FR2892302A1 - Herbal agent as substitute for lanolin, obtained by hemi-synthesis of mixture of e.g. (un)saturated fatty acids and a compound comprising hydroxyl groups like glycerol, useful e.g. as soaps and antiperspirant e.g. skin and hair care - Google Patents

Abstract

100% Herbal agent, which is a substitute for lanolin, obtained by a hemi-synthesis of a mixture of saturated and/or unsaturated fatty acids, fatty acid esters, hydrocarbon or its derivatives and a compound comprising/generating hydroxyl functional groups like glycerol in which synthesis preferably takes place in an oxygen medium in the absence of a catalyst, where the agent has a bi-functional activity i.e. moisturizing activity for the surface and all the internal layers of the skin and anti-aging activity. An independent claim is included for cosmetological, dermatological, pharmaceutical and veterinary compositions comprising the agent.

Description

New moisturizing and anti-aging applications of a lanolin substitute

  100% vegetable, and adapted compositions containing it. Technical sector of the invention and problem posed:

  10 Beauty care is one of humanity's most consistent concerns throughout the ages.

  The skin does not escape the overall process of slowing down activity, with all the consequences on its appearance, its texture, its consistency and its functions. The age of an individual is revealed by his skin. At twenty, she is young, tense, smooth and brilliant. Later, it distends itself, relaxes, becomes dry, rough and gray. At the same time, the hairs and the hair become discolored, become rare and lose their undulations. As for the nails, they harden, thicken and become scaly. All these phenomena occur more or less quickly and more or less intensely according to the individuals.

  The increase in life expectancy, the desire to remain beautiful and seductive, to have healthy and young skin, have led dermatologists, cosmetologists and plastic surgeons to play an increasingly important role. Care products have continued to multiply, revealing a new cosmetology known as 'active' or 'cosmeceutical'. The skincare creams are becoming more and more efficient with the use of active ingredients, the purpose of which is to restore a disturbed physiological balance and / or to fight against skin aging.

  The active ingredients are moisturizing and film-forming products (urea, glycerol, macromolecules, etc.), anti-inflammatory, antipruritic (glycocolle) molecules, free radical scavengers (flavonoids, vitamins E, C and A, trace elements). , enzymatic systems ...) or substances that have proven effective in preventing skin aging (vitamin A, fruit acids, essential fatty acids ...).

  The applicant had succeeded in producing a lanolin substitute, 100% of vegetable origin. The method of manufacture of this product is described in the patent applications FR 01 08905 and 02 16742 filed by the same applicant. This lanolin substitute was used for the known properties of lanolin, ie emollient, moisturizing, occlusive and co-emulsifying (ability to absorb up to at least twice its weight in water), allowing it to 45 enter the composition of many preparations, among other cosmetic and dermatological Summary of the invention:

  The applicant has now discovered that in general this active ingredient, 100% of plant origin, has surprising properties that is 5 both moisturizing on all layers of the epidermis and anti-aging.

  Indeed, this active ingredient, previously used as co-emulsifier in substitution of lanolin and its derivatives, has surprisingly other remarkable properties: 10 - It significantly reduces the number of fine lines and the total wrinkled surface, giving an immediate smoothing effect; - It moisturizes all layers of the epidermis. This opens the way for new applications and new compositions 15 allowing these applications, especially in cosmetics, dermatology, pharmacy, veterinary.

  Prior art: 20 El What is the skin? The skin (4kg for an individual weighing 70kg), consists of 3 elements: 1- The epidermis: it is part of the so-called epithelial coating tissues. Its average thickness is 0.1 mm. It contains many associated elements, called appendices: they are the hairs, the hair, the nails, the sweat glands and sebaceous. The most numerous cells are the keratinocytes, which contribute to the development of the horny layer of protection. 2- Dermis: it belongs to the family of supportive tissues, called connective tissues (as well as bone and cartilage). It's the solid part of the skin. Its thickness is proportionally 10 to 40 times greater than that of the epidermis. It contains cells, the fibroblasts which secrete the fundamental substance (rich in water, ions, proteins and mucopolysaccharides) as well as the fibers which constitute it (collagen fibers and elastic fibers formed from elastin and microfibrils). It is in the connective tissue that the blood vessels bring blood and nutrients, and the nervous threads bloom. 3- The hypodermis: it is also part of the connective tissues. This is the deepest part of the skin that will give birth to fat cells or adipocytes. It is mainly used to store the reserves that are lipids, fat body where the body draws in case of insufficient food intake or increased energy need. 45 The skin is not just a membrane. It represents a vital organ with several functions associated with it: protection against external aggression, exchanges with the environment, thermoregulation, sensory function, metabolic function and immune function. The skin does not escape the overall process of slowing down activity, with all its consequences on its appearance, texture, consistency and functions. - aging of the skin

  Unfortunately, the signs of degradation occur and cause rapid changes: Appearance of fine lines, small epidermal breaks affecting the skin, very fine. Appearance of deeper wrinkles that affect the middle and deep dermis. Appearance of furrows, even deeper touching the epidermis, the dermis and the hypodermis. Drying of the horny layer by dehydration, depletion of the hydrolipidic film, and / or keratinization disorder (slowing of the renewal of the horn cells). After 60 years, the water content decreases by 10%. Loss of elasticity Decrease in the number of melanocytes (10-20% every 10 years) Decrease of sebaceous and sweat secretions ...

