FR3056106A1 - COSMETIC USE OF A COMPOSITION COMPRISING THERMAL WATER IN ASSOCIATION WITH AT LEAST TWO OTHER ACTIVE AGENTS FOR IMPROVING THE GENERAL APPEARANCE OF THE SKIN - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention relates to the cosmetic field. It relates more particularly to the cosmetic use of a composition comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, a thermal water having a mineral concentration greater than 30 milligrams per liter, in combination with at least two other active agents chosen from an extract of witch hazel, a zinc salt and an extract of Dictyopteris membranacea, for the improvement of the general appearance of the skin, in particular of the cutaneous microrelief.

Description

(57) The present invention relates to the cosmetic field. It relates more particularly to the cosmetic use of a composition comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, a thermal water having a mineral concentration greater than 30 milligrams per liter, in combination with at least two other active agents chosen from an extract of witch hazel, a zinc salt and an extract of Dictyopteris membranacea, for improving the general appearance of the skin, in particular skin microrelief.

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COSMETIC USE OF A COMPOSITION COMPRISING THERMAL WATER IN ASSOCIATION WITH AT LEAST TWO OTHER AGENTS

ACTIVE INGREDIENTS FOR THE IMPROVEMENT OF THE GENERAL APPEARANCE OF THE SKIN

FIELD OF THE INVENTION

The present invention relates to the cosmetic field. It relates more particularly to the cosmetic use of a composition comprising a thermal water in combination with at least two other active agents. These two other active agents are advantageously chosen from the group comprising an extract of witch hazel, an extract of sea fern, also called Dictyopteris membranacea or Dictyopteris polypodiodes _r and a zinc salt. The composition is intended for improving the general appearance of the skin and, more particularly, for improving the skin microrelief.

PRIOR ART

The skin is the largest organ in the human body. It represents approximately 4% (or more broadly from 4 to 7%) of its total weight. Composed of several layers of tissue, the skin forms a protective barrier for the body against the outside environment, and also performs other vital functions. In particular, it performs multiple functions such as sensory, immune, metabolic or even thermoregulatory functions. All of these functions are made possible by the complex structure of the skin, which combines various tissue structures. The skin is more particularly made up of three separate superimposed layers: the epidermis, the dermis and the hypodermis.

The epidermis designates the outer and superficial layer of the skin. It covers the dermis and the hypodermis. The epidermis is a coating epithelium, which ensures its protective function, thanks to the cohesion of the epithelial cells and by the production of a filamentous and resistant protein, keratin. The barrier function of the skin is based in particular on the quality of the epidermis, which depends in particular on the state of the stratum corneum and on the balance between the proliferation and differentiation of epidermal keratinocytes. The quality and proper functioning of the skin are also closely linked to the water content of the different layers of the epidermis.

The dermis, in the intermediate position, is a connective tissue made up of a fundamental substance in which fibroblasts, collagen fibers and elastin fibers evolve, protein fibers synthesized by fibroblasts. Collagen fibers provide much of the strength of the dermis. They participate in the elasticity and, above all, in the tone of the skin and / or mucous membranes.

The hypodermis, located deep, and consisting mainly of fatty lobules (adipocytes), provides a primary support function, mechanical and thermal protection and also plays a role in storing energy reserves.

Healthy skin is particularly well hydrated skin. It is then soft, firm, flexible and elastic. Indeed, the dermis is made up of a cellular structure whose main mission is to ensure the hydration of our skin. In the epidermis, lamellae of horny cells, composed of protective keratin in the form of superimposed layers, serve as a barrier to retain water and filter its evaporation. The skin is made up of about 70% water, or 1/5 of the water stored in our body. The hydration of the stratum corneum of the epidermis is the result of three factors: the supply of water from the dermis, the loss of water to the external environment and the capacity of the stratum corneum to fix the water molecules. A cellular cushion made up of fatty substances based on lipids and, more particularly, on ceramides, prevents water from evaporating. It is he who determines the natural hydration factor of our epidermis. A hydrated epidermis has a normal rate of hydration between 13% and 15%. When this rate drops to 10%, the skin is dehydrated.

Dehydration contributes to dry skin. Whether it is naturally dry, mixed, normal or oily, the skin can be dehydrated by external aggressions, whether they are physical aggressions (shocks, temperature variations, winds, exposure to the sun ...) or chemical attacks (surfactants, irritants, ...).

Thus, all the factors of dehydration of the skin, whether they are exogenous or endogenous, lead to premature aging of the skin and to deterioration of the skin microrelief.

Skin aging is manifested by a number of biochemical changes in the epidermis and dermis. There are many potential targets (lipids, proteins, DNA), the degradation of which due to oxidative stress causes, among other things, an alteration in the elasticity of tissues, early aging, or inflammation. Due to a less rapid renewal of keratinocytes and an accumulation of corneocytes, the epidermis thins in favor of a thickening of the stratum corneum, causing wrinkles and roughness to appear. The consistency of the surface hydrolipidic film is also modified, the skin becoming dry and losing its suppleness. Pigmentary irregularities (brown spots) may appear due to a disturbance in the melanocytic system. The dermis is also thinned due to decreases in the number of fibroblasts and the production of collagen, causing the appearance of deep wrinkles. The alteration of elastin fibers causes a loss of elasticity and flexibility.

