FR3008890A1 - OAK EXTRACT, COMPOSITION COMPRISING SAID EXTRACT AND USES IN PARTICULAR COSMETICS - Google Patents

Abstract

The invention provides a polyphenol rich extract of the fruit of oak, a composition comprising said extract in a physiologically acceptable matrix and its uses, especially topically, for a cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical treatment, especially for its anti-radical properties and astringent.

Description

DESCRIPTION The present invention relates to an oak extract, a composition comprising said extract and the use of said extract or composition for a cosmetic and / or dermopharmaceutical treatment, in particular a topical treatment.

The present invention relates in particular to the cosmetics and dermo-pharmacy industries, which manufacture and / or use products intended for the treatment of the skin, including the scalp, mucous membranes and integuments (such as hairs, eyelashes, eyebrows). , nails, hair) of mammals, animals or humans, to improve the appearance and / or the general condition. These industries are in increasing demand for new products, particularly in demand for new active ingredients that are derived from plants because they allow to combine the effectiveness, the limitation of the risks of irritation and allergy, the reduction of side effects, biodegradability, with the possibilities of labeling / certifications and suitability with a logic of sustainable development and / or fair trade. The present invention aims to respond to this request.

The oak is used in traditional medicine, especially the smooth bark of the young twigs, whose high tannin content has an astringent, drying, anti-diarrhea, antiviral, anti-inflammatory, as well as a fortifying action on the intestine and constrictive on the ships. In external use, preparations of oak bark (baths, gargles and compresses) act on the affections of the skin and the mucous membranes. Antiperspirant, they soothe the forms of eczema, burns, as well as certain eye conditions. Acorns have been used for millennia for the feeding of animals. The present invention provides an oak extract rich in polyphenols that can be obtained by an aqueous extraction, alcoholic or hydro-alcoholic fruit oak quercus petraea. The oak used according to the invention is specifically the oak oak quercus petraea.

The oak (Quercus petraea), sometimes also called black oak or sessile oak (Quercus sessiliflora), is a forest tree of temperate regions of the northern hemisphere that belongs to the Fagaceae family. The oak fruit extract according to the invention contains mainly polyphenols, in particular derived from tannins, and nutritive molecules such as carbohydrates and proteins.

After complete removal of the extraction solvent, the extract according to the invention advantageously contains a high proportion of polyphenols (at least 15% polyphenols whose purity can vary from 20 to 80%). The Applicant has shown that such an extract, in particular thanks to the original composition of polyphenols, has particularly advantageous anti-radical and astringent effects. The present invention therefore aims at the uses of the extract according to the invention or a composition comprising it in a physiologically acceptable matrix, in particular in cosmetics and dermo-pharmacy, for protecting the skin and the scalp by combating the effects harmful free radicals, responsible for cell damage and tissue aging. Thanks to its composition, the oak fruit extract is an antioxidant and astringent agent that will improve the radiance of the complexion, maintain the tissue and micro-capillary tone and health of the hair and slow down. the formation of wrinkles and fine lines. The oak oak extract according to the invention can thus be used to protect the skin (including the scalp) and the hair against intrinsic factors (chronological and genetic) and extrinsic attacks generating free radicals, such as as radiation, especially UV and IR, tobacco, pollution, diets, stress etc. In vivo and in vitro tests are detailed below demonstrating the activity of the oak fruit extract according to the invention, in particular the demonstration of the antioxidant effect directly measured on the skin and the protective effect. against free radicals measured on dermal papilla cells of human hair follicles. Scientists have shown that people producing hydrogen peroxide (ROS) in their hair follicle would be the victims of bleaching their hair. This bleaching could be reversed thanks to anti-oxidants, which would then produce a re-pigmentation of the hair. Epidermal oxidative stress is one of the main causes of hair whitening.

The extract of oak fruit reduces the oxidative stress by decreasing the production of oxidizing reagents in the cells of the hair follicle and can therefore advantageously act against the depigmentation of the hair (canitie). By "extract" is meant according to the invention an extract that can be obtained by the usual techniques of solid / liquid extraction. As examples, the usual extraction techniques that can be used include maceration, simple decoction, leaching, extraction under reflux, extraction by supercritical fluid, extraction by means of ultrasound or micro and the techniques of countercurrent extraction. The proportion of plant material to solvent can range from 1: 1 to 1:20 (w / w). Oak fruits can be used in fresh or dry form, crushed or whole.

According to other preferred features of the invention, in order to extract the active fraction of polyphenols and this with a good yield, the alcohol used for the extraction solvent is a C1, C2, C3 or C4 alcohol, or a polyol selected from pentane diol, sorbitol and hexanol, or a mixture thereof. Preferably the extraction is carried out with a C1 or C2 alcohol and more preferably a hydro-alcoholic mixture of one of these alcohols or a mixture thereof. According to the invention the extract can be used pure (free of its extraction solvent and optionally in the form of a dry extract, for example freeze-dried) or diluted in a physiologically acceptable excipient or matrix. Preferably the extract is used diluted in a physiologically acceptable excipient or matrix, in particular an aqueous, hydro-glycolic or hydroalcoholic matrix, or formed by a water-in-oil emulsion, an oil-in-water emulsion, or a microemulsion.

