WO2011113501A1 - Hair treatment agent having at least four selected oils - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention relates to a hair treatment agent containing, in addition to other customary components, a mixture comprising at least four selected oils for reducing breakage, for decreasing split ends, for improving conditioning, in particular the wet and dry combing abilities of keratinaceous fibres, for improving gloss, for improving the moisture balance and for deep care, that is say for regenerating the keratinaceous fibres from the interior of the fibres outwards, protecting from effects due to UV radiation and very particularly for protecting against oxidative damage and for maintaining growth.

Description

 "Hair treatment products containing at least four selected oils"

The present invention relates to hair treatment compositions containing, among other conventional ingredients, a mixture consisting of at least four selected oils to reduce hair breakage, to reduce split ends, to improve the finishing, in particular the wet and dry combing keratin fibers, to improve the gloss, to improve the Moisture balance and deep care, that is, the regeneration of the keratin fibers from the inside of the fibers out, the protection against the effects of UV radiation and especially to protect against oxidative damage and to maintain hair growth.

 There is a need to further improve hair care products and to give them further advantageous properties. In particular, a care complex should be provided, which can also be used in conjunction with oxidizing agent.

 It is therefore an object of the present invention to reduce the above-described side effects of environmental influences and oxidative hair treatments already preferably during the oxidative hair treatment but also after the oxidative hair treatment, without the efficiency of the oxidative cosmetic, especially with regard to color intensity, color fastness, brightening power or Welling effect, worsen. In addition, in the form of a 2-in-1 product in an application step, the oxidative treatment keratinhaltiger fibers, especially human hair, with the application of an effective fiber protection from environmental influences, such as UV protection, are connected.

 It has now surprisingly been found that the object is achieved to an outstanding extent by the use of a cosmetic agent containing seven selected oils.

A first subject of the present invention are therefore cosmetic compositions for the treatment of keratinic fibers, in particular human hair, containing in a cosmetic carrier a mixture of at least four different natural oils.

 In a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the cosmetic agents are used to treat keratinous fibers, in particular human hair. Preferred agents according to the invention are therefore shampoos, hair dyes, conditioners or hair tonics. The finish can be significantly improved by using the seven selected oils. This manifests itself in an improvement in the combability, feel or shape of keratinous fibers, especially human hair. By combing is understood according to the invention both the combability of the wet fiber, as well as the combability of the dry fiber.

The grip defines the tactility of a fiber collective, whereby the expert sensoryly senses and evaluates the parameters fullness and suppleness of the collective. Shaping is understood to mean the ability to give a shape change to a group of previously treated keratin-containing fibers, in particular human hair. Hair cosmetics also speak of hair styling.

 By maintaining the natural growth of keratinous fibers, it is understood that the effects on natural hair growth are compensated by hair cosmetic treatments as outlined above, in particular by oxidative hair treatments, and no or at least slight effects on the natural growth of the keratinic fibers in terms of thickness growth, the growth in length and / or in relation to the hair fullness are present. The growth in thickness, the growth in length or the hair fullness can be determined both subjectively and objectively or in different test models.

 In the context of an oxidative hair treatment, the action of an oxidative cosmetic agent containing at least one oxidizing agent on hair in a cosmetic carrier is defined according to the invention.

 The at least four oils are preferably used immediately before, during or after the oxidative hair treatment in the form of an agent containing in a cosmetic carrier the mixture of at least four oils. As immediately before the oxidative hair treatment is understood in the context of the invention, an application directly followed by the oxidative hair treatment, wherein the at least seven oils containing agent previously rinsed from the hair or preferably left on the hair and the hair is preferably still wet ,

For the purposes of the invention, the term "oxidative hair treatment" refers to an application which either directly follows the oxidative hair treatment, wherein the agent containing the seven oils, after rinsing the hair dye or the bleaching agent or the waving agent, onto the preferably still wet, towel-dried hair is applied, or only after several hours or days on the dry or wet hair is applied. In both cases, the agent according to the invention can be rinsed out again after a contact time of a few seconds up to 45 minutes or remain completely on the hair.

The effect of the agent according to the invention unfolds even during the oxidative hair treatment and surprisingly persists even after intensive washing out of the composition according to the invention.

The at least four oils according to the invention are preferably used in a cosmetic carrier. The cosmetic carriers may in particular be aqueous or aqueous-alcoholic. An aqueous cosmetic carrier contains at least 50% by weight of water. For the purposes of the present invention, aqueous-alcoholic cosmetic carriers include aqueous solutions containing 3 to 70% by weight of a C ₁ -C ₆ -alcohol, in particular methanol, ethanol or propanol, isopropanol, butanol, isobutanol, tert-butanol, n-pentanol , Iso-pentanols, n-hexanol, isohexanols, glycol, glycerol, 1, 2-pentanediol, 1, 5-pentanediol, 1, 2-hexanediol or 1, 6-hexanediol to understand. The compositions of the invention may additionally contain other organic solvents, such as methoxybutanol, benzyl alcohol, ethyl diglycol or 1, 2-propylene glycol. Preference is given to all water-soluble organic solvents. The at least four oils according to the invention are selected from the natural oils.

Examples of natural oils are acai oil, algae oil, amaranth seed oil, aniseed oil, annatto oil, apricot kernel oil, apple kernel oil, argan oil, avellana oil, avocado oil, babacu oil, babassu oil, baobab oil, cottonseed oil, bitter almond oil, borage seed oil, broccoli seed oil, camelina oil, cashew oil, cupuacu oil, thistle oil, peanut oil, eucalyptus oil , Fennel oil, fish oil, pomegranate seed oil, grapefruit seed oil, rose hip seed oil, hemp oil, hazelnut oil, raspberry seed oil, elderberry seed oil, honeydew melon oil, jatropha oil, currant seed oil, St. John's wort oil, jojoba oil, cocoa butter, cocoa oil, coffee oil, camellia oil, cherry oil, coconut oil, pumpkin seed oil, salmon oil, linseed oil, linseed oil, camelina oil , Laurel oil, macadamia nut oil, corn oil, almond oil, mango butter, passion fruit oil, marula oil, melon oil, poppy seed oil, evening primrose oil, mink oil, olive oil, olive kernel oil, palm oil, palm kernel oil, papaya seed oil, patchouli oil, peach kernel oil, plum kernel oil, pecan nut oil, perilla oil, pistachio nut oil, prices raspberry oil, rambutan oil, rapeseed oil, rice germ oil, rice oil, castor oil, sacha inchi oil, sea buckthorn oil, sea buckthorn seed oil, black cumin oil, mustard oil, sesame oil, shea butter, soybean oil, sunflower oil, squalone oil, sweet almond oil, tea tree oil, thyme oil, grapeseed oil, tung oil, ucuuba butter, vassoura oil, walnut oil, watermelon oil , Wheat germ oil, meadowfoam oil, wild rose oil, yak hair oil, ylang-ylang oil or civet oil. This list is to be understood as an example. Any natural oil, especially any oil known as a foodstuff or in the field of natural medicine, may be part of the oil complex comprising at least four oils. Preferred oils according to the invention are those which are obtained from fruits, fruits, nuts, seeds, stones or kernels.

 Preferred oils according to the invention are selected from apricot kernel oil, apple seed oil, argan oil, babassu oil, cottonseed oil, bitter almond oil, cashew oil, cupuacum oil, thistle oil, peanut oil, pomegranate seed oil, grapefruit seed oil, rose hip kernel oil, hemp oil, hazelnut oil, raspberry seed oil, elderflower seed oil, honeydew melon oil, currant seed oil, jojoba oil, cocoa butter, cocoa oil, Coffee oil, camellia oil, cherry oil, coconut oil, pumpkin seed oil, laurel oil, macadamia nut oil, corn oil, almond oil, mango butter, passion fruit oil, marula oil, melon oil, poppy seed oil, evening primrose oil, olive oil, olive kernel oil, papaya seed oil, patchouli oil, peach kernel oil, plum kernel oil, pecan nut oil, perilla oil, pistachio nut oil, cranberry seed oil, Rice germ oil, rice oil, castor oil, sacha inchi oil, sea buckthorn pulp oil, sea buckthorn seed oil, black cumin oil, mustard oil, sesame oil, shea butter, soybean oil, sunflower oil, squalene oil, sweet almond oil, tea tree oil, grapeseed oil, ucuuba butter, walnut oil, watermelon oil, wheat Enkeimöl, meadowfoam or wild rose oil.

The oils of the oil complex are particularly preferably selected from apricot kernel oil, apple seed oil, argan oil, babassu oil, bitter almond oil, cashew oil, pomegranate kernel oil, grapefruit seed oil, rosehip kernel oil, hazelnut oil, raspberry seed oil, elderberry seed oil, honeydew melon oil, currant seed oil, cocoa oil, coffee oil, camellia oil, cherry kernel oil, Coconut oil, pumpkin seed oil, bay oil, macadamia nut oil, corn oil, almond oil, passion fruit oil, marula oil, melon oil, poppy seed oil, evening primrose oil, olive oil, olive kernel oil, papaya seed oil, patchouli oil, peach kernel oil, plum kernel oil, pecan nut oil, pistachio nut oil, cranberry seed oil, rice germ oil, sacha inchi oil, sea buckthorn oil, sea buckthorn seed oil, sesame oil , Soybean oil, Sunflower oil, sweet almond oil, tea tree oil, grapeseed oil, walnut oil, watermelon oil, wheat germ oil, meadowfoam oil or wild rose oil.

 Very particular preference is given to the oils of the olcomplex comprising at least four different oils selected from apricot kernel oil, argan oil, cashew oil, pomegranate kernel oil, grapefruit seed oil, rosehip kernel oil, hazelnut oil, raspberry seed oil, elderflower seed oil, honeydew melon oil, currant seed oil, camellia oil, cherry kernel oil, coconut oil, pumpkin seed oil, bay leaf oil, macadamia nut oil, passion fruit oil , Marula oil, melon oil, evening primrose oil, olive oil, papaya seed oil, patchouli oil, peach kernel oil, plum kernel oil, pecan nut oil, pistachio oil, cranberry seed oil, sacha inchi oil, sea buckthorn seed oil, sesame oil, sunflower oil, sweet almond oil, grapeseed oil, walnut oil, watermelon oil, wheat germ oil or rosehip oil.

 Most preferred are the oils of the oil complex of at least four different oils selected from apricot kernel oil, argan oil, cashew oil, pomegranate seed oil, grapefruit seed oil, hazelnut oil, raspberry seed oil, elderberry seed oil, currant seed oil, camellia oil, cherry oil, coconut oil, macadamia nut oil, passion fruit oil, marula oil, melon oil, olive oil, papaya seed oil, Peach kernel oil, plum kernel oil, pecan nut oil, pistachio nut oil, sea buckthorn seed oil, sesame oil, sunflower oil, sweet almond oil, grapeseed oil, walnut oil or wild rose oil.

Most preferred are the oils of the olcomplex of at least four different oils selected from apricot kernel oil, argan oil, cashew oil, pomegranate kernel oil, hazelnut oil, elderflower seed oil, currant seed oil, camellia oil, macadamia nut oil, passion fruit oil, marula oil, olive oil, papaya seed oil, peach kernel oil, plum kernel oil, pistachio nut oil, sea buckthorn kernel oil, sesame oil, Sweet almond oil, grape seed oil, walnut oil or wild rose oil.

 A most preferred composition of the olefin complex of at least four different oils contains at least four oils selected from apricot kernel oil, argan oil, pomegranate kernel oil, macadamia nut oil, marula oil, olive oil, sesame oil, sweet almond oil, grape seed oil, walnut oil or wild rose oil.

