FR2986426A1 - COSMETIC COMPOSITION COMPRISING SILICA AEROGEL PARTICLES AND A SEMI-CRYSTALLINE POLYMER - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention relates to a composition for topical application comprising hydrophobic silica airgel particles; at least one semicrystalline solid polymer at room temperature and having a melting temperature below 70 ° C comprising a) a polymer backbone and b) at least one crystallizable side organic chain and / or a crystallizable organic block forming part of the backbone of said polymer, said polymer having a number average molecular weight greater than or equal to 2,000; and at least one fatty phase. The subject of the invention is also a process for the cosmetic treatment of keratin materials consisting in applying to the keratin materials a composition as defined above, as well as the use of this composition in the cosmetic or dermatological field, and in particular for the care, protection and / or makeup of the skin of the body or face, or for the care of the hair. The present invention has the advantage of improving the sensory properties of the cosmetic compositions, allowing faster and more complete skin absorption.

Description

The present application relates to a composition for topical application comprising hydrophobic silica airgel particles, at least one particular semicrystalline polymer and at least one fatty phase, and to the use of said composition in the cosmetic and dermatological fields, especially for the care, the treatment of keratin materials. In the cosmetic field, and more particularly in the field of skin care and photoprotection, it is common practice to use galenic architectures containing a structured fat phase / thickened with a lipophilic thickener. This improves the efficiency and stability of products.

In particular, in the field of photoprotection, the thickening of the fatty phase containing the lipophilic filters makes it possible to improve the homogeneity of the protective film and of the SPF while improving the resistance to water and sand. Thus, patent FR 0 200 882 describes the improvement of the SPF factor obtained by using a semi-crystalline polymer in the fatty phase of a sunscreen composition. Moreover, the structuring of the fatty phase with lipophilic thickeners is particularly advantageous for giving consistency to anhydrous or emulsified compositions for the care or makeup of the skin. Very often, waxy or pasty fats are used to obtain a thickening effect.

Nevertheless, these types of preparation have the disadvantage of leading to compositions that are greasy on application, which penetrate slowly and incompletely to the skin, leaving an unpleasant residual fatty film. There therefore remains the need to produce compositions containing a structured fatty phase that do not have these disadvantages but that would be quickly absorbed without leaving a greasy film on the skin. The Applicant has found, surprisingly, that the combination of a silica airgel with a semi-crystalline polymer makes it possible to improve the sensory properties of the cosmetic compositions containing them, allowing a faster and more complete absorption into the skin.

Thus, the present invention relates to a composition for topical application comprising hydrophobic silica airgel particles; at least one solid semicrystalline polymer at room temperature and having a melting temperature of less than 70 ° C comprising a) a polymer backbone and b) at least one crystallizable side organic chain and / or a crystallizable organic block forming part of the backbone of said polymer, said polymer having a number average molecular weight greater than or equal to 2,000; and at least one fatty phase.

Since the composition of the invention is intended for topical application to the skin or superficial body growths, it comprises a physiologically acceptable medium, ie a medium that is compatible with all keratin materials such as the skin, the nails, the mucous membranes and keratin fibers (such as hair, eyelashes).

The semi-crystalline acrylic polymer acts as a thickener of the oily phase but, depending on the properties and the desired viscosity, the composition may contain other lipophilic thickeners such as waxes. This may be advantageous for obtaining galenics in the form of butter or paste, or even sticks. Even when the level of lipophilic thickeners and / or the level of fat phase is high, the compositions according to the invention penetrate rapidly without leaving a greasy film. The subject of the invention is also a process for the cosmetic treatment of keratinous substances consisting in applying to the keratin materials a composition as defined above.

The subject of the invention is also the use of said composition in the cosmetic or dermatological field, and in particular for the care, the protection and / or the make-up of the skin of the body or of the face, or for the care of the hair . In what follows, the expression "at least one" is equivalent to "one or more" and, unless otherwise indicated, the boundaries of a domain of values are included in this field. Hydrophobic Silica Aerogels Silica aerogels are porous materials obtained by replacing (by drying) the liquid component of a silica gel with air.

They are generally synthesized by sol-gel process in a liquid medium and then usually dried by extraction of a supercritical fluid, the most commonly used being supercritical CO2. This type of drying avoids the contraction of the pores and the material. The sol-gel process and the various dryings are described in detail in Brinker CJ, and Scherer G.W., Sol-Gel Science: New York: Academic Press, 1990.

The hydrophobic silica airgel particles used in the present invention have a specific surface area per unit mass (Sm) ranging from 500 to 1500 m 2 / g, preferably from 600 to 1200 m 2 / g and better still from 600 to 800 m 2 / g. g, and a size expressed in volume mean diameter (D [0.5]) ranging from 1 to 1500 μm, better still from 1 to 1000 μm, preferably from 1 to 100 μm, in particular from 1 to 30 μm, preferably still 5 to 25 pm, more preferably 5 to 20 pm and still more preferably 5 to 15 pm. According to one embodiment, the hydrophobic silica airgel particles used in the present invention have a size expressed in volume mean diameter (D [0.5]) ranging from 1 to 30 μm, preferably from 5 to 25 μm. better from 5 to 20 μm and even better from 5 to 15 μm. The specific surface area per unit mass can be determined by the nitrogen absorption method called the BET method (BRUNAUER - EMMET - TELLER) described in "The Journal of the American Chemical Society", vol. 60, page 309, February 1938 and corresponding to the international standard ISO 5794/1 (Appendix D). The BET surface area corresponds to the total specific surface area of the particles under consideration. The silica airgel particle sizes can be measured by static light scattering using a MasterSizer 2000 commercial particle size analyzer from Malvern. The data is processed on the basis of Mie scattering theory. This theory, which is accurate for isotropic particles, makes it possible to determine, in the case of non-spherical particles, an "effective" diameter of particles. This theory is particularly described in the work of Van de Hulst, H.C., "Light Scattering by Small Particles," Chapters 9 and 10, Wiley, New York, 1957.

According to an advantageous embodiment, the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles used in the present invention have a specific surface per unit mass (SM) ranging from 600 to 800 m 2 / g and a size expressed in volume mean diameter (D [0.5]) ranging from 5 to 20 μm and even more preferably from 5 to 15 μm. The silica airgel particles used in the present invention may advantageously have a packed density (p ranging from 0.04 g / cm 3 to 0.10 g / cm 3, preferably from 0.05 g / cm 3 to 0.08 g / cm 3. In the context of the present invention, this density can be assessed according to the following protocol, referred to as the packed density: 40 g of powder are poured into a graduated cylinder, and the test piece is then placed on STAMP's STAV 2003 machine. VOLUMETER, the specimen is then subjected to a series of 2500 settlements (this operation is repeated until the difference in volume between two consecutive tests is less than 2%), then the final volume is measured directly on the test piece. The compacted density is determined by the ratio m / Vf, in this case 40 / Vf (Vf being expressed in cm3 and m in g) According to one embodiment, the particles of hydrophobic silica aerogels used in the present invention p there is a specific surface area per unit volume Sv ranging from 5 to 60 m 2 / cm 3, preferably from 10 to 50 m 2 / cm 3 and more preferably from 15 to 40 m 2 / cm 3. The specific surface area per unit volume is given by the relation: Sv = SM xp. Where p is the packed density expressed in g / cm3 and SM is the specific surface area per unit mass expressed in m2 / g, as defined more above.