  Heredity, and external events that the body undergoes such as the sun, alcohol, free radicals, social life are all factors influencing skin aging.

  how to fight against skin aging? A wide range of treatments exist to approach the elixir of youth:

  Cosmetics: their actions are limited to the most superficial layer, ie the epidermis (otherwise the regulation is strict and approaches that of the drug). They contain active ingredients such as vitamin E, provitamin A, vitamin C, selenium, vitamin A, alpha - hydroxy acids AHA, lipoic acid, urea, glycerol, collagen, elastin, hyaluronic acid, lycopene, polyphenols, flavonoides, pyrroloquinoline quinone PQQ, glutathione reductase, nicotinamide and derivatives, calcium salt of the carboxylic acid of LPyrrolidone L-PCA, calcium and derivatives. 2- prescription drugs: use of hormone replacement therapy at the time of menopause. 3- Aesthetic surgery: these are true correction techniques a. Injections of heterologous / autologous collagen, fat, silicone, Artéplast, hyaluronic acid, Gore-Tex ... b. Abrasion techniques 15 20 30

  vs. Superficial peels (resorcinol, trichloroacetic acid 20-30%, glycolic acid), medium depth (trichloroacetic acid 35-50%), deep (phenol) d. Botulinum toxin e. Facelifts against cutaneous excesses

  cosmetics and active ingredients Dermatologists and cosmetologists are constantly working to offer the best possible aging. The list of patents cited below testifies to the popularity of research in this field in recent years: US20030091665, US20030083380, US20020110604, EP 0919223, US20020176903, US20030091666, US6,514,507, US6,284,233, US6,436,416, US6,224,850, US20050154066, US20020034527, US10 / 223,671, US10 / 265,000, US20020048798, US5,709,868 ... All these patents refer to ingredients, complexes or compositions, active in the fight against aging. However, these products are absorbed rapidly in the deep layers, not providing a protective effect on the surface.

  The solution of grafting assets by chemical bonding to the surface of the skin to prolong the surface activity of the asset has been envisaged (US20030003119, US20020172698). Nevertheless, it requires the use of irritant, allergenic or even mutagenic active agents (eg alkylating agents, diazonium salts, anhydrides, acylating agents, etc.).

  Patent US20050048008 describes an anti-aging complex consisting of an extracellular antioxidant (eg quaternary ammonium derivatives), an intracellular antioxidant (phenols, polyphenols, carotenoids, flavonoids, anthocyanins, xanthone, disulfides). ...), an anti-inflammatory agent (steroids, terpenes, alkaloids, essential oils, analgesics ...), collagen or substitutes, and a vector (emulsions, suspensions ...). It provides a solution to the problem of controlled penetration of the active through the different layers of the skin. Nevertheless, it involves synthetic ingredients, cationic, sources of skin irritation if they are used alone.

Technical problem :

  The problem was to discover compositions or products having anti-aging properties and as far as possible moisturizing having more activities improved.

  The prior art does not mention an anti-aging effect of lanolin and / or derivatives. It would have been logical for the product of the present application, a lanolin substitute that is 100% vegetable, to be the same.

  For hydration, the test usually performed is TEWL (Trans epidermal water-loss) which shows the effectiveness of a product to retain water (avoid evaporation of water). This is an occlusive effect. In the case of the present application, the moisturizing power of a product and this, on the different layers of the epidermis is tested using a method developed and patented by Dermscan, under hydrascan.

  Surprisingly, the present invention relates to a lanolin substitute which despite its size, acts not only on the surface but also on the other inner layers of the epidermis. Lanolin was known for its moisturizing effect, but the present invention provides a crucial improvement which is that hydration reaches both the surface of the epidermis and all its inner layers.

Description of the invention

  The applicant has surprisingly discovered moisturizing applications on all the layers of the epidermis and more anti-aging of a lanolin substitute, 100% of plant origin, the method of manufacture of which is described in the patent applications. FR 01 08905 and 02 16742 filed by this same applicant.

  Indeed, this active ingredient, previously used as co-emulsifier in substitution of lanolin and its derivatives, has surprisingly other remarkable properties: It significantly reduces the number of fine lines and the total wrinkled surface, giving a immediate smoothing effect; - It moisturizes all layers of the epidermis.

  This opens the way to new applications and new compositions allowing these applications, especially in cosmetics, dermatology, pharmacy, veterinary.

  method for obtaining this active principle This active principle is obtained by hemi-synthesis from a mixture of saturated and / or unsaturated fatty acids, saturated and / or unsaturated fatty acid esters, saturated hydrocarbons and / or unsaturated or saturated and / or unsaturated derivatives thereof and compounds containing or generating hydroxyl functions, such as glycerol, preferably without catalyst and in an oxygen-free atmosphere.

  The reactions involved are the following: the polymerization of unsaturated fatty acids, unsaturated fatty acid esters, unsaturated hydrocarbons, unsaturated derivatives of these compounds, alone or as a mixture. This process is described in patent application FR 98 13770 and PCT patent application WO 00/26265 (PCT / FR99 / 02646) to which the person skilled in the art can refer to - the transesterification between the reagents comprising or generating hydroxyl functions, called 'OH' reactants and saturated and / or unsaturated fatty acid esters esterification between the reagents comprising or generating hydroxyl functions, called 'OH' reagents and saturated and / or unsaturated fatty acids

  The method of manufacture of this product is described in the patent applications FR 01 08905 and 02 16742 filed by the same applicant.