 In the oil complexes of at least four different oils, at least one oil of cores and at least one oil of nuts are preferably contained.

 Particularly preferred compositions according to the invention comprising at least four different oils are characterized in that they contain at least four oils selected from apricot kernel oil, argan oil, macadamia nut oil, olive oil, sesame oil and almond oil, in particular sweet almond oil.

 Preferred compositions according to the invention containing at least five, more preferably at least six, more preferably at least seven or at least eight natural oils contain at least one oil of cores and at least one oil of nuts.

Particularly preferred compositions according to the invention containing at least five, more preferably at least six, more preferably at least seven or at least eight natural oils are characterized in that at least four of the oils are selected from apricot kernel oil, argan oil, macadamia nut oil, olive oil, sesame oil and almond oil, especially sweet almond oil. An example of a most preferred composition of the invention includes apricot kernel oil, argan oil, macadamia nut oil, marula oil, olive oil, sesame oil, and sweet almond oil. Preferably, the oil complex contains at least five different oils, more preferably at least six, most preferably at least seven and most preferably at least eight different oils.

 The mixing ratio of the at least four oils is preferably such that all oils are used in approximately equal amounts.

 The total amount of the oils is the sum of the oils at least 0.04 and at most 40 wt.% Based on the weight of the total composition. Each individual oil component of the mixture of the oils is at least 0.01% by weight, preferably at least 0.02% by weight and at most 5.0% by weight, preferably at most 3.0% by weight and most preferably at most 1, 0 wt.% Included.

 As far as below the active ingredient complex (A) is spoken, this statement refers to the ingredients contained in the inventive compositions.

 The compositions according to the invention preferably contain further ingredients. These are, for example, with particular preference ester oils. The ester oils are defined as follows:

Ester oils are to be understood as meaning the esters of C ₆ - C ₃₀ fatty acids with C ₂ - C ₃₀ fatty alcohols. The monoesters of the fatty acids with alcohols having 2 to 24 carbon atoms are preferred. Examples of fatty acid components used in the esters are caproic acid, caprylic acid, 2-ethylhexanoic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, isotridecanoic acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, palmitoleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, petroselinic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, elaeostearic acid, arachidic acid, gadoleic acid, behenic acid and Erucic acid and its technical mixtures. Examples of the fatty alcohol components in the ester oils are isopropyl alcohol, caproic alcohol, capryl alcohol, 2-ethylhexyl alcohol, capric alcohol, lauryl alcohol, isotridecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmoleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, elaidyl alcohol, petroselinyl alcohol, linolyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol, elaeostearyl alcohol, arachyl alcohol, Gadoleyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol and brassidyl alcohol and their technical mixtures. According to the invention, particularly preferred are isopropyl myristate (IPM Rilanit ^®), isononanoic acid C16-18 alkyl ester (Cetiol ^® SN), 2-ethylhexyl palmitate (Cegesoft ^® 24) stearic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester (Cetiol ^® 868), cetyl oleate, glycerol tricaprylate, Kokosfettalkohol- caprate / caprylate (Cetiol ^® LC), n-butyl stearate, oleyl erucate (Cetiol ^® J 600), isopropyl palmitate (IPP Rilanit ^®), oleyl Oleate (Cetiol ^®), hexyl laurate (Cetiol ^® A), di-n-butyl adipate (Cetiol ^® B), myristyl myristate (Cetiol ^® MM), cetearyl isononanoate (Cetiol ^® SN), oleic acid decyl ester (Cetiol ^® V).

Of course, the ester oils may also be alkoxylated with ethylene oxide, propylene oxide, or mixtures of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide. The alkoxylation can be found both on the fatty alcohol part and on the fatty acid part and on both parts of the ester oils. However, preference is given according to the invention if the fatty alcohol was first alkoxylated and then esterified with fatty acid. In the formula (D4-II), these compounds are generally shown.

 R 1 is a saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched, cyclic saturated cyclic unsaturated acyl radical having 6 to 30 carbon atoms,

AO is ethylene oxide, propylene oxide or butylene oxide,

 X is a number between 1 and 200, preferably 1 and 100, more preferably between 1 and 50, most preferably between 1 and 20, most preferably between 1 and 10 and most preferably between 1 and 5,

 R 2 represents a saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched cyclic saturated cyclic unsaturated alkyl, alkenyl, alkynyl, phenyl or benzyl radical having from 6 to 30 carbon atoms. Examples of fatty acid moieties used as radical R1 in the esters are caproic acid, caprylic acid, 2-ethylhexanoic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, isotridecanoic acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, palmitoleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, petroselinic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, elaeostearic acid, arachidic acid , Gadoleic acid, behenic acid and erucic acid and their technical mixtures. Examples of the fatty alcohol moieties R2 in the ester oils are benzyl alcohol, isopropyl alcohol, caproic alcohol, capryl alcohol, 2-ethylhexyl alcohol, capric alcohol, lauryl alcohol, isotridecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmoleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, elaidyl alcohol, petroselinyl alcohol, linolyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol, elaeostearyl alcohol , Arachylalkohol, gadoleyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol and brassidyl alcohol and their technical mixtures. A particularly preferred ester oil according to the invention is obtainable, for example, under the INCI name PPG-3 benzyl ether myristate.

Furthermore, ester oils are to be understood as meaning:

 Dicarboxylic acid esters such as di-n-butyl adipate, di- (2-ethylhexyl) adipate, di- (2-ethylhexyl) succinate and di-isotridecyl acelate, and diol esters such as ethylene glycol dioleate, ethylene glycol diisotridecanoate, propylene glycol di (2- ethylhexanoate), propylene glycol diisostearate,

Propylene glycol di-pelargonate, butanediol diisostearate, neopentyl glycol, as well as symmetrical, asymmetrical or cyclic esters of carbonic acid with fatty alcohols, for example glycerol carbonate or dicaprylyl carbonate (Cetiol ^® CC),

 Trifatty acid esters of saturated and / or unsaturated linear and / or branched fatty acids with glycerol,

Fatty acid partial glycerides, ie monoglycerides, diglycerides and their technical mixtures. Typical examples are mono- and / or diglycerides based on caproic acid, caprylic acid, 2-ethylhexanoic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, isotridecanoic acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, palmitoleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, petroselinic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, elaeostearic acid, arachidic acid, Gadoleic acid, behenic acid and erucic acid and their technical mixtures. Preferably, oleic acid monoglycerides are used. The ester oils are present in the compositions according to the invention in an amount of from 0.01 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.01 to 10.0% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.01 to 7.5% by weight, most preferably from 0, 1 to 5.0 wt.% Used. Of course, it is also possible according to the invention to use several ester oils at the same time.

 According to the invention, the agents according to the invention furthermore preferably contain at least one quaternary imidazoline compound. The formula I shown below shows the structure of these compounds.

 Formula I

The radicals R independently of one another each represent a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon radical having a chain length of 8 to 30 carbon atoms. The preferred compounds of the formula I each contain the same hydrocarbon radical for R. The chain length of the radicals R is preferably 12 to 21 carbon atoms. Examples according to the invention are available, for example, under the INCII names Quaternium-27, Quaternium-72, Quaternium-83 and Quaternium-91. Furthermore, the following cationic surfactants according to the formula (Tkat-2) can be used. RCO-XN ⁺ RR ² R ³ A ^" (Tkat-2)

 R here stands for a substituted or unsubstituted, branched or straight-chain alkyl or alkenyl radical having 1 to 35 carbon atoms in the chain,

X is - O - or - NR ⁵ -,

 R is an alkylene group having 2 to 6 C atoms, which may be unsubstituted or substituted, in which case substitution with an -OH or -NH group is preferred in the case of a substitution,

R ² , R ³ each independently represent an alkyl or hydroxyalkyl group having 1 to 6 C atoms in the chain, which chain may be straight or branched.

R5 is hydrogen or a C1 to C6 straight-chain or branched, alkyl or alkenyl radical which may also be substituted by a hydroxy group.

 Within this structural class, the compounds of one of the following structures are preferably used:

CH ₃ (CH ₂ ) ₂ oCONH (CH ₂ ) ₃ - N ⁺ (CH ₃ ) ₂ - CH ₂ CH ₃ (Tkat-3) CH ₃ (CH ₂ ) ₂₀ CONH (CH ₂ ) ₃ - N ⁺ (CH ₃ ) ₂ -CH ₂ (CHOH) CH ₂ OH A ^" (Tkat-4) CH ₃ (CH ₂ ) ₂₀ COOCH ₂ CHOHCH ₂ - N ⁺ (CH ₃ ) ₃ A ^" (Tkat-5) CH ₃ (CH ₂ ) ₂₀ CONH (CH ₂ ) ₃ - N ⁺ (CH ₃ ) ₂ -CH ₂ CH ₂ OH A ^" (Tkat-6) Examples of such commercial products are Schercoquat BAS, Lexquat AMG-BEO, Akypoquat 131 or Incroquat Behenyl HE.

 Furthermore, esterquats according to the formula (Tkat1 -2) can be used.

R2

l ₊

 -N- A- R4 Q

 I

 R3

 (Tkat1-2)

 Here, the radicals R1, R2 and R3 are each independently and may be the same or different. The radicals R1, R2 and R3 mean:

 a branched or unbranched alkyl radical having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, which may contain at least one hydroxyl group, or

 a saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched or a cyclic saturated or unsaturated alkyl radical having 6 to 30 carbon atoms, which may contain at least one hydroxyl group, or

 an aryl or alkaryl radical, for example phenyl or benzyl,

 - the rest (- A - R4), with the proviso that at most 2 of the radicals R1, R2 or R3 can stand for this radical:

The remainder - (A - R4) is contained at least 1 to 3 times.

Herein A stands for:

 1) - (CH 2) n - with n = 1 to 20, preferably n = 1 to 10 and particularly preferably n = 1 - 5, or

 2) - (CH 2 -CHR 5 -O) n - where n = 1 to 200, preferably 1 to 100, particularly preferably 1 to 50, and particularly preferably 1 to 20 with R 5 in the meaning of hydrogen, methyl or ethyl,

and R4 stands for:

 1) R6-0-CO-, wherein R6 is a saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched or cyclic saturated or unsaturated alkyl radical having 6 to 30 carbon atoms, which may contain at least one hydroxy group, and which optionally further with 1 to 100 ethylene oxide units and or 1 to 100 propylene oxide units may be ethoxylated, or

 2) R7-CO-, wherein R7 is a saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched or cyclic saturated or unsaturated alkyl radical having 6 to 30 carbon atoms, which may contain at least one hydroxy group, and which optionally further with 1 to 100 ethylene oxide units and / or 1 to 100 propylene oxide units can be ethoxylated,

and Q is a physiologically acceptable organic or inorganic anion.

Such products are, for example, under the trademarks Rewoquat ^®, Stepantex® ^®,

Dehyquart® ^® and Armocare® ^® marketed. The products Armocare ^® VGH-70, an N, N-bis (2- Palmitoyloxyethyl) dimethylammonium chloride, as well as Dehyquart ^® F-75, Dehyquart C-4046, Dehyquart ^® L80, Dehyquart ^® F-30, Dehyquart ^® AU-35, Rewoquat ^® WE18, Rewoquat ^® WE38 DPG and Stepantex ^® VS 90 are examples of such esterquats.

Further compounds of the formula (Tkat1-2) which are particularly preferred according to the invention belong to the formula (Tkat1-2.1), the cationic betaine esters.

 R8 corresponds in its meaning R7.

 As a further ingredient Monoalkyltrimethylammoniumsalze with a chain length of the

Alkyl radicals of 16 to 24 carbon atoms may be included.