The present invention thus also covers a composition comprising an extract as defined above in a physiologically acceptable matrix. According to the invention, the extract or the composition containing it may be used in particular: to reduce oxidative stress by reducing the production of free radicals, and / or to strengthen the natural defenses of the skin and scalp, and / or - to slow skin aging and protect the skin from external aggressions, and / or - to illuminate the complexion and / or treat oily skin by protecting the tissues and tightening the pores and reducing inflammation, and / or - to ensure the maintenance of tissue and micro-capillary tonicity, and / or - to protect the hair follicle and maintain the growth and health of the hair, and / or - to act against the depigmentation of hair or hair (canitie). The extract according to the invention can be envisaged for each of these effects separately or globally, for example in a targeted anti-aging skin and / or hair. The present invention relates more particularly to a capillary application.

The use may be cosmetic and / or dermopharmaceutical. It is preferentially topical. According to other advantageous features, the oak fruit extract according to the invention can be used in combination with one or more additional active ingredients, advantageously allowing to offer a wider range of cosmetic properties, or a reinforcement of activity. The additional active ingredients may for example be chosen from lightening, anti-redness, anti-stain and soothing active ingredients, for the treatment of sensitive, reactive skin, UV sunscreens, moisturizing, moisturizing, exfoliating, smoothing, toning and anti-aging agents. ages, anti-wrinkles and fine lines, improving the mechanical and elastic properties, the radiance of the complexion, the detoxifying active agents, antirepousse hair, acting on the skin barrier, anti-acne, acting on the secretion of sebum, mattifying, unifying, anti -Inflammatory, anti-oxidant, anti-free radicals, anti-glycemic, eye contours (anti-dark circles and anti-pockets), promoting blood circulation, peptides, vitamins etc. These active ingredients can be obtained from plant materials, such as plant extracts or vegetable or fermentation products. More specifically, the oak fruit extract according to the invention can be combined with at least one of the compounds selected from vitamin compounds, group BC, E, F, D and A in particular, compounds such as niacinamide or tocopherol, retinoid compounds such as retinol, hexamidine, α-lipoic acid, resveratrol or DHEA or peptides, which are conventional active ingredients used in topical cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical compositions. The present invention will be better understood in the light of the description which follows.

Preparation of the compositions By "physiologically acceptable medium" is meant according to the present invention, without being limiting, an aqueous or hydroalcoholic solution, a water-in-oil emulsion, an oil-in-water emulsion, a microemulsion, an aqueous gel, an anhydrous gel, a serum, a dispersion of vesicles, a powder. "Physiologically acceptable" means that the compositions are suitable for topical or transdermal use, in contact with the mucous membranes, superficial body growths (nails, hair, hair), scalp and mammalian skin and more particularly human, compositions that can be ingested or injected into the skin, without risk of toxicity, incompatibility, instability, allergic response, and others.

This "physiologically acceptable medium" forms what is conventionally called the excipient of the composition. For the use according to the invention, the effective amount of oak fruit extract, that is to say its dosage, depends on various factors, such as the age, the condition of the skin of the patient, etc. An effective amount means a non-toxic amount sufficient to achieve the desired effect.

For uses according to the invention and to be present in an effective amount, a person skilled in the art is able to adjust the amount of extract according to the desired effect, in particular as a function of the polyphenol content of the extract of oak fruit. All percentages and ratios used in the present invention are by weight of the total composition and all measurements are made at 25 ° C unless otherwise specified.

