FR3062302A1 - NOVEL COSMETIC COMPOSITION COMPRISING NACRE OR A NACRE EXTRACT - Google Patents

Abstract

The subject of the present invention is a novel cosmetic composition comprising mother-of-pearl or mother-of-pearl extract and its use for various cosmetic applications, in particular for its anti-aging effect or for the cosmetic lightening or unification treatment of the complexion.

Description

Holder (s): simplified.

COSMOLUXURY Business corporation

O Extension request (s):

® Agent (s): CABINET GERMAIN & MAUREAU.

(54) NOVEL COSMETIC COMPOSITION COMPRISING NACRE OR A NACRE EXTRACT.

(57) The subject of the present invention is a new cosmetic composition comprising mother-of-pearl or a mother-of-pearl extract and its use for various cosmetic applications, in particular for its anti-aging effect or for the cosmetic treatment for lightening or unifying the complexion.

FR 3 062 302 - A1

The subject of the present invention is a new cosmetic composition comprising mother-of-pearl or a mother-of-pearl extract and its use for various cosmetic applications, in particular as “anti-aging”.

The skin

The skin is a complex organ, the largest of all, which envelops, covers and protects the individual. It allows survival. Located between the interior environment and the cosmic world, thanks to a remarkable sheet structure, it provides various qualities and functions: flexibility and solidity, impermeability and capacity to evacuate heat (thermoregulation), or defense.

The skin is made up of three layers: the epidermis, the dermis and the hypodermis.

The epidermis

The epidermis is essentially composed of cells called keratinocytes. It has no blood vessels. The keratinocytes are arranged in five layers and have a particular structure and function depending on their position. They are very active in the layer which separates the dermis from the epidermis, it is called the germinative layer. In this layer, they divide and are gradually expelled to the upper layer. When a cell goes up a notch, it must be replaced by another. Thus gradually, the cells go up towards the surface while being modified. The cells lose their nucleus, they “keratinize” and form the stratum corneum containing substances allowing hydration called “nmf” (natural moisturing factors).

The structure of the stratum corneum can be compared to that of a brick wall sealed with mortar. When the surface cells lose their adhesion to each other, they separate, it is scaling. The regulation of epidermal stratification and the maintenance of the thickness of the epidermis are essential for the radiance and skin health and witness to its youth.

Keratinocytes are associated with melanocytes (pigment cells) and defense cells, danger cells, which have the ability to pick up a foreign substance that has penetrated.

The dermis, the dermo-epidermal junction and the hypodermis

The dermis is placed under the epidermis to which it is firmly anchored. This anchoring zone appears as a wavy surface, the dermis penetrates into the epidermis by protruding there by papillae, it is the dermo-epidermal junction (or "JDE").

These two tissues, dermis and epidermis, are connected by an adhesion zone centered around a basal lamina called the epidermal basement membrane.

This “specific anchoring” delimits a privileged region of the sub-epidermal dermis (the papillary dermis) where most of the exchanges take place which maintain the dialogue between the epidermis and the dermis, source of skin vitality.

The main dermal cells are fibroblasts which make an extracellular matrix in which they bathe. The dermal extracellular matrix is essentially composed of collagen fibers (mainly collagen 1 and collagen 3 in young skin) and elastin which provide elasticity, solidity and flexibility. These fibers are associated with different types of molecules, in particular with “proteoglycans” which retain water.

The dermis is well irrigated by numerous vessels which are in contact with the epidermis at the level of the papillae of the dermo-epidermal junction in the papillary dermis, but also with the vascular axes of the hypodermis.

Nerves are divided in the dermis into sensory nets at the origin of the sensations and into nets of the sympathetic nervous system which play a vaso-motor role. The sweat glands and hair follicles of epidermal origin have extensions embedded in the dermis.

Aging

There are two major factors of skin aging (or skin aging):

• intrinsic aging linked to the influence of years and lifestyle; and • extrinsic or actinic aging created by solar irradiation and other aggravating factors such as pollution and smoking.