  The heat treatment is carried out by subjecting the reagents to conventional heating or dielectric as described in patent applications FR 98 13770 and PCT WO 00/26265 (PCT / FR99 / 02646) filed by the Applicant and concerning an original dielectric heating process . anti-aging property of this active ingredient The anti-wrinkle study was carried out: - by analyzing the cutaneous relief of volunteers thanks to the Skin Image Analyzer device and its Quantirides - Monaderm software (Dermscan laboratories, Lyon, France). taking macro-photos by questioning the volunteers about the observed effects and sensations.

  The Skin Image Analyzer test consists of making impressions of the studied area on a silicone polymer and projecting oblique light rays (35) onto these impressions, thus creating shadows that are more or less dark depending on the presence or absence of fine lines and wrinkles. These shadows are then interpreted by a digital camera and its associated software and are transcribed in number and depth of fine lines, - in number and depth of average wrinkles in number and depth of deep wrinkles, 35 - in total wrinkled surface

  2 μl / cm 2 of two emulsions were applied to volunteers' goose pasta, aged between 49 and 65: Aldivia emulsion X3083: without the active ingredient of the present application (placebo) Aldivia emulsion X3084: with the active ingredient of the present application 10 15 45 The formula of these emulsions appears in the following table: Phase Name INCI name French translation Aldivia Aldivia s commercial X3063 X3064 A water water 76.5 71.5% structure Potato starch Modified starch 2 2 solanace modified B Principle Active Oleic / linoleic / linol Polyglycerides of oleic acids, 0 5 linoleic enic, caprylic linolenic / caprylic capric / capric Caprylic acid triglycerides, 15 15 TG Cap nic Triglycerides nafol 1618 Cetearyl alcohol Hexadecanol mixture 1 & octadecanol 1 2 2 arlacel 165 Glycerol Mixture of glycerol stearate & monostearate & stearate PEG 100 (polyethylene glycol) 4 4 polyoxethylene stearate blend C DMDMH preservative 0,5 0,5 The results obtained s have collected in the table below: Test Aldivia X3063 Aldivia X3064 Number of fine lines 1h - 15% -35% Number of fine lines 2h -13% -15% Total wrinkled area -13% -27% Note: The prints were made at t = 0.1 h, 2h after the application of the creams.

  The questionnaire given to the volunteers shows the positive effects felt: 10 reduction of wrinkles, hydration, comfort, smoothing effect, softness.

  Conclusion: This 100% plant active ingredient significantly reduces the number of fine lines and the total wrinkled surface, giving an immediate smoothing effect. moisturizing property on all layers of the epidermis of this active ingredient

  The study of hydration was carried out by analyzing the hydration rate of the epidermis of volunteers using the Hydrascan apparatus (Dermscan laboratories, Lyon, France).

  The Hydrascan test makes it possible to visualize the 3 layers of the epidermis and to measure the respective hydration levels. The test consists in propagating a thermal wave through the skin via a probe. The heat transfer will differ depending on the degree of tissue moisture. The measurements are carried out under a controlled atmosphere: 24 2 C, relative humidity between 40 and 60%. 2pLIcm 2 of two emulsions were applied to the forearms of the volunteers, aged between 55 and 60 and whose moisture content at the cornometer did not exceed 5 OAU: Aldivia X3061 emulsion: without the active ingredient of the present application (placebo) Aldivia X3062 emulsion: with the active ingredient of the present application

  The formula of these emulsions appears in the following table: Phas Name Name Inci Aldivia Aldivia es commercial X3061 X3062 A Oil of Helianthus annus Oil of the species 15% 15% sunflower seed oil Helianthus Annus active principle Hydroxystearic / oleic / li Polyglycerides of acids 0% 5% nolenic polyglycerides hydroxysearic, oleic, linolenic B water water 79,85% 74,85% Arlatone 2121 Sorbitan stearate - Sorbitan Sterate & Cocoate 4% 4% Sucrose Cocoate Sugar Rhodicare T Xanthan gum xanthan gum 0,15% 0,15% C liquapar optimum conservative 1% 1% The results obtained are collated in the table below: Test Aldivia X3061 Aldivia X3062 Upper layers 3h -13% + 12% Median layers 3h +3 % + 10% All layers 3h + 2% + 6% Note: The measurements were carried out at t = 0.1 h, 3h after the application of the creams.

  Conclusion: This active ingredient, 100% vegetable, hydrates all layers of the epidermis, unlike known moisturizing agents, restrictive due to their limited hydration zone.

