CN110461306B - Essential oil hair care composition containing conjugated unsaturated natural oil - Google Patents

Essential oil hair care composition containing conjugated unsaturated natural oil Download PDF

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Publication number
CN110461306B
CN110461306B CN201880019067.6A CN201880019067A CN110461306B CN 110461306 B CN110461306 B CN 110461306B CN 201880019067 A CN201880019067 A CN 201880019067A CN 110461306 B CN110461306 B CN 110461306B
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oil
care composition
hair care
hair
conjugated unsaturated
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CN110461306A (en
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赵文忠
李洪波
洪盛杰
林学镁
胡卫华
陈顺章
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Lafang China Co ltd
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    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/36Carboxylic acids; Salts or anhydrides thereof
    • A61K8/361Carboxylic acids having more than seven carbon atoms in an unbroken chain; Salts or anhydrides thereof
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/89Polysiloxanes
    • A61K8/891Polysiloxanes saturated, e.g. dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, C24-C28 methicone or stearyl dimethicone
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/92Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof
    • A61K8/922Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof of vegetable origin
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/12Preparations containing hair conditioners

Abstract

The invention belongs to the field of daily chemicals, and particularly relates to an essential oil hair care composition containing conjugated unsaturated natural oil. The essential oil hair care composition consists of natural grease accounting for 0.325-45.5% of the weight of the composition and volatile carrier oil accounting for the balance. The hair care composition of the invention is a hair care composition containing conjugated unsaturated natural oil and having synergistic effect, and has the advantages that: film forming property, hair absorbability, moisture degree, repairing effect and glossiness are all good.

Description

Essential oil hair care composition containing conjugated unsaturated natural oil
Technical Field
The invention belongs to the field of daily chemicals, and particularly relates to an essential oil hair care composition containing conjugated unsaturated natural oil.
Background
The surface of the skin horny layer is provided with a layer of sebum secreted by sebaceous glands of the skin, lipid produced by keratinocytes, sweat secreted by sweat glands and grease secreted by sebaceous glands are fused on the surface of the skin according to a certain proportion to form a layer of film, namely a sebum film. The pH of the sebaceous membrane is usually maintained in a weakly acidic state of 5-6 to maintain the skin healthy. Like the stratum corneum, the surface of each hair of the human body is covered with multiple layers of hair scales called the cortex layer, which contains lipid components including cholesterol, cholesterol esters, cholesterol sulfates, free fatty acids, triglycerides, paraffin, squalene, ceramide, 18-methyl eicosanoic acid, etc. about 4% by weight of the hair, which are important substances for keeping the hair hydrophobic and maintaining the hair natural and healthy.
In daily life, various factors such as ultraviolet rays, environmental factors, shampoo or shampoo modes and the like cause the naturally occurring grease on the surface of the hair to be peeled off, eluted or destroyed, and the hair becomes fragile and easy to fold, and the luster is reduced. Therefore, there is a need for a technique for hair cortex film formation and repair.
The natural oil and the minerals have the effect of conditioning the hair, but the natural oil contains glyceride of saturated and unsaturated fatty acid, belongs to polar oil, and has better affinity with lipoprotein on the hair, so that the natural oil has better fusion and permeation characteristics on the hair, wherein some natural oil also has film forming effect.
Natural oils such as some vegetable oils and vegetable essential oils may better protect damaged hair because the vegetable oils and vegetable essential oils can reduce friction of hair and enhance the brightness of hair. As for the care effect, the natural grease with good diffusion and absorption properties can enhance the hydrophobicity of hair proteins according to the diffusion and absorption properties of the natural grease on the hair, so that the occurrence of water swelling, mechanical friction and damage of the hair in the daily hair cleaning process is reduced.
The selection of natural oils and fats plays an important role in hair care. The natural oil and fat is obtained from the flower, leaf, root, neck, fruit, etc. of the plant by a suitable extraction means according to the kind of the plant. The essential difference between the vegetable oil and the mineral oil and the animal oil in the natural oil is that the vegetable oil contains unsaturated fatty acids. From the aspect of nutrition, unsaturated fatty acid (containing carbon-carbon double bond) can play a role in nutrition and regulating human muscle energy. The number of unsaturated fatty acid double bonds is also divided into monounsaturated fatty acids such as oleic acid, polyunsaturated fatty acids such as linoleic acid, linolenic acid, and fatty acids of conjugated structure such as conjugated linolenic acid, etc. Some vegetable oils or organic compounds have fatty acids with two double bonds separated by a single bond in the molecular structure, which are denoted by-c=c-, and are called conjugated double bonds, and oils containing conjugated double bonds are easily polymerized to form films, and oils containing conjugated double bonds are often divided into drying oil ranges in paints, and the films are formed quickly and have good brightness. The selection and use of natural oils has been found to play an important role in skin and hair care. See table 1 (saturated and unsaturated fatty acids and their drying rates).