 These compounds have the structure shown in the formula (Tkat1-1)

 Wherein R1, R2 and R3 are each a methyl group and R4 is a saturated, branched or unbranched alkyl radical having a chain length of 16 to 24 carbon atoms. Examples of compounds of the formula (Tkat1-1) are cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, cetyltrimethylammonium bromide, cetyltrimethylammonium methosulfate, stearyltrimethylammonium chloride, behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, behenyltrimethylammonium bromide and behenyltrimethylammonium methosulfate.

In a particularly preferred embodiment of the invention, the compositions according to the invention furthermore comprise at least one amine and / or cationized amine, in particular an amidoamine and / or a cationized amidoamine having the following structural formulas:

R - NH - (CH ₂ ) _n --NR ² R ³ (Tkat7) and / or

R - NH - (CH ₂ ) _n - NR ² R ³ R ⁴ (Tkat8)

wherein R 1 is an acyl or alkyl radical having 6 to 30 C atoms, which may be branched or unbranched, saturated or unsaturated, and wherein the acyl radical and / or the alkyl radical may contain at least one OH group, and

 R 2, R 3 and R 4 are each independently of one another hydrogen or an alkyl radical having 1 to 4 C atoms, which may be identical or different, saturated or unsaturated, and

X ^" an anion and

n is an integer between 1 and 10.

Preference is given to a composition in which the amine and / or the quaternized amine according to general formulas (Tkat7) and / or (Tkat8) is an amidoamine and / or a quaternized amidoamine, in which R1 is a branched or unbranched, saturated or unsaturated Acyl radical having 6 to 30 carbon atoms, which may contain at least one OH group means. Preference is given in this case to a fatty acid radical of oils and waxes, in particular of natural oils and waxes. Examples of these are lanolin, bees or candellila waxes.

Also preferred are those amidoamines and / or quaternized amidoamines in which R 2, R 3 and / or R 4 in formulas (Tkat7) and / or (Tkat8) represent a radical according to the general formula CH ₂ CH ₂ OR 5, where R 5 is the meaning of alkyl radicals having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, hydroxyethyl or hydrogen. The preferred size of n in the general formulas (Tkat7) and / or (Tkat8) is an integer between 2 and 5.

Also preferred are amidoamines and / or quaternized amidoamines of the general formulas (Tkat7) and / or (Tkat8) in which the anion X ^"is a halide ion or a compound of the general formula RSÖ ₃ ^" , where R is the meaning of saturated or unsaturated alkyl radicals having 1 to 4 carbon atoms.

The alkyl group having 1 to 4 carbon atoms of R2, R3 and R4 and / or alkyl having 1 to 4 carbon atoms of RSO ₃ ^"in the general formula (Tkat7) and / or (Tkat8) may contain at least one hydroxyl group.

 The alkylamidoamines can both be present as such and converted by protonation in a correspondingly acidic solution into a quaternary compound in the composition. According to the invention, the cationic alkylamidoamines are preferred.

 Suitable amidoamines to be used according to the invention, which may optionally be quaternized, are, for example, amidoamines: Witcamine 100 (Witco, INCI name: Cocamidopropyl Dimethylamine), Incromine BB (Croda, INCI name: behenamidopropyl dimethylamine), Mackin 401 (McIntyre, INCI name: isostearylamidopropyl dimethylamine) and other Mackine types, Adogen S18V (Witco, INCI name: Stearylamidopropyl Dimethylamine), and as permanent cationic aminoamines: Rewoquat RTM 50 (Witco Surfactants GmbH, INCI name: Ricinoleamidopropyltrimonium Methosulfate), Empigen CSC (Albright & Wilson, INCI name: Cocamidopropyltrimonium chloride), Swanol Lanoquat DES-50 (Nikko, INCI name: Quatemium-33), Rewoquat UTM 50 (Witco Surfactants GmbH, Undecyleneamidopropyltrimonium Methosulfate).

The anion of all cationic compounds is selected from the physiologically acceptable anions. Exemplary of these are the halide ions, fluoride, chloride, bromide, sulfate of the general formula RSÖ ₃ ^" , in which R has the meaning of saturated or unsaturated alkyl radicals having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, or anionic radicals of organic acids such as maleate, fumarate, oxalate, tartrate, Citrate, lactate or acetate, called.

The aforementioned cationic surfactants can be used individually or in any combination with each other, wherein amounts between 0.01 to 20 wt.%, Preferably in amounts of 0.01 to 10 wt.% And most preferably in amounts of 0.1 to 7.5% by weight. The very best results are obtained with amounts of from 0.1 to 5% by weight, based in each case on the total composition of the particular agent. Another particularly preferred ingredient is at least one cationically charged polymeric compound. In particular, those polymers in which the quaternary ammonium group is bonded via a C 1-4 hydrocarbon group to a polymer main chain constructed from acrylic acid, methacrylic acid or derivatives thereof have proven to be particularly suitable.

 The cationic polymers may be homopolymers or copolymers wherein the quaternary nitrogen groups are contained either in the polymer chain or preferably as a substituent on one or more of the monomers. The ammonium group-containing monomers may be copolymerized with non-cationic monomers. Suitable cationic monomers are unsaturated, radically polymerizable compounds bearing at least one cationic group, especially ammonium substituted vinyl monomers such as trialkylmethacryloxyalkylammonium, trialkylacryloxyalkylammonium, dialkyldiallylammonium and quaternary vinylammonium monomers having cyclic cationic nitrogen containing groups such as pyridinium, imidazolium or quaternary pyrrolidones, e.g. Alkylvinylimidazolium, Alkylvinylpyridinium, or Alyklvinylpyrrolidon salts. The alkyl groups of these monomers are preferably lower alkyl groups such as C1 to C7 alkyl groups, more preferably C1 to C3 alkyl groups.

 The ammonium group-containing monomers may be copolymerized with non-cationic monomers. Suitable comonomers are, for example, acrylamide, methacrylamide; Alkyl and dialkylacrylamide, alkyl and dialkylmethacrylamide, alkylacrylate, alkylmethacrylate, vinylcaprolactone, vinylcaprolactam, vinylpyrrolidone, vinylester, e.g. Vinyl acetate, vinyl alcohol, propylene glycol or ethylene glycol, wherein the alkyl groups of these monomers are preferably C1 to C7 alkyl groups, more preferably C1 to C3 alkyl groups.

 Examples of suitable polymers having quaternary amine groups are the polymers described in the CTFA Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary under the names Polyquaternium, such as methylvinylimidazolium chloride / vinylpyrrolidone copolymer (Polyquaternium-16) or quaternized vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymer (Polyquaternium-11).

Among the cationic polymers that can be included in the inventive composition, for example vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminoethyl copolymer available under the trade names Gafquat ^® 755 N and Gafquat ^® 734, United States is marketed by Gaf Co. and of which the Gafquat ^® 734 is particularly preferred suitable. Other cationic polymers are, for example, Germany, marketed by the company BASF under the tradename Luviquat ^® HM 550 copolymer of polyvinyl pyrrolidone and imidazolimine which ^® by the company Calgon / USA under the trade name Merquat Plus 3300 sold terpolymer of dimethyldiallylammonium chloride, sodium acrylate and acrylamide and sold by the company ISP under the trade name Gafquat ^® HS 100 vinylpyrrolidone / methacrylic amidopropyltrimethylammoniumchlorid copolymer. Homopolymers of the general formula (P1), - {CH ₂ - [CRCOO- (CH ₂ ) _m N ⁺ R ² R ³ R ⁴ ]} _n X-, in which R = -H or -CH ₃ , R ² , R ³ and R ^{4 are} independently selected from C1-4-

Alkyl, alkenyl or hydroxyalkyl groups, m = 1, 2, 3 or 4, n is a natural number and

X ^"is a physiologically acceptable organic or inorganic anion

Polymers are those inventively preferred for which at least one of the following

Conditions are: R is a methyl group, R ² , R ³ and R ⁴ are methyl groups, m is 2.

Suitable physiologically tolerated counterions X ^" are, for example, halide ions, sulfate ions, phosphate ions, methosulfate ions and organic ions such as lactate, citrate, tartrate and acetate ions, preference being given to halide ions, in particular chloride.

A particularly suitable homopolymer is the optionally crosslinked, poly (methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride) with the INCI name Polyquaternium 37. Such products are, for example, under the names Rheocare ^® CTH (Cosmetic Rheologies) and Synthalen ^® CR (3V Sigma) are commercially available.

The homopolymer is preferably used in the form of a non-aqueous polymer dispersion. Such polymer dispersions are available under the names Salcare ^® SC 95 and Salcare ^® SC 96 in the trade.

A copolymer preferred according to the invention is the crosslinked acrylamide-methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride copolymer. Such copolymers are commercially available under the name Salcare ^® SC 92nd

Suitable cationic polymers derived from natural polymers are cationic derivatives of polysaccharides, for example, cationic derivatives of cellulose, starch or guar. Also suitable are chitosan and chitosan derivatives. Cationic polysaccharides have the general formula (P-3) G-O-B-N + R _a R _b R _c X

 G is an anhydroglucose residue, for example starch or cellulose anhydroglucose;

 B is a divalent linking group, for example alkylene, oxyalkylene, polyoxyalkylene or

hydroxyalkylene;

R _a , R _b and R _c are independently alkyl, aryl, alkylaryl, arylalkyl, alkoxyalkyl or alkoxyaryl each having up to 18 carbon atoms, wherein the total number of carbon atoms in R _a , R _b and R _{c is} preferably not more than 20 is;

X ^" is a common counteranion and is preferably chloride.

A cationic cellulose is sold under the name Polymer JR 400 from Amerchol ^® and has the INCI designation Polyquaternium-10 degrees. Another cationic cellulose bears the INCI name Polyquaternium-24 and is sold under the trade name Polymer LM-200 by Amerchol. Other commercial products are the compounds Celquat ^® H 100, Celquat ^® L and 200. The commercial products mentioned are preferred cationic celluloses.

Suitable cationic guar derivatives are marketed under the trade name Jaguar ^® and have the INCI name guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride. Furthermore, particularly suitable cationic guar derivatives are also available from Hercules under the name N- ^Hance® in trade. Other cationic guar derivatives are marketed by the company. Cognis under the name Cosmedia® ^®. A preferred cationic guar derivative is the commercial product AquaCat® ^® from. Hercules. This raw material is an already pre-dissolved cationic guar derivative.

A suitable chitosan is sold, for example, by Kyowa Oil & Fat, Japan under the trade name Flonac ^®. A preferred chitosan is chitosoniumpyrrolidone is, for example, sold under the name Kytamer ^® PC by Amerchol, USA. Further chitosan derivatives are Hydagen® ^® CMF, Hydagen® ^® HCMF and Chitolam ^® NB / 101 freely available under the trade names in the trade.

 Further preferred cationic polymers are, for example

 cationic alkyl polyglycosides,

cationized honey, for example the commercial product Honeyquat ^® 50,

 polymeric dimethyldiallylammonium salts and their copolymers with esters and amides of

Acrylic acid and methacrylic acid. The under the names Merquat ^® 100

(Poly (dimethyldiallylammonium chloride)) and Merquat ^® 550 (dimethyldiallylammonium chloride

Acrylamide copolymer) commercially available products are examples of such cationic ones

polymers

Vinylpyrrolidone vinylimidazoliummethochloride copolymers, such as those offered under the names Luviquat.RTM ^® FC 370, FC 550, FC 905 and HM 552,

 quaternized polyvinyl alcohol,

 and the polymers known under the names Polyquaternium 2, Polyquaternium 17, Polyquaternium 18 and Polyquaternium 27 with quaternary nitrogen atoms in the polymer main chain,

Vinylpyrrolidone-vinylcaprolactam-acrylate terpolymers, such as those offered with acrylic acid esters and acrylamides as the third monomer building commercially, for example, under the name Aquaflex ^® SF 40.

