EP3043873A1 - Cosmetic or dermatological use of an extract of tapirira guianensis - Google Patents

Cosmetic or dermatological use of an extract of tapirira guianensis

Info

Publication number
EP3043873A1
EP3043873A1 EP14777731.2A EP14777731A EP3043873A1 EP 3043873 A1 EP3043873 A1 EP 3043873A1 EP 14777731 A EP14777731 A EP 14777731A EP 3043873 A1 EP3043873 A1 EP 3043873A1
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
skin
extract
scalp
mucous membranes
tapirira
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Withdrawn
Application number
EP14777731.2A
Other languages
German (de)
French (fr)
Inventor
Valérie ANDRE-FREI
Nicolas Bechetoille
Morgan DOS SANTOS
Patricia Rousselle
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Centre National de la Recherche Scientifique CNRS
Universite Claude Bernard Lyon 1 UCBL
BASF Beauty Care Solutions France SAS
Original Assignee
Centre National de la Recherche Scientifique CNRS
Universite Claude Bernard Lyon 1 UCBL
BASF Beauty Care Solutions France SAS
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Centre National de la Recherche Scientifique CNRS, Universite Claude Bernard Lyon 1 UCBL, BASF Beauty Care Solutions France SAS filed Critical Centre National de la Recherche Scientifique CNRS
Publication of EP3043873A1 publication Critical patent/EP3043873A1/en
Withdrawn legal-status Critical Current

Links

Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/96—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
    • A61K8/97—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/9783—Angiosperms [Magnoliophyta]
    • A61K8/9789—Magnoliopsida [dicotyledons]
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K36/00—Medicinal preparations of undetermined constitution containing material from algae, lichens, fungi or plants, or derivatives thereof, e.g. traditional herbal medicines
    • A61K36/18—Magnoliophyta (angiosperms)
    • A61K36/185—Magnoliopsida (dicotyledons)
    • A61K36/22—Anacardiaceae (Sumac family), e.g. smoketree, sumac or poison oak
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/08—Anti-ageing preparations
    • C—CHEMISTRY; METALLURGY
    • C12—BIOCHEMISTRY; BEER; SPIRITS; WINE; VINEGAR; MICROBIOLOGY; ENZYMOLOGY; MUTATION OR GENETIC ENGINEERING
    • C12N—MICROORGANISMS OR ENZYMES; COMPOSITIONS THEREOF; PROPAGATING, PRESERVING, OR MAINTAINING MICROORGANISMS; MUTATION OR GENETIC ENGINEERING; CULTURE MEDIA
    • C12N5/00—Undifferentiated human, animal or plant cells, e.g. cell lines; Tissues; Cultivation or maintenance thereof; Culture media therefor
    • C12N5/06—Animal cells or tissues; Human cells or tissues
    • C12N5/0602—Vertebrate cells
    • C12N5/0625—Epidermal cells, skin cells; Cells of the oral mucosa
    • C12N5/0629—Keratinocytes; Whole skin
    • C—CHEMISTRY; METALLURGY
    • C12—BIOCHEMISTRY; BEER; SPIRITS; WINE; VINEGAR; MICROBIOLOGY; ENZYMOLOGY; MUTATION OR GENETIC ENGINEERING
    • C12N—MICROORGANISMS OR ENZYMES; COMPOSITIONS THEREOF; PROPAGATING, PRESERVING, OR MAINTAINING MICROORGANISMS; MUTATION OR GENETIC ENGINEERING; CULTURE MEDIA
    • C12N2500/00—Specific components of cell culture medium
    • C12N2500/70—Undefined extracts
    • C12N2500/76—Undefined extracts from plants
    • C—CHEMISTRY; METALLURGY
    • C12—BIOCHEMISTRY; BEER; SPIRITS; WINE; VINEGAR; MICROBIOLOGY; ENZYMOLOGY; MUTATION OR GENETIC ENGINEERING
    • C12N—MICROORGANISMS OR ENZYMES; COMPOSITIONS THEREOF; PROPAGATING, PRESERVING, OR MAINTAINING MICROORGANISMS; MUTATION OR GENETIC ENGINEERING; CULTURE MEDIA
    • C12N2501/00—Active agents used in cell culture processes, e.g. differentation

