such as the skin, mucous membranes, scalp, keratinous fibers such as eyelashes and hair.

By topical application is meant here an external application on keratinous substances, which are in particular the skin, the scalp, the eyelashes, the eyebrows, the nails, the mucous membranes and the hair.

The composition conveyed by the article according to the invention has the advantage of having a good safety and good cosmetic properties, that is to say a homogeneous texture and pleasant to the application, as well as a good efficiency make-up remover thanks to the presence of oils. In addition, it is stable over time. An emulsion is stable if no change in its macroscopic, microscopic appearance and physico-chemical characteristics (drop size, pH, viscosity) is observed after storage at room temperature or at 45 ° C for a period of time. 2 months.

The composition of the invention has a viscosity of, for example, from 1 mPa.s to 120 mPa.s, preferably from 5 to 115 mPa.s and better still from 10 mPa.s to 110 mPa.s, better still from 50 to 100mPa. at a temperature of 25 ° C., the viscosity being measured using a Rhéomat 180 (Company LAMY), equipped with a mobile MS-R1, MS-R2, MS-R3, MS-R4 or MS -R5 chosen according to the consistency of the composition, rotating at a speed of rotation of 200 t.min-1.

Thickening Polymer The thickening (or gelling) polymer used in the composition of the invention is chosen from copolymers resulting from the polymerization of at least one monomer (a) chosen from α, β-ethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acids or their esters. with at least one ethylenically unsaturated monomer (b) having a hydrophobic group. This polymer may also have emulsifying properties. The thickening polymer is preferably anionic.

By copolymers are meant both copolymers obtained from two kinds of monomers and those obtained from more than two kinds of monomers such as terpolymers obtained from three kinds of monomers.

Their chemical structure more particularly comprises at least one hydrophilic unit and at least one hydrophobic unit. Hydrophobic group or unit means a hydrocarbon radical, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, comprising at least 8 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 12 to 30 carbon atoms, and more preferably from 18 to 30 carbon atoms.

Preferably, the thickening copolymers are chosen from the copolymers resulting from the polymerization:

at least one monomer of formula (I) in which: R 1 denotes H or CH 3 or C 2 H 5, that is to say monomers of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid or ethacrylic acid, and

at least one unsaturated carboxylic acid (C10-C30) alkyl ester monomer corresponds to the monomer of the following formula (2): ## STR2 ## wherein R 2 denotes H or CH 3 or C2H5 (that is to say acrylate, methacrylate or ethacrylate units) and preferably H (acrylate units) or CH3 (methacrylate units), R3 denotes a C10-C30 alkyl radical, and preferably C12-C22.

The alkyl esters (C 10 -C 30) of unsaturated carboxylic acids are preferably chosen from lauryl acrylate, stearyl acrylate, decyl acrylate, isodecyl acrylate and dodecyl acrylate. and the corresponding methacrylates, such as lauryl methacrylate, stearyl methacrylate, decyl methacrylate, isodecyl methacrylate, and dodecyl methacrylate, and mixtures thereof.

According to a preferred embodiment, these thickening polymers are crosslinked. Among this type of thickening copolymers, more particularly polymers derived from the polymerization of a monomer mixture comprising: (i) essentially acrylic acid, (ii) an ester of formula (2) described above and wherein R2 is H or CH3,

R3 denoting an alkyl radical having from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, (iii) and a crosslinking agent, which is a well-known copolymerizable polyethylenic unsaturated monomer, such as diallyl phthalate, allyl (meth) acrylate, divinylbenzene, (poly) ethylene glycol dimethacrylate, and methylene-bis-acrylamide.

Among this type of copolymer, use will be made more particularly of those consisting of 95 to 60% by weight of acrylic acid (hydrophilic unit), 4 to 40% by weight of C 10 -C 30 alkyl acrylate (hydrophobic unit), and 0 to 6% by weight of polymerizable crosslinking monomer, or those consisting of 98 to 96% by weight of acrylic acid (hydrophilic unit), 1 to 4% by weight of C10-C30 alkyl acrylate (hydrophobic unit) ) and 0.1 to 0.6% by weight of crosslinking polymerizable monomer such as those described above.