Also usable in the invention are the copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone, such as the commercial products Copolymer 845 (manufactured by ISP), Gaffix ^® VC 713 (manufactured by ISP), Gafquat ^® ASCP 101 1, Gafquat ^® HS 1 10, Luviquat ^® 8155 and Luviquat ^® MS 370 are available. Furthermore, cationized protein hydrolysates are to be counted among the cationic polymers, wherein the underlying protein hydrolyzate from the animal, for example from collagen, milk or keratin, from the plant, for example from wheat, corn, rice, potatoes, soy or almonds, marine life forms, for example from fish collagen or algae, or biotechnologically derived protein hydrolysates. As typical examples of the cationic protein hydrolysates and derivatives according to the invention, those mentioned under the INCI names in the "International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook", (seventh edition 1997, The Cosmetic, Toiletry and Fragrance Association 1 101 17 ^th Street, NW, Suite 300, Washington, DC 20036-4702) and commercially available products. The cationic polymers are contained in the compositions according to the invention preferably in amounts of 0.01 to 10 wt .-%, based on the total agent. Levels of 0.05 to 5 wt .-% are particularly preferred.

Furthermore, amphoteric polymers can be used as polymers. The term amphoteric polymers includes both those polymers which contain in the molecule both free amino groups and free -COOH or S0 ₃ H groups and which are capable of forming internal salts, as well as zwitterionic polymers which in the molecule have quaternary ammonium groups and -COO or -S0 ₃ ^" groups, and those polymers comprising -COOH or S0 ₃ H groups and quaternary ammonium groups.

 Amphoteric and / or cationic polymers preferred according to the invention are those polymers in which a cationic group is derived from at least one of the following monomers: (i) monomers having quaternary ammonium groups of the general formula (monol),

R -CH = CR ² -CO-Z- (C _n H _2n ) -N ⁽⁺⁾ R ² R ³ R ⁴ A ^(_) (monol)

in which R and R ² independently of one another represent hydrogen or a methyl group and R ³ , R ⁴ and R ⁵ independently of one another represent alkyl groups having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, Z denotes an NH group or an oxygen atom, n denotes an integer of 2 to 5 and A ^{<_) is} the anion of an organic or inorganic acid,

Monomers having quaternary ammonium groups of the general formula (Mono 2),

wherein R ⁶ and R ⁷ independently of one another represent a (C 1 to C ₄ ) -alkyl group, in particular a methyl group and

A ^"is the anion of an organic or inorganic acid,

(iii) monomeric carboxylic acids of the general formula (mono 3),

R ⁸ -CH = CR ⁹ -COOH (mono 3)

in which R ⁸ and R ^{9 are} independently hydrogen or methyl groups.

Particularly preferred are those polymers in which monomers of type (i) are used, in which R ³ , R ⁴ and R ^{5 are} methyl groups, Z is an NH group and A ^<_) a halide, methoxysulfate or ethoxysulfate ion is; Acrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride is a particularly preferred monomer (i). As the monomer (ii) for the polymers mentioned, acrylic acid is preferably used.

Particularly preferred amphoteric polymers are copolymers of at least one monomer (monol) or (mono 2) with the monomer (mono 3), in particular copolymers of the monomers (mono 2) and (mono 3). Very particularly preferably used according to the invention amphoteric polymers are copolymers of diallyl dimethyl ammonium chloride and acrylic acid. These copolymers are sold under the INCI name Polyquaternium-22, among others, with the trade name Merquat ^® 280 (Nalco). In addition, the amphoteric polymers of the invention may be used in addition to a monomer

(Monol) or (mono 2) and one monomer (mono 3) additionally one monomer (mono 4)

(iv) monomeric carboxylic acid amides of the general formula (mono 4),

in which R ⁰ and R independently of one another are hydrogen or methyl groups and R ^{2 is} a hydrogen atom or a (C 1 to C ₈ ) alkyl group.

Amphoteric polymers based on a comonomer (Mono4) which are very particularly preferably used according to the invention are terpolymers of diallyldimethylammonium chloride, acrylamide and acrylic acid. These copolymers are marketed ^® under the INCI name Polyquaternium-39, among others, with the trade name Merquat Plus 3330 (Nalco).

 The amphoteric polymers can generally be used both directly and in salt form, which is obtained by neutralization of the polymers, for example with an alkali metal hydroxide, according to the invention.

 The amphoteric polymers are contained in the agents according to the invention preferably in amounts of 0.01 to 10 wt .-%, based on the total agent. Amounts of 0.01 to 5 wt .-% are particularly preferred.

 As a further ingredient in addition to the compulsory components, the compositions according to the invention preferably contain at least one silicone polymer selected from the group of dimethiconols and / or the group of amino-functional silicones and / or the group of dimethicones and / or the group of cyclomethicones. These ingredients are described below.

 The dimethicones according to the invention can be both linear and branched as well as cyclic or cyclic and branched. Linear dimethicones can be represented by the following structural formula (Sil):

(SiR ₃ ) - O - (SiR ² ₂ - O -) x - (SiR ₃ ) (Sil)

 Branched dimethicones can be represented by the structural formula (Sil .1):

The radicals R and R ² are each independently hydrogen, a methyl radical, a C ² to C 30 linear, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon radical, a phenyl radical and / or an aryl radical. The numbers x, y and z are integers and each run independently from 0 to 50,000. The molecular weights of the dimethicones are between 1000 D and 10,000,000 D. The viscosities are between 100 and 10,000,000 cPs measured at 25 ° C. with the aid of a glass capillary viscometer according to the Dow Corning Corporate Test Method CTM 0004 of 20 July 1970. Preferred viscosities are between 1,000 and 5,000,000 cPs, most preferred viscosities are between 10,000 and 3,000,000 cps. The most preferred range is between 50,000 and 2,000,000 cps. Most preferred are viscosities around the range of about 60,000 cps. As an example, reference is made to the product "Dow Corning 200 with 60000 cSt".

 Particularly preferred cosmetic or dermatological preparations according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one silicone of the formula (Sil .2)

(CH ₃ ) ₃ Si - [0-Si (CH ₃ ) 2] x-0-Si (CH ₃ ) 3 (Sil. 2),

in which x is a number from 0 to 100, preferably from 0 to 50, more preferably from 0 to 20 and in particular 0 to 10.

 The dimethicones (Sil) are present in the compositions according to the invention in amounts of from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.01 to 8% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.1 to 7.5% by weight and in particular from 0.1 to 5 wt.% Based on the total composition.

Particularly preferred agents according to the invention contain one or more amino-functional silicones. Such silicones may e.g. by the formula (Si-2)

M (R _a Q _b SiO (4-ab) / 2) x (c SiO (4-c) / 2) y M (Si-2)

 Be described, taking in the above formula

 R is a hydrocarbon or a hydrocarbon radical having from 1 to about 6

 Carbon atoms,

Q is a polar radical of the general formula -R HZ,

 wherein

 R is a divalent linking group bonded to hydrogen and the radical Z composed of carbon and hydrogen atoms, carbon, hydrogen and oxygen atoms or carbon, hydrogen and nitrogen atoms, and

 Z is an organic, amino-functional group containing at least one amino-functional group;

a assumes values in the range of about 0 to about 2,

b takes values in the range of about 1 to about 3,

a + b is less than or equal to 3, and

c is a number in the range of about 1 to about 3, and

x is a number ranging from 1 to about 2,000, preferably from about 3 to about 50, and most preferably from about 3 to about 25, and

y is a number in the range of from about 20 to about 10,000, preferably from about 125 to about

10,000, and most preferably from about 150 to about 1, 000, and M is a suitable silicone end group, as is known in the art, preferably trimethylsiloxy.

Z is according to formula (Si-2) an organic, amino-functional radical containing at least one functional amino group. A possible formula for said Z is NH (CH ₂ ) z NH ₂ , where z is an integer greater than or equal to 1. Another possible formula for said Z is -NH (CH ₂ ) _Z (CH ₂ ) z _Z NH, wherein both z and zz are independently an integer greater than or equal to 1, this structure comprising diamino ring structures, such as piperazinyl , Said Z is most preferably an -NHCH ₂ CH ₂ NH ₂ radical. Another possible formula for said Z is - N (CH ₂ ) _Z (CH ₂ ) _ZZ NX ₂ or -NX ₂ , wherein each X of X _{2 is} independently selected from the group consisting of hydrogen and alkyl groups of 1 to 12 carbon atoms, and zz is 0.

Q according to formula (Si-2) is most preferably a polar amino-functional radical of formula - CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ NH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ NH ₂ .

 In the formula (Si-2), α assumes values in the range of 0 to 2, b takes values in the range of 2 to 3, a + b is less than or equal to 3, and c is a number in the range of 1 to 3. Suitable for the purposes of the invention are cationic silicone oils such as, for example, the commercially available products Dow Corning (DC) 929 Emulsion, DC 2-2078, DC 5-71 13, SM-2059 (General Electric) and SLM-55067 (Wacker).

 Particularly preferred agents according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one amino-functional silicone of the formula (Si 3-a)

in which m and n are numbers whose sum (m + n) is between 1 and 2,000, preferably between 50 and 150, where n preferably has values from 0 to 1999 and in particular from

49 to 149 and m preferably assumes values of 1 to 2000, in particular of 1 to 10.

 These silicones are named after the INCI declaration as trimethylsilylamodimethicones and are known, for example, under the name Q2-7224 (manufacturer: Dow Corning, a stabilized

Trimethylsilylamodimethicone).

Particular preference is also given to compositions according to the invention which contain at least one amino-functional silicone of the formula (Si-3b)

contain, in which

R is -OH, an (optionally ethoxylated and / or propoxylated) (C 1 -C ₂₀ ) -alkoxy group or a -CH ₃ group,

R1 is -OH, a (Ci to C ₂ o) -alkoxy group or a -CH ₃ -group and

m, n and o are numbers whose sum (m + n + o) is between 1 and 2000, preferably between 50 and 150, the sum (n + o) preferably having values from 0 to 1999 and in particular from 49 to 149 and m preferably assumes values of from 1 to 2000, in particular from 1 to 10.

 These silicones are according to the INCI declaration as amodimethicone, or as functionalized

Amodimethicones, such as bis (C13-15 alkoxy) PG amodimethicones (for example as

Commercial product: DC 8500 from Dow Corning available), Trideceth-9 PG-Amodimethicone

(For example, available as a commercial product Silcare Silicone SEA Clariant).

Suitable diquaternary silicones are selected from compounds of the general formula (Si3c)

[RR ² R ³ N ⁺ -A-SiR ⁷ R ⁸ - (O-SiR ⁹ R ⁰ ) _n -O-SiR R ¹² -A-N ⁺ R ⁴ R ⁵ R ⁶ ] 2X ^" (Si 3c)

where R 1 to R 6 independently of one another are C 1 to C 22 -alkyl radicals, which

Preferably at least one of the radicals has at least 8 C atoms and the remaining radicals have 1 to 4 C atoms,

the radicals R 7 to R 12, independently of one another, are identical or different and are C 1 - to C 10 -alkyl or phenyl, A is a divalent organic compound group,

n is a number from 0 to 200, preferably from 10 to 120, more preferably from 10 to 40, and X ^"is an anion.

The divalent linking group is preferably a C1 to C12 alkylene or alkoxyalkylene group which may be substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups. Particularly preferred is the group - (CH ₂ ) 3-0-CH ₂ -CH (OH) -CH ₂ -.