Definitions

  • TITLE COSMETIC OR DERMATOLOGICAL USE OF A TAPIRIRA GUYANENSIS EXTRACT
  • the invention relates to the topical cosmetic or dermatological use of an extract of Tapirira guyanensis, to stimulate the expression of perlecane and / or dystroglycan and / or collagen XVIII and / or VE-cadherin and / or claudin-5, in particular in the extracellular matrix and / or in the basal epithelial membrane, in particular the dermal-epidermal junction and / or the cosmetic composition containing it.
  • perlecane plays a major role in the morphogenesis of the epithelium, in particular the epidermis but also in the survival, proliferation and differentiation of keratinocytes and endothelial cells, in particular skin. It regulates these processes by controlling the bioavailability of growth factors.
  • Dystroglycan is a potential glycoprotein receptor for perlecane.
  • Perlecane and dystroglycan are expressed on basement membranes, ubiquitous structures located in different tissues such as epithelia and endotheliums but also in different cell types such as keratinocytes, fibroblasts, and endothelial cells. They interact together and help to ensure the strength and stability of the structure of the skin, mucous membranes and scalp, especially the epithelium, especially the epidermis and the dermis.
  • the expression of perlecane and dystroglycan is drastically reduced.
  • the expression of perlecane strongly decreases at the level of the dermo-epidermal junction and dermal capillaries with age.
  • Collagen is a constitutive protein of the extracellular matrix (ECM) present in large quantities in vertebrate tissues. It is a large family comprising 29 different types, among which collagen XVIII. The latter is known to bind to proteoglycans with heparan sulfate (HSPGs), and could therefore participate in the morphogenesis of the epithelium, especially the epidermis, particularly in the mucous membranes.
  • ECM extracellular matrix
  • HSPGs heparan sulfate
  • Cadherins are a family of glycoproteins, including VE-cadherin, expressed on the surface of endothelial cells in particular. VE-cadherin plays an important role in cell adhesion within tissues, thus at intercellular junctions.
  • claudines are transmembrane proteins constituting so-called tight junctions, playing a role in cell adhesion. These two families of proteins are necessary for the survival of cells and have an effect on the retention of fluids and thus on cellulitis and periorbital pockets.
  • an extract of Tapirira guyanensis stimulates the expression of HSPGs and glycoproteins of basal laminae, and more particularly of perlecane and dystroglycan, in particular in the extracellular matrix and / or in the basement epithelial membrane, especially the dermal-epidermal junction, more particularly in keratinocytes and / or endothelial cells of the skin and / or mucous membranes and / or scalp, and preferably cutaneous skin.
  • Targeting both keratinocytes and endothelial cells, especially cutaneous cells, has a double effect: 1) on the improvement of the microvascular pathway to nourish the skin, the mucous membranes and / or the scalp and 2) on improving the complexion in terms of brightness.
  • Targeting not only perlecane but also dystroglycan also makes it possible to act completely on the perlecane expression and activity pathway.
  • Tapirira guyanensis extract increases the expression of VE-cadherin and claudin-5, in particular at the level of the dermal-epidermal junction, more particularly in keratinocytes and / or endothelial cells. , and even more particularly in endothelial cells, skin and / or mucous and / or scalp, and preferably cutaneous. This extract therefore makes it possible to reduce, eliminate or prevent the retention of fluids and thus the appearance of cellulitis and periorbital pockets. Finally, the inventors discovered that Tapirira guyanensis extract increased the expression of collagen XVIII.
  • Tapirira guyanensis is a tree that grows generally in South America, especially in the Amazon and especially in French Guiana.
  • Some parts of the tree have been described as part of specific treatments in the local pharmacopoeia. Thus it is commonly used as an anti-infective administered orally.
  • the use of its bark on the oral and vaginal mucosa in specific pharmaceutical applications has already been described, in particular in cold macerate or decoction administered in a haemostatic mouthwash for the control of diarrhea and vomiting or administered as an application on Vaginal mucosa to prevent bleeding and vaginal infections following childbirth. Finely grated and pressed, the bark is also used as a gargle against benign oral candidiasis (Phytochemical study of Amazonian plants with antiplasmodial activity, Vincent ROUMY, July 2007).
  • the present invention therefore relates to the topical cosmetic or dermatological use of an extract of Tapirira guyanensis, to stimulate the expression of perlecane and / or dystroglycan and / or VE-cadherin and / or claudin-5. and / or collagen XVIII, especially in the extracellular matrix and / or in the basal epithelial membrane, in particular the dermal-epidermal junction.
  • the use according to the invention is cosmetic and applied topically to at least one relevant area of healthy skin and / or healthy mucosa and / or healthy scalp, in particular of a human being. .
  • the extract of Tapirira guyanensis is obtained from the aerial parts, in particular leaves, preferably obtained by aqueous extraction.
  • Tapirira guyanensis stimulates the expression of perlecane and / or dystroglycan in the keratinocytes and / or endothelial cells of the skin and / or mucous membranes and / or the scalp, preferentially the endothelial cells of the skin. the skin.
  • the present invention also relates to a cosmetic composition
  • a cosmetic composition comprising an extract of Tapirira guyanensis and a topically acceptable cosmetic excipient.
  • the term "use and / or cosmetic composition” means a non-pharmaceutical use and / or composition, that is to say which is not intended for a therapeutic use and which is intended to improve aesthetics and / or comfort and that is performed / applied on a healthy body part, especially healthy mucosa, healthy skin and / or healthy scalp.
  • the term “healthy skin”, “healthy mucosa” or “healthy scalp” means an area of skin, mucosa or scalp on which the extract according to the invention is applied and called “ non-pathological "by a dermatologist, that is to say not having any infection, disease or skin condition such as candidiasis, impetigo, psoriasis, eczema, acne or dermatitis, or sores or wounds.
  • the term "cosmetic and / or dermatological topically acceptable" an ingredient suitable for topical application, non-toxic, non-irritating to the skin and / or mucous membranes, does not induce response allergic, which is not chemically unstable.
  • the term "topical application" of an ingredient the direct local application and / or the vaporization of the ingredient on the surface of the skin and / or mucous membranes and / or the scalp.
  • the term "mucosa (s)" refers to the ocular mucosa, the vaginal mucosa, the urogenital mucosa, the anal mucosa, the nasal mucosa and / or the oral mucosa, in particular the oral, labial and / or the gingival mucosa, preferably the ocular and / or oral mucosa, and even more preferentially, the labial and / or ocular mucosa.
  • the plant extract of Tapirira guyanensis according to the invention may be extracted from the whole plant or from one or more parts of the plant, and in particular chosen from the root, the stem, the bark, the flower. , seed, germ, fruit and / or leaf and mixtures thereof.
  • the extract according to the invention is preferably extracted from the upper parts of the plant, namely the fruit, the leaves and the branches, and even more preferentially aerial parts, that is to say leaves and branches.
  • the active ingredient according to the invention is an extract of leaves of Tapirira guyanensis.
  • the leaves are indeed the part of the plant that presents the activity maximum and their harvest is part of a sustainable development approach.
  • the extract according to the invention can then be obtained by plant extraction methods known in the field, for example by maceration of at least a portion of the plant, preferably between 1 and 10% (w / w) in the plant.
  • a solvent or a mixture of solvents preferably a protic polar solvent, and advantageously in water, an alcohol, a glycol, a polyol, a water / alcohol mixture, water / glycol or water / polyol (such as water mixed with ethanol, glycerol, butylene glycol or other glycols, such as xylitol etc.) from 100/0 to 0/100 (v / v).
  • the extract is preferably obtained by aqueous extraction.
  • Tipirira guyanensis extract obtained by aqueous extraction means any extract obtained by extraction with an aqueous solution containing more than 60% by weight, advantageously at least 70% by weight, in particular at least 80% by weight. by weight, more particularly at least 90% by weight, particularly at least 95% by weight, of water relative to the total weight of the aqueous solution, more advantageously not containing butylene glycol, in particular not containing alcohol, more particularly containing only water.
  • the extract according to the invention is obtained by extraction at a temperature of between 0 ° C. and 30 ° C., in particular by cold maceration, preferably at 4 ° C., or at room temperature. that is to say between 18 and 25 ° C, preferably 20 ° C, optionally after a drying step of the plant.
  • the extract according to the invention is obtained by maceration for a period between 30 minutes and 24 hours, preferably between 1 hour and 20 hours, more preferably between 2 and 16 hours, in particular 16 hours.
  • the extract according to the invention is an extract obtained by cold maceration and / or at ambient temperature, preferably a mixture of stem and leaves, even more preferably an extract of leaves, possibly after a drying step of the plant.
  • the extract of Tapirira guyanensis is obtained from the aerial parts and advantageously the leaves, with a cold extraction in an aqueous medium, with butylene glycol or aqueous-alcoholic, preferentially in water.
  • water preferably conducted under the following conditions:
  • a temperature preferably between 0 and 20 ° C., in particular between 0 and 10 ° C. and advantageously at about 4 ° C. and / or
  • This extraction method indeed has the advantage of providing an active ingredient with a maximum stimulating activity of the expression of HSPGs, and in particular of perlecane, dystroglycan and / or collagen XVIII and / or with an activity of increased expression of VE-cadherin and / or claudin-5.
  • the extract is then solubilized in an aqueous vehicle, preferably water.
  • the extract is then used in accordance with the present invention, optionally after filtration.
  • the extract obtained is then preferably centrifuged and / or filtered and / or distilled to recover the active soluble fraction. It is preferably filtered at a cut-off point of 0.45 ⁇ m, more preferably 0.22 ⁇ m. Additional steps of discoloration and / or deodorization may be performed on the extract at any stage of extraction and according to techniques known to those skilled in the art.
  • the extract according to the invention can also be subsequently concentrated by evaporation of the solvent, for example by lyophilization or by atomization.
  • the quantity of plant during extraction preferably the upper parts of the plant, advantageously the aerial parts, in particular the sheet, is 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the plant / solvent mixture.
  • extraction the solvent being preferably an aqueous solution.
  • the plant is crushed before extraction.
  • the extract obtained is preferably soluble and / or dissolved in a particularly polar solvent, such as water, an alcohol, a polyol, a glycol, or a mixture thereof, preferably a hydroglycolic mixture, more preferably containing a glycol chosen from caprylyl glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol and mixtures thereof.
  • a particularly polar solvent such as water, an alcohol, a polyol, a glycol, or a mixture thereof, preferably a hydroglycolic mixture, more preferably containing a glycol chosen from caprylyl glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol and mixtures thereof.
  • the extract is dissolved and / or soluble in an aqueous solution containing hexylene glycol and / or pentylene glycol, in particular containing between 0.1 and 10% by weight of hexylene glycol and / or pentylene glycol by relative to the total weight of the aqueous solution, more particularly between 1 and 5% by weight of hexylene glycol and / or pentylene glycol relative to the total weight of the aqueous solution.
  • the extract is soluble in an aqueous solution containing caprylyl glycol, in particular containing between 0.01 and 5% by weight of caprylyl glycol relative to the total weight of the aqueous solution, more particularly between 0.1 and 1%.
  • the aqueous solution does not contain butylene glycol.
  • the extract thus obtained is adjusted and / or maintained at a neutral pH in order to avoid the increase in HI which appears undesirably with an extract at basic pH.
  • stimulation of the expression of perlecane and / or dystroglycan and / or VE-cadherin and / or claudin-5 and / or collagen XVIII means an increase of the gene and / or protein expression respectively of perlecane and / or dystroglycan and / or VE-cadherin and / or claudin-5 and / or collagen XVIII, preferentially of the gene and / or protein expression perlecane and / or dystroglycan and / or VE-cadherin and / or claudin-5, more preferably protein expression.
  • This increase can be measured on a model, comprising at least one cell type having an expression of perlecane and / or dystroglycan and / or VE-cadherin and / or claudin-5 and / or collagen XVIII, advantageously the keratinocytes and / or endothelial cells, preferably cutaneous, in contact with the extract of Tapirira guyanensis according to the invention and results in an increase in the respective gene and / or protein expression of perlecane and / or dystroglycan equal or greater at 10%, advantageously equal to or greater than 20%, relative to the level of gene and / or protein expression in a control or control model, that is to say without contacting the extract of Tapirira guyanensis according to the invention.
  • the increase of this expression is preferentially protein.
  • the use according to the present invention is to prevent and / or fight against aging of the skin and / or mucous membranes and / or scalp including chronobiological and / or photobiological, to prevent and / or fight against the decrease in homeostasis of the skin and / or mucous membranes and / or scalp and / or to improve it, especially in the epidermis, for reinforcing the basal epithelial membrane of the skin and / or the mucous membranes and / or the scalp, preferentially the dermo-epidermal junction, to improve the proliferation and / or differentiation of keratinocytes, especially at the epidermal level, in particular bound aging of the skin and / or the mucous membranes and / or the scalp, to prevent and / or fight against a decrease in the vascularization of the skin and / or the mucous membranes and / or the scalp and / or to improve it , in particular for improving the structure of the capillaries of the skin and
  • the purpose of the use according to the present invention is to improve the complexion of the skin, advantageously by eliminating redness and / or by homogenizing the complexion and / or by giving it a luminous, radiant appearance, in good health and / or nourished, a good-looking effect and / or a pinkish shine.
  • the radiance of the complexion generally reflects a state of good health of the skin.
  • Many intrinsic or extrinsic factors can cause a fuzzy, inhomogeneous complexion.
  • Factors affecting the radiance of the complexion of the skin include stress, fatigue, hormonal changes, dehydration of the epithelium, preferentially the epidermis, pollutants and chronobiological and photobiological aging. These factors tend to blur the complexion, make it inhomogeneous, dull, waxy, even sickly.
  • the expression of perlecane and dystroglycan has an impact on the microvascular pathway which allows to better nourish the skin and better detoxify it thus giving it a healthy and healthy appearance.
  • the cutaneous color is influenced by the microcirculation: by reaching the microvessels, the light comes into contact with the red cells that absorb specifically in the green. The red is reflected on the surface, giving the skin a rosy complexion and therefore a pinkish shine.
  • the radiance of the complexion also depends on the reflective power of the skin. This reflective power is influenced by the texture of the skin. A skin with a softer, more supple texture will therefore have a better respect.
  • the restoration of the epidermal architecture and the improvement of the morphogenesis of the epithelium, preferentially the epidermis obtained by stimulating the expression of perlecane and / or dystroglycan will therefore also improve the skin's complexion. .
  • the improvement in the radiance of the complexion called “radiance” or “glow” in English can in particular be measured by an objective instrumental method.
  • This in vivo measurement method consists of taking high-resolution cross-polarized photographs of the volunteers' faces taken at 45 ° before and after application of the tested product. On the basis of these digital photographs, an image analysis makes it possible to extract and to quantify specific parameters (for example: L *, a *, b *, C, h °) related to the color, the brightness, the homogeneity, and the texture of the skin.
  • the so-called gloss gloss in English can in particular be measured according to this method on the basis of high resolution photographs in parallel polarized and polarized configuration of the face of the volunteers taken at 45 ° before and after application of the tested product.
  • an image analysis makes it possible to extract and quantify specific parameters related to brightness such as specular gloss and contrast brightness.
  • the use according to the present invention aims to prevent and / or fight against aging of the skin and / or mucous membranes and / or the scalp including chronobiological or photobiological by reducing or eliminating wrinkles and / or fine lines, especially for mature skin and / or skin with the first signs of aging.
  • the use according to the present invention aims to prevent and / or fight against the decrease in the homeostasis of the skin and / or mucous membranes and / or scalp and / or the skin. to improve, especially in the epidermis.
  • Homeostasis particularly cutaneous, and in particular epidermal, results from a finely tuned balance between the proliferation and differentiation processes of skin cells and in particular keratinocytes. These proliferation and differentiation processes participate in the renewal and / or regeneration of the skin and lead to the maintenance of a constant thickness of the skin, and in particular of a constant thickness of the epithelium, preferentially the epidermis. This homeostasis also contributes to maintaining the mechanical properties of the skin, mucous membranes and scalp.
  • this cutaneous homeostasis can be altered by certain physiological factors (age, menopause, hormones, stress %) and extrinsic factors (pollutants, ).
  • the regenerative potential of the epithelium, in particular the epidermis becomes less important: the cells of the basal layer divide less actively, leading notably to a slowing down and / or a decrease of the epidermic renewal.
  • the cell renewal no longer compensates for the loss of cells removed on the surface, leading to atrophy of the epithelium, in particular the epidermis and / or a decrease in the thickness of the skin and / or mucous membranes and / or scalp and / or loss of density and / or firmness of the skin and / or mucous membranes and / or scalp.
  • This phenomenon can be accentuated by menopause.
  • the hormonal deficits associated with menopause are accompanied by a decrease in metabolic activity, which could lead to a decrease in the proliferation of keratinocytes and an increase in epidermal differentiation.
  • the use according to the present invention therefore makes it possible promote homeostasis to maintain and / or increase the thickness of the skin and / or mucous membranes and / or scalp and thus maintain and / or improve the mechanical properties of the skin and / or mucous membranes and / or scalp and / or improve the firmness and / or density of the skin and / or mucous membranes and / or scalp, especially in postmenopausal women.
  • the increase in the thickness of the epithelium, preferentially the epidermis can in particular be evaluated ex vivo model skin biopsy and / or mucosa and / or scalp survival.
  • the epithelium, preferably the epidermis is measured at the beginning of the experiment before application of the test product and at the end of the test period in the presence of the test product, for example 4 days, preferably 7 days.
  • the thickness of the epithelium, preferentially the epidermis is said to be increased if the measurement after application of the product is equal to or greater than 5% at the end of the test period, preferably equal to or greater than 10%.
  • the use according to the present invention aims to combat, treat and / or prevent the retention of water and / or cellulitis and / or periorbital pockets and / or increase and / or or maintain cell adhesion, particularly for the purpose of combating, treating and / or preventing periorbital pockets.
  • periorbital pockets have always been considered unsightly and it has always been sought to hide or even eliminate them.
  • the inventors have discovered that the extract according to the invention has an effect on the reduction of vasodilatation and excessive edema due to lymphatic stasis, especially in the periorbital zone and thus on the prevention or treatment of periocular pockets.
  • peripheral pocket is meant in the sense of the present invention, an area located around the eye, particularly below and on the inner side of the eye, having a relief that is not in continuity with the skin of the face, that is to say hollow or pocket (inflated area).
  • a periorbital pocket can be differentiated from a ring in that it has a different volume. Dark circles are also usually darker than puffiness. Their location and appearance are different. Their stability and evolution are different over time.
  • the effect on periorbital pockets can be measured by simple visual observation or comparative analysis of images.
  • the relevant zone of the skin, in particular of the human being, on which the extract of Tapirira guyanensis according to the invention is applied or a cosmetic or dermatological composition comprising it is chosen from the face, the neck, the Vietnameselleté, the bust and / or the hands, and especially the nasolabial folds, and / or the periorbital area, especially on dark circles and crow's feet and / or the contour of the lips and / or the forehead.
  • the extract can also be applied to the body, and especially on the belly, thighs, hips, buttocks and / or waist areas of the body that can show a loss of firmness and / or density.
  • the area of application is obviously the periorbital zone.
  • the plant extract of Tapirira guyanensis according to the invention is used alone or in a cosmetic or dermatological composition, at a concentration of between 1.10 -4 and 10% by weight, and preferably between 1.10 -4 and 5% and more particularly between 1.10 3 and 3% by weight relative to the weight of the total composition, in particular between 0.001 and 0.1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. be present in a content of between 0.01 and 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the extract of Tapirira guyanensis is used for the manufacture of a dermatological composition for the care and / or the dermatological treatment of rosacea, telangiectases, and / or for the care and / or or treatment of pathologies of the oral and / or ocular mucosa, in particular for the care and / or treatment of pathologies of the oral mucosa involving loss of firmness and / or density in the oral mucosa and / or for improving the vascular structure and / or for the care and / or treatment of ocular mucosal pathologies involving a loss of firmness and / or density in the ocular mucosa and / or for improving the ocular vascular structure and / or for the treatment of pathologies involving excessive or pathological degradation of cell adhesion and / or pathologies related to the retention of water or fluids.
  • the Tapirira guyanensis extract according to the invention is present in a cosmetic or dermatological composition comprising a topically acceptable cosmetic or dermatological excipient.
  • This cosmetic or dermatological composition is advantageously intended for topical application.
  • the cosmetic or dermatological compositions according to the invention therefore contain a cosmetic or dermatological excipient topically acceptable in addition to the extract according to the invention.
  • This excipient is for example at least one compound selected from the group consisting of preservatives, emollients, emulsifiers, surfactants, moisturizers, thickeners, conditioners, mattifying agents, stabilizers, antioxidants, texture agents , gloss agents, film-forming agents, solubilizers, pigments, dyes, perfumes and sunscreens.
  • excipients are preferably chosen from the group consisting of amino acids and their derivatives, polyglycerols, esters, polymers and cellulose derivatives, lanolin derivatives, phospholipids, lactoferrins, lactoperoxidases, stabilizers based on sucrose, vitamins E and its derivatives, natural and synthetic waxes, vegetable oils, triglycerides, unsaponifiables, phytosterols, vegetable esters, silicones and its derivatives, protein hydrolysates, Jojoba oil and its derivatives, lipo / water-soluble esters, betaines, aminoxides, plant extracts, sucrose esters, titanium dioxides, glycines, and parabens, and more preferably from the group consisting of steareth-2, steareth-21, glycol-15 stearyl ether, cetearyl alcohol, phenoxyethanol, methylparaben, ethylparaben, propylparaben, butylparaben, butyl
  • the cosmetic composition according to the invention may be chosen from an aqueous or oily solution, an aqueous cream or gel or an oily gel, in particular a shower gel, a shampoo; a milk ; an emulsion, a microemulsion or a nanoemulsion, especially oil-in-water or water-in-oil or multiple or silicone; a mask; a serum; a lotion; a liquid soap; a dermatological bread; an ointment ; a mousse; a patch; an anhydrous product, preferably liquid, pasty or solid, for example in the form of makeup powders, stick or stick, especially in the form of lipstick.
  • it is a cream or a serum, in particular an outline of the eyes or lips.
  • compositions according to the invention are more particularly applied to the face, preferably daily, preferably one to two times a day, preferably in the morning and / or evening.
  • the cosmetic compositions according to the invention contain other ingredients of interest, in particular a cosmetic one, preferably agents having similar properties.
  • these are the conventional ingredients of the anti-aging and / or improving the density and / or the firmness of the skin and / or mucous membranes and / or improving the complexion of the skin and / or cutaneous homeostasis including those selected from fillers, tensors, moisturizing agents, stimulating agents and extracellular matrix molecules.
  • the cosmetic compositions according to the invention may also contain cosmetic active ingredients leading to a complementary or possibly synergistic effect such as moisturizing active agents, anti-aging active agents, anti-radical active agents, and fibroblast growth factor protective agents ( FGF), agents that stimulate the activity and / or proliferation of fibroblasts and / or thermal waters.
  • cosmetic active ingredients leading to a complementary or possibly synergistic effect such as moisturizing active agents, anti-aging active agents, anti-radical active agents, and fibroblast growth factor protective agents ( FGF), agents that stimulate the activity and / or proliferation of fibroblasts and / or thermal waters.
  • FGF fibroblast growth factor protective agents
  • Moisturizing, emollient or humectant active ingredients can enhance the barrier function and reduce water insensitive losses and / or increase the water content of the skin and / or mucous membranes or stimulate secretory activity of the sebaceous glands and / or stimulate synthesis aquaporin to improve the circulation of water in the cells.
  • the following active agents may be mentioned: serine, urea and its derivatives, the products marketed under the name Marine Filling Spheres TM, Advances Moisturizing Complex TM, Hyaluronic Filling Spheres TM, plant filling spheres TM Osmogelline TM, Micropatch TM, alkylcelluloses, lecithins, sphingoid-based compounds, ceramides, phospholipids, cholesterol and its derivatives, glycosphingolipids, phytosterols (stigmasterol and beta-sitosterol, campesterol), essential fatty acids, 1-2 diacylglycerol, 4-chromanone, pentacyclic triterpenes such as ursolic acid, petrolatum, lanolin, sugars, in particular trehalose and its derivatives, rhamnose, fructose, maltose, lactose, erythritol, mannitol, D-xylose
  • the active ingredient may also be chosen from anti-aging agents, that is to say having a restructuring effect on the cutaneous barrier, the agents preventing and / or reducing the glycation of the proteins of the skin in question.
  • anti-aging agents that is to say having a restructuring effect on the cutaneous barrier
  • the agents preventing and / or reducing the glycation of the proteins of the skin in question.
  • dermal proteins such as collagen, cells stimulating energy metabolism and their mixtures
  • a global anti-aging agent in particular niacinamide or vitamin B3 and derivatives thereof.
  • the agent having a restructuring effect of the cutaneous barrier can be chosen from one of the yeast extracts such as Relipidium TM from BASF Beauty Care Solutions France SAS, sphingosines such as salicyloyl sphingosine, a mixture of xylitol, xylityl polyglycoside and xylitan solanaceous extracts such as Lipidessence TM from BASF Beauty Care Solutions France SAS and their blends. Mention may also be made in particular of ceramides, compounds based on sphingoids, glycosphingolipids, phospholipids, cholesterol and its derivatives, phytosterols, essential fatty acids, diacylglycerol, 4-chromanone and chromone derivatives and mixtures thereof. vitamin B5 or pantothenate and derivatives
  • the active agent stimulating the energetic metabolism of the cells can for example be chosen from biotin, a mixture of sodium, manganese, zinc and magnesium salts of pyrrolidone carboxylic acid, a mixture of zinc gluconate, copper and magnesium. magnesium and their mixtures.
  • the anti-seborrhoeic agent in the composition according to the invention may be a 5 ⁇ -reductase inhibitor, such as retinoids, sarcosine, zinc salts, in particular zinc gluconate, zinc salicylate, acid azelaic acid and / or their derivatives, and / or their mixtures and an Orthosiphon stamineus extract sold under the name MAT XS TM bright by BASF Beauty Care Solutions France SAS.
  • a 5 ⁇ -reductase inhibitor such as retinoids, sarcosine, zinc salts, in particular zinc gluconate, zinc salicylate, acid azelaic acid and / or their derivatives, and / or their mixtures and an Orthosiphon stamineus extract sold under the name MAT XS TM bright by BASF Beauty Care Solutions France SAS.
  • the composition may also contain a sebum-absorbing agent, in particular a talc and / or an absorbent polymer, an antibacterial agent, in particular those described in the patent application FR2863893, and in particular an extract of Boldo, such an extract being in particular marketed by the Applicant under the name Betapur, a comedolytic agent, in particular retinoic acid and one of its derivatives such as isotretinoin, adapalene and / or retinoic acid and benzoyl peroxide, a local antibiotic agent, in particular erythromycin and / or clindamycin phosphate and mixtures thereof.
  • a sebum-absorbing agent in particular a talc and / or an absorbent polymer
  • an antibacterial agent in particular those described in the patent application FR2863893
  • an extract of Boldo such an extract being in particular marketed by the Applicant under the name Betapur
  • a comedolytic agent in particular retinoic acid and one of its derivative
  • active agents stimulating the synthesis of macromolecules of the dermis or preventing their degradation there may be mentioned those which act as:
  • an agent stimulating the synthesis of fibronectin in particular a corn extract, such an extract being in particular marketed by the Applicant under the name Deliner TM and the palmitoyl pentapeptide marketed by SEDERMA under the trade name Matrixil TM,
  • an agent for protecting the fibroblast growth factor (FGF2) of the extracellular matrix against its degradation and / or denaturation in particular an extract of Hibiscus abelmoscus as described in the patent application in the Applicant's name filed under No. FR0654316 and / or a fibroblast growth stimulating agent, for example a fermented soy extract containing peptides, known under the name Phytokine TM marketed by the Applicant and also described in patent application EPI 119344 B1 (Laboratoires Expanscience) and preferably a combination of these two extracts;
  • FGF2 fibroblast growth factor
  • an extract of Hibiscus abelmoscus as described in the patent application in the Applicant's name filed under No. FR0654316 and / or a fibroblast growth stimulating agent, for example a fermented soy extract containing peptides, known under the name Phytokine TM marketed by the Applicant and also described in patent application EPI 119344 B1
  • an agent stimulating the synthesis of laminin in particular a biotechnologically modified malt extract, such an extract being in particular marketed by the Applicant under the name Basaline TM;
  • HAS2 Hyaluronan synthase 2
  • HAS2 Hyaluronan synthase 2
  • LOXL lysyl oxidase like
  • an agent stimulating the synthesis of intracellular ATP in particular an extract of alga Laminaria digitata;
  • glycosaminoglycans such as the product of fermentation of milk
  • a collagen stimulating active agent such as retinol and / or vitamin C
  • MMP metalloproteinase inhibitor active ingredient
  • MMPs 1, 2, 3, 9 such as retinoids and derivatives, oligopeptides and lipopeptides, lipoamino acids
  • malt extract marketed by BASF Beauty Care Solutions France under the trade name Collalift TM, the hydrolysed extract of potato marketed under the name Extracellium TM by BASF Beauty Care Solutions France SAS; lycopene; isoflavones, quercetin, kaempferol, apigenine.
  • the agents stimulating the proliferation of keratinocytes include retinoids such as retinol and its esters, including retinyl palmitate and phloroglucinol.
  • the agents stimulating the differentiation of keratinocytes include, for example, minerals such as calcium and lignans such as secoisolariciresinol and Achillea millefollium extract sold under the name Neurobiox TM by BASF Beauty Care Solutions France.
  • the antimicrobial agents that may be used in the composition according to the invention may especially be chosen from 2,4,4'-trichloro-2'-hydroxy diphenyl ether (or triclosan), 3,4,4'-trichlorobanilide phenoxyethanol, phenoxypropanol, phenoxyisopropanol, hexamidine isethionate, metronidazole and its salts, miconazole and its salts, itraconazole, terconazole, econazole, ketoconazole, saperconazole, fluconazole, clotrimazole, butoconazole, oxiconazole, sulfaconazole, sulconazole, terbinafine, undecylenic acid and its salts, peroxide benzoyl, 3-hydroxy benzoic acid, 4-hydroxy benzoic acid, phytic acid, N-acetyl-L-cysteine acid, lipoic acid, azelaic acid and its salt
  • tensing agents that may be used in the composition according to the present invention, there may be mentioned in particular synthetic polymers, such as polyurethane latices or acrylic latices; polymers of natural origin, especially polyholosides in the form of starch or in the form of carrageenans, alginates, agars, gellans, cellulosic polymers and pectins; vegetable protein and hydrolyzate of soybean; mixed silicates; microparticles of wax; the colloidal particles of inorganic filler chosen, for example, from silica, silica-alumina composites; as well as their mixtures.
  • synthetic polymers such as polyurethane latices or acrylic latices
  • polymers of natural origin especially polyholosides in the form of starch or in the form of carrageenans, alginates, agars, gellans, cellulosic polymers and pectins
  • vegetable protein and hydrolyzate of soybean mixed silicates
  • the composition may comprise agents known as antipollution agents, in particular ozone scavengers, for example vitamin C and its derivatives including ascorbyl glucoside; phenols and polyphenols, in particular tannins, ellagic acid and tannic acid; epigallocatechin and natural extracts containing it, in particular green tea extracts; anthocyanins; phenol acids, stilbenes; scavengers of mono- or polycyclic aromatic compounds tannins such as ellagic acid and indole derivatives and / or scavengers of heavy metals such as EDTA, anti-radical active agents such as vitamin E and its derivatives such as tocopheryl acetate; bioflavonoids; coenzyme Q10 or ubiquinone.
  • agents known as antipollution agents in particular ozone scavengers, for example vitamin C and its derivatives including ascorbyl glucoside; phenols and polyphenols, in particular tannins, ellagic
  • soothing agents that can be used in the composition according to the invention, mention may be made of: pentacyclic triterpenes, ursolic acid and its salts, oleanolic acid and its salts, betulinic acid and its salts, and salts of the acid salicylic acid and in particular zinc salicylate, bisabolol, allantoin, omega 3 unsaturated oils, cortisone, hydrocortisone, indomethacin and beta-methasone, anti-inflammatory active agents, and in particular those described in the application FR2847267 , in particular the extract of Pueraria lobata root marketed under the name Inhipase TM by BASF Beauty Care Solutions France SAS, extracts of Theobroma cacao.
  • the active ingredients acting on the microcirculation may be chosen from flavonoids, ruscogenins, nicotinates, essential oils.
  • the photoprotective active ingredients or UVA and / or UVB filters that can be used according to the present invention are in particular UV-A and / or UV-B active photoprotective agents, such as para-aminobenzoic acid derivatives.
  • UV-A and / or UV-B active photoprotective agents such as para-aminobenzoic acid derivatives.
  • UVINUL P25 TM marketed by BASF
  • salicylic derivatives in particular homosalate alone or in combination with titanium oxides
  • dibenzoylmethane derivatives cinnamic derivatives, diphenylacrylate derivatives, including Octocrylene sold in particular under the trade name UVINUL N539 TM by BASF
  • benzylidene camphor derivatives benzimidazole derivatives
  • triazine derivatives of which Ethylhexyl triazone sold in
  • Assets providing a well-being effect such as those mimicking the effects of beta-endorphins to improve skin barrier function, such as those cited in US Patent Application 2006069032; the stimulating assets the synthesis of beta-endorphins such as an extract of the plant Tephrosia purpurea.
  • the slimming active agents may be chosen especially from: lipoprotein Iipase inhibiting agents such as those described in patent US2003086949 (Coletica) and in particular a vine extract from Peru (Uncaria tomentosa); draining active ingredients, including hesperitin laurate (Flavagrum TM), or quercitin caprylate (Flavenger TM); inhibitors of the phosphodiesterase enzyme, activating agents of adenylate cyclase, cAMP and / or active agents capable of entrapping spermine and / or spermidine.
  • lipoprotein Iipase inhibiting agents such as those described in patent US2003086949 (Coletica) and in particular a vine extract from Peru (Uncaria tomentosa)
  • draining active ingredients including hesperitin laurate (Flavagrum TM), or quercitin caprylate (Flavenger TM)
  • inhibitors of the phosphodiesterase enzyme activating agents of a
  • Such active ingredients are a Coleus Forskohlii root extract, an extract of cecropia obtusa, Uva lactuca, caffeine, forskolin, theophylline, theobromine and / or their derivatives, a product of hydrolyzed carrageenan kappa called Slimexcess TM marketed by BASF Beauty Care Solutions France SAS and / or their mixtures.
  • the cosmetic composition according to the present invention does not contain a depigmenting agent and / or antityrosinase and / or inhibiting melanogenesis.
  • topically acceptable and active cosmetic ingredients are known to those skilled in the art for improving the health and / or physical appearance of the skin and / or mucous membranes and / or scalp.
  • the person skilled in the art knows how to formulate the cosmetic compositions to obtain the best effects.
  • the compounds described in the present invention can have a synergistic effect when combined with each other. These combinations are also covered by the present invention.
  • CTFA Cosmetic Ingredient Handbook, Second Edition (1992) describes various cosmetic and pharmaceutical ingredients commonly used in the cosmetics industry, which are particularly suitable for topical use.
  • these classes of ingredients include, but are not limited to, the following: abrasive, absorbent, aesthetic compound such as perfumes; pigments; dyes; essential oils, astringents such as clove oil, menthol, camphor, eucalyptus oil, eugenol, menthyl lactate, hamelite distillate; anti-acne agents; anti-flocculants; antifoam agents; antimicrobial agents such as iodopropyl butylcarbamate; antioxidants such as ascorbic acid; binders; biological additives; buffer agents; blowing agents; chelating agents; additives; biocidal agents; denaturants; thickeners; and vitamins; film forming materials; polymers; opacifying agents; pH adjusters; reducing agents; conditioning agents such as humectants, and derivatives or equivalents thereof.
  • the Tapirira guyanensis extract according to the invention preferably obtained by aqueous extraction, is dissolved in a particularly polar solvent, such as water, an alcohol, a polyol, a polyol. glycol, or a mixture thereof, preferentially a glycolic mixture, more preferably containing a glycol selected from caprylyl glycol, hexylene glycol and mixtures thereof.
  • a particularly polar solvent such as water, an alcohol, a polyol, a polyol. glycol, or a mixture thereof, preferentially a glycolic mixture, more preferably containing a glycol selected from caprylyl glycol, hexylene glycol and mixtures thereof.
  • the extract according to the invention is solubilized in an aqueous solution comprising hexylene glycol, caprylyl glycol or their mixture, advantageously hexylene glycol and caprylyl glycol.
  • the aqueous solution in which the Tapirira guyanensis extract is solubilized according to the invention comprises hexylene glycol, in particular between 0.1 and 10% by weight of hexylene glycol relative to the total weight of the aqueous solution. more particularly between 1 and 5% by weight of hexylene glycol relative to the total weight of the aqueous solution.
  • the aqueous solution in which the Tapirira guyanensis extract is solubilized according to the invention comprises caprylyl glycol, in particular between 0.01 and 5% by weight of caprylyl glycol relative to the total weight of the aqueous solution, plus particularly between 0.1 and 1% by weight of caprylyl glycol relative to the total weight of the aqueous solution.
  • the aqueous solution in which the Tapirira guyanensis extract is solubilized according to the invention comprises hexylene glycol and caprylyl glycol, in particular in the proportions indicated above.
  • the extract of Tapirira guyanensis according to the invention is solubilized in the aqueous solution in a content of between 0.1 and 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the aqueous solution, in particular comprised between 0.5 and 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the aqueous solution.
  • this aqueous solution comprises hexylene glycol and caprylyl glycol, advantageously in the proportions indicated above for these components.
  • the aqueous solution in which the extract according to the invention is solubilized may comprise a thickening and / or structuring agent such as xanthan gum, advantageously in a content between 0.01 and 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the aqueous solution, in particular between 0.1 and 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the aqueous solution.
  • a thickening and / or structuring agent such as xanthan gum
  • the present invention further relates to a method of cosmetic care characterized in that it comprises the application to at least one area concerned of healthy skin and / or healthy mucosa and / or healthy scalp, in particular of a being of an extract of Tapirira guyanensis or a cosmetic composition comprising such an extract for stimulating the expression of perlecane and / or dystroglycan and / or collagen XVIII and / or VE-cadherin and / or claudin-5, in particular in the extracellular matrix and / or in the basal epithelial membrane, in particular the dermal-epidermal junction.
  • this cosmetic care method is for preventing and / or combating the aging of the skin and / or the mucous membranes and / or the scalp, particularly chronobiological and / or photobiological, to prevent and / or fight against the decrease in homeostasis.
  • the skin and / or the mucous membranes and / or the scalp and / or to improve it in particular in the epidermis, to strengthen the basal epithelial membrane of the skin and / or the mucous membranes and / or the scalp, preferentially the dermal-epidermal junction, to improve the proliferation and / or differentiation of keratinocytes, especially at the epidermal level, in particular related to the aging of the skin and / or the mucous membranes and / or the scalp, to prevent and / or fight against a decrease of the vascularization of the skin and / or the mucous membranes and / or the scalp and / or to improve it, in particular to improve the structure of the capillaries of the skin and / or the mucous membranes and / or cu particularly hairy scalp, to improve the morphogenesis of the epithelium, the skin and / or the mucous membranes and / or the scalp preferentially the epidermis, for restoring the epit
  • the present invention also relates to a cosmetic composition, advantageously intended for topical application, characterized in that it comprises an extract of Tapirira guyanensis, in particular as defined above, and a cosmetic excipient which is advantageously topically acceptable.
  • the cosmetic composition is as defined above.
  • the subject of the present invention is also a culture medium for cells, in particular endothelial cells and / or cultured keratinocytes, and / or three-dimensional models containing them, such as models of epidermis, capillaries, vessels or reconstructed skins, comprising the extract of Tapirira guyanensis according to the invention, in particular as defined above, and advantageously a compound chosen from fetal calf serum, pituitary extract, or a hormone, an amino acid, a sugar, a growth factor, a recombinant protein and mixtures thereof.
  • the extract according to the invention is added directly to the culture medium according to the invention during the manufacture of said medium.
  • the extract according to the invention is added extemporaneously in the culture medium according to the invention.
  • the extract according to the invention is added extemporaneously in combination with a compound selected from a group consisting of fetal bovine serum, pituitary extract, a hormone, an amino acid, a sugar, a growth factor, a recombinant protein or their mixtures.
  • the culture medium according to the invention may be intended for culturing keratinocytes or endothelial cells for medical, pharmaceutical and dermatological applications.
  • Tapirira guyanensis extract is likely to facilitate and / or shorten the culture steps, and / or to improve the quality of the cultures and cellular construction (cellular carpet, pseudoepidermis, reconstructed epithelia).
  • the culture medium according to the invention comprises an extract of Tapirira guyanensis at a concentration of between 1.10 -4 and 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the culture medium, preferably between 0.001 and 0.1%. by weight relative to the total weight of the culture medium.
  • the subject of the present invention is therefore the use of the Tapirira guyanensis extract according to the invention in a culture medium and / or culture medium comprising the extract for stimulating the expression of perlecane and / or dystroglycan and / or VE-cadherin and / or claudin-5 and / or collagen XVIII, in particular in the extracellular matrix and / or in the basal epithelial membrane, in particular the dermal-epidermal junction, preferentially in cells in culture, in particular chosen from endothelial cells and keratinocytes.
  • each example has a general scope.
  • the temperature is in degrees Celsius
  • the pressure is the atmospheric pressure
  • FIG. 1A shows the effect of an extract of Tapirira guyanensis according to the invention on the thickness of the epidermis (Example 5).
  • FIG. 1A represents a section observed in microscopy of the untreated reconstructed skin model, the figure of the same model treated with an extract of Tapirira guyanensis at 0.05% (w / w) and FIG. model treated with 0.1% (w / w) Tapirira guyanensis extract.
  • Fig. 2 shows the effect of an extract of Tapirira guyanensis according to the invention on the protein expression of VE-cadherin (Fig. 2A and B) and claudin-5 (Fig. 2C and D) at the level of cellular junctions of human microvascular endothelial cells after immunostaining (A. and C. Untreated cells B. and D. Cells treated with Tapirira guyanensis extract according to the invention at 0.8%) (Example 6).
  • Example 1 Preparation of extract of Tapirira auvanensis according to the invention by aqueous extraction.
  • Tapirira guyanensis The leaves of Tapirira guyanensis were ground and then macerated in water at 1% (w / w) at a temperature preferably between 0 and 20 ° C, preferably at 4 ° C.
  • the duration of maceration is advantageously between 30 minutes and
  • the solution is centrifuged, preferably for 10 min at 8000 RPM and the supernatant is recovered.
  • the supernatant is ultrafiltered on filters at different cut-off points and in particular at 0.22 ⁇ .
  • the extract thus obtained can be used directly in liquid form.
  • This extract was tested at different assays in the final culture medium in the following Examples 2 to 6.
  • This extract can also be formulated in the form of a cosmetic ingredient as exemplified7.
  • the solution is centrifuged, preferably for 10 min at 8000 RPM and the supernatant is recovered.
  • the supernatant is ultrafiltered on filters at different cut-off points and in particular at 0.45 ⁇ .
  • the extract thus obtained is then dried in particular on a maltodextrin-type support and then resolubilized in 1% (w / w) water.
  • Example 2 Effect of an extract of Tapirra auvanensis according to the invention on the protein expression of perlecane in keratinocytes.
  • FSA fluoroimmunoassay
  • Example lb The cells are then cultured for 48 hours or with the extract obtained in Example lb) tested at different dosages in percent by weight in the final culture medium or without the so-called control extract.
  • the cells are then washed in phosphate buffered saline (PBS) before being fixed, permeabilized, and unmasked.
  • PBS phosphate buffered saline
  • BSA bovine serum albumin
  • the secondary antibody bound to FITC fluorocrome fluorescein isothiocyanate
  • Table 1 Percent protein expression of perlecane in keratinocytes of donors aged 30, 50 and 61 years depending on the dose of extract used.
  • the extract according to the invention has induced a significant increase in the protein expression of perlecane in keratinocytes. This increase in protein expression has been observed regardless of the age of the donor.
  • the extract according to the invention thus induces an improvement in the structural cohesion of the epithelium, preferentially the epidermis.
  • Example 3 Effect of an extract of Tapirira uvanensis according to the invention on the protein expression of perlecane in endothelial cells.
  • the technique is the same as in Example 2 except that it is performed on endothelial cells extracted from abdominal skin biopsy of donors aged 38 or 28 years.
  • n 6; the extract of Tapirira guyanensis is obtained according to Example 1b) tested at different dosages in percent by weight in the final culture medium.
  • Tapirira guyanensis extract 0.1% 145.7 6.5
  • Tapirira guyanensis extract 0.2% 147.2 11.3
  • Tapirira guyanensis extract 0.4% 160.4 11.1
  • the extract according to the invention significantly increased the protein expression of perlecane in endothelial cells at the doses tested, which demonstrates its properties to improve microvascular structural cohesion. This increase was observed regardless of the age of the donors.
  • Example 4 Effect of an extract of Tapirira auvanensis according to the invention on the protein expression of dvstroqlvcane in keratinocytes.
  • the technique is the same as in Example 2 except that the antigen of interest is dystroglycan and the antibody used is an anti-dystroglycan.
  • the extract according to the invention significantly increased the protein expression of dystroglycan in keratinocytes at the doses tested.
  • the extract according to the invention therefore induces an improvement in the structural cohesion of the epithelium, preferably the epidermis.
  • An aqueous extract of Tapirira guyanensis prepared according to Example 1b) was tested at final concentrations of 0.05% and 0.1% by weight relative to the total weight of the culture medium according to the invention, for its effect on the morphogenesis of the epidermis.
  • the extract according to the invention was tested on a reconstructed skin model of the Mimeskin® type, known to those skilled in the art.
  • the skin model is obtained by culturing fibroblasts for 35 days, at which stage epidermal differentiation occurs and fibroblasts differentiate into keratinocytes. After 35 days of culture, the cells were rinsed with Phosphate Buffer Saline (PBS) buffer containing calcium, magnesium and antibiotics and then fixed in cold methanol for 10 minutes.
  • PBS Phosphate Buffer Saline
  • Example 6 Effect of an extract of Tapirira auvanensis according to the invention on the protein expression of VE-cadherin and claudin-5 at the cellular junctions of human microvascular endothelial cells.
  • Microvascular endothelial cells from a biopsy of blood from a 50-year-old adult donor were seeded in a medium complete culture in the presence of 5% FBS (Fetal Bovine Serum) for 10 days.
  • FBS Fetal Bovine Serum
  • the cells When the cells reached subconfluency, the confluence corresponding to the cellular stage for which 100% of the cultured cells adhere to each other, the cells were inoculated into a culture chamber containing an EGM2-MV culture medium (cell culture medium endothelial) containing 1% FBS (by weight relative to the total weight of the culture medium) for 48 hours, in the presence or absence of an extract of Tapirira guyanensis according to the invention (prepared according to Example 1b) at 0, 8% by weight relative to the weight of the culture medium.
  • EGM2-MV culture medium cell culture medium endothelial
  • FBS by weight relative to the total weight of the culture medium
  • the cells were then washed in Phosphate Saline Buffer buffer and then fixed in ice-cold methanol for 10 min.
  • An anti-VE-cadherin antibody was added to the culture medium to effect immunolabeling.
  • the slides were then incubated with a second antibody directly coupled to an anti-claudin-5 antibody.
  • the results of confocal microscopy are shown in FIG. 2.
  • the results show that the extract of Tapirira guyanensis according to the invention increases the protein expression of VE-cadherin and claudin-5 at intercellular junctions.
  • the extract of Tapirira guyanensis therefore promotes cell adhesion at the level of the dermal-epidermal junction.
  • Example 7 composition comprising the extract according to the present invention to be incorporated in a cosmetic composition (cosmetic ingredient ')
  • Cosmetic ingredient ' The extract of Tapirira guyanensis is obtained according to Example 1b) and is mixed with the other ingredients of the following formulation:
  • Example 8 compositions containing the extract of Tapirira auvanensis according to the invention.
  • the “products of the invention” represent an extract of Tapirira guyanensis and preferably obtained according to Example 1b).
  • the products of the invention may also be in the form of liposomes containing 5% of soy lecithin and incorporating a quaternized soy solution (600 g final) obtained according to the following embodiment:
  • the Tapirira guyanensis extract is that described in Example 1b) followed by a sterilization and drying step.