Thus, in the epidermis, the stratum corneum is thick, the cells flaking with difficulty. In addition, the number of active melanocytes decreases from 30 years and the activity of defense cells weakens. Finally, the dermo-epidermal junction flattens which narrows the mooring surface resulting in loss of tone and the formation of surface wrinkles / fine lines. The epidermal stratification loses its coherence and therefore its regulatory capacities.

In the dermis, the less active fibroblasts become sparse and the matrix surrounding them becomes poorer. Collagen and elastin change and fragment. In addition, type 3 collagen (from youth) disappears. Finally, molecules that retain water, glycosaminoglycans or GAG are becoming scarce. This results in less hydration of the dermis. Blood circulation is limited, elasticity reduced. All of these factors lead to the formation of deep wrinkles.

More generally, the epidermis and dermis lose their ability to communicate, their language by molecular signals becomes poorer.

Thus, in the context of an “anti-aging” cosmetic treatment, it is useful to identify compounds making it possible to restore the cellular language of young skin.

Skin color

The color of human skin is a function of various factors, in particular ethnicity and gender, but also environmental factors (season, sun exposure, etc.); it is mainly dependent on the nature and concentration of melanin produced by the melanocytes.

The mechanism for the formation of skin pigmentation is complex and schematically involves the following main stages: Tyrosine -> Dopa -> Dopaquinone -> Dopachrome -> Melanin. Melanin is stored within the melanocytes, then transferred to neighboring keratinocytes.

Pigmentation results from the synthesis and distribution of melanin in the skin. Melanocytes and keratinocytes are involved in this process. It takes place in 3 stages: the melanocytes are the site of the synthesis of melanin. It will accumulate there, then will be transferred via the melanosomes to the keratinocytes. The melanosomes are degraded and then destroyed during scaling on the surface of the epidermis.

Each of these steps is essential for pigmentation.

Thus, in the context of a cosmetic treatment for lightening or unifying the complexion, it is therefore useful to identify compounds promoting a good distribution of melanin in keratinocytes.

Mother-of-pearl or mother-of-pearl extract

The mother-of-pearl or mother-of-pearl is part of the shell structure of certain mother-of-pearl molluscs, notably the Pinctada oyster. It is an organomineral material of natural origin which does not contain cells and which is composed of calcium carbonate in the form of aragonite and closely related organic matter.

Mother-of-pearl, like the skin, plays an extreme protective role in the oyster Pinctada. Like the skin, it has the power to self-repair and has many analogies with the latter, such as a brick and mortar structure comparable to the arrangement of epidermal cells. In particular, the mother-of-pearl that lines the shell of Pinctada maxima is very thick and particularly rich in active substances.

Various processes for the preparation of mother-of-pearl extracts have been described. By way of example, mention may be made of the process described in application FR 2743075 for the preparation of an aqueous fraction comprising a step of grinding the mother-of-pearl into a powder with a particle size of less than about 200 tram, placing it in intimate contact with an aqueous solvent then the separation of the insoluble fraction so as to recover the aqueous fraction and finally the concentration of the solvent of the aqueous fraction in order to recover the soluble fraction of mother-of-pearl which is made up of biologically active substances, essentially devoid of mineral constituents.

Mother-of-pearl and mother-of-pearl extracts are an integral part of ancient pharmacopoeias in many civilizations, especially in traditional Chinese medicine. Many therapeutic or cosmetic uses of mother-of-pearl have thus been described or mentioned in the literature. Thus, patent application FR 2742661 describes the use of mother-of-pearl powder in cosmetic compositions to activate the synthesis of new cytokeratins in order to improve the resistance of the skin to the sun and to aggressions, such as prolonged exposure to the water or cold.

One of the main difficulties associated with the use of this active ingredient in cosmetics lies in its instability. Indeed, the presence of ionic charges in the mother-of-pearl powder are the cause of significant viscosity decreases. In addition, mother-of-pearl induces large variations in pH. This high instability significantly limits the use of mother-of-pearl and its extracts as cosmetic active ingredients.