TABLE 1
In Table 1, the molecular formula of stearic acid C18:0 is CH3 (CH 2) 16COOH, the molecular formula of oleic acid C18:1 is CH3 (CH 2) 7CH=CH (CH 2) 7COOH, the molecular formula of linoleic acid C18:2 is CH3 (CH 2) 4CH=CHCH2CH=CH (CH 2) 7COOH, and the molecular formula of linolenic acid C18:3 is CH3CH2CH=CHCH2CH=CH (CH 2) 7COOH.
In addition, the molecular structural formula of the vegetable oil and fat containing conjugated double bonds in the molecule, such as keto acid, is as follows: CH3 (CH 2) 3ch=ch-ch=chch=ch (CH 2) 7COOH. The tung oil molecular structure contains fatty acid with two single bonds separated, and the fatty acid has vegetable oil similar to conjugated double bonds, belongs to drying oil, has iodine value of more than 130, and has good film forming property.
The film forming property of natural oils and fats is related to the drying property of the oils and fats such as oxidation rate, saturation and unsaturation degree and iodine number, etc., and the natural oils and fats are classified according to the drying property and may be classified into dry vegetable oils (iodine number > 130), semi-dry vegetable oils (iodine number 100-130) and dry vegetable oils (iodine number < 100), which often contain higher linolenic acid, and some dry vegetable oils also contain conjugated unsaturated double bonds, and thin layers coated with the same can be oxidatively dried in air to become firm films such as safflower oil, sunflower oil, linseed oil, walnut oil, perilla oil, tung oil, etc., which have very high linoleic acid and linolenic acid, and tung oil contains fatty acids of conjugated double bonds, and tung oil serves as important film forming property and gloss in paint. In a word, the drying grease has the characteristics of good film forming, quick absorption and non-sticky property in skin care and hair care products; the content of oleic acid and linoleic acid in the semi-dry oil is relatively high, the semi-dry oil can be in a colloid state after being coated into a thin layer in the air, the semi-dry oil still can not be completely dried to form a film after 18 days, an oxidized film formed after the standing time is prolonged is also weak, the oxidized film still can be melted and has partial solubility, the semi-dry oil comprises rice bran oil, corn germ oil, soybean oil, safflower seed oil, sunflower seed oil, sesame oil, cotton seed oil, rubber seed oil and wheat germ oil, and the like, and although the film forming performance of the semi-dry natural oil is inferior to that of the dry natural oil, the semi-dry natural oil has certain absorptivity and good moistening degree, and the disadvantage of poor film forming is that the film forming property is also poor, so the smoothness is poor; nondrying oils, which are applied in thin layers, do not oxidize the conjunctiva after prolonged exposure to air, do not gel when heated, such as olive oil, tea oil, peanut oil, coconut oil, palm oil and most animal oils, have good moisturizing and moisturizing effects in skin and hair care products, but are poor in absorbency and film forming properties. Therefore, in combination with the dryness, semi-dryness and non-dryness characteristics of natural vegetable oils, it is necessary to organically combine the drying oils, semi-drying oils and non-drying oils and to develop a repair hair care product by comprehensively utilizing their respective moisturizing and film-forming characteristics.
The invention aims to develop a hair care composition with repairing effect according to the characteristics of saturation and unsaturation, dryness, semi-dryness and non-drying of natural grease, and the hair care composition contains grease of conjugated unsaturated fatty acid.
Disclosure of Invention
The invention aims to provide an essential oil hair care composition containing conjugated unsaturated natural oil.
The invention relates to an essential oil hair care composition containing conjugated unsaturated natural oil, which comprises natural oil accounting for 0.325-45.5% of the weight of the composition and volatile carrier oil accounting for the rest.