The choice of the excipient of the composition is carried out according to the constraints related to the extract (stability, solubilization, etc.) and, if appropriate, the pharmaceutical form envisaged subsequently for the composition. The extract may be incorporated into a composition by means of an aqueous solution, or may be solubilized by means of usual physiologically acceptable solubilizers, for example and without limiting to this list: ethanol, propanol, isopropanol propylene glycol, glycerin, butylene glycol, or polyethylene glycol or any combination thereof. It may also be advantageous to solubilize the extract using emulsifiers. It is also possible to use a powder support. Compositions suitable for the present invention are generally prepared by usual methods well known to those skilled in the art of making topical and oral compositions and compositions for injection. Such methods may involve mixing ingredients in one or more steps to achieve a uniform state, with or without heating, cooling, etc. The various galenic forms that may contain the oak fruit extract according to the invention are in any form namely creams, lotions, ointments milks or creams, gels, emulsions, dispersions, solutions, suspensions, cleaners, foundations, anhydrous preparations (sticks in particular lip balm, body and bath oils), shower and bath gels, shampoos and hair care lotions, milks or creams for the care of the skin or hair, lotions or make-up removing milks, sunscreen lotions, sunscreens or lotions, lotions, artificial tanning milks or creams, creams, mousses, gels or lotions of pre-shave, shaving, or aftershave, make-up, lipsticks, mascaras or nail polish nails, skin "essences", serums, adhesive or absorbent materials, transdermal patches, or powders, lotions, emollient milks or creams, sprays, body and bath oils, foundation bases, ointments, emulsions, olloids, compact or solid suspensions, pencils, sprayable formulations, brushable, blushes, reds, eyeliners, lipliners, lip gloss, face or body powders, mousse or styling gels, nail conditioners, lip balms, conditioners skin, moisturizers, lacquers, soaps, exfoliants, astringents, depilatory permanent waving solutions, anti-dandruff formulations, antiperspirant or antiperspirant compositions, including sticks, "roll-on" deodorants, deodorants, sprays for nose and so on. These compositions may also be in the form of sticks for the lips intended either to color or avoid chapped skin, or eye makeup products or makeup and makeup for the face. The compositions according to the invention include beauty products, personal care products and pharmaceutical preparations. It is also possible to envisage a composition in the form of a foam or in the form of an aerosol composition also comprising a propellant under pressure. The compositions according to the invention can also be for oral use, for example a toothpaste. In this case, the compositions may contain adjuvants and additives customary for oral compositions and in particular surfactants, thickeners, humectants, polishing agents such as silica, various active ingredients such as fluorides, particularly sodium fluoride, and optionally sweetening agents sum sodium saccharinate. The oak fruit extract in the context of the present invention may be used in the form of a solution, dispersion, emulsion, paste or powder, individually or premixed or conveyed individually or in advance. mixture by vectors such as macrocapsules, microcapsules or nanocapsules, macrospheres, microspheres, or nanospheres, liposomes, oleosomes or chylomicrons, macroparticles, microparticles or nanoparticles, macro-sponges, micro-sponges or nanoepongs, microemulsions or nanoemulsions, or adsorbed on powdery organic polymers, talcs, bentonites, spores or exines and other inorganic or organic carriers.

The fruit extract of oak in the context of the present invention can be used in any form, in a form bound, incorporated or adsorbed on macro-, micro-, and nanoparticles, or on macro-, micro - and nanocapsules, for the treatment of textiles, natural or synthetic fibers, wool, and any material intended to come into contact with the skin and which may be used in clothing, underwear, daytime or nightwear, tissues, or tissues, in order to exert its cosmetic effect through this contact skin / textile and allow continuous topical delivery.

Cosmetic Treatment Method The present invention also provides a method of topical treatment against cutaneous and capillary damage induced by external aggressions such as UV, pollution and oxidative stress and chronological aging, including the topical application of a quantity. effective of a composition according to the invention comprising an extract of oak fruit as defined above. By "topical treatment" is meant an application that is intended to act at the place where it is applied: skin, including the scalp, mucous membranes, dander. The topical use according to the invention can particularly target young or mature skin, tolerant or sensitive, mixed skin, dry or oily, ethnic skin. Improvements in the appearance and the general condition of the skin of the mucous membranes and integuments can be obtained by topical application on a regular basis, for example daily. The practitioner will appreciate the cosmetic topical treatment which will comprise a composition containing the oak fruit extract, this treatment can be carried out for example by applying topically the composition described in the present invention, according to a technique usually used to apply such a composition. The topical composition is preferably applied once daily for a period of at least one week, but may be applied for periods of 2, 4, 8 or 12 weeks. The topical composition is preferentially applied to the face and the neck, but may be applied to any part of skin requiring an aesthetic improvement, where the composition remains on the skin area to be treated, and preferably is not removed or rinsed from the skin. skin. For example, for a cosmetic facial treatment, the European Cosmetics Directive has set a standard application amount of a cream of 2.72 mg / cm2 / day / person and for a lotion for the body of 0.5 mg / cm2 / day / person.

It should also be understood that, as used herein, the terms treat and treat include and include the reduction, amelioration, progression, alleviation, and / or elimination of dermatological effects, including aging. The compositions of the present invention as well as the methods are suitable for use in treating dermatological conditions of the skin in many areas of the skin, including but not limited to, the face, forehead, lips, neck, neck cleavage, arms, hands, body, legs, knees, feet, chest, back, buttocks, and others. The present invention is also suitable for hair use for treating the scalp and hair. One of the great advantages of the present invention resides in the possibility of being able to proceed, whenever necessary or desirable, to localized and selective "soft" treatments thanks to the topical, non-invasive mode of application. An application can be made very localized using a syringe or a microcannula.