Thus, at the date of the present invention, it remains necessary to develop a formulation making it possible to stabilize the nacre or its extracts over time while maintaining or even improving their cosmetic efficacy.

Now, a cosmetic composition has now been found containing mother-of-pearl or a mother-of-pearl extract stable over time and allowing the use of this active ingredient for various cosmetic applications, in particular as “anti-aging”.

The present invention therefore relates to a cosmetic composition comprising:

- mother-of-pearl or a mother-of-pearl extract;

at least one gelling agent chosen from the following agents: polyacrylate crosspolymer-6, copolymer of acrylate and of Ci ₀ -C ₃₀ -alkyl acrylate, copolymer of hydroxyethyl acrylate and of acryloyldimethyl sodium taurate, copolymer of acrylates, lecithin, xanthan gum, cellulose gum, disteardimonium hectorite, Chondrus cripus (carrageenan) algae extract and hydroxypropyl guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride; and

- a buffer solution.

The cosmetic composition according to the present invention has excellent stability over time and which allows the use of mother-of-pearl or mother-of-pearl extract for various cosmetic applications, in particular as “anti-aging”.

In the context of the present invention:

- “anti-aging” is understood to mean any cosmetic treatment of skin aging, that is to say any cosmetic treatment comprising the topical application of a composition with a view to preventing and / or making less visible and / or reduce the external signs of skin aging such as loss of tone, loss of elasticity and wrinkles;

- The term “cosmetic treatment for lightening the complexion” means any cosmetic treatment comprising the topical application of a composition with a view to obtaining a better distribution of melanin in the keratinocytes, in particular the cosmetic treatment of ephelides (freckles ), chloasma (brown spots on the face), and pigmentation due to external aggressions and senescence;

- “Cosmetic treatment to unify the complexion” is understood to mean any cosmetic treatment comprising the topical application of a composition with a view to standardizing / homogenizing the complexion, in particular by reducing redness, the appearance of dark areas, and the marks of stress, pollution and fatigue, thus making it brighter / thus restoring its radiance;

- “C _x -C _y -alkyl” is understood to mean a saturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon chain, comprising from x to y carbon atoms;

- “copolymer of acrylate and of Ci ₀ -C ₃₀ -alkyl acrylate” designates in particular the compound registered under the number CAS 9007-20-9 and marketed by the company Lubrizol under the name Carbopol® Ultrez 21 Polymer;

- “polyacrylate crosspolymer-6” designates the compound registered under the CAS number 1190091-71-4 and marketed by the company Seppic under the name SepiMAX® Zen;

- “copolymer of hydroxyethyl acrylate and of sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate” designates in particular the compound registered under the number CAS 9007-20-9 and marketed by the company Seppic under the name Sepinov® EMT 10;

- "xanthan gum" means the compound registered under CAS number 11138-662;

- "cellulose gum" means the compound registered under CAS number 9004-324;

- "disteardimonium hectorite" means the compound registered under CAS number 94891-31-3;

- “Chondrus cripus algae extract” (carrageenan) designates the compound registered under CAS number 9000-07-1;

- "hydroxypropyl guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride" means the compound registered under CAS number 71329-50-5;

- "disodium hydrogen phosphate" means the compound registered under CAS number 10028-24-7;

- "potassium dihydrogen phosphate" means the compound registered under CAS number 7778-77-0;

- "acetic acid" means the compound registered under CAS number 64-19-7;

- "sodium acetate" means the compound registered under CAS number 127-09-3;

- "hydrochloric acid" means the compound registered under CAS number 7647-010;

- "potassium acid phatalate" means the compound registered under CAS number 877-24-7;

- "citric acid" means the compound registered under CAS number 77-92-9;

- "sodium citrate" means the compound registered under CAS number 6804-2;

- "succinic acid" means the compound registered under CAS number 110-15-6;

- "sodium hydroxide" means the compound registered under CAS number 131073-2;

- "cetyl alcohol" means the compound registered under CAS number 36653-82-4;