  Applications and compositions adapted to these applications The present invention is applicable to cosmetic, dermatological, pharmaceutical and veterinary applications. It can be: Skincare Nail care Hair care Make-up 30 This active ingredient can be used topically and can be used in all existing toiletries and make-up products: soaps, dermatological loaves, shampoos, bubble baths, skincare creams, shaving creams, sunscreen creams, milks, lotions, makeup removers, exfoliants, masks, emulsions, bath oils, antiperspirants, foundations, powders, varnishes, lipsticks , sticks, balms, ointments ... It can also enter the composition of capsules, capsules ... for oral use. It can be used in the formulations in proportions ranging from 0.001% to 50% based on the total composition. It may be used in the formulations in proportions ranging from 0.01% to 25%, preferably from 0.1% to 10% relative to the total weight of the composition. It can be used alone or mixed with other active ingredients, moisturizers and / or anti-aging. Synergies between active ingredients can be created and thus amplify the effect of the desired activity: complete hydration on all layers of the epidermis and anti-aging. It can also be used in admixture with other active ingredients, which can be film-forming, anti-inflammatory, anti-ruriginous, free radical scavengers.

  EXAMPLES As non-limiting examples, the applicant presents some cosmetic formulas where this new moisturizing / anti-aging active ingredient exerts its real power. Remarks: The active ingredient is marketed under the trademark Viamerine, filed by the applicant for this patent. 1- Anti-Aging Face Cream Inci Name French translation Name% commercial Phase A Caprylic / Capric Triglycerides Triglycerides of caprylic acids, capric 8 Sclerocarya Birrea Oil Oil of the species Sclerocarya Birrea Oil of 3 Marula Ximenia Americana Seed Oil Oil from species Ximenia Americana Oil of 3 Ximenia Simmondia Chinensis (Jojoba) Oil of the species Simmondia Oil of 2 Seed Oil Chinensis Jojoba Trichilia Emetica Seed Butter Butter from the species Trichilia Emetica Butter 2 Mafura Safflower Oil Polyglyceryl-6 Esters of Safflower Oil and Viatenza 1 Polyglycerol Esters 6 Safflower P06 Oleic / Linoleic / Linolenic Polyglycerides of Oleic Acids, Linoleic, Principle 0.75 Active Linolenic Polyglycerides Hydroxystearic / Linolenic / Oleic Polyglycerides of Hydroxysearic Acids, Principle 0.75 Polyglycerides oleic, active linoleic Cetearyl Alcohol and hexadecanol mixture 1 & octadecanol 1 3 Cocoglucoside and cocoglucoside Phase B Aqua Water Qs 100 Potato Starch Modified Modified starch 2 Phase C Preservative Preservative qs Cyclomethicone Cyclopolydimethylsiloxane 2 Perfume Fragrance qs 5 Procedure Heat phase A to 75 C Disperse the modified starch in phase B and heat to 75 C Add phase A to phase B and allow to cool with stirring. Add the phse C to 40 C. Adjust the pH 2-Shiny Shampoo Name Inci English French Trade Name Phase A Sodium Lauryl Sulphate Sodium Lauryl Sulfate 10 Cocamidopropylbetaine 10 Lauryl Glucoside 5 Oleic / Linoleic / Linolenic Polyglycerides Polyglycerides of Oleic Acids, Active Principle 0.2 linoleic, linolenic Schinziophyton Rautanenii Kernel Oil Oil of the species Oil of 0.1 Schinziophyton Rautanenii Mongongo Sclerocarya Birrea Oil Oil of the species Oil of 0.1 Sclerocarya Birrea Marula Apricot Kernel oil Polyglyceryl-10 Esters Esters Esters apricot kernel oil Viatenza 0.75 and polyglycerol 10. apricot P010 Argan Oil Polyglyceryl-6 Esters Argan oil and Viatenza argan esters 0.25 polyglycerol 6 P06 Phase B Aqua Water Qs 100 Phase C Preservative Preservative qs Sodium chloride Sodium chloride qs Perfume Fragrance qs Procedure Mix and heat phase A slightly Add phase B to phase A with stirring Add AC phase pH and Viscosity 3- Hydrating bath oil Nom Inci French name Trade name Phase A Apricot Kernel oil Apricot kernel oil esters and Viatenza apricot 10 Polyglyceryl-10 Polyglycerol esters 10 P010 Sclerocarya Birrea Oil Oil issue of the species Sclerocarya Birrea Oil of Marula 3 Schinziophyton Rautanenii Oil of the Schinziophyton species Oil of 3 Kernel Oil Rautanenii Mongongo Citrillus Lanatus Oil of the species Citrillus Lanatus of Melon oil 3 (Watermelon) Seed Oil Kalahari of Kalahari Oleic / Linoleic / Linolenic Polyglycerides of oleic acids, linoleic, active ingredient 0.3 Polyglycerides linolenic Olea Europaea (Olive) Fruit Oil of the species Olea Europaea Olive oil 25 Organic oil Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride Triglycerides of caprylic acids, caprique qs Tocopheryl Acetate Tocopheryl acetate 0.5 perfume Fragrance qs Procedure Mix all ingredients with stirring and heat slightly. 