FR3010307A1 - COSMETIC OR DERMATOLOGICAL USE OF AVICULARIN - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention relates to the topical cosmetic use of avicularin, for increasing the expression of perlecane and / or dystroglycan, in particular in the extracellular matrix and / or in the basal epithelial membrane, in particular the dermal-epidermal junction. It also relates to a cosmetic care method comprising the application to at least one area of the healthy skin and / or healthy mucosa and / or the healthy scalp of avicularine or a cosmetic composition comprising avicularine to increase the expression of perlecane and / or dystroglycan, particularly in the extracellular matrix and / or in the basal epithelial membrane, especially the dermal-epidermal junction. It also relates to avicularine or a dermatological composition containing avicularine and a dermatologically acceptable excipient for topical use in the treatment and / or prevention of rosacea, telangiectases and / or pathologies of the oral and / or ocular mucosa .

Description

The invention relates to the topical cosmetic or dermatological use of avicularin, for increasing the expression of perlecane and / or dystroglycan, in particular in the extracellular matrix and / or in the basal epithelial membrane, especially the dermal junction. epidermal.

Among the heparan sulfate proteoglycans (HSPGs) of the basal laminae, perlecane plays a major role in the morphogenesis of the epithelium, in particular the epidermis but also in the survival, proliferation and differentiation of keratinocytes and endothelial cells, in particular skin. It regulates these processes by controlling the bioavailability of growth factors. Dystroglycan is a potential glycoprotein receptor for perlecane. Perlecane and dystroglycan are expressed on basement membranes, ubiquitous structures located at different tissues such as epithelia and endotheliums but also at different cell types such as keratinocytes, fibroblasts, and endothelial cells. They interact together and help to ensure the strength and stability of the structure of the skin, mucous membranes and scalp, especially the epithelium, especially the epidermis and the dermis. During aging, particularly chronobiological, the expression of perlecane and dystroglycan is drastically reduced. In particular, the expression of perlecane strongly decreases at the level of the dermo-epidermal junction and dermal capillaries with age. This decrease is not due to a degradation of the protein but to a decrease in its expression, and particularly its transcriptional regulation, by keratinocytes and endothelial cells. Furthermore, the inventors have found that there is a correlation between the lack of synthesis of perlecane and the thickness of the skin and / or the mucous membranes and / or the scalp, in particular the epithelium, preferentially the epidermis. . The expression of perlecane and dystroglycan is therefore of great importance in the homeostasis of the skin and / or mucous membranes and / or scalp and in the maintenance of their firmness and density, which are degraded during especially chronobiological aging. Surprisingly, the inventors have discovered that quercetin-3-arabinofuranoside, also called avicularin (C20H18011) (Cas No. 572-305), of the following general formula: HP, stimulates the expression of HSPGs and glycoproteins of basal laminae, and more particularly perlecane and dystroglycan, preferentially the expression of perlecane, in particular in the extracellular matrix and / or in the basal epithelial membrane, in particular the dermal-epidermal junction, more particularly in the keratinocytes and / or the endothelial cells of the skin and / or mucous membranes and / or scalp, and preferentially cutaneous. Targeting both keratinocytes and endothelial cells, especially cutaneous cells, has a double effect: 1) on the improvement of the microvascular pathway to nourish the skin, the mucous membranes and / or the scalp and 2) on improving the complexion in terms of brightness. Avicularin or quercetin-3-arabinofuranoside is a flavonoid present in various organs of many plants. It is particularly known for its effect against urinary infections but also in the treatment of hypercholesterolemia, hypertriglyceridimie and artherosclerosis. The molecule has also been described as having antihistaminic and anti-inflammatory properties. On the other hand, avicularin is known as an insect repellent. However, this molecule has never been described as capable of increasing the expression of perlecane and / or dystroglycan. The present invention thus relates to the topical cosmetic or dermatological use of avicularin, for increasing the expression of perlecane and / or dystroglycan, preferentially the expression of perlecane and even more preferably protein expression, particularly in the extracellular matrix and / or in the basal epithelial membrane, especially the dermal-epidermal junction. Preferably, the use according to the invention is cosmetic and applied topically to at least one area of healthy skin and / or healthy mucosa and / or healthy scalp, in particular of a human being. human. Preferably, the use of avicularin increases the expression of perlecane and / or dystroglycan, still more preferably the expression of perlecane, in keratinocytes and / or endothelial cells of the skin and / or mucous membranes and / or the scalp, preferentially the endothelial cells of the skin.

According to a first embodiment of the invention, avicularine is used in the form of an aqueous solution Avicularine is commercially available from Sigma-Aldrich.

In an alternative embodiment of the invention, avicularin is present in a plant extract, advantageously an extract of Juglans regia. This extract may be a crude extract or a purified extract, in particular containing an avicularine content of between 0.01 ppm and 10 ppm, advantageously between 0.1 ppm and 10 ppm, more advantageously between 1 ppm and 10 ppm. The purification can be carried out by methods well known to those skilled in the art such as thin layer chromatography, purification by gel filtration on resin (such as Sephadex®) or preparative high performance liquid chromatography (HPLC). . In one embodiment according to the invention, the plant extract containing avicularin according to the invention is obtained by aqueous extraction. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "aqueous extract" means any extract obtained by extraction with an aqueous solution containing more than 60% by weight, advantageously at least 70% by weight, in particular at least 80% by weight, more particularly at least 90% by weight, particularly at least 95% by weight, of water relative to the total weight of the aqueous solution, more advantageously not containing butylene glycol, in particular containing no alcohol, more especially containing only water. According to an advantageous embodiment, the extract according to the invention is obtained by cold maceration, preferably at 4 ° C., or at room temperature, that is to say between 18 and 25 ° C., preferably 20 ° C. , possibly after a drying step of the plant. According to a preferred embodiment, the extract according to the invention is obtained by maceration at room temperature, preferably 20 ° C. According to a preferred embodiment, the extract according to the invention is obtained by maceration for a period of between 30 minutes and 24 hours, preferably between 1 hour and 5 hours, more preferably 2 hours. The extract obtained is then preferably centrifuged and / or filtered and / or distilled to recover the active soluble fraction. It is preferably filtered at a cut-off point of 0.45 μm, more preferably 0.22 μm. Additional steps of bleaching and / or deodorization can be performed on the extract at any stage of the extraction and according to the techniques known to those skilled in the art. The extract according to the invention can also be subsequently concentrated by evaporation of the solvent, for example by lyophilization or by atomization. It can then be purified or enriched with avicularin. The extract according to the invention may be any extract of the plant chosen from the whole plant, wood, roots, rhizome, bark, flowers, petals, sepals, seeds, fruits, film fruits, aerial parts, in particular stem, leaves and their mixtures. Advantageously, the extract is an extract of Juglans regia, preferably an extract of leaves, preferentially still an extract of young leaves. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "young leaves" means developing leaves having not reached their adult size, containing a negligible level of phenolic compounds in glycosilated form, in particular flavonoids. Particularly advantageously, the amount of plant during the extraction is 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the plant mixture / extraction solvent, preferably aqueous solution.