Abstract

The present invention concerns the cosmetic use, by topical administration, of an extract of Tapirira guianensis, for stimulating the expression of perlecan and/or dystroglycan and/or VE-cadherin and/or claudin-5, in particular in the extracellular matrix and/or in the epithelial basement membrane, in particular the dermoepidermal junction. It also concerns a method of cosmetic treatment comprising the application onto at least one area in question of healthy skin and/or healthy mucosa and/or healthy scalp of an extract of Tapirira guianensis or of a cosmetic composition comprising such an extract for stimulating the expression of perlecan and dystroglycan and/or VE-cadherin and/or claudin-5, in particular in the extracellular matrix and/or in the epithelial basement membrane, in particular the dermoepidermal junction. It also concerns a cosmetic composition comprising an extract of Tapirira guianensis and a topically acceptable cosmetic carrier. It finally concerns an extract of Tapirira guianensis or a dermatological composition containing an extract of Tapirira guianensis and a dermatologically acceptable carrier for use, by topical administration, in the treatment and/or prevention of rosacea, des telangiectasias, and/or pathologies of the oral and/or ocular mucosa.

Description

TITRE : UTILISATION COSMETIQUE OU DERMATOLOGIQUE D'UN EXTRAIT DE TAPIRIRA GUYANENSIS  TITLE: COSMETIC OR DERMATOLOGICAL USE OF A TAPIRIRA GUYANENSIS EXTRACT
L'invention concerne l'utilisation cosmétique ou dermatologique par voie topique d'un extrait de Tapirira guyanensis, pour stimuler l'expression du perlécane et/ou du dystroglycane et/ou du collagène XVIII et/ou de la VE- cadhérine et/ou de la claudine-5, en particulier dans la matrice extracellulaire et/ou dans la membrane basale épithéliale, notamment la jonction dermo-épidermique et/ou la composition cosmétique qui en contient. The invention relates to the topical cosmetic or dermatological use of an extract of Tapirira guyanensis, to stimulate the expression of perlecane and / or dystroglycan and / or collagen XVIII and / or VE-cadherin and / or claudin-5, in particular in the extracellular matrix and / or in the basal epithelial membrane, in particular the dermal-epidermal junction and / or the cosmetic composition containing it.
Parmi les protéoglycannes à héparane sulfate (HSPGs) des lames basales, le perlécane présente un rôle majeur dans la morphogénèse de l'épithélium, notamment l'épiderme mais également dans la survie, la prolifération et la différenciation des kératinocytes et des cellules endothéliales, notamment cutanées. Celui-ci régule ces processus en contrôlant la biodisponibilité des facteurs de croissance. Among the heparan sulfate proteoglycans (HSPGs) of the basal laminae, perlecane plays a major role in the morphogenesis of the epithelium, in particular the epidermis but also in the survival, proliferation and differentiation of keratinocytes and endothelial cells, in particular skin. It regulates these processes by controlling the bioavailability of growth factors.
Le dystroglycane est une glycoprotéine récepteur potentiel du perlécane. Le perlécane et le dystroglycane sont exprimés sur les membranes basales, structures ubiquitaires localisées au niveau de différents tissus tels que les épithéliums et endothéliums mais également au niveau de différents types cellulaires tels que les kératinocytes, fibroblastes, et cellules endothéliales. Ils interagissent ensemble et contribuent à assurer la solidité et la stabilité de la structure de la peau, des muqueuses et du cuir chevelu, en particulier l'épithélium, et notamment l'épiderme et le derme. Or au cours du vieillissement notamment chronobiologique, l'expression du perlécane et du dystroglycane est diminuée de façon drastique. En particulier, l'expression du perlécane diminue fortement au niveau de la jonction dermo-épidermique et des capillaires dermiques avec l'âge. Cette diminution n'est pas due à une dégradation de la protéine mais à une diminution de son expression, et tout particulièrement de sa régulation transcriptionnelle, par les kératinocytes et les cellules endothéliales. Par ailleurs, les inventeurs ont constaté qu'il existe une corrélation entre le défaut de synthèse du perlécane et l'épaisseur de la peau et/ou des muqueuses et/ou du cuir chevelu, en particulier de l'épithélium, préférentiellement l'épiderme. L'expression du perlécane et du dystroglycane est donc d'une grande importance dans l'homéostasie de la peau et/ou des muqueuses et/ou du cuir chevelu et dans le maintien de leur fermeté et de leur densité, qui sont dégradés lors du vieillissement notamment chronobiologique. Dystroglycan is a potential glycoprotein receptor for perlecane. Perlecane and dystroglycan are expressed on basement membranes, ubiquitous structures located in different tissues such as epithelia and endotheliums but also in different cell types such as keratinocytes, fibroblasts, and endothelial cells. They interact together and help to ensure the strength and stability of the structure of the skin, mucous membranes and scalp, especially the epithelium, especially the epidermis and the dermis. During aging, particularly chronobiological, the expression of perlecane and dystroglycan is drastically reduced. In particular, the expression of perlecane strongly decreases at the level of the dermo-epidermal junction and dermal capillaries with age. This decrease is not due to a degradation of the protein but to a decrease in its expression, and particularly its transcriptional regulation, by keratinocytes and endothelial cells. Furthermore, the inventors have found that there is a correlation between the lack of synthesis of perlecane and the thickness of the skin and / or the mucous membranes and / or the scalp, in particular the epithelium, preferentially the epidermis. . The expression of perlecane and dystroglycan is therefore of great importance in the homeostasis of the skin and / or mucous membranes and / or scalp and in the maintenance of their firmness and density, which are degraded during especially chronobiological aging.
Le collagène est une protéine constitutive de la matrice extra-cellulaire (MEC) présente en grande quantité dans les tissus des vertébrés. Il s'agit d'une large famille comprenant 29 types différents, parmi lesquels le collagène XVIII. Ce dernier est connu pour se lier aux protéoglycannes à héparane sulfate (HSPGs), et pourrait par conséquent participer à la morphogénèse de l'épithélium, en particulier de l'épiderme, en particulier encore au niveau des muqueuses.  Collagen is a constitutive protein of the extracellular matrix (ECM) present in large quantities in vertebrate tissues. It is a large family comprising 29 different types, among which collagen XVIII. The latter is known to bind to proteoglycans with heparan sulfate (HSPGs), and could therefore participate in the morphogenesis of the epithelium, especially the epidermis, particularly in the mucous membranes.
Les cadhérines sont une famille de glycoprotéines, dont la VE-cadhérine, exprimée à la surface des cellules endothéliales notamment. La VE- cadhérine joue un rôle important dans l'adhésion cellulaire au sein des tissus, donc au niveau des jonctions intercellulaires.  Cadherins are a family of glycoproteins, including VE-cadherin, expressed on the surface of endothelial cells in particular. VE-cadherin plays an important role in cell adhesion within tissues, thus at intercellular junctions.
De même, les claudines sont des protéines transmembranaires constitutives des jonctions dites serrées, jouant un rôle dans l'adhésion cellulaire. Ces 2 familles de protéines sont nécessaires à la survie des cellules et ont un effet sur la rétention des fluides et donc sur la cellulite et les poches périorbitaires. De façon surprenante les inventeurs ont découvert qu'un extrait de Tapirira guyanensis stimule l'expression des HSPGs et glycoprotéines des lames basales, et plus particulièrement du perlécane et du dystroglycane, en particulier dans la matrice extracellulaire et/ou dans la membrane basale épithéliale, notamment la jonction dermo-épidermique, plus particulièrement dans les kératinocytes et/ou les cellules endothéliales de la peau et/ou des muqueuses et/ou du cuir chevelu, et préférentiel lement cutanées. Le fait de cibler à la fois les kératinocytes et les cellules endothéliales notamment cutanées permet d'avoir un double effet : 1) sur l'amélioration de la voie microvasculaire pour nourrir la peau, les muqueuses et/ou le cuir chevelu et 2) sur l'amélioration du teint en terme notamment de luminosité. Likewise, claudines are transmembrane proteins constituting so-called tight junctions, playing a role in cell adhesion. These two families of proteins are necessary for the survival of cells and have an effect on the retention of fluids and thus on cellulitis and periorbital pockets. Surprisingly, the inventors have discovered that an extract of Tapirira guyanensis stimulates the expression of HSPGs and glycoproteins of basal laminae, and more particularly of perlecane and dystroglycan, in particular in the extracellular matrix and / or in the basement epithelial membrane, especially the dermal-epidermal junction, more particularly in keratinocytes and / or endothelial cells of the skin and / or mucous membranes and / or scalp, and preferably cutaneous skin. Targeting both keratinocytes and endothelial cells, especially cutaneous cells, has a double effect: 1) on the improvement of the microvascular pathway to nourish the skin, the mucous membranes and / or the scalp and 2) on improving the complexion in terms of brightness.
Le fait de cibler non seulement le perlécane mais aussi le dystroglycane permet en outre d'agir de manière complète sur la voie d'expression et d'activité du perlécane.  Targeting not only perlecane but also dystroglycan also makes it possible to act completely on the perlecane expression and activity pathway.
Les inventeurs ont aussi découvert que l'extrait de Tapirira guyanensis augmentait l'expression de la VE-cadhérine et de la claudine-5, en particulier au niveau de la jonction dermo-épidermique, plus particulièrement dans les kératinocytes et/ou les cellules endothéliales, et encore plus particulièrement dans les cellules endothéliales, de la peau et/ou des muqueuses et/ou du cuir chevelu, et préférentiellement cutanées. Cet extrait permet donc de diminuer, supprimer ou prévenir la rétention des fluides et donc l'apparition de la cellulite et des poches périorbitaires. Enfin, les inventeurs ont découvert que l'extrait de Tapirira guyanensis augmentait l'expression du collagène XVIII. The inventors have also discovered that Tapirira guyanensis extract increases the expression of VE-cadherin and claudin-5, in particular at the level of the dermal-epidermal junction, more particularly in keratinocytes and / or endothelial cells. , and even more particularly in endothelial cells, skin and / or mucous and / or scalp, and preferably cutaneous. This extract therefore makes it possible to reduce, eliminate or prevent the retention of fluids and thus the appearance of cellulitis and periorbital pockets. Finally, the inventors discovered that Tapirira guyanensis extract increased the expression of collagen XVIII.
Appartenant à l'ordre des Sapindales et à la famille des Anacardiaceae, le Tapirira guyanensis est un arbre qui pousse généralement en Amérique du Sud, en particulier en Amazonie et notamment en Guyane Française. Belonging to the order Sapindales and the family Anacardiaceae, Tapirira guyanensis is a tree that grows generally in South America, especially in the Amazon and especially in French Guiana.
Certaines parties de l'arbre ont été décrites dans le cadre de traitements spécifiques dans la pharmacopée locale. Ainsi il est utilisé couramment comme anti-infectieux administré par voie orale. De même l'utilisation de son écorce sur les muqueuses buccales et vaginales dans des applications pharmaceutiques spécifiques a déjà été décrite, notamment en macérât froid ou en décoction administré en bain de bouche hémostatique pour lutter contre les diarrhées et les vomissements ou administré en application sur les muqueuses vaginales pour empêcher les hémorragies et les infections vaginales consécutivement à un accouchement. Finement râpée et pressée, l'écorce est également utilisée en gargarisme contre les candidoses buccale bénigne (Etude phytochimique de plantes amazoniennes d'activité antiplasmodiale, Vincent ROUMY, juillet 2007). Aucune des propriétés décrites dans l'art antérieur ne permettait toutefois de présager de ses avantages dans une composition cosmétique ni de ses propriétés de stimulation de l'expression du perlécane et/ou du dystroglycane et/ou de la VE-cadhérine et/ou de la claudine-5 et/ou du collagène XVIII. La présente invention concerne donc l'utilisation cosmétique ou dermatologique par voie topique d'un extrait de Tapirira guyanensis, pour stimuler l'expression du perlécane et/ou du dystroglycane et/ou de la VE- cadhérine et/ou de la claudine-5 et/ou du collagène XVIII, en particulier dans la matrice extracellulaire et/ou dans la membrane basale épithéliale, notamment la jonction dermo-épidermique. Some parts of the tree have been described as part of specific treatments in the local pharmacopoeia. Thus it is commonly used as an anti-infective administered orally. Likewise, the use of its bark on the oral and vaginal mucosa in specific pharmaceutical applications has already been described, in particular in cold macerate or decoction administered in a haemostatic mouthwash for the control of diarrhea and vomiting or administered as an application on Vaginal mucosa to prevent bleeding and vaginal infections following childbirth. Finely grated and pressed, the bark is also used as a gargle against benign oral candidiasis (Phytochemical study of Amazonian plants with antiplasmodial activity, Vincent ROUMY, July 2007). None of the properties described in the prior art, however, allowed to predict its advantages in a cosmetic composition or its stimulating properties of the expression of perlecane and / or dystroglycan and / or VE-cadherin and / or claudin-5 and / or collagen XVIII. The present invention therefore relates to the topical cosmetic or dermatological use of an extract of Tapirira guyanensis, to stimulate the expression of perlecane and / or dystroglycan and / or VE-cadherin and / or claudin-5. and / or collagen XVIII, especially in the extracellular matrix and / or in the basal epithelial membrane, in particular the dermal-epidermal junction.
De manière préférentielle, l'utilisation selon l'invention est cosmétique et en application topique sur au moins une zone concernée de la peau saine et/ou d'une muqueuse saine et/ou du cuir chevelu sain, en particulier d'un être humain.  Preferably, the use according to the invention is cosmetic and applied topically to at least one relevant area of healthy skin and / or healthy mucosa and / or healthy scalp, in particular of a human being. .
De manière préférentielle, l'extrait de Tapirira guyanensis est obtenu à partir des parties aériennes, en particulier des feuilles, préférentiellement obtenu par extraction aqueuse.  Preferably, the extract of Tapirira guyanensis is obtained from the aerial parts, in particular leaves, preferably obtained by aqueous extraction.
De manière préférentielle, l'utilisation de Tapirira guyanensis stimule l'expression du perlécane et/ou du dystroglycane dans les kératinocytes et/ou les cellules endothéliales de la peau et/ou des muqueuses et/ou du cuir chevelu, préférentiellement les cellules endothéliales de la peau. Preferably, the use of Tapirira guyanensis stimulates the expression of perlecane and / or dystroglycan in the keratinocytes and / or endothelial cells of the skin and / or mucous membranes and / or the scalp, preferentially the endothelial cells of the skin. the skin.
La présente invention concerne également une composition cosmétique comprenant un extrait de Tapirira guyanensis et un excipient cosmétique topiquement acceptable. The present invention also relates to a cosmetic composition comprising an extract of Tapirira guyanensis and a topically acceptable cosmetic excipient.
Au sens de la présente invention, on entend par « utilisation et/ou composition cosmétique », une utilisation et/ou composition non pharmaceutique, c'est-à-dire qui n'est pas destinée à un usage thérapeutique et qui vise à améliorer l'esthétique et/ou le confort et qui est effectuée/appliquée sur une partie du corps saine, en particulier la muqueuse saine, la peau saine et/ou le cuir chevelu sain. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "use and / or cosmetic composition" means a non-pharmaceutical use and / or composition, that is to say which is not intended for a therapeutic use and which is intended to improve aesthetics and / or comfort and that is performed / applied on a healthy body part, especially healthy mucosa, healthy skin and / or healthy scalp.
Au sens de la présente invention on entend par «peau saine», «muqueuse saine» ou «cuir chevelu sain», une zone de peau, de muqueuse ou de cuir chevelu sur laquelle est appliquée l'extrait selon l'invention et dite « non pathologique » par un dermatologue, c'est à dire ne présentant pas d'infection, de maladie ou d'affection cutanée telle que candidose, impétigo, psoriasis, eczéma, acné ou dermatite, ou de plaies ou de blessures. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "healthy skin", "healthy mucosa" or "healthy scalp" means an area of skin, mucosa or scalp on which the extract according to the invention is applied and called " non-pathological "by a dermatologist, that is to say not having any infection, disease or skin condition such as candidiasis, impetigo, psoriasis, eczema, acne or dermatitis, or sores or wounds.
Au sens de la présente invention, on entend par « cosmétique et/ou dermatologique topiquement acceptable », un ingrédient adapté à une application par voie topique, non toxique, non irritant pour la peau et/ou les muqueuses, n'induisant pas de réponse allergique, qui n'est pas instable sur le plan chimique.  For the purposes of the present invention, the term "cosmetic and / or dermatological topically acceptable", an ingredient suitable for topical application, non-toxic, non-irritating to the skin and / or mucous membranes, does not induce response allergic, which is not chemically unstable.
Au sens de la présente invention, on entend par « application par voie topique » d'un ingrédient, l'application locale directe et/ou la vaporisation de l'ingrédient sur la surface de la peau et/ou des muqueuses et/ou du cuir chevelu.  For the purposes of the present invention, the term "topical application" of an ingredient, the direct local application and / or the vaporization of the ingredient on the surface of the skin and / or mucous membranes and / or the scalp.
Selon l'invention, on désigne par « muqueuse(s) », la muqueuse oculaire, la muqueuse vaginale, la muqueuse uro-génitale, la muqueuse anale, la muqueuse nasale et/ou la muqueuse buccale, notamment buccale, labiale et/ou la muqueuse gingivale, préférentiellement, les muqueuses oculaires et/ou buccales, et encore préférentiellement, la muqueuse labiale et/ou oculaire.  According to the invention, the term "mucosa (s)" refers to the ocular mucosa, the vaginal mucosa, the urogenital mucosa, the anal mucosa, the nasal mucosa and / or the oral mucosa, in particular the oral, labial and / or the gingival mucosa, preferably the ocular and / or oral mucosa, and even more preferentially, the labial and / or ocular mucosa.
L'extrait végétal de Tapirira guyanensis selon l'invention peut être extrait à partir de l'ensemble de la plante ou d'une ou plusieurs parties de la plante, et notamment choisie parmi la racine, la tige, l'écorce, la fleur, la graine, le germe, le fruit et/ou la feuille et leurs mélanges. L'extrait selon l'invention est préférentiellement extrait des parties supérieures de la plante, à savoir le fruit, les feuilles et les branches, et encore préférentiellement des parties aériennes c'est-à-dire des feuilles et des branches. De manière particulièrement avantageuse, l'ingrédient actif selon l'invention est un extrait de feuilles de Tapirira guyanensis. Les feuilles constituent en effet la partie de la plante qui présente l'activité maximale et leur récolte s'inscrit dans une démarche de développement durable. The plant extract of Tapirira guyanensis according to the invention may be extracted from the whole plant or from one or more parts of the plant, and in particular chosen from the root, the stem, the bark, the flower. , seed, germ, fruit and / or leaf and mixtures thereof. The extract according to the invention is preferably extracted from the upper parts of the plant, namely the fruit, the leaves and the branches, and even more preferentially aerial parts, that is to say leaves and branches. Particularly advantageously, the active ingredient according to the invention is an extract of leaves of Tapirira guyanensis. The leaves are indeed the part of the plant that presents the activity maximum and their harvest is part of a sustainable development approach.
L'extrait selon l'invention peut alors être obtenu par les méthodes d'extraction de végétaux connues dans le domaine, par exemple par macération d'au moins une partie de la plante de préférence entre 1 et 10% (p/p) dans un solvant ou un mélange de solvants, de préférence un solvant polaire protique, et avantageusement dans l'eau, un alcool, un glycol, un polyol, un mélange eau/alcool, eau/glycol ou eau/polyol (tels que l'eau en mélange avec éthanol, glycérol, butylène glycol ou autres glycols, tel que xylitol etc.) de 100/0 à 0/100 (v/v). L'extrait est préférentiellement obtenu par extraction aqueuse.  The extract according to the invention can then be obtained by plant extraction methods known in the field, for example by maceration of at least a portion of the plant, preferably between 1 and 10% (w / w) in the plant. a solvent or a mixture of solvents, preferably a protic polar solvent, and advantageously in water, an alcohol, a glycol, a polyol, a water / alcohol mixture, water / glycol or water / polyol (such as water mixed with ethanol, glycerol, butylene glycol or other glycols, such as xylitol etc.) from 100/0 to 0/100 (v / v). The extract is preferably obtained by aqueous extraction.
Au sens de la présente invention on entend par « extrait de Tapirira guyanensis obtenu par extraction aqueuse» tout extrait obtenu par extraction avec une solution aqueuse contenant plus de 60 % en poids, avantageusement au moins 70% en poids, en particulier au moins 80% en poids, plus particulièrement au moins 90% en poids, de façon particulière au moins 95% en poids, d'eau par rapport au poids total de la solution aqueuse, encore plus avantageusement ne contenant pas de butylène glycol, en particulier ne contenant pas d'alcool, plus particulièrement ne contenant que de l'eau. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "Tapirira guyanensis extract obtained by aqueous extraction" means any extract obtained by extraction with an aqueous solution containing more than 60% by weight, advantageously at least 70% by weight, in particular at least 80% by weight. by weight, more particularly at least 90% by weight, particularly at least 95% by weight, of water relative to the total weight of the aqueous solution, more advantageously not containing butylene glycol, in particular not containing alcohol, more particularly containing only water.
Selon un mode de réalisation avantageux, l'extrait selon l'invention est obtenu par extraction à une température comprise entre 0°C et 30°C, notamment par macération à froid, préférentiellement à 4°C, ou à température ambiante, c'est-à-dire entre 18 et 25°C, préférentiellement 20°C, éventuellement après une étape de séchage de la plante.  According to an advantageous embodiment, the extract according to the invention is obtained by extraction at a temperature of between 0 ° C. and 30 ° C., in particular by cold maceration, preferably at 4 ° C., or at room temperature. that is to say between 18 and 25 ° C, preferably 20 ° C, optionally after a drying step of the plant.
Selon un mode de réalisation préférentielle, l'extrait selon l'invention est obtenu par macération pendant une durée entre 30 minutes et 24 heures, préférentiellement entre 1 heure et 20 heures, encore préférentiellement entre 2 et 16 heures, en particulierl6 heures. Selon un mode de réalisation avantageux, l'extrait selon l'invention est un extrait obtenu par macération à froid et/ou à température ambiante, préférentiellement d'un mélange de tige et de feuilles, encore plus préférentiellement un extrait de feuilles, éventuellement après une étape de séchage de la plante. According to a preferred embodiment, the extract according to the invention is obtained by maceration for a period between 30 minutes and 24 hours, preferably between 1 hour and 20 hours, more preferably between 2 and 16 hours, in particular 16 hours. According to an advantageous embodiment, the extract according to the invention is an extract obtained by cold maceration and / or at ambient temperature, preferably a mixture of stem and leaves, even more preferably an extract of leaves, possibly after a drying step of the plant.
Selon un mode de réalisation particulièrement avantageux, l'extrait de Tapirira guyanensis, selon l'invention est obtenu à partir des parties aériennes et avantageusement les feuilles, avec une extraction à froid en milieu aqueux, au butylène glycol ou hydroalcoolique, préférentiellement dans de l'eau, préférentiellement menée dans les conditions suivantes :  According to a particularly advantageous embodiment, the extract of Tapirira guyanensis, according to the invention is obtained from the aerial parts and advantageously the leaves, with a cold extraction in an aqueous medium, with butylene glycol or aqueous-alcoholic, preferentially in water. water, preferably conducted under the following conditions:
- à une température préférentiellement entre 0 et 20°C, en particulier entre 0 et 10°C et avantageusement à environ 4°C et/ou at a temperature preferably between 0 and 20 ° C., in particular between 0 and 10 ° C. and advantageously at about 4 ° C. and / or
- pendant une durée comprise entre 2 et 20 heures, avantageusement entre 4 à 20 heures, préférentiellement environ lôheures. - For a period of between 2 and 20 hours, preferably between 4 to 20 hours, preferably about lôheures.
Ce procédé d'extraction présente en effet l'avantage de fournir un ingrédient actif avec une activité de stimulation maximale de l'expression des HSPGs, et en particulier du perlécane, du dystroglycane et/ou du collagène XVIII et/ou avec une activité d'augmentation de l'expression de la VE-cadhérine et/ou de la claudine-5.  This extraction method indeed has the advantage of providing an active ingredient with a maximum stimulating activity of the expression of HSPGs, and in particular of perlecane, dystroglycan and / or collagen XVIII and / or with an activity of increased expression of VE-cadherin and / or claudin-5.
L'extrait est alors solubilisé dans un véhicule aqueux, préférentiellement de l'eau. L'extrait est ensuite utilisé conformément à la présente invention, éventuellement après filtration.  The extract is then solubilized in an aqueous vehicle, preferably water. The extract is then used in accordance with the present invention, optionally after filtration.
L'extrait obtenu est ensuite de préférence centrifugé et/ou filtré et/ou distillé afin de récupérer la fraction soluble active. Il est préférentiellement filtré à un seuil de coupure de 0,45pm, encore préférentiellement 0,22 pm. Des étapes supplémentaires de décoloration et/ou désodorisation peuvent être effectuées sur l'extrait à n'importe quel stade de l'extraction et selon les techniques connues par l'Homme du métier. The extract obtained is then preferably centrifuged and / or filtered and / or distilled to recover the active soluble fraction. It is preferably filtered at a cut-off point of 0.45 μm, more preferably 0.22 μm. Additional steps of discoloration and / or deodorization may be performed on the extract at any stage of extraction and according to techniques known to those skilled in the art.
L'extrait selon l'invention peut également être ensuite concentré par évaporation du solvant, par exemple par lyophilisation ou par atomisation. De façon particulièrement avantageuse, la quantité de plante lors de l'extraction, préférentiellement les parties supérieures de la plante, avantageusement les parties aériennes, en particulier la feuille, est de 1 % en poids par rapport au poids total du mélange plante/solvant d'extraction, le solvant étant préférentiellement une solution aqueuse. En particulier la plante est broyée avant l'extraction. The extract according to the invention can also be subsequently concentrated by evaporation of the solvent, for example by lyophilization or by atomization. In a particularly advantageous manner, the quantity of plant during extraction, preferably the upper parts of the plant, advantageously the aerial parts, in particular the sheet, is 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the plant / solvent mixture. extraction, the solvent being preferably an aqueous solution. In particular the plant is crushed before extraction.