The anion X ^" can be a halide ion, an acetate, an organic carboxylate or a compound of the general formula RSO ₃ ^" , in which R has the meaning of C 1 -C 4 -alkyl radicals.

 A preferred diquaternary silicone has the general formula (Si3d)

[RN ⁺ Me ₂ -A- (SiMe ₂ O) _n -SiMe ₂ -A-N ⁺ Me ₂ R] 2 CH ₃ COO ^" (Si ₃ d),

where A is the group - (CH ₂ ) ₃ - O - CH ₂ - CH (OH) - CH ₂ -,

 R is an alkyl radical having at least 8 C atoms and n is a number from 10 to 120.

 Suitable silicone polymers having two terminal quaternary ammonium groups are among

INCI name Quaternium-80 known. These are dimethylsiloxanes with two terminal trialkylammonium groups. Such diquaternary polydimethylsiloxanes are marketed by Evonik under the trade names Abil ^® Quat 3270, 3272 and 3474th

Cosmetic or dermatological preparations preferred according to the invention are characterized in that, based on their weight, they contain 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably 0.01 to 8% by weight, particularly preferably 0.1 to 7.5% by weight and in particular from 0.2 to 5% by weight of amino-functional silicone (s) and / or diquaternary silicone.

 As silicone, the compositions according to the invention may comprise at least one polyammonium-polysiloxane compound. The polyammonium-polysiloxane compounds can be obtained, for example, under the trade name Baysilone® from GE Bayer Silicones. The products with the names Baysilone TP 391 1, SME 253 and SFE 839 are preferred. Very particular preference is given to the use of Baysilone TP 391 1 as the active component of the compositions according to the invention. The polyammonium-polysiloxane compounds are present in the compositions according to the invention in an amount of from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.01 to 7.5, particularly preferably from 0.01 to 5.0% by weight, very particularly preferably from 0 , 05 to 2.5 wt.% Each used in relation to the total composition.

 The cyclic dimethicones designated as cyclomethicones according to INCI are also preferably used according to the invention. Here, cosmetic or dermatological preparations according to the invention are preferred which contain at least one silicone of the formula (Si-4)

in which x is a number from 3 to 200, preferably from 3 to 10, more preferably from 3 to 7 and in particular 3, 4, 5 or 6 stands.

 Agents which are likewise preferred according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one silicone of the formula (Si-5)

R _{3 is} -Si- [O-SiR 2] x- (CH ₂ ) _n - [O-SiR ₂ ] _y -O-SiR 3 (Si-5),

in which R is identical or different radicals from the group -H, -phenyl, -benzyl, -CH ₂ -CH (CH ₃ ) Ph, the Ci _-2 o-alkyl radicals, preferably -CH ₃ , -CH ₂ CH ₃ , -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₃ , -CH (CH ₃ ) ₂ , -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ H ₃ , -CH ₂ CH (CH ₃ ) ₂ , -CH (CH ₃ ) CH ₂ CH ₃ , - C (CH ₃ ) ₃ , x and y are a number from 0 to 200, preferably from 0 to 10, more preferably from 0 to 7 and especially 0, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5 or 6, stand and n is a number from 0 to 10, preferably from 1 to 8 and in particular from 2, 3, 4, 5, 6.

As further silicones in addition to the dimethicones, dimethiconols, amodimethicones and / or cyclomethicones according to the invention, water-soluble silicones may be present in the compositions according to the invention. Corresponding hydrophilic silicones are selected, for example, from the compounds of the formulas (Si-6) and / or (Si-7). Particularly preferred water-soluble silicone-based surfactants are selected from the group of dimethicone copolyols which are preferably alkoxylated, in particular polyethoxylated or polypropoxylated.

 Dimethicone copolyols are understood according to the invention as meaning preferably polyoxyalkylene-modified dimethylpolysiloxanes of the general formulas (Si-6) or (Si-7):

in which the radical R represents a hydrogen atom, an alkyl group having 1 to 12 C atoms, an alkoxy group having 1 to 12 C atoms or a hydroxyl group, the radicals R 'and R "denote alkyl groups having 1 to 12 C atoms, x is an integer from 1 to 100, preferably from 20 to 30, y is an integer from 1 to 20, preferably from 2 to 10, and a and b are integers from 0 to 50, preferably from 10 to 30 ,

 Particularly preferred dimethicone copolyols according to the invention are, for example, the products sold commercially under the trade names SILWET (Union Carbide Corporation) and DOW CORNING. Particularly preferred dimethicone copolyols according to the invention are Dow Corning 190 and Dow Corning 193.

 The dimethicone copolyols are present in the compositions according to the invention in amounts of from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.01 to 8% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.1 to 7.5% by weight and in particular from 0.1 to 5% by weight. % of dimethicone copolyol based on the composition.

Finally, among the silicone compounds Dimethiconole (Si8) understood. The dimethiconols according to the invention can be both linear and branched as well as cyclic or cyclic and branched. Linear dimethiconols can be represented by the following structural formula (Si8-1):

(SiOHR ₂ ) - O - (SiR ² ₂ - O -) _x - (SiOHR ₂ ) (Si 8 - I)

Branched dimethiconols can be represented by the structural formula (Si8 - II):

The radicals R and R ² are each independently hydrogen, a methyl radical, a C ² to C 30 linear, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon radical, a phenyl radical and / or an aryl radical. The numbers x, y and z are integers and each run independently from 0 to 50,000. The molecular weights of the dimethiconols are between 1000 D and 10,000,000 D. The viscosities are between 100 and 10,000,000 cPs measured at 25 ° C. with the aid of a glass capillary viscometer according to the Dow Corning Corporate Test Method CTM 0004 of 20 July 1970. Preferred viscosities are between 1,000 and 5,000,000 cPs, most preferred viscosities are between 10,000 and 3,000,000 cps. The most preferred range is between 50,000 and 2,000,000 cps.

 Examples of such products include the following commercial products: Dow Corning 1 -1254 Fluid, Dow Coming 2-9023 Fluid, Dow Corning 2-9026 Fluid, Abil OSW 5 (Degussa Care Specialties), Dow Corning 1401 Fluid, Dow Corning 1403 Fluid Dow Corning 1501 Fluid, Dow Corning 1784 HVF Emulsion, Dow Corning 9546 Silicone Elastomer Blend, SM555, SM2725, SM2765, SM2785 (all four aforementioned GE Silicones), Wacker-Belsil CM 1000, Wacker-Belsil CM 3092, Wacker-Belsil CM 5040, Wacker-Belsil DM 3096, Wacker-Belsil DM 31 12 VP, Wacker-Belsil DM 8005 VP, Wacker-Belsil DM 60081 VP (all Wacker-Chemie GmbH mentioned above). The dimethiconols (Si8) are present in the compositions according to the invention in amounts of from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.01 to 8% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.1 to 7.5% by weight and in particular from 0.1 to 5% by weight of dimethiconol based on the composition.

Furthermore, cosmetic oils can additionally be used with the active ingredient combination (A) according to the invention. Preferably, these oil bodies have a melting point of less than 50 ° C, more preferably less than 45 ° C, most preferably less than 40 ° C, most preferably less than 35 ° C and most preferably the cosmetic oils are at a temperature less than 30 ° C flowable. In the following, these oils are defined and described in more detail.

 The natural and synthetic cosmetic oils include, for example:

vegetable oils. Examples of such oils are sunflower oil, olive oil, soybean oil, rapeseed oil, almond oil, jojoba oil, orange oil, wheat germ oil, peach kernel oil and the liquid portions of coconut oil. Also suitable, however, are other triglyceride oils such as the liquid portions of beef tallow as well as synthetic triglyceride oils. liquid paraffin oils, isoparaffin oils and synthetic hydrocarbons and di-n-alkyl ethers having a total of from 12 to 36 carbon atoms, in particular 12 to 24 carbon atoms, such as di-n-octyl ether, di-n-decyl ether, di-n-nonyl ether , Di-n-undecyl ether, di-n-dodecyl ether, n-hexyl n-octyl ether, n-octyl n-decyl ether, n-decyl n-undecyl ether, n-undecyl n-dodecyl ether and n-hexyl-n Undecyl ether and di-tert-butyl ether, di-iso-pentyl ether, di-3-ethyldecyl ether, tert-butyl-n-octyl ether, iso-pentyl-n-octyl ether and 2-methyl-pentyl-n-octyl ether. The compounds are available as commercial products 1, 3-di- (2-ethyl-hexyl) - cyclohexane (Cetiol ^® S), and di-n-octyl ether (Cetiol ^® OE) may be preferred.

In many cases, the agents contain at least one surface-active substance, whereby in principle both anionic and zwitterionic, ampholytic, nonionic and cationic surface-active substances are suitable. The choice of surfactants depends on the nature of the agent. In the case of a shampoo, in particular at least one surfactant is selected from the group of anionic, zwitterionic or nonionic surface-active substances. It is preferred here that at least one anionic and at least one zwitterionic surface-active substance is chosen. These surface-active substances are particularly preferably selected from the group of particularly mild surface-active substances. The ratio between anionic and zwitterionic surface-active substances is between 10: 1 and 1: 5. The ratio is particularly preferably 5: 1 to 1: 2.

 Suitable anionic surfactants (tanion) in preparations according to the invention are all anionic surfactants suitable for use on the human body. Typical examples of anionic surfactants are:

 linear and branched fatty acids with 8 to 30 carbon atoms (soaps),

Ethercarbonsäuren the formula R-0- (CH ₂ -CH ₂ 0) _x -CH ₂ -COOH, in which R is a linear alkyl group having 8 to 30 carbon atoms and x = 0 or 1 to 16 and their salts,

 Acylsarcosides having 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the acyl group,

 Acyltaurides having 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the acyl group,

 Acyl isethionates having 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the acyl group,

 Sulfobernsteinsäuremono- and dialkyl esters having 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and sulfosuccinic monoalkylpolyoxyethylester having 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and 1 to 6 oxyethyl groups.

 linear alkanesulfonates having 8 to 24 C atoms,

 linear alpha-olefin sulfonates having 8 to 24 C atoms,

 Alpha-sulfofatty acid methyl esters of fatty acids having 8 to 30 carbon atoms,

Alkyl sulfates and alkyl polyglycol ether sulfates of the formula R-O (CH ₂ -CH ₂ O) _x -OSO ₃ H, in which R is a preferably linear alkyl group having 8 to 30 C atoms and x = 0 or 1 to 12,

Hydroxysulfonates essentially corresponding to at least one of the following two formulas or their mixtures and salts thereof, CH ₃ - (CH ₂ ) _y -CHOH- (CH ₂ ) _p - (CH-SO ₃ M) - (CH ₂ ) _z -CH ₂ -O- (C _n H _2n O) _x -H, and / or CH ₃ - (CH ₂ ) _y - (CH-SO ₃ M) - (CH ₂ ) _p -CHOH- (CH ₂ ) _z - CH ₂ -O- (C _n H _2n O) _x -H where in both formulas y and z = 0 or integers from 1 to 18, p = 0, 1 or 2 and the sum (y + z + p) a number from 12 to 18, x = 0 or a number from 1 to 30 and n one integer from 2 to 4 and M = H or alkali metal, in particular sodium, potassium, lithium, alkaline earth metal, in particular magnesium, calcium, zinc and / or an ammonium ion, which may optionally be substituted, in particular mono-, di-, tri or tetraammonium ions having C1 to C4 alkyl, alkenyl or aryl radicals,

sulfated hydroxyalkylpolyethylene and / or hydroxyalkylene glycol ethers of the formula R - (CHOSO ₃ M) -CHR ³ - (OCHR ⁴ -CH ₂ ) n-OR ² with R ¹ , a linear alkyl radical having 1 to 24 C atoms, R ^{2 is} a R ^{1 is} hydrogen or a linear alkyl radical having 1 to 24 C atoms, R ^{4 is} hydrogen or a methyl radical and M is hydrogen, ammonium, alkylammonium, alkanolammonium, in which the Alkyl and alkanol radicals each have 1 to 4 carbon atoms, or a metal atom selected from lithium, sodium, potassium, calcium or magnesium and n represent a number in the range of 0 to 12 and further the total number of those contained in R and R ³ C atoms is 2 to 44,