Among said polymers above, the copolymers acrylate / C10-C30-alkylacrylate (INCI name Acrylates / C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer) such as the products marketed by Lubrizol under the trade names, are most particularly preferred according to the present invention. PEMULEN TRI, PEMULEN TR2, CARBOPOL 1382, CARBOPOL EDT 2020 and even more preferentially PEMULEN TR-2.

The hydrophobic thickening polymer according to the invention may represent, in the active material, from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05 to 5% by weight, better still from 0.05 to 3% by weight, more preferably from 0.05 to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

According to one embodiment, the hydrophobic modified inulin and the thickening copolymer as defined above are present in a hydrophobic modified inulin / thickening copolymer weight ratio ranging from 5: 1 to 1: 5, in particular from 4: 1 to 1 : 4, preferably from 3: 1 to 1: 3, more preferably from 3: 1 to 1: 1.

Oily phase The oily phase is a fatty phase comprising at least one fatty substance chosen from liquid fatty substances at room temperature (20-25 ° C.) or volatile or nonvolatile oils of plant, mineral or synthetic origin, and mixtures thereof. . These oils are physiologically acceptable. The oily phase may also comprise any usual liposoluble or lipodispersible additive as indicated below. It can include other fatty substances such as waxes, pasty compounds, fatty alcohols, fatty acids.

As oils that can be used in the composition of the invention, mention may be made, for example, of: hydrocarbon-based oils of animal origin, such as perhydrosqualene; hydrocarbon oils of vegetable origin, such as liquid triglycerides of fatty acids containing from 4 to 10 carbon atoms, for example triglycerides of heptanoic or octanoic acids or, for example, sunflower, corn and soybean oils; , squash, grape seed, sesame, hazelnut, apricot, macadamia, arara, coriander, castor oil, avocado, caprylic / capric acid triglycerides, such as those marketed by Stearineries Dubois or those marketed under the names Miglyol 810, 812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel, jojoba oil, shea butter oil; esters and synthetic ethers, in particular of fatty acids, such as the oils of formulas R'COOR2 and R'OR2 in which R 'represents the residue of a fatty acid or of a fatty alcohol containing from 8 to 29 carbon atoms, and R2 represents a hydrocarbon chain, branched or unbranched, containing from 3 to 30 carbon atoms, such as, for example, Purcellin oil, octyl-2-dodecyl stearate, octyl erucate or 2-dodecyl, isostearyl isostearate; hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate, octyl hydroxystearate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate, diisostearyl malate, triisocetyl citrate, heptanoates, octanoates, decanoates of fatty alcohols; polyol esters, such as propylene glycol dioctanoate, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate and diethylene glycol diisononanoate; and pentaerythritol esters such as pentaerythritol tetraisostearate; linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, such as paraffin oils, volatile or not, and their derivatives, petroleum jelly, polydecenes, isohexadecane, isododecane, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam oil; partially fluorinated hydrocarbon oils and / or silicone oils such as those described in document JP-A-2-295912; silicone oils such as volatile or non-volatile polymethylsiloxanes (PDMS) with a linear or cyclic silicone chain, which are liquid or pasty at room temperature, in particular volatile silicone oils, in particular cyclopolydimethylsiloxanes (cyclomethicones) such as cyclohexadimethylsiloxane and cyclopentadimethylsiloxane; polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl, alkoxy or phenyl groups, during or at the end of the silicone chain, groups having from 2 to 24 carbon atoms; phenyl silicones such as phenyltrimethicones, phenyldimethicones, phenyltrimethylsiloxydiphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl-dimethicones, diphenylmethyldiphenyltrisiloxanes, 2-phenylethyltrimethylsiloxysilicates, and polymethylphenylsiloxanes; - their mixtures.

Mention may in particular be made of oils chosen from: esters derived from the reaction of at least one fatty acid comprising at least 6 carbon atoms, preferably from 6 to 26 carbon atoms and better still from 6 to 20 carbon atoms more preferably 6 to 16 carbon atoms and at least one alcohol comprising 1 to 17 carbon atoms and more preferably 3 to 15 carbon atoms. - Fatty acid ethers comprising from 6 to 20 carbon atoms such as dicaprylyl ether - glycerol ethers comprising from 6 to 12 carbon atoms. and their mixtures.