- “cetearyl alcohol” designates the compound registered under CAS number 67762-270;

- "cetearyl glucoside" means the compound registered under CAS number 8005-44-5;

- "PEG-75 stearate" means the compound registered under CAS number 9004-99-3;

- "PEG-100 stearate" means the compound registered under CAS number 9004-99-3;

- "glyceryl stearate" means the compound registered under CAS number 31566-31-1;

- “Ceteth-20” designates the compound registered under the CAS number 9004-95-9;

- "Steareth-20" means the compound registered under CAS number 9005-00-9;

- "glyceryl stearate" means the compound registered under CAS number 3156631-1;

- "glyceryl stearate citrate" means the compound registered under CAS number 91744-39-7;

- "3-polyglyceryl dicitrate / stearate" means the compound registered under CAS number 1208985-39-0;

- "polyglyceryl-6 distearate" means the compound registered under CAS number 34424-97-0; and

- “Caprylic acid ester of polyglycerin-3” designates in particular the compound registered under the CAS number 136097-93-3.

In addition, in the context of the present invention, the proportions expressed in% correspond to mass percentages relative to the total weight of the entity considered.

In the context of the present invention, “Dv ₅₀ ” designates the median diameter by volume of a powder, that is to say the diameter below which 50% of the volume of the particles is found, the diameter of the particles possibly be determined by any method known to a person skilled in the art, in particular using a laser granulometer (eg Beckman Coulters LS 230 laser with SVM module - measurement made in liquid mode in ethanol). Thus, in the context of the present invention, the expression "powder whose particle size between 'x' pm and 'y'pm" designates any product in the form of powder having a Dv ₅₀ of between 'x' pm and 'y 'pm.

The composition according to the present invention therefore contains, as an active ingredient, nacre or an extract of nacre. Preferably, the subject of the present invention is a composition as described above comprising mother-of-pearl or a mother-of-pearl extract having the following characteristics, taken alone or in combination:

the mother-of-pearl or the mother-of-pearl extract is obtained from a mother-of-pearl mollusc, preferably from an oyster, more preferably from a Pinctada type oyster, very preferably from Pinctada maxima;

- the mother-of-pearl or the mother-of-pearl extract is in the form of a powder whose particle size is between 1 to 200 μm, preferably between 10 and 150 μm, more preferably between 30 and 100 μm; and or

The mother-of-pearl extract used as active ingredient in the composition according to the present invention can be obtained by any method known to a person skilled in the art, in particular the method comprising the following steps:

- a crushing stage,

- followed by a grinding step.

Preferably, the subject of the present invention is a composition as described above having the following characteristics, taken alone or in combination:

the composition contains from 0.01 to 10% of mother-of-pearl or mother-of-pearl extract as described above, preferably from 0.05 to 5% of mother-of-pearl or mother-of-pearl extract as described above, more preferably from 0.1% to 2% of mother-of-pearl or mother-of-pearl extract as described above;

- The composition contains an extract of mother-of-pearl as defined above;

the gelling agent is chosen as being polyacrylate crosspolymer-6, a copolymer of acrylate and of Ci ₀ -C ₃₀ -alkyl acrylate, a copolymer of hydroxyethyl acrylate and of acryloyldimethylated sodium taurate, a copolymer association of acrylates / lecithin (such as Lecigel® sold by the company LucasMeyer Cosmetics) and xanthan gum (such as Keltrol® CG-BT sold by the company CPKelco);

the composition contains from 0.01% to 5% of gelling agent as described above, preferably from 0.02% to 2% of gelling agent as described above, more preferably from 0.05% to 1 % of gelling agent as described above;

the buffer solution makes it possible to maintain the pH of the cosmetic composition between 4.5 and 7 for a period of at least one month, preferably at least three months, preferably at least six months;

- the buffer solution is formed by the citric acid / sodium citrate, disodium hydrogen phosphate / potassium dihydrogen phosphate or potassium dihydrogen phosphate / sodium hydroxide couple; acetic acid / sodium acetate; hydrochloric acid / potassium acid phthalate; citric acid / sodium citrate; or succinic acid / sodium hydroxide. Preferably, the buffer solution is formed by the potassium dihydrogen phosphate / sodium hydroxide pair; and or

the composition contains from 0.1% to 5% of buffer solution as described above, preferably from 0.2% to 2% of buffer solution as described above, more preferably from 0.5% to 1% of buffer solution as described above.