Aging manifests itself in a very heterogeneous way according to the parts of the body. The areas exposed to extrinsic factors (sources of oxidative stress) undergo accelerated aging compared to the areas subject only to the effects of intrinsic factors where the skin remains softer, thinner, less wrinkled.

When the epidermis is not properly hydrated, directly, for lack of water or, indirectly, for lack of essential fatty acids, the skin loses its suppleness and becomes dull. The radiance of the skin is a sign of the good oxygenation of its skin tissues. If there is not enough water in the dermis, the exchanges are less good between the different skin layers, resulting in a stiffening of the collagen and elastin fibers. Keratinocytes, epidermal cells that guarantee the integrity of the skin barrier, organize less well. The proper renewal of the epidermis is compromised. Dehydrated skin is dull, rough or rough to the touch, sometimes streaked, even cracked, and thinly thin.

Cosmetic professionals have been looking for means for many years to prevent the effects of premature aging of the skin. More particularly, they target compositions intended for the improvement of skin microrelief. Skincare products are known which include a combination of numerous active agents, especially from plants.

The use of sugar derivatives is more particularly known for compositions having hydrating and restructuring properties. For example, the Aguaxyl ™ product is a derivative of two sugars of plant origin, xylitol and glucose. This product makes it possible to optimize the skin's hydrous flows, in particular by promoting and controlling the circulation of water, and also by increasing the water reserves of the skin.

We also know the Eclat Mat product - Stop Local Imperfections - SOS Healthy Skin Care® (Clarins®) mistletoe is a facial treatment comprising a combination of extracts of witch hazel, white lamier and wintergreen as well as allantoin, vitamin B6 and zinc to reduce blemishes and soothe the skin.

We still know the product Water Volume Agua Gel Cream® (Mizon®) which includes in particular as active agents from Alaskan ice water, sea water, Hita water, birch sap, hyaluronic acid, marine collagen, as well gue extracts of melon, lotus and witch hazel, to soothe the tightness of the skin and fight imperfections.

We finally know the Hydrintense ™ product, which helps to resist dehydration thanks to the use of the red microalga Porphyridium cruentum. This product improves the skin's microrelief and enhances the appearance of the skin.

However, nothing describes that the activity of such products is essentially due to the presence of a plant extract or of a compound in particular given the large number of active ingredients taken in combination in their respective composition.

In general, there is a need for new compositions having properties to fight against premature aging of the skin and in particular having good cosmetic activity in improving the appearance of the skin.

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION

Considering the above, a problem which the invention proposes to solve is to produce a cosmetic composition comprising for example a plurality of antioxidant, soothing, sebo-regulating, astringent, and / or smoothing agents, acting in synergy for a treatment aimed at improving the microrelief of the skin, resulting in an improvement in the general appearance of the skin.

The first object of the solution proposed by the invention to this problem is a cosmetic use of a composition comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, thermal water having a mineral concentration greater than 30 milligrams per liter, in combination with at least two other active agents chosen from an extract of witch hazel, a zinc salt and an extract of Dictyopteris membranacea, for improving the general appearance of the skin.

Its second object is a composition for cosmetic use as described above, characterized in that it comprises, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, thermal water having a mineral concentration greater than 30 milligrams per liter, in combination with at least two other active agents chosen from an extract of witch hazel, a zinc salt and an extract of Dictyopteris membranacea.

Advantageously: - the thermal water is a thermal water from Jonzac; the composition comprises between 5% and 98% of thermal water by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; the composition comprises the extract of witch hazel; - The composition comprises between 4% and 60% of witch hazel extracts by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; - The composition comprises the zinc salt, preferably a zinc salt of pyrrolidone carboxylic acid; - The composition comprises between 0.01% and 10% of the zinc salt by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; the composition also comprises an extract of Dictyopteris membranacea; the composition comprises between 0.1% and 10% of Dictyopteris membranacea extract by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; the composition comprises by weight relative to the total weight of the composition: between 15% and 95% of thermal water from Jonzac, and between 4.50% and 55% of witch hazel extract, and / or between 0, 01% and 5% zinc salt, and / or between 0.1% and 7% of Dictyopteris membranacea extract.

BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE FIGURES

The invention will be better understood on reading the nonlimiting description which follows, written with reference to the appended figure, in which:

FIG. 1 represents a microrelief score scale in which the correlation between the estimated age of a person and the microrelief score determined by the Diagnoskin® method is shown, in which the estimated age is plotted and, in ordinate, the microrelief score; and FIG. 2 represents the results of the evaluation of the skin microrelief on two volunteers;

FIG. 3 represents the results expressed in microrelief score of the evaluation of the skin microrelief on seven volunteers at the different measurement times;

FIG. 4 represents the results of the percentage of improvement in skin microrelief as a score between the initial state before application and the measurement times 20 min and 30 days.