It is also possible to envisage a composition according to the invention intended to be injected subcutaneously. According to other particularities, the cosmetic treatment method according to the invention may be associated with one or more other treatment methods aimed at the skin, such as, for example, treatments by light therapy, by heat or by aromatherapy. According to the invention, it is possible to propose devices with several compartments or kits intended for the implementation of the method described above, and which could include, by way of example, and without being limiting, in a first compartment a composition containing the oak fruit extract and in a second compartment a composition containing another active ingredient and / or excipient, the compositions contained in said first and second compartments being considered here as combination composition for simultaneous use, separated or spread over time in particular in one of the treatments defined above. Additional Ingredients CTFA ("International cosmetic ingredient dictionary & handbook" (13th Ed. 2010) published by "The Cosmetic, Toiletry, and Fragrance Association, Inc.", Washington, DC) describes a wide variety, without limitation, of cosmetic ingredients and pharmaceuticals commonly used in the skin care industry, which are suitable for use as additional ingredients in the compositions of the present invention Other skin care and hair care active agents which are particularly useful in combination with the composition can be found in the commercial documentation of CRODAROM and on the site www.crodarom.fr A) Example of obtaining an extract of oak fruit according to the invention Plant material: dried and crushed fruits Extraction solvent: a 70% (w / w) ethanol solution Procedure: The extraction is carried out with stirring at reflux, the extraction time is approximately 6 hours. s extraction, the mixture is cooled and the liquid extract is separated from the solid portion (plant). The solid phase is washed with 1 to 3 times its initial mass with the extraction solvent. All the liquid phases thus obtained are mixed and then filtered. At this stage, the total extract is treated by evaporation of the extraction solvent until it is completely removed. The concentration is made under vacuum or at atmospheric pressure. The yield of the extraction process, concentrate obtained relative to the plant, varies from 5 to 50%. This procedure advantageously makes it possible to obtain a fruit extract of oak rich in polyphenols. At the end of the process, it is possible to envisage the elimination of the proteins by gluing using specific absorbents in order to guarantee a better homogeneity of the extract. The oak fruit extract thus obtained is titrated to 15% by weight of total polyphenols relative to the weight of the soft extract, identified by spectrocolorimetry.

The "concentrated" extract (or "soft" extract) may be used in a composition according to the invention as such or in the form of a powder after atomization, lyophilization, or other drying. Such a composition may be more or less concentrated in extract and therefore in polyphenols depending on its function. According to an advantageous embodiment, a composition according to the invention forming an ingredient for the cosmetics and dermopharmacy industry, will comprise the extract according to the invention diluted in a matrix so as to contain a minimum level of 0.5. % of total polyphenols, preferably 0.7%. B) In Vitro Evaluations The antioxidant activity according to the invention of the oak fruit extract has been shown in the in vitro tests given below. 1. Reduction of oxidation level of dermal papilla cells of human hair follicles (HFDPC). The antioxidant capacity of the oak fruit extract is determined by measuring the degree of intracellular oxidation of the cells subjected to oxidative stress by lipid hydro-peroxides (LOOH, trilinoline hydro-peroxides). Principle and Protocol The HFDPC cells are cultured in culture wells to be incubated for 24 hours with the oak fruit extract. 24 hours later, the cells were induced with oxidative LOOH stress (20 μg / ml) for 3 hours in the presence of the oak fruit extract. The quantification of the degree of intracellular oxidation by measuring the production of ROS ("reactive oxygen species", reactive oxygen species) is determined by the fluorescence of a fluorescent dichlorofluorescein diacetate (DCFH) probe and protein assay. cell. Trials: 3 lots [Treated (+)]: cells incubated in the presence of oak-fruit extract and stimulated by LOOH. Study on 3 non-cytotoxic concentrations of oak fruit extract (Cl = 0.0075%, C2 = 0.0375% and C3 = 0.0750%). The degree of intracellular oxidation (U.R.F. / well) recorded in the control and treated cultures was corrected according to the average rate of cellular proteins (μg / well). [ROSI values are expressed in arbitrary units: [ROSI = (U.R.F / μg protein) with U.R.F = Relative Unit of Fluorescence. Results The results (mean +/- standard deviation, n = 3) are collected in Table 1 below. Tested products Untreated cells Control Fruit extract of oak according to negative invention C1 = 0.0075 ° / 0 C2 = 0.0375 ° / 0 C3 = 0.075 ° / 0 Fluorescence (URF / pg protein) average 67.57 162.96 144.84 108.08 88.82 Standard deviation 0.05 3.61 0.93 0.71 1.46 Fluorescence relative to initial conditions 0 95.39 77.27 40.51 21.25% ROS / 100 81.00 42.47 22.28 reduction of ROS relative to initial conditions / 0 19 58 78 The exposure of HFDPC cells to LOOH results in a marked increase in the degree of intracellular oxidation. The basal rate of ROS (non-LOOH stimulated cultures) is multiplied by 2.4 after exposure of HFDPC cells to LOOH. The oak fruit extract according to the invention, in the range of the concentrations tested, induces a very marked dose-dependent decrease in the rate of ROS. The maximum effect is recorded at the C3 concentration, with 78% reduction of the LOOH-induced ROS. Our skin (and scalp) is exposed to multiple intrinsic factors (chronological and genetic) or extrinsic (UV, IR, tobacco, diet, chronic diseases ...) responsible for the acceleration of physiological aging. When the body's natural defenses are no longer sufficient to repair the damage and trap free radicals (ROS), then there is an imbalance between the production and the degradation of the oxidizing reagents of the metabolism, we speak of oxidative stress. These uncontrolled oxidations will cause tissue damage and metabolic disorders. The oak fruit extract with antioxidant properties is an important defense to the skin to reduce oxidative stress. Under the experimental conditions mentioned above, the oak fruit extract demonstrates a dose-dependent anti-radical effect. These properties make it an ideal asset for combating oxidative stress induced mainly by peroxides. C) Examples of galenic formulations Active ingredient according to the invention: concentrated composition comprising the extract prepared above at point A) (extract diluted in a water / glycerine matrix and containing at least 0.7% of polyphenols); composition used at 3.00% then corresponding to a polyphenol content of at least 0.021%. It goes without saying that these% could vary without departing from the scope of the present invention, according to more or less pronounced effects sought.