Preferably, the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles according to the invention have an oil absorption capacity measured with WET POINT ranging from 5 to 18 ml / g, preferably from 6 to 15 ml / g and better still from 8 to 18 ml / g. at 12 ml / g. The absorption capacity measured at Wet Point, and denoted by Wp, corresponds to the amount of oil that must be added to 100 g of particles in order to obtain a homogeneous paste. It is measured according to the so-called Wet Point method or method for determining the setting of powder oil described in standard NF T 30-022. It corresponds to the quantity of oil adsorbed on the available surface of the powder and / or absorbed by the powder by measuring the Wet Point, described below: A quantity m = 2 g of powder is placed on a glass plate and then the oil (isononyl isononanoate) is added dropwise. After addition of 4 to 5 drops of oil in the powder, mixing is carried out with a spatula and oil is added until the formation of oil and powder conglomerates. From this moment, the oil is added one drop at a time and then triturated with the spatula. The addition of oil is stopped when a firm and smooth paste is obtained. This paste should be spread on the glass plate without cracks or lumps. The volume Vs (expressed in ml) of oil used is then noted. The oil intake corresponds to the ratio Vs / m. The aerogels used according to the present invention are aerogels of hydrophobic silica, preferably of silylated silica (INCI name silica silylate). Hydrophobic silica is understood to mean any silica the surface of which is treated with silylating agents, for example with halogenated silanes such as alkylchlorosilanes, siloxanes, in particular dimethylsiloxanes such as hexamethyldisiloxane, or silazanes, so as to functionalizing the OH groups with Si-Rn silyl groups, for example trimethylsilyl groups. Concerning the preparation of hydrophobic silica airgel particles surface-modified by silylation, reference can be made to US Pat. No. 7,470,725. In particular, hydrophobic silica airgel particles surface-modified with trimethylsilyl groups (trimethylsiloxylated silica) will be used.

Examples of hydrophobic silica aerogels that can be used in the invention include, for example, the airgel marketed under the name VM-2260 (INCI name Silica silylate), by the company Dow Corning, whose particles have an average size. about 1000 microns and a specific surface area per unit mass ranging from 600 to 800 m2 / g.

The aerogels marketed by Cabot under the references AEROGEL TLD 201, AEROGEL OGD 201, AEROGEL TLD 203, ENOVA® AEROGEL MT 1100 and ENOVA AEROGEL MT 1200 may also be mentioned.

The aerogel marketed under the name VM-2270 (INCI name Silica silylate), by the company Dow Corning, whose particles have an average size ranging from 5 to 15 microns and a specific surface per unit mass ranging from 600 to 800 m2 / g.

The hydrophobic silica airgel particles may be present in the composition according to the invention in an active material content ranging from 0.1 to 15% by weight, preferably from 1 to 10% by weight, better still from 1 to 5% by weight. % by weight more preferably from 1 to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Semi-Crystalline Polymer The semi-crystalline polymer used in the composition of the invention is generally introduced into the fatty phase of the composition. For the purposes of the invention, the term "polymers" means compounds comprising at least 2 repeating units, preferably at least 3 repeating units, and more especially at least 10 repeating units. The term "semicrystalline polymer" means polymers comprising a crystallizable part, pendant and / or terminal crystallizable chain or crystallizable block in the backbone and / or at the ends, and an amorphous part in the backbone and having a temperature of change of reversible phase of the first order, in particular of fusion (solid-liquid transition). When the crystallizable portion is in the form of a crystallizable block of the polymer backbone, the amorphous portion of the polymer is in the form of an amorphous sequence; in this case, the semicrystalline polymer is a block copolymer, for example of the diblock, triblock or multiblock type, comprising at least one crystallizable block and at least one amorphous block. By "sequence" is generally meant at least 5 identical repetition patterns. The crystallizable sequence (s) are then of a different chemical nature from the amorphous sequence (s). According to one particular embodiment, the semi-crystalline polymer or polymers used in the composition of the invention have a melting temperature (or melting point) pF of less than 70 ° C., preferably less than 50 ° C., this temperature being at least equal to the temperature of the keratinous support to receive the composition according to the invention. The semi-crystalline polymer (s) can thus have a melting temperature pF such that 25 ° C.pF <70 ° C., and preferably 30 ° C.pF <50 ° C. This melting temperature is a first order change of state temperature.

The melting temperature can be measured by any known method and in particular using a differential scanning calorimeter (D.S.C.).

Advantageously, the semi-crystalline polymer (s) of the composition of the invention have a number-average molecular weight Mn ranging from 2,000 to 800,000, preferably from 3,000 to 500,000, better still from 4,000 to 150,000. , in particular less than 100,000, and preferably from 4,000 to 99,000. Preferably, they have a number-average molecular mass greater than 5,600, for example from 5,700 to 99,000. In the composition according to the invention the Semi-crystalline polymers are advantageously soluble in the fatty phase to at least 1% by weight, at a temperature above their melting temperature.

Apart from crystallizable chains or blocks, the sequences of the polymers are amorphous. By "chain or crystallizable block" is meant, in the sense of the invention, a chain or sequence which, if it were alone, would pass from the amorphous state to the crystalline state, reversibly, depending on whether it is above or below below the melting temperature. A chain within the meaning of the invention is a group of atoms, during or lateral to the backbone of the polymer. A sequence is a group of atoms belonging to the backbone, a group constituting one of the repeating units of the polymer. Advantageously, the "crystallizable pendant chain" can be a chain comprising at least 6 carbon atoms. Preferably, the crystallizable sequence (s) or chain (s) of the semicrystalline polymers represent at least 30% of the total weight of each polymer and better still at least 40%. The semicrystalline polymers of the invention with crystallizable sequences are polymers, sequenced or multiblocked. They can be obtained by reactive (or ethylenic) double bond monomer polymerization or by polycondensation. When the polymers of the invention are crystallizable side chain polymers, the latter are advantageously in random or statistical form. Preferably, the semi-crystalline polymers of the invention are of synthetic origin. In addition, they do not have a polysaccharide backbone. In general, the crystallizable units (chains or sequences) of the semi-crystalline polymers according to the invention come from monomer (s) with sequence (s) or crystallizable chain (s), used for the manufacture semi-crystalline polymers. According to the invention, the semi-crystalline polymer may be chosen from block copolymers comprising at least one crystallizable block and at least one amorphous block, homopolymers and copolymers bearing at least one crystallizable side chain per repeating unit, and mixtures thereof. The semicrystalline polymers that can be used in the invention are in particular: block copolymers of polyolefins with controlled crystallization, in particular those whose monomers are described in EP-A-0 951 897. polycondensates and in particular of the polyester, aliphatic type or aromatic or aliphatic / aromatic copolyester, homopolymers or copolymers bearing at least one crystallizable side chain and homopolymers bearing in the skeleton at least one crystallizable block, such as those described in US-A And homopolymers bearing at least one crystallizable side chain, in particular with a fluorinated group (s) as described in document VVO-A-01/19333, and mixtures thereof. In the latter two cases, the side chain or crystallizable sequences are hydrophobic. a) Semicrystalline Polymers with Crystallizable Side Chains: Mention may in particular be made of those defined in US-A-5156911 and WO-A-01/19333. These are homopolymers or copolymers comprising from 50 to 100% by weight of units resulting from the polymerization of one or more monomers bearing crystallizable hydrophobic side chain. These homo- or co-polymers are of any kind as long as they have the conditions indicated above. They can result from: - the radical polymerization of one or more monomers with double bond (s) reactive (s) or ethylenic vis-à-vis a polymerization, namely to vinyl group, (meth) acrylic or allylic. polycondensation of one or more monomers bearing co-reactive groups (carboxylic or sulphonic acid, alcohol, amine or isocyanate), for example polyesters, polyurethanes, polyethers, polyureas or polyamides. In general, these polymers are chosen in particular from homopolymers and copolymers resulting from the polymerization of at least one crystallizable chain monomer (s) which may be represented by formula (I): - M - S35 with M representing an atom of the polymer backbone, S representing a spacer, C representing a crystallizable group. The crystallizable "-S-C" chains may be aliphatic or aromatic, optionally fluorinated or perfluorinated. "S" represents in particular a linear or branched or cyclic (CH 2) 'or (CH 2 CH 2 O)' or (CH 2 O) group, where n is an integer ranging from 0 to 22. Preferably "S" is a linear group. Preferably, "S" and "C" are different. When the crystallizable "-S-C" chains are aliphatic hydrocarbon chains, they comprise hydrocarbon alkyl chains with at least 11 carbon atoms and at most 40 carbon atoms and better still at most 24 carbon atoms. These include aliphatic chains or alkyl chains having at least 12 carbon atoms and preferably these are alkyl chains at 0-14-024. When it is fluorinated or perfluorinated alkyl chains, they comprise at least 6 fluorinated carbon atoms and in particular at least 11 carbon atoms of which at least 6 carbon atoms are fluorinated.