These esters may especially be chosen from: (1) esters obtained from at least one unsaturated straight chain aliphatic fatty acid having at least 6 carbon atoms, preferably from 6 to 12 carbon atoms and at least an unsaturated branched chain aliphatic alcohol having from 2 to 12 carbon atoms, (2) esters obtained from at least one unsaturated linear chain aliphatic fatty acid having at least 6 carbon atoms, for example comprising from 8 to 17 atoms carbon and unsaturated linear chain aliphatic alcohol comprising 1 to 10 carbon atoms, preferably 2 to 10 carbon atoms, and mixtures thereof.

The esters are preferably mono- or di-esters. In a preferred manner, the esters contain no unsaturation and / or no ether or hydroxyl group. Even more advantageously, it is a saturated ester which contains no ether or hydroxyl group.

Thus, the ester used as makeup-removing oil of the composition according to the invention may be chosen in particular from isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, ethyl 2-hexyl caprate / caprylate (or caprate / caprylate). octyl), 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isostearyl neopentanoate, isononyl isononanoate, hexyl laurate, esters of lactic acid and fatty alcohols comprising 12 or 13 carbon atoms Dicaprylyl carbonate and mixtures thereof As ether used in the composition according to the invention, there may be mentioned in particular dicaprylyl ether (Cetiol OE de Cognis) or the 2-ethyl hexyl ether glycerol (INCI name: ethylhexylglycerin) such as Sensiva SC 50 from Schulke & Mayr GmbH.

Preferably, the composition comprising at least one oil selected from isopropyl myristate, ethyl-2-hexyl monococoate, iso-decyl monopersonate, dicaprylyl carbonate, isopropyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate. -2-hexyl, isononyl isononanoate and mixtures thereof.

The amount of oily phase may range, for example, from 2 to 35% by weight, preferably from 5 to 33% by weight, more preferably from 10 to 33% by weight and even more preferably from 15 to 30% by weight relative to the weight. total of the composition.

This amount of oily phase does not include the amount of emulsifier or thickening polymer.

In particular, the composition according to the invention comprises from 1% to 40% by weight of oils relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 2 to 30% by weight and better still from 5 to 25% by weight. According to one embodiment, the composition comprises at least 1% of oils, preferably at least 2% of oils, better still at least 5% of oils, even better, at least 10% of oils, preferably at least 15% of oils relative to the total weight of the composition.

Aqueous phase The aqueous phase of the composition according to the invention comprises water and optionally one or more compounds miscible with water or at least partly miscible with water, such as polyols; lower C2-C8 monoalcohols, such as ethanol and isopropanol. By "room temperature" is meant a temperature of about 25 ° C, at normal atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg). "Polyol" means any organic molecule having at least two free hydroxyl groups. Examples of polyols that may be mentioned include glycols such as butylene glycol, propylene glycol, isoprene glycol, glycerol and polyethylene glycols such as PEG-8, sorbitol, sugars such as glucose.

The aqueous phase may also comprise any usual water-soluble or water-dispersible additive as indicated below.

The aqueous phase preferably represents at least 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably at least 50% by weight and better still at least 60% by weight. The aqueous phase may represent from 60 to 98% by weight, preferably from 65 to 95% by weight, better still from 70 to 90% by weight, and even more preferably from 70 to 85% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. .

emulsifiers

The composition according to the invention may comprise one or more additional emulsifying agents (distinct from the copolymer and the hydrophobic modified inulin).

However, according to one embodiment, the composition comprises less than 5% by weight, preferably less than 1%, preferably less than 0.5% by weight of active ingredient of additional emulsifying agents (emulsifying surfactants or emulsifying polymers) and / or additional thickening polymers, other than the thickening polymer and the hydrophobic modified inulin defined above ,. More preferably the composition is free of additional emulsifying agents and / or additional thickening polymers.

Additives In known manner, the composition for topical application of the invention may also contain one or more adjuvants usual in the cosmetic or dermatological field. As adjuvants, gelling agents, active agents, preservatives, antioxidants, perfumes, solvents, salts, fillers, sunscreens (= UV filters), dyestuffs, basic agents (triethanolamine, diethanolamine, sodium hydroxide) or acids (citric acid), and also lipid vesicles or any other type of vector (nanocapsules, microcapsules, etc.), and mixtures thereof. These adjuvants are used in the usual proportions in the cosmetics field, and for example from 0.01 to 30% of the total weight of the composition, and they are, according to their nature, introduced into the aqueous phase of the composition or into the phase oily, or in vesicles or any other type of vector. These adjuvants and their concentrations must be such that they do not modify the property desired for the emulsion of the invention.

