LU93280B1 - Cosmetic composition based on extracts of Avena sativa, Lens esculenta and Tropaeolum majus - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition with topical application comprising, as active ingredient, at least one extract of Avena sativa, at least one extract of Lens esculenta and at least one extract of Tropaeolum my juice. It also relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic process for skin care using such a composition, as well as to the non-therapeutic use of such a cosmetic composition for skin care, and in particular to improve the skin care. radiance of the complexion and the overall appearance of the face, by attenuating the unsightly appearance of the enlarged pores, responsible for an irregularity of the cutaneous relief, and presenting an anti-wrinkle effect and / or immediate and long-term tightening of the skin. 93280

Description

Cosmetic composition based on extracts of Avena sativa, Lens esculenta and Tropaeolum majus

The present invention relates to the general technical field of cosmetic care and / or make-up products, for topical use, which can be used in particular on the skin.

More specifically, the present invention relates to a cosmetic composition with topical application comprising, as active ingredient, at least one extract of Avena sativa, at least one extract of Lens esculenta and at least one extract of Tropaeolum majus. It also relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic process for skin care using such a composition, as well as to the non-therapeutic use of such a cosmetic composition for skin care, and in particular to improve the skin care. overall appearance of the face by increasing the radiance of the complexion, by reducing the unsightly appearance of the enlarged pores, responsible for an irregularity of the cutaneous relief, while having an anti-wrinkle effect and / or immediate and long-term tightening effect skin.

The skin is a real organ comprising several integrated layers, ranging from the superficial layer, the epidermis, to the deeper layers, the dermis and the hypodermis, and each of these layers has specific properties allowing the whole react and adapt to the conditions of his environment. The epidermis, mainly composed of keratinocytes, melanocytes and Langerhans cells, plays a fundamental role in ensuring the protection and maintenance of good trophicity. Keratinocytes are extremely dynamic cells that undergo permanent proliferation and differentiation by which they are transformed into dead cells (corneocytes), regularly removed by desquamation.

The dermis consists mainly of collagen, elastin and proteoglycans, molecules synthesized by dermal fibroblasts. Collagen fibers provide the mechanical strength and texture of the skin, elastin is responsible for elasticity, and proteoglycans, combining protein and glycosaminoglycan, play a major role in the structure and hydration of the skin. Glycosaminoglycans, such as hyaluronic acid, are highly hygroscopic molecules that are able to retain significant amounts of water. Other cells, such as macrophages and leucocytes, are also present in the dermis layer. The hypodermis, which is the deepest layer of the skin, contains lipid-producing fat cells so that the subcutaneous tissue makes a lipid layer that protects muscles, bones, and internal organs from shock.

During the aging process, the structure of the skin and its cutaneous functions change: the main clinical signs of skin aging include the appearance of fine lines and deep wrinkles, increasing with age. There is also a disorganization of the "grain" of the skin, that is to say that the microrelief is less regular and has an anisotropic character. Alterations in cell metabolism during skin aging also lead to a dull, pale and tired complexion.

The aging of the skin can be intrinsic and extrinsic, that is to say caused by the environment, in particular by climatic aggressions, which can notably contribute to accelerate the degradation of collagen of the dermis, such as exposure to the skin. sun, temperature variations and free radicals. The first signs of aging skin, such as wrinkles and fine lines, are usually caused by stress and biological and physiological changes, accelerated by the external environment or lifestyles.

Follicular pores are apertures on the cutaneous surface, which have a funnel-shaped structure whose base is located in the middle dermis, and which are associated with a sebaceous gland. These orifices, visible to the naked eye, can be at the origin of unsightly skin defects during their dilation. This cosmetic problem of dilation of the pores of the skin, often associated with the problem of cutaneous brilliance, concerns men as well as women irrespective of their ethnic origin and their age. Many exogenous or endogenous factors influence pore enlargement such as genetic predispositions, hormonal factors, UV exposure, aging or seborrhea.

Pulsed light, peels or retinoic acid creams are used to reduce pore size. The patent FR 2 945 209 describes for example the use of an active ingredient from Lens culinaris or Lens esculenta, as an agent capable of reducing the surface of the pores of the skin.

The complexion, sometimes called complexion, is the color of the skin. It can be more or less dark, more or less homogeneous, depending on the genetic profile, habits of life of each other. The complexion owes its color to the presence of melanin, a molecule made in the melanocytes of the epidermis.

Bright and steady for years, the complexion begins to tarnish and fade with age. This slow process can be accelerated by external elements. The evolution of the complexion over the years is due to skin cells that start to work less well. These breed less quickly and some accumulate on the surface. Blood circulation slows down, resulting in decreased oxygen and nutrients to the skin. Less oxygenated and nourished, it loses its uniform appearance. This natural process of aging can be accelerated by external factors such as fatigue, stress or pollution. However, the elements that play on the evolution of the complexion are numerous and they do not act in the same way in each individual. The evolution of the complexion is thus difficult to predict.

Although dependent on many factors, the radiance of the complexion and the color of the skin are conditioned in particular by the rate of oxygenation of the skin. Oxygen supply is also essential for skin cells to produce the energy needed for their metabolic needs and to ensure homeostasis and vitality of the skin. Oxygen is transported to tissues via the cutaneous microcirculatory network where it is reversibly attached to hemoglobin to form oxyhemoglobin. In the vicinity of the cells, the oxygen dissociates from the hemoglobin and diffuses through the capillary wall towards the extracellular medium. It is then captured by the cell and transported to the mitochondria where the respiratory chain reactions take place to produce cellular energy. The energy produced by the cells is therefore closely dependent on a constant supply of oxygen. Since it does not have mechanisms for storing this oxygen, skin cells are totally dependent on the complex phenomena of oxygen transport and diffusion.

Any imbalance between oxygen supply and demand leads to the appearance of tissue hypoxia which is accompanied by an alteration of the cellular metabolic machine. Such an imbalance results from an increase in oxygen demand and / or a reduction in its intake, as a consequence of inadequate transport or reduced intracellular diffusion.

Equipped with oxygen sensor systems, the skin has an induced and rapid adaptation capacity when it is subjected to a lack of oxygen. However, this ability to respond and adapt to hypoxic stress is attenuated with age.