L'extrait obtenu est préférentiellement soluble et/ou dissous dans un solvant notamment polaire, tel que l'eau, un alcool, un polyol, un glycol, ou un de leurs mélanges, préférentiellement un mélange hydroglycolique, encore préférentiellement contenant un glycol choisi parmi le caprylyl glycol, le pentylène glycol, l'hexylène glycol et leurs mélanges. The extract obtained is preferably soluble and / or dissolved in a particularly polar solvent, such as water, an alcohol, a polyol, a glycol, or a mixture thereof, preferably a hydroglycolic mixture, more preferably containing a glycol chosen from caprylyl glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol and mixtures thereof.
Avantageusement l'extrait est dissous et/ou soluble dans une solution aqueuse contenant de l'hexylène glycol et/ou du pentylène glycol, en particulier contenant entre 0,1 et 10 % en poids d'hexylène glycol et/ou de pentylène glycol par rapport au poids total la solution aqueuse, plus particulièrement entre 1 et 5 % en poids d'hexylène glycol et/ou de pentylène glycol par rapport au poids total la solution aqueuse. De façon avantageuse l'extrait est soluble dans une solution aqueuse contenant du caprylyl glycol, en particulier contenant entre 0,01 et 5 % en poids de caprylyl glycol par rapport au poids total la solution aqueuse, plus particulièrement entre 0,1 et 1 % en poids de caprylyl glycol par rapport au poids total la solution aqueuse. Avantageusement la solution aqueuse ne contient pas de butylène glycol. De manière particulièrement avantageuse, l'extrait ainsi obtenu est ajusté et/ou maintenu à un pH neutre afin d'éviter l'augmentation de l'indice HI qui apparaît de manière non souhaitable avec un extrait à pH basique. Advantageously, the extract is dissolved and / or soluble in an aqueous solution containing hexylene glycol and / or pentylene glycol, in particular containing between 0.1 and 10% by weight of hexylene glycol and / or pentylene glycol by relative to the total weight of the aqueous solution, more particularly between 1 and 5% by weight of hexylene glycol and / or pentylene glycol relative to the total weight of the aqueous solution. Advantageously, the extract is soluble in an aqueous solution containing caprylyl glycol, in particular containing between 0.01 and 5% by weight of caprylyl glycol relative to the total weight of the aqueous solution, more particularly between 0.1 and 1%. by weight of caprylyl glycol relative to the total weight of the aqueous solution. Advantageously, the aqueous solution does not contain butylene glycol. Particularly advantageously, the extract thus obtained is adjusted and / or maintained at a neutral pH in order to avoid the increase in HI which appears undesirably with an extract at basic pH.
Au sens de la présente invention, on entend par « stimulation de l'expression du perlécane et/ou du dystroglycane et/ou de la VE-cadhérine et/ou de la claudine-5 et/ou du collagène XVIII », une augmentation de l'expression génique et/ou protéique respectivement du perlécane et/ou du dystroglycane et/ou de la VE-cadhérine et/ou de la claudine-5 et/ou du collagène XVIII, préférentiel lement de l'expression génique et/ou protéique du perlécane et/ou du dystroglycane et/ou de la VE-cadhérine et/ou de la claudine-5, préférentiellement encore de l'expression protéique. Cette augmentation peut être mesurée sur un modèle, comprenant au moins un type cellulaire présentant une expression du perlécane et/ou du dystroglycane et/ou de la VE-cadhérine et/ou de la claudine-5 et/ou du collagène XVIII , avantageusement les kératinocytes et/ou les cellules endothéliales, préférentiellement cutanées, au contact de l'extrait de Tapirira guyanensis selon l'invention et se traduit par une augmentation de l'expression génique et/ou protéique respective du perlécane et/ou du dystroglycane égale ou supérieure à 10%, avantageusement égale ou supérieure à 20%, par rapport au niveau d'expression génique et/ou protéique dans un modèle témoin ou contrôle, c'est-à-dire sans mise au contact de l'extrait de Tapirira guyanensis selon l'invention. L'augmentation de cette expression est préférentiellement protéique. De tels modèles sont décrits dans les exemples. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "stimulation of the expression of perlecane and / or dystroglycan and / or VE-cadherin and / or claudin-5 and / or collagen XVIII" means an increase of the gene and / or protein expression respectively of perlecane and / or dystroglycan and / or VE-cadherin and / or claudin-5 and / or collagen XVIII, preferentially of the gene and / or protein expression perlecane and / or dystroglycan and / or VE-cadherin and / or claudin-5, more preferably protein expression. This increase can be measured on a model, comprising at least one cell type having an expression of perlecane and / or dystroglycan and / or VE-cadherin and / or claudin-5 and / or collagen XVIII, advantageously the keratinocytes and / or endothelial cells, preferably cutaneous, in contact with the extract of Tapirira guyanensis according to the invention and results in an increase in the respective gene and / or protein expression of perlecane and / or dystroglycan equal or greater at 10%, advantageously equal to or greater than 20%, relative to the level of gene and / or protein expression in a control or control model, that is to say without contacting the extract of Tapirira guyanensis according to the invention. The increase of this expression is preferentially protein. Such models are described in the examples.
Avantageusement l'utilisation selon la présente invention est pour prévenir et/ou lutter contre le vieillissement de la peau et/ou des muqueuses et/ou du cuir chevelu notamment chronobiologique et/ou photobiologique, pour prévenir et/ou lutter contre la diminution de l'homéostasie de la peau et/ou des muqueuses et/ou du cuir chevelu et/ou pour l'améliorer, en particulier dans l'épiderme, pour renforcer la membrane basale épithéliale de la peau et/ou des muqueuses et/ou du cuir chevelu, préférentiellement la jonction dermo-épidermique, pour améliorer la prolifération et/ou la différenciation des kératinocytes, notamment au niveau épidermique, en particulier lié au vieillissement de la peau et/ou des muqueuses et/ou du cuir chevelu, pour prévenir et/ou lutter contre une diminution de la vascularisation de la peau et/ou des muqueuses et/ou du cuir chevelu et/ou pour l'améliorer, en particulier pour améliorer la structure des capillaires de la peau et/ou des muqueuses et/ou du cuir chevelu notamment cutanés, pour améliorer la morphogenèse de l'épithélium, de la peau et/ou des muqueuses et/ou du cuir chevelu préférentiellement l'épiderme, pour restaurer l'architecture épithéliale de la peau et/ou des muqueuses et/ou du cuir chevelu, préférentiellement épidermique, en particulier des peaux et/ou des muqueuses et/ou du cuir chevelu ayant subi un vieillissement notamment chronobiologique, pour améliorer le teint de la peau et/ou des muqueuses, notamment l'homogénéiser, pour améliorer la fermeté et/ou la densité de la peau et/ou des muqueuses et/ou du cuir chevelu, et/ou pour lutter contre la diminution de l'épaisseur de l'épithélium de la peau et/ou des muqueuses et/ou du cuir chevelu, préférentiellement l'épiderme, et/ou pour augmenter l'épaisseur de l'épithélium de la peau et/ou des muqueuses et/ou du cuir chevelu, préférentiellement l'épiderme et/ou pour le traitement ou la prévention des gerçures et/ou pour lutter contre, traiter et/ou prévenir la rétention d'eau et/ou la cellulite et/ou les poches périorbitaires et/ou pour augmenter et/ou maintenir l'adhésion cellulaire. Dans un mode de réalisation particulier, l'utilisation selon la présente invention a pour but d'améliorer le teint de la peau, avantageusement par élimination des rougeurs et/ou par homogénéisation du teint et/ou en lui donnant un aspect lumineux, éclatant, en bonne santé et/ou nourri, un effet bonne mine et/ou un éclat rosé. Advantageously, the use according to the present invention is to prevent and / or fight against aging of the skin and / or mucous membranes and / or scalp including chronobiological and / or photobiological, to prevent and / or fight against the decrease in homeostasis of the skin and / or mucous membranes and / or scalp and / or to improve it, especially in the epidermis, for reinforcing the basal epithelial membrane of the skin and / or the mucous membranes and / or the scalp, preferentially the dermo-epidermal junction, to improve the proliferation and / or differentiation of keratinocytes, especially at the epidermal level, in particular bound aging of the skin and / or the mucous membranes and / or the scalp, to prevent and / or fight against a decrease in the vascularization of the skin and / or the mucous membranes and / or the scalp and / or to improve it , in particular for improving the structure of the capillaries of the skin and / or the mucous membranes and / or the scalp in particular cutaneous, to improve the morphogenesis of the epithelium, the skin and / or the mucous membranes and / or the prefered scalp essentially the epidermis, to restore the epithelial architecture of the skin and / or the mucous membranes and / or the scalp, preferentially epidermal, in particular skin and / or mucosa and / or scalp having undergone aging, particularly chronobiological to improve the skin and / or mucous complexion, in particular to homogenize it, to improve the firmness and / or the density of the skin and / or the mucous membranes and / or the scalp, and / or to fight against decreasing the thickness of the epithelium of the skin and / or the mucous membranes and / or the scalp, preferentially the epidermis, and / or to increase the thickness of the epithelium of the skin and / or mucous membranes and and / or scalp, preferentially the epidermis and / or for the treatment or prevention of chapped skin and / or for combating, treating and / or preventing water retention and / or cellulitis and / or periorbital pockets and / or / or to increase and / or maintain the adhesion cel lulaire. In a particular embodiment, the purpose of the use according to the present invention is to improve the complexion of the skin, advantageously by eliminating redness and / or by homogenizing the complexion and / or by giving it a luminous, radiant appearance, in good health and / or nourished, a good-looking effect and / or a pinkish shine.
En effet, l'éclat du teint traduit en général un état de bonne santé de la peau. De nombreux facteurs intrinsèques ou extrinsèques peuvent provoquer un teint brouillé, inhomogène. Parmi les facteurs affectant l'éclat du teint de la peau, on peut citer le stress, la fatigue, les changements hormonaux, la déshydratation de l'épithélium, préférentiellement l'épiderme, les agents polluants et le vieillissement chronobiologique et photobiologique. Ces facteurs tendent à brouiller le teint, le rendre inhomogène, terne, cireux, voire maladif. L'expression du perlécane et du dystroglycane a un impact sur la voie microvasculaire ce qui permet de mieux nourrir la peau et de mieux la détoxifier donc de lui donner un aspect nourri et en bonne santé. En outre la couleur cutanée est influencée par la microcirculation : en atteignant les microvaisseaux, la lumière entre en contact avec les globules rouges qui absorbent spécifiquement dans le vert. Le rouge est réfléchit à la surface, donnant le teint rosé à la peau et donc un éclat rosé. L'éclat du teint dépend également du pouvoir réfléchissant de la peau. Ce pouvoir réfléchissant est influencé par la texture de la peau. Une peau ayant une texture plus douce, plus souple aura donc un meilleur respect. La restauration de l'architecture épidermique et l'amélioration de la morphogenèse de l'épithélium, préférentiellement l'épiderme obtenu grâce à la stimulation de l'expression du perlécane et/ou du dystroglycane permettra donc également l'amélioration du teint de la peau.  Indeed, the radiance of the complexion generally reflects a state of good health of the skin. Many intrinsic or extrinsic factors can cause a fuzzy, inhomogeneous complexion. Factors affecting the radiance of the complexion of the skin include stress, fatigue, hormonal changes, dehydration of the epithelium, preferentially the epidermis, pollutants and chronobiological and photobiological aging. These factors tend to blur the complexion, make it inhomogeneous, dull, waxy, even sickly. The expression of perlecane and dystroglycan has an impact on the microvascular pathway which allows to better nourish the skin and better detoxify it thus giving it a healthy and healthy appearance. In addition, the cutaneous color is influenced by the microcirculation: by reaching the microvessels, the light comes into contact with the red cells that absorb specifically in the green. The red is reflected on the surface, giving the skin a rosy complexion and therefore a pinkish shine. The radiance of the complexion also depends on the reflective power of the skin. This reflective power is influenced by the texture of the skin. A skin with a softer, more supple texture will therefore have a better respect. The restoration of the epidermal architecture and the improvement of the morphogenesis of the epithelium, preferentially the epidermis obtained by stimulating the expression of perlecane and / or dystroglycan will therefore also improve the skin's complexion. .
L'amélioration de l'éclat du teint dit « radiance » ou « glow » en anglais peut notamment être mesurée par une méthode instrumentale objective. Cette méthode de mesure in vivo consiste à prendre des photographies hautes résolution en configuration polarisée croisées du visage des volontaires prises à 45° avant et après application du produit testé. Sur la base de ces photographies numériques, une analyse d'image permet d'extraire et de quantifier des paramètres spécifiques (par exemple: L*, a*, b*, C, h°) reliés à la couleur, l'éclat, l'homogénéité, et la texture de la peau. The improvement in the radiance of the complexion called "radiance" or "glow" in English can in particular be measured by an objective instrumental method. This in vivo measurement method consists of taking high-resolution cross-polarized photographs of the volunteers' faces taken at 45 ° before and after application of the tested product. On the basis of these digital photographs, an image analysis makes it possible to extract and to quantify specific parameters (for example: L *, a *, b *, C, h °) related to the color, the brightness, the homogeneity, and the texture of the skin.
De même, la brillance dite « gloss » en anglais peut notamment être mesurée selon cette méthode sur la base de photographies hautes résolution en configuration polarisée croisées et polarisée parallèles du visage des volontaires prises à 45° avant et après application du produit testé. Sur la base de ces photographies numériques, une analyse d'image permet d'extraire et de quantifier des paramètres spécifiques reliés à la brillance tels que la brillance spéculaire et la brillance de contraste.  Similarly, the so-called gloss gloss in English can in particular be measured according to this method on the basis of high resolution photographs in parallel polarized and polarized configuration of the face of the volunteers taken at 45 ° before and after application of the tested product. On the basis of these digital photographs, an image analysis makes it possible to extract and quantify specific parameters related to brightness such as specular gloss and contrast brightness.
Dans un autre mode de réalisation particulier, l'utilisation selon la présente invention a pour but de prévenir et/ou lutter contre le vieillissement de la peau et/ou des muqueuses et/ou du cuir chevelu notamment chronobiologique ou photobiologique par diminution ou suppression des rides et/ou ridules, en particulier pour les peaux matures et/ou les peaux présentant les premiers signes de vieillissement. In another particular embodiment, the use according to the present invention aims to prevent and / or fight against aging of the skin and / or mucous membranes and / or the scalp including chronobiological or photobiological by reducing or eliminating wrinkles and / or fine lines, especially for mature skin and / or skin with the first signs of aging.
Au sens de la présente invention, on entend par « peaux matures », les peaux des femmes ou hommes ayant au minimum 50 ans, avantageusement les peaux des femmes ménopausées.  For the purposes of the present invention, the term "mature skin", the skin of women or men having at least 50 years, advantageously the skins of menopausal women.
Au sens de la présente invention, on entend par « peaux présentant les premiers signes de vieillissement », les peaux des femmes ou hommes ayant entre 28 et 40 ans, avantageusement les peaux présentant les premières rides d'expression. Dans encore un autre mode de réalisation particulier, l'utilisation selon la présente invention a pour but de prévenir et/ou lutter contre la diminution de l'homéostasie de la peau et/ou des muqueuses et/ou du cuir chevelu et/ou l'améliorer, en particulier dans l'épiderme. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "skin showing the first signs of aging", the skin of women or men between 28 and 40 years, advantageously the skin with the first expression lines. In yet another particular embodiment, the use according to the present invention aims to prevent and / or fight against the decrease in the homeostasis of the skin and / or mucous membranes and / or scalp and / or the skin. to improve, especially in the epidermis.
L'homéostasie notamment cutanée, et en particulier épidermique, résulte d'un équilibre finement réglé entre les processus de prolifération et de différenciation des cellules de la peau et en particulier des kératinocytes. Ces processus de prolifération et de différenciation participent au renouvellement et/ou à la régénération de la peau et conduisent au maintien d'une épaisseur constante de la peau, et en particulier d'une épaisseur constante de l'épithélium, préférentiellement l'épiderme. Cette homéostasie participe également au maintien des propriétés mécaniques de la peau, des muqueuses et du cuir chevelu. Homeostasis, particularly cutaneous, and in particular epidermal, results from a finely tuned balance between the proliferation and differentiation processes of skin cells and in particular keratinocytes. These proliferation and differentiation processes participate in the renewal and / or regeneration of the skin and lead to the maintenance of a constant thickness of the skin, and in particular of a constant thickness of the epithelium, preferentially the epidermis. This homeostasis also contributes to maintaining the mechanical properties of the skin, mucous membranes and scalp.
Mais cette homéostasie cutanée peut être altérée par certains facteurs physiologiques (âge, ménopause, hormones, stress...) et facteurs extrinsèques (agents polluants, ...). Le potentiel régénératif de l'épithélium, notamment l'épiderme devient moins important : les cellules de la couche basale se divisent moins activement, conduisant notamment à un ralentissement et/ou une diminution du renouvellement épidermique. Par conséquent, le renouvellement cellulaire ne compense plus la perte des cellules éliminées en surface, conduisant à une atrophie de l'épithélium, notamment l'épiderme et/ou une diminution de l'épaisseur de la peau et/ou des muqueuses et/ou du cuir chevelu et/ou une perte de densité et/ou de fermeté de la peau et/ou des muqueuses et/ou du cuir chevelu. Ce phénomène peut être accentué par la ménopause. Les déficits hormonaux associés à la ménopause s'accompagnent notamment d'une baisse d'activité métabolique, ce qui pourrait aboutir à une diminution de la prolifération des kératinocytes et une augmentation de la différenciation épidermique. L'utilisation selon la présente invention permet donc de favoriser l'homéostasie afin de maintenir et/ou augmenter l'épaisseur de la peau et/ou des muqueuses et/ou du cuir chevelu et ainsi maintenir et/ou améliorer les propriétés mécaniques de la peau et/ou des muqueuses et/ou du cuir chevelu et/ou améliorer la fermeté et/ou la densité de la peau et/ou des muqueuses et/ou du cuir chevelu, en particulier chez les femmes ménopausées. But this cutaneous homeostasis can be altered by certain physiological factors (age, menopause, hormones, stress ...) and extrinsic factors (pollutants, ...). The regenerative potential of the epithelium, in particular the epidermis becomes less important: the cells of the basal layer divide less actively, leading notably to a slowing down and / or a decrease of the epidermic renewal. Therefore, the cell renewal no longer compensates for the loss of cells removed on the surface, leading to atrophy of the epithelium, in particular the epidermis and / or a decrease in the thickness of the skin and / or mucous membranes and / or scalp and / or loss of density and / or firmness of the skin and / or mucous membranes and / or scalp. This phenomenon can be accentuated by menopause. The hormonal deficits associated with menopause are accompanied by a decrease in metabolic activity, which could lead to a decrease in the proliferation of keratinocytes and an increase in epidermal differentiation. The use according to the present invention therefore makes it possible promote homeostasis to maintain and / or increase the thickness of the skin and / or mucous membranes and / or scalp and thus maintain and / or improve the mechanical properties of the skin and / or mucous membranes and / or scalp and / or improve the firmness and / or density of the skin and / or mucous membranes and / or scalp, especially in postmenopausal women.
L'augmentation de l'épaisseur de l'épithélium, préférentiellement l'épiderme peut notamment être évaluée ex vivo sur modèle de biopsie de peau et/ou muqueuse et/ou cuir chevelu en survie. L'épithélium, préférentiellement l'épiderme est mesuré au début de l'expérience avant l'application du produit à tester et à l'issue de la période de test en présence du produit à tester, par exemple 4 jours préférentiellement 7 jours. L'épaisseur de l'épithélium, préférentiellement l'épiderme est dite augmentée si la mesure après application du produit est égale ou supérieure à 5% à l'issue de la période de test, préférentiellement égale ou supérieure à 10%.  The increase in the thickness of the epithelium, preferentially the epidermis can in particular be evaluated ex vivo model skin biopsy and / or mucosa and / or scalp survival. The epithelium, preferably the epidermis, is measured at the beginning of the experiment before application of the test product and at the end of the test period in the presence of the test product, for example 4 days, preferably 7 days. The thickness of the epithelium, preferentially the epidermis, is said to be increased if the measurement after application of the product is equal to or greater than 5% at the end of the test period, preferably equal to or greater than 10%.
Dans encore un autre mode de réalisation particulier, l'utilisation selon la présente invention a pour but de lutter contre, traiter et/ou prévenir la rétention d'eau et/ou la cellulite et/ou les poches périorbitaires et/ou augmenter et/ou maintenir l'adhésion cellulaire, en particulier pour but de lutter contre, traiter et/ou prévenir les poches périorbitaires. In yet another particular embodiment, the use according to the present invention aims to combat, treat and / or prevent the retention of water and / or cellulitis and / or periorbital pockets and / or increase and / or or maintain cell adhesion, particularly for the purpose of combating, treating and / or preventing periorbital pockets.
En effet les poches périorbitaires ont toujours été considérées comme inesthétiques et il a toujours été cherché à les masquer voire à les éliminer. Or les inventeurs ont découvert que l'extrait selon l'invention a un effet sur la diminution de la vasodilatation et de l'œdème excessif dû à la stase lymphatique, notamment dans la zone périorbitaire et ainsi sur la prévention ou le traitement des poches périoculaires. Par " poche périorbitaire ", on entend au sens de la présente invention, une zone localisée autour de l'œil, en particulier en dessous et sur le côté intérieur de l'œil, présentant un relief qui n'est pas dans la continuité de la peau du visage, c'est-à-dire en creux ou en poche (zone gonflée). Indeed periorbital pockets have always been considered unsightly and it has always been sought to hide or even eliminate them. However, the inventors have discovered that the extract according to the invention has an effect on the reduction of vasodilatation and excessive edema due to lymphatic stasis, especially in the periorbital zone and thus on the prevention or treatment of periocular pockets. . By "periorbital pocket" is meant in the sense of the present invention, an area located around the eye, particularly below and on the inner side of the eye, having a relief that is not in continuity with the skin of the face, that is to say hollow or pocket (inflated area).
Une poche périorbitaire peut être différenciée d'une cerne en ce qu'elle a un volume différent. Les cernes sont également en général plus sombres que les poches. Leur localisation et leur aspect sont différents. Leur stabilité et leur évolution sont différentes avec le temps. A periorbital pocket can be differentiated from a ring in that it has a different volume. Dark circles are also usually darker than puffiness. Their location and appearance are different. Their stability and evolution are different over time.
Leur identification se fait par examen clinique en trois phases : une phase d'observation, une phase de palpation et une phase de questions. Their identification is done by clinical examination in three phases: an observation phase, a palpation phase and a question phase.
L'effet sur les poches périorbitaires peut être mesuré par simple observation visuelle ou par analyse comparative d'images.  The effect on periorbital pockets can be measured by simple visual observation or comparative analysis of images.
Avantageusement la zone concernée de la peau, en particulier de l'être humain, sur laquelle est appliquée l'extrait de Tapirira guyanensis selon l'invention ou une composition cosmétique ou dermatologique le comprenant est choisie parmi le visage, le cou, le décolleté, le buste et /ou les mains, et tout particulièrement les sillons nasogéniens, et/ou la zone périorbitaire, en particulier sur les cernes et les pattes d'oies et/ou le contour des lèvres et/ou le front. Toutefois l'extrait peut également être appliqué sur le corps, et en particulier sur le ventre, les cuisses, les hanches, les fesses et/ou la taille, zones du corps qui peuvent montrer une perte de fermeté et/ou de densité. En outre dans le cas du traitement de la lutte contre, et/ou de la prévention des poches périorbitaires, la zone d'application est évidemment la zone périorbitaire. Advantageously, the relevant zone of the skin, in particular of the human being, on which the extract of Tapirira guyanensis according to the invention is applied or a cosmetic or dermatological composition comprising it is chosen from the face, the neck, the décolleté, the bust and / or the hands, and especially the nasolabial folds, and / or the periorbital area, especially on dark circles and crow's feet and / or the contour of the lips and / or the forehead. However the extract can also be applied to the body, and especially on the belly, thighs, hips, buttocks and / or waist areas of the body that can show a loss of firmness and / or density. In addition, in the case of the treatment of the fight against and / or the prevention of periorbital pockets, the area of application is obviously the periorbital zone.
Selon l'invention, l'extrait végétal de Tapirira guyanensis selon l'invention est utilisé seul ou dans une composition cosmétique ou dermatologique, à une concentration comprise entre 1.10"4 et 10% en poids, et avantageusement entre 1.10"4 et 5% et plus particulièrement entre 1.103 et 3% en poids par rapport au poids de la composition total, en particulier entre 0,001 et 0,1 % en poids par rapport au poids total la composition. Il peut aussi être présent en une teneur comprise entre 0,01 et 10% en poids par rapport au poids total la composition. According to the invention, the plant extract of Tapirira guyanensis according to the invention is used alone or in a cosmetic or dermatological composition, at a concentration of between 1.10 -4 and 10% by weight, and preferably between 1.10 -4 and 5% and more particularly between 1.10 3 and 3% by weight relative to the weight of the total composition, in particular between 0.001 and 0.1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. be present in a content of between 0.01 and 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