4- Moisturizing face cream Name inci French translation Name% commercial Phase A Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Organic oil of the species Oil of 6 Seed Oil Helianthus Annus organic oleic sunflower Sclerocarya Birrea Oil Oil of the species Sclerocarya Oil of Marula 2 Birrea Ximenia Americana Seed Oil Oil of the species Ximenia Oil of 2 Americana Ximenia Citrillus Lanatus (Watermelon) Oil of the species Citrillus Lanatus Melon oil 5 Seed Oil of the Kalahari Kalahari Macadamia Ternifolia Organic oil of the species Oil Macadamia Ternifolia Organic madacamia Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Extract of sunflower oil and centella Viazest 1 Seed Oil centella OS20S (and) Centella Asiatica Extract Oleic / Linoleic / Linolenic Polyglycerides of oleic acids, Active ingredient 2.5 Linoleic Polyglycerides, Linolenic Hydroxystearic / Linolenic / Oleic Acid Polyglycerides Active Ingredient 2.5 Polyglycerides hyd roxystearic, oleic, linolenic Glyceryl Stearate - PEG-100 Glycerol Stearate Stearate 2 Stearate Stearate PEG 100 (polyethylene glycol) Cetearyl Alcohol Hexadecanol Mix 1 & Octadecanol 2 1 Disodium EDTA Ethylenediaminetetraacetate 0.5 Phase B Aqua Water Bone 100 Carbomer Polyacrylic acid 0.2 5 glycerin glycerol 2 Phase C Preservative Preservative qs Rubus Idaeus (Raspberry) Oil from Rubus Idaeus Hule Seed 0.2 Seed Oil Raspberry Perfume Fragrance qs Procedure Mix phase A and heat at 75 ° C Disperse xanthan gum in phase B and heat to 75 ° C Add phase A to phase B and cool with stirring Add phase C at 40 ° C and adjust the pH - Hydrating face oil Name Inci English name Trade name Phase A Helianthus Annuus Organic Oil of the Species Sunflower Oil 31.5 (Sunflower) Seed Oil Helianthus Organic Oleic Annulus Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride Triglyc eras of caprylic acid, 27.5 cauliflower Sesamum Indicum (Sesame) Organic oil derived from the species Sesame oil 15 Seed Oil Sesamum Organic indicum Macadamia Ternifolia Organic oil derived from the species Madacamia oil 3 (Macadamia) Seed oil Macadamia Organic Ternifolia Sclerocarya Birrea Oil Oil of the species Marula oil 5 Sclerocarya Birrea Citrillus Lanatus Oil of the species Citrillus Melon oil of 3 (Watermelon) Seed Oil Kalahari lanatus Kalahari Adansonia Digitata Seed Oil Oil of the species Adansonia Baobab Oil 4 Digitata Marula oil Polyglyceryl-6 Marula oil esters and Viatenza marula P06 2 Polyglycerol esters 6 Olive Oil Polyglyceryl-6 Olive oil esters and Viatenza olive P06 8 Polyglycerol esters 6 Oleic / Linoleic / Linolenic Polyglycerides of Oleic Acids, Active Principle 0.5 Linoleic Polyglycerides, Linolenic Tocopheryl Acetate Tocopherol Acetate 0.5 Perfume Fragrance qs Procedure Mix all i with stirring and heat slightly. 6- Hydrating Massage Oil Name Inci French Translation Trade Name% Phase A Helianthus Annuus Organic Oil from Sunflower Oil 49.6 (Sunflower) Seed Oil Helianthus species Organic Oleic Annus Safflower Oil Polyglyceryl-6 Esters of Safflower Oil and Viatenza safflower 10 Polyglycerol Esters 6 P06 Sclerocarya Birrea ON Oil of the species Marula oil 3 Sclerocarya Birrea Schinziophyton Rautanenii Oil of the species Oil of Mongongo 3 Kernel Oil Schinziophyton Rautanenii Orbignya Oleifera (Babassu) Oil from the Orbignya species Babassu oil 27 Seed Oil Oleifera Trichilia Emetica Seed Butter Butter from the species Trichilia Mafura butter 2 Emetica Oleic / Linoleiç / Linolenic Polyglycerides of oleic acids, active ingredient 5 Linoleic polyglycerides, linolenic Tocopheryl Acetate Tocopherol acetate 0, 5 Perfume Fragrance qs Procedure Mix all ingredients with stirring and heat slightly. 12 - Sunscreen waterproof Name Inci English name Trade name% Phase A Aqua Water qs glycerin glycerol 1 Carbomer Polyacrylic acid 0,2 Phase B C12-C15 alkyl benzoate C12-C15 alkyl benzoate 2 Helianthus Annuus Oil of the species Oil Sunflower oil Seed Oil Helianthus Oleic annulus Sclerocarya Birrea Oil Oil of the species Marula oil 2 Sclerocarya Birrea Adansonia Digitata Seed Oil Oil of the species Baobab oil 3 Adansonia Digitata Prunus cerasus (bitter cherry) Oil issue of the species Prunus Cherry oil 1 seed oit cerasus Hydroxystearic / Linolenic / Olei Polyglucides of acids Active principle 5 c Polyglycerides hydroxystearic, oleic, linolenic Helianthus Annuus Extract of sunflower oil and Viazest calendula 1 (Sunflower) Seed Oil calendula OS30F (and) Officinalis Calendula Flower Extract Cetearyl Alcohol and Mixture of Hexadecanol 1 & 3 Cocoglucoside Octadecanol 1 and Cocoglucoside Cetearyl Alcohol Melan hexadecanol 1 & 2 octadecanol 1 Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate 3 Butyl 1- (4- (1,1-Dimethylethyl) phenyl) -3- 1 Methoxydibenzoylmethane (4-methoxyphenyl) propane-1,3-dione Phase C Preservative Preservative qs Cyclomethicone Cyclopolydimethylsiloxane 2 Perfume Perfume qs Procedure Disperse xanthan gum in phase A and heat to 75 C Mix phase B and heat to 75 C Add phase B to phase A and allow to cool with stirring 10 Add phase C to 40 C and adjust the PH 13