It is also known that under the influence of risky behaviors such as smoking or with age, the state of oxygenation of the skin decreases sharply. A rarefaction of cutaneous capillaries and a flattening of the dermal-epidermal junction observed lead to an impoverishment of nutrient and oxygen inputs and a progressive loss of cutaneous exchanges.

These changes result in an alteration of cellular metabolism, an atrophy of the epidermis and dermis leading to premature cutaneous aging and a dull, pale and tired complexion.

Extracts of Tropaelum majus have been described in the international application WO2012 / 045974 as a cosmetic solution for promoting the oxygenation of the cutaneous tissue, in particular such extracts contain an active principle that makes it possible both to restore the hypoxic stress response capacity. and to facilitate the intracellular diffusion of oxygen.

Finally, aging is also manifested by the loss of mechanical strength and viscoelastic properties of the dermis. The skin then tends to expand under the influence of its own weight, thus causing surface deformations, the formation of wrinkles and unsightly folds. The epidermis also loses its thickness and the cutaneous microrelief is modified.

Many substances have been used to meet tensing needs such as synthetic polymers or proteins. The patent application WO2008 / 035019 describes an active ingredient obtained from bran and / or fibers and / or oat seeds providing a tight and tonic skin feeling and having an immediate tightening and anti-wrinkle effect.

However, these existing treatments are not really satisfactory in particular that they act on a problem in isolation with immediate effect. However, consumers are looking for new cometic products capable of simultaneously treating multiple problems, and intended to improve the appearance of keratin materials and in particular the skin, in particular the appearance of its surface (visible irregularities and / or tactile), the skin's complexion, an outward sign of good health, health and youth, and resulting in an improvement of the overall appearance of the face, these products also having an immediate effect as well as a long-term effect.

There is therefore a need for a cosmetic product that can be used topically and to simultaneously treat each of these problems not only immediately but also in the long term.

Thus, the present invention firstly relates to a cosmetic composition with topical application comprising at least one cosmetically acceptable support, characterized in that it comprises, as active ingredient, at least one extract of Lens esculenta, at least one extract Avena sativa and at least one extract of Tropaeolum majus.

Indeed, the work carried out by the Applicant has shown that the combination of at least one extract of Lens esculenta, at least one extract of Avena sativa and at least one extract of Tropaeolum majus provides not only an effect short-term smoothing of the skin microrelief and a short-term effect on the skin texture by reducing the pore surface, but also a long-term effect on the improvement of the skin microrelief by the reduction of wrinkles and fine lines, an effect smoothing long-term skin microrelief and long-term improvement in radiance.

In the context of the present invention, the term "short-term effect", or immediate effect, is understood to mean an effect occurring between the single application of the composition and one hour after the application of the composition.

"Long-term effect" means an effect occurring after at least 28 days of twice-daily application.

In the context of the present invention, the term "smoothing effect", in the short or long term, an action on sagging skin, which provides a feeling of tense and tonic skin, an immediate tightening effect and an improvement in mechanical properties skin, and a decrease in visible and / or tactile irregularities.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "improvement of the radiance of the complexion" means the modification of at least one of the following parameters: an improvement of the skin texture, in fact, the irregularity of the cutaneous surface is correlated with the dullness of the skin, - an increase in the radiance of the skin which is characteristic of a radiant complexion: the greater the intensity of the light catching on the prominent areas of the face, the brighter the skin, - an increase in the pink component of the skin color. The light pink color characterizes a radiant complexion. The more the complexion is pink, the more it is perceived as fresh, - an improvement of the homogeneity of the color of the skin and its spatial distribution on the whole face (good-looking effect), - a decrease of the olive green component of Skin color. Indeed, this parameter is representative of the good-looking effect, if the olive-green color decreases the good-looking effect is more important, - an improvement of the appearance of the skin located at the eye contour: the complexion seems more radiant when the skin around the eyes is rested. The evaluation of the appearance of the eye contour allows to appreciate the general fatigue of the skin.

In addition, at the doses used in the cosmetic composition according to the invention, the tests carried out showed that the extracts of Lens esculenta, Avena sativa and Tropaeolum majus showed no cytotoxicity.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "cosmetically acceptable carrier" means the carriers and excipients usually used in cosmetic and / or dermatological compositions and which are compatible with the skin and / or its superficial body growths, which have a color, an odor and a pleasant touch that does not generate unacceptable discomfort (tingling, tightness, redness for the users of these compositions, for example, such supports generally comprise water, a mixture of water and one or more organic solvents, or a solvent or a mixture of cosmetically or dermatologically acceptable organic solvents.

The lens is an annual herbaceous plant of the family Faboideae. All lens species may be used according to the present invention, but may be mentioned more particularly Lens culinaris Medikus (green lens) or its synonym Lens esculenta Moench. An aqueous extract of Lens culinaris with a carbohydrate content of at least 16% by weight relative to the total mass of solids is preferably used.

Preferably, the extract of Lens culinaris usable according to the present invention has a carbohydrate content varying from 16% and 50% by weight relative to the total mass of dry matter.

Even more preferably, at least 70% by weight of the carbohydrates present in the Lens culinaris extract are in the form of oligosaccharides, preferably in the form of threalose, maltose, maltotriose, stachyose and / or verbascose. Lens Culinaris extract can be obtained from all parts of the plant. According to a particularly suitable embodiment, the extract is obtained from the seeds of Lens culinaris. The extract of Lens culinaris that can be used according to the invention is soluble in an aqueous or aqueous-alcoholic medium up to a level of 20% in ethanol. It is temperature stable, especially at temperatures up to 80 ° C for at least 2 hours. The extract of Lens culinaris that can be used according to the invention is preferentially in liquid form. It can be defined by the following detailed characteristics:

Dry matter rate:

The rate of dry matter of the extract of Lens culinaris usable according to the invention, measured by passing in an oven at 105 ° C in the presence of sand, a sample of initial weight given until obtaining a constant weight varies from 12 to 110 g / l, preferably from 42 to 62 g / l. pH;

The pH, measured by the potentiometric method at ambient temperature leads to values ranging from 3.0 to 7.0, preferably from 4.5 to 5.5.

Oil content

The carbohydrate content of the extract of Lens culinaris that can be used according to the invention and measured by the DUBOIS method (DUBOIS M. et al., Analytical Chemistry, 1956, 28, No. 3, pp. 350-356) varies from 3 to 35 g / l, preferably 10 to 20 g / l.