As examples of semi-crystalline polymers or copolymers with crystallizable chain (s), mention may be made of those resulting from the polymerization of one or more of the following monomers: alkyl (meth) acrylates saturated with the C14 alkyl group - 024, the perfluoroalkyl (meth) acrylates with a C11-C15 perfluoroalkyl group, the N-alkyl (meth) acrylamides with the C14-C24 alkyl group with or without a fluorine atom, the vinyl esters with alkyl chains or perfluoro (alkyl) with C14-C24 alkyl (with at least 6 fluorine atoms for a perfluoroalkyl chain), vinyl ethers with alkyl chains or perfluoro (alkyl) with C14-C24 alkyl group and at least 6 fluorine atoms for a perfluoroalkyl chain, C14-C24 alpha-olefins such as octadecene, para-alkyl styrenes with an alkyl group having from 12 to 24 carbon atoms, and mixtures thereof. When the polymers result from a polycondensation, the crystallizable hydrocarbon and / or fluorinated chains as defined above are borne by a monomer which may be a diacid, a diol, a diamine or a diisocyanate. When the polymers which are the subject of the invention are copolymers, they contain, in addition, from 0 to 50% of Y or Z groups resulting from the copolymerization of: a) Y which is a polar or non-polar monomer or a mixture of the two :. When Y is a polar monomer, it is either a monomer bearing polyoxyalkylene groups (in particular oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylene), a hydroxyalkyl (meth) acrylate such as hydroxyethyl acrylate, (meth) acrylamide, a alkyl (meth) acrylamide, an N, N-dialkyl (meth) acrylamide such as, for example, N, N-diisopropylacrylamide or N-vinylpyrrolidone (NVP), N-vinyl caprolactam, a monomer carrying at least a carboxylic acid group such as (meth) acrylic acid, crotonic acid, itaconic acid, maleic acid, fumaric acid or carboxylic acid anhydride group such as maleic anhydride, and mixtures thereof. When Y is a non-polar monomer it may be a branched or cyclic linear alkyl (meth) acrylate ester, a vinyl ester, an alkyl vinyl ether, an alpha-olefin, styrene or styrene substituted with an alkyl group. Ci at 010, such as amethylstyrene. By "alkyl" is meant within the meaning of the invention a saturated group including C8 to 024, except express mention, and better in 014 to 024. (3) Z which is a polar monomer or a mixture of monomers In this case, Z has the same definition as the "polar Y" defined above Preferably, the semicrystalline crystallizable side chain polymers are alkyl (meth) acrylate or alkyl (meth) homopolymers. ) acrylamide with an alkyl group as defined above, and in particular C14-O24, copolymers of these monomers with a hydrophilic monomer preferably of a different nature from (meth) acrylic acid such as N-vinylpyrrolidone or hydroxyethyl (meth) acrylate and mixtures thereof b) Polymers bearing in the backbone at least one crystallizable block: These polymers are in particular block copolymers consisting of at least two sequences of different chemical nature, one of which is crystallizable. can you to use the block polymers defined in US-A-5,156,911; The block copolymers of olefin or cycloolefin with a crystallizable chain, such as those resulting from the sequential polymerization of: cyclobutene, cyclohexene, cyclooctene, norbornene (i.e., bicyclo (2,2,1) heptene-2), 5-methylnorbornene, 5-ethylnorbornene, 5,6-dimethylnorbornene, 5,5,6-trimethyl norbornene , 5-ethylidene-norbornene, 5-phenyl-norbonene, 5-benzylnorbornene, 5-vinyl norbornene, 1,4,5,8-dimethano-1,2,3,4,4a, 5,8a-octahydronaphthalene, dicyclopentadiene or their mixtures,. with ethylene, propylene, 1-butene, 3-methyl-1-butene, 1-hexene, 4-methyl-1-pentene, 1-octene, 1-decene, 1-eicosene or their mixtures,. and in particular copoly (ethylene / norbornene) blocks and terpolymers (ethylene / propylene / ethylidene norbornene) blocks. It is also possible to use those resulting from the block copolymerization of at least 2 α-olefins with C 2 -C 16 and better still with O 2 -C 12 and better still with C 4 -C 12 such as those mentioned above and in particular with block bipolymers of ethylene and 1-octene. The copolymers may be copolymers having at least one crystallizable block, the remainder of the copolymer being amorphous (at room temperature). These copolymers may, in addition, have two crystallizable blocks of different chemical nature. The preferred copolymers are those which have both at room temperature, a crystallizable block and an amorphous sequence both hydrophobic and lipophilic distributed sequentially; for example, polymers having one of the crystallizable blocks and one of the following amorphous blocks: Sequence crystallizable by nature: a) polyester such as poly (alkylene terephthalate), b) polyolefin such as polyethylenes or polypropylenes. . Amorphous and lipophilic sequence such as amorphous polyolefins or copoly (olefins) such as poly (isobutylene), hydrogenated polybutadiene, hydrogenated poly (isoprene). As examples of such copolymers with crystallizable block and with distinct amorphous sequence, mention may be made of: a) poly (E-caprolactone) -b-poly (butadiene) block copolymers, preferably used hydrogenated, such as those described in the article "Melting behavior of poly (Ecaprolactone) -block-polybutadiene copolymers" from S. Nojima, Macromolecules, 32, 37273734 (1999). (3) Block or multiblocked poly (butylene terephthalate) -b-poly (isoprene) block copolymers, cited in the article "Study of morphological and mechanical properties of PP / PBT" by B. Boutevin et al., Polymer Bulletin, 34, 117-123 (1995). y) the poly (ethylene) -b-copoly (ethylene / propylene) block copolymers mentioned in the papers "Morphology of semi-crystalline block copolymers of ethylene- (ethylene-alt-propylene)" by P. Rangarajan et al., Macromolecules 26, 4640-4645 (1993) and "Polymer agregates with crystalline cores: the poly (ethylene) -poly (ethylene-propylene) system" of P. Richter et al., Macromolecules, 30, 1053-1068 (1997). 8) the block copolymers poly (ethylene) -b-poly (ethylethylene) cited in the general article "Crystallization in block copolymers" of I.W. Hamley, Advances in Polymer Science, Vol 148, 113-137 (1999). The semi-crystalline polymers of the composition of the invention may or may not be partially crosslinked as long as the degree of crosslinking does not interfere with their dissolution or dispersion in the liquid fatty phase by heating above their melting point. It may then be a chemical crosslinking, by reaction with a multifunctional monomer during the polymerization. It can also be a physical crosslinking which can then be due either to the establishment of hydrogen or dipolar type bonds between groups carried by the polymer such as dipolar interactions between ionomers carboxylates, these interactions being in small amounts and carried by the polymer backbone; or at a phase separation between the crystallizable blocks and the amorphous blocks carried by the polymer. Preferably, the semi-crystalline polymers of the composition according to the invention are uncrosslinked. According to one particular embodiment of the invention, the polymer is chosen from the copolymers resulting from the polymerization of at least one crystallizable chain monomer chosen from 0-14 to 024 saturated alkyl (meth) acrylates, (meth) perfluoroalkyl acrylates C 1 -C 15, N alkyl (meth) acrylamides at 0 to 024 with or without fluorine atom, alkyl esters with alkyl chains or perfluoroalkyl at 0 to 024, vinyl ethers with alkyl chains or perfluoroalkyl at 0 to 14 at 024, alpha-olefins at 014 to 024, para-alkyl styrenes with an alkyl group having from 12 to 24 carbon atoms, with at least one optionally fluorinated C1 to 010 monocarboxylic acid ester or amide, which may be represented by the following formula (w): wherein R1 is H or CH3, R is optionally fluorinated C1-C10 alkyl and X is O, NH or NR2, wherein R2 is C1-C10 alkyl;possibly fluorinated. According to a more particular embodiment of the invention, the polymer is derived from a monomer with a crystallizable chain chosen from (saturated) alkyl (meth) acrylates in 0 to 022 and even more particularly poly (stearyl acrylate) or poly (behenyl acrylate).

As a particular example of a semi-crystalline structuring polymer that may be used in the composition according to the invention, mention may be made of the polymers whose INCI name "POLY C10-30 ALKYL ACRYLATE, such as the products lntelimer® from AIR PRODUCTS, as the product lntelimer® IPA 13-1 which is a stearyl polyacrylate or the product lntelimer® IPA 13-6 which is a behenyl polymer.