Dans un mode de réalisation selon la présente invention, l'extrait de Tapirira guyanensis est utilisé pour la fabrication d'une composition dermatologique pour le soin et/ou le traitement dermatologique de la couperose, des télangiectasies, et/ou pour le soin et/ou traitement des pathologies des muqueuses buccales et/ou oculaires, en particulier pour le soin et/ou traitement des pathologies des muqueuses buccales impliquant une perte de fermeté et/ou de densité au niveau de la muqueuse buccale et/ou pour améliorer la structure vasculaire buccale et/ou pour le soin et/ou traitement des pathologies des muqueuses oculaires impliquant une perte de fermeté et/ou de densité au niveau de la muqueuse oculaire et/ou pour améliorer la structure vasculaire oculaire et/ou pour le traitement de pathologies impliquant une dégradation excessive ou pathologique de l'adhésion cellulaire et/ou de pathologies liées à la rétention d'eau ou de fluides. In one embodiment according to the present invention, the extract of Tapirira guyanensis is used for the manufacture of a dermatological composition for the care and / or the dermatological treatment of rosacea, telangiectases, and / or for the care and / or or treatment of pathologies of the oral and / or ocular mucosa, in particular for the care and / or treatment of pathologies of the oral mucosa involving loss of firmness and / or density in the oral mucosa and / or for improving the vascular structure and / or for the care and / or treatment of ocular mucosal pathologies involving a loss of firmness and / or density in the ocular mucosa and / or for improving the ocular vascular structure and / or for the treatment of pathologies involving excessive or pathological degradation of cell adhesion and / or pathologies related to the retention of water or fluids.
Dans un autre mode de réalisation selon la présente invention, l'extrait de Tapirira guyanensis selon l'invention est présent dans une composition cosmétique ou dermatologique comprenant un excipient cosmétique ou dermatologique topiquement acceptable. In another embodiment according to the present invention, the Tapirira guyanensis extract according to the invention is present in a cosmetic or dermatological composition comprising a topically acceptable cosmetic or dermatological excipient.
Cette composition cosmétique ou dermatologique est avantageusement destinée à une application par voie topique.  This cosmetic or dermatological composition is advantageously intended for topical application.
Les compositions cosmétiques ou dermatologiques selon l'invention contiennent donc un excipient cosmétique ou dermatologique topiquement acceptable en plus de l'extrait selon l'invention. Cet excipient est par exemple au moins un composé choisi dans le groupe consistant en les conservateurs, les émollients, les émulsifiants, les tensioactifs, les hydratants, les épaississants, les conditionneurs, les agents matifiants, les stabilisants, les antioxydants, les agents de texture, les agents de brillance, les agents filmogènes, les solubilisants, les pigments, les colorants, les parfums et les filtres solaires. Ces excipients sont de préférence choisis parmi le groupe consistant en les acides aminés et leurs dérivés, les polyglycérols, les esters, les polymères et dérivés de cellulose, les dérivés de Lanoline, les phospholipides, les lactoferrines, les lactoperoxidases, les stabilisants à base de sucrose, les vitamines E et ses dérivés, les cires naturelles et synthétiques, les huiles végétales, les triglycérides, les insaponifiables, les phytostérols, les esters végétaux, les silicones et ses dérivés, les hydrolysats de protéines, l'huile de Jojoba et ses dérivés, les esters lipo/hydrosolubles, les betaines, les aminoxides, les extraits de plantes, les esters de Saccharose, les dioxydes de Titane, les glycines, et les parabens, et encore de préférence parmi le groupe consistant en le stéareth-2, le stéareth-21, le glycol-15 stéaryle éther, le cétéaryl alcool, le phénoxyéthanol, le méthylparaben, l'éthylparaben, le propylparaben, le butylparaben, le butylène glycol, le caprylyl glycol, les tocophérols naturels, la glycérine, le dihydroxycetyl sodium phosphate, l'isopropyl hydroxycétyl éther, le glycol stéarate, le triisononanoin, l'octyl cocoate, le polyacrylamide, l'isoparaffine, le laureth-7, un carbomer, le propylène glycol, l'hexylène glycol, le glycérol, le bisabolol, une diméthicone, l'hydroxyde de sodium, le PEG 30-dipolyhydroxystérate, les caprique/caprylique triglycérides, le cétéaryl octanoate, le dibutyl adipate, l'huile de pépin de raisin, l'huile de jojoba, le sulfate de magnésium, l'EDTA, une cyclométhicone, la gomme de xanthane, l'acide citrique, le lauryl sulfate de sodium, les cires et les huiles minérales, l'isostéaryl isostéarate, le dipélargonate de propylène glycol, l'isostéarate de propylène glycol, le PEG 8, Beeswax, les glycérides d'huile de cœur de palme hydrogénée, l'huile de lanoline, l'huile de sésame, le cétyl lactate, le lanoline alcool, l'huile de ricin, le dioxyde de titane, le lactose, le saccharose, le polyéthylène basse densité, une solution isotonique salée. The cosmetic or dermatological compositions according to the invention therefore contain a cosmetic or dermatological excipient topically acceptable in addition to the extract according to the invention. This excipient is for example at least one compound selected from the group consisting of preservatives, emollients, emulsifiers, surfactants, moisturizers, thickeners, conditioners, mattifying agents, stabilizers, antioxidants, texture agents , gloss agents, film-forming agents, solubilizers, pigments, dyes, perfumes and sunscreens. These excipients are preferably chosen from the group consisting of amino acids and their derivatives, polyglycerols, esters, polymers and cellulose derivatives, lanolin derivatives, phospholipids, lactoferrins, lactoperoxidases, stabilizers based on sucrose, vitamins E and its derivatives, natural and synthetic waxes, vegetable oils, triglycerides, unsaponifiables, phytosterols, vegetable esters, silicones and its derivatives, protein hydrolysates, Jojoba oil and its derivatives, lipo / water-soluble esters, betaines, aminoxides, plant extracts, sucrose esters, titanium dioxides, glycines, and parabens, and more preferably from the group consisting of steareth-2, steareth-21, glycol-15 stearyl ether, cetearyl alcohol, phenoxyethanol, methylparaben, ethylparaben, propylparaben, butylparaben, butyl ethylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, natural tocopherols, glycerine, dihydroxycetyl sodium phosphate, isopropyl hydroxyketyl ether, glycol stearate, triisononanoin, octyl cocoate, polyacrylamide, isoparaffin, laureth-7, carbomer, propylene glycol, hexylene glycol, glycerol, bisabolol, dimethicone, sodium hydroxide, PEG-30-dipolyhydroxystate, capric / caprylic triglycerides, cetearyl octanoate, dibutyl adipate, grape seed, jojoba oil, magnesium sulfate, EDTA, cyclomethicone, xanthan gum, citric acid, sodium lauryl sulfate, waxes and mineral oils, isostearyl isostearate, propylene glycol dipelargonate, propylene glycol isostearate, PEG 8, Beeswax, glycerides of hydrogenated palm heart oil, lanolin oil, sesame oil, cetyl lactate, lanolin alcohol, castor oil, titanium dioxide, lactose, sucrose, low density polyethylene, salted isotonic solution.
La composition cosmétique selon l'invention peut être choisie parmi une solution, aqueuse ou huileuse, une crème ou un gel aqueux ou un gel huileux, notamment un gel douche, un shampoing ; un lait ; une émulsion, une microémulsion ou une nanoémulsion, notamment huile- dans-eau ou eau-dans-huile ou multiple ou siliconée ; un masque ; un sérum ; une lotion ; un savon liquide ; un pain dermatologique ; une pommade ; une mousse ; un patch ; un produit anhydre, de préférence liquide, pâteux ou solide, par exemple sous forme de poudres de maquillage, de bâtonnet ou de stick, notamment sous forme de rouge à lèvre. De façon avantageuse il s'agit d'une crème ou d'un sérum, en particulier un contour des yeux ou des lèvres. The cosmetic composition according to the invention may be chosen from an aqueous or oily solution, an aqueous cream or gel or an oily gel, in particular a shower gel, a shampoo; a milk ; an emulsion, a microemulsion or a nanoemulsion, especially oil-in-water or water-in-oil or multiple or silicone; a mask; a serum; a lotion; a liquid soap; a dermatological bread; an ointment ; a mousse; a patch; an anhydrous product, preferably liquid, pasty or solid, for example in the form of makeup powders, stick or stick, especially in the form of lipstick. Advantageously it is a cream or a serum, in particular an outline of the eyes or lips.
Les compositions selon l'invention sont plus particulièrement appliquées au niveau du visage, préférentiellement quotidiennement, préférentiellement une à deux fois par jour, préférentiellement le matin et/ou le soir.  The compositions according to the invention are more particularly applied to the face, preferably daily, preferably one to two times a day, preferably in the morning and / or evening.
Avantageusement, les compositions cosmétiques selon l'invention contiennent d'autres ingrédients d'intérêt notamment cosmétique, préférentiellement des agents ayant des propriétés similaires. Préférentiellement il s'agit des ingrédients classiques des compositions anti-âges et/ou améliorant la densité et/ou la fermeté de la peau et/ou des muqueuses et/ou améliorant le teint de la peau et/ou l'homéostasie cutanée notamment ceux choisis parmi les agents de comblement, les agents tenseurs, les agents hydratants, les agents stimulants les molécules de la matrice extracellulaire. Les compositions cosmétiques selon l'invention peuvent également contenir des ingrédients actifs cosmétiques conduisant à un effet complémentaire ou éventuellement synergique tels que des actifs hydratants, des actifs anti-âge, des actifs anti-radicalaires, les agents protecteurs du facteur de croissance des fibroblastes (FGF), les agents stimulant l'activité et/ou la prolifération des fibroblastes et/ou des eaux thermales. Il peut ainsi s'agir par exemple d'agents de coloration de la peau ou pro-pigmentants, d'inhibiteurs de NO-synthase, d'agents antiséborrhéiques pour le soin des peaux grasses, d'agents stimulant la synthèse de macromolécules dermiques ou épidermiques, notamment de la matrice extracellulaire et/ou empêchant leur dégradation, pour un effet synergique ou complémentaire, d'agents stimulant la prolifération des fibroblastes ou des kératinocytes et/ou la différenciation des kératinocytes, pour un effet synergique ou complémentaire, d'agents antimicrobiens, d'agent tenseurs, d'agents antipollutions ou anti-radicalaires, d'agents apaisants, calmants ou relaxants, d'agents agissant sur la microcirculation pour améliorer l'éclat du teint, en particulier du visage, pour un effet synergique ou complémentaire, d'agents photoprotecteurs, d'agents cicatrisants, d'agents amincissants, d'agents anti âge pour un effet synergique ou complémentaire ou éventuellement d'agents hydratants et/ou renforçant la barrière épidermique. Advantageously, the cosmetic compositions according to the invention contain other ingredients of interest, in particular a cosmetic one, preferably agents having similar properties. Preferably, these are the conventional ingredients of the anti-aging and / or improving the density and / or the firmness of the skin and / or mucous membranes and / or improving the complexion of the skin and / or cutaneous homeostasis including those selected from fillers, tensors, moisturizing agents, stimulating agents and extracellular matrix molecules. The cosmetic compositions according to the invention may also contain cosmetic active ingredients leading to a complementary or possibly synergistic effect such as moisturizing active agents, anti-aging active agents, anti-radical active agents, and fibroblast growth factor protective agents ( FGF), agents that stimulate the activity and / or proliferation of fibroblasts and / or thermal waters. It may thus be, for example, skin-coloring or pro-pigmenting agents, NO-synthase inhibitors, antiseborrhoeic agents for the care of oily skin, agents stimulating the synthesis of dermal macromolecules or epidermics, in particular of the extracellular matrix and / or preventing their degradation, for a synergistic or complementary effect of agents stimulating the proliferation of fibroblasts or keratinocytes and / or the differentiation of keratinocytes, for a synergistic or complementary effect of agents antimicrobial agents, tensing agents, antipollution or anti-radical agents, soothing, calming or relaxing agents, agents acting on the microcirculation to improve the radiance of the complexion, in particular the face, for a synergistic effect or complement, photoprotective agents, healing agents, slimming agents, anti-aging agents for a synergistic or complementary effect or possibly moisturizing agents and / or reinforcing the epidermal barrier.
Les actifs hydratants, émollients ou humectants peuvent renforcer la fonction barrière et diminuer les pertes insensibles en eau et/ou augmenter la teneur en eau de la peau et/ou des muqueuses ou stimuler l'activité sécrétoire des glandes sébacées et/ou stimuler la synthèse d'aquaporine pour améliorer la circulation de l'eau dans les cellules. On peut citer à titre d'exemple non limitatif les actifs suivants : la sérine, l'urée et ses dérivés, les produits commercialisés sous le nom de Marine Filling sphères™, Advances moisturizing complex™, Hyaluronic Filling Sphères™, végétal filling sphères™ Osmogelline™, Micropatch™, les alkylcelluloses, les lécithines, les composés à base de sphingoïde, les céramides, les phospholipides, le cholestérol et ses dérivés, les glycosphingolipides, les phytostérols (stigmastérol et béta-sitostérol, campestérol), les acides gras essentiels, le 1-2 diacylglycérol, la 4- chromanone, les triterpènes pentacycliques tels que l'acide ursolique, la vaseline, la lanoline, les sucres en particulier le tréhalose et ses dérivés, le rhamnose, fructose, maltose, lactose, erythritol, le mannitol, le D-xylose et le glucose, l'adénosine et ses dérivés, le sorbitol, les alcools polyhydriques, avantageusement en C2-C6, et de façon encore avantageuse en C3-C6, tels que la glycérine, le propylène glycol, le dipropylène glycol, la diglycérine, la polyglycérine et leur mélange, le glycérol et ses dérivés, le polyacrylate de glycérol, le lactate de sodium, le pentanediol, la serine, les acides lactiques, les AHA, les BHA, le pidolate de sodium, le xylitol, le lactate de sodium, l'ectoine et ses dérivés, le chitosane et ses dérivés, le collagène, le plancton, les dérivés stéroïdiens (dont la DHEA, ses dérivés 7-oxydés et/ou 17-alkylés et les sapogénines), le dihydrojasmonate de méthyle, la vitamine D et ses dérivés, un extrait de Malva sylvestres ou un extrait de Centella asiatica, des homopolymères d'acide acrylique, le beta- glucan et en particulier le sodium carboxymethyl beta-glucane, un dérivé C-glycoside tel que ceux décrits dans la demande WO 02/051828, une huile de rosier muscat, un extrait de micro-algue Prophyridium cruentum enrichi en zinc commercialisé par Vincience sous la dénomination Algualane Zinc™, l'arginine, l'acetyl hexapeptide commercialisé par Lipotech sous le nom Diffuporine™, l'hydrolysat de Viola tricolor commercialisé par Silab sous le nom Aquaphyline™. Moisturizing, emollient or humectant active ingredients can enhance the barrier function and reduce water insensitive losses and / or increase the water content of the skin and / or mucous membranes or stimulate secretory activity of the sebaceous glands and / or stimulate synthesis aquaporin to improve the circulation of water in the cells. By way of non-limiting example, the following active agents may be mentioned: serine, urea and its derivatives, the products marketed under the name Marine Filling Spheres ™, Advances Moisturizing Complex ™, Hyaluronic Filling Spheres ™, plant filling spheres ™ Osmogelline ™, Micropatch ™, alkylcelluloses, lecithins, sphingoid-based compounds, ceramides, phospholipids, cholesterol and its derivatives, glycosphingolipids, phytosterols (stigmasterol and beta-sitosterol, campesterol), essential fatty acids, 1-2 diacylglycerol, 4-chromanone, pentacyclic triterpenes such as ursolic acid, petrolatum, lanolin, sugars, in particular trehalose and its derivatives, rhamnose, fructose, maltose, lactose, erythritol, mannitol, D-xylose and glucose, adenosine and its derivatives, sorbitol, polyhydric alcohols, advantageously C2-C6, and still advantageously C3-C6, such as glycerine, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, diglycerine, polyglycerin and their mixture, glycerol and its derivatives, glycerol polyacrylate, sodium lactate, pentanediol, serine, acyl lactic acids, AHAs, BHAs, sodium pidolate, xylitol, sodium lactate, ectoin and its derivatives, chitosan and its derivatives, collagen, plankton, steroid derivatives (including DHEA, its 7-oxidized and / or 17-alkylated derivatives and sapogenins), methyl dihydrojasmonate, vitamin D and its derivatives, an extract of Malva sylvestres or an extract of Centella asiatica, homopolymers of acrylic acid, beta-glucan and in particular sodium carboxymethyl beta-glucan, a C-glycoside derivative such as those described in patent application WO 02/051828, a muscat rose oil, an extract of the micro-alga Prophyridium cruentum enriched in zinc marketed by Vincience under the name Algualane Zinc ™, arginine, the acetyl hexapeptide marketed by Lipotech under the name Diffuporine ™, the hydrolyzate of Viola tricolor marketed by Silab under the name Aquaphyline ™.
L'actif peut également être choisi parmi les agents anti-âges, c'est-à-dire ayant notamment un effet restructurant de la barrière cutanée, les agents prévenant et/ou diminuant la glycation des protéines de la peau en particulier des protéines du derme, telles que le collagène, les actifs stimulant le métabolisme énergétique des cellules et leurs mélanges, un agent à action globale anti-âge, en particulier la niacinamide ou vitamine B3 et dérivés. L'agent ayant un effet restructurant de la barrière cutanée peut être choisi parmi un des extraits de levure comme le Relipidium™ de BASF Beauty Care Solutions France SAS, des sphingosines comme la salicyloyl sphingosine, un mélange de xylitol, de xylityl polyglycoside et de xylitan, des extraits de solanacée comme le Lipidessence™ de BASF Beauty Care Solutions France SAS et leurs mélanges. On peut encore citer notamment les céramides, les composés à base de sphingoïdes, les glycosphingolipides, les phospholipides, le cholestérol et ses dérivés, les phytostérols, les acides gras essentiels, le diacylglycérol, la 4-chromanone et dérivés de chromone et leurs mélanges, vitamine B5 ou pantothenate et dérivés The active ingredient may also be chosen from anti-aging agents, that is to say having a restructuring effect on the cutaneous barrier, the agents preventing and / or reducing the glycation of the proteins of the skin in question. particular dermal proteins, such as collagen, cells stimulating energy metabolism and their mixtures, a global anti-aging agent, in particular niacinamide or vitamin B3 and derivatives thereof. The agent having a restructuring effect of the cutaneous barrier can be chosen from one of the yeast extracts such as Relipidium ™ from BASF Beauty Care Solutions France SAS, sphingosines such as salicyloyl sphingosine, a mixture of xylitol, xylityl polyglycoside and xylitan solanaceous extracts such as Lipidessence ™ from BASF Beauty Care Solutions France SAS and their blends. Mention may also be made in particular of ceramides, compounds based on sphingoids, glycosphingolipids, phospholipids, cholesterol and its derivatives, phytosterols, essential fatty acids, diacylglycerol, 4-chromanone and chromone derivatives and mixtures thereof. vitamin B5 or pantothenate and derivatives
L'actif stimulant le métabolisme énergétique des cellules peut par exemple être choisi parmi la biotine, un mélange de sels de sodium, de manganèse, de zinc et de magnésium d'acide pyrrolidone carboxylique, un mélange de gluconate de zinc, de cuivre et de magnésium et leurs mélanges. The active agent stimulating the energetic metabolism of the cells can for example be chosen from biotin, a mixture of sodium, manganese, zinc and magnesium salts of pyrrolidone carboxylic acid, a mixture of zinc gluconate, copper and magnesium. magnesium and their mixtures.
L'agent anti-séborrhéique dans la composition selon l'invention peut être un inhibiteur de 5a-réductase, tel que les rétinoïdes, la sarcosine, les sels de zinc, en particulier le gluconate de zinc, le salicylate de zinc, l'acide azélaique et/ou leurs dérivés, et/ou leurs mélanges et un extrait d'Orthosiphon stamineus commercialisé sous le nom de MAT XS™ bright par BASF Beauty Care Solutions France SAS. The anti-seborrhoeic agent in the composition according to the invention may be a 5α-reductase inhibitor, such as retinoids, sarcosine, zinc salts, in particular zinc gluconate, zinc salicylate, acid azelaic acid and / or their derivatives, and / or their mixtures and an Orthosiphon stamineus extract sold under the name MAT XS ™ bright by BASF Beauty Care Solutions France SAS.
La composition peut également contenir un agent absorbeur de sébum, en particulier un talc et/ou un polymère absorbant, un agent antibactérien notamment ceux décrit dans la demande de brevet FR2863893, et en particulier un extrait de Boldo, un tel extrait étant notamment commercialisé par la Demanderesse sous le nom Betapur , un agent comédolytique en particulier l'acide rétinoïque et un de ses dérivés tels que isotrétinoine, adapalène et/ou acide 13cis rétinoïque et le péroxyde de benzoyle, un agent antibiotique local, en particulier l'érythromycine et/ou le phosphate de clindamycine et leurs mélanges. The composition may also contain a sebum-absorbing agent, in particular a talc and / or an absorbent polymer, an antibacterial agent, in particular those described in the patent application FR2863893, and in particular an extract of Boldo, such an extract being in particular marketed by the Applicant under the name Betapur, a comedolytic agent, in particular retinoic acid and one of its derivatives such as isotretinoin, adapalene and / or retinoic acid and benzoyl peroxide, a local antibiotic agent, in particular erythromycin and / or clindamycin phosphate and mixtures thereof.
Parmi les actifs stimulant la synthèse des macromolécules du derme ou empêchant leur dégradation, on peut citer ceux qui agissent comme : Among the active agents stimulating the synthesis of macromolecules of the dermis or preventing their degradation, there may be mentioned those which act as:
- un agent stimulant la synthèse de fibronectine, en particulier un extrait de maïs, un tel extrait étant notamment commercialisé par la Demanderesse sous le nom Deliner™ et le palmitoyl pentapeptide commercialisé par la société SEDERMA sous la dénomination commerciale Matrixil™, an agent stimulating the synthesis of fibronectin, in particular a corn extract, such an extract being in particular marketed by the Applicant under the name Deliner ™ and the palmitoyl pentapeptide marketed by SEDERMA under the trade name Matrixil ™,
- un agent de protection du facteur de croissance des fibroblastes (FGF2) de la matrice extracellulaire contre sa dégradation et/ou sa dénaturation, notamment un extrait d'Hibiscus abelmoscus tel que décrit dans la demande de brevet au nom de la Demanderesse déposée sous le numéro FR0654316 et/ou un agent de stimulation de croissance des fibroblastes par exemple un extrait de soja fermenté contenant des peptides, connu sous le nom de Phytokine™ commercialisé par la Demanderesse et également décrit dans la demande de brevet EPI 119344 Bl (Laboratoires Expanscience), et préférentiellement une combinaison de ces deux extraits;  an agent for protecting the fibroblast growth factor (FGF2) of the extracellular matrix against its degradation and / or denaturation, in particular an extract of Hibiscus abelmoscus as described in the patent application in the Applicant's name filed under No. FR0654316 and / or a fibroblast growth stimulating agent, for example a fermented soy extract containing peptides, known under the name Phytokine ™ marketed by the Applicant and also described in patent application EPI 119344 B1 (Laboratoires Expanscience) and preferably a combination of these two extracts;
- un agent stimulant la synthèse de laminine, en particulier un extrait de malt modifié par biotechnologie, un tel extrait étant notamment commercialisé par la Demanderesse sous le nom Basaline™ ;  an agent stimulating the synthesis of laminin, in particular a biotechnologically modified malt extract, such an extract being in particular marketed by the Applicant under the name Basaline ™;
- un agent stimulant l'expression et/ou l'activité de la Hyaluronane synthase 2 (HAS2) tels que les extraits végétaux décrits dans la demande de brevet FR2 893 252 Al et en particulier un extrait aqueux de Galanga (Alpinia galanga) ; - un agent stimulant la synthèse de lysyl oxydase like (LOXL) tel que un extrait de Geophila cordifolia et ceux décrits dans la demande de brevet FR2855968, et en particulier un extrait d'aneth ; an agent stimulating the expression and / or the activity of Hyaluronan synthase 2 (HAS2), such as the plant extracts described in patent application FR 2 893 252 A1 and in particular an aqueous extract of Galanga (Alpinia galanga); an agent stimulating the synthesis of lysyl oxidase like (LOXL) such as an extract of Geophila cordifolia and those described in the patent application FR2855968, and in particular a dill extract;
- un agent stimulant la synthèse d'ATP intracellulaire, notamment un extrait d'algue Laminaria digitata ;  an agent stimulating the synthesis of intracellular ATP, in particular an extract of alga Laminaria digitata;
- un actif stimulant la synthèse des glycosaminoglycanes, tels que le produit de fermentation du lait ;  an active stimulating the synthesis of glycosaminoglycans, such as the product of fermentation of milk;
- un actif stimulateur de collagène tel que le rétinol et/ou la vitamine C ; a collagen stimulating active agent such as retinol and / or vitamin C;
- un actif inhibiteur des métalloprotéinases (MMP) telles que plus particulièrement les MMP 1, 2, 3, 9 tel que les rétinoïdes et dérivés, les oligopeptides et les lipopeptides, les lipoaminoacides, l'extrait de malt commercialisé par BASF Beauty Care Solutions France sous la dénomination commerciale Collalift™, l'extrait hydrolysé de pomme de terre commercialisé sous le nom Extracellium™ par BASF Beauty Care solutions France SAS; le lycopène ; les isoflavones, la quercetine, le kaempferol, l'apigenine. a metalloproteinase inhibitor active ingredient (MMP) such as, more particularly, MMPs 1, 2, 3, 9 such as retinoids and derivatives, oligopeptides and lipopeptides, lipoamino acids, malt extract marketed by BASF Beauty Care Solutions France under the trade name Collalift ™, the hydrolysed extract of potato marketed under the name Extracellium ™ by BASF Beauty Care Solutions France SAS; lycopene; isoflavones, quercetin, kaempferol, apigenine.
Les agents stimulant la prolifération des kératinocytes, utilisables dans la composition selon l'invention, comprennent notamment les rétinoïdes tels que le rétinol et ses esters, dont le palmitate de rétinyle et le phloroglucinol. Les agents stimulant la différenciation des kératinocytes comprennent par exemple les minéraux tels que le calcium et les lignanes tels que le sécoisolaricirésinol ainsi que l'extrait d'Achillea millefollium commercialisé sous le nom de Neurobiox™ par BASF Beauty Care Solutions France.  The agents stimulating the proliferation of keratinocytes, usable in the composition according to the invention, include retinoids such as retinol and its esters, including retinyl palmitate and phloroglucinol. The agents stimulating the differentiation of keratinocytes include, for example, minerals such as calcium and lignans such as secoisolariciresinol and Achillea millefollium extract sold under the name Neurobiox ™ by BASF Beauty Care Solutions France.
Les agents antimicrobiens susceptibles d'être utilisés dans la composition selon l'invention peuvent notamment être choisis parmi le 2,4,4'-trichloro- 2'-hydroxy diphényl éther (ou triclosan), le 3,4,4'-trichlorobanilide, le phénoxyéthanol, le phénoxypropanol, le phénoxyisopropanol, l'hexamidine iséthionate, le métronidazole et ses sels, le miconazole et ses sels, l'itraconazole, le terconazole, l'éconazole, le ketoconazole, le saperconazole, le fluconazole, le clotrimazole, le butoconazole, l'oxiconazole, le sulfaconazole, le sulconazole, le terbinafine, le l'acide undécylenique et ses sels, le peroxyde de benzoyie, l'acide 3-hydroxy benzoïque, l'acide 4-hydroxy benzoïque, l'acide phytique, l'acide N-acétyl- L-cystéine, l'acide lipoïque, l'acide azélaïque et ses sels, l'acide arachidonique, le résorcinol, l'octoxyglycérine, l'octanoylglycine, le caprylyl glycol, l'acide 10-hydroxy-2-décanoïque, le farnesol, les phytosphingosines et leurs mélanges. The antimicrobial agents that may be used in the composition according to the invention may especially be chosen from 2,4,4'-trichloro-2'-hydroxy diphenyl ether (or triclosan), 3,4,4'-trichlorobanilide phenoxyethanol, phenoxypropanol, phenoxyisopropanol, hexamidine isethionate, metronidazole and its salts, miconazole and its salts, itraconazole, terconazole, econazole, ketoconazole, saperconazole, fluconazole, clotrimazole, butoconazole, oxiconazole, sulfaconazole, sulconazole, terbinafine, undecylenic acid and its salts, peroxide benzoyl, 3-hydroxy benzoic acid, 4-hydroxy benzoic acid, phytic acid, N-acetyl-L-cysteine acid, lipoic acid, azelaic acid and its salts, arachidonic acid, resorcinol, octoxyglycerine, octanoylglycine, caprylyl glycol, 10-hydroxy-2-decanoic acid, farnesol, phytosphingosines and mixtures thereof.