The natural oil consists of vegetable oil and aromatic plant essential oil, wherein the vegetable oil is oil containing unsaturated fatty acid such as monounsaturated and polyunsaturated fatty acid and a mixture thereof, the monounsaturated fatty acid is oleic acid C18:1, and the polyunsaturated fatty acid is linoleic acid C18:2, linolenic acid C18:3 and conjugated unsaturated fatty acid. The natural grease consists of the following components:
(a) Vegetable oil with oleic acid C18:1 content of more than 60%, wherein the vegetable oil accounts for 0.1-10% of the weight of the hair care composition;
(b) Vegetable oil with oleic acid C18:1 and linoleic acid C18:2 content more than 60%, wherein the weight ratio of oleic acid C18:1 to linoleic acid C18:2 is 1:1.5 to 1.5:1; the vegetable oil accounts for 0.1-25% of the hair care composition according to the invention;
(c) Vegetable oil with linoleic acid C18:2) content more than 60%, wherein the vegetable oil accounts for 0.1-5% of the hair care composition according to the invention;
(d) Vegetable oil with the linolenic acid C18:3 content of more than 30 percent, wherein the vegetable oil accounts for 0.01-2 percent of the weight of the hair care composition;
(e) Vegetable oils having a conjugated unsaturated fatty acid content of greater than 50% and comprising from 0.005% to 2% of the hair care composition of the present invention;
(f) Contains aromatic plant essential oil accounting for 0.01-1.5% of the weight of the hair care composition.
The invention relates to an essential oil hair care composition containing conjugated unsaturated natural oil, wherein vegetable oil with oleic acid C18:1 content of more than 60% is selected from the following components: at least one of macadamia nut oil, briqi nut oil, sweet almond oil, olive nut oil and avocado oil.
The invention relates to an essential oil hair care composition containing conjugated unsaturated natural grease, which comprises vegetable oil with oleic acid C18:1 and linoleic acid C18:2 content more than 60%, wherein the weight ratio of oleic acid C18:1 to linoleic acid C18:2 is 1:1.5-1.5:1 is selected from the following components: at least one of Allycerin, rice bran oil, sesame oil, wheat germ oil, and Brazil nut oil.
The invention relates to an essential oil hair care composition containing conjugated unsaturated natural oil, which comprises vegetable oil with the content of linoleic acid C18:2 being more than 60 percent, wherein the vegetable oil is selected from the following components: at least one of safflower seed oil, sunflower seed oil, poppy seed oil, grape seed oil and passion fruit oil.
The invention relates to an essential oil hair care composition containing conjugated unsaturated natural oil, which is characterized in that vegetable oil with the linolenic acid C18:3 content of more than 30 percent is selected from the following components: at least one of oleum Lini, oleum Sichuan lovage and oleum Rosae Rugosae.
The invention relates to an essential oil hair care composition containing conjugated unsaturated natural oil, wherein vegetable oil with the conjugated unsaturated fatty acid content of more than 50% is selected from the following components: at least one of tung oil, balsam pear seed oil and pomegranate seed oil.
The invention relates to an essential oil hair care composition containing conjugated unsaturated natural oil, wherein the volatile carrier oil is selected from the following components: cyclic polydimethyl siloxane, acyclic silicone oil or isoparaffin.
The invention relates to an essential oil hair care composition containing conjugated unsaturated natural oil, wherein the volatile carrier oil is acyclic silicone oil, the acyclic silicone oil is low-molecular-weight volatile linear silicone oil, and the linear silicone oil accounts for 54.5-99.675% of the weight of the composition.
The invention relates to an essential oil hair care composition containing conjugated unsaturated natural grease, which contains aromatic plant essential oil accounting for 0.01-1.5% of the weight of the composition.
The aromatic plant essential oil is at least one selected from rose essential oil, geranium essential oil, lavender essential oil and ylang essential oil.
The invention has the following advantages:
the hair care composition of the invention is a hair care composition containing conjugated unsaturated natural oil and having synergistic effect, and has the advantages that: film forming property, hair absorbability, moisture degree, repairing effect and glossiness are all good.
Detailed Description
The selection and action of the components of the present invention will be described in detail.
The invention relates to an essential oil hair care composition containing conjugated unsaturated natural oil, which comprises the following table (see table 2) that oil containing saturated and unsaturated fatty acids is selected from commercial vegetable oil:
TABLE 2
The numbers shown in the tables of the vegetable oils in Table 2 represent the mass percentages of the saturated and unsaturated fatty acids contained in the vegetable oils.
The vegetable oils described in Table 2, wherein the values for saturated and unsaturated fatty acids are the minimum values among the commercial vegetable oil and fat specifications.
The invention relates to an essential oil hair care composition containing conjugated unsaturated natural oil, which contains natural oil accounting for 8.11-19% of the weight of the composition.
In the vegetable oil of the essential oil hair care composition containing conjugated unsaturated natural oil, the vegetable oil with the oleic acid C18:1 content of more than 60 percent is selected from at least one of macadamia nut oil, bu Liu Guo oil, sweet almond oil, olive fruit oil and avocado oil, the Bu Liu Guo oil or the Australian nut oil is preferable, and the Bu Liu Guo oil or the Australian nut oil accounts for 0.1-10 percent of the weight of the hair care composition; further preferably 2.5-5%.