The semi-crystalline polymers may especially be those described in Examples 3, 4, 5, 7, 9, 13 of US Pat. No. 5,156,911 with a -COOH group, resulting from the copolymerization of acrylic acid and of C 6 -C 16 alkyl (meth) acrylate and more particularly copolymerization: H 2 C. of acrylic acid, hexadecylacrylate and isodecylacrylate in a 1/16/3 weight ratio, of acrylic acid and pentadecylacrylate in a weight ratio 1/19, of acrylic acid, hexadecylacrylate, ethyl acrylate in a weight ratio of 2.5: 76.5: 20. of acrylic acid, hexadecylacrylate and methylacrylate in a 5/85/10 weight ratio,. of acrylic acid and octadecylmethacrylate in a weight ratio of 2.5: 97.5, hexadecyl acrylate, polyethylene glycol methacrylate monomethyl ether with 8 ethylene glycol units, and acrylic acid in a weight ratio 8.5 / 1 / 0.5. It is also possible to use the "O" structure polymer of National Starch such as that described in document US Pat. No. 5,736,125, with a melting point of 44 ° C., as well as semi-crystalline polymers with crystallizable pendant chains containing fluorinated groups. as described in Examples 1, 4, 6, 7 and 8 of VVO-A-01/19333.

It is also possible to use the semi-crystalline polymers obtained by copolymerization of stearyl acrylate and acrylic acid or of NVP as described in document US-A-5 519 063 or EP-A-550745, respectively, of melting temperature. 40 ° C and 38 ° C. It is also possible to use the semi-crystalline polymers obtained by copolymerization of behenyl acrylate and acrylic acid or of NVP as described in documents US-A-5519063 and EP-A-550745, respectively, of melting temperature. 60 ° C and 58 ° C. Preferably, the semi-crystalline polymers do not contain a carboxylic group.

The semi-crystalline polymer (s) may be present in the composition in an amount of active material ranging from 0.1 to 12% by weight, preferably from 1 to 6% by weight, and better still from 1 to 3% by weight. relative to the total weight of the composition. The composition according to the invention may be in various galenic forms conventionally used for topical applications, and in particular in the form of serum-type dispersions, milk-type liquid or semi-liquid consistency emulsions, obtained by dispersion of a fatty phase in an aqueous phase (O / W) or conversely (W / O), or suspensions or emulsions of soft, semi-solid or solid consistency of the cream or gel type, or multiple emulsions (E / H / E or H / E / H), microemulsions, vesicular dispersions of ionic and / or nonionic type. These compositions are prepared according to the usual methods.

In addition, the compositions used according to the invention may be more or less fluid and have the appearance of a gel, a white or colored cream, an ointment, a milk, a serum, a a paste, a foam.

According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention is in the form of an anhydrous composition. According to another particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention is in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion comprising a continuous oily phase and an aqueous phase dispersed in said oily phase, or in the form of an oil-in-oil emulsion. water comprising a continuous aqueous phase and an oily phase dispersed in said aqueous phase. By "anhydrous", within the meaning of the present invention, is meant a composition comprising a content less than or equal to 1% by weight of water preferably less than or equal to 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition even free of water. If necessary, such small amounts of water may in particular be brought by ingredients of the composition which may contain residual amounts. Fatty phase The composition according to the invention comprises at least one fatty phase. When the composition is in the form of an anhydrous composition, the proportion of the fatty phase may range, for example, from 30% to 99% by weight, preferably from 50% to 90% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. When the composition is in the form of an emulsion, the proportion of the fatty phase can range, for example, from 1 to 80% by weight, preferably from 5 to 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. This indicated amount does not include the content of lipophilic surfactants. For the purposes of the invention, the fatty phase includes any fatty substance that is liquid at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure, generally oils, or that is solid at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure, such as waxes, or any pasty compound, present in the said fatty phase. composition. The fatty phase of the composition according to the invention generally comprises at least one volatile or non-volatile oil.

The term "oil" means any fatty substance in liquid form at ambient temperature (25 ° C.) and at atmospheric pressure. The volatile or non-volatile oils may be hydrocarbon oils, in particular of animal or vegetable origin, synthetic oils, silicone oils, fluorinated oils, or mixtures thereof. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "silicone oil" means an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and in particular at least one Si-O group.

The term "hydrocarbon-based oil" means an oil containing mainly hydrogen and carbon atoms and optionally oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and / or phosphorus atoms. Non-volatile oils For the purposes of the present invention, the term "non-volatile oil" means an oil having a vapor pressure of less than 0.13 Pa (0.01 mmHg). The non-volatile oils may in particular be chosen from fluorinated hydrocarbon oils which may be fluorinated and / or non-volatile silicone oils. As nonvolatile hydrocarbon oil suitable for the implementation of the invention, mention may be made in particular of: - hydrocarbon-based oils of animal origin, - hydrocarbon-based oils of vegetable origin, such as phytostearyl esters, such as oleate phytostearyl, isostearate of physostearyl and glutanate of lauroyl / octyldodecyl / phytostearyl, for example sold under the name ELDEW PS203 by AJINOMOTO, triglycerides consisting of esters of fatty acids and glycerol whose fatty acids may have lengths various chains of C4 to C24, the latter being linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated; these oils are in particular heptanoic or octanoic triglycerides, wheat germ, sunflower, grape seed, sesame, corn, apricot, castor oil, shea, avocado, olive, soya, sweet almond, palm, rapeseed, cotton, hazelnut, macadamia, jojoba, alfalfa, poppy, pumpkin, squash, blackcurrant, evening primrose, millet, barley quinoa, rye, safflower, bancoulier, passionflower, muscat rose; shea butter; or the triglycerides of caprylic / capric acids, such as those sold by the company Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the names MIGLYOL 810®, 812® and 818® by the company Dynamit Nobel; refined vegetable perhydrosqualene sold under the name Fitoderm by Cognis; hydrocarbon oils of mineral or synthetic origin, for example: synthetic ethers having from 10 to 40 carbon atoms; linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, such as petroleum jelly, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as parleam, squalane and their mixtures, and in particular hydrogenated polyisobutene; synthetic esters such as oils; of formula RiCOOR2 wherein R1 represents the residue of a linear or branched fatty acid having from 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R2 represents a particularly branched hydrocarbon chain containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, provided that R1 + R2 is 10. The esters may especially be chosen from esters, especially of fatty acids, for example: dicaprylyl carbonate (Cetiol CC from Cognis), cetostearyl octanoate, esters of isopropyl alcohol, such as isopropyl myristate. isopropyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isopropyl isostearate or isostearate, isostearyl isostearate, sodium stearate, isostearyl isostearate, octyl, hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactact, octyl hydroxystearate, diisopropyl adipate, heptanoates, and especially isostearyl heptanoate, octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates of alcohols or polyalcohols as propylene glycol dioctanoate, cetyl octanoate, tridecyl octanoate, 4-diheptanoate and 2-hexyl ethyl palmitate, alkyl benzoate, polyethylene glycol diheptanoate, diethyl 2-d propylene glycol hexanoate and mixtures thereof, 012-015 alcohol benzoates, hexyl laurate, esters of neopentanoic acid such as isodecyl neopentanoate, isotridecyl neopentanoate, isostearyl neopentanoate, octyldocecyl neopentanoate, esters of isononanoic acid such as isononyl isononanoate, isotridecyl isononanoate, octyl isononanoate, hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate, di-isostearyl malate ; polyol esters and pentaerythritol esters, such as di pentaerythritol tetrahydroxystearate / tetraisostearate, diol dimeric diol and dimer esters, such as Lusplan DD-DA5® and Lusplan DD-DA7®, marketed by Nippon Fine Chemical. and described in application FR 03 02809, - branched-chain and / or unsaturated carbon-chain liquid fatty alcohols having from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, such as 2-octyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleic alcohol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-butyloctanol, and 2-undecylpentadecanol, - higher fatty acids such as oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid and mixtures thereof, and - di-alkyl carbonates, 2 alkyl chains which may be identical or different, such as dicaprylyl carbonate sold under the name Cetiol CC®, by Cognis, non-volatile silicone oils, for example polydimethyl non-volatile siloxanes (PDMS), the polydimethylsiloxanes comprising pendant alkyl or alkoxy groups and / or silicone chain ends, groups each having from 2 to 24 carbon atoms, phenyl silicones such as phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyls; trimethylsiloxy diphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl methyldiphenyl trisiloxanes, and 2-phenylethyl trimethylsiloxysilicates, dimethicones or phenyltrimethicone with a viscosity less than or equal to 100 Cst, and mixtures thereof, and mixtures thereof. Volatile oils For the purposes of the present invention, the term "volatile oil" means an oil (or non-aqueous medium) capable of evaporating on contact with the skin in less than one hour, at ambient temperature and at atmospheric pressure. The volatile oil is a volatile cosmetic oil which is liquid at ambient temperature, in particular having a non-zero vapor pressure, at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure, in particular having a vapor pressure ranging from 0.13 Pa to 40 000 Pa (10 3 to 300 mmHg), in particular ranging from 1.3 Pa to 13 000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mmHg), and more particularly ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mmHg). ). The volatile hydrocarbon oils may be chosen from hydrocarbon-based oils containing from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and especially C8-C16 branched alkanes (also known as isoparaffins), such as isododecane (also called 2,2,4,4,6). - pentamethylheptane), isodecane, isohexadecane, and for example the oils sold under the trade names of Isopars® or Permethyls®. As volatile oils, it is also possible to use volatile silicones, for example volatile linear or cyclic silicone oils, in particular those having a viscosity of 8 centistokes (8 × 10 -6 m 2 / s), and having in particular from 2 to 10 atoms. silicon, and in particular from 2 to 7 silicon atoms, these silicones optionally comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms. As volatile silicone oil that may be used in the invention, mention may be made in particular of dimethicones of viscosity 5 and 6 cSt, octamethyl cyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, heptamethylhexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane and hexamethyl. disiloxane, octamethyl trisiloxane, decamethyl tetrasiloxane, dodecamethyl pentasiloxane, and mixtures thereof. Fluorinated volatile oils such as nonafluoromethoxybutane or perfluoromethylcyclopentane and mixtures thereof can also be used.