In particular the plant is crushed before extraction. Advantageously, the duration of the extraction is 2 hours and carried out at room temperature, preferably 20 ° C. The extract obtained is preferably soluble in a particularly polar solvent, such as water, an alcohol, a polyol, a glycol, or a mixture thereof, preferably a glycolic mixture, more preferably containing a glycol chosen from caprylyl glycol, hexylene glycol and mixtures thereof. Advantageously, the extract according to the invention is soluble in an aqueous solution containing hexylene glycol, in particular containing between 0.1 and 10% by weight of hexylene glycol relative to the total weight of the aqueous solution, more particularly between 1 and 5% by weight of hexylene glycol relative to the total weight of the aqueous solution. Advantageously, the extract is soluble in an aqueous solution containing caprylyl glycol, in particular containing between 0.01 and 5% by weight of caprylyl glycol relative to the total weight of the aqueous solution, more particularly between 0.1 and 1%. by weight of caprylyl glycol relative to the total weight of the aqueous solution. Advantageously, the aqueous solution does not contain butylene glycol.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "healthy skin", "healthy mucosa" or "healthy scalp" means an area of skin, mucosa or scalp to which the avicularin according to the invention is applied and referred to as "non-pathological By a dermatologist, that is to say not having any infection, disease or skin condition such as candidiasis, impetigo, psoriasis, eczema, acne or dermatitis, or sores or wounds.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "topical route" means the application of avicularine (in particular in the form of an aqueous solution or in the form of a plant extract according to the invention) according to the invention and / or of the cosmetic composition containing the avicularine on the surface of the relevant area of the skin and / or the mucous membranes and / or the scalp, in particular of a human being, in particular by direct application or by vaporization. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "increase in the expression of perlecane and / or dystroglycan" means an increase in the gene and / or protein expression of perlecane and / or dystroglycan, preferentially the expression of perlecane and even more preferably the protein expression of perlecane. This increase can be measured on a model, comprising at least one cell type exhibiting an expression of perlecane and / or dystroglycan, advantageously keratinocytes and / or endothelial cells, preferentially cutaneous, in contact with avicularin and results in an increase in the respective gene and / or protein expression of perlecane and / or dystroglycan equal to or greater than 10%, advantageously equal to or greater than 20%, relative to the level of gene and / or protein expression in a control or control model , that is to say without contacting avicularine according to the invention. The increase of this expression is preferentially protein. Such models are described in the examples.

According to the invention, the term "mucous membranes" refers in particular to the oral mucosa, in particular the oral or gingival membrane, nasal, ocular, vaginal, anal and / or urogenital membrane, in particular the labial membrane.

Advantageously, the use according to the present invention is to prevent and / or fight against the aging of the skin and / or the mucous membranes and / or the scalp including chronobiological and / or photobiological, to prevent and / or fight against the decrease of the skin. homeostasis of the skin and / or mucous membranes and / or scalp and / or to improve it, particularly in the epidermis, for strengthening the basement epithelial membrane of the skin and / or mucous membranes and / or leather hair, preferably the dermo-epidermal junction, to improve the proliferation and / or differentiation of keratinocytes, especially at the epidermal level, in particular related to the aging of the skin and / or mucous membranes and / or scalp, to prevent and / or or to combat a decrease in the vascularization of the skin and / or the mucous membranes and / or the scalp and / or to improve it, in particular to improve the structure of the capillaries of the skin and / or the mucous membranes. t / or scalp including cutaneous, to improve the morphogenesis of the epithelium, skin and / or mucous membranes and / or scalp preferentially the epidermis, to restore the epithelial architecture of the skin and / or mucous membranes and / or the scalp, preferentially epidermal, in particular skin and / or mucous membranes and / or scalp having undergone aging, especially chronobiological, to improve the complexion of the skin and / or mucous membranes, in particular to homogenize it , to improve the firmness and / or the density of the skin and / or the mucous membranes and / or the scalp, and / or to combat the decrease in the thickness of the epithelium of the skin and / or the mucous membranes and and / or the scalp, preferentially the epidermis, and / or to increase the thickness of the epithelium of the skin and / or the mucous membranes and / or the scalp, preferentially the epidermis, and / or the prevention or treatment of chapped skin

In a particular embodiment, the purpose of the use according to the present invention is to improve the complexion of the skin, advantageously by eliminating redness and / or by homogenizing the complexion and / or by giving it a luminous, radiant appearance, in good health and / or nourished, a good-looking effect and / or a pinkish shine. Indeed, the radiance of the complexion generally reflects a state of good health of the skin. Many intrinsic or extrinsic factors can cause a fuzzy, inhomogeneous complexion. Factors affecting the radiance of the complexion of the skin include stress, fatigue, hormonal changes, dehydration of the epithelium, preferentially the epidermis, pollutants and chronobiological and photobiological aging. These factors tend to blur the complexion, make it inhomogeneous, dull, waxy, even sickly. The expression of perlecane and dystroglycan has an impact on the microvascular pathway which allows to better nourish the skin and better detoxify it thus giving it a healthy and healthy appearance. In addition, the cutaneous color is influenced by the microcirculation: by reaching the microvessels, the light comes into contact with the red cells that absorb specifically in the green. The red is reflected on the surface, giving the skin a rosy complexion and therefore a pinkish shine. The radiance of the complexion also depends on the reflective power of the skin. This reflective power is influenced by the texture of the skin. A skin with a softer, more supple texture will therefore have a better respect. The restoration of the epidermal architecture and the improvement of the morphogenesis of the epithelium, preferentially the epidermis obtained by stimulating the expression of perlecane and / or dystroglycan will therefore also improve the skin's complexion. . The improvement in the radiance of the complexion called "radiance" or "glow" in English can in particular be measured by an objective instrumental method.

This in vivo measurement method consists of taking high-resolution cross-polarized photographs of the volunteers' faces taken at 45 ° before and after application of the tested product. On the basis of these digital photographs, an image analysis makes it possible to extract and to quantify specific parameters (for example: L *, a *, b *, C, h °) related to the color, the brightness, the homogeneity, and the texture of the skin. Similarly, the so-called gloss gloss in English can in particular be measured according to this method on the basis of high resolution photographs in parallel polarized and polarized configuration of the face of the volunteers taken at 45 ° before and after application of the tested product. On the basis of these digital photographs, an image analysis makes it possible to extract and quantify specific parameters related to brightness such as specular gloss and contrast brightness.