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

The invention relates to the cosmetic use of a composition comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, thermal water having a mineral concentration greater than 30 milligrams per liter, in combination with two other active agents chosen from an extract of witch hazel, a zinc salt and an extract of Dictyopteris membranacea, for improving the general appearance of the skin and, in particular, for improving the skin microrelief.

By way of non-limiting example, it may preferably be cited thermal waters such as water from Vichy, Avène, d'Uriage, Jonzac, Bourbonne-les-Bains, Rochefort-sur-mer, Balarucles-Bains, La Roche Posay, Motlig-les-Bains, Saint Gervais-les-Bains, Fumades-les-Bains.

In a preferred embodiment of the invention, the thermal water is Jonzac thermal water.

The thermal water of Jonzac is more particularly a so-called hyperthermal water, whose emergence temperature is 62 ° C, and the pH is at 6.95.

Jonzac thermal water is a sulphurized, mixed sulphated, sodium chlorinated water, rich in trace elements and which has strong mineralization. It is more particularly composed of bicarbonates 193 mg / 1, sulfates 2400 mg / 1, chlorides 2100 mg / 1, ammonium 1.8 mg / 1, calcium 470 mg / 1, magnesium 90 mg / 1, potassium 100 mg / 1, sodium 1600 mg / 1, strontium 16 mg / 1, silica 10 mg / 1, zinc 0.04 mg / 1, lithium 2.1 mg / 1, copper <0 , 02 mg / 1, manganese <0.005 mg / 1, fluoride <0.0017 mg / 1, boron 3.6 mg / 1, selenium <0.005 mg / 1, aluminum 0.05 mg / 1 , total sulfur 750 mg / 1.

Jonzac thermal water has a large number of properties recognized in human health. The Léa ™ laboratories have shown in particular that the Jonzac thermal water treated, preserved or raw, could be considered non-irritant after 48 consecutive hours of application ίο under an occlusive dressing like Finn Chambers ™ in 10 volunteers. Hypoallergenic properties have also been recognized in Jonzac thermal water, as well as isotonic, anti-inflammatory and regenerative properties. In vivo tests carried out by Léa ™ laboratories have highlighted the soothing properties of Jonzac thermal water on an erythema caused by exposure to UVB, compared to a control site exposed under the same conditions. The thermal water of Jonzac allows more particularly to reduce the erythema induced by UVB compared to the untreated control site. Léa ™ Laboratories have also been able to demonstrate the action of Jonzac thermal water on cell differentiation through the production of keratin by keratinocytes. More particularly, Jonzac thermal water stimulates the basal expression of keratin, demonstrating a prodifferent effect of Jonzac thermal water on the level of keratinocytes. Furthermore, ex vivo tests have also been able to show that treatment with Jonzac thermal water at 1% allows thickening of the total epidermis, in particular at the level of the stratum corneum. Léa ™ Laboratories have also been able to show that Jonzac thermal water stimulates the expression of the skin's natural defenses, in particular by increasing the expression of β-defensin 2.

According to a preferred embodiment, the cosmetic composition used according to the invention comprises between 5% and 98% of thermal water from Jonzac by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The cosmetic composition used according to the invention more preferably comprises between 15% and 95% of thermal water from Jonzac by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Even more preferably, the cosmetic composition used according to the invention comprises between 30% and 65% of thermal water from Jonzac by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

The composition used according to the invention also comprises an extract of witch hazel.

Witch hazel (Witch hazel virginiana) is a shrub native to Northeast America and Canada. It is however present more in the South, in Florida, in Louisiana and in Texas. In Europe, especially in France, and for example in Ardèche, the plant is cultivated as an ornamental shrub because it has the specificity of flowering in autumn. Witch hazel grows on limestone soils and on the shaded banks of streams, on the edge of humid forests.

The witch hazel extract used according to the present invention is for example a distillate of dried leaves of organic witch hazel virginiana. This distillate can also be called witch hazel floral water or even witch hazel hydrosol.

For witch hazel floral water, the aerial parts, once harvested, dried and possibly coarsely ground, are distilled in a stage called hydrodistillation which is carried out with water (natural or distilled).

Hydrodistillation is for example carried out according to a witch hazel / floral water ratio obtained of 1/1. For 1 kg of plant, 1 kg of witch hazel floral water is recovered. However, the hydrodistillation can also be carried out in a weight / weight ratio which can be between approximately 1/1 and approximately 1/20. Advantageously, the weight / weight ratio is between approximately 1/4 and 1/5. Even more preferably, the ratio is around 1 / 4.5.