The compositions according to the present invention can also contain an emulsifying agent. Thus, the subject of the present invention is also a composition as described above, further containing at least one emulsifying agent chosen from the following agents: cetyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, cetearyl glucoside, PEG-75 stearate, PEG-100 stearate, glyceryl stearate , Ceteth-20, Steareth-20, glyceryl stearate, glyceryl citrate stearate, polyglyceryl-3 dicitrate / stearate, or a combination of polyglyceryl-6 distearate / ester of caprylic acid and polyglycerin-3. Preferably, the emulsifying agent is chosen as being a cetyl alcohol / glyceryl stearate / PEG-75 stearate / Ceteth-20 / Steareth-20 association (such as Emulium® delta sold by the company Gattefossé), a cetearyl alcohol association / cetaryl glucoside (such as Montanov® 68 sold by the company Seppic) or a PEG-100 stearate / glyceryl stearate combination (such as Simulsol® 165 sold by the company Seppic).

Preferably, the composition contains from 1% to 20% of emulsifying agent as described above, preferably from 2% to 15% of emulsifying agent as described above, more preferably from 3% to 10% of agent emulsifier as described above.

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The compositions according to the present invention can be in the form of a cream, gel, lotion, milk, oil-in-water or water-in-oil emulsion, solution, ointment, sprayer, sunscreen, body oil, hair lotion, shampoo, after-shave lotions. , soap, lip protector stick, makeup stick and pencil.

The compositions according to the present invention can also comprise other complementary active principles chosen for their action, for example hyaluronic acid, spirulina, aloe vera, pineapple, papaya, turmeric, ayapana (Ayapana triplinervis), the yellow flower (Hypericum lanceolatum) and / or the pretty heartwood (Pittosporum Senacia).

When the compositions according to the present invention contain complementary active principles, these are generally present in the composition at a concentration high enough for them to be able to exercise their activity.

The compositions according to the present invention are preferably used daily by applying them one or more times a day.

The compositions according to the present invention are very well tolerated, they have no toxicity and their application to the skin, for prolonged periods of time, does not imply any systematic effect.

The compositions according to the present invention can be used for numerous cosmetic applications. By way of example, mention may be made of the use of a composition according to the present invention for its anti-aging effect, for the cosmetic treatment for lightening the complexion or the cosmetic treatment for unifying the complexion.

The present invention is illustrated in a nonlimiting manner by the following examples.

Example 1 - Mother-of-pearl extract

To prepare the cosmetic compositions according to the invention, use is made of the nacre extract produced from the shell of the Pinctada maxima oyster by the company Stansea under the reference "PAE100" (Proteo Aragonite Extract 100).

The extract is in the form of a powder comprising:

- 95% calcium carbonate in the form of pure aragonite free of traces of calcite, metallic particles, chemical contaminants and heavy metals,

- and 5% of organic substances (fibrous proteins associated with small molecules, peptides and trace elements).

The granulometry of the powder is determined using a BECKMAN COULTERS LS 230 laser granulometer with SVM module. The analysis was carried out in liquid mode in ethanol. The measured D _v50 is 64.53 pm.

The powder is free from nanoparticles.

Example 2 Cosmetic Compositions According to the Invention

2.1 - Compositions

The following compositions 1 to 4 were prepared (Tables 1 to 5).