Different formulations are described below with or without additional cosmetic active ingredients, the latter optionally coming in support and / or in addition to the activity of the active ingredient according to the invention. These ingredients can be of any category according to their function (s), the place of application (body, face, neck, bust, hands, etc.), the desired end effect and the targeted consumer.

Example 1: Hair Lotion Ingredients INCI Names% by mass Phase A Incroquat CTC 30 Cetrimonium chloride 1.00 Citric acid Citric Acid 0.22 Trisodium citrate Trisodium citrate 1.20 Sorbate Potassium sorbate 0.10 H20 Qsp Phase B Nipagin Methyl paraben 0, 20 Procetyl AWS PPG 5 Ceteth 20 2.00 Phase C Oak Fruit Extract 3.00 Phase D Crillet 1 Polysorbate 20 1.00 Perfume Fragrance 0.10 Procedure: Weigh phase A. Weigh phase B and mix. Add phase B to phase A with stirring for 30 minutes. Weigh the phase C, homogenize until a homogeneous mixture. Add phase C to phase A + B with stirring. Add phase D in the previous phase. Well homogenize. Examples of other ingredients that can be added to this formulation: Chufa milk EC: ingredient marketed by Crodarom, consisting of a vegetable milk providing the necessary nutrients to protect the scalp and hair. Example 2: Cream form Day cream Night cream Ingredients INCI names% by mass% by mass Phase A H20 Water Qsp100 Qsp100 Ultrez 10 Carbomer 0.25 0.25 Phase B Glycerin Glycerin 4.00 4.00 Phenoxyethanol Phenoxyethanol qs qs Phase C Brij S2 SS Steareth-2 0.40 0.40 Brij S10 SO Steareth-10 1.20 1.20 Crodafos CES Cetearyl alcohol & 4.00 4.00 Dicetyl phosphate & Ceteth 10 phosphate Crodacol CS 90 Cetearyl Alcohol 1.50 1.50 Laurocapram Laurocapram 2.50 2.50 BRB CM 56 Cyclopentasiloxane (and) Cyclohexasiloxane 2.00 2.00 Crodamol OSU Diethylhexyl succinate 7.00 7.00 Phase D Potassium Sorbate Potassium Sorbate 0.10 0.10 Phase E H20 Water 3.00 3.00 NaOH 30% Sodium Hydroxide 0.40 0.40 Phase F Oak Fruit Extract 3.00 3.00 Procedure: Weigh phase A and allow to swell without stirring for 30 minutes. Place phase A Weigh and mix phase B. Weigh phase C and heat to heat to 75 ° C in a water bath. 75 ° C in a bain-marie, mix well. Add phase B to phase A. Mix well. With stirring for phase C in phase A + B. Well homogenize. Add phase D, extemporaneously. Add phase E, mix well. Add phase F, mix well. Examples of other ingredients that can be added to this formulation: PhytessenceTM Cimicifuga: is an active ingredient marketed by CRODAROM that offers a treatment for oily and acne-prone skin. 3% of this ingredient can for example be added to phase E of the formulation.

