FR3008890B1 - OAK EXTRACT, COMPOSITION COMPRISING SAID EXTRACT AND USES IN PARTICULAR COSMETICS - Google Patents

Abstract

The invention provides a polyphenol rich extract of the fruit of oak, a composition comprising said extract in a physiologically acceptable matrix and its uses, especially topically, for a cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical treatment, especially for its anti-radical properties and astringent.

Description

DESCRIPTION

The present invention relates to an oak extract, a composition comprising said extract and the use of said extract or of the composition for a cosmetic and / or dermo-pharmaceutical treatment, in particular a topical treatment.

The present invention relates in particular to the cosmetics and dermo-pharmacy industries, which manufacture and / or use products intended for the treatment of the skin, including the scalp, mucous membranes and integuments (such as hair, eyelashes, eyebrows , nails, hair) of mammals, animals or humans, to improve their appearance and / or general condition.

These industries are in increasing demand for new products, in particular in demand for new active ingredients which come from plants because these make it possible to combine effectiveness, the limitation of the risks of irritation and allergy, the reduction of side effects, biodegradability, with the possibilities of labeling / certification and adequacy with a logic of sustainable development and / or fair trade.

The present invention aims to meet this demand.

Oak is used in traditional medicine, especially the smooth bark of young twigs, whose high tannin content has astringent, drying, anti-diarrheal, antiviral, anti-inflammatory properties, as well as a strengthening action on the intestine and constrictive on the ships. In external use, the preparations of oak bark (baths, gargles and compresses) act on the affections of the skin and the mucous membranes. Antiperspirants, they soothe forms of eczema, burns, and certain eye conditions. Acorns have been used for millennia for food, especially animals.

The present invention provides an oak extract rich in polyphenols capable of being obtained by an aqueous, alcoholic or hydro-alcoholic extraction of the fruit of the quercus petraea oak.

The oak used according to the invention is specifically the oak quercus petraea.

Sessile oak (quercus petraea), sometimes also called black oak or sessile oak (quercus sessiliflora), is a tree from the temperate regions of the northern hemisphere that belongs to the Fagaceae family. The oak fruit extract according to the invention mainly contains polyphenols, in particular derived from tannins, and nutritive molecules such as carbohydrates and proteins. After complete removal of the extraction solvent, the extract according to the invention advantageously contains a high proportion of polyphenols (at least 15% of polyphenols, the purity of which can vary from 20 to 80%). The Applicant has shown that such an extract, in particular thanks to the original polyphenol composition, has particularly interesting anti-radical and astringent effects. The present invention therefore relates to the uses of the extract according to the invention or of a composition comprising it in a physiologically acceptable matrix, in particular in cosmetics and dermo-pharmacy, for protecting the skin and the scalp by combating the effects harmful free radicals, responsible for cell damage and tissue aging. Thanks to its composition, the oak fruit extract is an antioxidant and astringent agent that will improve the radiance of the complexion, maintain the tone of tissues and micro-capillaries and hair health and slow down the formation of wrinkles and fine lines. The oak extract according to the invention can thus be used to protect the skin (including the scalp) and the hair against intrinsic factors (chronological and genetic) and extrinsic attacks generating free radicals, such as as radiation, especially UV and IR, tobacco, pollution, diets, stress etc.

In vivo and in vitro tests are detailed below, demonstrating the activity of the oak fruit extract according to the invention, in particular the demonstration of the antioxidant effect directly measured on the skin and of the protective effect. against free radicals measured on the dermal papilla cells of human hair follicles.

Scientists have shown that people who produce hydrogen peroxide (ROS) in their hair follicles may experience bleaching of their hair. This bleaching could be reversed thanks to the antioxidants, which would then produce a re-pigmentation of the hair. One of the main causes of hair bleaching is oxidative epidermal stress. The oak fruit extract reduces oxidative stress by decreasing the production of oxidative reagents in the cells of the hair follicle and can therefore advantageously act against depigmentation of the hair (canities).