Parmi les agents tenseurs utilisables dans la composition selon la présente invention, on peut citer notamment les polymères synthétiques, tels que les latex de polyuréthanne ou les latex acryliques ; les polymères d'origine naturelle, notamment les polyholosides sous forme d'amidon ou sous forme de carraghénanes, alginates, agars, gellanes, polymères cellulosiques et pectines; les protéines et hydrolysats de protéines végétales de soja ; les silicates mixtes ; les microparticules de cire ; les particules colloïdales de charge inorganique choisies par exemple parmi la silice, les composites silice-alumine ; ainsi que leurs mélanges. Among the tensing agents that may be used in the composition according to the present invention, there may be mentioned in particular synthetic polymers, such as polyurethane latices or acrylic latices; polymers of natural origin, especially polyholosides in the form of starch or in the form of carrageenans, alginates, agars, gellans, cellulosic polymers and pectins; vegetable protein and hydrolyzate of soybean; mixed silicates; microparticles of wax; the colloidal particles of inorganic filler chosen, for example, from silica, silica-alumina composites; as well as their mixtures.
La composition peut comprendre des agents dits antipollution, en particulier piégeur d'ozone que sont par exemple la vitamine C et ses dérivés dont le glucoside d'ascorbyle; les phénols et polyphénols, en particulier les tannins, l'acide ellagique et l'acide tannique; l'épigallocatéchine et les extraits naturels en contenant, en particulier les extraits de thé vert; les anthocyanes; les acides phénols, les stilbènes; des actifs piégeurs de composés aromatiques mono- ou polycycliques les tannins tels que l'acide ellagique et les dérivés indoles et/ou des actifs piégeurs de métaux lourds tels que l'EDTA, des actifs anti-radicalaires tels que la vitamine E et ses dérivés tels que l'acétate de tocophéryle ; les bioflavonoïdes; la coenzyme Q10 ou ubiquinone. Comme agents apaisants utilisables dans la composition selon l'invention, on peut citer : les triterpènes pentacycliques, l'acide ursolique et ses sels, l'acide oléanolique et ses sels, l'acide bétulinique et ses sels, les sels de l'acide salicylique et en particulier le salicylate de zinc, le bisabolol, l'allantoïne, les huiles insaturées en oméga 3, la cortisone, l'hydrocortisone, l'indométhacine et la beta méthasone, les actifs antiinflammatoires, et notamment ceux décrits dans la demande FR2847267, en particulier l'extrait de racine de Pueraria lobata commercialisé sous le nom Inhipase™ par BASF Beauty Care Solutions France SAS, les extraits de Theobroma cacao. The composition may comprise agents known as antipollution agents, in particular ozone scavengers, for example vitamin C and its derivatives including ascorbyl glucoside; phenols and polyphenols, in particular tannins, ellagic acid and tannic acid; epigallocatechin and natural extracts containing it, in particular green tea extracts; anthocyanins; phenol acids, stilbenes; scavengers of mono- or polycyclic aromatic compounds tannins such as ellagic acid and indole derivatives and / or scavengers of heavy metals such as EDTA, anti-radical active agents such as vitamin E and its derivatives such as tocopheryl acetate; bioflavonoids; coenzyme Q10 or ubiquinone. As soothing agents that can be used in the composition according to the invention, mention may be made of: pentacyclic triterpenes, ursolic acid and its salts, oleanolic acid and its salts, betulinic acid and its salts, and salts of the acid salicylic acid and in particular zinc salicylate, bisabolol, allantoin, omega 3 unsaturated oils, cortisone, hydrocortisone, indomethacin and beta-methasone, anti-inflammatory active agents, and in particular those described in the application FR2847267 , in particular the extract of Pueraria lobata root marketed under the name Inhipase ™ by BASF Beauty Care Solutions France SAS, extracts of Theobroma cacao.
Les ingrédients actifs agissant sur la microcirculation (vasoprotecteurs ou vasodilatateurs) peuvent être choisis parmi les flavonoïdes, les ruscogénines, les nicotinates, les huiles essentielles.  The active ingredients acting on the microcirculation (vasoprotective or vasodilator) may be chosen from flavonoids, ruscogenins, nicotinates, essential oils.
Les ingrédients actifs photoprotecteurs ou filtres UVA et/ou UVB utilisables selon la présente invention sont notamment les agents photoprotecteurs actifs dans l'UV-A et/ou l'UV-B, tels que les dérivés de l'acide para-amino- benzoïque notamment UVINUL P25™ commercialisé par BASF, les dérivés salicyliques en particulier l'homosalate seul ou en association avec des oxydes de titane, les dérivés du dibenzoylméthane, les dérivés cinnamiques, les dérivés de diphénylacrylate, dont Octocrylene vendu notamment sous le nom commercial UVINUL N539™ par BASF, les dérivés de la benzophénone, notamment Benzophenone-1 vendue notamment sous le nom commercial UVINUL 400™ par BASF, les dérivés du benzylidène camphre, les dérivés de benzimidazole, les dérivés de triazine, dont Ethylhexyl triazone vendu notamment sous le nom commercial UVINUL T150™ par BASF, les dérivés de benzotriazole, les dérivés anthranilique, les dérivés d'imidazolines les dérivés de benzalmalonate, les dérivés de 4,4-diarylbutadiène, et leurs mélanges. Les actifs procurant un effet de bien-être tels que ceux mimant les effets des béta-endorphines pour améliorer la fonction barrière de la peau, tels que ceux cités dans la demande de brevet US 2006069032 ; les actifs stimulants la synthèse des béta-endorphines tels que un extrait de la plante Tephrosia purpurea. The photoprotective active ingredients or UVA and / or UVB filters that can be used according to the present invention are in particular UV-A and / or UV-B active photoprotective agents, such as para-aminobenzoic acid derivatives. especially UVINUL P25 ™ marketed by BASF, salicylic derivatives in particular homosalate alone or in combination with titanium oxides, dibenzoylmethane derivatives, cinnamic derivatives, diphenylacrylate derivatives, including Octocrylene sold in particular under the trade name UVINUL N539 ™ by BASF, derivatives of benzophenone, in particular Benzophenone-1 sold in particular under the trade name UVINUL 400 ™ by BASF, benzylidene camphor derivatives, benzimidazole derivatives, triazine derivatives, of which Ethylhexyl triazone sold in particular under the name commercial UVINUL T150 ™ by BASF, benzotriazole derivatives, anthranilic derivatives, imidazoline derivatives benzalma derivatives lonate, 4,4-diarylbutadiene derivatives, and mixtures thereof. Assets providing a well-being effect such as those mimicking the effects of beta-endorphins to improve skin barrier function, such as those cited in US Patent Application 2006069032; the stimulating assets the synthesis of beta-endorphins such as an extract of the plant Tephrosia purpurea.
Les actifs amincissants peuvent être notamment choisis parmi : les agents inhibiteurs de la lipoprotéine Iipase tels que ceux décrits dans le brevet US2003086949 (Coletica) et en particulier un extrait de liane du Pérou (Uncaria tomentosa); les actifs drainants, notamment l'hesperitine laurate (Flavagrum™), or quercitine caprylate (Flavenger™); les agents inhibiteurs de l'enzyme phosphodiestarase, les agents activateurs de l'adenylate cyclase, l'AMPc et/ou les actifs capable de piéger la spermine et/ou la spermidine. On peut citer à titre d'exemple de ces actifs un extrait de racine de Coleus Forskohlii, un extrait de cecropia obtusa, d'Uva lactuca, la caféine, la forskoline, la théophylline, la théobromine et/ou leurs dérivés, un produit de kappa carraghénanes hydrolysé dénommé Slimexcess™ commercialisé par BASF Beauty Care Solutions France SAS et/ou leurs mélanges.  The slimming active agents may be chosen especially from: lipoprotein Iipase inhibiting agents such as those described in patent US2003086949 (Coletica) and in particular a vine extract from Peru (Uncaria tomentosa); draining active ingredients, including hesperitin laurate (Flavagrum ™), or quercitin caprylate (Flavenger ™); inhibitors of the phosphodiesterase enzyme, activating agents of adenylate cyclase, cAMP and / or active agents capable of entrapping spermine and / or spermidine. Examples of such active ingredients are a Coleus Forskohlii root extract, an extract of cecropia obtusa, Uva lactuca, caffeine, forskolin, theophylline, theobromine and / or their derivatives, a product of hydrolyzed carrageenan kappa called Slimexcess ™ marketed by BASF Beauty Care Solutions France SAS and / or their mixtures.
Dans un mode de réalisation particulier la composition cosmétique selon la présente invention ne contient pas d'agent dépigmentant et/ou antityrosinase et/ou inhibant la mélanogénèse.  In a particular embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the present invention does not contain a depigmenting agent and / or antityrosinase and / or inhibiting melanogenesis.
De nombreux ingrédients cosmétiques topiquement acceptables et actifs sont connus par l'homme du métier pour améliorer la santé et/ou l'apparence physique de la peau et/ou les muqueuses et/ou du cuir chevelu. L'homme du métier sait formuler les compositions cosmétiques pour obtenir les meilleurs effets.  Many topically acceptable and active cosmetic ingredients are known to those skilled in the art for improving the health and / or physical appearance of the skin and / or mucous membranes and / or scalp. The person skilled in the art knows how to formulate the cosmetic compositions to obtain the best effects.
D'autre part les composés décrits dans la présente invention peuvent avoir un effet de synergie lorsqu'ils sont combinés les uns aux autres. Ces combinaisons sont également couvertes par la présente invention. Le CTFA Cosmetic Ingrédient Handbook, Second Edition (1992) décrit différents ingrédients cosmétiques et pharmaceutiques utilisés couramment dans l'industrie cosmétique, qui sont en particulier adaptés à une utilisation topique. Des exemples de ces classes d'ingrédients comprennent, sans en être limité les composés suivants: abrasif, absorbants, composé à but esthétique tel que les parfums ; les pigments ; les colorants ; les huiles essentielles ;les astringents tels que l'huile de clou de girofle, menthol, camphre, l'huile d'eucalyptus, eugénol, menthyl lactate, distillât d'hamélis ; les agents anti-acné ; les agents anti- floculants ; les agents antimousse ; les agents antimicrobiens tels que iodopropyl butylcarbamate ; les antioxydants tels que l'acide ascorbique; les liants ; les additives biologiques ; les agents tampon ; les agents gonflants ; les agents chélatants ; les additifs ; les agents biocides ; les dénaturants ; les épaississants ; et les vitamines ; les matériaux formant des films ; les polymères ; les agents opacifiants ; les ajusteurs de pH ; les agents réducteurs ; les agents de conditionnement tels que les humectants, et les dérivés ou équivalents de ceux-ci. On the other hand, the compounds described in the present invention can have a synergistic effect when combined with each other. These combinations are also covered by the present invention. The CTFA Cosmetic Ingredient Handbook, Second Edition (1992) describes various cosmetic and pharmaceutical ingredients commonly used in the cosmetics industry, which are particularly suitable for topical use. Examples of these classes of ingredients include, but are not limited to, the following: abrasive, absorbent, aesthetic compound such as perfumes; pigments; dyes; essential oils, astringents such as clove oil, menthol, camphor, eucalyptus oil, eugenol, menthyl lactate, hamelite distillate; anti-acne agents; anti-flocculants; antifoam agents; antimicrobial agents such as iodopropyl butylcarbamate; antioxidants such as ascorbic acid; binders; biological additives; buffer agents; blowing agents; chelating agents; additives; biocidal agents; denaturants; thickeners; and vitamins; film forming materials; polymers; opacifying agents; pH adjusters; reducing agents; conditioning agents such as humectants, and derivatives or equivalents thereof.
Dans encore un autre mode de réalisation particulier de la présente invention, l'extrait de Tapirira guyanensis selon l'invention, préférentiellement obtenu par extraction aqueuse est dissout dans un solvant notamment polaire, tel que l'eau, un alcool, un polyol, un glycol, ou un de leurs mélanges, préférentiellement un mélange hydroglycolique, encore préférentiellement contenant un glycol choisi parmi le caprylyl glycol, l'hexylène glycol et leurs mélanges. In yet another particular embodiment of the present invention, the Tapirira guyanensis extract according to the invention, preferably obtained by aqueous extraction, is dissolved in a particularly polar solvent, such as water, an alcohol, a polyol, a polyol. glycol, or a mixture thereof, preferentially a glycolic mixture, more preferably containing a glycol selected from caprylyl glycol, hexylene glycol and mixtures thereof.
De manière particulièrement avantageuse, l'extrait selon l'invention est solubilisé dans une solution aqueuse comprenant de l'hexylène glycol, du caprylyl glycol ou leur mélange, avantageusement de l'hexylène glycol et du caprylyl glycol. In a particularly advantageous manner, the extract according to the invention is solubilized in an aqueous solution comprising hexylene glycol, caprylyl glycol or their mixture, advantageously hexylene glycol and caprylyl glycol.
De façon avantageuse la solution aqueuse dans laquelle est solubilisé l'extrait de Tapirira guyanensis selon l'invention comprend de l'hexylène glycol, en particulier entre 0,1 et 10 % en poids d'hexylène glycol par rapport au poids total la solution aqueuse, plus particulièrement entre 1 et 5 % en poids d'hexylène glycol par rapport au poids total la solution aqueuse.  Advantageously, the aqueous solution in which the Tapirira guyanensis extract is solubilized according to the invention comprises hexylene glycol, in particular between 0.1 and 10% by weight of hexylene glycol relative to the total weight of the aqueous solution. more particularly between 1 and 5% by weight of hexylene glycol relative to the total weight of the aqueous solution.
De façon particulière, la solution aqueuse dans laquelle est solubilisé l'extrait de Tapirira guyanensis selon l'invention comprend du caprylyl glycol, en particulier entre 0,01 et 5 % en poids de caprylyl glycol par rapport au poids total la solution aqueuse, plus particulièrement entre 0,1 et 1 % en poids de caprylyl glycol par rapport au poids total la solution aqueuse.  In particular, the aqueous solution in which the Tapirira guyanensis extract is solubilized according to the invention comprises caprylyl glycol, in particular between 0.01 and 5% by weight of caprylyl glycol relative to the total weight of the aqueous solution, plus particularly between 0.1 and 1% by weight of caprylyl glycol relative to the total weight of the aqueous solution.
De façon particulièrement avantageuse la solution aqueuse dans laquelle est solubilisé l'extrait de Tapirira guyanensis selon l'invention comprend de l'hexylène glycol et du caprylyl glycol, en particulier dans les proportions indiquées ci-dessus. Particularly advantageously, the aqueous solution in which the Tapirira guyanensis extract is solubilized according to the invention comprises hexylene glycol and caprylyl glycol, in particular in the proportions indicated above.
Avantageusement l'extrait de Tapirira guyanensis selon l'invention, préférentiel lement obtenu par extraction aqueuse est solubilisé dans la solution aqueuse en une teneur comprise entre 0,1 et 10 % en poids par rapport au poids total de la solution aqueuse, en particulier comprise entre 0,5 et 5% en poids par rapport au poids total de la solution aqueuse. En particulier cette solution aqueuse comprend de l'hexylène glycol et du caprylyl glycol, avantageusement dans les proportions indiquées ci-dessus pour ces composants.  Advantageously, the extract of Tapirira guyanensis according to the invention, preferably obtained by aqueous extraction, is solubilized in the aqueous solution in a content of between 0.1 and 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the aqueous solution, in particular comprised between 0.5 and 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the aqueous solution. In particular, this aqueous solution comprises hexylene glycol and caprylyl glycol, advantageously in the proportions indicated above for these components.
La solution aqueuse dans laquelle est solubilisé l'extrait selon l'invention peut comprendre un agent épaississant et/ou structurant tel que la gomme de xanthane, avantageusement en une teneur comprise entre 0,01 et 5 % en poids par rapport au poids total la solution aqueuse, en particulier entre 0,1 et 1 % en poids par rapport au poids total de la solution aqueuse. La présente invention concerne en outre un procédé de soin cosmétique caractérisé en ce qu'elle comprend l'application sur au moins une zone concernée de la peau saine et/ou muqueuse saine et/ou du cuir chevelu sain, en particulier d'un être humain, d'un extrait de Tapirira guyanensis ou d'une composition cosmétique comprenant un tel extrait pour stimuler l'expression du perlécane et/ou du dystroglycane et/ou du collagène XVIII et/ou de la VE-cadhérine et/ou de la claudine-5, en particulier dans la matrice extracellulaire et/ou dans la membrane basale épithéliale, notamment la jonction dermo-épidermique. The aqueous solution in which the extract according to the invention is solubilized may comprise a thickening and / or structuring agent such as xanthan gum, advantageously in a content between 0.01 and 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the aqueous solution, in particular between 0.1 and 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the aqueous solution. The present invention further relates to a method of cosmetic care characterized in that it comprises the application to at least one area concerned of healthy skin and / or healthy mucosa and / or healthy scalp, in particular of a being of an extract of Tapirira guyanensis or a cosmetic composition comprising such an extract for stimulating the expression of perlecane and / or dystroglycan and / or collagen XVIII and / or VE-cadherin and / or claudin-5, in particular in the extracellular matrix and / or in the basal epithelial membrane, in particular the dermal-epidermal junction.
Avantageusement ce procédé de soin cosmétique est pour prévenir et/ou lutter contre le vieillissement de la peau et/ou des muqueuses et/ou du cuir chevelu notamment chronobiologique et/ou photobiologique, pour prévenir et/ou lutter contre la diminution de l'homéostasie de la peau et/ou des muqueuses et/ou du cuir chevelu et/ou pour l'améliorer, en particulier dans l'épiderme, pour renforcer la membrane basale épithéliale de la peau et/ou des muqueuses et/ou du cuir chevelu, préférentiellement la jonction dermo-épidermique, pour améliorer la prolifération et/ou la différenciation des kératinocytes, notamment au niveau épidermique, en particulier lié au vieillissement de la peau et/ou des muqueuses et/ou du cuir chevelu, pour prévenir et/ou lutter contre une diminution de la vascularisation de la peau et/ou des muqueuses et/ou du cuir chevelu et/ou pour l'améliorer, en particulier pour améliorer la structure des capillaires de la peau et/ou des muqueuses et/ou du cuir chevelu notamment cutanés, pour améliorer la morphogenèse de l'épithélium, de la peau et/ou des muqueuses et/ou du cuir chevelu préférentiellement l'épiderme, pour restaurer l'architecture épithéliale de la peau et/ou des muqueuses et/ou du cuir chevelu, préférentiellement épidermique, en particulier des peaux et/ou des muqueuses et/ou du cuir chevelu ayant subi un vieillissement notamment chronobiologique, pour améliorer le teint de la peau et/ou des muqueuses, notamment l'homogénéiser, pour améliorer la fermeté et/ou la densité de la peau et/ou des muqueuses et/ou du cuir chevelu, et/ou pour lutter contre la diminution de l'épaisseur de l'épithélium de la peau et/ou des muqueuses et/ou du cuir chevelu, préférentiellement l'épiderme, et/ou pour augmenter l'épaisseur de l'épithélium de la peau et/ou des muqueuses et/ou du cuir chevelu, préférentiellement l'épiderme, et/ou le traitement et/ou la prévention des gerçures, et/ou pour lutter contre et/ou traiter et/ou prévenir la rétention d'eau et/ou la cellulite et/ou les poches périorbitaires et/ou pour augmenter et/ou maintenir l'adhésion cellulaire. Advantageously, this cosmetic care method is for preventing and / or combating the aging of the skin and / or the mucous membranes and / or the scalp, particularly chronobiological and / or photobiological, to prevent and / or fight against the decrease in homeostasis. of the skin and / or the mucous membranes and / or the scalp and / or to improve it, in particular in the epidermis, to strengthen the basal epithelial membrane of the skin and / or the mucous membranes and / or the scalp, preferentially the dermal-epidermal junction, to improve the proliferation and / or differentiation of keratinocytes, especially at the epidermal level, in particular related to the aging of the skin and / or the mucous membranes and / or the scalp, to prevent and / or fight against a decrease of the vascularization of the skin and / or the mucous membranes and / or the scalp and / or to improve it, in particular to improve the structure of the capillaries of the skin and / or the mucous membranes and / or cu particularly hairy scalp, to improve the morphogenesis of the epithelium, the skin and / or the mucous membranes and / or the scalp preferentially the epidermis, for restoring the epithelial architecture of the skin and / or the mucous membranes and / or the scalp, preferentially epidermal, in particular skin and / or mucosa and / or scalp having undergone aging, especially chronobiological, to improve the complexion of the skin and / or mucous membranes, in particular to homogenize it, to improve the firmness and / or the density of the skin and / or the mucous membranes and / or the scalp, and / or to combat the decrease the thickness of the epithelium of the skin and / or the mucous membranes and / or the scalp, preferentially the epidermis, and / or to increase the thickness of the epithelium of the skin and / or mucous membranes and / / or the scalp, preferentially the epidermis, and / or the treatment and / or the prevention of cracks, and / or to fight against and / or treat and / or prevent the retention of water and / or cellulite and / or periorbital pockets and / or to increase and / or maintain cell adhesion.
La présente invention concerne également une composition cosmétique, avantageusement destinée à une application par voie topique, caractérisée en ce qu'elle comprend un extrait de Tapirira guyanensis, en particulier tel que définie ci-dessus, et un excipient cosmétique avantageusement topiquement acceptable. Avantageusement la composition cosmétique est telle que définie ci-dessus. The present invention also relates to a cosmetic composition, advantageously intended for topical application, characterized in that it comprises an extract of Tapirira guyanensis, in particular as defined above, and a cosmetic excipient which is advantageously topically acceptable. Advantageously, the cosmetic composition is as defined above.
La présente invention a également pour objet un milieu de culture de cellules, en particulier de cellules endothéliales et/ou de kératinocytes en culture, et/ou des modèles tridimensionnels en contenant tels que des modèles d'épidermes, de capillaires, de vaisseaux ou de peaux reconstruits, comprenant l'extrait de Tapirira guyanensis selon l'invention, en particulier tel que défini ci-dessus, et avantageusement un composé choisi parmi le sérum de veau fœtal, l'extrait pituitaire, ou une hormone, un acide aminé, un sucre, un facteur de croissance, une protéine recombinante et leurs mélanges. The subject of the present invention is also a culture medium for cells, in particular endothelial cells and / or cultured keratinocytes, and / or three-dimensional models containing them, such as models of epidermis, capillaries, vessels or reconstructed skins, comprising the extract of Tapirira guyanensis according to the invention, in particular as defined above, and advantageously a compound chosen from fetal calf serum, pituitary extract, or a hormone, an amino acid, a sugar, a growth factor, a recombinant protein and mixtures thereof.
Dans un premier mode particulier de réalisation de l'invention, l'extrait selon l'invention est ajouté directement dans le milieu de culture selon l'invention lors de la fabrication dudit milieu.  In a first particular embodiment of the invention, the extract according to the invention is added directly to the culture medium according to the invention during the manufacture of said medium.
Dans un second mode particulier de réalisation de l'invention, l'extrait selon l'invention est ajouté extemporanément dans le milieu de culture selon l'invention.  In a second particular embodiment of the invention, the extract according to the invention is added extemporaneously in the culture medium according to the invention.
Dans un 3eme mode particulier de réalisation de l'invention, l'extrait selon l'invention est ajouté extemporanément en combinaison avec un composé choisi parmi un groupe comprenant du sérum de veau fœtal, un extrait pituitaire, une hormone, un acide aminé, un sucre, un facteur de croissance, une protéine recombinante ou leurs mélanges. In a 3 rd particular embodiment of the invention, the extract according to the invention is added extemporaneously in combination with a compound selected from a group consisting of fetal bovine serum, pituitary extract, a hormone, an amino acid, a sugar, a growth factor, a recombinant protein or their mixtures.
Le milieu de culture selon l'invention peut être destiné à la culture de kératinocytes ou de cellules endothéliales pour des applications médicales, pharmaceutiques, dermatologiques. The culture medium according to the invention may be intended for culturing keratinocytes or endothelial cells for medical, pharmaceutical and dermatological applications.
L'ajout de l'extrait de Tapirira guyanensis est de nature à faciliter et/ou raccourcir les étapes de culture, et/ou améliorer la qualité des cultures et construction cellulaire (tapis cellulaire, pseudoépiderme, épithéliums reconstruits).  The addition of Tapirira guyanensis extract is likely to facilitate and / or shorten the culture steps, and / or to improve the quality of the cultures and cellular construction (cellular carpet, pseudoepidermis, reconstructed epithelia).
De manière préférentielle, le milieu de culture selon l'invention comprend un extrait de Tapirira guyanensis à une concentration comprise entre 1.10"4 et 10% en poids par rapport au poids total du milieu de culture, préférentiel lement entre 0,001 et 0,1 % en poids par rapport au poids total du milieu de culture. Preferably, the culture medium according to the invention comprises an extract of Tapirira guyanensis at a concentration of between 1.10 -4 and 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the culture medium, preferably between 0.001 and 0.1%. by weight relative to the total weight of the culture medium.
La présente invention a ainsi pour objet l'utilisation de l'extrait de Tapirira guyanensis selon l'invention dans un milieu de culture et/ou du milieu de culture comprenant l'extrait pour stimuler l'expression du perlécane et/ou du dystroglycane et/ou de la VE-cadhérine et/ou de la claudine-5 et/ou du collagène XVIII, en particulier dans la matrice extracellulaire et/ou dans la membrane basale épithéliale, notamment la jonction dermo-épidermique, préférentiellement dans des cellules en culture, en particulier choisies parmi les cellules endothéliales et les kératinocytes. The subject of the present invention is therefore the use of the Tapirira guyanensis extract according to the invention in a culture medium and / or culture medium comprising the extract for stimulating the expression of perlecane and / or dystroglycan and / or VE-cadherin and / or claudin-5 and / or collagen XVIII, in particular in the extracellular matrix and / or in the basal epithelial membrane, in particular the dermal-epidermal junction, preferentially in cells in culture, in particular chosen from endothelial cells and keratinocytes.