Characterization of Carbohydrates HPLC analysis of the extract of Lens culinaris used according to the invention makes it possible to determine the distribution of the molecular weight of the carbohydrate fraction. This distribution is shown in Table 1 below: TABLE 1

The characterization by gas chromatography (GC) of the glucidic fraction of the extract of Lens culinaris usable according to the invention gives the following results presented in the following Table 2: TABLE 2

The extract of Lens culinaris that can be used according to the present invention is therefore characterized by a carbohydrate moiety composed mainly of oligosaccharides and especially glucose and galactose.

Active Fraction

The active fraction of the Lens culinaris extract that can be used according to the invention was determined by comparing the capacity of different molecular fractions of the extract (sugars, peptides and ashes) to increase the expression of the mRNAs (messenger ribonucleic acids). coding for involucrine, a protein involved in keratinocyte differentiation.

The results of this study show that it is the carbohydrates that confer on Lens culinaris extract its cosmetic activity on the normalization of keratinocyte differentiation.

Characterization by ionic liquid chromatography of the active fraction of the active principle is given in Table 3 below:

TABLE 3

Thus, according to the present invention, the active fraction of the Lens culinaris extract is an oligosaccharide fraction with a degree of polymerization ranging from 2 to 5, essentially composed of théhalose, maltose, maltotriose, stachyose and verbascose.

The extracts of Lens culinaris that can be used according to the present invention are commercially available. By way of example, mention may be made especially of the extracts sold under the trade name P-REFINYL® by the company SILAB (Brive, FR).

The Grande Capucine or Capucine (Tropaeolum majus) is an annual or perennial herbaceous plant of the Tropaeolaceae and Tropaeolum genus.

Preferably, the extract of Tropaeolum majus that can be used according to the invention comprises arabino-galactans and has a phenolic compound content of less than 0.2% by weight. The percentages are expressed by weight relative to the total mass of solids present in the extract. Preferentially also, arabino-galactans have a degree of polymerization ranging from 2 to 6.

The extract of Tropaeolum majus can be obtained by any method. It may be for example an extract obtained by aqueous extraction or by chemical or enzymatic hydrolysis. Preferably, the extract is obtained by aqueous extraction of the aerial part (flowers, leaves and buds). The extract of Tropaeolum majus has at least one of the following characteristics, preferably several of these characteristics, and even more preferably all of these characteristics.

Dry matter rate:

The dry matter content of an extract of Tropaeolum majus that can be used according to the invention (measured by passing in an oven at 105 ° C. in the presence of sand, from a sample of initial weight given until obtaining a constant weight) varies from 10 to 55 g / l, preferably from 22 to 35 g / l. fiH_i

The pH of the extract of Tropaeolum majus according to the present invention (measured by the potentiometric method at room temperature) can vary from 3.0 to 7.0, preferably from 4.0 to 5.0. Determination of total carbohydrate content

The determination of the total carbohydrate content can be carried out by the DUBOIS method (Dubois M. et al., Cited above).

The total carbohydrate content of an extract of Tropaeolum majus that can be used according to the invention preferably varies from 2 to 16 g / l, and even more preferably from 5 to 10 g / l. The total carbohydrate content may also be expressed as a percentage by mass relative to the total mass of dry matter. In this case, the total carbohydrate content preferably varies from 14 to 46% by weight.

Characterization of carbohydrates

The molecular weights of the carbohydrates present in the extract of Tropaeolum majus that can be used according to the invention are determined by high performance liquid chromatography (HPLC, according to the English expression "High Performance Liquid Chromatography"). Their composition in simple carbohydrates can be determined by ionic liquid chromatography.

Specific hydrolysis is carried out in order to determine the nature of the oligosaccharides present in the extract of Tropaeolum majus that can be used according to the invention.

The glucidic fraction of the extract of Tropaeolum majus that can be used according to the invention is composed of about 78 to 95% by weight of monosaccharides (with a molar mass of less than 180 Da, ie a degree of polymerization of 1) and of 5 to 22%. about oligosaccharides. The oligosaccharides preferentially have a molar mass ranging from 180 to 1100 Da, ie a degree of polymerization ranging from 2 to 6.

Monosaccharides are mainly fructose and glucose.

The oligosaccharides are in the form of α-glucans and arabinoglucans.

protein

The total nitrogen content is correlated with the protein content and can be determined by the method of KJELDHAL (Official Method of Analysis of the AOC, 1975, 12th Ed., Horwitz W, ED, New York, p 15-60) .

The protein content of the extract of Tropaeolum majus that can be used according to the invention preferably varies from 11 to 21% by weight.

Raw ash content;

The raw ash content can be determined by weighing the residues from incineration at 550 ° C in an electric muffle furnace (VULCANTM 3.550-NDI).

The weight of the residue is calculated by deducting the tare.

The mineral content is expressed as a percentage of the dry matter.

The crude ash content of the extract of Tropaeolum majus preferably varies from 30 to 50% by weight relative to the total mass of solids.

Phenolic compounds

The phenolic compounds form, in the presence of potassium ferricyanide, colored compounds detectable at 715 nm. The intensity of coloration is proportional to the amount of phenolic compounds.

The readings are made from a standard range of gallic acid ranging from 40 to 120 mg / l.

The content of phenolic compounds may be expressed in mg of gallic acid or in percentage by weight relative to the total mass of solids. The extract of Tropaeolum majus that can be used according to the invention contains less than 0.2% by weight of phenolic compounds relative to the total mass of solids.

Uronic acids

The product of galacturonic acid with sodium tetraborate gives, in the presence of meta-hydroxydiphenyl, a pink color for the assay spectrophotometer at 520 nm. The intensity of staining is proportional to the amount of uronic acids. The readings are made from a standard range of galacturonic acid ranging from 10 to 100 mg / l.

The rate of uronic acids of the extract of Tropaeolum majus usable according to the invention preferably varies from 3 to 5% by weight relative to the total mass of solids.

Extracts of Tropaeolum majus that can be used according to the invention are commercially available. By way of example, mention may be made in particular of the products sold under the trade name Oxygeton® by the company Silab (Brive, FR). The cultivated oat (Avena sativa L.), sometimes called Byzantine oats, is a biennial plant belonging to the genus Avena of the family Poaceae (grasses) .The extract of Avena sativa used according to the present invention can be obtained from simple oat fiber and / or oat bran, residue of oatmeal from grain pericarp which, in addition to fiber, contains protein, mineral salts and vitamins, and / or from oat seeds.