Floral water is for example produced during the steam distillation of the aerial parts of witch hazel. In this distillation operation, conventionally, the water contained in a container is brought to a boil. The water vapor diffuses through the previously dried plants so that the plant cells burst. The water vapor is then charged with soluble active principles which are dissolved. A distillate essentially composed of floral water is then recovered in another container after condensation in the refrigerant. The floral water thus recovered is in the form of a transparent, colorless liquid. In order to conserve the floral water obtained, it is possible, for example, to envisage the process according to which the floral water is filtered at 0.2 μm, then conserved by the addition of a preservative system (sodium benzoate 0.2% , DERMOSOFT ™ 700B 0.4% and lactic acid 0.28%), in a chosen quantity which does not harm the interesting properties of floral water. The floral water can then be considered natural and organic.

Witch hazel leaves contain carbohydrates such as oses (especially witch hazel), traces of lipids including fatty acids, organic acids (1% quinic acid), mineral materials (4-5%), compounds phenolics represented by phenolic acids (gallic and caffeic acids), flavonoids including flavonols such as quercetin glucosides (quercitrine and isoquercitrine), kaempferol (astragaline and afzelin) and myricetin (myricitrine), flavanols (epigallocatechin, catechin , epicatechin, gallocatechin and their gallate derivatives) and tannins (5 to 10%) including hydrolyzable tannins (8 to 10% of gallic tannins, including traces of witch hazel), condensed tannins (oligoproanthocyanidins (prodelphinidines and procyanidins) ) and catechic tannins, and phloroglucinols, terpenoids (saponins), 0.01 to 0.5% essential oil containing phenolic compounds such as phenols (eug enol, carvacrol and safrole), terpenoids from the sesquiterpene group and various volatile compounds (acetaldehyde, alpha- and beta-ionones), 0.2% choline and resins.

The witch hazel leaves are astringent and softening, due to the presence of tannins. The extracts from its leaves stimulate skin microcirculation and can be used in the preparation of products for the care of damaged, dry, irritated skin and to treat diffuse redness.

Witch hazel is recognized for its softening, soothing, emollient, anti-aging, antioxidant, astringent, hydrating, purifying, refreshing, remineralizing, toning and revitalizing, anti-redness, or even activating microcirculation properties. Witch hazel is also known to be used in sunscreen products.

A panel study on witch hazel floral water was carried out on 37 volunteers, in order to measure the acceptability and effectiveness of the product. The panel is made up only of women, 80% of whom are over 40, and who have combination to oily skin. The test was carried out over a period of 28 days with a twice-daily application (morning and evening) on the entire face. 70% and 76% of the panel believes that witch hazel floral water has astringent and calming properties respectively. Regarding the overall performance of the product, 100% of the panel indicates that the texture of the product allows easy application, 62% of the panel notes a pleasant fragrance, and 81% of the panel indicates that an immediate feeling of freshness is felt on application .. Regarding the immediate performance after an application of witch hazel floral water, the results of the panel are shown in Table 1.

Skin properties after floral water application witch hazel % satisfaction of the panel Regenerated 43% Restructured 40.5% Revitalized 49% Remineralized 40.5% Toned 67% Sweet 84% Resourced 62% Decrease in gloss 62% Matified 57% Purified 70% Soothed 65% Silky 57% Hydrated 59.5% Glowing complexion 59.5% Unified complexion 59.5% Bright complexion 58% Tight pores 57% Reduced pore size 54% Reduced redness 54%

Table 1: Properties of the skin after application of witch hazel floral water.

Regarding the performance after 28 days of using witch hazel floral water twice daily, the results of the panel are shown in Table 2.

Skin properties after floral water application witch hazel % satisfaction of the panel Regenerated 68% Restructured 65% Revitalized 68% Remineralized 65% Toned 78% Sweet 83% Resourced 73% Decrease in gloss 76% Matified 70% Purified 76% Soothed 76% Silky 70% Hydrated 73% Glowing complexion 65% Unified complexion 76% Bright complexion 65% Tight pores 78% Reduced pore size 68% Reduced redness 68%

Table 2: Properties of the skin after 28 days 10 of using witch hazel floral water in twice-daily application.

Thus, it is noted an evolution of the effectiveness of the floral water of witch hazel after an application and after 28 days of twice daily application on the skin. The skin texture is refined and the skin is smoothed. The active witch hazel therefore has astringent properties in the perfection of the skin.

In a preferred embodiment, the composition used according to the present invention comprises between 4% and 60% of witch hazel extracts by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The composition used according to the invention, more preferably comprises between 4.50% and 55% of witch hazel extracts by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Even more preferably, the cosmetic composition used according to the invention comprises between 15% and 50% of witch hazel extracts by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

The composition used according to the invention also comprises a zinc salt.

In nature, zinc is not present in free form, it is mainly found in the +2 oxidation state. All the tissues, organs and fluids in the body of a human being contain zinc which is one of the essential trace elements. The skin and appendages are rich in it, and contain about 20% of the total body. Zinc is 5 to 6 times more concentrated in the epidermis than in the dermis (Rostan et al., "Evidence supporting zinc as an important antioxidant for skin", 2002).

