WO2018018720A1

WO2018018720A1 - Hair oil composition for hair care containing rose hip oil and use thereof

Info

Publication number: WO2018018720A1
Application number: PCT/CN2016/098832
Authority: WO
Inventors: Mingjia LI; Chaochun Dong; Xiaoping Liu; Tan WANG; Zhaoxia Bao; Xiaopeng Hong; Wentao Li; Shuiping WU
Original assignee: Beiersdorf Daily Chemical (Wuhan) Co. Ltd.; Beiersdorf Ag
Priority date: 2016-07-28
Filing date: 2016-09-13
Publication date: 2018-02-01
Also published as: CN109689025A

Abstract

Disclosed is cosmetic preparation, in particular a hair oil composition containing rose hip oil and use thereof, the composition leads to an improvement in the physical-optical properties of the hair. The composition improves the shine, the combability, the gliding, and the softness of dry hair. Furthermore, after treatment with the composition, hair does not feel coated or heavy.

Description

[Title established by the ISA under Rule 37.2] HAIR OIL COMPOSITION FOR HAIR CARE CONTAINING ROSE HIP OIL AND USE THEREOF

Technical field

The invention relates to a cosmetic composition， in particular a hair care composition in form of a hair oil， comprising at least one silicone oil and rose hip oil. The cosmetic preparation leads to an improvement in the physical-optical properties， especially shine and softness of hair， without leaving the hair with an oily or coated appearance. The invention also relates to use of the cosmetic composition.

Background Art

The entire human body， with the exception of the lips， the palms of the hands and the soles of the feet， is covered with hair， albeit for a large part barely visible. Because of the many nerve endings at the hair root， hair reacts sensitively to external influences such as wind or touch and is therefore a part of the sense of touch that should not be underestimated. However， nowadays， the most important function of human head hair lies in helping to create the appearance of the person in a characteristic manner. Similarly to the skin， it fulfills a social function because it contributes considerably to interpersonal relations and to the self-esteem of an individual via its outward appearance.

Hair is consisting of hair shaft and hair root. Hair shaft protrudes freely from the skin， and is a keratinized (dead) section of the hair. Hair shaft represents the actual visible part of the hair， which is continually renewed. Hair root which sticks in the skin is the living part of the hair. Hair shaft consists of three layers： the central part， which is called hair marrow (medulla) ， is regressed in humans， often completely missing； then there is the marrow， also called cortex； and cuticle as the outermost layer， comprising up to ten horny layers.

Human hair in its freshly grown condition is virtually impossible to improve. The part of the hair in the vicinity of the scalp accordingly has a virtually closed horny layer. In particular， the horny layer， being the external sheath of the hair， and also the inner region below the cuticle are subjected to particular stress by environmental influences.

Sunlight， pollution， mechanical stress by intensive combing or brushing， hair treatments， such as hair colorations， bleaching and permanent waving， and also hair shaping using a hair dryer or other tools can cause damage to hair.

In general， one aim of hair care is to retain the natural state of freshly grown hair over a period as long as possible and， in the case of loss of the natural state， to restore it. Generally， natural healthy hair has a silky shine look， low porosity and a pleasant， smooth feel.

Rose hip oil， the INCI name being Rosa canina fruit oil， is extracted from the seeds of rose hips. The plant Rosa canina belongs to the family of Rosaceae. The rose hip oil is transparent and light yellow to orange. Rose hips and/or extracts thereof can be used for instance for the preparation of herbal teas， jams， jellies， syrups， beverages， wine and marmalade.

Rose hip oil is a natural oil obtained from rose hip seeds by pressing or extraction and subsequently refining. Rose hip oil is composed of a mixture of different triglycerides of fatty acids， the fatty acids being mostly unsaturated fatty acids， especially C18: 1 with 13 to 18％， C18: 2 with 35 to 50％and C18: 3 with 22 to 38％. Additionally， tocopherols in form of α-and β-tocopherol， are present in a considerable amount in rose hip oil.

The use of rose hip oil in cosmetic compositions is known. Different effects on skin are disclosed.

CN 103385809 A describes compositions for reducing spots， CN 104248597 A discloses compositions for whitening and removing spots， and CN 105147577 A offers a method to reduce melanin deposition. CN 105030574 A discloses a facial care composition and CN 104352372 A a multi-effect skin-protection plant extract， containing rose hip oil amongst others.