Preferably, the Avena sativa extract that can be used according to the invention is rich in polysaccharides of high molecular weight.

Even more preferably, the extract of Avena sativa that can be used according to the present invention has the following characteristics:

Dry matter rate

The rate of solids is measured by passing the oven at 105 ° C. in the presence of sand, from a sample of initial mass given until a constant mass is obtained.

The dry matter content of Avena sativa extract varies from 20 to 200 g / l, more particularly from 60 to 110 g / l.

PH measurement

The pH measured by the potentiometric method at room temperature leads to values ranging from 4 to 8, more particularly from 5 to 6. Determination of the carbohydrate content

We use the DUBOIS method (DUBOIS M. et al., Cited above).

The carbohydrate content of the Avena sativa extract that may be used according to the present invention is from 19 to 190 g / l, preferably from 57 to 105 g / l. The ratio of the carbohydrate content to the solids content of the Avena sativa extract that can be used according to the present invention is greater than 50%, preferably greater than 80%.

Average degree of polymerization of polysaccharides

The average degree of polymerization of the polysaccharides is determined by the ratio of the level of total sugars to the level of reducing sugars.

The dosage of reducing sugars is carried out as follows: the extract of Avena sativa to be assayed is placed in the presence of a solution of 4-hydroxybenzoic hydrazide in 0.5M of hydrogen chloride and a solution of soda at 0.5M, a standard range is made with glucose, and the absorbance at 410 nm is measured to determine the reducing sugar content of the active ingredient relative to the glucose range.

The average degree of polymerization of the polysaccharides of the Avena sativa extract that can be used according to the present invention is greater than 40, preferably greater than 60.

Size of polysaccharides

The distribution of the size of the polysaccharides of the Avena sativa extract that can be used according to the invention is carried out by studying the chromatograms.

The polysaccharides of the Avena sativa extract which can be used according to the invention are polysaccharides of high molecular weight. They have a size between 30 and 2000 kDa. Preferably, 50% by weight of the polysaccharide fraction has a size of between 70 and 700 kDa.

Extracts of Avena sativa are commercially available. By way of example, mention may in particular be made of the products sold under the trade name OSILIFT® by the company SILAB (Brive, FR).

In the present application, the term "extract" should be understood as "plant cell extract" belonging to the aforementioned groups and more specifically as "cell extract of at least one plant" of the aforementioned group. Said plant may be obtained by in vitro culture or in vivo. By in vitro culture is meant all of the techniques known to those skilled in the art which artificially allow the production of a plant or a part of a plant. By in vivo culture is meant all the cultivation techniques that make it possible to obtain a plant or a part of a plant. Thus the extract can be an organ extract (seed, root, aerial parts, stems, fruits, leaves, flowers), or even organ cells or an undifferentiated plant extract.

The processes for preparing the extracts are described below by way of non-limiting examples. Any method of extraction or purification known to those skilled in the art can be used in the invention.

The process for obtaining the extract of Lens culinaris that can be used according to the invention comprises at least the following steps: aqueous solubilization of seed powder of Lens culinaris, enzymatic hydrolysis, separation of the soluble and insoluble phases, inactivation of enzymes by heat treatment, - Filtration (s) and concentration of the soluble phase to recover an active fraction comprising sugars, mainly oligosaccharides having a degree of polymerization of between 2 and 5, - Filtration and sterilizing filtration. The extract obtained is in the form of a clear liquid aqueous solution of light yellow color.

The solvent used may advantageously be chosen from water, alcohols, ketones, esters, ethers, chlorinated solvents, polyols or mixtures of at least two aforementioned miscible solvents. The extraction may be a supercritical CO2 extraction. Water will preferably be used as a solvent.

These steps are usual in the field of asset extractions from plants, and the skilled person is able to adjust the reaction parameters on the basis of his general knowledge. The extract of Tropaeolum majus that can be used according to the invention can be obtained preferentially by a process comprising a solubilization in water of Tropaeolum majus.

A particularly suitable process comprises at least the succession of the following stages: Solubilization of powder of aerial parts of Tropaeolum majus, preferentially at a rate of at least 50 g / l, Separation of the soluble and insoluble phases, Filtration of the soluble phase , so as to recover an active ingredient containing arabinoglucans, - Removal of phenolic compounds by absorption, so as to obtain a phenol content of less than 0.2% relative to the dry matter, - Filtration (s).

Decolorization and deodorization steps of the soluble phase can be envisaged without modifying the active fraction of the extract of Tropaeolum majus.

The parameters of the different steps should preferably be adjusted in order to obtain extracts comprising arabino-galactans, in particular arabino-galactans having a degree of polymerization of between 2 and 6. The Avena sativa extract according to the invention can be obtained by a process comprising at least two steps: a first step of solubilization of bran and / or fibers and / or oat seeds in a basic solution, and a second step of enzymatic hydrolysis (s) ( s) successive or simultaneous polysaccharides contained in the sound and / or fibers and / or oat seeds so as to facilitate their solubilization without breaking their molecular structure.

According to one embodiment of the invention, to facilitate the solubilization of the polysaccharides, at least one solubilizing adjuvant is added to the basic solution, preferably a salt, a polyphosphate and / or an oxidant.

The alkaline concentration of the basic solubilization solution can be adjusted so that the physical properties of the polysaccharides are not altered to simple sugars upon hydrolysis.

Preferably, the method also comprises a deproteinization step.

Even more preferably, the process comprises the following succession of steps: solubilization of a sound and / or fibers and / or oat seeds at a rate of 30 to 300 g / l, more particularly from 50 to 150 g / l, in a basic solution, - Successive or simultaneous enzymatic hydrolysis (s) of the polysaccharides, - Inactivation by thermal or chemical treatment, to block the enzymatic reactions, - Separation of the soluble and insoluble phases by filtration , Decantation and / or centrifugation, - Successive concentrations, - Deproteinization by precipitation or selective adsorption, - Purification of the active fraction containing the high molecular weight polysaccharides by ultrafiltration, and - Sterilizing filtration.