By "extract" is meant according to the invention an extract which can be obtained by the usual solid / liquid extraction techniques. As examples, the usual extraction techniques that can be used include maceration, simple decoction, leaching, reflux extraction, extraction by supercritical fluid, extraction by means of ultrasound or micro -waves and counter-current extraction techniques. The proportion of plant material in relation to the solvent can vary between 1: 1 and 1:20 (w / w). Oak fruits can be used in fresh or dry form, crushed or whole.

According to other preferred characteristics of the invention, in order to extract the active fraction of polyphenols and this in good yield, the alcohol used for the extraction solvent is a C1, C2, C3 or C4 alcohol, or a polyol chosen from pentane-diol, sorbitol and hexanol, or a mixture of these.

Preferably the extraction is carried out with a C1 or C2 alcohol and more preferably a hydroalcoholic mixture of one of these alcohols or a mixture of these.

According to the invention, the extract can be used pure (free of its extraction solvent and optionally in particular in the form of a dry extract, for example lyophilized) or diluted in a physiologically acceptable excipient or matrix. Preferably, the extract is used diluted in a physiologically acceptable excipient or matrix, in particular an aqueous, hydro-glycolic or hydro-alcoholic matrix, or formed by a water-in-oil emulsion, an oil-in-water emulsion, or a microemulsion.

The present invention thus also covers a composition comprising an extract as defined above in a physiologically acceptable matrix.

According to the invention, the extract or the composition containing it can be used in particular: to reduce oxidative stress by reducing the production of free radicals, and / or to strengthen the natural defenses of the skin and scalp, and / or to slow down skin aging and protect the skin from external aggressions, and / or to illuminate the complexion and / or treat oily skin by protecting the tissues and tightening the pores and reducing inflammation, and / or for ensuring the maintenance of the tone of the tissues and micro-capillaries, and / or to protect the hair follicle and maintain hair growth and health, and / or to act against depigmentation of the hair or hairs (canities). The extract according to the invention can be considered for each of these effects separately or globally for example for anti-aging skin and / or hair.

The present invention relates more particularly to a hair application. The use can be cosmetic and / or dermo-pharmaceutical. It is preferably topical. According to other advantageous characteristics, the oak fruit extract according to the invention can be used in combination with one or more additional active ingredients, advantageously making it possible to offer a wider range of cosmetic properties, or a reinforcement of activity. The additional active ingredients can, for example, be chosen from lightening, anti-redness, anti-stain or soothing active ingredients for the treatment of sensitive, reactive skin, UV sun filters, moisturizing, moisturizing, exfoliating, smoothing, toning, anti-aging active ingredients, anti-wrinkles and fine lines, improving the mechanical and elastic properties, the radiance of the complexion, the detoxifying active agents, anti-regrowth hair, acting on the skin barrier, anti-acne, acting on the secretion of sebum, matifying, unifying, anti-inflammatory , anti-oxidants, anti-radicals, anti-glycants, eye contours (concealer and anti-puffiness), promoting blood circulation, peptides, vitamins etc. These active ingredients can be obtained from plant materials, such as plant extracts or products of plant culture or fermentation.

More specifically, the oak fruit extract according to the invention can be combined with at least one of the compounds chosen from vitamin compounds, group BC, E, F, D and A in particular, compounds such as niacinamide or tocopherol, retinoid compounds such as retinol, hexamidine, α-lipoic acid, resveratrol or DHEA or peptides, which are conventional active ingredients used in topical cosmetic or dermo-pharmaceutical compositions.

The present invention will be better understood in the light of the description which follows.

Preparation of the compositions

By "physiologically acceptable medium" is meant according to the present invention, without being limiting, an aqueous or hydroalcoholic solution, a water-in-oil emulsion, an oil-in-water emulsion, a microemulsion, an aqueous gel, an anhydrous gel , a serum, a dispersion of vesicles, a powder. "Physiologically acceptable" means that the compositions are suitable for topical or transdermal use, in contact with the mucous membranes, the integuments (nails, hair, hairs), the scalp and the skin of mammals and more particularly human, compositions which can be ingested or injected into the skin, without risk of toxicity, incompatibility, instability, allergic response, and others.