D'autres buts, caractéristiques et avantages de l'invention apparaîtront clairement à l'homme de l'art suite à la lecture des figures et de la description explicative qui fait référence à des exemples qui sont donnés seulement à titre d'illustration et qui ne sauraient en aucune façon limiter la portée de l'invention. Other objects, features and advantages of the invention will become apparent to those skilled in the art after reading the figures and the explanatory description which refers to examples which are given by way of illustration only and which in no way limit the scope of the invention.
Les exemples font partie intégrante de la présente invention et toute caractéristique apparaissant nouvelle par rapport à un état de la technique antérieure quelconque à partir de la description prise dans son ensemble, incluant les exemples, fait partie intégrante de l'invention dans sa fonction et dans sa généralité.  The examples are an integral part of the present invention and any features appearing novel from any prior art from the description taken as a whole, including the examples, form an integral part of the invention in its function and its generality.
Ainsi, chaque exemple a une portée générale.  Thus, each example has a general scope.
D'autre part, dans les exemples, et sauf indication contraire, la température est exprimée en degré Celsius, et la pression est la pression atmosphérique.  On the other hand, in the examples, and unless otherwise indicated, the temperature is in degrees Celsius, and the pressure is the atmospheric pressure.
La figure 1 représente l'effet d'un extrait de Tapirira guyanensis selon l'invention sur l'épaisseur de l'épiderme (exemple 5). La figure 1A représente une coupe observée en microscopie du modèle de peau reconstruit non traité, la figurelB celle d'un même modèle traité avec un extrait de Tapirira guyanensis à 0,05 % (p/p) et la figure 1C celle d'un modèle traité avec un extrait de Tapirira guyanensis à 0,1 % (p/p).  Figure 1 shows the effect of an extract of Tapirira guyanensis according to the invention on the thickness of the epidermis (Example 5). FIG. 1A represents a section observed in microscopy of the untreated reconstructed skin model, the figure of the same model treated with an extract of Tapirira guyanensis at 0.05% (w / w) and FIG. model treated with 0.1% (w / w) Tapirira guyanensis extract.
La figure 2 représente l'effet d'un extrait de Tapirira guyanensis selon l'invention sur l'expression protéique de la VE-cadhérine (Fig. 2A et B) et de la claudine-5 (Fig. 2C et D) au niveau des jonctions cellulaires de cellules endotheliales microvasculaires humaines après immunomarquage (A. et C. Cellules non traitées ; B. et D. Cellules traitées avec un extrait de Tapirira guyanensis selon l'invention à 0,8 %) (Exemple 6). Exemple 1 : préparation d'extrait de Tapirira auvanensis selon l'invention par extraction aqueuse. Fig. 2 shows the effect of an extract of Tapirira guyanensis according to the invention on the protein expression of VE-cadherin (Fig. 2A and B) and claudin-5 (Fig. 2C and D) at the level of cellular junctions of human microvascular endothelial cells after immunostaining (A. and C. Untreated cells B. and D. Cells treated with Tapirira guyanensis extract according to the invention at 0.8%) (Example 6). Example 1 Preparation of extract of Tapirira auvanensis according to the invention by aqueous extraction.
a) Les feuilles de Tapirira guyanensis ont été broyées puis mises à macérer dans l'eau pendant 2 heures à température ambiante c'est-à-dire entre 18 et 25°C, ici à environ 20°C, la teneur en feuilles de Tapirira guyanensis broyées étant de 1% en poids par rapport au poids total plante/eau. a) The leaves of Tapirira guyanensis were crushed and then macerated in water for 2 hours at room temperature, that is to say between 18 and 25 ° C, here at about 20 ° C, the leaf content of Tapirira guyanensis crushed being 1% by weight relative to the total weight plant / water.
Les fractions insolubles ont été séparées par filtration à 0,45pm et on récupère le liquide qui contient l'extrait aqueux selon l'invention.  The insoluble fractions were filtered off at 0.45 μm and the liquid which contains the aqueous extract according to the invention is recovered.
b) Les feuilles de Tapirira guyanensis ont été broyées puis mises à macérer dans l'eau à 1% (p/p), à une température préférentiellement comprise entre 0 et 20°C, préférentiellement à 4°C. b) The leaves of Tapirira guyanensis were ground and then macerated in water at 1% (w / w) at a temperature preferably between 0 and 20 ° C, preferably at 4 ° C.
La durée de macération est avantageusement comprise entre 30min et The duration of maceration is advantageously between 30 minutes and
24heures, sous agitation, ici 16 heures. 24 hours, under agitation, here 16 hours.
La solution est centrifugée, préférentiellement pendant 10min à 8000 RPM et le surnageant est récupéré. Le surnageant est ultrafiltré sur filtres à différents seuil de coupure et notamment à 0,22 μΜ.  The solution is centrifuged, preferably for 10 min at 8000 RPM and the supernatant is recovered. The supernatant is ultrafiltered on filters at different cut-off points and in particular at 0.22 μΜ.
L'extrait ainsi obtenu peut être utilisé directement sous forme liquide. Cet extrait a été testé à différents dosages dans le milieu de culture final dans les exemples 2 à 6 suivants.  The extract thus obtained can be used directly in liquid form. This extract was tested at different assays in the final culture medium in the following Examples 2 to 6.
Cet extrait peut également être formulé sous la forme d'un ingrédient cosmétique tel que présenté en exemple7. This extract can also be formulated in the form of a cosmetic ingredient as exemplified7.
c) Les feuilles de Tapirira guyanensis ont été broyées puis mises à macérer à 1% (p/p) dans un mélange eau/butylène glycol à 75%/25% à une température préférentiellement comprise entre 0 et 20°C, ici à 4°C. La durée de macération est avantageusement comprise entre 30min et 24heures, sous agitation, ici 10 heures. c) The leaves of Tapirira guyanensis were crushed then macerated at 1% (w / w) in a 75% / 25% water / butylene glycol mixture at a temperature preferably between 0 and 20 ° C, here at 4 ° C. The duration of maceration is advantageously between 30 min and 24 hours, with stirring, here 10 hours.
La solution est centrifugée, préférentiellement pendant 10min à 8000 RPM et le surnageant est récupéré. Le surnageant est ultrafiltré sur filtres à différents seuil de coupure et notamment à 0.45μΜ.  The solution is centrifuged, preferably for 10 min at 8000 RPM and the supernatant is recovered. The supernatant is ultrafiltered on filters at different cut-off points and in particular at 0.45μΜ.
L'extrait ainsi obtenu est ensuite séché notamment sur support de type maltodextrine puis resolubilisé dans de l'eau à 1% (p/p).  The extract thus obtained is then dried in particular on a maltodextrin-type support and then resolubilized in 1% (w / w) water.
Exemple 2 : Effet d'un extrait de Tapîrira auvanensis selon l'invention sur l'expression protéiaue du perlécane dans les kératinocvtes. Example 2 Effect of an extract of Tapirra auvanensis according to the invention on the protein expression of perlecane in keratinocytes.
Protocole :  Protocol:
Un test fluoroimmunoassay (FIA) a été réalisé et consiste à révéler l'antigène d'intérêt, ici, le perlécane, en fluorescence. Cette méthode est semi-quantitative, hautement sensible et reproductible, et présente l'avantage de détecter la protéine d'intérêt sous sa forme native dans son environnement, sans procédé de dénaturation. Les kératinocytes issus d'une biopsie de peau abdominale de donneurs âgés de 30, 50 et 61 ans sont extraits et fixés au fond des puits à une densité de 5000 cellules par puits, et croissent pendant 3 jours dans un milieu complet c'est-à-dire contenant du sérum de veau fœtal (SVF), puis 16heures en milieu défini sans SVF. Ils sont ensuite cultivés pendant 48heures soit avec l'extrait obtenu à l'exemple lb) testé à différents dosages en pourcentage en poids dans le milieu final de culture ou sans l'extrait dit contrôle. Les cellules sont alors lavées en tampon phosphate salin (PBS) avant d'être fixées, perméabilisées, et démasquées. Avant d'appliquer l'anticorps primaire (anti-perlécane) pendant 90 minutes, les cellules sont saturées à la BSA (albumine sérique bovine) à 1% pendant 1 heure. Après des lavages en tampon PBS, l'anticorps secondaire lié au fluorocrome FITC (fluoresceine isothiocyanate) est incubé 2 heures. Les cellules sont alors lavées en tampon PBS, puis solubilisées avec 20 mM d'hydroxyde d'ammonium et 0,5% de triton 100%. La fluorescence est alors lue sur un spectrofluorimètre avec les filtres adéquats. Les résultats sont rassemblés dans le tableau 1 ci-dessous. L'expérience est effectuée 6fois (n=6). Les valeurs du tableau représentent les valeurs en pourcentage rapportées aux cellules contrôles non traitées. Les valeurs représentent la moyenne de plusieurs expériences sur différents lots d'extraits. « Moy » désigne la moyenne et « EC » désigne l'écart type. A fluoroimmunoassay (FIA) test has been performed and consists of revealing the antigen of interest, here, perlecane, in fluorescence. This method is semi-quantitative, highly sensitive and reproducible, and has the advantage of detecting the protein of interest in its native form in its environment, without denaturing process. Keratinocytes from an abdominal skin biopsy of donors aged 30, 50 and 61 years are extracted and fixed at the bottom of the wells at a density of 5000 cells per well, and grow for 3 days in complete medium. ie containing fetal calf serum (FCS), then 16 hours in defined medium without FBS. They are then cultured for 48 hours or with the extract obtained in Example lb) tested at different dosages in percent by weight in the final culture medium or without the so-called control extract. The cells are then washed in phosphate buffered saline (PBS) before being fixed, permeabilized, and unmasked. Before applying the primary antibody (anti-perlecane) for 90 minutes, the cells are saturated with BSA (bovine serum albumin) at 1% for 1 hour. After washes in PBS buffer, the secondary antibody bound to FITC fluorocrome (fluorescein isothiocyanate) is incubated for 2 hours. The cells are then washed in PBS buffer and then solubilized with 20 mM ammonium hydroxide and 0.5% 100% triton. The fluorescence is then read on a spectrofluorimeter with the appropriate filters. The results are summarized in Table 1 below. The experiment is performed 6 times (n = 6). The values in the table represent the percentage values reported to the untreated control cells. The values represent the average of several experiments on different batches of extracts. "Moy" means the average and "EC" means the standard deviation.
Tableau 1 : pourcentage d'expression protéique du perlécane dans des kératinocytes de donneurs âgés de 30, 50 et 61 ans en fonction de la dose d'extrait utilisée.  Table 1 Percent protein expression of perlecane in keratinocytes of donors aged 30, 50 and 61 years depending on the dose of extract used.
Conclusions : L'extrait selon l'invention a induit une augmentation significative de l'expression protéique du perlécane dans les kératinocytes. Cette augmentation de l'expression protéique a été observée quel que soit l'âge du donneur. Conclusions: The extract according to the invention has induced a significant increase in the protein expression of perlecane in keratinocytes. This increase in protein expression has been observed regardless of the age of the donor.
L'extrait selon l'invention induit donc une amélioration de la cohésion structurale de l'épithélium, préférentiellement l'épiderme. The extract according to the invention thus induces an improvement in the structural cohesion of the epithelium, preferentially the epidermis.
Exemple 3 : Effet d'un extrait de Tapirira uvanensis selon l'invention sur l'expression protéique du perlécane dans les cellules endothéliales. Example 3 Effect of an extract of Tapirira uvanensis according to the invention on the protein expression of perlecane in endothelial cells.
La technique est la même que dans l'exemple 2 sauf qu'elle est mise en œuvre sur des cellules endothéliales extraites de biopsie de peau abdominale de donneurs âgés de 38 ans ou 28 ans. The technique is the same as in Example 2 except that it is performed on endothelial cells extracted from abdominal skin biopsy of donors aged 38 or 28 years.
Les résultats sont rassemblés dans les tableaux 2 à 3 ci-dessous ; « Moy » désigne la moyenne et « EC » désigne l'écart type. The results are summarized in Tables 2 to 3 below; "Moy" means the average and "EC" means the standard deviation.
Tableau 2 : pourcentage d'expression du perlécane dans les cellules endothéliales d'un donneur de 38 ans en fonction de la dose d'extrait utilisée. Table 2 Percentage expression of perlecane in the endothelial cells of a 38-year-old donor according to the dose of extract used.
n=6 ; l'extrait de Tapirira guyanensis est obtenu selon l'exemple lb) testé à différents dosages en pourcentage en poids dans le milieu final de culture. n = 6; the extract of Tapirira guyanensis is obtained according to Example 1b) tested at different dosages in percent by weight in the final culture medium.
Moy EC  EC average
Contrôle 100 18,2 Control 100 18.2
Extrait de Tapirira guyanensis 0,1% 145,7 6,5Tapirira guyanensis extract 0.1% 145.7 6.5
Extrait de Tapirira guyanensis 0,2 % 147,2 11,3Tapirira guyanensis extract 0.2% 147.2 11.3
Extrait de Tapirira guyanensis 0,4 % 160,4 11,1Tapirira guyanensis extract 0.4% 160.4 11.1
Extrait de Tapirira guyanensis 0,8% 238,6 31,4 Tableau 3 : pourcentage d'expression protéique du perlécane dans les cellules endothéliales d'un donneur de 28 ans en fonction de l'actif utilisé. n=6 ; l'extrait de Tapirira guyanensis est obtenu selon l'exemple lb) testé à différents dosages en pourcentage en poids dans le milieu final de culture. Tapirira guyanensis extract 0.8% 238.6 31.4 Table 3 Percent protein expression of perlecane in endothelial cells of a 28-year-old donor depending on the active ingredient used. n = 6; the extract of Tapirira guyanensis is obtained according to Example 1b) tested at different dosages in percent by weight in the final culture medium.
Conclusions :  Conclusions:
L'extrait selon l'invention a augmenté significativement aux doses testées l'expression protéique du perlécane dans les cellules endothéliales, ce qui témoigne de ses propriétés à améliorer la cohésion structurale microvasculaire. Cette augmentation a été observée quel que soit l'âge des donneurs.  The extract according to the invention significantly increased the protein expression of perlecane in endothelial cells at the doses tested, which demonstrates its properties to improve microvascular structural cohesion. This increase was observed regardless of the age of the donors.
Exemple 4 : Effet d'un extrait de Tapirira auvanensis selon l'invention sur l'expression protéique du dvstroqlvcane dans les kératinocvtes. Example 4 Effect of an extract of Tapirira auvanensis according to the invention on the protein expression of dvstroqlvcane in keratinocytes.
La technique est la même que dans l'exemple 2 sauf que l'antigène d'intérêt est ici le dystroglycane et l'anticorps utilisé est un anti- dystroglycane.  The technique is the same as in Example 2 except that the antigen of interest is dystroglycan and the antibody used is an anti-dystroglycan.
Les résultats sont rassemblés dans le tableau 4 ci-après ; « Moy » désigne la moyenne et « EC » désigne l'écart type. Tableau 4 : pourcentage d'expression protéique du dystroglycane dans les kératinocytes d'un donneur de 50 ans en fonction la dose d'extrait utilisée. n=6 ; l'extrait de Tapirira guyanensis est obtenu selon l'exemple lb) testé à différents dosages en pourcentage en poids dans le milieu final de culture. The results are collated in Table 4 below; "Moy" means the average and "EC" means the standard deviation. Table 4: percentage of protein expression of dystroglycan in the keratinocytes of a 50-year-old donor depending on the dose of extract used. n = 6; the extract of Tapirira guyanensis is obtained according to Example 1b) tested at different dosages in percent by weight in the final culture medium.
Conclusions:  conclusions:
L'extrait selon l'invention a augmenté significativement aux doses testées l'expression protéique du dystroglycane dans les kératinocytes. L'extrait selon l'invention induit donc une amélioration de la cohésion structurale de l'épithélium, préférentiel lement l'épiderme.  The extract according to the invention significantly increased the protein expression of dystroglycan in keratinocytes at the doses tested. The extract according to the invention therefore induces an improvement in the structural cohesion of the epithelium, preferably the epidermis.
Exemple 5 : Effet de l'extrait de Tapirira auvanensis selon l'invention sur l'épaisseur de répiderme. EXAMPLE 5 Effect of the Tapirira auvanensis extract according to the invention on the thickness of the reperm.
Un extrait aqueux de Tapirira guyanensis préparé selon l'exemple lb) a été testé à des concentrations finales de 0,05% et 0,1 % en poids par rapport au poids total du milieu de culture selon l'invention, pour son effet sur la morphogenèse de l'épiderme. An aqueous extract of Tapirira guyanensis prepared according to Example 1b) was tested at final concentrations of 0.05% and 0.1% by weight relative to the total weight of the culture medium according to the invention, for its effect on the morphogenesis of the epidermis.
L'extrait selon l'invention a été testé sur un modèle de peau reconstruite de type Mimeskin®, connu de l'homme du métier.  The extract according to the invention was tested on a reconstructed skin model of the Mimeskin® type, known to those skilled in the art.
Brièvement, le modèle de peau est obtenu par culture de fibroblastes durant 35 jours, stade à partir duquel la différenciation épidermique s'effectue et les fibroblastes se différencient en kératinocytes. Après 35 jours de culture, les cellules ont été rincées avec un tampon Phosphate Buffer Saline (PBS) contenant du calcium, du magnésium et des antibiotiques puis fixées en méthanol froid durant 10 minutes. Briefly, the skin model is obtained by culturing fibroblasts for 35 days, at which stage epidermal differentiation occurs and fibroblasts differentiate into keratinocytes. After 35 days of culture, the cells were rinsed with Phosphate Buffer Saline (PBS) buffer containing calcium, magnesium and antibiotics and then fixed in cold methanol for 10 minutes.
Des coupes ont été effectuées et l'épaisseur de l'épiderme mesurée en μητι dans les échantillons traités avec l'extrait selon l'invention ou sans (Contrôle) (Tableau 5). Sections were made and the thickness of the epidermis measured in μητι in the samples treated with the extract according to the invention or without (Control) (Table 5).
Tableau 5 : Epaisseur de l'épiderme (μηι) mesurée au niveau des échantillons traités ou non avec l'extrait selon l'invention (n=4) ; « Moy » désigne la moyenne et « EC » désigne l'écart type.  Table 5: Thickness of the epidermis (μηι) measured at the level of samples treated or not with the extract according to the invention (n = 4); "Moy" means the average and "EC" means the standard deviation.
Conclusions : Conclusions:
Une augmentation de l'épaisseur de l'épiderme a été observée lorsque les cellules différenciées en kératinocytes ont été traitées avec un extrait selon l'invention (Figure 1). Cet effet a été observé à chacune des concentrations testées (en pourcentage en poids par rapport au poids total du milieu de culture selon l'invention).  An increase in the thickness of the epidermis was observed when the cells differentiated into keratinocytes were treated with an extract according to the invention (FIG. 1). This effect was observed at each of the concentrations tested (as a percentage by weight relative to the total weight of the culture medium according to the invention).
Exemple 6 : Effet d'un extrait de Tapirira auvanensis selon l'invention sur l'expression protéiaue de la VE-cadhérine et de la claudine-5 au niveau des jonctions cellulaires de cellules endothéliales microvasculaires humaines. Example 6 Effect of an extract of Tapirira auvanensis according to the invention on the protein expression of VE-cadherin and claudin-5 at the cellular junctions of human microvascular endothelial cells.
Matériel et méthodes : Material and methods :
Des cellules endothéliales microvasculaires issues d'une biopsie de sang d'un donneur adulte âgé de 50 ans ont été ensemencées dans un milieu de culture complet en présence de 5 % de FBS (Fetal Bovine Sérum) pendant 10 jours. Microvascular endothelial cells from a biopsy of blood from a 50-year-old adult donor were seeded in a medium complete culture in the presence of 5% FBS (Fetal Bovine Serum) for 10 days.
Lorsque les cellules ont atteint la sub-confluence, la confluence correspondant au stade cellulaire pour lequel 100 % des cellules cultivées adhèrent entre elles, les cellules ont été ensemencées en chambre de culture contenant un milieu de culture EGM2-MV (milieu de culture de cellules endothéliales) contenant 1 % de FBS (en poids par rapport au poids total du milieu de culture) pendant 48 heures, en présence ou non d'un extrait de Tapirira guyanensis selon l'invention (préparé selon l'exemple lb) à 0,8% final en poids par rapport au poids du milieu de culture.  When the cells reached subconfluency, the confluence corresponding to the cellular stage for which 100% of the cultured cells adhere to each other, the cells were inoculated into a culture chamber containing an EGM2-MV culture medium (cell culture medium endothelial) containing 1% FBS (by weight relative to the total weight of the culture medium) for 48 hours, in the presence or absence of an extract of Tapirira guyanensis according to the invention (prepared according to Example 1b) at 0, 8% by weight relative to the weight of the culture medium.
Les cellules ont alors été lavées dans un tampon Phosphate Buffer Saline puis fixées au méthanol glacial pendant 10 min. Un anticorps anti-VE- cadhérine a été ajouté au milieu de culture en vue de réaliser un immunomarquage. Les lames ont ensuite été incubées avec un second anticorps couplé directement à un anticorps anti-claudine-5.  The cells were then washed in Phosphate Saline Buffer buffer and then fixed in ice-cold methanol for 10 min. An anti-VE-cadherin antibody was added to the culture medium to effect immunolabeling. The slides were then incubated with a second antibody directly coupled to an anti-claudin-5 antibody.
Après 3 lavages en PBS, les cellules ont été observées en microscopie confocale. After 3 washes in PBS, the cells were observed by confocal microscopy.
Conclusion : Conclusion:
Les résultats de microscopie confocale sont présentés dans la figure 2. Les résultats montrent que l'extrait de Tapirira guyanensis selon l'invention augmente l'expression protéique de la VE-cadhérine et de la claudine-5 au niveau des jonctions intercellulaires. L'extrait de Tapirira guyanensis favorise donc l'adhésion cellulaire au niveau de la jonction dermo-épidermique. The results of confocal microscopy are shown in FIG. 2. The results show that the extract of Tapirira guyanensis according to the invention increases the protein expression of VE-cadherin and claudin-5 at intercellular junctions. The extract of Tapirira guyanensis therefore promotes cell adhesion at the level of the dermal-epidermal junction.
Exemple 7 : composition comprenant l'extrait selon la présente invention destinée à être incorporée dans une composition cosmétique (ingrédient cosmétique') L'extrait de Tapirira guyanensis est obtenu selon l'exemple lb) et est mélangé avec les autres ingrédients de la formulation suivante : Example 7 composition comprising the extract according to the present invention to be incorporated in a cosmetic composition (cosmetic ingredient ') The extract of Tapirira guyanensis is obtained according to Example 1b) and is mixed with the other ingredients of the following formulation:
Exemple 8 : compositions contenant l'extrait de Tapirira auvanensis selon l'invention. Example 8: compositions containing the extract of Tapirira auvanensis according to the invention.
On procède selon les méthodes connues de l'homme de l'art pour mélanger ensemble les différentes parties A, B, C, D, E, ou F pour préparer une composition selon la présente invention.  The procedure is carried out according to the methods known to those skilled in the art for mixing together the various parts A, B, C, D, E or F to prepare a composition according to the present invention.
Les « produits de l'invention » représentent un extrait de Tapirira guyanensis et de préférence obtenu selon l'exemple lb).  The "products of the invention" represent an extract of Tapirira guyanensis and preferably obtained according to Example 1b).
Les produits de l'invention peuvent également se présenter sous une forme de liposomes contenant 5% de lécithine de soja et incorporant une solution de soja quaternisé (600 g en final) obtenus selon le mode de réalisation suivant :  The products of the invention may also be in the form of liposomes containing 5% of soy lecithin and incorporating a quaternized soy solution (600 g final) obtained according to the following embodiment:
30 g de lécithine de soja, 12 g de solution de soja quaternisé, 1,5 g d'extrait de Tapirira guyanensis préparé selon l'exemple lb) sont introduits dans un pilulier et dilué dans 447 g d'eau pure de laboratoire. Après agitation magnétique pendant 10 minutes à température ambiante, le mélange est homogénéisé violemment pendant 10 minutes, en obtenant ainsi une solution liposomale dans laquelle les liposomes ont une dimension moyenne pouvant varier entre 100 et 800 nanomètres selon les conditions exactes de l'homogénéisation. 30 g of soy lecithin, 12 g of quaternized soy solution, 1.5 g of Tapirira guyanensis extract prepared according to Example 1b) are introduced into a pill box and diluted in 447 g of laboratory pure water. After magnetic stirring for 10 minutes at room temperature, the mixture is homogenized violently for 10 minutes, thus obtaining a liposomal solution in which the liposomes have an average size that can vary between 100 and 800 nanometers according to the exact conditions of the homogenization.
La suspension est ensuite laissée sous agitation douce pendant 1 heure. 90g de butylène glycol, 6g de phenoxyethanol et 6g d'hydroxyéthylcellulose (agent de gélification) sont ensuite ajoutés.  The suspension is then gently stirred for 1 hour. 90 g of butylene glycol, 6 g of phenoxyethanol and 6 g of hydroxyethyl cellulose (gelling agent) are then added.
Formulation cosmétique 8a : Cosmetic formulation 8a:
Eau qsp 100 Water qs 100
Butylène Glycol 2 Butylene Glycol 2
Glycérine 3  Glycerin 3
Sodium Dihydroxycetyl Phosphate, Isopropyl Hydroxycetyl Ether 2  Sodium Dihydroxycetyl Phosphate, Isopropyl Hydroxycetyl Ether 2
B Glycol Stéarate SE 14  B Glycol Stearate SE 14
Triisononaoin 5  Triisononaoin 5
Octyl Cocoate 6  Octyl Cocoate 6
Butylène Glycol, Methylparaben, Ethylparaben, Propylparaben, 2 pH ajusté à 5,5  Butylene Glycol, Methylparaben, Ethylparaben, Propylparaben, 2 pH adjusted to 5.5
D Produits de l'invention 0,01 10  D Products of the invention 0.01 10
%  %
Formulation cosmétique 8b : Cosmetic formulation 8b:
Eau qsp 100 Water qs 100
Butylène Glycol 2Butylene Glycol 2
Glycérine 3Glycerin 3
Polyacrylamide, Isoparaffine, Laureth-7 2,8Polyacrylamide, Isoparaffin, Laureth-7 2.8
B Butylène Glycol, Methylparaben, Ethylparaben, Propylparaben ; 2 B Butylene Glycol, Methylparaben, Ethylparaben, Propylparaben; 2
Phenoxyethanol, Methylparaben, Propylparaben, Butylparaben, 2 Ethylparaben Butylène Glycol Phenoxyethanol, Methylparaben, Propylparaben, Butylparaben, 2 Ethylparaben Butylene Glycol
D Produits de l'invention  D Products of the invention
Formulation cosmétique 8c : Cosmetic formulation 8c:
Carbomer 0,50 Carbomer 0.50
Propylène Glycol 3 Propylene Glycol 3
Glycérol 5  Glycerol 5
Eau qsp 100 Water qs 100
B Octyl Cocoate 5 B Octyl Cocoate 5
Bisabolol 0,30 Dimethicone 0,30 Bisabolol 0.30 Dimethicone 0.30
C Sodium Hydroxide 1,60 D I Phenoxyethanol, Methylparaben, Propylparaben, 0,50 C Sodium Hydroxide 1.60 D I Phenoxyethanol, Methylparaben, Propylparaben, 0.50
Butylparaben, Ethylparaben  Butylparaben, Ethylparaben
E I Parfum 0,30 F I Produits de l'invention 0,01 - 10 %E I Perfume 0.30 F I Products of the invention 0.01 - 10%
Formulation dermatologique 8D sous forme d'une pommade Dermatological formulation 8D in the form of an ointment
Excipients  excipients
Polyéthylène basse densité 5,5  Low density polyethylene 5.5
Paraffine liquide qsp 100  Liquid paraffin qs 100
B Produit de l'invention* 0,001 -0,1  B Product of the invention * 0.001 -0.1
^L'extrait de Tapirira guyanensis est celui décrit en exemple lb) suivi d'une étape de stérilisation et de séchage.  The Tapirira guyanensis extract is that described in Example 1b) followed by a sterilization and drying step.