 Sulfonates of unsaturated fatty acids having 8 to 24 carbon atoms and 1 to 6 double bonds, esters of tartaric acid and citric acid with alcohols which are adducts of about 2-15 molecules of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide with fatty alcohols having 8 to 22 carbon atoms,

 Alkyl and / or alkenyl ether phosphates of the formula

R (OCH ₂ CH ₂ ) _n -O- (PO-OX) -OR ² ,

in the R preferred for an aliphatic hydrocarbon radical having 8 to 30 carbon atoms, R ^{2 is} hydrogen, a radical (CH ₂ CH ₂ 0) _n R ² or X, n is from 1 to 10 and X is hydrogen, an alkali or Alkaline earth metal or NR ³ R ⁴ R ⁵ R ⁶ , where R ³ to R ⁶ independently of one another represent hydrogen or a C ¹ to C ₄ hydrocarbon radical,

sulfated fatty acid alkylene glycol esters of the formula RCO (AlkO) _n SO ₃ M

in the RCO-- for a linear or branched, aliphatic, saturated and / or unsaturated acyl radical having 6 to 22 C atoms, Alk for CH ₂ CH ₂ , CHCH ₃ CH ₂ and / or CH ₂ CHCH ₃ , n for numbers of 0 , 5 to 5 and M is a metal such as alkali metal, in particular sodium, potassium, lithium, alkaline earth metal, in particular magnesium, calcium, zinc, or ammonium ion, such as ⁺ NR ³ R ⁴ R ⁵ R ⁶ , with R ³ to R ⁶ independently of one another represent hydrogen or a C1 to C4 hydrocarbon radical,

 Monoglyceride sulfates and monoglyceride ether sulfates of the formula

R ⁸ OC- (OCH ₂ CH ₂ ) _x -OCH ₂ - [CHO (CH ₂ CH ₂ O) _y H] -CH ₂ O (CH ₂ CH ₂ O) _z -SO ₃ X,

in the R ⁸ CO for a linear or branched acyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, x, y and z in total for 0 or for numbers from 1 to 30, preferably 2 to 10, and X for an alkali metal or alkaline earth metal. Typical examples of monoglyceride (ether) sulfates suitable for the purposes of the invention are the reaction products of lauric acid monoglyceride, coconut fatty acid monoglyceride, palmitic acid monoglyceride, stearic acid monoglyceride, oleic acid monoglyceride and tallow fatty acid monoglyceride and their ethylene oxide adducts with sulfur trioxide or chlorosulfonic acid in the form of their sodium salts. Preferably monoglyceride sulfates are used, in which R ⁸ CO is a linear acyl radical having 8 to 18 carbon atoms,

- Amidethercarbonsäuren, R -CO-NR ² -CH ₂ CH ₂ -O- (CH ₂ CH ₂ 0) _n CH ₂ COOM, with R as a straight-chain or branched alkyl or alkenyl radical having a number of carbon atoms in the chain of 2 to 30, n is an integer from 1 to 20 and R ² is hydrogen, methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, n-butyl, t-butyl or iso-butyl and M is hydrogen or a metal such as alkali metal, in particular sodium, potassium, lithium, alkaline earth metal, in particular magnesium, calcium, zinc, or an ammonium ion, such as + NR ³ R ⁴ R ⁵ R ⁶ , with R ³ to R ⁶ independently of one another for hydrogen or a C1 to C4 hydrocarbon radical. Such products are obtainable, for example, by the company Chem Y under the product name Akypo ^®.

 Acylglutamates of the formula XOOC-CH 2 CH 2 CH (C (NH) OR) -COOX in which RCO is a linear or branched acyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms and 0 and / or 1, 2 or 3 double bonds and X is hydrogen, an alkali metal and / or alkaline earth metal, ammonium, alkylammonium, alkanolammonium or glucammonium,

Condensation products of a water-soluble salt of a water-soluble protein hydrolyzate with a C8-C30 fatty acid. Such products are available under the trademark Lamepon® ^®, Maypon ^®, Gluadin® ^®, Hostapon® ^® KCG or Amisoft ^® long been commercially.

 Alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycoside carboxylates, sulfates, phosphates and / or isethionates,

Acyl lactylates and

 Hydroxymischethersulfate.

If the mild anionic surfactants contain polyglycol ether chains, it is particularly preferred that they have a narrow homolog distribution. Further, in the case of mild anionic surfactants having polyglycol ether units, it is preferable that the number of glycol ether groups is 1 to 20, preferably 2 to 15, more preferably 2 to 12. Particularly mild anionic surfactants having polyglycol ether groups with no restricted homolog distribution can be obtained, for example on the one hand the number of polyglycol ether groups is 4 to 12 and Zn or Mg ions are selected as the counterion. One example is the commercial product Texapon.RTM ^® ASV.

Particularly suitable zwitterionic surfactants are the so-called betaines, such as N-alkyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example cocoalkyldimethylammonium glycinate, N-acylaminopropyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example cocoacylaminopropyldimethylammonium glycinate, and Alkyl-3-carboxymethyl-3-hydroxyethyl-imidazolines each having 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl or acyl group and Kokosacylaminoethylhydroxyethylcarboxymethylglycinat. A preferred zwitterionic surfactant is the fatty acid amide derivative known by the INCI name Cocamidopropyl Betaine.

Ampholytic surfactants (Tampho) are understood as meaning those surface-active compounds which are capable of forming internal salts. Examples of suitable ampholytic surfactants are N-alkylglycines, N-alkylpropionic acids, N-alkylaminobutyric acids, N-alkylimino-dipropionic acids, N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropylglycines, N-alkyltaurines, N-alkylsarcosines, 2-alkylaminopropionic acids and alkylaminoacetic acids each having about 8 to 24 C atoms in the alkyl group. Typical examples of amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants are alkylbetaines, alkylamidobetaines, aminopropionates, aminoglycinates, imidazolinium betaines and sulfobetaines. Particularly preferred ampholytic surfactants are N-cocoalkylaminopropionate, cocoacylaminoethylaminopropionate and the d ₂ -C ₈ -acylsarcosine.

Nonionic surfactants (Tnio) are for example

 Addition products of 2 to 50 moles of ethylene oxide and / or 0 to 5 moles of propylene oxide onto linear and branched fatty alcohols having 6 to 30 carbon atoms, the fatty alcohol polyglycol ethers or the fatty alcohol polypropyleneglycol ethers or mixed fatty alcohol polyethers,

 Addition products of 2 to 50 moles of ethylene oxide and / or 0 to 5 moles of propylene oxide to linear and branched fatty acids having 6 to 30 carbon atoms, the fatty acid polyglycol ethers or the Fettsäurepolypropylenglykolether or mixed fatty acid polyethers,

 Addition products of 2 to 50 mol of ethylene oxide and / or 0 to 5 mol of propylene oxide onto linear and branched alkylphenols having 8 to 15 C atoms in the alkyl group, the alkylphenol polyglycol ethers or the alkylpolypropylene glycol ethers, or mixed alkylpolyolpolyethers,

with a methyl or C ₂ - C ₆ - alkyl radical end-capped addition products of 2 to 50 moles of ethylene oxide and / or 0 to 5 moles of propylene oxide to linear and branched fatty alcohols having 8 to 30 carbon atoms, to fatty acids having 8 to 30 carbon atoms and with alkylphenols having 8 to 15 carbon atoms in the alkyl group, such as those available under the trade names Dehydol ^® LS, LT Dehydol ^® types (Cognis),

C 12 -C ₃₀ -fatty acid mono- and diesters of addition products of 1 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide with glycerol,

Addition products of 5 to 60 mol ethylene oxide onto castor oil and hydrogenated castor oil, polyol fatty acid esters, such as the commercially available product ^® Hydagen HSP (Cognis) or Sovermol ^® - types (Cognis),

 alkoxylated triglycerides,

 alkoxylated fatty acid alkyl esters of the formula (Tnio-1)

R CO- (OCH ₂ CHR ² ) _w OR ³ (Tnio-1)

in which R is CO for a linear or branched, saturated and / or unsaturated acyl radical with 6 to 22 carbon atoms, R ^{2 is} hydrogen or methyl, R ^{3 is} linear or branched

Alkyl radicals having 1 to 4 carbon atoms and w is from 1 to 20,

 Amine oxides,

- Hydroxymischether, R 0 [CH ₂ CH (CH 3) 0] _x (CH ² CHR ² 0) _y [CH ₂ CH (OH) R ³ ] _z with R standing for a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl and / or alkenyl radical with 2 to 30 C atoms, R ^{2 is} hydrogen, a methyl, ethyl, propyl or iso - propyl radical, R ^{3 is} a linear or branched alkyl radical having 2 to 30 C atoms, x is 0 or a number from 1 to 20, Y stands for a number from 1 to 30 and z stands for the number 1, 2, 3, 4 or 5.

 Sorbitan fatty acid esters and adducts of ethylene oxide with sorbitan fatty acid esters such as the polysorbates,

 Sugar fatty acid esters and addition products of ethylene oxide with sugar fatty acid esters,

Addition products of ethylene oxide to fatty acid alkanolamides and fatty amines,

 Sugar surfactants of the alkyl and alkenyl oligoglycoside type,

 Sugar surfactants of the fatty acid N-alkyl polyhydroxyalkylamide type,

 Fatty acid amide polyglycol ethers, fatty amine polyglycol ethers,

 Mixed ethers or mixed formals and polysorbates.

The surfactants (T) are used in amounts of 0.05-45% by weight, preferably 0-1-30% by weight and very particularly preferably 0.5-25% by weight, based on the total agent used according to the invention ,

 Emulsifiers which can be used according to the invention are, for example

 Addition products of 4 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide and / or 0 to 5 moles per propylene oxide to linear fatty alcohols having 8 to 22 carbon atoms, to fatty acids having 12 to 22 carbon atoms and to alkylphenols having 8 to 15 carbon atoms in the alkyl group,

C ₂ -C ₂ 2-fatty acid mono- and diesters of addition products of 1 to 30 mol ethylene oxide onto polyols containing 3 to 6 carbon atoms, in particular glycerol,

 Ethylene oxide and polyglycerol addition products to methyl glucoside fatty acid esters, fatty acid alkanolamides and fatty acid glucamides,

C ₈ -C ₂ 2-alkylmono- and -oligoglycosides and their ethoxylated analogues, with degrees of oligomerization of from 1, 1 to 5, in particular 1, 2 to 2.0, and glucose as sugar component being preferred,

Glucosides mixtures of alkyl (oligo) and fatty alcohols, for example, the commercially available product ^® Montanov 68,

Addition products of from 5 to 60 mol of ethylene oxide onto castor oil and hydrogenated castor oil, partial esters of polyols having 3-6 carbon atoms with saturated fatty acids having 8 to 22 carbon atoms, Sterols, both from animal tissue (zoosterols, cholesterol, lanosterol) and from plant fats (phytosterols, ergosterol, stigmasterol, sitosterol) or from fungi and yeasts (mycosterols),

 Phospholipids (lecithins, phopshatidylcholines),

 Fatty acid esters of sugars and sugar alcohols, such as sorbitol,

 Polyglycerols and polyglycerol derivatives such as polyglycerol poly-12-hydroxystearate

(Dehymuls ^® PGPH commercial product).