This "physiologically acceptable medium" forms what is conventionally called the excipient of the composition.

For the use according to the invention, the effective quantity of oak fruit extract, that is to say its dosage, depends on various factors, such as the age, the condition of the patient's skin, etc. An effective amount means a non-toxic amount sufficient to achieve the desired effect.

For the uses according to the invention and in order to be present in an effective amount, a person skilled in the art is capable of adjusting the amount of extract as a function of the desired effect, in particular as a function of the level of polyphenols in the extract of oak fruit.

All percentages and ratios used in the present invention are by weight of the total composition and all measurements are made at 25 ° C unless otherwise specified.

The choice of the excipient for the composition is made according to the constraints linked to the extract (stability, solubilization, etc.) and, where appropriate, the dosage form then considered for the composition. The extract can be incorporated into a composition by means of an aqueous solution, or be solubilized by means of usual physiologically acceptable solubilizers, such as for example and without limiting to this list: ethanol, propanol, Tisopropanol, propylene glycol , glycerin, butylene glycol, or polyethylene glycol or any combination. It may also be advantageous to dissolve the extract using emulsifiers. You can also use a powder support.

The compositions suitable for the present invention are generally prepared by usual methods well known to those skilled in the art of the manufacture of topical and oral compositions and compositions for injection. Such methods may involve a mixture of ingredients in one or more steps to achieve a uniform state, with or without heating, cooling, etc.

The various galenical forms which can contain the extract of oak fruit according to the invention are presented in any form, namely creams, lotions, milky ointments or creams, gels, emulsions, dispersions, solutions, suspensions, cleansers, foundations, anhydrous preparations (sticks in particular lip balm, oils for the body and the bath), gels for the shower and the bath, shampoos and lotions for hair care, milks or creams for skin or hair care, lotions or cleansing milks, lotions, sunscreen milks or creams, lotions, artificial tanning milks or creams, creams, mousses, gels or lotions for pre-shaving, shaving or after-shaving, make-up, lipsticks, mascaras or polish nails, skin “essences”, serums, adhesive or absorbent materials, transdermal patches or powders, lotions, milks or emollient creams, sprays, oils for the body and the bath, foundations for foundations, ointments, emulsifiers sions, colloids, compact or solid suspensions, pencils, sprayable, brushable formulations, blushes, rouge, eyeliners, lipliners, lip gloss, face or body powders, styling foams or gels, nail conditioners, lip balms , skin conditioners, moisturizers, hairsprays, soaps, exfoliators, astringents, depilatory products, permanent waving solutions, anti-dandruff formulations, antiperspirant or antiperspirant compositions, in particular sticks, roll-on deodorants, deodorants, nose sprays and so on. right now. These compositions can also be in the form of lip sticks intended either to color them or to avoid chapping, or of makeup products for the eyes or eyeshadows and foundations for the face. The compositions according to the invention include beauty products, personal care products and pharmaceutical preparations. One can also envisage a composition in the form of a foam or also in the form of an aerosol composition also comprising a propellant under pressure.

The compositions according to the invention can also be for oral use, for example a toothpaste. In this case, the compositions may contain adjuvants and additives customary for compositions for buccal use and in particular surfactants, thickening agents, humectants, polishing agents such as silica, various active ingredients such as fluorides, in particular especially sodium fluoride, and optionally sweetening agents sum sodium saccharinate. The oak fruit extract in the context of the present invention can be used in the form of a solution, dispersion, emulsion, paste or powder, individually or in pre-mixture or be conveyed individually or in pre- mixing by vectors such as macrocapsules, microcapsules or nanocapsules, macrospheres, microspheres, or nanospheres, liposomes, oleosomes or chylomicrons, macroparticles, microparticles or nanoparticles, macro-sponges, micro-sponges or nano-sponges, microemulsions or nanoemulsions, or adsorbed on powdery organic polymers, talcs, bentonites, spores or exines and other mineral or organic supports. The oak fruit extract in the context of the present invention can be used in any form, in a linked form, incorporated or adsorbed on macro-, micro-, and nanoparticles, or on macro-, micro - and nanocapsules, for the treatment of textiles, natural or synthetic fibers, wools, and all materials intended to come into contact with the skin and which can be used in clothing, underwear for day or night, tissues, or tissues, in order to exert its cosmetic effect via this skin / textile contact and allow continuous topical delivery. Cosmetic treatment method