In the vegetable oil, the vegetable oil with the oleic acid C18:1 and linoleic acid C18:2 content of more than 60 percent is selected from at least one of argan oil, rice bran oil, sesame oil, wheat germ oil and Brazil nut oil, preferably the argan oil or Brazil nut oil, and the argan oil or Brazil nut oil accounts for 0.1-25 percent of the weight of the hair care composition; further preferably 5-10%.
The invention relates to an essential oil hair care composition containing conjugated unsaturated natural oil, which is characterized in that the vegetable oil with linoleic acid C18:2 content more than 60% is at least one selected from safflower seed oil, sunflower seed oil, poppy seed oil, grape seed oil and passion fruit oil, the passion fruit oil is preferably selected, and the passion fruit oil accounts for 0.1-5% of the hair care composition by weight, and is further preferably 0.5-1%.
In the vegetable oil of the essential oil hair care composition containing conjugated unsaturated natural oil, the vegetable oil with the linolenic acid C18:3 content being more than 30 percent is selected from at least one of linseed oil, crataegus pinnatifida oil and rose hip oil, the rose hip oil is preferred, and the rose hip oil accounts for 0.01-2 percent by weight of the hair care composition, and is further optimized to 0.05-1 percent by weight.
In the vegetable oil, the oil with the content of the conjugated unsaturated fatty acid of more than 50 percent is selected from at least one of tung oil, balsam pear seed oil and pomegranate seed oil, and the preferred balsam pear seed oil or the pomegranate seed oil is selected, and the content of the balsam pear seed oil or the pomegranate seed oil accounts for 0.005-2 percent of the hair care composition; further preferably 0.01-1%.
The invention relates to an essential oil hair care composition containing conjugated unsaturated natural oil, which contains volatile carrier oil, wherein the volatile carrier oil is selected from at least one of cyclic polydimethylsiloxane, acyclic silicone oil and isoparaffin; the volatile carrier oils of the present invention are preferably acyclic silicone oils. The acyclic silicone oil is low molecular weight, volatile linear silicone oil is a composition of trisiloxane and polydimethylsiloxane, and the volatile carrier oil accounts for 54.5-99.675% of the weight of the hair care composition.
The invention relates to an essential oil hair care composition containing conjugated unsaturated natural oil, which contains aromatic plant essential oil accounting for 0.01-1.5% of the weight of the hair care composition, and is further optimized to be 0.05-1%. The aromatic plant essential oil is at least one selected from flos Rosae Rugosae essential oil, flos Pelargonii Hortori essential oil, lavender essential oil, and ylang essential oil.
Preparation method
Adding BuLi nut oil, australian nut oil, argin oil, brazil nut oil, passion fruit oil, fructus Rosae Davuricae oil, balsam pear seed oil or punica granatum seed oil (if contained), adding into acyclic silicone oil, stirring, adding aromatic plant essential oil, sealing, stirring, discharging, and packaging.
Application method
2-5 drops of the essential oil hair care composition of the present invention are taken and uniformly gripped on the hair (in the direction from the root to the tail).
Examples
Examples (1) - (10)
Examples (1) - (5) Table 3
Examples (6) - (10) Table 4
Table 5, best examples of the invention
Component (A) Weight (%)
BuLi qi fruit oil -
Macadimia nut oil 5
Alin 10
Brazil nut oil -
Passion fruit oil 0.9
Rose fruit oil 0.8
Balsam pear seed oil -
Pomegranate seed oil 0.8
Aromatic plant essential oil * 1
Acyclic silicone oils ** 81.5
Inventive blank example-Table 6
* The aromatic plant essential oil is at least one selected from flos Rosae Rugosae essential oil, flos Pelargonii Hortori essential oil, lavender essential oil, and ylang essential oil.
* Is a low molecular weight, volatile linear silicone oil, is a trisiloxane and polydimethylsiloxane composition and the composition is a trisiloxane: polydimethyl siloxane in a weight ratio of 2:1 to 1: 2.
Verification of hair care effects
When the hair care composition is used for hair bundles, the hair care composition is uniformly coated and leaves a light and thin coating containing unsaturated grease, the unsaturated grease in the coating is polymerized under the action of oxygen in the air, and various conditioning effects such as increased moisture degree of hair, maintenance of hair split, increased glossiness of hair, increased volume feel of hair and the like are brought to the hair.
The smoothness test of 6 samples in inventive example (4), inventive example (6), inventive example (8), inventive example (9), inventive example (10) and inventive blank example:
the smoothness of the hair tresses after using the essential oil hair care compositions of each ratio in the dry state was measured and a comparison between groups was made.