In another particular embodiment, the use according to the present invention aims to prevent and / or fight against aging of the skin and / or mucous membranes and / or the scalp including chronobiological or photobiological by reducing or eliminating wrinkles and / or fine lines, especially for mature skin and / or skin with the first signs of aging. According to the present invention, the term "mature skin", the skin of women or men having at least 50 years, advantageously the skins of menopausal women.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "skin showing the first signs of aging", the skin of women or men between 28 and 40 years, advantageously the skin with the first expression lines.

In yet another particular embodiment, the use according to the present invention aims to prevent and / or fight against the decrease in the homeostasis of the skin and / or mucous membranes and / or scalp and / or the skin. to improve, especially in the epidermis.

Homeostasis, particularly cutaneous, and in particular epidermal, results from a finely tuned balance between the proliferation and differentiation processes of skin cells and in particular keratinocytes. These proliferation and differentiation processes participate in the renewal and / or regeneration of the skin and lead to the maintenance of a constant thickness of the skin, and in particular of a constant thickness of the epithelium, preferentially the epidermis. This homeostasis also contributes to maintaining the mechanical properties of the skin, mucous membranes and scalp. But this cutaneous homeostasis can be altered by certain physiological factors (age, menopause, hormones, stress ...) and extrinsic factors (pollutants, ...). The regenerative potential of the epithelium, in particular the epidermis becomes less important: the cells of the basal layer divide less actively, leading notably to a slowing down and / or a decrease of the epidermic renewal.

Therefore, the cell renewal no longer compensates for the loss of cells removed on the surface, leading to atrophy of the epithelium, in particular the epidermis and / or a decrease in the thickness of the skin and / or mucous membranes and / or scalp and / or loss of density and / or firmness of the skin and / or mucous membranes and / or scalp. This phenomenon can be accentuated by menopause. The hormonal deficits associated with menopause are accompanied by a decrease in metabolic activity, which could lead to a decrease in the proliferation of keratinocytes and an increase in epidermal differentiation. The use according to the present invention thus makes it possible to promote homeostasis in order to maintain and / or increase the thickness of the skin and / or the mucous membranes and / or the scalp and thus maintain and / or improve the mechanical properties of the skin. skin and / or mucous membranes and / or scalp and / or improve the firmness and / or density of the skin and / or mucous membranes and / or scalp, especially in postmenopausal women. The increase in the thickness of the epithelium, preferentially the epidermis can in particular be evaluated ex vivo model skin biopsy and / or mucosa and / or scalp survival. The epithelium, preferably the epidermis, is measured at the beginning of the experiment before application of the test product and at the end of the test period in the presence of the test product, for example 4 days, preferably 7 days. The thickness of the epithelium, preferentially the epidermis, is said to be increased if the measurement after application of the product is equal to or greater than 5% at the end of the test period, preferably equal to or greater than 10%. Advantageously, the relevant area of the skin, in particular of the human being, to which avicularin is applied (in particular in the form of an aqueous solution or in the form of a plant extract) or a cosmetic or dermatological composition comprising it is selected from the face, neck, décolleté, bust and / or hands, and especially the nasolabial folds, and / or the periorbital area, especially on dark circles and crow's feet and / or the outline of the lips and / or forehead. However, the avicularin according to the invention may also be applied to the body, and in particular to the abdomen, thighs, hips, buttocks and / or waist areas of the body which may show a loss of firmness and / or of density.

Advantageously, avicularine (in particular in the form of an aqueous solution or in the form of a plant extract) according to the invention is present in a cosmetic or dermatological composition according to the invention in a final content of avicularin molecule of between 1.10- 10 and 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably between 1.10-6 and 10%, still more preferably between 1.10-3 and 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, more particularly between 1.10- 2 and 3%, in particular between 0.001 and 0.1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, more particularly between 0.01 and 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The avicularin according to the invention may also be present in a final avicularin molecule content of between 1.1040 and 0.1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, advantageously between 1.10-10 and 1.10-3 ° / (: ), in particular between 1.10-8 and 1.10-6 ° / 0.

In one embodiment according to the present invention, avicularine (in particular in the form of an aqueous solution or in the form of a plant extract) according to the invention is used for the manufacture of a dermatological composition for the care and / or or the dermatological treatment of rosacea, telangiectasia, and / or for the care and / or treatment of pathologies of the oral and / or ocular mucosa, in particular for the care and / or treatment of pathologies of the oral mucosa involving a loss of firmness and / or density at the level of the oral mucosa and / or to improve the oral vascular structure and / or for the care and / or treatment of ocular mucosal pathologies involving a loss of firmness and / or density at the level of the mucosa ocular and / or to improve the ocular vascular structure.

In another embodiment according to the present invention, avicularine (in particular in the form of an aqueous solution or in the form of a plant extract) according to the invention is present in a cosmetic or dermatological composition comprising a cosmetically or dermatologically excipient. acceptable. This cosmetic or dermatological composition is intended for topical application. The terms "cosmetically or dermatologically acceptable excipients" as used herein mean that the composition or components thereof are suitable for use in contact with the skin and / or human mucosa and / or the human scalp without toxicity, incompatibility, instability, allergic response, or their equivalents, undue. The cosmetic or dermatological compositions according to the invention therefore contain a cosmetically or dermatologically acceptable excipient in addition to the extract according to the invention. This excipient is for example at least one compound selected from the group consisting of preservatives, emollients, emulsifiers, surfactants, moisturizers, thickeners, conditioners, mattifying agents, stabilizers, antioxidants, texture agents , gloss agents, film-forming agents, solubilizers, pigments, dyes, perfumes and sunscreens. These excipients are preferably chosen from the group consisting of amino acids and their derivatives, polyglycerols, esters, polymers and cellulose derivatives, lanolin derivatives, phospholipids, lactoferrins, lactoperoxidases, stabilizers based on sucrose, vitamins E and its derivatives, natural and synthetic waxes, vegetable oils, triglycerides, unsaponifiables, phytosterols, vegetable esters, silicones and its derivatives, protein hydrolysates, Jojoba oil and its derivatives, lipo / water-soluble esters, betaines, aminoxides, plant extracts, sucrose esters, titanium dioxides, glycines, and parabens, and more preferably from the group consisting of steareth-2, steareth-21, glycol-15 stearyl ether, cetearyl alcohol, phenoxyethanol, methylparaben, ethylparaben, propylparaben, butylparaben, butyl ethylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, natural tocopherols, glycerine, dihydroxycetyl sodium phosphate, isopropyl hydroxyketyl ether, glycol stearate, triisononanoin, octyl cocoate, polyacrylamide, isoparaffin, laureth-7, carbomer, propylene glycol, hexylene glycol, glycerol, bisabolol, dimethicone, sodium hydroxide, PEG-30-dipolyhydroxystate, capric / caprylic triglycerides, cetearyl octanoate, dibutyl adipate, grape seed, jojoba oil, magnesium sulfate, EDTA, cyclomethicone, xanthan gum, citric acid, sodium lauryl sulfate, waxes and mineral oils, isostearyl isostearate, propylene glycol dipelargonate, propylene glycol isostearate, PEG 8, Beeswax, glycerides of hydrogenated palm heart oil, lanolin oil, sesame oil, cetyl lactate, lanolin alcohol, castor oil, titanium dioxide, lactose, sucrose, low density polyethylene, salted isotonic solution.