Claims

REVENDICATIONS
1. Utilisation cosmétique par voie topique d'un extrait de Tapirira guyanensis, pour stimuler l'expression du perlécane et/ou du dystroglycane et/ou de la VE-cadhérine et/ou de la claudine-5, en particulier dans la matrice extracellulaire et/ou dans la membrane basale épithéliale, notamment la jonction dermo-épidermique ; et/ou pour prévenir et/ou lutter contre le vieillissement de la peau et/ou des muqueuses et/ou du cuir chevelu notamment chronobiologique et/ou photobiologique ; et/ou pour prévenir et/ou lutter contre la diminution de l'homéostasie de la peau et/ou des muqueuses et/ou du cuir chevelu et/ou pour l'améliorer, en particulier dans l'épiderme ; et/ou pour renforcer la membrane basale épithéliale de la peau et/ou des muqueuses et/ou du cuir chevelu, préférentiel lement la jonction dermo-épidermique ; et/ou pour améliorer la prolifération et/ou la différenciation des kératinocytes, notamment au niveau épidermique, en particulier lié au vieillissement de la peau et/ou des muqueuses et/ou du cuir chevelu ; et/ou pour prévenir et/ou lutter contre une diminution de la vascularisation de la peau et/ou des muqueuses et/ou du cuir chevelu et/ou pour l'améliorer, en particulier pour améliorer la structure des capillaires de la peau et/ou des muqueuses et/ou du cuir chevelu notamment cutanés ; et/ou pour améliorer la morphogenèse de l'épithélium, de la peau et/ou des muqueuses et/ou du cuir chevelu préférentiel lement l'épiderme ; et/ou pour restaurer l'architecture épithéliale de la peau et/ou des muqueuses et/ou du cuir chevelu, préférentiellement épidermique, en particulier des peaux et/ou des muqueuses et/ou du cuir chevelu ayant subi un vieillissement notamment chronobiologique ; et/ou pour améliorer le teint de la peau et/ou des muqueuses, notamment l'homogénéiser ; et/ou pour améliorer la fermeté et/ou la densité de la peau et/ou des muqueuses et/ou du cuir chevelu ; et/ou pour lutter contre la diminution de l'épaisseur de l'épithélium de la peau et/ou des muqueuses et/ou du cuir chevelu, préférentiellement l'épiderme ; et/ou pour augmenter l'épaisseur de l'épithélium de la peau et/ou des muqueuses et/ou du cuir chevelu, préférentiellement l'épiderme ; et/ou dans le traitement et/ou la prévention des gerçures ; et/ou pour lutter contre et/ou traiter et/ou prévenir la rétention d'eau et/ou la cellulite et/ou les poches périorbitaires et/ou pour augmenter et/ou maintenir l'adhésion cellulaire. 1. Topical cosmetic use of an extract of Tapirira guyanensis, to stimulate the expression of perlecan and/or dystroglycan and/or VE-cadherin and/or claudin-5, in particular in the extracellular matrix and/or in the epithelial basement membrane, in particular the dermo-epidermal junction; and/or to prevent and/or fight against aging of the skin and/or mucous membranes and/or scalp, particularly chronobiological and/or photobiological; and/or to prevent and/or fight against the reduction in homeostasis of the skin and/or mucous membranes and/or scalp and/or to improve it, in particular in the epidermis; and/or to strengthen the epithelial basement membrane of the skin and/or mucous membranes and/or scalp, preferably the dermo-epidermal junction; and/or to improve the proliferation and/or differentiation of keratinocytes, particularly at the epidermal level, in particular linked to aging of the skin and/or mucous membranes and/or the scalp; and/or to prevent and/or combat a reduction in the vascularization of the skin and/or mucous membranes and/or the scalp and/or to improve it, in particular to improve the structure of the capillaries of the skin and/or or mucous membranes and/or scalp, particularly cutaneous; and/or to improve the morphogenesis of the epithelium, the skin and/or the mucous membranes and/or the scalp, preferably the epidermis; and/or to restore the epithelial architecture of the skin and/or mucous membranes and/or scalp, preferably epidermal, in particular of skin and/or mucous membranes and/or scalp having undergone particularly chronobiological aging; and/or to improve the complexion of the skin and/or mucous membranes, in particular to homogenize it; and/or to improve the firmness and/or density of the skin and/or mucous membranes and/or leather hairy; and/or to combat the reduction in the thickness of the epithelium of the skin and/or the mucous membranes and/or the scalp, preferably the epidermis; and/or to increase the thickness of the epithelium of the skin and/or mucous membranes and/or scalp, preferably the epidermis; and/or in the treatment and/or prevention of chapping; and/or to combat and/or treat and/or prevent water retention and/or cellulite and/or periorbital bags and/or to increase and/or maintain cellular adhesion.
2. Utilisation selon la revendication 1, caractérisée en ce que l'extrait de Tapirira guyanensis est obtenu par extraction aqueuse. 2. Use according to claim 1, characterized in that the extract of Tapirira guyanensis is obtained by aqueous extraction.
3. Utilisation selon l'une quelconque des revendications 1 ou 2, caractérisée en ce que l'extrait de Tapirira guyanensis est obtenu par extraction des parties aériennes de Tapirira guyanensis. 3. Use according to any one of claims 1 or 2, characterized in that the extract of Tapirira guyanensis is obtained by extraction of the aerial parts of Tapirira guyanensis.
4. Utilisation selon l'une quelconque des revendications 1 à 3, pour stimuler l'expression protéique du perlécane et/ou du dystroglycane et/ou de la VE-cadhérine et/ou de la claudine-5, en particulier dans la matrice extracellulaire et/ou dans la membrane basale épithéliale, notamment la jonction dermo-épidermique. 4. Use according to any one of claims 1 to 3, to stimulate the protein expression of perlecan and/or dystroglycan and/or VE-cadherin and/or claudin-5, in particular in the extracellular matrix and/or in the epithelial basement membrane, particularly the dermo-epidermal junction.
5. Utilisation selon l'une quelconque des revendications 1 à 4 pour améliorer le teint de la peau par élimination des rougeurs et/ou par homogénéisation du teint et/ou en lui donnant un aspect lumineux, éclatant, en bonne santé et/ou nourri, un effet bonne mine et/ou un éclat rosé. 5. Use according to any one of claims 1 to 4 for improving the complexion of the skin by eliminating redness and/or by homogenizing the complexion and/or by giving it a luminous, radiant, healthy and/or nourished appearance , a healthy glow effect and/or a rosy glow.
6. Utilisation selon l'une quelconque des revendications 1 à 4 pour prévenir et/ou lutter contre le vieillissement cutané notamment chronobiologique par diminution ou suppression des rides et/ou ridules, en particulier pour les peaux matures et/ou les peaux présentant les premiers signes de vieillissement. 6. Use according to any one of claims 1 to 4 to prevent and/or fight against skin aging, particularly chronobiological, by reducing or eliminating wrinkles and/or fine lines, in particular for mature skin and/or skin presenting the first signs of aging.
7. Utilisation selon l'une quelconque des revendications 1 à 4 pour prévenir et/ou lutter contre la diminution de l'homéostasie de la peau et/ou des muqueuses et/ou du cuir chevelu et/ou pour améliorer l'homéostasie de la peau et/ou des muqueuses et/ou du cuir chevelu, en particulier dans l'épiderme. 7. Use according to any one of claims 1 to 4 to prevent and/or combat the reduction in homeostasis of the skin and/or mucous membranes and/or scalp and/or to improve homeostasis of the skin and/or mucous membranes and/or scalp, particularly in the epidermis.
8. Utilisation selon l'une quelconque des revendications 1 à 4 pour augmenter et/ou maintenir l'adhésion cellulaire et pour lutter contre et/ou traiter et/ou prévenir la rétention d'eau et/ou la cellulite et/ou les poches périorbitaires. 8. Use according to any one of claims 1 to 4 to increase and/or maintain cell adhesion and to combat and/or treat and/or prevent water retention and/or cellulite and/or puffiness periorbital.
9. Utilisation selon l'une quelconque des revendications 1 à 8, caractérisée en ce que l'extrait de Tapirira guyanensis est appliqué par voie topique sur au moins une zone concernée de la peau saine et/ou d'une muqueuse saine et/ou du cuir chevelu sain, en particulier d'un être humain. 9. Use according to any one of claims 1 to 8, characterized in that the extract of Tapirira guyanensis is applied topically to at least one affected area of healthy skin and/or healthy mucous membrane and/or healthy scalp, especially of a human being.
10. Utilisation selon la revendication 9, caractérisée en ce que la zone concernée de la peau est choisie parmi le visage, le cou, le décolleté, le buste et /ou les mains, et tout particulièrement les sillons nasogéniens, et/ou la zone périorbitaire, et/ou le contour des lèvres, et/ou du front. 10. Use according to claim 9, characterized in that the affected area of the skin is chosen from the face, neck, neckline, bust and/or hands, and very particularly the nasolabial folds, and/or the area periorbital, and/or the contour of the lips, and/or the forehead.
11. Utilisation selon l'une quelconque des revendications 1 à 10, caractérisée en ce que l'extrait de Tapirira guyanensis est présent dans une composition cosmétique comprenant un excipient cosmétique topiquement acceptable, avantageusement l'extrait de Tapirira guyanensis étant présent en une teneur comprise entre 1.10"4 et 10 % en poids par rapport au poids total de la composition. 11. Use according to any one of claims 1 to 10, characterized in that the extract of Tapirira guyanensis is present in a cosmetic composition comprising a topically acceptable cosmetic excipient, advantageously the extract of Tapirira guyanensis being present in a content of between 1.10 "4 and 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
12. Utilisation selon l'une quelconque des revendications 1 à 11, caractérisée en ce que l'extrait de Tapirira guyanensis est solubilisé dans une solution aqueuse comprenant de l'hexylène glycol, du caprylyl glycol ou leur mélange. 12. Use according to any one of claims 1 to 11, characterized in that the extract of Tapirira guyanensis is solubilized in an aqueous solution comprising hexylene glycol, caprylyl glycol or their mixture.
13. Utilisation selon la revendication 12, caractérisée en ce que l'extrait de Tapirira guyanensis est solubilisé en une teneur comprise entre 0,1 et 10 % en poids par rapport au poids total de la solution aqueuse, en particulier comprise entre 0,5 et 5% en poids par rapport au poids total de la solution aqueuse. 13. Use according to claim 12, characterized in that the extract of Tapirira guyanensis is solubilized in a content of between 0.1 and 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the aqueous solution, in particular between 0.5 and 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the aqueous solution.
14. Utilisation selon l'une quelconque des revendications 1 à 13 pour stimuler l'expression du perlécane et/ou du dystroglycane dans les kératinocytes et/ou les cellules endothéliales de la peau et/ou des muqueuses et/ou du cuir chevelu, préférentiellement cutanées. 14. Use according to any one of claims 1 to 13 for stimulating the expression of perlecan and/or dystroglycan in keratinocytes and/or endothelial cells of the skin and/or mucous membranes and/or scalp, preferably skin.
15. Composition cosmétique, avantageusement destinée à une application par voie topique, caractérisée en ce qu'elle comprend un extrait de Tapirira guyanensis et un excipient cosmétique topiquement acceptable. 15. Cosmetic composition, advantageously intended for topical application, characterized in that it comprises an extract of Tapirira guyanensis and a topically acceptable cosmetic excipient.
16. Composition cosmétique selon la revendication 15 dans laquelle l'extrait est présent en une teneur comprise entre 1.10"4 et 10 % en poids par rapport au poids total de la composition. 16. Cosmetic composition according to claim 15 in which the extract is present in a content of between 1.10 "4 and 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
17. Composition cosmétique selon l'une des revendications 15 ou 16 dans laquelle l'extrait est tel que défini dans les revendications 2, 3, 12 et 13. 17. Cosmetic composition according to one of claims 15 or 16 in which the extract is as defined in claims 2, 3, 12 and 13.
18. Composition cosmétique selon l'une des revendications 15 à 17 caractérisée en ce qu'elle est choisie parmi une solution, aqueuse ou huileuse, une crème ou un gel aqueux ou un gel huileux, notamment un gel douche, un shampoing ; un lait ; une émulsion, une microémulsion ou une nanoémulsion, notamment huile-dans-eau ou eau-dans-huile ou multiple ou siliconée ; un masque ; un sérum ; une lotion ; un savon liquide ; un pain dermatologique ; une pommade ; une mousse ; un patch ; un produit anhydre, de préférence liquide, pâteux ou solide, par exemple sous forme de poudres de maquillage, de bâtonnet ou de stick, notamment sous forme de rouge à lèvre. 18. Cosmetic composition according to one of claims 15 to 17 characterized in that it is chosen from an aqueous or oily solution, an aqueous cream or gel or an oily gel, in particular a shower gel, a shampoo; a milk ; an emulsion, a microemulsion or a nanoemulsion, in particular oil-in-water or water-in-oil or multiple or siliconized; a mask; a serum; lotion; liquid soap; a dermatological bar; an ointment ; a foam; a patch; an anhydrous product, preferably liquid, pasty or solid, for example in the form of makeup powders, rods or sticks, in particular in the form of lipstick.
19. Procédé de soin cosmétique caractérisé en ce qu'il comprend l'application sur au moins une zone concernée de la peau saine et/ou muqueuse saine et/ou du cuir chevelu sain d'un extrait de Tapirira guyanensis ou d'une composition cosmétique comprenant un tel extrait, en particulier selon l'une quelconque des revendications 15 à 18, pour stimuler l'expression du perlécane, du dystroglycane et de la VE-cadhérine et de la claudine-5, en particulier dans la matrice extracellulaire et/ou dans la membrane basale épithéliale, notamment la jonction dermo- épidermique. 19. Cosmetic treatment process characterized in that it comprises the application to at least one area concerned of healthy skin and/or healthy mucous membrane and/or healthy scalp of an extract of Tapirira guyanensis or of a composition cosmetic comprising such an extract, in particular according to any one of claims 15 to 18, to stimulate the expression of perlecan, dystroglycan and VE-cadherin and claudin-5, in particular in the extracellular matrix and/or or in the epithelial basement membrane, particularly the dermo-epidermal junction.
20. Procédé selon la revendication 19 pour prévenir et/ou lutter contre le vieillissement de la peau et/ou des muqueuses et/ou du cuir chevelu notamment chronobiologique et/ou photobiologique, pour prévenir et/ou lutter contre la diminution de l'homéostasie de la peau et/ou des muqueuses et/ou du cuir chevelu et/ou pour l'améliorer, en particulier dans l'épiderme, pour renforcer la membrane basale épithéliale de la peau et/ou des muqueuses et/ou du cuir chevelu, préférentiel lement la jonction dermo-épidermique, pour améliorer la prolifération et/ou la différenciation des kératinocytes, notamment au niveau épidermique, en particulier lié au vieillissement de la peau et/ou des muqueuses et/ou du cuir chevelu, pour prévenir et/ou lutter contre une diminution de la vascularisation de la peau et/ou des muqueuses et/ou du cuir chevelu et/ou pour l'améliorer, en particulier pour améliorer la structure des capillaires de la peau et/ou des muqueuses et/ou du cuir chevelu notamment cutanés, pour améliorer la morphogenèse de l'épithélium, de la peau et/ou des muqueuses et/ou du cuir chevelu préférentiellement l'épiderme, pour restaurer l'architecture épithéliale de la peau et/ou des muqueuses et/ou du cuir chevelu, préférentiellement épidermique, en particulier des peaux et/ou des muqueuses et/ou du cuir chevelu ayant subi un vieillissement notamment chronobiologique, pour améliorer le teint de la peau et/ou des muqueuses, notamment l'homogénéiser, pour améliorer la fermeté et/ou la densité de la peau et/ou des muqueuses et/ou du cuir chevelu, et/ou pour lutter contre la diminution de l'épaisseur de l'épithélium de la peau et/ou des muqueuses et/ou du cuir chevelu, préférentiellement l'épiderme, et/ou pour augmenter l'épaisseur de l'épithélium de la peau et/ou des muqueuses et/ou du cuir chevelu, préférentiellement l'épiderme dans le traitement et/ou la prévention des gerçures, et/ou pour lutter contre et/ou traiter et/ou prévenir la rétention d'eau et/ou la cellulite et/ou les poches périorbitaires et/ou pour augmenter et/ou maintenir l'adhésion cellulaire. 20. Method according to claim 19 for preventing and/or combating aging of the skin and/or mucous membranes and/or the scalp, in particular chronobiological and/or photobiological, for preventing and/or combating the reduction in homeostasis of the skin and/or mucous membranes and/or scalp and/or to improve it, in particular in the epidermis, to strengthen the epithelial basement membrane of the skin and/or mucous membranes and/or scalp, preferably the dermo-epidermal junction, to improve the proliferation and/or differentiation of keratinocytes, particularly at the epidermal level , in particular linked to the aging of the skin and/or mucous membranes and/or the scalp, to prevent and/or combat a reduction in the vascularization of the skin and/or mucous membranes and/or the scalp and/or to improve it, in particular to improve the structure of the capillaries of the skin and/or the mucous membranes and/or the scalp, particularly cutaneous, to improve the morphogenesis of the epithelium, the skin and/or the mucous membranes and/or of the scalp, preferably the epidermis, to restore the epithelial architecture of the skin and/or mucous membranes and/or scalp, preferably epidermal, in particular of skin and/or mucous membranes and/or scalp having undergone a particularly chronobiological aging, to improve the complexion of the skin and/or mucous membranes, in particular to homogenize it, to improve the firmness and/or density of the skin and/or mucous membranes and/or the scalp, and/or to fight against the reduction in the thickness of the epithelium of the skin and/or mucous membranes and/or the scalp, preferably the epidermis, and/or to increase the thickness of the epithelium of the skin and/or mucous membranes and/or the scalp, preferably the epidermis in the treatment and/or prevention of chapped skin, and/or to combat and/or treat and/or prevent water retention and/or cellulite and/or or periorbital pockets and/or to increase and/or maintain cellular adhesion.
21. Extrait de Tapirira guyanensis ou composition dermatologique contenant un extrait de Tapirira guyanensis et un excipient dermatologiquement acceptable pour utilisation par voie topique dans le traitement et/ou la prévention de la couperose, des télangiectasies et/ou des pathologies des muqueuses buccales et/ou oculaires. 21. Tapirira guyanensis extract or dermatological composition containing a Tapirira guyanensis extract and a dermatologically acceptable excipient for topical use in the treatment and/or prevention of rosacea, telangiectasias and/or pathologies of the oral and/or ocular mucous membranes.
22. Extrait selon la revendication 21 caractérisé en ce qu'il est tel que défini dans les revendications 2, 3, 12 et 13. 22. Extract according to claim 21 characterized in that it is as defined in claims 2, 3, 12 and 13.
23. Milieu de culture de cellules caractérisé en ce qu'il comprend un extrait de Tapirira guyanensis, avantageusement tel que défini dans les revendications 2 à 3, et avantageusement un composé choisi parmi le sérum de veau fœtal, l'extrait pituitaire, ou une hormone, un acide aminé, un sucre, un facteur de croissance, une protéine recombinante et leurs mélanges. 23. Cell culture medium characterized in that it comprises an extract of Tapirira guyanensis, advantageously as defined in claims 2 to 3, and advantageously a compound chosen from fetal calf serum, pituitary extract, or a hormone, an amino acid, a sugar, a growth factor, a recombinant protein and mixtures thereof.
24 Milieu de culture selon la revendication 23 caractérisé en ce que l'extrait est présent à une concentration comprise entre 1.10"4 et 10% en poids par rapport au poids total du milieu de culture, préférentiellement entre 0,001 et 0,1%. 24 Culture medium according to claim 23 characterized in that the extract is present at a concentration of between 1.10 "4 and 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the culture medium, preferably between 0.001 and 0.1%.
25. Utilisation du milieu de culture selon l'une des revendications 23 ou 24 pour stimuler l'expression du perlécane et/ou du dystroglycane et/ou de la VE-cadhérine et/ou de la claudine-5, en particulier dans la matrice extracellulaire et/ou dans la membrane basale épithéliale, notamment la jonction dermo-épidermique, de cellules en culture choisie parmi les cellules endothéliales et/ou les kératinocytes. 25. Use of the culture medium according to one of claims 23 or 24 to stimulate the expression of perlecan and/or dystroglycan and/or VE-cadherin and/or claudin-5, in particular in the matrix extracellular and/or in the epithelial basement membrane, in particular the dermo-epidermal junction, of cells in culture chosen from endothelial cells and/or keratinocytes.
EP14777731.2A 2013-09-12 2014-09-11 Cosmetic or dermatological use of an extract of tapirira guianensis Withdrawn EP3043873A1 (en)

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PCT/FR2014/052254 WO2015036704A1 (en) 2013-09-12 2014-09-11 Cosmetic or dermatological use of an extract of tapirira guianensis

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