As fillers which can be used in the composition of the invention, mention may be made, for example, of pigments such as titanium oxide, zinc oxide or iron oxide and organic pigments; kaolin; silica; talcum; boron nitride; organic spherical powders, fibers; and their mixtures. As organic spherical powders, mention may be made, for example, of polyamide powders and in particular nylon powders such as nylon-1 or polyamide 12, sold under the names Orgasol by the company Atochem; polyethylene powders; Teflon; microspheres based on acrylic copolymers, such as those made of ethylene glycol dimethacrylate / lauryl methacrylate copolymer sold by Dow Corning under the name Polytrap; expanded powders such as hollow microspheres and in particular the microspheres sold under the name Expancel by the company Kemanord Plast or under the name Micropearl F 80 ED by the company Matsumoto; silicone resin microbeads such as those sold under the name Tospearl by the company Toshiba Silicone; polymethyl methacrylate microspheres, sold under the name MICROSPHERE M-100 by the company Matsumoto or under the name COVABEAD LH85 by the company Wackherr; ethylene-acrylate copolymer powders, such as those sold under the name FLOBEADS by Sumitomo Seika Chemicals; powders of natural organic materials such as starch powders, especially corn starch, wheat or rice, crosslinked or otherwise, such as starch powders crosslinked with octenylsuccinate anhydride, sold under the name DRY -FLO by the company National Starch. As fibers, mention may be made, for example, of polyamide fibers, such as, in particular, nylon 6 (or polyamide 6) (INCI name: nylon 6), nylon 6,6 (or polyamide 66) fibers (INCI name: nylon 66). ) or such as poly-p-phenylene terephtamide fibers; and their mixtures. These fillers may be present in amounts ranging from 0 to 20% by weight and preferably from 0.5 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition according to the invention contains, as fillers, exfoliating particles which will allow the skin to be scrubbed. As exfoliating particles, it is possible to use exfoliating or exfoliating particles of mineral, vegetable or organic origin. Thus, it is possible to use, for example, the balls or the polyethylene powder, such as those sold under the name Microthene MN 727 or Microthene MN 710-20 by the company Equistar or as the powder marketed under the name Gotalene 120 Incolore 2 by the Dupont company ; nylon particles such as those sold by Arkema under the name Orgasol 2002 EXD NAT COS; fibers such as polyamide fibers, such as those sold by the company Utexbel under the name Polymamide PULP 12185 SIZE 0.3 MM; polyvinyl chloride powder; pumice stone (INCI name: pumice) such as Eyraud's pumice 3 / B; hulls of crushed fruit stones such as crushed apricot kernels or nut hulls; sawdust; glass beads; alumina (aluminum oxide) (INCI name: Alumina), such as the product marketed under the name Dermagrain 900 by Marketech International, sugar crystals; beads that melt during application to the skin, such as, for example, spheres based on mannitol and cellulose sold under the names Unisphères by Induchem, the agar capsules sold under the names Primasponge by the Cognis company, and spheres based on jojoba esters marketed under the names Florasphères by Floratech; and their mixtures.