The cosmetic composition according to the invention may be chosen from an aqueous or oily solution, an aqueous cream or gel or an oily gel, in particular a shower gel, a shampoo; a milk ; an emulsion, a microemulsion or a nanoemulsion, especially oil-in-water or water-in-oil or multiple or silicone; a mask; a serum; a lotion; a liquid soap; a dermatological bread; an ointment ; a mousse; a patch; an anhydrous product, preferably liquid, pasty or solid, for example in the form of makeup powders, stick or stick, especially in the form of lipstick. Advantageously it is a cream or a serum, in particular an outline of the eyes or lips. The compositions according to the invention are more particularly applied to the face, preferably daily, preferably one to two times daily, preferably in the morning and / or evening. Advantageously, the cosmetic compositions according to the invention contain other ingredients of interest, in particular a cosmetic one, preferably agents having similar properties. Preferably, these are the conventional ingredients of the anti-aging compositions and / or improving the density and / or the firmness of the skin and / or the mucous membranes and / or improving the skin's complexion and / or cutaneous homeostasis, in particular those selected from fillers, tensors, moisturizers, stimulating agents and extracellular matrix molecules. The cosmetic compositions according to the invention may also contain cosmetic active ingredients leading to a complementary or possibly synergistic effect such as moisturizing active agents, anti-aging active agents, anti-radical active agents, protective agents for fibroblast growth factor. (FGF), agents that stimulate the activity and / or proliferation of fibroblasts and / or thermal waters. It may thus be, for example, skin-coloring or pro-pigmenting agents, NO-synthase inhibitors, antiseborrhoeic agents for the care of oily skin, agents stimulating the synthesis of dermal macromolecules or epidermics, in particular of the extracellular matrix and / or preventing their degradation, for a synergistic or complementary effect, agents stimulating the proliferation of fibroblasts or keratinocytes and / or the differentiation of keratinocytes, for a synergistic or complementary effect, of antimicrobial agents, tensing agents, antipollution or anti-radical agents, soothing, calming or relaxing agents, agents acting on the microcirculation to improve the radiance of the complexion, in particular the face, for a synergistic effect or complementary, of photoprotective agents, healing agents, slimming agents, anti-aging agents for a synergistic or complementary effect or possibly moisturizing agents ts and / or strengthening the epidermal barrier. Moisturizing, emollient or humectant active ingredients can enhance the barrier function and reduce water insensitive losses and / or increase the water content of the skin and / or mucous membranes or stimulate secretory activity of the sebaceous glands and / or stimulate synthesis aquaporin to improve the circulation of water in the cells. By way of nonlimiting example, the following active agents may be mentioned: serine, urea and its derivatives, the products marketed under the name Marine Filling Spheres TM, Advances Moisturizing Complex ™, Hyaluronic Filling Spheres ™, Vegetal Filling Spheres ™ Osmogelline ™, Micropatch ™, alkylcelluloses, lecithins, sphingoid-based compounds, ceramides, phospholipids, cholesterol and its derivatives, glycosphingolipids, phytosterols (stigmasterol and beta-sitosterol, campesterol), essential fatty acids, 1-2 diacylglycerol , 4-chromanone, pentacyclic triterpenes such as ursolic acid, petrolatum, lanolin, sugars in particular trehalose and its derivatives, rhamnose, fructose, maltose, lactose, erythritol, mannitol, D-xylose and glucose, adenosine and its derivatives, sorbitol, polyhydric alcohols, advantageously C2-C6, and still advantageously C3-C6, such as glycerol. propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, diglycerine, polyglycerin and their mixtures, glycerol and its derivatives, glycerol polyacrylate, sodium lactate, pentanediol, serine, lactic acid, AHA, BHA , sodium pidolate, xylitol, sodium lactate, ectoin and its derivatives, chitosan and its derivatives, collagen, plankton, steroid derivatives (including DHEA, its 7-oxidized derivatives and / or 17 alkylated and sapogenins), methyl dihydrojasmonate, vitamin D and its derivatives, an extract of Malva sylvestres or an extract of Centella asiatica, homopolymers of acrylic acid, beta5 glucan and in particular sodium carboxymethyl beta-glucan , a C-glycoside derivative such as those described in patent application WO 02/051828, a muscat rose oil, an extract of the micro-alga Prophyridium cruentum enriched in zinc marketed by Vincience under the name Algualane ZincTM, arginine, at cetyl hexapeptide marketed by Lipotech under the name DiffuporineTM, the hydrolyzate of Viola tricolor marketed by Silab under the name AquaphylineTM The active ingredient may also be chosen from anti-aging agents, that is to say having a particular restructuring effect of the skin barrier, the agents preventing and / or decreasing the glycation of skin proteins, in particular dermal proteins, such as collagen, the active agents stimulating the energetic metabolism of the cells and their mixtures, an anti-globally acting agent age, especially niacinamide or vitamin B3 and derivatives. The agent having a restructuring effect of the cutaneous barrier can be chosen from one of the yeast extracts, such as Relipidium ™ from BASF Beauty Care Solutions France SAS, sphingosines such as salicyloyl sphingosine, a mixture of xylitol, xylityl polyglycoside and xylitan. solanaceous extracts such as LipidessenceTM from BASF Beauty Care Solutions France SAS and their blends. Ceramides, sphingoid-based compounds, glycosphingolipids, phospholipids, cholesterol and its derivatives, phytosterols, essential fatty acids, diacylglycerol, 4-chromanone and chromone derivatives and mixtures thereof may also be mentioned in particular. The active ingredient stimulating the energetic metabolism of the cells can for example be chosen from biotin, a mixture of sodium salts, of manganese, zinc and magnesium of pyrrolidone carboxylic acid, a mixture of gluconate, vitamin B5 or pantothenate and derivatives. zinc, copper and magnesium and mixtures thereof. The anti-seborrhoeic agent in the composition according to the invention may be a 5α-reductase inhibitor, such as retinoids, sarcosine, zinc salts, in particular zinc gluconate, zinc salicylate, acid azelaic and / or their derivatives, and / or their mixtures and an extract of Orthosiphon stamineus marketed under the name MAT XSTM bright by BASF Beauty Care Solutions France SAS. The composition may also contain a sebum-absorbing agent, in particular a talc and / or an absorbent polymer, an antibacterial agent, in particular those described in the patent application FR2863893, and in particular a Boldo extract, such an extract being in particular marketed by the Applicant under the name BetapurTM, a comedolytic agent, in particular retinoic acid and one of its derivatives such as isotretinoin, adapalene and / or retinoic acid and benzoyl peroxide, a local antibiotic agent, in particular erythromycin and / or or clindamycin phosphate and mixtures thereof. Among the active agents stimulating the synthesis of macromolecules of the dermis or preventing their degradation, mention may be made of those which act as: an agent stimulating the synthesis of fibronectin, in particular a corn extract, such an extract being in particular marketed by the Applicant under the DelinerTM name and the palmitoyl pentapeptide marketed by SEDERMA under the trade name MatrixilTM, a fibroblast growth factor protection agent (FGF2) of the extracellular matrix against degradation and / or denaturation, in particular a Hibiscus extract abelmoscus as described in the patent application in the name of the Applicant filed under the number FR0654316 and / or a fibroblast growth stimulating agent, for example a fermented soy extract containing peptides, known under the name PhytokineTM marketed by the Applicant and also described in patent application EP1119344 B1 (Laboratories Expanscience), and preferably a combination of these two extracts; an agent stimulating the synthesis of laminin, in particular a malt extract modified by biotechnology, such an extract being in particular marketed by the Applicant under the name Basaline; an agent stimulating the expression and / or the activity of Hyaluronan synthase 2 (HAS2), such as the plant extracts described in patent application FR 2 893 252 A1 and in particular an aqueous Galangal extract (Alpinia galanga); an agent stimulating the synthesis of lysyl oxidase like (LOXL) such as an extract of Geophila cordifolia and those described in the patent application FR2855968, and in particular a dill extract; an agent stimulating the synthesis of intracellular ATP, in particular an extract of algae Laminaria digitata; an active stimulating the synthesis of glycosaminoglycans, such as the product of fermentation of milk; a collagen stimulating active agent such as retinol and / or vitamin C; a metalloproteinase inhibitor (MMP) active agent such as, more particularly, MMPs 1, 2, 3, 9 such as retinoids and derivatives, oligopeptides and lipopeptides, lipoamino acids, malt extract marketed by BASF Beauty Care Solutions France under the trade name CollaliftTM, the hydrolysed extract of potato marketed under the name ExtracelliumTM by BASF Beauty Care Solutions France SAS; lycopene; isoflavones, quercetin, kaempferol, apigenine. Agents stimulating the proliferation of keratinocytes, usable in the composition according to the invention, include retinoids such as retinol and its esters, including retinyl palmitate and phloroglucinol. The agents stimulating the differentiation of keratinocytes include, for example, minerals such as calcium and lignans such as secoisolariciresinol and Achillea millefollium extract sold under the name NeurobioxTM by BASF Beauty Care Solutions France. The antimicrobial agents that may be used in the composition according to the invention may especially be chosen from 2,4,4'-trichloro-2'-hydroxy diphenyl ether (or triclosan), 3,4,4'-trichlorobanilide, phenoxyethanol, phenoxypropanol, phenoxyisopropanol, hexamidine isethionate, metronidazole and its salts, miconazole and its salts, itraconazole, terconazole, econazole, ketoconazole, saperconazole, fluconazole, clotrimazole, butoconazole, oxiconazole, sulfaconazole, sulconazole, terbinafine, undecylenic acid and its salts, benzoyl peroxide, 3-hydroxybenzoic acid, 4-hydroxybenzoic acid, phytic acid , N-acetyl-cysteine acid, lipoic acid, azelaic acid and its salts, arachidonic acid, resorcinol, octoxyglycerine, octanoylglycine, caprylyl glycol, 10-hydroxy-acid, 2-decanoic, farnesol, phytosphingosines and mixtures thereof. Among the tensing agents that may be used in the composition according to the present invention, there may be mentioned in particular synthetic polymers, such as polyurethane latices or acrylic latices; polymers of natural origin, especially polyholosides in the form of starch or in the form of carrageenans, alginates, agars, gellans, cellulosic polymers and pectins; vegetable protein and hydrolyzate of soybean; mixed silicates; microparticles of wax; the colloidal particles of inorganic filler chosen, for example, from silica, silica-alumina composites; as well as their mixtures.