Claims (19)

  1- New agent, 100% vegetable lanolin substitute, obtained by semisynthesis from a mixture of saturated and / or unsaturated fatty acids, saturated and / or unsaturated fatty acid esters, hydrocarbons saturated and / or unsaturated or saturated and / or unsaturated derivatives of these and compounds containing or generating hydroxyl functions, such as glycerol, preferably without catalyst and in an oxygen-free atmosphere, characterized in that said application resides in a function of type, bi-active: moisturizing the surface AND all the inner layers of the epidermis, AND anti-aging.   2- Cosmetological, dermatological, pharmaceutical and veterinary compositions characterized in that they contain a suitable and effective amount of the active ingredient with bi-function: anti-aging, and moisturizing the surface and all the inner layers of the epidermis, lanolin substitute type as described in claim 1.   3- Cosmetic, dermatological, pharmaceutical and veterinary compositions according to claim 2, characterized in that they contain between 0.001% and 50% by weight of the active ingredient relative to the total weight of the composition.   4- Cosmetic, dermatological, pharmaceutical and veterinary compositions according to claim 2 or 3, characterized in that they contain between 0.01% and 25% by weight of the active ingredient relative to the total weight of the composition.   5- Cosmetic, dermatological, pharmaceutical and veterinary compositions according to any one of claims 2 to 4, characterized in that they contain between 0.1% and 10% by weight of the active ingredient relative to the total weight of the composition. 35   6- Cosmetic, dermatological, pharmaceutical and veterinary compositions according to any one of claims 2 to 5, characterized in that they contain a suitable and effective amount of the active ingredient bi-function: anti-aging, and moisturizing the surface and of all the inner layers of the epidermis, lanolin substitute type as described in claim 1, alone or in mixtures with other active ingredients, moisturizing and / or anti-aging and / or film-forming and / or anti -inflammatories, and / or antipruriginous and / or free radical scavengers (such as urea, glycerol, macromolecules, glycocolle, flavonoids, vitamins E, C and A, trace elements, enzymatic systems, essential fatty acids, provitamin A, selenium, alpha - hydroxylated acids AHA, lipoic acid, urea, glycerol, collagen, elastin, hyaluronic acid, lycopene, polyphenols, flavonoids, pyrroloquinoline quinone, glutathione reductase, nicotinamide and derivatives, calcium salt of the L-PCA L-pyrrolidone carboxylic acid, calcium and derivatives).   7- Cosmetic dermatological, pharmaceutical and veterinary compositions according to any one of claims 2 to 6 characterized in that they comprise 5% of said active ingredient and in that the hydration rate of the superficial layers of the epidermis increases by 12%. %, that of the median layers of 10% and that of the whole epidermis by 6%, 3h after the application.   8. Cosmetic dermatological, pharmaceutical and veterinary compositions according to any one of claims 2 to 7 characterized in that they comprise 5% of said active ingredient and that the number of fine lines decreases by 35% and the total wrinkled surface of 27% , 1 hour after application.   9- Cosmetic dermatological, pharmaceutical and veterinary compositions according to any one of claims 2 to 8 characterized in that they are in the form of an emulsion which contains: Phase Name INCI name Aldivia Aldivia commercial X3063 X3064 A water water 76.5 71.5% structure Potato starch Modified starch 2 2 solanace modified B Principle Active Oleic / linoleic / linole Polyglycerides of oleic acids, 0 5 copiccerides linoleic, linolenic caprylic / capric caprylic / capric Triglycerides of caprylic acids, Capillary Triglycerides nafol 1618 Cetearyl alcohol Hexadecanol mixture 1 & octadecanol 1 2 2 arlacel 165 Glycerol Glycerol stearate & monostearate & stearate mixture PEG 100 (polyethylene glycol) 4 4 polyoxethylene stearate blend C DMDMH preservative 0.5 0, 5 With the following results: Test Aldivia X3063 Aldivia X3064 Number of fine lines 1h - 15% -35% Number of fine lines 2h -13% -15% Surface total wrinkle -13% -27% Note: Fingerprints were performed at t = 0.1 h, 2h after applying creams.   