Advantageously, the method allows the preservation of native polysaccharides derived from bran and / or fibers and / or oat seeds, while facilitating the industrial feasibility of the active ingredient.

The parts of the plant used are given for information only, the extracts used in the present invention can be made from all accessible parts of the plant.

Once the extracts thus obtained, said extracts are then mixed and can undergo one or more filtration and filtration sterilizing steps.

According to a particularly advantageous form of the invention, the extract of Lens esculenta, the extract of Avena sativa and the extract of Tropaeolum majus are used in the form of an aqueous solution.

Preferably, the amount of Lens culinaris extract in said solution generally varies from 0.1 to 10.0% by weight, preferably from 1.0 to 5.0% by weight, with respect to the total mass. of said solution. Even more preferably, the amount of Lens culinaris extract is of the order of 1.65% by weight relative to the total weight of said solution.

The amount of Avena sativa extract in said solution generally varies from 0.1 to 10.0% by weight, preferably from 1.0 to 5.0% by weight approximately, with respect to the total mass of said solution. Even more preferably, the amount of Avena sativa extract is of the order of 3.6% by weight relative to the total mass of said solution.

The amount of Tropaeolum majus extract in said solution generally varies from about 0.10 to about 10.0% by weight, preferably from about 1.0 to 5.0% by weight, based on the total weight of said solution. Even more preferably, the amount of Tropaeolum majus extract is of the order of 1.0% by weight relative to the total mass of said solution.

The solution may further comprise at least one preservative such as phenoxyethanol, dehydroacetic acid, sodium benzoate. Preferentially, sodium benzoate will be used.

Advantageously, the cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises from 0.001 to 10% by weight approximately of an aqueous solution of at least one extract of Lens esculenta, at least one extract of Avena sativa and from minus an extract of Tropaeolum majus, as described above, with respect to the total mass of said cosmetic composition, preferably from 0.1 to 10% by weight and even more preferably from 1.0 to 6% by weight relative to to the total mass of said cosmetic composition.

According to an advantageous embodiment, the cometic composition according to the present invention may contain, in addition to the extracts of Lens esculenta, Avena sativa and Tropaeolum majus, one or more additional active agents which advantageously enhance or complement their activity, and which are compatible with that is, not likely to react with one another or to mask or limit their effects. Such active ingredients may for example be chosen from any type of compound usually used in cosmetic compositions. By way of example, mention may be made of tensors based on wheat proteins (Tensine®, Liftiline®), but also plant extracts such as a sweet almond seed extract (Polylift®), a hydrolysed extract of cassava tuber (Instensyl ®), an algae extract Kappaphycus alvarezii and Caesalpinia spinosa fruit (Filmexel®). There may also be ingredients for improving the complexion based on plant extracts such as a Nymphaea alba flower extract, a hydrolysed sweet orange extract (Bio-tanning ®), a wheat germ extract (Clariskin II ®), a large nasturtium extract (Dermalight ®, Oxygeskin ®), an extract of Palmaria palmata (Whitonyl ®), a root extract of Lindera strychnifolia (Circagenol®), an extract of Candida Saitoana (Celldetox®).

The secondary active agents may also be selected from a complementary anti-aging agent, or from acetyl tetrapeptide-5 (CAS No. 820959-17-9), a plankton extract, a maca extract which has an effect on the prevention of disorders related to a deficiency of the cutaneous microcirculation and to the oxidative stress which can result from it, an extract of petals of poppy acting on cellular nutrition, a combination of extracts of anchuse, poppy and passionflower which, in association , have an effect in the prevention of signs of skin aging, a mimosa seed extract, an extract of marigold petals, cocoa cells, vitamin C, vitamin E and hexylresorcinol. The complementary anti-aging agent may be for example a lipid such as geranyl geranyl isopropanol (Juvinity®) which reduces the formation of intracellular peroxides and thus delays cellular aging.

The cosmetic composition in accordance with the present invention may be in the galenical forms conventionally used for topical application, that is to say, in the form of a gel, an emulsion (in particular cream or milk), two-phase emulsion oil-in-water or water-in-oil, body oil, mask, ointment, ointment, lotion, concentrated solution, said galenic forms additionally containing excipients and carriers usual and acceptable on the cosmetological plan. The cosmetic composition according to the invention is preferably used in the form of cream, serum, lotion or gel.

These forms of topical application are prepared by the usual techniques, and for example, in the case of a cream, by dispersion of a fatty phase in an aqueous phase to obtain an oil-in-water emulsion, or conversely to prepare a water-in-oil emulsion in the case of creams, it is possible to use lamellar structure emulsions obtained with hydrogenated lecithins or sucrose esters, containing little or no ethoxylated products.

The cosmetic composition according to the invention may further contain one or more cosmetically acceptable excipients. These excipients suitable for the formulation are well known to those skilled in the art and include in particular penetration agents such as phytantriol, octyl dodecanol and escin; thickeners such as natural gums and synthetic polymers; surfactants; emollients such as cetearyl octanoate, isopropyl myristate, cetearyl isononanoate, dimethicone, cyclomethicone, polyglyceryl 3-diisostearate, hydrogenated polyisobutene, cetyl alcohol, cetyl palmitate, phosphate cetyl; emulsifiers such as polyglycerol derivatives; preservatives such as phenoxyethanol and dehydroacetic acid; dyes; the perfumes ; etc ...

Other ingredients that may be used in the cosmetic composition of the invention include hydrating agents such as glycerine, butylene glycol, sodium salt of pyrrolidone carboxylic acid (PCA sodium), as well as combinations of glucosic derivatives. moisturizing and restructuring effect such as Aquaxyl® (xylitylglucoside and anhydroxylytol and xylitol), and also antioxidant vitamins.

It is also possible to add to the cosmetic composition carbohydrates chosen mainly from glucose, glycogen and trehalose, or a palmitoyl pentapeptide-3 such as Matrixyl® or derivatives such as palmitoyl GHK (having the glycyl-Histidyl chain). Lysine) and palmitoyl GQPR (Glycyl-Glutamyl-Prolyl-Arginine) or palmitoyl VGVAPG (Valyl-

Glycyl-Valyl-Alanyl-Prolyl-Glycine) combined with a ceramide-2, as well as in general any combination with a ceramide.

It is also possible to add ultraviolet protection agents to the cosmetic composition, for example hydrophilic or lipophilic UV-A and UV-B sunscreens, or anti-ultraviolet screen pigments.