In an embodiment according to the invention, the zinc salt is a zinc salt of pyrrolidone carboxylic acid (zinc PCA) which has the formula CioHi ₂ N ₂ OeZn having the following chemical structure:

Zinc PCA is a white to beige crystalline powder, soluble in water and used from pH 5 to 6. It is composed of 70.4% to 74% of PCA, 17.4% to 19.2 % zinc and 8.5% to 11.5% water.

Zinc is particularly known for its inhibitory activity of 5-a reductase, an enzyme which converts testosterone to dihydrotestosterone, thus reducing hyperseborrhea which is one of the factors for the appearance of skin imperfections. Its activity is improved thanks to the association with the PCA. It also has anti-inflammatory properties, in particular by reducing the production of certain markers of keratinocyte activation such as ICAM-1 and TNF-α, and by regulating the production of nitric oxide, mediator of inflammation in endothelial cells. Zinc is also known to have an antioxidant role for example by inducing the synthesis of metallothionein, protein which protects from free radicals. PCA zinc also has restorative and regenerative properties, stimulating the migration of keratinocytes which plays a major role in skin healing. In addition, studies have shown that Zinc PCA makes it possible to reduce the formation of wrinkles by inhibiting the formation of AP-1 (promoter of the production of collagenases) induced by UVA, and to reduce the production of matrix metalloproteases, MMP. -1. Also, the treatment of cells with PCA zinc allows an increase in the expression of mRNA of the carriers of ascorbic acid transporter 2 (SVCT2). This increase leads to an increase in the plasma concentration of ascorbic acid in fibroblasts as well as in the production of type I collagen.

In a preferred embodiment, the composition used according to the present invention comprises between 0.01% and 10% of zinc salt by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The composition used according to the invention more preferably comprises between 0.01% and 5% of zinc salt by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Even more preferably, the cosmetic composition used according to the invention comprises between 0.01% and 1% of zinc salt by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

The composition used according to the invention also comprises an extract of sea fern, also called Dictyopteris membranacea or Dictyopteris polypodiodes.

Dictyopteris membranacea is a perennial brown alga belonging to the botanical family of dictyotaceae. This alga can reach up to 10 cm in height. The sea fern is a cosmopolitan species that occurs on the dimly lit rocks of the infralittoral stage and the circalittoral stage. In the Atlantic, it is found under the fronds of kelp. It can also be found in photophilic biotopes in the southern Mediterranean.

Dictyopteris membranacea is mainly known in controlling the size, number and maturation of melanosomes for a lightening and evenening effect on the complexion.

Melanosomes are found in melanocytes. In these melanosomes, melanin is synthesized, which is then pigmented and then transported to the keratinocytes.

Melanin is a pigment that is responsible for coloring the skin and hair. Under the effect of UV exposure, the melanocytes, which are located in the lower layers of the epidermis, synthesize the melanin before transferring it to the keratinocytes which take their final coloration. The more melanocytes produce melanin, the darker the pigmentation of the skin. Thus, the appearance of dark spots is therefore due to an overproduction of melanin by the melanocytes.

Studies have shown that the extract of Dictyopteris membranacea or fern seas to one content of 3% prevents the synthesis of melanin and the maturation of melanosomes and so 1 ' export of the melanin to the

skin surface. Thus, the sea fern extract significantly reduces skin blemishes.

In a preferred embodiment, the composition used according to the present invention comprises less than 10% of Dictyopteris membranacea extract by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The composition used according to the invention more preferably comprises between 0.1% and 7% of Dictyopteris membranacea extract by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Even more preferably, the cosmetic composition used according to the invention comprises between 0.3% and 5% of Dictyopteris membranacea extract by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

In another embodiment, the composition used comprises, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, by weight relative to the total weight of the composition:

between 15% and 95% thermal water from Jonzac;

between 4.50% and 55% witch hazel extract;

between 0.01% and 10% zinc salt, and;

between 0.1% and 7% of Dictyopteris membranacea or sea fern extract.

In a second object, the invention relates to a composition for cosmetic use as described in all of the above embodiments, characterized in that it comprises, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, thermal water having a mineral concentration greater than 30 milligrams per liter, in combination with at least two other active agents chosen from an extract of witch hazel, a zinc salt and an extract of Dictyopteris membranacea.

In one embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises thermal water from Jonzac. The amount of Jonzac water used in the composition according to the invention is as described above in the description.

The composition according to the invention preferably comprises at least two other active agents selected from the group comprising an extract of witch hazel, a zinc salt and an extract of Dictyopteris membranacea. The amounts of witch hazel extract, zinc salt and Dictyopteris membranacea extract used in the composition according to the invention are as described above in the description.