As active agents that may be used in the composition of the invention, mention may be made, for example, of moisturizing agents such as protein hydrolysates; sodium hyaluronate; polyols such as glycerin, glycols such as polyethylene glycols, and sugar derivatives; anti-inflammatories; procyannidol oligomers; vitamins such as vitamin A (retinol), vitamin E (tocopherol), vitamin K, vitamin C (ascorbic acid), vitamin B5 (panthenol), vitamin B3 or PP (niacinamide), derivatives of these vitamins (especially esters) and mixtures thereof; keratolytic and / or desquamating agents such as salicylic acid and its derivatives, alpha-hydroxy acids such as lactic acid and glycolic acid and their derivatives, ascorbic acid and its derivatives; urea; caffeine; depigmenting agents such as kojic acid, hydroquinone and caffeic acid; salicylic acid and its derivatives; retinoids such as carotenoids and vitamin A derivatives; hydrocortisone; melatonin; extracts of algae, mushrooms, vegetables, yeasts, bacteria; steroids; anti-bacterial active agents such as 2,4,4'-trichloro-2'-hydroxy diphenyl ether (or triclosan), 3,4,4'-trichlorocarbanilide (or triclocarban) and the acids indicated above, and in particular the salicylic acid and its derivatives; enzymes; flavonoids; tensing agents such as synthetic polymers, vegetable proteins, polysaccharides of plant origin in form or not of microgels, starches, wax dispersions, mixed silicates and colloidal particles of inorganic fillers; ceramides; anti-inflammatory agents; soothing agents; mattifying agents; anti-hair loss agents and / or hair regrowth; anti-wrinkle agents; essential oils ; and their mixtures; and any suitable asset for the ultimate purpose of the composition.

U.V. filters can be organic or inorganic (or physical U.V. filters). They may be present in an amount of active material ranging from 0.01% to 20% by weight of active material, preferably from 0.1% to 15% by weight and better still from 0.2% to 10% by weight relative to the weight. total of the composition.

Examples of organic screening agents active in the UV-A and / or UV-B which may be added in the composition of the invention include, for example, anthranilates; cinnamic derivatives; dibenzoylmethane derivatives; salicylic derivatives, camphor derivatives; triazine derivatives such as those described in patent applications US 4367390, EP863145, EP517104, EP570838, EP796851, EP775698, EP878469 and EP933376; benzophenone derivatives; [3, [3'-diphenylacrylate derivatives, benzotriazole derivatives, benzimidazole derivatives; imadazolines; bis-benzoazolyl derivatives as described in patents EP669323 and US 2,463,264; p-aminobenzoic acid derivatives (PABA); methylene bis- (hydroxyphenylbenzotriazole) derivatives as described in US5,237,071, US5,166,355, GB2303549, DE19726184 and EP893119; filter polymers and silicone filters such as those described in particular in the application WO93 / 04665; dimers derived from α-alkylstyrene such as those described in patent application DE19855649.

The total amount of organic UV filters in the compositions according to the invention may range, for example, from 0.1 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and preferably from 0.2 to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. relative to the total weight of the composition. As physical filters which may be added in the composition of the invention, mention may be made, for example, of pigments and nanopigments of metal oxides, coated or uncoated, in particular titanium oxide and iron oxides. , zirconium, zinc or cerium, and mixtures thereof, these oxides possibly being in the form of micro- or nanoparticles (nanopigments), optionally coated.

The compositions, objects of the invention, are intended for topical application and may constitute in particular a dermatological or cosmetic composition, for example intended for the treatment (anti-wrinkle, anti-aging, hydration, sun protection, etc.), the treatment, cleaning and makeup keratin materials and in particular the skin, lips, hair, eyelashes, hair and nails of human beings.

Substrate The water insoluble substrate may comprise one or more layers and may be selected from the group consisting of woven materials, nonwoven materials, foams, sponges, wadding, sheets, balls or films. It may be in particular a non-woven substrate based on fibers of natural origin (linen, wool, cotton, silk, bamboo fibers) or of synthetic origin (cellulose derivatives, viscose, polyvinyl derivatives, polyesters such as polyethylene terephthalate, polyolefins such as polyethylene (PET)) or polypropylene, polyamides such as nylon, acrylic derivatives), and mixtures thereof such as viscose / PET, polylactic acid (PLA), viscose / polylactic acid (viscose / PLA).

According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the substrate is a nonwoven. Nonwovens are generally described in RIEDEL Nonwoven Bonding Methods & Materials, Nonwoven World (1987). These substrates are obtained according to the usual methods of the technique for preparing nonwovens.

When the substrate is a non-woven fabric, a non-woven material is preferably used which does not curl and is strong enough not to disintegrate and not fluff on application to the skin. It must be absorbent, soft at least on one side for makeup removing eyes in particular. Suitable nonwovens include, for example, those sold under the names Ultraloft 15285-01, Ultraloft 182-008, Ultraloft 182-010, Ultraloft 182-016 by the company BBA, Vilmed M1519 Blau, Vilmed M 1550 N and 112. -132-3 by the company Freudenberg, the one marketed under the name Norafin 11601-0108 by Jacob Holm Industries, flocked non woven marketed under the names Univel 109 and Univel 119 by Uni Flockage, and that in Viscose / PLA provided by Sandler.