The present invention also provides a method of topical treatment against skin and hair damage induced by external aggressions such as UV, pollution and oxidative stress and chronological aging, comprising the topical application of an effective amount of a composition according to the invention comprising an extract of oak oak fruit as defined above.

"Topical treatment" means an application which is intended to act in the place where it is applied: skin, including the scalp, mucous membrane, dander. Topical use according to the invention can particularly target young or mature, tolerant or sensitive skin, combination, dry or oily skin, ethnic skin.

Improvements in the appearance and general condition of the skin of the mucous membranes and appendages can be obtained by topical application on a regular basis such as for example daily.

The practitioner will appreciate the topical cosmetic treatment which will comprise a composition containing the extract of oak fruits, this treatment can be carried out for example by topically applying the composition described in the present invention, according to a technique usually used to apply such a composition. The topical composition is preferably applied once each day for a period of at least one week, but it can be applied for periods lasting 2, 4, 8 or 12 weeks. The topical composition is preferably applied to the face and the neck, but can be applied to any part of the skin requiring cosmetic improvement, where the composition remains on the area of skin to be treated, and preferably is not removed or rinsed from the skin. For example, for a cosmetic facial treatment, the European Cosmetics Directive has set a standard amount of application of a cream of 2.72 mg / cm2 / day / person and for a body lotion of 0.5 mg / cm2 / day / person.

It should also be understood that, as used herein, the terms treat and treatment include and include the reduction, improvement, progression, alleviation, and / or elimination of dermatological effects, particularly of aging. The compositions of the present invention as well as the methods are suitable for use in treating dermatological conditions of the skin in many areas of the skin, including but not limited to the face, forehead, lips, neck, cleavage, arms, hands, body, legs, knees, feet, chest, back, buttocks, and others.

The present invention is also suitable for capillary use for treating the scalp and hair. One of the great advantages of the present invention resides in the possibility of being able to carry out, whenever necessary or desirable, localized and selective "mild" treatments thanks to the non-invasive topical application method. An application can be carried out in a very localized manner using a syringe or a micro-cannula.

It is also however possible to envisage a composition according to the invention intended to be injected subcutaneously.

According to other particularities, the cosmetic treatment method according to the invention can be combined with one or more other treatment methods targeting the skin, such as, for example, light therapy, heat or aromatherapy treatments.

According to the invention, it is possible to propose devices with several compartments or kits intended for the implementation of the method described above, and which could include, by way of example, and without this being limiting, in a first compartment, a composition containing the extract of oak fruit and in a second compartment a composition containing another active ingredient and / or excipient, the compositions contained in said first and second compartments being here considered as a combination composition for simultaneous use, separated or spread over time, in particular in one of the treatments defined above.

Additional ingredients

The CTFA (“International cosmetic ingredient dictionary & handbook (13th Ed. 2010) published by“ the Cosmetic, Toiletry, and Fragrance Association, Inc. ”, Washington, DC) describes a wide variety, without limitation, of cosmetic ingredients and pharmaceuticals usually used in the skin care industry, which are suitable for use as additional ingredients in the compositions according to the present invention. Other skin care and hair care active ingredients which are particularly useful in combination with the composition can be found in the commercial documentation of CRODAROM and on the website www.crodarom.fr A) Example of obtaining a fruit extract oak according to the invention

Plant material: dried and crushed fruit

Extraction solvent: 70% ethanol solution (w / w)

Procedure: extraction is carried out with refluxing. The extraction time is approximately 6 hours. After extraction, the mixture is cooled and the liquid extract is separated from the solid part (plant). The solid phase is washed with 1 to 3 times its initial mass with the extraction solvent. All the liquid phases thus obtained are mixed and then filtered. At this stage, the total extract is treated by evaporation of the extraction solvent until its total elimination. The concentration is carried out under vacuum or at atmospheric pressure. The yield of the extraction process, concentrated obtained compared to the plant, varies from 5 to 50%.