In another embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, by weight relative to the total weight of the composition:

Between 5% and 95% thermal water from Jonzac; Between 4, 50% and 55% witch hazel extract; Between 0, 01% and 5% of the zinc salt, and; Between 0, 1% and 7 % of Dictyopteris membranacea

Advantageously, the composition for cosmetic use as described in all of the above embodiments, is characterized in that it is formulated for topical application in the form of an emulsion, a serum , a gel, a lotion, a micellar water, an oil, a cream, or a two-phase composition, a foam, a powder, a milk, d 'a patch or encapsulation system.

EXAMPLES

Example 1: Evaluation of the effectiveness of Jonzac thermal water alone and Jonzac thermal water combined with a zinc salt, and extracts of witch hazel and Dictyopteris membranacea, on the skin microrelief by the Diagnoskin system ®.

The aim of this study is to assess, objectively on seven volunteers, the effectiveness of two products formulated as a gel on improving skin microrelief.

Product A:

Phase INGREDIENTS% in the formula AT Jonzac water 98.1 B Xanthan gum 0.8 VS Preservatives 0.9 D Sodium Hydroxide A 30.5% 0.2

Product B:

Phase INGREDIENTS % in the formula AT Jonzac water 51, 1 AT Witch hazel floral water 40.0 AT Xanthan gum 0.8 B Extract of Dictyopteris or Fern 30 seas VS Jonzac conaorvéo water 30 VS Zinc PCA 1.0 D Preservatives 0, 9 E Sodium hydroxide at 30.5% 0.2

The hemi-face study by biometrologic measurements (cyanoacrylate surface samples by Diagnoskin ®) of the skin surface makes it possible to assess the improvement in skin microrelief between the application of Jonzac thermal water alone and Jonzac thermal water combined over a period of 30 days (T30 days).

The analysis of the cutaneous microrelief by sampling is carried out thanks to a precise morphological analysis of the parameters characterizing the cutaneous microdepression relief (primary, secondary lines, polygons ...) and makes it possible to determine a biological age of the skin and to highlight a improvement of skin microrelief by scoring.

The results obtained are quantified and expressed as an average of the statistically significant difference between the scores for Jonzac thermal water alone and associated Jonzac thermal water.

The second objective of this study is to assess the satisfaction of volunteers through a self-assessment questionnaire. The various measurements were taken during the first visit to T0, during the immediate 20 min after application of the products, noted T _ira m / and during the final visit at T30 days after a twice-daily application of each product A and B in hemi-face.

Course of the study :

The study was carried out on a panel made up of seven female volunteers aged 40 to 55 years. These women have normal to dry skin with imperfections, especially of the wrinkles and fine lines type.

Study stages:

At T0: before applying the products, carrying out biometrological measurements on each hemivisage by (1) stabilization of the volunteers in an air-conditioned room for 10 minutes; (2) verification of the inclusion and non-inclusion criteria; (3) surface sampling for the evaluation of the microrelief, then (4) delivery of the two products A and B to be tested (one product per hemi-face) and satisfaction questionnaires necessary for the study.

Products A and B are then applied.

At Tjmm, ie TO + 20 min: surface samples are taken from each hemi-face.

From TO to T29 days: twice daily application of the products to the test areas: product A on the right and product B on the left. The mode of application of the products is: two doses of product on the hemi-face morning and evening, then massage with circular movements until the penetration of the product.

At T30 days - final visit: carrying out biometrological measurements on each hemi-face by (1) stabilization of volunteers in an air-conditioned room for 10 minutes; (2) recording of adverse events when using the products; (3) surface sampling to assess the skin microrelief on each hemi-face; (4) receipt of completed satisfaction questionnaires as well as test products used during the study.

Methods used during the study:

Evaluation of skin microrelief using the Diagnoskin ® system.

Principle of the evaluation: composed of a digital microscope allowing

The Diagnoskin ® system is coupled to a camera of images of

Acquisition of surface samples. The samples are taken with cyanoacrylate to allow an evaluation of the structure of the skin microrelief and thus define a physiological age. A simple visual observation of the skin highlights the microrelief, which consists of more or less deep furrows (primary and secondary lines). The appearance of skin microrelief varies from one site to another, depending on several parameters, either intrinsic (age) or extrinsic (pollution, exposure to the sun, food, smoking, etc.). Thus, young skin is characterized by the regular mesh of primary and secondary lines, which define polygons called plateaus. The older the age, the more the mesh loses its shape and gradually becomes unstructured. The structure of the skin microrelief therefore reflects its architecture from the stratum corneum to the superficial dermis, as shown by the correlation between the structure of the primary lines and the papillary relief of the dermo-epidermal junction.

Assessment technique: Surface samples are collected by depositing a drop of cyanoacrylate on the skin and then applying, immediately after, a histological glass slide to the place where the drop of cyanoacrylate was deposited. The rapid polymerization of the glue (30 seconds) ensures painless sampling of the outer layer of the stratum corneum (approximately 4 to 6 layers of corneocytes). Observation of the sample with an optical microscope (x 2.5) lit laterally by cold light - allows analysis of the sample on a scale of 0 to 10 (according to BIO-EC), taking into account the level of integrity of the microrelief parameters (primary and secondary lines, polygons, etc.). The results of the evaluation are expressed according to a microrelief score ranging from 0 to 10, associated with the estimated age of the skin. A microrelief score scale is presented in Figure 1.