A traumatic injury ointment is disclosed in CN 105126037 A and CN 104997670 A describes a moisturizing cream for preventing striae gravidarum. An essential oil， containing rose hip oil， for light skin burns and scalds is disclosed in CN 105055582 A. A medicament for treating periodontitis is described in CN 105031269 A.

All the mentioned documents disclose mixtures of plant extracts or oils containing amongst others rose hip oil. None of the documents describes which of the claimed effects can be assigned to rose hip oil.

There are disclosures of compositions suitable for hair treatment containing rose hip oil. JP 2016056120 A describes a composition for straightening and coloring hair， the composition containing a liquid oil which can be rose hip oil. JP 2014240363 A discloses a hair dye composition which contains rose hip oil. The mentioned composition has a good dying property and an improved resistance to color fading due to shampooing.

WO 2010/004553 A1 discloses hair treatment compositions for removing lice. These compositions can contain oils and one of these oils can be rose hip oil.

A hairdressing composition in form of an aerosol type spray is described in JP 2013173686 A containing dimethiconol and rose hip oil.

None of the mentioned documents explicitly show any effect of rose hip oil concerning the improvement of dry hair.

Consumer like hair oil compositions because these compositions provide immediate care in case of hair damaged by hair coloring or bleaching or hair waving or in case the hair is otherwise affected. Hair oil is coating the hair， resulting in hair that feels like coated with a natural film.

Hair oil compositions are known in the state of the art. In general， th e main ingredients are organic substances in form of oils. Four main groups of oils can be mentioned：

● silicone oils

● natural oils， often vegetable oils，

● oils derived from mineral oil，

● synthetic oils， exemplified by dialkyl ether， ester oils and partial ester of glycerol.

Hair oil compositions do not contain water， and if so， only in very small amounts， usually not more than 5 ％wt.

The state of the art discloses numerous hair oil compositions， only a few will be mentioned below.

CN 102406558 and CN 102366355 disclose plant nutrient hair oils comprising liquid paraffin and vegetable oils as main components.

CN 102038773 describes a hair oil composition comprising vegetable oils for curing grey hair.

CN 101181219 discloses a hair oil composition comprising liquid paraffin and plant/animal oil for nourishing hair. After the application of said oil the hair is easy to comb and does not feel greasy.

The prior art hair care compositions， especially hair oil compositions also suffer from the following disadvantages： Hair oil compositions containing only synthetic and/or natural oils often leave the hair with an oily， unclean or coated feel. On the other hand， if the hair oil composition only contains synthetic oils， silicone oils or oils based on mineral oil， these oils tend to coat the surface of the hair leading on one hand to a protection of the hair and on the other hand the hair thus coated cannot be nourished by natural oils and natural extracts any longer.

The present invention is made to overcome the above mentioned disadvantages of the prior art hair oil compositions. Although cosmetic compositions in form of hair oils containing vegetable/animal oils are known， there is still a need to further improve these compositions by looking for natural oils contributing to a further improvement of hair. Aim of the present invention is to make available hair oil compositions containing a natural oil， such as rose hip oil， for treatment of hair without leaving an oily film on the hair， but at the same time providing good combability， softness and gliding in dry hair together with hair， that is shiny and not rough after application of compositions of the present invention without any heavy or coated feel.

Summary of the invention

Inventors of the present invention found out that a hair oil composition containing rose hip oil in a concentration of 0.001 to 10.0％by weight is able to improve the physical-optical properties of hair.

In a first aspect， the present invention provides a composition for hair care， especially a hair oil composition， comprising

- Rose hip oil in an amount of 0.001 to 10.0 ％by weight， relative to the total weight of the composition， and

- at least one silicone oil.

In a further aspect， the composition comprises preferably 0.005 to 7.5 ％by weight， more preferably 0.01 to 5.0％by weight， most preferably 0.1 to 1.0％by weight of rose hip oil.

Furthermore， the composition can optionally comprise at least one further component， selected from further natural oils， oils derived from mineral oil such as paraffin oil or isoparaffin oil， synthetic oils selected from ester oils， dialkyl ether or synthetic hydrocarbon oils， emollients， additional nutritional substances such as vitamins or extracts from plants， animals and bacteria， auxiliary components such as preservatives， antioxidants， fragrance or the like， and mixtures thereof. The further components are further described in the part of “Detailed Description of the Invention” .