According to one embodiment, the substrate is a nonwoven made of 100% viscose or a nonwoven composed of a viscose / polylactic acid mixture (viscose / PLA)

This substrate may comprise one or more layers having identical or different properties and having elasticity, softness and other properties appropriate to the desired use. The substrates may comprise for example two parts having different elastic properties, as described in WO-A-99/13861 or comprise a single layer with different densities as described in document WO-A-99/25318, or alternatively comprise two layers of different textures as described in document WO-A-98/18441.

In addition, when the article is used for the body, the substrate may comprise at least one rough face to allow at the same time the massage of the skin or the peeling of the skin.

As noted above, the substrate can be of any size and shape suitable for the purpose. Moreover, it generally has an area of between 0.005 m2 and 0.1 m2, preferably between 0.01 m2 and 0.05 m2.

The impregnation rate of the composition on the substrate is generally from 100 to 1000%, preferably from 250 to 700% by weight of the substrate. Techniques for impregnating substrates with compositions are well known in the art and are all applicable to the present invention. In general, the impregnating composition is heated and added to the substrate by one or more techniques including dipping, coating, spraying, etc.

The invention also relates to a cosmetic process for skin care, cleaning and / or removing make-up of the skin, comprising applying to the skin an article as defined above.

The following examples according to the invention are given by way of illustration and without limitation. The names are in chemical name or in INCI name. Quantities are given in% by weight unless otherwise stated.

EXAMPLE 1 Cleaning Emulsion O / W According to the Invention The following emulsion 1 according to the invention is prepared: Phase A Water 40 Phase B Ethylhexylpalmitate 2 Copolymer acrylate / ClO-C30 alkyl 0.1 acrylate (Pemulen TR-2 from Lubrizol ) Phase C Ethylhexylpalmitate 18 preservatives qs Phase D Water 40 Lauryl inulin carbamate 96.5% in 0.2 weight of active ingredient (Inutec SPI from ORAFT) Phase E Water Phase F Sodium hydroxide Operating mode: Heat water (phase A) at 60 ° C.

With stirring, incorporate phase B until complete dispersion of the gelling agent. Add phase C with stirring. Add phase D with stirring until complete dispersion of the inulin. Add phase E then wait for the return to room temperature. Neutralize the Pemulen by adding phase F.

The composition has a viscosity, measured on the mobile 2 according to the method indicated above of 80 mPa.s. Comparative Examples 2 and 3 The following emulsions are prepared with acrylate gelling copolymer and without hydrophobic modified inulin: Example 2 Example 3 Qsp 100 0.0420 ( comparative) (comparative)%% Phase A Water 40 40 Phase B Ethylhexylpalmitate 2 2 Copolymer acrylate / C10-C30 alkyl 0.1 0.2 acrylate (Pemulen TR-2 from Lubrizol) Phase C Ethylhexylpalmitate 18 18 preservatives qs qs Phase D Water Qs 100 Qsp 100 Phase E Sodium Hydroxide 0.04 0.04 Procedure: Heat phase A to 60 ° C.

With stirring, incorporate phase B until complete dispersion of the gelling agent. With stirring, incorporate phase C to form the emulsion. Add phase D to return the preparation to room temperature. Neutralize Pemulen with addition of phase E.

The composition of Example 2 has a phase shift after 2 months at 45 ° C. The composition of Example 3 is stable but has a viscosity, measured according to the method indicated above (mobile 2) of 150 mPa.s which does not allow good impregnation on a wipe.

Comparative Example 4

The following emulsions are prepared with hydrophobic modified inulin and without: acrylate gelling copolymer:

Lauryl inulin carbamate 96.5% by weight of 0.2 active ingredient (Inutec SPI from the company ORAFTI) Ethylhexylpalmitate preservatives qs Water Qsp 100

The water is heated to 60 ° C and then incorporated with stirring the rest of the compounds until the formation of the emulsion. Allow to cool to room temperature.