This procedure advantageously makes it possible to obtain an extract of oak fruits rich in polyphenols.

At the end of the process, we can consider removing proteins by sticking using specific absorbents to guarantee better homogeneity of the extract. The oak fruit extract thus obtained is titrated to 15% by weight of total polyphenols relative to the weight of the soft extract, identified by spectrocolorimetry. The “concentrated” extract (or “soft” extract) can be used in a composition according to the invention as it is or in the form of a powder after atomization, lyophilization, or other drying. Such a composition can be more or less concentrated in extract and therefore in polyphenols depending on its function. According to an advantageous embodiment, a composition according to the invention forming an ingredient for the cosmetics and dermopharmacy industry, will comprise the extract according to the invention diluted in a matrix so as to contain a minimum level of 0.5 % of total polyphenols, preferably 0.7%. B) In Vitro Evaluations The antioxidant activity according to the invention of the oak fruit extract has been shown in the in vitro tests given below. 1. Reduction of the oxidation level of dermal papilla cells from human hair follicles (HFDPC).

The antioxidant capacity of the oak fruit extract is determined by measuring the degree of intracellular oxidation of cells subjected to oxidative stress by lipid hydro-peroxides (LOOH, trilinoline hydro-peroxides).

Principle and Protocol

The HFDPC cells are cultured in culture wells to be incubated for 24 hours with the extract of oak fruit. 24 hours later, LOOH oxidative stress (20pg / ml) is induced on the cells for 3 hours in the presence of the oak fruit extract. The quantification of the degree of intracellular oxidation by measuring the production of ROS ("reactive oxygen species") is determined by the fluorescence of a fluorescent probe of the dichlorofluorescein diacetate (DCFH) type and determination of proteins. cell.

Trials: 3 batches [Treated (+)]: cells incubated in the presence of the extract of oak fruits and stimulated by LOOH. Study done on 3 non-cytotoxic concentrations of oak extract (Cl = 0.0075%, C2 = 0.0375% and C3 = 0.0750%).

The degree of intracellular oxidation (U.R.F / well) recorded in the control and treated cultures was corrected according to the average rate of cellular proteins (pg / well). The values [ROS] are expressed in arbitrary units: [ROS] = (U.R.F / pg protein) with U.R.F = Relative Fluorescence Unit. Results

The results (mean +/- standard deviation, n = 3) are collected in table 1 below.

The exposure of HLDPC cells to LOOH results in a marked increase in the degree of intracellular oxidation. The basal level of ROS (cultures not stimulated by LOOH) is multiplied by 2.4 after exposure of HLDPC cells to LOOH. The oak fruit extract according to the invention, in the range of concentrations tested, induces a very clear dose-dependent reduction in the level of ROS. The maximum effect is recorded at the C3 concentration, with 78% reduction in ROS induced by LOOH.

Our skin (and scalp) is exposed to multiple intrinsic (chronological and genetic) or extrinsic (UV, IR, tobacco, diet, chronic diseases ...) factors responsible for the acceleration of physiological aging. When the body's natural defenses are no longer sufficient to repair damage and trap free radicals (ROS), an imbalance appears between the production and degradation of oxidative reagents for metabolism, we speak of oxidative stress. These uncontrolled oxidations will cause tissue damage and metabolic disturbances. Oak fruit extract with antioxidant properties is an important defense to the skin to reduce oxidative stress.