In addition to the above components and the auxiliary components， the composition may comprise water. The amount of water must not exceed 5 wt. ％， such as less than 4 wt. ％， 3 wt. ％， 2 wt. ％， 1 wt. ％or even less， relative to the total weight of the composition. However， it is preferred that the compositions of the present invention do not contain any water at all.

One or more silicone oils can be used to bring the composition to 100 ％by weight.

In another aspect， the present invention refers to use of the composition of the present invention for caring and nourishing hair， especially for improving the combability， gliding， and softness and reducing the roughness of dry hair. Another aspect of the present invention is the use of the compositions of the present invention for providing shiny dry hair without an oily appearance. The term “dry hair” as used herein is intended to cover half dried hair， eighty percent dried hair and completely dried hair.

By using the composition of the present invention， the disadvantages of the prior art hair oil compositions are overcome. The hair oil composition of the present invention leads to improved combability， gliding， and softness of the dry hair. Furthermore， after treatment with compositions of the present invention， the hair is shiny without having an oily appearance.

Hair oil compositions can be applied to the hair before washing. The hair oil is spread in the hair and left for a few minutes， preferably at least 10 minutes， or even overnight. Then the hair oil is washed off.

Hair oil compositions also can be applied after washing and drying the hair with a towel. The hair oil is spread and massaged in the moist hair.

The hair oil composition can also be applied to dry hair， especially hair-ends， on a daily use basis or after a styling treatment.

Detailed description of the invention

The rose hip oil is obtained from the seeds of rose hips. For example， rose hip oil is commercially available from CRODA as Seatons Rose Hip Oil， especially as Seatons Rose Hip Oil Ref-LQ- (JL) .

The use of rose hip oil is essential for the present invention.

According to the invention， the at least one silicone oil is a silicone component.

In general， silicones are synthetic polymers containing silicium atoms connected via oxygen atoms. The functional unit consisting of silicium atom and oxygen atom is called siloxane. Silicones can be linear or crosslinked. Silicone molecules built up in a more simple way have methyl residues bound to the silicium atoms. However these methyl residues can be substituted by a manifold of other functional groups thereby modifying the characteristics and qualities of the silicone molecules.

Silicone oils of the present invention are hydrophobic liquids being clear， odorless， neutral and nontoxic. The molecular mass ranges from 120 to 150,000 and the viscosity from 1 to 1,000,000 mPa.s. The viscosity of silicone oils is dependent on temperature only to a lesser degree.

The at least one silicone oil according to the present invention is selected from the group of dimethicones， amodimethicones， cyclomethicones and dimethiconols.

Suitable silicone oils， sometimes also called silicone fluids， of the present invention are dimethicones. In dimethicones the siloxane units are arranged in a linear way， each silicium atom having two methyl residues and the silicium atoms at the ends having three methyl residues. Dimethicones are varying in length. The differing length accounts for differing viscosity values. Therefore dimethicones can be characterized by these values. Dimethicones can be purchased having varying values of viscosity. Commercial products have a viscosity values between 1 centistokes (cst) and 1,000,000 cst (1cst correlates to 1 mPa·s) . The lower viscosity products are miscible for example with mineral oil and isopropyl myristate and are useful for aerosol applications. The products having 100 -500 cst are the traditional silicones used as additives in skin care formulations and products characterized by higher viscosities are used in barrier products or in hair products. The viscosity values are referring to those values which are given by the suppliers of the respective silicone components to characterize these components.

According to the invention， the silicones are preferably dimethicones available as Baysilone M Dimethicone (5,000 -2,000,000 cst， ) or CB-50M (～500,000 cst at 25℃) ， both supplied by Momentive； further preferred are Dimethyl Silicone Fluids supplied by Dow Corning like PMX-200 Silicone Fluid (60,000 -500,000 cst) or CB 6634 Fluid (250,000 ～650,000 cst) .

Suitable silicone oils are also amodimethicones having a similar molecular structure as dimethicones， siloxane units arranged in a linear way. But a considerable part of the methyl residues is substituted by residues containing a nitrogen atom or an amine residue.