The testing method comprises the following steps: the blank hair tresses (before using the samples) were first tested using an Instron, then the hair tresses (after using the samples) after applying the samples were tested using an Instron, each with 0.05 gram of example (4), example (6), example (8), example (9), example (10) and blank control examples on both sides of the hair tresses, the hair tresses using the examples were placed in a 55 ℃ dry box for 30min, then placed in a constant temperature and humidity box with uv light source irradiation, and after 3h the smooth hair tresses (dry hair) were tested using an Instron tester.
Test environment: 23+/-2 ℃, 60+/-10% RH and no wind.
Smooth effect test data-table 7
Smooth force: smooth force average of the smooth section (2-20 cm) during stretching.
Residual%: the lower the residual value, the better the smoothing effect is the ratio of the test data of Shu Shunhua force of the sample after use to the test data of Shu Shunhua force of the sample before use.
Residual% = { smooth force of hair bundle (before sample use)/(smooth force of hair bundle (after sample use) } ×100.
From the data in table 7, the decrease trend of the smooth force (9) > (10) > (8) > (6) > (4) >, the value of the residual% of the blank control example is the largest, and the value of the residual% of the example (9) is the smallest, which indicates that the essential oil hair care composition of the invention has good smooth effect. Hair gloss and moisturization tests for examples (4) (6) (8) (9) (10) and the blank examples.
The gloss of the hair tress after each example of essential oil was measured in the dry hair state and compared between groups. The testing method comprises the following steps: standard light source box, standard light source and standard illumination angle,
test environment: the irradiation angle testing step of the constant temperature and humidity box at 23+/-1 ℃ and 60+/-5% RH and the standard light source box D65 standard light source at 45 DEG:
the hair bundles are fixed on a standard light source box according to a specified method.
Blank groups were photographed under standard light box D65 light test using ILCE-5100.
The hair bundles are respectively coated with 0.3g of essential oil at two sides, and then are transferred to a 55 ℃ drying oven for 20min and taken out.
The hair tresses were fixed to a hair trestle test frame and photographed for 20min with ILCE-5100.
The hair tresses were placed in a constant temperature and humidity cabinet and photographed 3 hours later using ILCE-5100.
Finally, the highest luminance ratio is calculated.
Highest luminance ratio: the treatment groups were as per examples (4), (6), (8), (9), (10), and the ratio of the respective brightness maximum values of the comparative examples to the blank group (blank/no essential oil treatment). The results are shown in Table 8 for the gloss of examples (4), (6), (8), (9), (10) and comparative examples
TABLE 8
Gloss, average brightness ratio: the ratio of the highest gloss average of the treated group to the blank group is represented by +number, and the higher the number of +numbers, the better the gloss.
As can be seen from Table 8, the hair tresses treated in example (4), example (6), example (8), example (9) and example (10) each had a different degree of improvement in gloss as compared to the hair tresses of the comparative examples, and in particular examples (4), (6), (8), (9) and (10) still exhibited consistent gloss in terms of the gloss appearance of hair for 2-3 hours (T2-3 Hrs), while the gloss appearance decreased after 2-3 hours (T2-3 Hrs) of the comparative examples. The permanence of gloss also illustrates the film forming and moisturizing characteristics of examples (4), (6), (8), (9), (10) of the present invention.
Further, by sensory touch evaluation, the hair bundles treated in example (4), example (6), example (8), example (9) and example (10) had a moist feel regardless of whether they were touch-observed after 20 minutes or after 2 to 3 hours, whereas the blank examples did not feel moist after 20 minutes of use.

Claims (1)

1. An essential oil hair care composition containing conjugated unsaturated natural oil comprises the following components in percentage by weight: the weight percentage is as follows: 5% of macadamia nut oil, 10% of argan oil, 0.9% of passion fruit oil, 0.8% of rose fruit oil, 0.8% of pomegranate seed oil, 1% of lavender essential oil and 81.5% of low-molecular-weight volatile linear silicone oil;
the content of oleic acid C18:1 in the macadimia nut oil is more than 60%;
the content of oleic acid C18:1 and linoleic acid C18:2 in the argan oil is more than 60%; the weight ratio of oleic acid C18:1 to linoleic acid C18:2 in the argan oil is 1:1.5 to 1.5:1;
the content of linoleic acid C18:2 in the passion fruit oil is more than 60%;
the content of linolenic acid C18:3 in the rose hip oil is more than 30 percent;
the content of conjugated unsaturated fatty acid in the pomegranate seed oil is more than 50%.
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