It is also possible to use a mixture of the oils mentioned above. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "pasty fatty substance" is intended to mean a lipophilic fat compound with a reversible solid / liquid state change having, in the solid state, an anisotropic crystalline organization and comprising at a temperature of 23 ° C. liquid and a solid fraction. In other words, the starting melting temperature of the pasty fatty substance may be less than 23 ° C. The liquid fraction of the pasty fatty substance measured at 23 ° C. may represent 9 to 97% by weight of the pasty fatty substance. This liquid fraction at 23 ° C is preferably between 15 and 85%, more preferably between 40 and 85% by weight. For the purposes of the invention, the melting temperature corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed in thermal analysis (DSC) as described in ISO 11357-3; 1999. The melting point of a pasty fatty substance can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name "MDSC 2920" by the company TA Instruments. The measurement protocol is as follows: A sample of 5 mg of pasty fatty substance placed in a crucible is subjected to a first temperature rise ranging from -20 ° C to 100 ° C, at the heating rate of 10 ° C / minute, then is cooled from 100 ° C to -20 ° C at a cooling rate of 10 ° C / minute and finally subjected to a second temperature rise from -20 ° C to 100 ° C at a heating rate of 5 ° C / minute. During the second temperature rise, the variation of the power difference absorbed by the empty crucible and the crucible containing the pasty fatty substance sample is measured as a function of temperature. The melting point of the pasty fatty substance is the value of the temperature corresponding to the peak apex of the curve representing the variation of the difference in power absorbed as a function of temperature. The liquid fraction by weight of the pasty fatty substance at 23 ° C. is equal to the ratio of the enthalpy of fusion consumed at 23 ° C. on the heat of fusion of the pasty fatty substance. The enthalpy of melting of the pasty fatty substance is the enthalpy consumed by the latter to pass from the solid state to the liquid state. The pasty fatty substance is said in the solid state when the entirety of its mass is in crystalline solid form. The pasty fatty substance is said in the liquid state when the entirety of its mass is in liquid form.

The enthalpy of melting of the pasty fatty substance is equal to the area under the curve of the thermogram obtained using a differential scanning calorimeter (DS C), such as the calorimeter sold under the name MDSC 2920 by the company TA instrument, with a temperature rise of 5 or 10 ° C per minute, according to ISO 11357-3: 1999. The enthalpy of melting of the pasty fatty substance is the amount of energy required to pass the pasty fatty substance from the solid state to the liquid state. It is expressed in J / g. The heat of fusion consumed at 23 ° C is the amount of energy absorbed by the sample to change from the solid state to the state that it has at 23 ° C consisting of a liquid fraction and a solid fraction. The liquid fraction of the pasty fatty substance measured at 32 ° C. preferably represents from 30 to 100% by weight of the pasty fatty substance, preferably from 50 to 100%, more preferably from 60 to 100% by weight of the pasty fatty substance. When the liquid fraction of the pasty fatty substance measured at 32 ° C. is equal to 100%, the temperature of the end of the melting range of the pasty fatty substance is less than or equal to 32 ° C. The liquid fraction of the pasty fatty substance measured at 32 ° C. is equal to the ratio of the enthalpy of fusion consumed at 32 ° C. on the heat of fusion of the pasty fatty substance. The enthalpy of fusion consumed at 32 ° C. is calculated in the same way as the heat of fusion consumed at 23 ° C.