According to the invention， the amodimethicones are preferably amodimethicones available as 8500 Conditioning Agent， 2-8566 Amino Fluid or AP-8087 Fluid from DOW CORNING or SC-100 (SOFTCARE 100) from Shanghai Huanqiu Industrial Development Co.， Ltd.

Silicone oils having a cyclic or ring-like architecture are called cyclomethicones. They are often used as solvents for fragrance， essential oils or higher molecular weight silicones. Frequently used cyclomethicones are those having 3 (trisiloxane) ， 4 (cyclotetrasiloxane) ， 5 (cyclopentasiloxane) or 6 siloxane units (cyclohexasiloxane) . According to the present invention cyclopentasiloxane， cyclohexasiloxane and combinations thereof are preferred. When combinations of cyclopentasiloxane and cyclohexasiloxane are used， it is even more preferred when the weight ratio of cyclopentasiloxane to cyclohexasiloxane is from 1.5∶1 to 2.3∶1. For example， an advantageous combination of cyclopentasiloxane and cyclohexasiloxane is available as SF0015Z from KCC.

Dimethiconols are also preferred according to the present invention. Dimethiconols have a similar structure as dimethicones， but the terminal methyl residues are substituted by hydroxyl residues. Usually dimethiconols are of relatively high viscosity and are available being solubilized in suitable solvents， for example in dimethicones having a low viscosity or in cyclomethicones. According to the present invention it is preferred to use dimethiconols which are solubilized in cyclomethicones. It is even more preferred that the respective dimethiconol is solubilized in cyclopentasiloxane in an amount of about 15 ％by weight. For example，

PMX-1501 Fluid available from Dow Corning is an advantageous combination of dimethiconol and cyclopentasiloxane.

According to the present invention each of the above mentioned silicone oils can be used alone. However， it is preferred to use combinations of the above mentioned silicone oils， especially a combination of cyclomethicone (s) and dimethiconol (s) .

Preferably， the weight ratio of cyclomethicone (s) to dimethiconol (s) is from 100∶10 to 50∶10， more preferred from 95∶10 to 60∶10， or even more preferred from 90∶10 to 70∶10.

According to the present invention the at least one silicone oil is present in an amount of 10.0 to 99.9 ％by weight， for example， 20.0％， 30.0％， 40.0％， 50.0％， 60.0％， 70.0％， 80.0％， 90.0％or 95.0％by weight， more preferably 50.0 ％to 99.0 ％by weight， relative to the total weight of the composition.

According to the present invention at least one further oil selected from the group of further natural oils， paraffin oils， isoparaffin oils， synthetic hydrocarbon oils， ester oils and dialkyl ether can be present.

According to the present invention further natural oils can be present in the hair oil compositions. Suitable oils are VitisVinifera Seed Oil， Camellia Japonica Seed Oil， Persea Gratissima (Avocado) Oil， Nelumbium Speciosum Flower Oil， Helianthus Annus (Sunflower) Seed Oil， Dulcis (Sweet Almond) Oil and Ricinuscommunis (Castor) Seed Oil. These oils can be used alone or in combinations thereof.

These further natural oils are preferably used in an amount of 0.01 to 10.0 ％by weight， more preferably 0.05 ％to 7.5 ％by weight， even more preferred 0.1 to 5.0 ％by weight， relative to the total weight of the composition.

According to the present invention paraffin oils， isoparaffin oils and/or synthetic hydrocarbon oils can be used. Isododecane is an example for these oils.

According to the present invention ester oils and dialkyl ether can be used. Examples for ester oils are isopropyl myristate and isopropyl palmitate； an example for a dialkyl ether is di-n-octylether.

The total amount of paraffin and isoparaffin oils， synthetic hydrocarbon oils， ester oils and dialkyl ether which can be used alone or in combination thereof is preferably from 0.01 to 50.0 ％by weight， more preferably 0.05 ％to 2.0 ％by weight， relative to the total weight of the composition. These oils can be present alone or in combination thereof.