10- Dermatological, pharmaceutical and veterinary cosmetic compositions according to any one of claims 2 to 8 characterized in that they are in the form of an emulsion which contains: Phas Nom Name Inci French Aldivia Aldivia es commercial X3061 X3062 A Oil of Helianthus annus Oil of the species 15% 15% sunflower seed oil Helianthus Annus Active ingredient Hydroxystearic / oleic / li Polyglycerides of acids 0% 5% nolenic polyglycerides hydroxysearic, oleic, linolenic B water water 79,85% 74.85% Arlatone 2121 Sorbitan Stearate - Sorbitan Sterate & Cocoate 4% 4% Sucrose Cocoate Sugar Rhodicare T Xanthan Gum Xanthan Gum 0.15% 0.15% C Optimum Conservative Liquate 1% 1% With the following results: Test Aldivia X3061 Aldivia X3062 Upper layers 3h -13% + 12% Median layers 3h + 3% + 10% All layers 3h + 2% + 6% Note: Measurements were made at t = 0.1 h, 3h after 'application of s 10 creams.   11- Cosmetic dermatological, pharmaceutical and veterinary compositions according to any one of claims 2 to 10, characterized in that it is an anti-aging face cream containing: Name Inci French translation Name% commercial Phase A Caprylic / Capric Triglycerides Triglycerides of caprylic, capric acids 8 Sclerocarya Birrea Oil Oil of the species Sclerocarya Birrea Oil of 3 Marula Ximenia Americana Seed Oil Oil of the species Ximenia Americana Oil of 3 Ximenia Simmondia Chinensis (Jojoba) Oil from the species Simmondia Oil of 2 Seed Oil Chinensis Jojoba Trichilia Emetica Seed Butter Butter from the species Trichilia Emetica Butter 2 Mafura Safflower Oil Polyglyceryl-6 Esters of Safflower Oil and Viatenza 1 Polyglycerol Esters 6 Safflower P06 Oleic / Linoleic / Linolenic Polyglycerides of Oleic Acids, Linoleic, Principle 0.75 Active Linolenic Polyglycerides Hydroxystearic / Linolenic / Oleic Acid Polyglycerides s, Principle 0.75 Oleic polyglycerides, active linoleic5Cetearyl Alcohol and Hexadecanol mixture 1 & octadecanol 1 3 Cocoglucoside and coco lucoside Phase B Aqua Water Os 100 Potato Starch Modified Modified starch 2 Phase C Preservative Preservative qs Cyclomethicone Cyclopolydimethylsiloxane 2 Perfume Perfume qs 20   12- Cosmetic dermatological, pharmaceutical and veterinary compositions according to any one of claims 2 to 10 characterized in that it is a glossy shampoo containing: Name Inci French translation Name% commercial Phase A Sodium Lauryl Sulphate Lauryl sulphate sodium 10 Cocamidopropylbetaine 10 Lauryl Glucoside 5 Oleic / Linoleic / Linolenic Polyglycerides Polyglycerides of oleic acids, Active ingredient 0.2 linoleic, linolenic Schinziophyton Rautanenii Kernel Oil Oil of the species Oil of 0.1 Schinziophyton Rautanenii Mongongo Sclerocarya Birrea Oil Oil issue of the species Oil of 0.1 Sclerocarya Birrea Marula Apricot Kernel oit Polyglyceryl-10 Esters Esters of apricot kernel oil Viatenza 0.75 and polyglycerol 10. apricot P010 Argan Oil Polyglyceryl-6 Esters Argan and Viatenza Argan 0.25 Polyglycerol 6 P06 Phase B Aqua Water Qs 100 Phase C Preservative Preservative qs Sodium chloride Sodium Chloride qs Perfume Perfume qs 25   13- Dermatological, pharmaceutical and veterinary cosmetological compositions according to any one of claims 2 to 10, characterized in that it is a moisturizing bath oil containing: 35Nom Inci French translation Name% commercial A _Phase Apricot Kernel oil Esters of Apricot Kernel Oil and Viatenza Apricot 10 Polyglyceryl-10 Polyglycerol Esters 10 P010 Sclerocarya Birrea Oil Oil from Sclerocarya Birrea Oil from Marula 3 Schinziophyton Rautanenii Oil from Schinziophyton Oil from 3 Kernel Oil Rautanenii Mongongo Citrillus Lanatus Oil from the species Citrillus Lanatus from Melon Oil 3 (Watermelon) Seed Oil Kalahari from Kalahari Oleic / Linoleic / Linolenic Polyglycerides from oleic acids, linoleic, active ingredient 0.3 Polyglycerides linolenic Olea Europaea (Olive) Fruit Oil of the species Olea Europaea Olive oil 25 Organic oil Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride Triglycerides of caprylic acids, caprique qs Tocopheryl Acetate Tocopheryl acetate 0.5 perfume Perfume qs   14- Cosmetic dermatological, pharmaceutical and veterinary compositions according to any one of claims 2 to 10 characterized in that it is a hydrating face cream containing: Name Inci French Translation Trade Name Phase A Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Oil organism of the species Oil of 6 Seed OR Helianthus Annus organic oleic sunflower Sclerocarya Birrea Oil Oil of the species Sclerocarya Oil of Marula 2 Birrea Ximenia Americana Seed Oil Oil of the species Ximenia Oil of 2 Americana Ximenia Citrillus Lanatus ( Watermelon) Oil of the species Citrillus Lanatus Melon oil 5 Seed Oil of the Kalahari Kalahari Macadamia Ternifolia Organic oil of the species Oil of 1 (Macadamia) seed oil Macadamia Ternifolia Macadamia Organic Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Oil Extract of sunflower and centella Viazest 1 Seed Oil centella OS20S (and) Centella Asiatica Extract Oleic / Linoleic / Linolenic Polygl oleic acid yerides, Active ingredient 2.5 Linoleic Polyglycerides, linolenic Hydroxystearic / Linolenic / Oleic Acid Polyglycerides Active Principle 2.5 Polyglycerides hydroxystearic, oleic, linolenic