The pasty fatty substance is preferably selected from synthetic fats and vegetable fats. A pasty fatty substance can be obtained synthetically from starting materials of plant origin. The pasty fatty substance is advantageously chosen from: lanolin and its derivatives, polyol ethers chosen from pentaerythritol ethers and polyalkylene glycol ethers, fatty alcohol and sugar ethers, and mixtures thereof. pentaerythritol ether and polyethylene glycol comprising 5 oxyethylenated units (50E) (CTFA name: PEG-5 Pentaerythrityl Ether), pentaerythritol ether and polypropylene glycol comprising 5 oxypropylene units (5 PO) (CTFA name: PPG- 5 Pentaerythrityl Ether), and mixtures thereof, and more particularly the PEG-5 Pentaerythrityl Ether mixture, PPG-5 Pentaerythrityl Ether and soya oil, sold under the name "Lanolide" by the company VEVY, a mixture in which the constituents are in a ratio by weight 46/46/8: 46% of PEG-5 Pentaerythrityl Ether, 46% of PPG-5 Pentaerythrityl Ether and 8% of soybean oil, - polymeric or non-polymeric silicone compounds, - polymeric or non-polymeric fluorinated compounds, vinyl polymers, especially: homopolymers and copolymers of olefins, homopolymers and copolymers of hydrogenated dienes, liposoluble polyethers resulting from polyetherification between one or more diols in C 2-C100, preferably C 2 -C 50, the esters, and / or mixtures thereof. The pasty fatty substance is preferably a polymer, in particular a hydrocarbon polymer. Among the liposoluble polyethers, copolymers of ethylene oxide and / or of propylene oxide with long-chain C 6 -C 30 alkylene oxides are preferred, more preferably such as the weight ratio of ethylene oxide. and / or propylene oxide with alkylene oxides in the copolymer is from 5:95 to 70:30. In this family, mention will in particular be made of copolymers such as long-chain alkylene oxides arranged in blocks having an average molecular weight of 1,000 to 10,000, for example a polyoxyethylene / polydodecyl glycol block copolymer such as dodecanediol ethers (22 mol ) and polyethylene glycol (45 0E) marketed under the trademark ELFACOS ST9 by AKZO NOBEL. Among the esters, the following are particularly preferred: esters of an oligomeric glycerol, in particular the esters of diglycerol, in particular the condensates of adipic acid and of glycerol, for which part of the hydroxyl groups of the glycerols have reacted with a mixture of fatty acids such as stearic acid, capric acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid and 12-hydroxystearic acid, such as those marketed under the trademark Softisan 649 by SASOL, arachidyl propionate sold under the trademark Waxenol 801 by Alzo; phytosterol esters; triglycerides of fatty acids and their derivatives; pentaerythritol esters; diol dimer and diacid dimer esters; optionally, esterified on their (their) function (s) alcohol (s) or acid (s) free (s) by acid radicals or alcohols, especially dimer dilinoleate esters; such esters may be chosen in particular from the following NCI nomenclature esters: bis-behenyl / isostearyl / phytosteryl dimerdilinoleyl dimerdilinoleate (Plandool G), phytosteryl isostearyl dimerdilinoleate (Lusplan PI-DA, Lusplan PHY / IS-DA), phytosteryl / isosteryl / cetyl / stearyl / behenyl dimerdilinoleate (Plandool H or Plandool S) and mixtures thereof, - mango butter, such as that sold under the reference Lipex 203 by the company Aharhuskarlshamn, - hydrogenated soybean oil, hydrogenated coconut oil, hydrogenated rapeseed oil, mixtures of hydrogenated vegetable oils such as the mixture of hydrogenated vegetable oil of soybean, coconut, palm and rapeseed, for example the mixture marketed under the reference Akogel® by the AARHUSKARLSHAMN company (INCI name Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil), - Shea butter, in particular the one whose INCI name is Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, such as that marketed or the Sheasoft® reference by the company AARHUSKARLSHAMN, cocoa butter, in particular that sold under the name CT COCOA BUTTER DEODORIZED by the company DUTCH COCOA BV or that marketed under the name BUTTER OF COCOA NCB HD703 758 by BARRY CALLEBAUT; shorea butter, in particular that marketed under the name DUB SHOREA® by STEARINERIE DUBOIS; And their mixtures. According to a preferred embodiment, the pasty fatty substance is chosen from shea butter, cocoa butter, shorea butter, a mixture of hydrogenated vegetable oils of soya, coconut, palm and rapeseed, and their mixtures, and more particularly those referenced above. The waxes considered in the context of the present invention are generally lipophilic, solid, deformable or non-deformable compounds, at room temperature (25 ° C.), with reversible solid / liquid state change, having a point melting point greater than or equal to 30 ° C up to 200 ° C and especially up to 120 ° C. By carrying one or more waxes, according to the invention, in the liquid state (melting), it is possible to make them or to be miscible with one or more oils and to form a mixture of wax (es) and oil. (S), macroscopically homogeneous, but by bringing the temperature of said mixture to room temperature, recrystallization of the wax (es) in the oil (s) of the mixture is obtained. For the purposes of the invention, the melting temperature corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed in thermal analysis (DSC) as described in ISO 11357-3; 1999. The melting point of the wax can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name "MDSC 2920" by the company TA Instruments. The measurement protocol is as follows: A sample of 5 mg of wax, placed in a crucible, is subjected to a first temperature rise ranging from -20 ° C to 100 ° C, at the heating rate of 10 ° C / minute, then is cooled from 100 ° C to - 20 ° C at a cooling rate of 10 ° C / minute and finally is subjected to a second temperature rise from - 20 ° C to 100 ° C at a heating rate 5 ° C / minute. During the second temperature rise, the variation of the power difference absorbed by the empty crucible and the crucible containing the wax sample as a function of temperature is measured. The melting point of the compound is the value of the temperature corresponding to the peak apex of the curve representing the variation of the difference in power absorbed as a function of the temperature. The waxes that may be used in a composition according to the invention are chosen from waxes, solid at room temperature, of animal, vegetable, mineral or synthetic origin, and mixtures thereof. They can be hydrocarbon, fluorinated and / or silicone.

As examples, mention may be made of hydrocarbon-based waxes, such as natural beeswax (or bleached beeswax), synthetic beeswax, carnauba wax, and rice bran wax such as that marketed under the reference NC 1720 by the company CERA RICA NODA, the Candellila wax such as that marketed under the reference SP 75 G by the company STRAHL & PITSCH, microcrystalline waxes such as microcrystalline waxes whose melting point is greater than 85 ° C such as HI-MICO products 1070, 1080, 1090 and 3080 marketed by the company NIPPON SEIRO, ceresins or ozokerites such as isoparaffins whose melting point is below 40 ° C such as EMW-0003 product marketed by the company NIPPON SEIRO, α-olefin oligomers such as PERFORMA V® 825, 103 and 260 polymers marketed by NEW PHASE TECHNOLOGIES; ethylene-propylene copolymers such as PERFORMALENE® EP 700, polyethylene waxes (preferably of molecular weight between 400 and 600), Fischer-Tropsch waxes, sunflower seed wax marketed by KOSTER KEUNEN under the reference sunflower wax.

Mention may also be made of silicone waxes such as alkyl or alkoxy dimethicone having from 16 to 45 carbon atoms, and fluorinated waxes. According to a particular embodiment, the wax used in a composition according to the invention has a melting point greater than 35 ° C., better than 40 ° C. or even 45 ° C., or even 55 ° C.

According to a preferred embodiment, the wax or waxes are chosen from polymethylene waxes; silicone wax sold under the name DOW CORNING 2501 COSMETIC WAX by the company Dow Corning (INCI name: bis-peg-18 methyl ether dimethyl silane, beeswax, vegetable waxes such as carnauba wax; Polyglycerolated vegetable waxes (mimosa / jojoba / sunflower) (3 moles) marketed under the name HYDRACIRE S by the company Gattefosse, the hydrogenated castor oil marketed under the name Antisettle CVP by the Cray Valley company. in the fatty phase are, for example, fatty acids containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, such as stearic acid, lauric acid, palmitic acid and fatty alcohols having from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, such as stearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol and mixtures thereof (cetearyl alcohol) The fatty phase may also contain other compounds solubilized in oils such as gelling and / or structuring agents These compounds may especially be chosen from gums such as silicone gums (dimethiconol); silicone resins such as trifluoromethyl-C1-4-alkyldimethicone and trifluoropropyldimethicone, and silicone elastomers such as the products sold under the names "KSG" by the company ShinEtsu, under the name "Trefil" by the company Dow Corning or under the names "Gransil" by the company Grant Industries; and their mixtures. These fatty substances may be chosen in a varied manner by those skilled in the art in order to prepare a composition having the desired properties, for example of consistency or texture. According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises at least one solid fatty substance, in particular a wax.

Aqueous Phase When the composition according to the invention is in the form of an emulsion, the aqueous phase comprises at least water. According to the dosage form of the composition, the amount of aqueous phase can range from 0.1 to 99% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 98% by weight, more preferably from 30 to 95% by weight, and even more preferably from 40 to 95% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. This amount depends on the dosage form of the desired composition. The amount of water may represent all or part of the aqueous phase, and it is generally at least 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably at least 50% by weight, better still at least 60% by weight. % in weight. The aqueous phase may comprise at least one hydrophilic solvent such as, for example, substantially linear or branched lower monoalcohols having from 1 to 8 carbon atoms, such as ethanol, propanol, butanol, isopropanol or isobutanol; polyols such as propylene glycol, isoprene glycol, butylene glycol, propylene glycol, glycerol, sorbitol, polyethylene glycols and their derivatives, and mixtures thereof.

The emulsions generally contain at least one emulsifier chosen from amphoteric, anionic, cationic or nonionic emulsifiers, used alone or as a mixture. The emulsifiers are suitably selected according to the emulsion to be obtained (W / O or O / W). The emulsifiers are generally present in the composition, in a proportion of active material ranging from 0.1 to 30% by weight, and preferably from 0.2 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. For the W / O emulsions, examples of emulsifiers that may be mentioned include dimethicone copolyols such as the mixture of cyclomethicone and dimethicone copolyol, sold under the name "DC 5225 C" by the company Dow Corning, the PEG-10 oxyethylenated dimethylsiloxane DIMETHICONE marketed under the name KF 60117 by the company Shin Etsu, alkyl dimethicone copolyols such as Laurylmethicone copolyol sold under the name "Dow Corning 5200 Formulation Aid" by the company Dow Corning and Cetyl dimethicone copolyol sold under the name ABIL EM 90R by the company Goldschmidt, or the 4-polyglyceryl isostearate / cetyl dimethicone copolyol / hexyllaurate mixture sold under the name ABIL VVE 09 by Goldschmidt. One or more co-emulsifiers can also be added. Advantageously, the co-emulsifier may be chosen from the group comprising the alkylated polyol esters. As alkylated esters of polyol, mention may in particular be made of glycerol and / or sorbitan esters and for example polyglyceryl isostearate, such as the product sold under the name Isolan GI 34 by the company Goldschmidt, sorbitan isostearate, such as the product sold under the name Arlacel 987 by ICI, sorbitan isostearate and glycerol, such as the product sold under the name Arlacel 986 by the company ICI, and mixtures thereof. For the O / W emulsions, mention may be made, for example, as emulsifiers, of nonionic surfactants, and in particular saturated or unsaturated chain fatty acid and polyol esters containing, for example, from 8 to 24 carbon atoms and preferably from 12 to 24 carbon atoms. at 22 carbon atoms, and their oxyalkylenated derivatives, that is to say containing oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylene units, such as esters of glyceryl and of C 8 -C 24 fatty acid, and their oxyalkylenated derivatives; esters of polyethylene glycol and of C8-C24 fatty acid, and their oxyalkylenated derivatives; esters of sorbitol and of C8-C24 fatty acid, and their oxyalkylenated derivatives; and their oxyalkylenated derivatives; fatty alcohol ethers; sugar ethers and C8-C24 fatty alcohols, and mixtures thereof.