The composition of Example 4 shifts as early as 24 hours after manufacture. These examples show that the combination of a gelling polymer according to the invention and hydrophobic modified inulin makes it possible to obtain a stable emulsion, of viscosity such that it allows homogeneous impregnation on an insoluble substrate such as wipe.

Measurement of Cleansing Power According to the protocol described below, it was determined the cleansing power of: - A wipe A (100% viscose nonwoven support, 50g / m2) impregnated to 400% of the composition 1 according to the invention) and a commercially available wipe B comprising a low level of oil (nonwoven support 100% viscose, 50 g / m 2) impregnated with 400% of the following composition:

Triethanolamine 0.1 Disodium cocoamphodiacetate (MIRANOL 0.15 C2M CONC NP from Rhodia) cetyl alcohol 0.15 isopropyl palmitate 0.9 preservatives qs Carbomer (CARBOPOL 981 POLYMER from Lubrizol) 0.1 xanthan gum 0.05 1,2 pentanediol 0 , 5 glycerol 3 EDTA 0.1 MONO MIXTURE / GLYCERYLE DISTEARATE / 0.56 POLYETHYLENE GLYCOL STEARATE (100 OE) (Croda Arlacel 165 FL) Water Qsp 100 1. Material - A and B cleansing wipes - Marseille Soap - 1 cover cut out of a 4x4 cm bristol board + 1 permanent LUMICOLOR felt marker S - CR300 colorimeter (Lab colorimetric measurement) - Air Wear LSF 12 - 1 stopwatch foundation without stopwatch 2. Protocol a- Trace on the skin of the skin arm, 4 areas (2 per arm) using felt and cover b- Clean skin with soap, rinse and dry (felt marks are then relieved to prevent felt transfer into the foundation at the moment of the application). c- Measure by colorimetry the bare skin: 3 measurements of L, a, b by zone d- Apply in the 4 zones delimited, in a homogeneous way, 16mg +/- 0,05mg of foundation and wait 30 minutes e- Measure by colorimetry the skin with foundation: 3 measures of L, a, b per zone f- Remove the area with the wipe by circular motion for 10 seconds then rinse with tap water (warm, uncontrolled hardness) lightly touching with the fingers of the hand available. Do the 4 zones without waiting. g- Dab with a paper tissue type Kleenex and wait 15 minutes (feeling of dry skin) h- Measure by colorimetry the cleansed skin: 3 measures of L, a, b per zone 25 3. Calculation of the percentage of makeup removal a- Color difference between masked skin and bare skin = AEmax: AE max = T (Aa12 + Ab12 + AL12) with 30 Aa, = bare skin with skin FdT Ab, = b bare skin with skin FdT AL, = The bare skin - The skin FdT RA b- For a makeup remover: Color difference of the cleansed skin compared to the masked skin = AE for each zone: AE = v (Aa22 + Ab22 + AL22) with Aa2 = skin demaq peau skin F Abe Abe = = = = = = = = F F F F F F F F F F F F F F F F F

The percentage of make-up removal is the average of the 4 values of (AE / AEmax) * 100 for a given make-up remover. The table below gives the results of the percentage of makeup removal (percentage of makeup removed) for each composition. Composition Percentage of Makeup Remover Wipe A (Invention) 54% Wipe B (Comparative) 18% This table shows that the composition according to the invention has a removal efficiency far greater than the composition of Comparative Example 10.

Claims (16)