Composition 1 - Eye contour

INGREDIENT INCI NAME FUNCTION % PAE 100 - Active 0.5 PRIMALHYAL 50 HYDROLYZED HYALURONIC ACID Active 0.1 CARBOPOL ULTREZ 30 POLYMER CARBOMER Gelling agent 0.4 SEPIMAXZEN POLYACRYLATE CROSSPOLYMER-6 t-BUTYL ALCOHOL Gelling agent 0.4 POTASSIUM DIHYDROGENOPHOSPHATE Ref 1.04871 POTASSIUM PHOSPHATE Buffer 0.7 10% NAOH AQUEOUS SOLUTION (MERCK CHEMISTRY) AQUA (WATER) SODIUM HYDROXIDE Buffer 0.2 EMULIUM DELTA CETYL ALCOHOL GLYCERYL STEARATE PEG-75 STEARATE CETETH-20 STEARETH-20 Emulsifying agent 6.0 OSMOTIC WATER - - 91.7

Table 1

Composition 2 - Serum

INGREDIENT INCI NAME FUNCTION % PAE 100 - Active 0.5 PRIMALHYAL 50 HYDROLYZED HYALURONIC ACID Active 0.1 CARBOPOL ULTREZ 30 POLYMER CARBOMER Gelling agent 0.3 SEPINOV EMT 10 HYDROXYETHYL ACRYLATE / SODIUM ACRYLOYLDIMETHYLTAURATE COPOLYMER Gelling agent 1.7 LECIGEL SODIUM ACRYLATES COPOLYMER LECITHIN Gelling agent 0.5 POTASSIUM DIHYDROGENOPHOSPHATE Ref 1.04871 POTASSIUM PHOSPHATE Buffer 0.7 10% NAOH AQUEOUS SOLUTION (MERCK CHEMISTRY) AQUA (WATER) SODIUM HYDROXIDE Buffer 0.2 OSMOTIC WATER - - 96.0

Table 2

Composition 3 - Rich cream

INGREDIENT INCI NAME FUNCTION % PAE 100 - Active 0.5 PRIMALHYAL 50 HYDROLYZED HYALURONIC ACID Active 0.1 CARBOPOL ULTREZ 30 POLYMER CARBOMER Gelling agent 0.6 KELTROL CG-BT ΧΑΝΤΗΑΝ GUM Gelling agent 0.1 ARISTOFLEX AVC AMMONIUM ACRYLOYLDIMETHYLTAURATE / VP COPOLYMER AQUA (WATER) Gelling agent 0.2 POTASSIUM DIHYDROGENOPHOSPHATE Ref 1.04871 POTASSIUM PHOSPHATE Buffer 0.7 10% NAOH AQUEOUS SOLUTION (MERCK CHEMISTRY) AQUA (WATER) SODIUM HYDROXIDE Buffer 0.2 EMULIUM DELTA CETYL ALCOHOL GLYCERYL STEARATE PEG-75 STEARATE CETETH-20 STEARETH-20 Emulsifying agent 5.0 OSMOTIC WATER - - 92.6

Table 3

Composition 4 - SSC Cream

INGREDIENT INCI NAME FUNCTION % PAE 100 - Active 0.5 PRIMALHYAL 50 HYDROLYZED HYALURONIC ACID Active 0.1 CARBOPOL ULTREZ 30 POLYMER CARBOMER Gelling agent 0.6 KELTROL CG-BT XANTHAN GUM Gelling agent 0.1 ARISTOFLEX AVC AMMONIUM ACRYLOYLDIMETHYLTAURATE / VP COPOLYMER AQUA (WATER) Gelling agent 0.8 POTASSIUM DIHYDROGENOPHOSPHATE Ref 1.04871 POTASSIUM PHOSPHATE Buffer 0.7 10% NAOH AQUEOUS SOLUTION (MERCK CHEMISTRY) AQUA (WATER) SODIUM HYDROXIDE Buffer 0.2 MONTANOV 68 CETEARYL ALCOHOL CETEARYLGLUCOSIDE GLUCOSE AQUA (WATER) Emulsifying agent 5.0 OSMOTIC WATER - - 92.0

Table 4

2.2 - Stability

The stability of each of the previous compositions 1 to 4 was followed for a period of 3 to 6 months, with regular reading deadlines.