The microrelief score was determined by visual analysis of microrelief samples from 497 women aged 18 to 67 years old. The average variation between the visual examination and the estimated score is ± 0.36 (on the microrelief score scale) which is equivalent to approximately 2 years.

A representative image of the sample is recorded to illustrate the results. The Diagnoskin ® system allows the analysis of skin microrelief by establishing the score mentioned above. The microrelief of the skin is linked to the biomechanical properties of the stratum corneum and the dermis which are modified with age.

Parameters evaluated: the sample to be analyzed is collected on the surface of the cheekbones at all times.

Results of the cutaneous microrelief evaluation expressed in ages:

The results of the study are expressed in physiological age automatically determined by the system

Diagnoskin ® and are presented in Table 3.

Volunteers Ages real T0 T "* · Îiran T30 Product AT Product B Product AT Product B Product AT Product B 1 47 47 45 48 43 40 - 2 51 50 47 45 45 45 40 3 45 50 50 50 50 43 44 4 45 48 48 46 45 48 48 5 45 40 40 39 39 39 39 6 45 50 47 53 50 49 45 7 42 45 43 45 43 44 42 Average 47.70 47.14 45.71 46.57 45.00 44.00 43.00 Standard deviation 4.24 3.67 3.35 4.43 3.96 3.74 3.35

Table 3: Results of the evaluation of products A and B on the skin microrelief of 7 volunteers expressed in ages.

Results on two volunteers are presented in Figure 2.

Averages of ages difference % of respondents T0 T30 T30 T30 Product AT 47.14 ± 3.67 46.57 ± 4.43 44.00 ± 3.74 0.57 ± 2.51 3.14 ± 3.08 43 86 Product B 45.71 ± 3.35 45.00 ± 3.96 43.00 ± 3.35 0.71 ± 1.98 2.83 ± 2.93 57 83

Table 4: Summary of the study of the evaluation of products A and B on the skin microrelief of 7 volunteers.

Immediately after application, we observe between TO

Ί 5 p ψ

An improvement in skin microrelief for product A, which is expressed by a decrease in the average physiological age of 0.57 years with a maximum decrease of 5 years. A decrease in physiological age is observed in 43% of volunteers. An improvement in skin microrelief for product B which is expressed by a reduction in the average physiological age of 0.71 years for product B with a maximum decrease of 3 years.

A decrease in physiological age is observed in 57% of volunteers.

Conclusion: Immediately after application, products A and B allow an improvement in skin microrelief which results in rejuvenation with an average gain of 0.57 years for A and 0.71 years for B in physiological age

After 30 days of use we observe between TO and T30 days:

A significant average decrease of 3.14 years in physiological age by the use of Product A with a maximum decrease of 7 years. A decrease in physiological age is observed in 86% of the volunteers. Product B has a slightly superior action to product A A significant average decrease of 2.83 years in physiological age by the use of Product B with a maximum decrease of 7 years. A decrease in physiological age is observed in 83% of volunteers.

Conclusion: After 30 days of application, products A and B allow an improvement in skin microrelief which results in rejuvenation with an average gain of 3.14 years for A and 2.83 years for B in physiological age. Product A has a slightly greater action than product B on the skin microrelief.

Cutaneous microrelief evaluation results expressed in scores:

Volunteers Ages real TO T "* · Îiran T30 Product AT Product B Product AT Product B Product AT Product B 1 47 4 4 4 5 5 - 2 51 3 4 4 4 4 5

3 45 3 3 3 3 5 5 4 45 4 4 4 4 4 4 5 45 5 5 6 6 6 6 6 45 3 4 3 3 4 4 7 42 4 5 4 5 5 5 Average 47.70 3.71 4.14 4.00 4.29 4.71 4.83 Standard deviation 4.24 0.76 0.69 1.00 1.11 0.76 0.75

Table 5: Results of the evaluation of products A and B on the skin microrelief of 7 volunteers expressed in score.

Average of scores obtained % variation % of respondents TO T30 T30 T30 Product AT 3.71 ± 0.76 4.00 ± 1.00 4.71 ± 0.76 8% 27% 29% 86% Product B 4.14 ± 0.69 4.29 ± 1.11 4.83 ± 0.75 3% 16% 29% 50%

Table 6: Summary of the study of the evaluation of products A and B on the skin microrelief of 7 volunteers.

Immediately after application, we observe between TO and: an improvement in the skin microrelief for product A which is expressed by an average increase of 8% in the score with a maximum increase of 33%. An increase in score is observed in 29% of the volunteers. An improvement in skin microrelief for product B which is expressed by an average increase of 3% in the score with a maximum increase of 25%. An increase in score is observed in 29% of the volunteers.