The sunscreens may be chosen for example from benzophenone or a benzophenone derivative such as 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-benzophenone (Eusolex® 4360), or a cinnamic acid ester and more particularly octyl methoxycinnamate ( Eusolex® 2292), 2-ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate (Parsol MCX®), or a cyano-β, β-diphenylacrylate such as octocrylene (Eusolex® OCR), 4-methylbenzylidene camphor (Eusolex 6300® ), and dibenzoylmethane derivatives such as 4-isopropyl dibenzoylmethane (Eusolex 8020), t-butyl-methoxy dibenzoylmethane (Parsol 1789®), and 4-methoxy-dibenzoylmethane.

The pigments may be chosen for example from titanium dioxide, zinc oxide and zirconium oxide. The combination of at least one extract of Lens esculenta, at least one extract of Avena sativa and at least one extract of Tropaeolum majus usable in the cosmetic composition according to the present invention has a smoothing effect in the short term cutaneous microrelief and a short-term effect on the skin's grain by reducing the pore diameter. The combination of at least one extract of Lens esculenta, at least one extract of Avena sativa and at least one extract of Tropaeolum majus usable in the cosmetic composition according to the present invention also has excellent long-term activity. term on the improvement of the cutaneous microrelief by the reduction of the wrinkles and the fine lines, a long-term smoothing effect of the cutaneous microrelief and an improvement of the radiance of the complexion.

These results confirm that the combination of at least one extract of Lens esculenta, at least one extract of Avena sativa and at least one extract of Tropaeolum majus usable in the cosmetic composition according to the present invention improves the appearance of the skin, in particular the cutaneous microrelief (visible and / or tactile irregularities as well as the wrinkles and fine lines), the complexion of the skin, external sign of good health and youthful appearance and resulting in an improvement of the overall appearance of the face, with an immediate effect as well as a long-term effect.

The topically applied cosmetic composition of the invention has a positive effect in the short and long term on the cutaneous microrelief and the radiance of the complexion.

Thus, the invention also has for another object, a non-therapeutic cosmetic method for the care of the skin, in particular for short-term and long-term improvement of the cutaneous microrelief and the radiance of the complexion, characterized in that consists in applying to the areas of the skin concerned at least one cosmetic composition as defined above, that is to say a cosmetic composition with topical application containing at least one extract of Lens esculenta, at least one extract of Avena sativa and at least one extract of Tropaeolum majus.

Finally, the subject of the invention is the non-therapeutic use of a cosmetic composition with topical application as defined above, that is to say comprising at least one extract of Lens esculenta, at least one extract of Avena sativa. and at least one extract of Tropaeolum majus, to improve the short-term and long-term skin microrelief and radiance of the complexion and reduce wrinkles and fine lines. The non-therapeutic use of the cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises all body and skin care products including sun, protective and tanning products, anti-aging, anti-seborrhoeic products, tonics, products providing the improvement. the appearance of the skin, including acne treatment and skin rash.

The following examples illustrate the invention without limiting its scope.

EXAMPLES EXAMPLE 1 Preparation of an aqueous solution comprising an extract of Avena sativa, an extract of Lens esculenta and an extract of Tropaeolum majus

The three extracts were prepared as indicated above in the description.

After extraction, extracts of Avena sativa, Lens esculenta and Tropaeolum majus were filtered through a sterilizing membrane.

The extracts were then dissolved in water at a rate of 3.60% by weight of Avena sativa extract, 1.65% by weight of Lens esculenta extract and 1.00% by weight. extract mass of Tropaeolum majus, said percentages being expressed relative to the total mass of the solution. A preservative, sodium benzoate, has been added. EXAMPLE 2 In Vivo Evaluation of the Immediate Effect of an Aqueous Solution Comprising an Extract of Avena Sativa, an Extract of Lens esculenta and an Extract of Tropaeolum Majus on the Cutaneous Microrelief versus Placebo The Effect of the Aqueous Solution As prepared above in Example 1, and comprising 3.60% by weight of Avena sativa extract, 1.65% by weight of Lens esculenta extract and 1.00% by weight of Tropaeolum extract. majus versus placebo was studied as follows: - Study of the smoothing effect on the forearms by projection of fringes, - Study of the skin texture at the cheeks by projection of fringes, The evaluation was carried out a hour before and one hour after application of the formula according to the invention and as prepared according to Example 6 containing the combination of extracts or a placebo formula (containing all the ingredients of that of Example 6 to exception of the combination of excerpts). 2.1. Study of the smoothing effect on the forearms by projection of fringes:

This study was carried out on 25 healthy volunteers, female, aged between 36 and 52 years (average age 47 +/- 4 years). This study was comparative and performed in double blind. Each subject was his own witness.

There was no indication of the content of the ingredients in each of the formulas.

Silicone impressions were made at the inner side of the forearms, before and after a single application of one or other of the formulas.

Volume acquisitions of these fingerprints were then made using a fringe projection device specifically dedicated to the 3D measurement of cutaneous relief. This system is marketed under the trade name DermaTOP® 1303 by the company Eotech and includes a measurement sensor combining a projector and a high resolution CCD camera connected to an acquisition software Optocat ® (Eotech). The effect of each of the formulas was measured on a region of interest of 10x10 mm, cut automatically on the original acquisition.

The parameters adopted for this study are 3D roughness parameters: - Sq: RMS of surface roughness - Sa: arithmetic average of surface roughness

A decrease in these different parameters is characteristic of a smoothing of the studied surface. 80 μl of each of the formulations to be tested were taken using a viscous pipette and then applied by light massage (with a thimble) to the forearm study area according to predefined randomization.

A summary of the results corresponding to the effect of the formula according to the invention containing the combination of the 3 extracts, compared to the placebo formula, on the cutaneous microrelief studied by projection of fringes at the inner face of the forearms. is shown in Table 4 below: TABLE 4

*: Significant differences compared to placebo formula according to Wilcoxon's Signed Ranks test (p <0.05)

Under the conditions of this study, one hour after a single application and in comparison with the placebo formula, the formula according to the invention containing the combination of the 3 extracts significantly improves the cutaneous microrelief by significantly reducing the Sa parameter of 6.4. % (p = 0.0146) and Sq parameter 5.6% (p = 0.0239) The study of the distribution of the results showed a decrease of the Sa parameter in 60% of the volunteers and the Sq parameters in 56%

of them after one hour and a single application of the formula according to the invention containing the 3 extracts. 2.2. Study of skin texture by projection of fringes

This study was conducted on two different groups of volunteers distributed as follows:

Placebo group: 24 healthy volunteers, female between 34 and 52 years old (mean age 44 +/- 6 years) and selected on the basis of dullness and a moderate stage of wrinkling at the level of the legs. 'goose.