The agents according to the invention preferably contain the emulsifiers in amounts of 0.1 to 25% by weight, in particular 0.5 to 15% by weight, based on the total agent.

 The anionic polymers are anionic polymers which have carboxylate and / or sulfonate groups. Examples of anionic monomers from which such polymers may consist are acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, crotonic acid, maleic anhydride and 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid. The acidic groups may be wholly or partly present as sodium, potassium, ammonium, mono- or triethanolammonium salt. Preferred monomers are 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid and acrylic acid.

Anionic polymers which contain 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid as the sole or co-monomer can be found to be particularly effective, it being possible for the sulfonic acid group to be wholly or partly present as sodium, potassium, ammonium, mono- or triethanolammonium salt ,

More preferably, the homopolymer of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropansulfon acid, which is commercially available, for example under the name Rheothik ^® 1 1-80 is.

Within this embodiment, it may be preferable to use copolymers of at least one anionic monomer and at least one nonionic monomer. With regard to the anionic monomers, reference is made to the substances listed above. Preferred nonionic monomers are acrylamide, methacrylamide, acrylic esters, methacrylic esters, vinylpyrrolidone, vinyl ethers and vinyl esters.

Preferred anionic copolymers are acrylic acid-acrylamide copolymers and in particular polyacrylamide copolymers with sulfonic acid-containing monomers. Such a polymer is contained in the commercial product Sepigel ^® 305 from SEPPIC.

Also sold under the name Simulgel ^® 600 as a compound with isohexadecane and polysorbate-80 Natriumacryloyldimethyltaurat copolymers have proved to be particularly effective according to the invention.

Likewise preferred anionic homopolymers are uncrosslinked and crosslinked polyacrylic acids. Allyl ethers of pentaerythritol, sucrose and propylene may be preferred crosslinking agents. Such compounds are for example available under the trademark Carbopol ^® commercially.

Copolymers of maleic anhydride and methyl vinyl ether, especially those with crosslinks, are also color-retaining polymers. A 1, 9-decadiene crosslinked maleic acid methyl vinyl ether copolymer is available under the name ^® Stabileze QM. The anionic polymers are preferably contained in the agents according to the invention in amounts of from 0.05 to 10% by weight, based on the total agent. Amounts of 0, 1 to 5 wt .-% are particularly preferred.

An inventively particularly preferred polyurethane is available under the trade name Luviset.RTM ^® PUR (BASF).

 In a further embodiment, the agents according to the invention may contain nonionogenic polymers.

 Suitable nonionic polymers are, for example:

Vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl ester copolymers, as sold, for example, under the trademark Luviskol ^® (BASF). Luviskol ^® VA 64 and Luviskol ^® VA 73, each vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acetate copolymers, are also preferred nonionic polymers. Cellulose ethers such as hydroxypropyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl cellulose and hydroxypropylcellulose Methylhy-, as sold for example under the trademark Culminal® ^® and Benecel ^® (AQUALON) and Natrosol ^® grades (Hercules).

Starch and its derivatives, in particular starch, such as Structure XL ^® (National Starch), a multifunctional, salt-tolerant starch;

 shellac

Polyvinylpyrrolidones, as sold for example under the name Luviskol ^® (BASF).

 The nonionic polymers are preferably contained in the compositions according to the invention in amounts of from 0.05 to 10% by weight, based on the total agent. Amounts of 0, 1 to 5 wt .-% are particularly preferred.

 It is also possible according to the invention that the preparations used contain a plurality of, in particular two different polymers of the same charge and / or in each case an ionic and an amphoteric and / or nonionic polymer.

 The polymers (P) are preferably present in the compositions used according to the invention in amounts of from 0.01 to 30% by weight, based on the total composition. Amounts of from 0.01 to 25, in particular from 0.01 to 15 wt .-%, are particularly preferred.

 With particular preference the compositions according to the invention contain fatty substances (fat) as further active ingredient. Fat substances (fat) are understood to mean fatty acids, fatty alcohols, natural and synthetic waxes, which can be in solid form as well as liquid in aqueous dispersion, and natural and synthetic cosmetic oil components.

As fatty acids (Fatac) can be used linear and / or branched, saturated and / or unsaturated fatty acids having 6 to 30 carbon atoms. Preference is given to fatty acids having 10 to 22 carbon atoms. Among these could be mentioned, for example, isostearic as the commercial products Emersol ^® 871 and Emersol ^® 875, and isopalmitic acids such as the commercial product Edenor ^® IP 95, and all other under the trade names Edenor ^® (Cognis) distributed fatty acids. Further typical examples of such fatty acids are caproic, caprylic, 2-ethylhexanoic, capric, lauric, isotridecanoic, myristic, palmitic, palmitoleic, stearic, isostearic, oleic, elaidic, petroselic, linoleic, linolenic as well as their technical mixtures. Particularly preferred are usually the fatty acid cuttings obtainable from coconut oil or palm oil; In particular, the use of stearic acid is usually preferred.

 The amount used is 0, 1-15 wt.%, Based on the total mean. The amount is preferably 0.5-10% by weight, with amounts of 1-5% by weight being particularly advantageous.

Fatty alcohols (Fatal) may be used are saturated, mono- or polyunsaturated, branched or unbranched fatty alcohols with C ₆ - C ₃₀ -, preferably C ₀ - C ₂₂ -, and most preferably d ₂ - C ₂₂ - carbon atoms. Decanols, octanols, dodecadienol, decadienol, oleyl alcohol, eruca alcohol, ricinoleic alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, caprylic alcohol, capric alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol are, for example, decanol, octanolol, dodecadienol, decadienol , as well as their Guerbet alcohols, this list should have exemplary and non-limiting character. However, the fatty alcohols are derived from preferably natural fatty acids, which can usually be based on recovery from the esters of fatty acids by reduction. Also usable according to the invention are those fatty alcohol cuts which represent a mixture of different fatty alcohols. Such substances are, for example, under the names Stenol ^® such as Stenol ^® 1618 or Lanette ^® such as Lanette ^® O or Lorol ^®, for example, Lorol ^® C8, Lorol C14 ^®, Lorol C18 ^{®, ®} Lorol C8-18, HD-Ocenol ^®, Crodacol ^® such as Crodacol ^® CS, Novol ^®, Eutanol ^® G, Guerbitol ^® 16, Guerbitol ^® 18, Guerbitol ^® 20, Isofol ^® 12, Isofol ^® 16, Isofol ^® 24, Isofol ^® 36, Isocarb ^® 12, Isocarb ^® 16 or acquire Isocarb® ^® 24 for sale. Of course, wool wax alcohols, as are commercially available, for example under the names of Corona ^®, White Swan ^®, Coronet ^® or Fluilan ^® can be used according to the invention. The fatty alcohols are used in amounts of 0.1 to 30% by weight, based on the total preparation, preferably in amounts of 0.1 to 20% by weight.

 As natural or synthetic waxes (Fatwax), solid paraffins or isoparaffins, carnauba waxes, beeswaxes, candelilla waxes, ozokerites, ceresin, spermaceti, sunflower wax, fruit waxes such as apple wax or citrus wax, microwaxes of PE or PP can be used according to the invention. Such waxes are available, for example, from Kahl & Co., Trittau.

The amount used is 0, 1-50 wt.% Based on the total agent, preferably 0, 1 to 20 wt.% And particularly preferably 0, 1 to 15 wt.% Based on the total agent. The total amount of oil and fat components in the compositions according to the invention is usually 0.5-75% by weight, based on the total agent. Amounts of 0.5-35 wt .-% are preferred according to the invention.

 Another inventive synergistic active ingredient in the compositions according to the invention with the active ingredient complex according to the invention are protein hydrolysates and / or derivatives thereof (P).

 According to the invention, protein hydrolysates of both vegetable and animal or marine or synthetic origin can be used.

Animal protein hydrolysates are, for example, elastin, collagen, keratin, silk and milk protein hydrolysates, which may also be present in the form of salts. Such products are, for example, under the trademarks Dehylan ^® (Cognis), Promois® ^® (Interorgana) Collapuron ^® (Cognis), Nutrilan® ^® (Cognis), Gelita-Sol ^® (German Gelatinefabriken Stoess & Co), Lexein ^® (Inolex) and kerasol tm ^® (Croda) sold.

Further preferred vegetable protein hydrolysates according to the invention are, for example, soybean, almond, pea, moringa, potato and wheat protein hydrolysates. Such products are, for example, under the trademarks Gluadin ^® (Cognis), diamine ^® (Diamalt) ^® (Inolex), Hydrosoy ^® (Croda), hydro Lupine ^® (Croda), hydro Sesame ^® (Croda), Hydro tritium ^® (Croda), Crotein ^® (Croda) and Puricare ^® LS 9658 from Laboratoires Serobiologiques.

Further preferred protein hydrolysates according to the invention are of maritime origin. These include, for example, collagen hydrolyzates of fish or algae as well as protein hydrolysates of mussels or pearl hydrolyzates. Examples of pearl extracts according to the invention are the commercial products Pearl Protein Extract BG ^® or Crodarom ^® Pearl.

 The protein hydrolysates (P) are present in the compositions in concentrations of 0.001% by weight to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.05% by weight to 15% by weight and most preferably in amounts of 0.05% by weight. up to 5% by weight.

The effect of the compositions according to the invention can be further increased by a 2-pyrrolidinone-5-carboxylic acid and its derivatives (J). Preference is given to the sodium, potassium, calcium, magnesium or ammonium salts in which the ammonium ion carries, in addition to hydrogen, one to three C 1 to C ₄ alkyl groups. The sodium salt is most preferred. The amounts used in the compositions according to the invention are from 0.05 to 10% by weight, based on the total agent, more preferably 0, 1 to 5, and in particular 0.1 to 3% by weight.

 Another preferred group of ingredients of the compositions according to the invention with the active ingredient complex according to the invention are vitamins, provitamins or vitamin precursors. Vitamins, pro-vitamins and vitamin precursors are particularly preferred, which are assigned to the groups A, B, C, E, F and H.

The group of substances referred to as vitamin A include retinol (vitamin A-1) and 3,4-didehydroretinol (vitamin A ₂ ). The ß-carotene is the provitamin of retinol. As vitamin A component according to the invention, for example, vitamin A acid and its esters, Vitamin A aldehyde and vitamin A alcohol and its esters such as the palmitate and the acetate into consideration. The agents according to the invention preferably contain the vitamin A component in amounts of 0.05-1% by weight, based on the total preparation.

The vitamin B group or the vitamin B complex include u. a.

 1. Vitamin B-ι (thiamine)

2. Vitamin B ₂ (riboflavin)

3. Vitamin B ₃ . Under this name, the compounds nicotinic acid and nicotinamide (niacinamide) are often performed. Preferred according to the invention is the nicotinic acid amide which is contained in the agents used according to the invention preferably in amounts of from 0.05 to 1% by weight, based on the total agent.

4. Vitamin B ₅ (pantothenic acid, panthenol and pantolactone). Panthenol and / or pantolactone are preferably used in the context of this group. Derivatives of panthenol which can be used according to the invention are, in particular, the esters and ethers of panthenol and also cationically derivatized panthenols. Individual representatives are, for example, panthenol triacetate, panthenol monoethyl ether and its monoacetate, as well as cationic panthenol derivatives. The said compounds of the vitamin B ₅ type are preferably contained in the agents according to the invention in amounts of 0.05-10% by weight, based on the total agent. Amounts of 0, 1-5 wt .-% are particularly preferred.