According to the present invention emollients can be present in the hair oil compositions. Emollients provide moisture and softness. In skin naturally occurring lipids and sterols are taking part in keeping the skin moisturized and soft. Emollient can also be used in compositions for hair care. For example， C_12-15Alkyl benzoateand PPG-30 isocetyl ether can be mentioned. A preferred emollient is C_12-15alkyl benzoate which can be purchased as Tegosoft TN Bfrom Evonik Industries.

The at least one emollient is used preferably in an amount of 0.01 to 10.0 ％by weight， more preferably 0.1％to 5.0 ％by weight， even more preferred 0.2 to 2.0 ％by weight， relative to the total weight of the composition.

According to the present invention additional components can be used in the hair oil compositions. For instance， these components can be selected from extracts from plants， animals and bacteria. For instance， extracts obtained from plants or parts of plants as ginseng， bamboo or litchi and many more are suitable. However， the solvent or solvents of the respective extracts have to be oil miscible. Also oil soluble vitamins， as for example vitamin A and/or E (tocopherol) can be used.

The hair oil compositions of the present invention can comprise preservatives， which are allowed and suitable for cosmetic preparations. However， hair oil compositions not containing any preservatives are preferred.

Preparation method

The composition of the present invention can be prepared by any technique known or effective to prepare a hair oil composition. The process to prepare the composition of the present invention comprises conventional formulating and mixing techniques.

Specifically， compositions of the present invention and a comparative composition are preferably produced according to the following procedure (Table 1 shows the detailed composition of the Examples， and Table 3 shows the corresponding trade names and INCI names of the compounds) ：

For manufacturing a batch of one of the compositions mentioned in the present invention all the components in form of the raw material are combined and stirred to transparency and homogeneity.

Test method

In order to show that the addition of rose hip oil into the inventive compositions has an effect and contributes to the solution of the above-mentioned problem， a halfhead test is conducted. The test is carried out according to the following procedure：

Compositions comprising rose hip oil at different concentrations ranging from 0.1 to 5.0 ％by weight (Examples 1-6) are prepared as samples of the present invention， and a blank composition is used as the comparative sample (Comparative Example) ， which does not comprise rose hip oil at all. Respective test samples are filled in syringes， not revealing any details of the composition therein. Depending on the length of the hair， the sample use amount may vary but will generally be around 0.5 g.

A trained hairdresser starts with an initial assessment of the subject’s hair to be treated by evaluating and recording the condition of the subject’s hair.

Wash the subject’s hair with a shampoo not containing rose hip oil.

Blew the hair to eighty percent dried， and then separate the hair of the subject from the middle of head.

A certain amount (about 0.5 g) of the hair oil sample is put into the hands and spread on the hands. The hair oil sample is then spread by the hands on the half side middle & lower part hair of the test person. The hair is immediately evaluated referring to “slipperiness” ， “light and not oily” ， ” anti-rough” and “Shine” .

Two hours later， the hair is again evaluated referring to “slipperiness” ， “light and not oily” ， ” anti-rough” and “shine” .

The evaluation is done based on a 10-point system， “1 point” corresponds to “bad” ， and “10 points” corresponds to “good” . In case of “slippery” a value of 10 corresponds to slippery and a value of 1 corresponds to non slippery. A value of 5 points is a medium value， corresponding to sufficient qualities. The values of 9 to 6 points give descending values， making it possible to differentiate stepwise between good and sufficient. Correspondingly， the values of 4 to 2 points give descending values， making it possible to differentiate stepwise between sufficient and bad.

The test and evaluation results are shown in Table 2， wherein the average score， based on 8 evaluation scores， is recorded for each sample.

Table 3： Trade name and INCI name of the compounds：

It can clearly be seen from Table 2 that the addition of rose hip oil to the hair oil composition has an effect. It is obvious that the effect is depending on the concentration of rose hip oil in the respective compositions. Rose hip oil in a concentration of 0.5 ％by weight in the respective composition leads to the best values concerning all qualities of hair evaluated.

In detail， the application of compositions according to example1， 2， and 3 containing 0.1 to 0.5 ％wt. rose hip oil results in better evaluations of hair conditions than the comparative example. This holds true for all features tested and for an immediate and longer lasting effect.

Concerning slipperiness evaluated immediately or two hours after application all inventive compositions lead to better results than the comparative composition， with exception of the immediate evaluation after application of a composition containing 5 ％wt. of rose hip oil. Relating to features like light and not oily， anti rough， and shine， it becomes evident that hair treated with compositions containing higher amounts of rose hip oil (1.5 to 5.0 ％wt. ) sometimes is evaluated worse than comparative example. Nevertheless these evaluations are not bad at all.