As glyceryl ester and fatty acid, there may be mentioned glyceryl stearate (mono-, di- and / or glyceryl tri-stearate) (CTFA name: glyceryl stearate) or glyceryl ricinoleate, and mixtures thereof. Examples of polyethylene glycol and fatty acid esters that may be mentioned include polyethylene glycol stearate (mono-, di- and / or tri-stearate of polyethylene glycol), and more especially polyethylene glycol 50 OE monostearate (CTFA name). PEG-50 stearate), polyethylene glycol 100 OE monostearate (CTFA name: PEG-100 stearate and mixtures thereof) Mixtures of these surfactants, such as, for example, the product containing Glyceryl stearate and PEG-100 can also be used. stearate, sold under the name Arlacel 165 by the company Uniqema, and the product containing Glyceryl stearate (glyceryl mono-distearate) and potassium stearate, sold under the name Tegin by the company Goldschmidt (CTFA name: glyceryl stearate SE) As fatty alcohol ethers, mention may be made, for example, of ethers of polyethylene glycol and of fatty alcohol containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, and especially from 10 to 22 carbon atoms, and such as ethers of polyethylene glycol and of cetyl, stearyl and cetearyl alcohols (mixture of cetyl and stearyl alcohols). For example, ethers comprising from 1 to 200 and preferably from 2 to 100 oxyethylenated groups, such as CTFA Ceteareth-20, Ceteareth-30, and mixtures thereof, may be mentioned. Mention may be made, by way of examples of mono or polyalkyl esters or sugar ethers, of the methylglucose isostearate sold under the name Isolan-IS by the company Degussa Goldschmidt or the sucrose distearate sold under the name Crodesta F50 by the company Croda. and the sucrose stearate sold under the name Ryoto sugar ester S 1570 by Mitsubishi Kagaku Foods. Mention may also be made of lipoamino acids and their salts, such as mono- and di-sodium acylglutamates, for instance mono-sodium stearoyl glutamate sold under the name Amisoft HS-11PF and disodium stearoyl glutamate sold under the name Amisoft HS-21P by the name Ajinomoto company.

In known manner, all the compositions of the invention may contain one or more of the usual adjuvants in the cosmetic and dermatological fields, gelling agents and / or hydrophilic or lipophilic thickeners; moisturizing agents; emollients; hydrophilic or lipophilic active agents; anti-free radical agents; sequestering agents; antioxidants; conservatives; alkanizing or acidifying agents; perfumes ; film-forming agents; charges ; and their mixtures.

The amounts of these various adjuvants are those conventionally used in the fields under consideration. In particular, the amounts of active agents vary according to the desired objective and are those conventionally used in the fields under consideration, and for example from 0.1 to 20%, and preferably from 0.5 to 10% by weight of the total weight of the composition.

Active ingredients As an example of an active ingredient, and in a nonlimiting manner, ascorbic acid and its derivatives such as 5,6-di-O-dimethylsilylascorbate (sold by the company Exsymol under the reference PRO-AA ), the potassium salt of dl-alpha-tocopheryl-21-ascorbyl-phosphate (sold by Senju Pharmaceutical under the reference SEPIVITAL EPC), magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, sodium ascorbyl phosphate (sold by the Company Roche under the reference Stay-C 50); phloroglucinol; enzymes; and their mixtures. Among the hydrophilic active agents that are sensitive to oxidation, ascorbic acid is used according to a preferred embodiment of the invention. Ascorbic acid can be of any kind. Thus, it can be of natural origin in powder form or in the form of preferably concentrated orange juice. It can also be of synthetic origin, preferably in powder form. Other active agents which may be used in the composition of the invention include, for example, moisturizing agents such as protein hydrolysates and polyols such as glycerine, glycols, for instance polyethylene glycols; natural extracts; anti-inflammatories; procyannidol oligomers; vitamins such as vitamin A (retinol), vitamin E (tocopherol), vitamin B5 (panthenol), vitamin B3 (niacinamide), derivatives of these vitamins (especially esters) and mixtures thereof; urea; caffeine; depigmenting agents such as kojic acid, hydroquinone and caffeic acid; salicylic acid and its derivatives; alpha-hydroxy acids such as lactic acid and glycolic acid and their derivatives; retinoids such as carotenoids and vitamin A derivatives; hydrocortisone; melatonin; extracts of algae, mushrooms, vegetables, yeasts, bacteria; steroids; antibacterial active agents such as 2,4,4'-trichloro-2'-hydroxy diphenyl ether (or triclosan), 3,4,4'-trichlorocarbanilide (or triclocarban) and the acids indicated above and in particular the acid salicylic acid and its derivatives; mattifying agents such as fibers; tensors; UV filters, and in particular organic UV filters; and their mixtures. Of course, one skilled in the art will take care to choose the optional adjuvant (s) added to the composition according to the invention in such a way that the advantageous properties intrinsically attached to the composition according to the invention are not, or substantially not , altered by the envisaged addition.

The examples which follow will make it possible to better understand the invention, without however being limiting in nature. The quantities indicated are in% by weight of raw material, unless otherwise indicated. The names of the compounds are indicated in INCI names.

EXAMPLES The absorption rate is evaluated by a panel of 8 experts trained in the description of care products. The sensory evaluation is carried out as follows: 0.05 ml of product is applied on the top of the hand and the time necessary for the total penetration of the product is evaluated. The absorption rate is noted on a 4-level scale: very slow, medium, fast, very fast.