The composition may comprise agents known as antipollution agents, in particular ozone scavengers, for example vitamin C and its derivatives including ascorbyl glucoside; phenols and polyphenols, in particular tannins, ellagic acid and tannic acid; epigallocatechin and natural extracts containing it, in particular green tea extracts; anthocyanins; phenol acids, stilbenes; scavengers of mono- or polycyclic aromatic compounds tannins such as ellagic acid and indole derivatives and / or heavy metal scavengers such as EDTA, anti-radical active agents such as vitamin E and its derivatives such as tocopheryl acetate; bioflavonoids; coenzyme Q10 or ubiquinone. As soothing agents that can be used in the composition according to the invention, mention may be made of: pentacyclic triterpenes, ursolic acid and its salts, oleanolic acid and its salts, betulinic acid and its salts, and salts of the acid salicylic acid and in particular zinc salicylate, bisabolol, allantoin, omega 3 unsaturated oils, cortisone, hydrocortisone, indomethacin and beta-methasone, anti-inflammatory active agents, and especially those described in US Pat. Application FR2847267, in particular the extract of Pueraria lobata root marketed under the name InhipaseTM by BASF Beauty Care Solutions France SAS, extracts of Theobroma cacao. The active ingredients acting on the microcirculation (vasoprotective or vasodilator) may be chosen from flavonoids, ruscogenins, nicotinates, essential oils.

The photoprotective active ingredients or UVA and / or UVB filters that can be used according to the present invention are in particular the photoprotective agents that are active in the UV-A and / or UV-B, such as the para-aminobenzoic acid derivatives, especially UVINUL. P25TM marketed by BASF, salicylic derivatives, in particular homosalate alone or in combination with titanium oxides, dibenzoylmethane derivatives, cinnamic derivatives, diphenylacrylate derivatives, of which Octocrylene sold in particular under the trade name UVINUL N539TM by BASF, benzophenone derivatives, in particular benzophenone-1 sold in particular under the trade name UVINUL 400TM by BASF, benzylidene camphor derivatives, benzimidazole derivatives, triazine derivatives, of which ethylhexyl triazone sold in particular under the trade name UVINUL T150-rm by BASF, benzotriazole derivatives, anthranilic derivatives, imidazoline derivatives benzalmalonat derivatives e, 4,4-diarylbutadiene derivatives, and mixtures thereof. Assets providing a well-being effect such as those mimicking the effects of beta-endorphins to improve skin barrier function, such as those cited in US Patent Application 2006069032; the stimulating assets the synthesis of beta-endorphins such as an extract of the plant Tephrosia purpurea. The slimming active agents may be chosen in particular from: lipoprotein lipase inhibiting agents such as those described in patent US2003086949 (Coletica) and in particular a vine extract from Peru (Uncaria tomentosa); draining assets, including hesperitin laurate (FlavagrumTM), or quercitin caprylate (FlavengerTM); inhibitors of the phosphodiesterase enzyme, activating agents of adenylate cyclase, cAMP and / or active agents capable of entrapping spermine and / or spermidine. Examples of such active ingredients are a Coleus Forskohlii root extract, an extract of cecropia obtusa, Uva lactuca, caffeine, forskolin, theophylline, theobromine and / or their derivatives, a product of hydrolyzed kappa carrageenan called SlimexcessTM marketed by BASF Beauty Care Solutions France SAS and / or their mixtures.