Under the experimental conditions mentioned above, the extract of oak fruit demonstrates a dose-dependent anti-radical effect. These properties make it an ideal active ingredient to combat oxidative stress induced mainly by peroxides. C) Examples of galenical formulations

Active ingredient according to the invention: concentrated composition comprising the extract prepared above under point A) (extract diluted in a water / glycerin matrix and containing at least 0.7% of polyphenols); composition used at 3.00% then corresponding to a polyphenol content of at least 0.021%. It goes without saying that these% could vary without departing from the scope of the present invention, depending on the more or less pronounced effects sought.

Different formulations are described below with or without additional cosmetic active ingredients, the latter coming if necessary in support and / or in addition to the activity of the active ingredient according to the invention. These ingredients can be of any category according to their function (s), the place of application (body, face, neck, bust, hands, etc.), the final effect sought and the targeted consumer.

EXAMPLE 1 Hair Lotion

Procedure: Weigh phase A. Weigh phase B and mix. Add phase B to phase A with stirring for 30 minutes. Weigh phase C, homogenize until a homogeneous mixture is obtained. Add phase C to phase A + B with stirring. Add phase D in the previous phase. Homogenize well.

Examples of other ingredients that can be added to this formulation:

Chufa milk EC: ingredient marketed by Crodarom, consisting of a vegetable milk providing the nutrients necessary to protect the scalp and hair.

Example 2: Cream form

Procedure: Weigh phase A and let swell without stirring for 30 min. Put phase A to heat to 75 ° C in a water bath. Weigh and mix phase B. Weigh phase C and heat to 75 ° C in a water bath, mix well. Add phase B to phase A. Mix well. With stirring pour phase C into phase A + B. Homogenize well. Add phase D, extemporaneously. Add phase E, mix well. Add phase F, homogenize well. Examples of other ingredients that can be added to this formulation:

Phytessence ™ Cimicifuga: is an active ingredient marketed by CRODAROM offering a treatment for oily and acne prone skin. 3% of this ingredient can for example be added to phase E of the formulation.

Example 3: Night Balm Form

Procedure: Weigh phase A and heat in a water bath at 85 ° C. Weigh phase B and heat in a water bath at 85 ° C. Weigh phase C. Before forming the emulsion, add phase C to phase A, mix well. Slowly pour phase A + C into phase B with vigorous stirring. Homogenize well with stirring to cool. Add phase D to the emulsion at around 35 ° C, mix well.

Examples of other ingredients that can be added to this formulation:

Avocadin® HU25: multifunction plant-based complex, marketed by Crodarom, which reduces feelings of discomfort, redness, dehydration and preserves the youthfulness of the skin by strengthening the barrier function of the epidermis. 2% w / w can be added in phase B.

Phytessence ™ Kudzu: is an active ingredient marketed by Crodarom to combat chronological aging by inhibiting the activity of MMPs responsible for the degradation of the extracellular matrix. 2% of this ingredient can for example be added to phase E of the formulation.

EXAMPLE 4 Gel Form Around the Eyes

Procedure: Weigh and homogenize phase A. Weigh phase B and mix homogeneously. Add phase B to phase A with propeller stirring. Let swell. Weigh phase C, homogenize. Add phase C to phase A + B with strong propeller stirring. Leave to homogenize for 1 hour with normal propeller stirring. Adjust to pH 5.50 with phase D. Homogenize with propeller stirring. Add phase E to the previous phase, mix well. Add phase F, homogenize well.

Examples of other ingredients that can be added to this formulation:

Crodarom® White Tea EC: Ingredient marketed by Crodarom, detoxifying and decongestant, ideal for the contours of the eyes (acts in particular on dark circles and puffiness). 2.00% can be added to phase E.

Phytessence ™ Blue Daisy: Ingredient marketed by Crodarom, soothes sensitive skin and reduces feelings of discomfort by acting on the synthesis of mediators of inflammation.