To do this, each composition is placed in a pill box, which is stored under the following conditions:

4 ° C (reference);

- 42 ° C;

- 50 ° C;

Ambient temperature / natural light;

- 20 ° C.

At the time of the readings, each pill box is brought to room temperature and the composition is compared with the composition contained in the pill box stored at 4 ° C. from a color and odor point of view. In addition, pH and viscosity are also measured at 20 ° C.

The results of this study show that all of the compositions are stable over time, whatever the storage conditions.

Example 3 Anti-Aging Effect

Compositions 1 to 4 were tested by a panel of 30 people for 28 days. During this period, each member of the panel applied the composition tested twice a day.

Each member of the panel answered a questionnaire relating to the effectiveness of the composition after the first application, after 7 days of use and after 28 days of use.

The synthesis of the responses obtained for each of the compositions is presented in Tables 5 to 8 below. Results greater than 67.4% of volunteers are considered significant according to the calculation of the bilateral confidence interval of a proportion.

Composition 1 (eye contour)

Question % of volunteers agree / somewhat agree EFFICIENCY AFTER FIRST APPLICATION The eye contour is instantly smoothed 66% The eye area is instantly hydrated 93% The eye area is soothed 88% Eye makeup is made easier 90% The eye area is toned 88% The eye area is smoothed and rested 85% The skin around the eyes is more comfortable 97% The skin around the eyes is protected and strengthened 97%

EFFICIENCY AFTER 7 DAYS OF USE NOT The eye area is deeply hydrated 82% The eye contour is uniform 91% The look is brighter / more radiant 78% Pockets are decongested 69% Dark circles are blurred 72% Wrinkles and fine lines fade 82% EFFICIENCY AFTER 28 DAYS OF USE The skin around the eyes regains its elasticity 97% The eye area is plumped up 91% The appearance of the pockets is significantly reduced 69% The appearance of dark circles is significantly reduced 75% The eye area is smoothed / lifted 84% Wrinkles and fine lines are significantly reduced 88% The eye contour is much firmer 90% Signs of fatigue are visibly reduced 84% The eye area is repaired 78% The gaze is more open 78% The signs of age are corrected in depth 66% The eye area is regenerated 84% The look looks younger 69%

Table 5

Composition 2 (serum)

Question % of volunteers agree / somewhat agree EFFICIENCY AFTER FIRST APPLICATION Skin is instantly hydrated 96% The skin is soothed 83% The skin is protected 87% The skin is toned 90% The skin is more beautiful 78% The complexion is uniform 84% The skin is brighter 90% Skin is instantly smoothed 81%

EFFICIENCY AFTER 7 DAYS OF USE NOT The complexion is more radiant 93% The skin texture is refined 93% The skin is firmer 93% The skin is hydrated 94% The skin is more supple 94% Wrinkles and fine lines fade 77% The skin is softer 97% The skin is regenerated 97% EFFICIENCY AFTER 28 DAYS OF USE The skin is firmer 94% The skin is smoother 97% The skin gains in elasticity 91% Skin is deeply hydrated 93% The contours of the face are redrawn 75% Tasks are fading 81% The skin is plumped up 83% Wrinkles and fine lines are significantly reduced 77% Skin is revitalized 93% The skin is lifted 74% The skin is deeply regenerated 77% Skin looks younger 91%

Table 6

Composition 3 (rich cream)

Question % of volunteers agree / somewhat agree EFFICIENCY AFTER FIRST APPLICATION Skin is instantly hydrated 93% The skin is soothed 97% The cream provides a feeling of intense softness and comfort to the skin 94% The skin is velvety 94% The skin is protected 93% The skin is more beautiful 90% The complexion is uniform 87% The skin is brighter 91% The skin is firmer 87% Skin is instantly smoothed 81%