Glyceryl Stearate - PEG-100 Mixture of glycerol stearate and 2 Stearate stearate PEG 100 (polyethylene glycol) Cetearyl Alcohol Hexadecanol mixture 1 & octadecanol 2 1 Disodium EDTA Ethylenediaminetetraacetate 0.5 Phase BAqua Water Qs 100 Carbomer Polyacrylic acid 0.2 glycerin glycerol 2 Phase C Preservative Preservative qs Rubus Idaeus (Raspberry) Oil from Rubus Idaeus Hule Seed 0.2 Seed Oil Raspberry Perfume Perfume qs   15- Cosmetic dermatological, pharmaceutical and veterinary compositions according to any one of claims 2 to 10 characterized in that it is a moisturizing face oil containing: Name Inci French Translation Trade Name Phase A Helianthus Annuus Organic Oil of the species Sunflower oil 31.5 (Sunflower) Seed Oil Helianthus Oleic organic oleic Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride Triglycerides of caprylic acid, 27.5 capric Sesamum Indicum (Sesame) Organic oil derived from the species Sesame oil 15 Seed Oil Sesamum Organic Indicum Macadamia Ternifolia Organic Oil of the Species Macadamia Oil 3 (Macadamia) Seed Oil Organic Macadamia Ternifolia Sclerocarya Birrea OH Oil of the Species Marula Oil 5 Sclerocarya Birrea Citrillus Lanatus Oil of the Citrillus Species Watermelon Oil Seed Oil Lanatus Kalahari Kalahari Adansonia Digitata Seed Oil Oil from the species Adan sonia Baobab Oil 4 Digitata Marula oil Polyglyceryl-6 Marula oil esters and Viatenza marula P06 2 Polyglycerol esters 6 Olive Oil Polyglyceryl-6 Olive oil esters and Viatenza olive P06 8 Polyglycerol 6 esters Oleic / Linoleic / Linolenic Polyglycerides of Oleic Acids, Active Principle 0.5 Linoleic Polyglycerides, Linolenic Tocopheryl Acetate Tocopherol Acetate 0.5 Perfume Perfume qs 2510   16 dermatological cosmetic, pharmaceutical and veterinary compositions according to any one of claims 2 to 10 characterized in that it is a moisturizing massage oil containing: Name Inci French Translation Trade Name Phase A Helianthus Annuus Organic Oil from Sunflower oil 49.6 (Sunflower) Seed Oil Helianthus species Organic oleic annus Safflower Oil Polyglyceryl-6 Safflower oil and Viatenza safflower esters 10 Polyglycerol esters 6 PO6 Sclerocarya Birrea Oil Oil of the species Oil of Marula 3 Sclerocarya Birrea Schinziophyton Rautanenii Oil of the species Mongongo oil 3 Kernel Oil Schinziophyton Rautanenii Orbignya Oleifera (Babassu) Oil of the species Orbignya Oil of babassu 27 Seed Oil Oleifera Trichilia Emetica Seed Butter Butter of the species Trichilia Mafura butter 2 Emetica Oleic / Linoleic / Linolenic Polyglycerides of oleic acids, active ingredient 5 Polyglycerides li noleic, linolenic Tocopheryl Acetate Tocopherol Acetate 0.5 Perfume Perfume 20 25 20 30   17 dermatological, pharmaceutical and veterinary cosmetological compositions according to any one of claims 2 to 10 characterized in that it is a waterproof sunscreen containing: Name Inci French Translation Trade Name% Phase A Aqua Water qs glycerin glycerol 1 Carbomer Polyacrylic Acid 0.2 Phase B C12-C15 alkyl benzoate C12-C15 alkyl benzoate 2 Helianthus Annuus Oil of the species Sunflower oil 3 (Sunflower) Seed Oil Helianthus Oleic annulus Sclerocarya Birrea Oil Oil from species Marula oil 2 Sclerocarya Birrea Adansonia Digitata Seed Oil Oil of the species Baobab oil 3 Adansonia Digitata Prunus cerasus (bitter cherry) Oil of the species Prunus Cherry oil 1 seed oil cerasus Hydroxystearic / Linolenic / Olei Polyglecrides of acids Active ingredient 5 c Polyglycerides hydroxystearic, oleic, linolenic Helianthus Annuus Extract of sunflower oil and Viazest calendula 1 (Sunflower) Seed Oil calendula OS30F (and) Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract Cetearyl Alcohol and Hexadecanol 1 & 3 Cocoglucoside octadecanol 1 and cocoglucoside Cetearyl Alcohol Hexadecanol 1 & 2 octadecanol 1 Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate Ethylhexyl 3-butyl 1- (4- (4-methyl) methoxycinnamate (1,1-Dimethylethyl) phenyl) -3- 1 Methoxydibenzoylmethane (4-methoxyphenyl) propane-1,3-dione Phase C Preservative Preservative qs Cyclomethicone Cyclopolydimethylsiloxane 2 Perfume Perfume qs 10   18 dermatological cosmetic, pharmaceutical and veterinary compositions according to any one of claims 2 to 17 characterized in that they are in the form of: soaps, dermatological loaves, shampoos, bubble baths, care creams, shaving creams, sun creams, 15 milks, lotions, makeup removers, exfoliants, masks, emulsions, bath oils, antiperspirants, foundations, powders, varnishes, lipsticks, sticks, balms, ointments, capsules, skincare capsules, nails, hair, and makeup.   19. Cosmetic dermatological, pharmaceutical and veterinary compositions according to any one of claims 2 to 18, characterized in that they are suitable for topical and / or oral application.