Summing up， rose hip does have an effect on hair which results in hair not being oily or rough， but being slippery (gliding) and having shine.

The above examples of the present invention are provided only for illustrative purposes， and are not intended to limit the invention in any aspect. One skilled in the art should know that， changes and modifications may be carried out to technical solutions of the present invention within the spirit and scope of the present invention.

Claims

A composition for hair care comprising

·Rose hip oil in an amount of 0.001 to 10.0 ％ by weight， relative to the total weight of the composition， and

·at least one silicone oil.
The composition according to claim 1， characterized in that the composition for hair care is a hair oil composition.
The composition according to claim 1 or 2， characterized in that the composition comprises 0.005 to 7.5 ％ by weight of rose hip oil.
The composition according to claim 3， characterized in that the composition comprises 0.01 to 5.0％ by weight of rose hip oil.
The composition according to claim 4， characterized in that the composition comprises 0.1 to 1.0％ by weight of rose hip oil.
The composition according to claim 1 or 2， characterized in that the composition comprises at least one further component， selected from further oils， emollients， additional nutritional substances， auxiliary components， water and mixtures thereof and the composition is balanced by at least one silicone oil so that all components amount to 100 ％ by weight.
The composition according to claim 1 or 2 or 6， characterized in that the composition comprises 0 to 5 ％ by weight water.
The composition according to claim 7， characterized in that the composition comprises 0 ％ by weight of water.
The composition according to claim 1 or 2， characterized in that the at least one silicone oil is present in an amount of 10 to 99.9 ％ by weight， relative to the total weight of the composition.
The composition according to claim 9， characterized in that the at least one silicone oil is present in an amount of 50 to 99.0 ％ by weight， relative to the total weight of the composition.
The composition according to any one of claims 1， 2， and 9， characterized in that the at least one silicone oil is selected from the group of dimethicones， amodimethicones， cyclomethicones， dimethiconols and combinations thereof.
The composition according to claim 11， characterized in that the at least one silicone oil is selected from the group of cyclomethicones， dimethiconols and combinations thereof.
The composition according to claim 12， characterized in that the silicone oil is a combination of cyclomethicone (s) and dimethiconol (s) .
The composition according to claim 13， characterized in that the ratio by weight of cyclomethicone (s) to dimethiconol (s) is from 100∶ 10 to 50∶ 10.
The composition according to claim 14， characterized in that the ratio by weight of cyclomethicone (s) to dimethiconol (s) is from 95∶ 10 to 60∶ 10.
The composition according to claim 15， characterized in that the ratio by weight of cyclomethicone (s) to dimethiconol (s) is from 90∶ 10 to 70∶ 10.
The composition according to any one of claims 11 to 16， characterized in that the cyclomethicone is selected from cyclopentasiloxane， cyclohexasiloxane and combinations thereof.
The composition according to claim 6， characterized in that the further oil is selected from the group of further natural oil， oil derived from mineral oil， synthetic hydrocarbon oil， ester oils， dialkyl ether and mixtures thereof.
The composition according to claim 18， characterized in that the oil derived from mineral oil is selected from paraffin oil， isoparaffin oil， and mixtures thereof.
The composition according to claim 6， characterized in that at least one emollient is present.
The composition according to claim 20， characterized in that the emollient is C_12-15Alkyl benzoate.
The composition according to claim 6， characterized in that at least one emollient is present in an amount of 0.01 to 10.0 ％ by weight， relative to the total weight of the composition.
The composition according to claim 22， characterized in that the at least one emollient is present in an amount of 0.1 to 5.0 ％ by weight， relative to the total weight of the composition.
The composition according to claim 1 or 2， characterized in that no preservative is present.
The composition according to claim 6， characterized in that the additional nutritional substance is selected from vitamins， extracts from plants， animals and bacteria， and mixtures thereof.
Use of the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 25 for caring and nourishing hair.
Use of the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 25 for improving the combability， gliding， and softness and reducing the roughness of dry hair.
Use of the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 25 for providing shiny dry hair without an oily appearance.