In a particular embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the present invention does not contain a depigmenting agent and / or antityrosinase and / or inhibiting melanogenesis. Many cosmetically active ingredients are known to those skilled in the art for improving the health and / or physical appearance of the skin and / or mucous membranes and / or scalp. The person skilled in the art knows how to formulate the cosmetic compositions to obtain the best effects. On the other hand, the compounds described in the present invention can have a synergistic effect when combined with each other. These combinations are also covered by the present invention. The CTFA Cosmetic Ingredient Handbook, Second Edition (1992) describes various cosmetic and pharmaceutical ingredients commonly used in the cosmetics industry, which are particularly suitable for topical use. Examples of these classes of ingredients include, but are not limited to, the following: abrasive, absorbent, aesthetic purpose compound such as perfumes; pigments; dyes; essential oils, astringents such as clove oil, menthol, camphor, eucalyptus oil, eugenol, menthyl lactate, distillate of Hamelis; anti-acne agents; antiflocculating agents; antifoam agents; antimicrobial agents such as iodopropyl butylcarbamate; antioxidants such as ascorbic acid; binders; biological additives; buffer agents; blowing agents; chelating agents; additives; biocidal agents; denaturants; thickeners; and vitamins; film forming materials; polymers; opacifying agents; pH adjusters; reducing agents; conditioning agents such as humectants, and derivatives or equivalents thereof. In yet another particular embodiment of the present invention, avicularine (pure or in the form of a plant extract) according to the invention is dissolved in a particular polar solvent, such as water, an alcohol , a polyol, a glycol, or a mixture thereof, preferably a hydroglycolic mixture, more preferably containing a glycol selected from caprylyl glycol, hexylene glycol and mixtures thereof. In a particularly advantageous manner, avicularine (pure or in the form of a plant extract) according to the invention is solubilized in an aqueous solution comprising hexylene glycol, caprylyl glycol or their mixture, advantageously hexylene glycol and caprylyl glycol. Advantageously, the aqueous solution in which avicularine (in particular pure or in the form of a plant extract) is solubilized comprises hexylene glycol, in particular between 0.1 and 10% by weight. of hexylene glycol relative to the total weight of the aqueous solution, more particularly between 1 and 5% by weight of hexylene glycol relative to the total weight of the aqueous solution. In particular, the aqueous solution in which the avicularin (in particular pure or in the form of a plant extract) is solubilized according to the invention comprises caprylyl glycol, in particular between 0.01 and 5 ° A) by weight of caprylyl glycol relative to the total weight of the aqueous solution, more particularly between 0.1 and 1% by weight of caprylyl glycol relative to the total weight of the aqueous solution. In a particularly advantageous manner, the aqueous solution in which the avicularin (in particular pure or in the form of a plant extract) is solubilized, comprises hexylene glycol and caprylyl glycol, in particular in the proportions indicated herein. -above. Advantageously, the avicularine (in particular pure or in the form of a plant extract) according to the invention is solubilized in the aqueous solution 5 to a final content of avicularin molecule of between 1.10-8 and 10% by weight relative to total weight of the aqueous solution, preferably between 1.10-7 and 5%, more preferably between 4.10-6 and 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the aqueous solution. In particular this aqueous solution comprises hexylene glycol and caprylyl glycol, preferably in the proportions indicated above for these components. The aqueous solution in which the avicularin (solubilized or in the form of a plant extract) is solubilized according to the invention may comprise a thickening and / or structuring agent such as xanthan gum, advantageously in a content of between 0.degree. , 01 and 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the aqueous solution, in particular between 0.1 and 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the aqueous solution. The present invention further relates to a method of cosmetic care characterized in that it comprises the application to at least one area concerned of healthy skin and / or healthy mucosa and / or healthy scalp, in particular of a human, avicularin according to the invention (in particular in the form of an aqueous solution or a plant extract) or a cosmetic composition comprising avicularine to increase the expression of perlecane and / or dystroglycan, particularly in the extracellular matrix and / or in the basal epithelial membrane, especially the dermal-epidermal junction. Advantageously, this cosmetic care method is for preventing and / or combating the aging of the skin and / or the mucous membranes and / or the scalp, particularly chronobiological and / or photobiological, to prevent and / or fight against the decrease in homeostasis. of the skin and / or the mucous membranes and / or the scalp and / or to improve it, in particular in the epidermis, to strengthen the basal epithelial membrane of the skin and / or the mucous membranes and / or the scalp, preferentially the dermal-epidermal junction, to improve the proliferation and / or differentiation of keratinocytes, especially at the epidermal level, in particular related to the aging of the skin and / or the mucous membranes and / or the scalp, to prevent and / or fight against a decrease of the vascularization of the skin and / or the mucous membranes and / or the scalp and / or to improve it, in particular to improve the structure of the capillaries of the skin and / or the mucous membranes and / or cu particularly hairy scalp, to improve the morphogenesis of the epithelium, the skin and / or mucous membranes and / or the scalp preferentially the epidermis, to restore the epithelial architecture of the skin and / or mucous membranes and / or scalp, preferably epidermal, in particular skins and / or mucous membranes and / or scalp having undergone aging including chronobiological, to improve the skin tone and / or mucous membranes, including homogenize, to improve the firmness and / or the density of the skin and / or the mucous membranes and / or the scalp, and / or to combat the decrease in the thickness of the epithelium of the skin and / or the mucous membranes and / or the leather hair, preferably the epidermis, and / or to increase the thickness of the epithelium of the skin and / or mucous membranes and / or the scalp, preferentially the epidermis, and / or the treatment or prevention of chapped skin. Other objects, features and advantages of the invention will become apparent to those skilled in the art following the reading of the explanatory description which refers to examples which are given by way of illustration only and which can not in in no way limit the scope of the invention. The examples are an integral part of the present invention and any features appearing novel from any prior art from the description taken as a whole, including the examples, form an integral part of the invention in its function and its generality. Thus, each example has a general scope. On the other hand, in the examples, and unless otherwise indicated, the temperature is in degrees Celsius, and the pressure is atmospheric pressure. Figure 1 shows the high performance liquid chromatography (HPLC) analysis of avicularin (Fig. 1A: commercial avicularin uptake spectrum, Fig. 1B Analysis of an extract of Juglans regia 15 containing 'avicularine). EXAMPLE 1 Effect of Avicularin on the Protein Expression of Perlecane in Keratinocytes a) Preparation of an Avicularin Solution An aqueous solution of avicularin (Sigma-Aldrich) at final concentrations of 1.10-6M, 1.10-7M and 1.10-8M (mol / L) in the culture medium described below was tested for its effect. on the protein expression of perlecane. b) Fluoroimmunoassay Test and Results A fluoroimmunoassay (FIA) test was performed and consists of revealing the antigen of interest, here, perlecane, in fluorescence. This method is semi-quantitative, highly sensitive and reproducible, and has the advantage of detecting the protein of interest in its native form in its environment, without denaturing process. Keratinocytes from abdominal skin biopsy of donors aged 50 and 61 years are extracted and fixed at the bottom of the wells at a density of 5000 cells per well, and grow for 3 days in complete medium ie ie containing fetal calf serum (FCS), then 16 hours in defined medium without FBS. They are then cultured for 48 hours with either avicularine obtained in Example 1a) at different final concentrations in the culture medium as described in Example 1a) or without the molecule. The cells are then washed in phosphate buffered saline (PBS) before being fixed, permeabilized, and unmasked. Before applying the primary antibody (anti-perlecane) for 90 minutes, the cells are saturated with BSA (bovine serum albumin) at 1% for 1 hour. After washes in PBS buffer, the secondary antibody bound to fluorocrome FITC (fluorescein isothiocyanate) is incubated for 2 hours. The cells are then washed in PBS buffer and then solubilized with 20 mM ammonium hydroxide and 0.5% 100% triton. The fluorescence is then read on a spectrofluorimeter with the appropriate filters. The results are summarized in Table 1 below. The experiment is performed 6 times (n = 6). The values in the table represent the percentage values reported to the untreated control cells. The values represent the average of several experiments on different batches of extracts. "Moy" means the average and "EC" means the standard deviation. Table la) Percent protein expression of perlecane in keratinocytes of a 50-year-old donor as a function of avicularin concentration used. Average EC Control 100 13.6 Avicularine (1.10-6 M) 160.4 7.51 Avicularine (1.10-7 M) 197.54 24.1 Avicularine (1.10-8 M) 217.4 12.1 Table lb): percentage of protein expression of perlecane in the keratinocytes of a 61-year-old donor as a function of the avicularin concentration used. Mean EC Control 100 13.6 Avicularine (1.10-6 M) 151.3 14.9 Avicularine (1.10-7 M) 163.2 6.8 Avicularine (1.10-8 M) 155 8.9 Conclusions: Avicularine has induces a significant increase in the protein expression of perlecane in keratinocytes, irrespective of the age of the donor among those analyzed. Avicularin therefore induced an improvement in the structural cohesion of the epithelium, preferentially the epidermis. Example 2 Characterization of Avicularin in an Juglans Regia Extract a) Preparation of a Juglans regia extract Juglans regia leaf extract was obtained by maceration in water of 1% leaf by weight of dry matter relative to the total weight of the mixture consisting of water and water. leaves (w / w). The maceration was carried out at ambient temperature, that is to say at 20 ° C. for a period of 2 hours. The resulting extract was then centrifuged for 10 min (8000 rpm) followed by filtered supernatant (0.45) and subjected to HPLC analysis presented below. b) HPLC Characterization Coupled with a Diode Array Detector An analytical characterization of HPLC coupled to a diode array detector was performed to confirm the presence of avicularin in the Juglans regia extract according to the invention (FIG. ).