Group formula according to the invention containing the combination of 3 extracts: 24 healthy volunteers, female, age between 34 and 52 years (average age 45 +/- 6 years) and selected on dull complexion criteria and a moderate wrinkle stage in the crow's feet.

This study was comparative and performed in double blind. The unique application of the studied formulas was carried out in whole face by the volunteer. 500 μl of formula were applied. There was no indication of the content of the ingredients in each of the formulas.

The acquisitions were performed on the cheeks using the DermaTOP ® 1303. A system of repositioning the head of the volunteer along the 3 axes of movement allows to find the same area of measurement at different times of the study. The effect of each formula tested was measured on a region of interest of 10x10 mm, cut automatically on the original acquisition. An object detection allows to segment the pores individually and to study different characteristics.

The parameter adopted for this study is the average size of the detected objects, it represents the average surface area of the pores (in mm2) on the area of interest. The results are shown in the following Table 5: TABLE 5

* significant difference compared to the Placebo formula according to Student's t-test (p <0.05) ** significant difference compared to TO according to Student's t-test (p <0.05)

Under the conditions of this study, one hour after a single application and in comparison with the placebo formula, the formula according to the invention containing the combination of the 3 extracts significantly decreases the pore surface area by 5.1% (p = 0). , 0400).

This effect was observed in 79% of the volunteers having tested the formula according to the invention containing the combination of the 3 extracts. EXAMPLE 3 In Vivo Evaluation of the Long-Term Effect of a Solution Comprising an Avena Sativa Extract, a Lens esculenta Extract and a Tropaeolum Majus Extract According to the Invention versus Placebo The objective of this study was in vivo evaluate the long-term effect of the formula according to the invention containing the combination of the 3 extracts (hereinafter formula according to the invention, identical to that used above in Example 2), by compared to the same placebo formula as used above in Example 2 (placebo formula). The effect of this formula was evaluated in the following way: - Study of the anti-wrinkle effect at the level of crow's feet by projection of fringes, - Study of the brightness of the complexion by experts.

The different measurements were performed before and after 28 days of twice-daily application of the formula according to the invention versus placebo.

This study was conducted on two different groups of volunteers distributed as follows:

Placebo Formula Group:

22 healthy, female volunteers, between 35 and 50 years old (average age 43 +/- 6 years old) and selected on the basis of dull complexion criteria and a moderate wrinkles stage in crow's feet.

Group formula according to the invention: 23 healthy volunteers, female, age between 35 and 50 years (average age 43 +/- 6 years) and selected on criteria of dull complexion and a moderate stage of wrinkles at crow's feet level.

This study was comparative and performed in double blind. There was no indication of the content of the ingredients in each of the formulas. 3.1, Study of the anti-wrinkle effect by projection of fringes

The acquisitions were made at the crow's feet with the aid of the DermaTOP® 1303 device.

A system of repositioning the head of the volunteer according to the 3 axes of displacement made it possible to find the same area of measurement at the different times of the study. The effect of the product was measured on a region of interest cut off automatically on the original acquisition.

The microrelief of the skin was studied by the two roughness parameters in 3D, Sq and Sa.

The volume of the wrinkle was studied by a volume parameter: - Negative volume: volume less than the surface of the skin.

A decrease in these different parameters is characteristic of a smoothing of the relief of the studied surface and a reduction of wrinkles.

A summary of the results corresponding to the effect of the formula according to the invention containing the combination of the 3 extracts compared to the placebo formula on the cutaneous microrelief studied by projection of fringes at the level of the crow's feet is presented in the Table 7 below. TABLE 7

* Significant differences from Wilcoxon-Mann-Whitney W-placebo formula (p <0.05) ** Significant difference from placebo by Student's t-test (p <0.05)

Under the conditions of this study, after 28 days of twice-daily applications, and in comparison with the placebo formula, the formula according to the invention containing the combination of an extract of Avaena sativa, an extract of Lens esculenta and an extract of Tropaeolum majus significantly smooths the cutaneous relief on the crow's feet. Indeed, the formula containing the combination of these three extracts decreases significantly: - The Sa parameter of 4.6% (p = 0.0441). This effect was observed in 61% of the volunteers. - The Sq parameter of 4.8% (p = 0.0432). This effect was observed in 61% of the volunteers. - wrinkles by allowing a decrease in the negative volume parameter (-14.6%, p = 0.0499). The study of the distribution of the results shows a decrease of the negative volume in 65% of the volunteers. 3.2. Visual assessment of the complexion's radiance by expert The evaluation is done from scales of scores (from 1 to 10) and the following parameters were retained: - The skin texture, indeed the irregularity of the surface cutaneous is correlated with the dullness of the skin. - The radiance of the skin, characteristic of a radiant complexion. The higher the intensity of the light hooks on the prominent areas of the face, the brighter the skin is.

- The light pink component of the skin color helps to characterize a radiant complexion. The more the complexion is pink, the more it is perceived as fresh. - The general appreciation of the good-looking effect reflects the homogeneity of color and its spatial distribution over the entire face. - The olive green component of the skin color is representative of the good-looking effect, if the olive green component decreases the good-looking effect is more important. - The state of fatigue of the eyes, indeed the complexion appears more radiant when the skin is rested. The evaluation of the appearance of the eyes makes it possible to appreciate the general fatigue of the skin. The evaluation of these different parameters was made on the cheekbones, the forehead, the chin and the eye contour.