Example 3: Night Balm Form Ingredients INCI Names Mass% Phase A H20 Water Qsp 100 Sodium Benzoate Sodium Benzoate qs Potassium Sorbate Potassium Sorbate qs Glycerin Glycerin 3.70 Magnesium Sulfate Magnesium Sulfate 0.70 Phase B Arlacel 986 Sorbitan Isostearate & Hydrogenated Castor Oil & Cera Alba & Stearic Acid 9.00 Syncrowax HRC Tribehenin 2.00 Magnesium Stearate Magnesium Stearate 1.00 Pripure 3759 Squalane 10.00 Crodamol GTCC Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride 5.00 Covi-Ox T90 Tocopherol 0.10 Phase C Raspberry Fruit Extract 3.00 Phase D Perfume Fragrance 0.20 Procedure: Weigh phase A and heat in a water bath at 85 ° C. Weigh phase B and heat in a water bath at 85 ° C. Weigh phase C. Before forming the emulsion, add phase C to phase A, thoroughly homogenize. Slowly pour phase A + C into phase B with vigorous stirring. Mix well with stirring to cool. Add phase D in the emulsion to 35 ° C, homogenize well. Examples of other ingredients that can be added to this formulation: Avocadin® HU25: Multifunction plant complex multifunction, marketed by Crodarom, which reduces feelings of discomfort, redness, dehydration and preserve the youthfulness of the skin by strengthening the barrier function of the epidermis. 2% w / w can be added to phase B.

PhytessenceTM Kudzu: is an active ingredient marketed by Crodarom to fight chronological aging by inhibiting the activity of MMPs responsible for the degradation of the extracellular matrix. 2% of this ingredient can for example be added to phase E of the formulation. Example 4 Form Eye Contour Gel Ingredients INCI Names% by weight Phase A H20 Water Qsp100 Potassium Sorbate Potassium Sorbate qs Sodium Benzoate Sodium Benzoate qs Phase B Butylene Glycol Vegetal Butylene Glycol 5.00 Keltrol CG-SFT Xanthan Gum 0, 60 Kelcogel CG-HA Gellan Gum 0.20 Phase C Natragem S140 Polyglyceryl-4 Laurate / Sebacate 3.00 (and) Polyglycery1-6 Caprylate / Caprate (and) Aqua Pripure 3759 Squalane Vegetal 1.00 Phase D H20 Water 0.05 Lactic Acid Lactic Acid 0.05 Phase E Raspberry Fruit Extract 3.00 Phase F Perfume Fragrance 0.10 Procedure: Weigh and homogenize phase A. Weigh phase B and mix homogeneously. Add phase B to phase A with propeller stirring. Allow to swell. Weigh phase C, homogenize. Add phase C in phase A + B with strong helix stirring. Leave to mix for 1 hour with normal helix stirring. Adjust to pH 5.50 with phase D. Homogenize with propeller stirring. Add phase E to the previous phase, mix well. Add phase F, mix well. Examples of other ingredients that can be added to this formulation: Crodarom® White Tea EC: Ingredient marketed by Crodarom, detoxifying and decongestant, ideal for the contours of eyes (acts especially on dark circles and puffiness). 2.00% can be added to phase E.

PhytessenceTM Blue Daisy: Ingredient marketed by Crodarom, soothes sensitive skin and reduces feelings of discomfort by acting on the synthesis of mediators of inflammation. Example 5: Form Mask Ingredients INCI Names% by mass Phase A H20 Water Qsp100 Sodium benzoate Sodium benzoate qs Potassium sorbate Potassium Sorbate qs Phase B Zemea Propandiol 10.00 Glycerine Bio Glycerin 10.00 Kelcogel CG HA Gellan Gum 0.50 Jaguar S Guar Gum 0.60 Phase C Alcohol Ethanol 5.00 Phase D H20 Water 1.00 Lactic acid Lactic acid 0.10 Phase E Extract of oak fruit 3.00 Phase F Perfume Fragrance 0.10 Procedure: Weigh phase A and stir with helix. Weigh and mix phase B. Slowly add phase B in phase A with stirring, well homogenize. Heat the phase A + B in a water bath at 80 ° C without stirring for 2 hours. Stir quickly, then cool with stirring. Add phase C to the previous phase, around 40 ° C. Adjust the pH to 5.50 with phase D, below 35 ° C well homogenize. Add phase E, with slow stirring. Add phase F, homogenize well. Add phase G, homogenize well. Check that the pH is 5.0-5.5. Examples of other ingredients that can be added to this formulation: PhytessenceTM Purple Ginseng: ingredient marketed by Crodarom, acting on the radiance of the complexion. 2.00% can be added at the end of formulation before phase F. Crodarom® Porcelain Flower: ingredient marketed by Crodarom, to restore the radiance of the complexion. 1% can be added to phase F. PhytessenceTM Holy Herb: ingredient marketed by CRODAROM that protects and strengthens the natural defense mechanism of the skin. 2% by weight of this ingredient may for example be added to the phase (A + B + C). Example 6: Body Cream Form Ingredients INCI Names% by mass Phase A H20 Water qs 100 Ultrez 10 Carbomer 0.40 Phase B Glycerin Glycerin 3.00 Panstate Ethyl & Methyl & Propyl Parabens 0.30 Phase C Crill 3 Sorbitan Stearate 2 , 00 Marcol 82 Mineral oil 4.00 Cromollient DP3A PPG 3 Myristyl Ether Adipate 1.00 Cithrol GMS AS Glyceryl stearate & PEG 100 3.00 stearate Phase D Potassium sorbate Potassium sorbate 0.10 Phase E NaOH 30% Sodium hydroxide 0 , 40 H20 Water 4.00 Phase F Oak Fruit Extract 3.00 G Phase Perfume Fragrance 0.10 Procedure: Weigh Phase A and allow to swell for 30 minutes. Put Phase A to heat in a water bath at 75 ° C. Heat Phase B until dissolved. Add Phase B to Phase A. Heat Phase C in a 75 ° C water bath. While stirring, pour Phase C into the Phase (A + B). Add Phase D, mix well. Neutralize with Phase E towards 55C °, well homogenize. Add Phase F, then Phase G, homogenize well. Examples of other ingredients that can be added to this formulation. Crodarom® French Saffron or Crodarom® Green Coffee: extracts marketed by Crodarom, which improve the firmness of the skin by protecting the skin from external aggressions. 2% by weight of this ingredient can for example be added to the formulation in phase G.