Example 5: Mask Shape

Procedure: Weigh phase A and put under propeller stirring. Weigh and mix phase B. Slowly add phase B to phase A with propeller stirring, mix well. Heat phase A + B in a water bath at 80 ° C without stirring for 2 hours. Shake quickly, then allow to cool with stirring. Add phase C to the previous phase, around 40 ° C. Adjust the pH to 5.50 with phase D, below 35 ° C, mix well. Add phase E, with slow stirring. Add phase F, mix well. Add phase G, mix well. Check that the pH is 5.0-5.5.

Examples of other ingredients that can be added to this formulation:

Phytessence ™ Purple Ginseng: ingredient marketed by Crodarom, acting on the radiance of the complexion. 2.00% can be added at the end of formulation before phase F.

Crodarom® Porcelain Flower: ingredient marketed by Crodarom, to restore the radiance of the complexion. 1% can be added in phase F.

Phytessence ™ Holy Herb: ingredient marketed by CRODAROM which protects and strengthens the natural defense mechanism of the skin. 2% by mass of this ingredient can for example be added to the phase (A + B + C).

EXAMPLE 6 Cream Form for the Body

Procedure: Weigh Phase A and let swell for 30 minutes. Put Phase A to heat in a water bath at 75C °. Heat Phase B until dissolved. Add Phase B to Phase A. Heat Phase C in a water bath at 75 ° C. With stirring, pour Phase C into Phase (A + B). Add Phase D, mix well. Neutralize with Phase E at around 55C °, mix well. Add Phase F, then Phase G, mix well.

Examples of other ingredients that can be added to this formulation.

Crodarom® French Saffron or Crodarom ® Green Coffee: extracts marketed by Crodarom, which improve the firmness of the skin by protecting the skin from external aggressions. 2% by mass of this ingredient can for example be added to the formulation in phase G.

Example 7: Serum Form

Procedure: Phase A: Sprinkle the carbomer in water, allow to swell for 15 minutes. Mix Phase B. Pour Phase B into Phase A, homogenize. Then weigh Phase C, mix and add to Phase A + B, with stirring. Leave to swell for 1 hour. Extemporaneously add Phase D in the previous phase with stirring. Neutralize with Phase E. Stir. Then add Phase F. Leave to mix for at least 1 hour with stirring then add Phase G. Mix well.

Examples of other ingredients that can be added to this formulation.

Phytessence ™ Plantago: active ingredient marketed by Crodarom which reduces inflammation and redness induced after exposure to UV. 4% of this ingredient can for example be added to phase F of the formulation.

EXAMPLE 8 Lip Balm

Procedure: Heat Phase A to 85 ° C. Mix Phase B and heat to 85 ° C. Mix. Slowly pour Phase A into Phase B with stirring (Staro s = 3000, then s = 1200). Add Phase C previously heated to 80 ° C, homogenize. Add Phase D at around 35 ° C. Flow.

Examples of other ingredients that can be added to this formulation.

Phytessence ™ Stevia GL: active ingredient marketed by Crodarom from the Stevia herb with moisturizing and softening properties. 2% of this ingredient can for example be added to phase C of the formulation. D) In Vivo Evaluations The effectiveness of the oak fruit extract according to the invention with respect to photo-oxidative stress induced by UVAs on the skin has been shown in the in vivo test given below. -after (β-carotene test). Principle:

Β-carotene is a natural orange-yellow substance. Under the effect of UVA radiation, β-carotene discolours, as the result of a chemical process involving reactive oxygen derivatives, such as singlet oxygen, superion oxide, hydrogen peroxide and the radical hydroxyl. The color change of β-carotene can be attenuated or inhibited by a product applied to the skin having antioxidant properties.

Inclusion criteria: volunteers aged 31-63 (female (age> 18) with healthy skin were included in the study. Average age: 44.8 years.