A summary of the results corresponding to the effect of the formula according to the invention containing the combination of the 3 extracts compared to the placebo formula on the radiance of the complexion evaluated by two expert panels is presented in Table 8 below: TABLE 8

* Significant differences from Wilcoxon-Mann-Whitney W placebo formula (p <0.05) **; Significant differences compared to placebo formula according to Student's t-test (p <0.05)

Under the conditions of this study, after 28 days of twice-daily applications and in comparison with the placebo formula, the formula according to the invention containing the combination of an extract of Avena sativa, an extract of Lens esculenta and an extract of Tropaeolum majus: - Significantly improves the cutaneous microrelief by refining the grain of the skin (+ 12.7%, p = 0.0034). This effect was observed in 92% of the volunteers. - Significantly improves the radiation of the skin by 13.2% (p = 0.0031, validated effect in 87% of volunteers). - Significantly increases the light pink component of the skin color, characteristic of a fresh complexion of 22.5% (p = 0.0153) and gives a good-looking effect (+ 12.5%, p = 0.0005 ). This effect was observed in 87 and 91% of volunteers, respectively.

In addition, the formula according to the invention containing the combination of the 3 extracts significantly decreases the olive-green component of the color of the

skin of 11.7% (p = 0.0429) and eye fatigue state of 9.3% (p = 0.0401). This effect was validated respectively in 57% and 65% of the volunteers between OJ and D28. EXAMPLE 6: Smoothing and refining emulsion

By the usual techniques, an emulsion has been prepared for the care of normal to combination skin having the mass composition indicated below (quantities indicated in% by weight). Acrylates / C10-30 alkyl acrylate Crosspolymer sold under the trade name CARBOPOL ULTREZ® 21 by the company GATTEFOSSE 0.60 - Aqueous solution prepared in Example 1 6.00 - Vegetable oils 5.50 - Glycerin 3.00 - Agents humectants (hydroxyethyl urea, ammonium lactate) 3.00 - citric acid, monohydrate 0.38 - mixture of arachidyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol and arachidyl glucoside sold under the name Montanov ® 202 by the company SEPPIC 2.25 - Dimethicone &amp; dimethicone crosspolymer sold under the trade name Dow Corning 9041 by the company Dow Corning 1.50 - polyacrylate crosspolymer-6 sold under the name SEPIMAX ZEN ® by the company SEPPIC 0.40 - Caprylic / capric triglyceride 2.00 - Dicaprylyl Ether 1, 00 - Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate 0.25 - Xanthan Gum 0.20 - Nymphaea Alba Flower Extract 0.20 - Preservatives 1.30 - Antioxidant 0.70 - Pigments 1.50 - Sodium Hydroxide 0.03 - Fragrance 1 , 30 - Demineralized water qs 100.00%

This emulsion can be used once or twice a day by application to the areas of the skin to be treated. It reduces the surface of the pores, has a tightening effect and improves the radiance of the complexion. EXAMPLE 7 Clarifying Clarity Lotion

By the usual techniques, a lotion has been prepared for the care of normal to combination skin having the mass composition indicated below (quantities indicated in% by weight). - Aqueous solution prepared in Example 1 1.00 - Preservatives 3.60 - 1.3-butylene glycol 1.20 - Solubilizing agents 5.00 - Demineralized water qs 100%

This clarifying lotion can be used once or twice a day by application to the areas of the skin to be treated.

Claims (13)

Cosmetic composition for topical application comprising at least one cosmetically acceptable carrier, characterized in that it comprises, as active ingredient, at least one extract of Lens esculenta, at least one extract at Avena sativa and at least one extract of Tropaeolum majus. 2. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that it comprises from 0.001 to 10% by weight of an aqueous solution of at least one extract of Lens esculenta, of at least one extract of'Avena sativa 'and of at least one extract of Tropaeolum majus. 3. Composition according to claim 2, characterized in that the amount of Lens culinaris extract in said solution varies from 0.1 to 10.0% by weight relative to the total mass of said solution. 4. Composition according to claim 2 or 3, characterized in that the amount of Lens culinaris extract in said solution is 1.65% by weight relative to the total mass of said solution. 5. Composition according to any one of claims 2 to 4, characterized in that the amount of Avena sativa extract in said solution varies from 0.1 to 10.0% by weight relative to the total mass. of said solution. 6. Composition according to any one of claims 2 to 5, characterized in that the amount of extract to Ava sativa within said solution is 3.6% by weight relative to the total mass of said solution. 7. Composition according to any one of claims 2 to 6, characterized in that the amount of Tropaeolum majus extract in said solution varies from 0.10 to 10.0% by weight relative to the total mass of said solution. 8. Composition according to any one of claims 2 to 7, characterized in that the amount of Tropaeolum majus extract in said solution is 1.0% by weight relative to the total mass of said solution. 9. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it further contains one or more secondary active agents selected from wheat protein tensors, a sweet almond seed extract, a hydrolysed extract of cassava tuber, Kappaphycus alvarezii algae extract and Caesalpinia spinosa fruit, Nymphaea alba flower extract, a sweet orange hydrolysis extract, wheat germ extract, a large nasturtium extract, an extract of Palmaria palmata, Lindera strychnifolia root extract, Candida Saitoana extract, Complementary anti-aging agent, Acetyl tetrapeptide-5, Plankton extract, Maca extract, Poppy petal extract, Combination anchus extract, poppy and passionflower extract, mimosa seed extract, marigold petal extract, cocoa cells, vitamin C, vitamin E and hexylresorcinol. 10. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is in the form of gel, two-phase emulsion oil-in-water or water-in-oil, body oil, mask, ointment, ointment, lotion or concentrated solution. 11. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it further comprises protection agents against ultraviolet rays or pigments forming ultraviolet screen. 12. Non-therapeutic cosmetic process for the care of the skin, in particular to improve the short-term and long-term skin microrelief and radiance of the complexion, characterized in that it consists in applying to the areas of the skin concerned at at least one cosmetic composition as defined in any one of claims 1 to 11. 13. Non-therapeutic use of a cosmetic composition as defined in any one of claims 1 to 11, to improve the short-term and long-term skin microrelief and radiance of the complexion and reduce wrinkles and fine lines. The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition with topical application comprising, as active ingredient, at least one extract of Avena sativa, at least one extract of Lens esculenta and at least one extract of Tropaeolum majus. It also relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic process for skin care using such a composition, as well as to the non-therapeutic use of such a cosmetic composition for skin care, and in particular to improve the skin care. radiance of the complexion and the overall appearance of the face, by attenuating the unsightly appearance of the enlarged pores, responsible for an irregularity of the cutaneous relief, and presenting an anti-wrinkle effect and / or immediate and long-term tightening of the skin.