A commercial solution of avicularin was injected and allowed to establish the absorption spectrum of the molecule, with 2 maxima of absorption at 256 and 352 nm (Figure 1A). The wavelength of 256 nm corresponds to the phenolic compounds and that of 352 nm is specific to the avicularin.

The Juglans regia leaf extract obtained in Example 2a) was analyzed for HPLC. The analysis made it possible to detect an absorbing molecule at the two maxima previously mentioned, 256 nm and 352 nm (FIG. 1B). An external calibration with commercial avicularin, according to a calibration protocol known to those skilled in the art, made it possible to establish the avicularin content in Juglans regia extract. Conclusion: Juglans regia leaf extract contains avicularine at a level of 7.6 ppm. The avicularin of Juglans regia leaf extract can therefore be used to increase the protein expression of perlecane.

Example 3: Example of a composition comprising a plant extract according to the invention intended to be incorporated into a cosmetic composition (cosmetic ingredient) The Juglans regia extract according to the invention is obtained according to Example 2a) and is mixed with the other ingredients of the following formulation: Ingredient% by weight based on total weight water composition> 50 aqueous plant extract (ex 2a) 0.5-5 Hexylene glycol 1-5 Caprylyl glycol 0.1-1 0 / 0.1-1 0/0 xanthan gum Example 4: Examples of compositions comprising avicularin. The procedure is carried out according to the methods known to those skilled in the art for mixing the various parts A, B, C, D, E or F together to prepare a composition according to the present invention. The "products of the invention" represent avicularin from a commercial solution at a final content by weight relative to the total weight of the aqueous solution between 4.10-6 and 1% .The contents are expressed as percentage by weight relative to to the total weight of the composition.

The products of the invention may also be in a form of liposomes containing 5% soy lecithin and incorporating a quaternized soy solution (600 g final) obtained according to the following embodiment: 30 g of soy lecithin 12 g of quaternized soy solution, 1.5 g of avicularin according to Example 1a) are introduced into a pillbox and diluted in 447 g of laboratory pure water. After magnetic stirring for 10 minutes at room temperature, the mixture is violently homogenized for 10 minutes, thus obtaining a liposomal solution in which the liposomes have an average size which can vary between 100 and 800 nanometers according to the exact conditions of the homogenization. The suspension is then gently stirred for 1 hour. 90 g of butylene glycol, 6 g of phenoxyethanol and 6 g of hydroxyethyl cellulose (gelling agent) are then added.