Exclusion criteria: Skin diseases and pregnancy Formulation used:

Placebo:

Cream with oak fruit extract:

Protocol: Symmetrically opposite zones have been defined on the inside of the forearm of each subject. The formulations were applied at a dose of approximately 2 mg / cm2. 30 minutes after application, the solution of β-carotene (5mg / 100ml) in n-hexane (80μ1) was applied to each test area. Five minutes later, the coloration is measured using a chromameter (b * blue-yellow axis) then followed by site irradiation (UVA: 10 Joule / cm2). An area (control) remained untreated, but was colored and irradiated. Five minutes after irradiation, the coloration was again measured. The coloring is standardized by the blue-yellow axis b * of the chromameter. The measurements made by the chromameter will highlight the discoloration of β-carotene induced by exposure to UVA. A decrease in the measured b * value corresponds to a decrease in the yellow coloration of the skin.

The results were expressed as follows:

Inhibition rate compared to the untreated area (Color index) = 100 - [(colored sample - irradiated sample) / (colored control - irradiated control) x 100],

Colored = color read after coloring with irradiated β-carotene = color read after irradiation The color index (in%) corresponds to the antioxidant efficacy of the product tested. The decrease in the measured value corresponds to a decrease in the yellow coloring of the skin due to the oxidation of β-carotene.

Results: table 2

* p <0.01 versus before UVA, ** p <0.01 versus placebo and untreated skin, *** p> 0.05 versus untreated skin

Compared to untreated skin, the oak fruit extract according to the invention significantly protects the skin from oxidation while the placebo cream has no effect.

Compared to placebo cream, the extract of oak fruit immediately decreases the production of ROS by 34% (measurement made 5 minutes after irradiation) The application to the skin of a formula containing the extract of oak fruit helps protect the epidermis from damage caused by UVA rays responsible for premature aging of tissues (wrinkles, spots and other imperfections). The oak fruit extract is an ingredient to use in protective care to counter the harmful effects induced by free radicals and oxidative stress. It can be used both in sun and after-sun face and body care or in mask and protective serum for the skin. It is also recommended for anti-aging hair care to protect the hair follicle and participate in the maintenance of good health of the hair fiber and prevent and / or treat depigmentation of the hair.

Claims (12)

1. Non-therapeutic use of an oak extract rich in polyphenols obtained by an aqueous, alcoholic or hydro-alcoholic extraction of the oak oak quercus petraea for a topical cosmetic treatment. 2. Use according to claim 1, characterized in that the alcohol used for the extraction solvent is a C1, C2, C3 or C4 alcohol, or a polyol chosen from pentane-diol, sorbitol and hexanol , or a mixture of these. 3. Use according to claim 2, characterized in that the alcohol is ethanol or methanol. 4. Use according to one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that one uses a composition comprising said extract in a physiologically acceptable matrix. 5. Use according to one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that the treatment is anti-radical and / or astringent. 6. Use according to one of claims 1 to 5, for a treatment chosen from an anti-aging, anti-wrinkle or fine lines treatment, in particular by strengthening the natural defenses of the skin and scalp and protecting against with regard to external aggressions, a hair treatment making it possible to maintain the growth and health of the hair, in particular thanks to the protection of the hair follicle, a firming treatment, in particular thanks to the reinforcement and maintenance of the tone of the tissues and of the microcapillaries, and / or a treatment to illuminate the complexion and / or treat oily skin thanks in particular to the protection of the tissues and / or to the tightening of the pores. 7. Use according to one of claims 1 to 6, for a hair treatment. 8. Use according to one of claims 1 to 7, for a treatment against canities. 9. Use of an oak extract rich in polyphenols obtained by an aqueous, alcoholic or hydro-alcoholic extraction of the fruit of the oak quercus petraea for the manufacture of a composition for a cosmetic topical treatment. 10. Use according to claim 9, characterized in that the alcohol used for the extraction solvent is a C1, C2, C3 or C4 alcohol, or a polyol chosen from pentane-diol, sorbitol and hexanol , or a mixture of these. 11. Use according to claim 10, characterized in that the alcohol is ethanol or methanol. 12. Use according to one of claims 9 to 11, characterized in that the composition comprises said extract and a physiologically acceptable matrix.