Conclusion: Immediately after application, products A and B allow a slight improvement in skin microrelief which results in an improvement in the average score of 8% for product A and 3% for the product

B.

After 30 days of use we observe between T0 and T30:

An improvement in skin microrelief for product A, which is expressed by an average increase of 27% in the score with a maximum increase of 67%. An increase in score is observed in 86% of the volunteers. An improvement in skin microrelief for product B, which is expressed by an average increase of 16% in the score with a maximum increase of 67%. An increase in score is observed in 50% of the volunteers.

Conclusion: After 30 days of application, products A and B allow an improvement in skin microrelief which results in an average increase of 27% in the score for A and 16% for B. Product A has a superior action than product B on the skin microrelief.

Questionnaire results expressed as a percentage

a) After the first application, does the product leave a perception of:

Yes No Smooth skin Product A 80 20 Product B 89 11

Unified skin Product A 60 40 Product B 67 33 Toned skin Product A 70 30 Product B 78 22 Soft skin Product A 70 30 Product B 78 22

b) From the first applications:

Okay Disagree The imperfections are attenuated Product A 50 50 Product B 55 44 The skin texture is refined Product A 70 30 Product B 70 30 The relief is smoothed on the surface Product A 70 30 Product B 70 30 The skin is more smooth Product A 80 20 Product B 89 11 The skin is more sweet Product A 70 30 Product B 80 20 The skin is sanitized Product A 50 50 Product B 60 40 Soothed skin Product A 70 30 Product B 70 30 The skin is hydrated Product A 50 50 Product B 60 40

c) After 30 days of twice daily application:

Okay Disagree The imperfections are attenuated Product A 40 60 Product B 50 50 The skin texture Product A 50 50

is refined Product B 60 40 The complexion East Product AT 66 33 unified Product B 70 30 The complexion East Product AT 40 60 luminous, gorgeous Product B 50 50 The relief East Product AT 70 30 smoothed on the surface Product B 70 30 The defects of the Product AT 40 60 complexion dimmed are Product B 70 30 Pores are Product AT 60 40 less visible, tightened Product B 60 40 The skin is more Product AT 90 10 smooth Product B 90 10 The skin East Product AT 80 20 sweet Product B 80 20 The skin East Product AT 60 40 sanitized Product B 80 20 The skin East Product AT 60 40 soothed Product B 80 20 The skin East Product AT 60 40 hydrated Product B 60 40 The skin East Product AT 30 70 regenerated Product B 50 50 The skin East Product AT 60 40 matified Product B 70 30 Wrinkles and or Product AT 50 50 ridiculous smoothed are Product B 60 40

Conclusion:

The immediate action of products A and B as well as their effectiveness at 30 days could be measured on a panel of 10 volunteers with normal to dry facial skin.

Immediately after application, the product B soothes, tones the skin and gives a feeling of softness. It should also be noted that its surface action makes it possible to refine the skin texture for an immediate smoothing sensation. The effectiveness of product B is superior to product A on the smoothing effect, the attenuation of imperfections, the softness and the hydrating effect.

After twice-daily use of the product over 30 days, a better action of product B compared to product A is felt in terms of a uniform and luminous complexion, the mattifying and soothing effect, as well as the smoothing effect of wrinkles and fine lines. . Skin blemishes are more blurred and the skin texture is more refined by product B.

Claims (10)

1. Cosmetic use of a composition comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, a thermal water having a mineral concentration greater than 30 milligrams per liter, in combination with at least two other active agents chosen from an extract of witch hazel, a salt zinc and an extract of Dictyopteris membranacea, for improving the general appearance of the skin. 2. Use according to claim 1, characterized in that the thermal water is a thermal water from Jonzac. 3. Use according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the composition comprises between 5% and 98% of thermal water by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. 4. Use according to one preceding, characterized in that comprises the extract of witch hazel. claims that the composition 5. Use according to claim characterized in that the composition comprises between and 60% of witch hazel extracts by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. 4, 4% at 6. Use according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition comprises the zinc salt, preferably a zinc salt of pyrrolidone carboxylic acid. 7. Use according to claim 6, characterized in that the composition comprises between 0.01% and 10% of the zinc salt by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. 8. Use according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition also comprises an extract of Dictyopteris membranacea. 9. Use according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition comprises by weight relative to the total weight of the composition: between 15% and 95% of thermal water from Jonzac, and; between 4.50% and 55% witch hazel extract, and / or; between 0.01% and 5% zinc salt, and / or; between 0.1% and 7% of Dictyopteris membranacea extract. 10. Composition for cosmetic use according to one of claims 1 to 9, characterized in that it comprises, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, a thermal water having a mineral concentration greater than 30 milligrams per liter, in combination with at at least two other active agents chosen from an extract of witch hazel, a zinc salt and an extract of Dictyopteris membranacea. 1/4