Cosmetic formulation 4a A Water qs 100 2 Butylene Glycol Glycerine 3 Sodium Dihydroxycetyl Phosphate, Isopropyl Hydroxycetyl Ether 2 Glycol Stearate SE 14 Triisononoin 5 Octyl Cocoate 6 Butylene Glycol, Methylparaben, 2 Ethylparaben, Propylparaben, pH adjusted to 5.5 Products of the invention 0.01 - 10% Cosmetic formulation 4b Water qs 100 Butylene Glycol 2 Glycerin 3 Polyacrylamide, Isoparafin, Laureth-7 2.8 Butylene Glycol, Methylparaben, Ethylparaben, Propylparaben; 2 Phenoxyethanol, Methylparaben, Propylparaben, Butylparaben, 2 Ethylparaben Butylene Glycol 0.5 Products of the invention 0.01 - 10 ° A) Cosmetic formulation 4c Carbomer 0.50 Propylene Glycol 3 Glycerol 5 Water qs 100 BCDABDA Octyl Cocoate 5 Bisabolol 0 0.30 Sodium Hydroxide 1.60 Phenoxyethanol, Methylparaben, Propylparaben, Butylpara ben, 0.50 Ethyl pa ra ben Perfume 0.30 Products of the Invention 0.01 - 10 ° A) Dermatological Formulation 4D in form BCDEF ointment Excipients Low density polyethylene Liquid paraffin Product of the invention * * Avicularin comes from an AB 5.5 qs 100 0.001 -0.1 commercial solution. The solution is sterilized before being incorporated into the 4D formulation. .

Claims (16)

REVENDICATIONS1. Topical cosmetic use of avicularin, to prevent and / or fight against the aging of the skin and / or the mucous membranes and / or the scalp including chronobiological and / or photobiological; and / or to restore the epithelial architecture of the skin and / or the mucous membranes and / or the scalp, preferentially epidermal, in particular skin and / or mucous membranes and / or scalp having undergone aging, especially chronobiological aging; and / or to improve the complexion of the skin and / or mucous membranes, in particular to homogenize it; and / or to improve the firmness and / or density of the skin and / or mucous membranes and / or scalp; and / or to fight against the decrease in the thickness of the epithelium of the skin and / or the mucous membranes and / or the scalp, preferentially the epidermis; and / or to increase the thickness of the epithelium of the skin and / or mucous membranes and / or the scalp, preferentially the epidermis. 2. Use according to claim 1 characterized in that the avicularine is in the form of a plant extract, preferably an extract Juglans regia. 3. Use according to claim 2 characterized in that the plant extract is obtained by aqueous extraction. 25 4. Use according to any one of claims 2 or 3 characterized in that the Juglans regia extract is an extract of leaves. 5. Use according to any one of claims 1 to 4 for improving the complexion of the skin by homogenizing the complexion and / or in him 19/12 / 2013donnant a bright, glowing, healthy and / or nourished, an effect good-looking and / or pinkish shine. 6. Use according to any one of claims 1 to 4 for preventing and / or fighting against skin aging including chronobiological reduction or suppression of wrinkles and / or fine lines, especially for mature skin and / or skin with the first signs of aging. 10 7. Use according to any one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that the avicularine is applied topically to at least one area of the healthy skin and / or healthy mucosa and / or scalp healthy, especially of a human being. 15 8. Use according to claim 7, characterized in that the relevant area of the skin is chosen from the face, neck, décolleté, bust and / or hands, and especially the nasolabial folds, and / or the zone periorbital, and / or the contour of the lips, and / or the forehead. 20 9. Use according to any one of claims 1 to 8, characterized in that the avicularine is present in a cosmetic composition comprising a cosmetically acceptable excipient, preferably avicularine being present in a final content of molecule between 1.10-6 and 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. 25 10. Use according to any one of claims 1 to 9, characterized in that the cosmetic composition is chosen from an aqueous or oily solution, an aqueous cream or gel or an oily gel, especially a shower gel, a shampoo; a milk ; a 19/12 / 2013emulsion, a microemulsion or a nanoemulsion, especially huiledans-water or water-in-oil or multiple or silicone; a mask; a serum; a lotion; a liquid soap; a dermatological bread; an ointment ; a mousse; a patch; an anhydrous product, preferably liquid, pasty or solid, for example in the form of makeup powders, stick or stick, especially in the form of lipstick. 11. Cosmetic treatment process characterized in that it comprises the application to at least one area of the healthy skin and / or healthy mucosa and / or the healthy scalp of avicularine or a cosmetic composition comprising: Avicularine to prevent and / or fight against the aging of the skin and / or mucous membranes and / or the scalp including chronobiological and / or photobiological, to restore the epithelial architecture of the skin and / or mucous membranes and / or scalp, preferably epidermal, in particular skins and / or mucous membranes and / or scalp having undergone aging, especially chronobiological, to improve the skin and / or mucous complexion, especially to homogenize, to improve the firmness and / or the density of the skin and / or the mucous membranes and / or the scalp, and / or to fight against the decrease in the thickness of the epithelium of the skin and / or the mucous membranes and / or the scalp preferentially t the epidermis, and / or to increase the thickness of the epithelium of the skin and / or mucous membranes and / or the scalp, preferentially the epidermis. 12. Avicularin or dermatological composition comprising avicularin and a dermatologically acceptable excipient for topical dermatological use for use in the treatment and / or prevention of rosacea, telangiectases, and / or pathologies 19/12 / 2013of oral and / or ocular mucosa and / or to prevent and / or fight against the decrease of the homeostasis of the skin and / or the mucous membranes and / or the scalp and / or to improve it, in particular in the epidermis ; and / or to strengthen the basement epithelial membrane of the skin and / or mucous membranes and / or the scalp, preferably the dermal-epidermal junction; and / or to improve the proliferation and / or differentiation of keratinocytes, especially at the epidermal level, in particular related to the aging of the skin and / or the mucous membranes and / or the scalp; and / or to prevent and / or fight against a decrease in the vascularization of the skin and / or the mucous membranes and / or the scalp and / or to improve it, in particular to improve the structure of the capillaries of the skin and / or mucous membranes and / or scalp including cutaneous; and / or to improve the morphogenesis of the epithelium, the skin and / or the mucous membranes and / or the scalp, preferentially the epidermis; and / or for the treatment or prevention of cracks and / or to increase the expression of perlecane, in particular in the extracellular matrix and / or in the basal epithelial membrane, in particular the dermal-epidermal junction. 13. Avicularin or dermatological composition according to claim 12, characterized in that it is intended for use in increasing the protein expression of perlecane, in particular in the extracellular matrix and / or in the basal epithelial membrane, especially the dermal junction. epidermal. 14. avicularine or dermatological composition according to claim 12 or 13 characterized in that the avicularine is as defined in claims 2 to 4. 19/12/2013 15. avicularine or dermatological composition according to any one of claims 12 to 14 characterized in that it is intended for use to prevent and / or fight against the decrease in homeostasis of the skin and / or mucous membranes and / / or scalp and / or to improve the homeostasis of the skin and / or mucous membranes and / or scalp, particularly in the epidermis. 16. avicularine or dermatological composition according to any one of claims 12 to 15 characterized in that it is intended for use to increase the expression of perlecane and / or dystroglycan in keratinocytes and / or endothelial cells of the skin and / or mucous membranes and / or scalp, preferentially cutaneous. 19/12/2013