Example 7: Form Serum Ingredients INCI Names Mass% Phase A Optasens G 40 Carbomer 0.25 H20 Water Qsp 100 Phase B Butylene Glycol Butylene Glycol 3.00 Phenoxyethanol Phenoxyethanol 0.20 Phase C Crillet 1 Polysorbate 20 0.50 DC 245 Cyclopentasiloxane 1.00 Crodamol CAP Cetearyl Ethylhexanoate 2.00 Crodamol STS PPG-3 Benzyl Ether Myristate 0.50 Pemulen TR2 Acrylates / C 10-30 Alkyl Acrylates Cross Polymer 0.20 Phase D Potassium Sorbate Potassium Sorbate 0.10 Phase E H20 Water 4.00 NaOH 30% Sodium Hydroxiide 0.45 Phase F Oak Fruit Extract 3.00 G Phase Perfume Fragrance 0.10 Procedure: Phase A: Sprinkle carbomer in water, allow to swell for 15 minutes. Mix Phase B. Pour Phase B into Phase A, homogenize. Then Weigh Phase C, mix and add in Phase A + B, with stirring. Allow to swell 1 hour. Extemporaneously add Phase D in the previous phase with agitation. Neutralize with Phase E. Stir.

Then add Phase F. Allow to mix for at least 1 hour with stirring and then add Phase G. Mix well.

Examples of other ingredients that can be added to this formulation. PhytessenceTM Plantago: active ingredient marketed by Crodarom that reduces inflammation and redness induced after UV exposure. 4% of this ingredient can for example be added to phase F of the formulation.

Example 8: Lip Balm Ingredients INCI Names% by mass Phase A H20 qs 100% Potassium Sorbate Potassium Sorbate 0.10 Magnesium Sulphate Magnesium Sulfate 0.70 Phase B Abil EM 90 Cetyl Dimethicone Copolyol 3.00 Methyl Paraben Methyl Paraben 1.00 Syncrowax HRC Tribehenin 0.30 Crodamol STS PPG-3 Benzyl Ether Myristate 2.00 Mineral Oil Mineral Oil 19.00 Phase C Oak Fruit Extract 3.00 Phase D Perfume Fragrance 0.10 Procedure: Heat Phase A at 85 ° C. Mix Phase B and heat to 85 ° C. Mix. Slowly pour Phase A into Phase B while stirring (Staro s = 3000, then s = 1200). Add Phase C previously heated to 80 ° C, homogenize. Add Phase D to 35 ° C. Flow. Examples of other ingredients that can be added to this formulation.