Nutritious balm for mature skin The following compositions have been prepared. A (comparative) B (invention) AQUA QSP 100 QSP 100 Preservative (s) 0.25 0.25 GLYCERIN 7 7 B BEHENYL ALCOHOL (and) GLYCERYL 3 3 STEARATE (and) DISODIUM ETHYLENE DICOCAMIDE PEG-15 DISULFATE (and) GLYCERYL STEARATE CITRATE (Sasol Ceralution H) I sononyl isononanoate 5 POLY C10-30 ALKYL ACRYLATE (AIR PRODUCTS 'Intelimer IPA 13-1) 2 2 Penthaeryrtrityl tetra isostearate 2 2 Hydrogenated polyisobutene 4 4 cetearyl ethylhexanoate (and) isopropyl 5 5 myristate Synthetic wax 4 4 Carnauba wax 2 2 Caprylyl methicone 1.5 1.5 DIMETHICONE (and) DIMETHICONOL 2 2 (MIRASIL D-DML LV from BLUESTAR) STEARETH-20 1 1 C AMMONIUM POLYACRYLOYLDIMETHYL 0.5 0.5 TAURATE (Hostacerin AMPS ® Clariant) XANTHAN GUM 0.25 0.25 DIMETHICONE 2 2 (XIAMETER PMX-200 SILICONE FLUID 5CS from Dow Corning) D SILICALATE SILICA - 1 (DOW CORNING AEROGEL VM2270) E SILICA 3 3 (SB 700 from Miyoshi kasei) Manufacturing process Homogenize phase A by heating at 80 ° C; Melt phase B in a water bath and homogenize; Form the emulsion by adding phase B in phase A at 75 ° C with stirring; Add phase C with stirring; Cool with gentle stirring and add D and E at 25 ° C. Comparative Evaluation Results A (Comparative) B (Invention) Speed 7/8 Experts Considered Penetration Slow, 7/8 Experts Judged Absorption As FAST 1/8 Absorption As Very Slow 1/8 Expert l In conclusion, the composition B according to the invention is absorbed more rapidly than the comparative composition A. Anti-Aging Smoothing Butter The following compositions have been prepared. C (Comparative) D (Invention) A AQUA QSP 100 QSP 100 10 5 Preservatives 0.25 0.25 GLYCERIN 7 7 Methoxy B methoxylated dimethylsiloxane (160E) B BEHENYL ALCOHOL (and) GLYCERYL STEARATE (and) DISODIUM ETHYLENE DICOCAMIDE PEG-3 3 DISULFATE (and) GLYCERYL STEARATE CITRATE (Sasol Ceralution H) ISOHEXADECANE 12 12 POLY C10-30 ALKYL ACRYLATE (AIR PRODUCTS 'Intelimer IPA 13-1) 2 2 Hexadecylelaurate and Hexyldecanol 3 3 BEESWAX 3 3 Synthetic wax 6 6 Carnauba wax 0.75 0.75 WAX 5 5 C AMMONIUM POLYACRYRYLYLDIMETHYL 1 1 TAURATE (Hostacerin AMPS® from Clariant) XANTHAN GUM 0.25 0.25 DI M ETH ICON E 3.5 1 (XIAMETER PMX-200 SILICONE FLUID 5CS Dow Corning) D SILICA SI LYLATE - 0.8 (DOWCORNING AEROGEL VM2270) E ALUMINUM STARCH OCTENYLSUCCINATE (dry flow from AKZO NOBEL) 3 3 Manufacturing process Homogenize phase A by heating at 80 ° C; Melt phase B in a water bath and homogenize; Form the emulsion by adding phase B in phase A at 75 ° C with stirring; Add phase C with stirring; Cool with gentle stirring and add D and E at 25 ° C. Results of Comparative Evaluation 10 C (Comparative) D (Invention) Speed 8/8 Experts Considered Very Slow Penetration 4/8 Experts Judged Absorption as FAST Absorption 4/8 Experts Judged It as AVERAGE In In conclusion, the composition D according to the invention is absorbed more rapidly than the comparative composition C.

SPF15 Moisturizing Day Fluid The following compositions were prepared. E (comparative) F (Invention) A AQUA QSP 100 QSP 100 Preservatives 0.25 0.25 GLYCERIN 7 7 XANTHAN GUM 0.2 0.2 B BEHENYL ALCOHOL (and) GLYCERYL 3 3 STEARATE (and) DISODIUM ETHYLENE DICOCAMIDE PEG- DISULFATE (and) GLYCERYL STEARATE CITRATE (Sasol Ceralution H) I sohexadecane 6 6 POLY C10-30 ALKYL ACRYLATE (AIR PRODUCTS 'Intelimer IPA 13-1) 2 2 UV Filter (s) 9 9 C AMMONIUM POLYACRYLOYLDIMETHYL 0.5 0 , 5 TAU RATE (Hostacerin AMPS® from Clariant) ALUMINUM STARCH OCTENYLSUCCINATE (dry flow from AKZO NOBEL) 3 3 E SILICA SI LYLATE 1 (AEROGEL VM2270 from Dow Corning) Production method: - Homogenize phase A by heating at 80 ° C C; - Melt phase B in a water bath and homogenize; - Form the emulsion by adding phase B in phase A at 75 ° C with stirring; - Add phase C with stirring; - Cool with gentle stirring and add the D and E charges at 25 ° C. Results of Comparative Evaluation E (Comparative) F (Invention) Speed 7/8 Experts Considered Penetration AVERAGE 6/8 Experts Judged Absorption AS RAPID Absorption 1/8 expert considered the 2/8 experts have In conclusion, the composition F according to the invention is absorbed more rapidly than the comparative composition E.

Claims (16)

REVENDICATIONS1. Composition for topical application comprising: - hydrophobic silica airgel particles having a specific surface per unit mass (Sm) ranging from 500 to 1500 m 2 / g, preferably from 600 to 1200 m 2 / g, and better still from 600 to 800 m2 / g, and a size expressed in volume mean diameter (D [0.5]) ranging from 1 to 1500 μm, preferably from 1 to 1000 μm, even more preferably from 1 to 100 μm, in particular from 1 to at 30 μm, more preferably from 5 to 25 μm, more preferably from 5 to 20 μm and most preferably from 5 to 15 μm; at least one semicrystalline polymer which is solid at ambient temperature and has a melting temperature of less than 70 ° C., comprising a) a polymer backbone and b) at least one crystallizable side organic chain and / or a crystallizable organic block forming part of the backbone of said polymer, said polymer having a number average molecular weight greater than or equal to 2,000; and - at least one fatty phase. 2. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the hydrophobic silica airgel particles have a specific surface area per unit volume Sv ranging from 5 to 60 m 2 / cm 3, preferably from 10 to 50 m 2 / cm 3 and better still from 15 to 40 m 2. m2 / cm3 and / or an oil absorption capacity measured with WET POINT ranging from 5 to 18 ml / g of particles, preferably from 6 to 15 ml / g and better still from 8 to 12 ml / g. 3. Composition according to any one of claims 1 and 2 wherein the hydrophobic silica airgel particles are trimethylsiloxylated silica particles. 25 4. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3 wherein the hydrophobic silica airgel particles are present in an active material content ranging from 0.1 to 15% by weight, preferably from 1 to 10% by weight. weight, preferably from 1 to 5% by weight, more preferably from 1 to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. 5. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4 wherein the one or more semi-crystalline polymers have a number average molecular weight ranging from 3,000 to 500,000, and more preferably from 4,000 to 99,000. 6. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5 wherein the one or more semi-crystalline polymers are soluble in the fatty phase to at least 1% by weight at a temperature above its melting temperature. 7. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6 wherein the semi-crystalline polymer (s) have a melting temperature pF such that 30 ° C pF <50 ° C. 8. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7 wherein the one or more semi-crystalline polymers are chosen from: - block copolymers of polyolefins with controlled crystallization; aliphatic or aromatic polyester polycondensates and aliphatic / aromatic copolyesters; homopolymers or copolymers bearing at least one crystallizable side chain, and homopolymers or copolymers carrying, in the backbone, at least one crystallizable block; homopolymers or copolymers bearing at least one crystallizable side chain with fluorinated group (s); - and their mixtures. 9. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8 wherein the one or more semi-crystalline polymers are chosen from homopolymers and copolymers comprising from 50 to 100% by weight of units resulting from the polymerization of one or more monomers. hydrophobic side chain (s) carrier (s) crystallizable (s). 10. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9 wherein the one or more semi-crystalline polymers are chosen from homopolymers and copolymers resulting from the polymerization of at least one crystallizable chain monomer chosen from (meth) acrylates. C14-C24 saturated alkyl, C11-C15 perfluoroalkyl (meth) acrylates, C14-C24 N alkyl (meth) acrylamides with or without fluorine atom, vinyl esters with C14-C24 alkyl or perfluoroalkyl chains C 14 to C 24 alkyl chain or perfluoroalkyl vinyl ethers, C 14 to C 24 alpha olefins, para-alkyl styrenes having an alkyl group having from 12 to 24 carbon atoms, and mixtures thereof. 11. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 10 wherein the one or more semi-crystalline polymers are chosen from homopolymers of alkyl (meth) acrylate or alkyl (meth) acrylamide C14 to 024; copolymers of these monomers with a hydrophilic monomer; and their mixtures. 12. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 11 wherein the one or more semi-crystalline polymers are chosen from copolymers of alkyl (meth) acrylate or alkyl (meth) acrylamide with a C14 to C24 alkyl group. with N-vinylpyrrolidone, hydroxyethyl (meth) acrylate; or their mixtures. 13. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 12 wherein the one or more semi-crystalline polymers may be present in the composition in an amount of active material ranging from 0.1 to 12% by weight, preferably from 1 to 12% by weight. 6% by weight, and more preferably 1 to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. 14. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 13 comprising at least one solid fatty substance, in particular a wax. 15. Process for the cosmetic treatment of a keratinous material in which a cosmetic composition as defined in any one of Claims 1 to 14 is applied to the keratinous material. 16. Use of a cosmetic composition as defined in any one of claims 1 to 14 in the cosmetic or dermatological field, and in particular for the care, protection and / or makeup of the skin of the body or face , or for hair care. .