EFFICIENCY AFTER 7 DAYS OF USE NOT The complexion is more radiant 87% The skin texture is refined 97% The pores are tightened 88% The skin is hydrated 94% The skin is more supple 97% Wrinkles and fine lines fade 88% EFFICIENCY AFTER 28 DAYS OF USE The skin is firmer 97% The skin is smoother 94% The skin gains in elasticity 97% Skin is deeply hydrated 90% The contours of the face are redrawn 84% Tasks are fading 84% The skin is plumped up 88% Wrinkles and fine lines are significantly reduced 84% Skin is revitalized 97% The skin is deeply regenerated 91% Skin looks younger 97%

Table 7

Composition 4 (SSC cream)

Question % of volunteers agree / somewhat agree EFFICIENCY AFTER FIRST APPLICATION Skin is instantly hydrated 81% The skin is soothed 91% The cream provides a feeling of intense softness and comfort to the skin 90% The skin is velvety 82% The skin is protected 91% The skin is more beautiful 63% The complexion is uniform 84% The skin is brighter 72% The skin is firmer 72% Skin is instantly smoothed 72% EFFICIENCY AFTER 7 DAYS OF USE NOT The complexion is more radiant 90% The skin texture is refined 82% The pores are tightened 85% The skin is hydrated 84% The skin is more supple 84% Wrinkles and fine lines fade 78%

EFFICIENCY AFTER 28 DAYS OF USE The skin is firmer 97% The skin is smoother 97% The skin gains in elasticity 94% Skin is deeply hydrated 88% The contours of the face are redrawn 72% Tasks are fading 76% The skin is plumped up 85% Wrinkles and fine lines are significantly reduced 79% Skin is revitalized 87% The skin is deeply regenerated 72% Skin looks younger 81%

Table 8

Claims (11)

1. Cosmetic composition comprising: - mother-of-pearl or a mother-of-pearl extract; at least one gelling agent chosen from the following agents: polyacrylate crosspolymer-6, copolymer of acrylate and of Ci ₀ -C ₃₀ -alkyl acrylate, copolymer of hydroxyethyl acrylate and of acryloyldimethyl sodium taurate, copolymer of acrylates, lecithin, xanthan gum, cellulose gum, disteardimonium hectorite, algae extract Chondrus cripus and hydroxypropyl guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride; and - a buffer solution. 2. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the nacre or the nacre extract is obtained from an oyster. 3. Composition according to claim 2, characterized in that the nacre or the nacre extract is obtained from Pinctada maxima. 4. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the nacre or the nacre extract is in the form of a powder whose particle size is between 1 to 200 μm. 5. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that the gelling agent is chosen as being polyacrylate crosspolymer-6, a copolymer of acrylate and of Ci ₀ -C ₃₀ -alkyl acrylate, a copolymer d 'hydroxyethyl acrylate and sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate, a copolymer association of acrylates / lecithin and xanthan gum. 6. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that the buffer solution is formed by the couple citric acid / sodium citrate, disodium hydrogen phosphate / potassium dihydrogen phosphate or potassium dihydrogen phosphate / sodium hydroxide; acetic acid / sodium acetate; hydrochloric acid / potassium acid phthalate; citric acid / sodium citrate; or succinic acid / sodium hydroxide. 7. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that it also comprises at least one emulsifying agent chosen from the following agents: cetyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, cetaryl glucoside, PEG-75 stearate, PEG- 100 stearate, glyceryl stearate, Ceteth-20, Steareth-20, glyceryl stearate, glyceryl citrate stearate, polyglyceryl-3 dicitrate / stearate, or a combination of polyglyceryl-6 distearate / ester of caprylic acid and polyglycerin-3. 8. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that it comprises another active principle chosen from hyaluronic acid, spirulina, aloe vera, pineapple, papaya, turmeric, l ayapana, the yellow flower and / or the Joli coeur wood. 9. Cosmetic use of a composition according to one of claims 1 to 8 for its anti-aging effect. 10. Use of a composition according to one of claims 1 to 8 for the cosmetic treatment for lightening the complexion. 11. Use of a composition according to one of claims 1 to 8 for the cosmetic treatment for unifying the complexion.