REVENDICATIONS1. A cosmetic article comprising: (A) a water-insoluble substrate, comprising one or more layers, and (B) a composition added or impregnated onto the substrate, in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion comprising an oily phase dispersed in an aqueous phase, at least one thickening polymer resulting from the polymerization of at least one monomer (a) chosen from α, β-ethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acids or their esters, with at least one ethylenically unsaturated monomer (b) comprising a hydrophobic group, and - at least one inulin modified with hydrophobic chains. 2. Article according to claim 1, characterized in that the inulin modified with hydrophobic chains represents from 0.01 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.01 to 10% by weight, in particular from 0.05 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 10% by weight and better still from 0.1 to 5% by weight, and more preferably still from 0.1 to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. 3. Article according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the inulin modified with hydrophobic chains is obtained from chicory. 4. Article according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the hydrophobic chains of the modified inulin are lauryl carbamate groups. 5. Article according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the thickening polymer is, in active material, from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05 to 5% by weight, preferably from 0 to 5% by weight. , 5 to 3% by weight, more preferably 0.05 to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. 6. Article according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the hydrophobic group of the thickening polymer comprises at least 8 carbon atoms, preferably 10 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular 12 to 30 carbon atoms and more preferably from 18 to 30 carbon atoms. 7. Article according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the thickening polymers are chosen from copolymers resulting from the polymerization of: - at least one monomer of formula (1): CH2 Cù OH II R1 0 ( 1) in which, R1 denotes H or CH3 or C2H5, that is to say monomers acrylic acid, methacrylic acid or ethacrylic acid, and - at least one monomer of alkyl ester type (C10-C30) unsaturated carboxylic acid corresponds to the monomer of the following formula (2): wherein R2 denotes H or CH3 or C2H5 (that is to say acrylate, methacrylate or ethacrylates) and preferably H (acrylate units) or CH3 (methacrylate units), R3 denoting a C10-C30 alkyl radical, and preferably a C12-C22 alkyl radical. 8. Article according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the alkyl esters (C10-C30) of unsaturated carboxylic acids are chosen from lauryl acrylate, stearyl acrylate, acrylate and the like. decyl, isodecyl acrylate, dodecyl acrylate, and corresponding methacrylates, lauryl methacrylate, stearyl methacrylate, decyl methacrylate, isodecyl methacrylate, and dodecyl methacrylate and mixtures thereof . 9. Article according to any of the preceding claims, characterized in that said thickening polymer is a crosslinked polymer. An article according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the thickening polymer is selected from polymers formed from a monomer mixture comprising: (i) essentially acrylic acid, (ii) a unsaturated carboxylic acid (C 10 -C 30) alkyl ester corresponds to the monomer of the following formula (2): embedded image in which R 2 denotes H or CH 3, R 3 denoting an alkyl radical having from 12 to 22; carbon atoms, (iii) and a crosslinking agent, which is a copolymerizable polyethylenically unsaturated monomer such as diallyl phthalate, allyl (meth) acrylate, divinylbenzene, (poly) ethylene glycol dimethacrylate, and methylene glycol. bisacrylamide. 11. Article according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that said thickening polymer is selected from copolymers consisting of 95 to 60% by weight of acrylic acid, 4 to 40% by weight of C10 alkyl acrylate. C30, and 0 to 6% by weight of crosslinking polymerizable monomer; copolymers consisting of 98 to 96% by weight of acrylic acid (hydrophilic unit), 1 to 4% by weight of C 10 -C 30 alkyl acrylate (hydrophobic unit), and 0.1 to 0.6% % by weight of crosslinking polymerizable monomer; and their mixtures. 12. Article according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that hydrophobic modified inulin / thickening copolymer weight ratio ranges from 5: 1 to 1: 5, in particular from 4: 1 to 1: 4, preferably from 3: 1 to 1: 3, more preferably 3: 1 to 1: 1. 13. Article according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the oily phase comprises at least one oil selected from isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate caprate / ethyl caprylate 2-hexyl (or caprate) octyl caprylate), 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isostearyl neopentanoate, isononyl isononanoate, hexyl laurate, lactic acid esters of fatty alcohols comprising 12 or 13 carbon atoms, dicaprylyl carbonate, dicaprylyl ether, 2-ethylhexyl glycerol ether and mixtures thereof. 14. Article according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition comprises at least 1% of oils, preferably at least 2% of oils, better still at least 5% of oils, even better at minus 10% of oils, more preferably at least 15% of oils relative to the total weight of the composition. 15. Cosmetic composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion comprising an oily phase dispersed in an aqueous phase, comprising: at least one thickening polymer resulting from the polymerization of at least one monomer (a) chosen from carboxylic acids with α, 13-ethylenic unsaturation or their esters, with an ethylenically unsaturated monomer (b) comprising a hydrophobic group, and - at least one inulin modified with hydrophobic chains, the aqueous phase being present in a content greater than or equal to 40 % by weight relative to the total weight of the composition and said composition comprising less than 5% by weight of additional emulsifying agents relative to the total weight of the composition. 16. A cosmetic method for skin care, cleaning and / or removing make-up of the skin, comprising applying to the skin an article according to one of claims 1 to 14.