PhytessenceTM Stevia GL: active ingredient marketed by Crodarom from the herb Stevia with moisturizing and softening properties. 2% of this ingredient can for example be added to phase C of the formulation. D) In Vivo Assessments The efficacy of the oak fruit extract according to the invention with respect to UVA-induced photo-oxidative stress on the skin has been shown in the in vivo test given above. -after (3-carotene test) Principle: (3-carotene is a natural substance of orange-yellow color.) Under the effect of UVA radiation, (3-carotene is discolored, as the result of a chemical process involving reactive oxygen derivatives, such as singlet oxygen, superoxide anion, hydrogen peroxide and hydroxyl radical The color change of (3-carotene can be attenuated or inhibited by a product applied to the skin with antioxidant properties Inclusion criteria: volunteers aged 31-63 years old (female> age 18) with healthy skin were included in the study Average age: 44.8 Disability Criteria: Skin Diseases and Pregnancy Formulation Used: Placebo: Demineralized Water (w ater) 69.5% MixXINTM ME (Caprylic / Capric Triglycerides (and) Glycol Stearate (and) PEG-3 Glyceryl Cocoate (and) Steareth-7) 30% Preservatives 0.5% Cream with Sodium Oak Fruit Extract : Demineralized water (water) 66% MixXINTM ME (Caprylic / Capric Triglycerides (and) Glycol Stearate (and) PEG-3 Glyceryl Cocoate (and) Steareth-7) 30% Preservatives 0.5% Oak Fruit Extract 3% Protocol: On the inner side of the forearm of each subject symmetrically opposite areas have been defined. The formulations were applied at a dose of about 2 mg / cm 2. 30 minutes after application, the solution of (3-carotene (5mg / 100m1) in n-hexane (84t1) was applied to each test area and five minutes later the staining was measured using a chromameter (b * blue-yellow axis) followed by irradiation of the sites (UVA: 10 Joule / cm2) One (control) zone remained untreated, but was stained and irradiated Five minutes after irradiation, staining The staining is standardized by the yellow blue axis b * of the chromameter.The measurements made by the chromameter will highlight the discoloration of (3-carotene induced by UVA exposure. measured b * value corresponds to a decrease in the yellow coloring of the skin The results were expressed as follows: Inhibition rate relative to the untreated zone (color index) 100 - [(colored sample - irradiated sample) / (color control - irradiated control) x 1001. Col oré = color read after staining with ß-carotene Irradiated = color read after irradiation The color index (in%) corresponds to the antioxidant efficacy of the tested product. The decrease in the measured value corresponds to a decrease in the yellow coloring of the skin due to the oxidation of carotene.

Results: Table 2 Value b * before irradiation UVA Value b * after A b * Color index irradiation UVA Antioxidant capacity (%) Skin not treated 33.72 13.53 * -20.19 / Placebo 33.81 15.04 * -18.77 7.0% *** Fruit extract of 33.73 21.87 * -11.85 41.3% ** oak at 3.5% * p <0.01 versus before UVA, * * p <0.01 versus placebo and untreated skin, *** p> 0.05 versus untreated skin Compared with untreated skin, the oak fruit extract according to the invention significantly protects the skin of the skin. oxidation whereas the placebo cream induces no effect. Compared to the placebo cream, the oak fruit extract immediately decreases the production of ROS by 34% (measured 5 minutes after irradiation) The application on the skin of a formula containing the extract of oak fruit protects the skin from damage caused by UVA causing premature tissue aging (wrinkles, blemishes and other imperfections). The fruit extract of oak is an ingredient to use in protective care to counter the harmful effects induced by free radicals and oxidative stress. It can be used both in facial and solar body and after-sun care or mask and serum protector for the skin. It is also recommended for anti-aging hair care to protect the hair follicle and participate in the maintenance of healthy hair fiber and prevent and / or treat depigmentation of the hair.

Claims (14)

REVENDICATIONS1. Polyphenol-rich oak extract that can be obtained by aqueous, alcoholic or hydro-alcoholic extraction of the fruit of the oak tree quercus petraea. 2. Extract according to claim 1, characterized in that the alcohol used for the extraction solvent is a C 1, C 2, C 3 or C 4 alcohol, or a polyol chosen from pentane-diol, sorbitol and hexanol. , or a mixture of these. 3. Extract according to claim 2, characterized in that the alcohol is ethanol or methanol 4. Composition comprising an extract according to one of claims 1 to 3 in a physiologically acceptable matrix. 5. Use of the extract according to one of claims 1 to 3, for the manufacture of a cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical composition. 6. Use of the extract according to one of claims 1 to 3 or the composition according to claim 4 for a cosmetic treatment. 7. Use according to claim 6, characterized in that it is a topical use. 8. Use according to claim 6 or 7, characterized in that the treatment is anti-radical and / or astringent. 9. Use according to one of claims 6 to 8, for a treatment selected from an anti-aging treatment, anti-wrinkle or fine lines, in particular through a strengthening of the natural defenses of the skin and scalp and a protection vis- against external aggressions, a hair treatment to maintain the growth and health of the hair, in particular thanks to the protection of the hair follicle, a firming treatment, in particular thanks to the reinforcement and maintenance of tissue and micro-capillary tonicity and / or a treatment for illuminating the complexion and / or treating oily skin, in particular by protecting the tissues and / or tightening the pores. 10. Use according to one of claims 5 to 9 for a hair treatment. 11. Use according to one of claims 5 to 10 for a treatment against canities. 12. Extract according to one of claims 1 to 3 or composition according to claim 4 for medical treatment. 13. Extract or composition according to claim 12 for topical treatment. 14. Extract or composition according to claim 12 or 13 for an anti-radical, astringent and / or anti-inflammatory treatment.