5. Vitamin B ₆ (pyridoxine and pyridoxamine and pyridoxal).

 The vitamins of the B series and of the B5 series are particularly preferred from the vitamins of the B series.

 Vitamin C (ascorbic acid). Vitamin C is used in the inventive compositions preferably in amounts of 0, 1 to 3 wt .-%, based on the total agent. Use in the form of palmitic acid ester, glucosides or phosphates may be preferred. The use in combination with tocopherols may also be preferred.

 Vitamin E (tocopherols, especially α-tocopherol). Tocopherol and its derivatives, which include in particular the esters such as the acetate, the nicotinate, the phosphate and the succinate, are preferably present in the agents according to the invention in amounts of 0.05-1% by weight, based on the total agent.

 Vitamin F. The term "vitamin F" is usually understood as meaning essential fatty acids, in particular linoleic acid, linolenic acid and arachidonic acid.

 Vitamin H. Vitamin H is the compound (3aS, 4S, 6aR) -2-oxohexahydrothienol [3,4-d] - imidazole-4-valeric acid, for which, however, the trivial name biotin has meanwhile prevailed. Biotin is preferred in the agents according to the invention in amounts of from 0.0001 to

1, 0 wt .-%, in particular in amounts of 0.001 to 0.01 wt .-%.

 The compositions according to the invention preferably contain vitamins, provitamins and

Vitamin precursors from groups A, B, E and H. Vitamin B, and biotin are most preferred. Finally, the use of plant extracts (L) in the compositions according to the invention gives rise to further advantages. The extracts of green tea, oak bark, stinging nettle, witch hazel, hops, henna, chamomile, burdock root, horsetail, hawthorn, lime blossom, almond, aloe vera, spruce needle, horse chestnut, sandalwood, juniper, coconut, mango, apricot, lime , Wheat, kiwi, melon, orange, grapefruit, sage, rosemary, birch, mallow, valerian, meadowfoam, quenelle, yarrow, thyme, lemon balm, toadstool, coltsfoot, marshmallow, meristem, ginseng, coffee, cocoa, moringa, ginger root and ayurvedic Plant extracts such as Aegle Marmelos (Bilwa), Cyperus Rotundus (Nagar Motha), Emblica Officinalis (Amalki), Morida Citrifolia (Ashyuka), Tinospora Cordifolia (Guduchi), Santalum album, (Chandana), Crocus Sativus (Kumkuma), Cinnamonum Zeylanicum and Nelumbo nucifera (Kamala), sweet grasses such as wheat, barley, rye, oats, spelled, corn, the various varieties of millet (millet, crab, millet as examples), cane, ryegrass, wi foxtail, oat grass, ostrich grass, meadow fescue, whistling grass, bamboo, cotton grass, lamprey grass, Andropogonodeae (Imperata Cylindrica also called grass or cogon grass), buffalo grass, mud grass, canine grasses, love grasses, cymbopogon (lemongrass), oryzeae (rice), zizania (wild rice) , Marram grass, perennial grass, honey grasses, grasses, bluegrass, couch grass and Echinacea, in particular Echinacea angustifolia DC, Echinacea paradoxa (Norton), Echinacea simulata, E. atrorubens, E. tennesiensis, Echinacea strigosa (McGregor), Echinacea laevigata, Echinacea purpurea ( L.) Moench and Echinacea pallida (Nutt), all types of wine and Perikarp preferred by Litchie chinensis.

 The plant extracts can be used according to the invention both in pure and in diluted form. If they are used in diluted form, they usually contain about 2 to 80 wt .-% of active substance and as a solvent used in their extraction agent or extractant mixture.

 Furthermore, the cosmetic agents may contain other active ingredients, auxiliaries and additives, such as

 Structurants such as maleic acid and lactic acid,

 Purine and purine derivatives,

 taurine,

 Swelling agents such as urea, allantoin, carbonates or hydantoin,

 Ubiquinone, especially coenzyme Q10 or plastoquinone,

 Dimethylisosorbide and cyclodextrins,

 Dyes for staining the agent,

 Anti-dandruff agents such as Piroctone Olamine, Zinc Omadine and Climbazole,

 Complexing agents such as EDTA, NTA, β-alaninediacetic acid and phosphonic acids,

 Opacifiers such as latex, styrene / PVP and styrene / acrylamide copolymers

 Pearlescing agents such as ethylene glycol mono- and distearate and PEG-3-distearate,

pigments Stabilizing agent for hydrogen peroxide and other oxidizing agents,

Propellants such as propane-butane mixtures, N ₂ O, dimethyl ether, C0 ₂ and air,

 antioxidants

 Perfume oils, fragrances and fragrances.

With regard to further optional components and the amounts of these components used, reference is expressly made to the relevant manuals known to the person skilled in the art.

As already mentioned, the high care effect of the agents according to the invention is of particular importance, in particular, since it gives excellent results even in the presence of oxidizing agents, for example in the context of oxidative hair dyeing.

 A second subject of the invention is therefore a method for hair treatment, in which a cosmetic composition according to claim 1 is applied to the hair and rinsed after a contact time of the hair.

 The exposure time is preferably a few seconds to 100 minutes, more preferably 1 to 50 minutes and most preferably 1 to 30 minutes.

The following examples are intended to illustrate the subject matter of the present invention without, however, limiting it.

Examples:

All quantities are, unless otherwise stated, parts by weight. All of the following formulations were provided using known manufacturing techniques

1. Proof of effect

preparation

 Strands from the company Alkinco (1.0 g, code 6634) were shampooed with 2.0 g of a solution of 10.0% by weight of sodium lauryl ether sulfate (2EO) for 2 minutes. The mixture was then rinsed for 1 minute under running water at 23 ° C. and the hair strand was dried with a hair dryer. This was followed by a conventional perm treatment with 2.0 g of the commercial product Poly Lock Normal Perm. As part of this perming treatment, the fibers were exposed in a first step for 40 minutes at room temperature of the reducing solution (containing 7.9 wt .-% thioglycolic acid), rinsed with pure water at a temperature of 23 ° C for 1 minute under running water, with dried in a towel and then fixed at room temperature for 10 minutes with 2.0 g of an oxidation solution. The oxidation solution contained 2.6% by weight of hydrogen peroxide. After the oxidative treatment, the fibers were again rinsed for 1 minute under running water at 23 ° C and then dried with a hair dryer. The permanent wave treatment was carried out twice under identical conditions.

a) aftertreatment

 The strands were each at a temperature of 32 ° C for 30 minutes in a 1% aqueous solution of the respective active ingredients with 0.2 wt.% Ceteareth-25 as an emulsifier at a pH of 7, which was adjusted with sodium hydroxide or hydrochloric acid , dipped. The tested formulations can be taken from the table - tested formulations. After treatment with the respective active compound composition, the hair strands of the rinse-off formulations were rinsed with clear water for 1 minute, air dried and allowed to rest for 16 hours. In contrast, the hair strands of the leave-on formulations were not rinsed but air dried and allowed to rest for 16 hours. Rinse-off and leave-on formulas are identical in their composition. Only the application was carried out once by rinsing after the exposure time (rinse-off) and once as remaining on the hair (leave-on).

b) Proof of the hair-structuring effect by means of HP-DSC

 By means of a DSC analysis (Perkin Elmer DSC-7), the melting points shown in Figure 1 were determined. A detailed description of the method can be found for example in DE 196 173 95 A1.

The significance level of the oil complexes according to the invention over the value for permed hair without active ingredient is> 95%. The values can be found in the following diagram 1. Table 1: Test formulations (amounts in wt.

 Graphic 1: Measurement results

 As is apparent from the above graph, the mixtures of the oils in each case improve the structure of the damaged hair. In the case of the mixture of seven oils even the hair structure is strengthened so far that the quality of the untreated hair is reached again. 2. Further examples

Shampoo: Sh1 Sh2 Sh3 Sh4

Texapon N 25 50.0 50.0 50.0 50.0

Dehyton G 10.0 10.0 10.0 10.0

Salicylic acid 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2

D-panthenol (75%) 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5

Na benzoate 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5

Polyquaternium-10 0,5 0,5 0,5 0,5

Citric acid, anhydrous 0,5 0,5 0,5 0,5

Euperlan PK 3000 AM 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0

Sodium chloride 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5

Casein 1, 0 1, 0 1, 0 1, 0

Cetiol HE 1, 0 1, 0 1, 0 1, 0

PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil 0.8 0.8 0.8 0.8

Oil complex 5 0,3 - - -

Oil Complex 6 - 0.3 - -

Oil Complex 7 - - 0,3 0,5

Preservation q.s. q.s. q.s. q.s.

Water ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100

Hair conditioner:

 S1 S2 S3 S4

 Stenol 1618 3.0 3.0 3.0 3.0

 Genamine KDPM 1, 0 1, 0 1, 0 1, 0

 Rheocare Ultragel 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0

Panthenol - 0,2 - 0,2 Olcomplex 5 0,5 - - -

Olcomplex 6 - 0.5 - -

 Olcomplex 7 - - 0,5 0,8

 Niacinamide 0.2 0.2 - -

 Methylparaben 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2

 Perfume 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3

 Phenoxyethanol 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4

 Water ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100

The pH of all formulations was adjusted to 2 to 4.

Hair Treatment:

 The pH of all formulations was adjusted to 2 to 4.

Claims

claims:

1. A cosmetic composition for the treatment of keratinous fibers, in particular human hair, characterized in that it contains in a cosmetic carrier at least four different natural oils.

 2. Cosmetic composition according to claim 1, characterized in that it contains at least five different natural oils.

 3. Cosmetic compositions according to claim 1, characterized in that it contains at least six different natural oils.

 4. Cosmetic compositions according to claim 1, characterized in that it contains at least seven different natural oils.

 Cosmetic composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 4, characterized in that all the natural oils present in the composition are selected from apricot kernel oil, apple kernel oil, argan oil, babassu oil, cottonseed oil, bitter almond oil, cashew oil, cupuacum oil, thistle oil, peanut oil, pomegranate seed oil, grapefruit seed oil, rose hip kernel oil , Hemp oil, hazelnut oil, raspberry seed oil, elderberry seed oil, honeydew melon oil, currant seed oil, jojoba oil, cocoa butter, cocoa oil, coffee oil, camellia oil, cherry oil, coconut oil, pumpkin seed oil, laurel oil, macadamia nut oil, corn oil, almond oil, mango butter, passion fruit oil, marula oil, melon oil, poppy oil, evening primrose oil, olive oil , Olive seed oil, Papaya seed oil, Patchouli oil, Peach kernel oil, Plum kernel oil, Pecan nut oil, Perilla oil, Pistachio oil, Cranberry seed oil, Rice germ oil, Rice oil, Castor oil, Sacha inchi oil, Sea buckthorn oil, Sea buckthorn seed oil, Black cumin oil, Mustard oil, Sesame oil, Shea butter, Soybean oil, Sunflower oil, Sq ualone oil, sweet almond oil, tea tree oil, grape seed oil, ucuuba butter, walnut oil, watermelon oil, wheat germ oil, meadowfoam oil or wild rose oil.

 6. Cosmetic compositions according to one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that at least four of the natural oils are selected from apricot kernel oil, argan oil, macadamia nut oil, olive oil, sesame oil, almond oil, especially sweet almond oil.

 7. A method for the treatment of keratinous fibers, characterized in that a cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6 is applied to the keratinic fibers and rinsed after a contact time of a few seconds up to 45 minutes again.

 8. Use of a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6 for deep care, that is, the regeneration of the fibers from within.

 9. Use of a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6 for the reduction of hair breakage.

 10. Use of a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6 for the reduction of Haasspliss.