FR3018189A1 - COSMETIC / DERMATOLOGICAL COMPOSITION COMPRISING AT LEAST ONE ESSENTIAL OIL OF CISTE AND ITS USE - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention relates to a cosmetic or dermatological composition comprising an essential oil of Cistus ladaniferus. It also relates to the cosmetic use of an essential oil of Cistus ladaniferus as a cosmetic active ingredient, in particular for its protective, repairing, stimulating and remodeling effects. It also relates to an essential oil of Cistus ladaniferus for use as a dermatological agent, especially as a healing agent.

Description

The present invention relates to a cosmetic and / or dermatological composition comprising an essential oil of Cistus ladaniferus. BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION It also relates to the cosmetic use of an essential oil of Cistus ladaniferus as a cosmetic active ingredient, in particular for its protective, repairing, stimulating and remodeling effects. It also relates to an essential oil of Cistus ladaniferus for use as a dermatological agent, especially as a healing agent. The present invention finds application particularly in the fields of cosmetics or dermatology.

State of the art The skin is a vital organ in its own right which consists of three distinct tissues, each assuming different roles through different cell types and structures.

The hypodermis, located in depth and consisting for the most part of fat lobules (adipocytes), provides a primary support function, mechanical and thermal protection and also plays a role in storing energy reserves. In the intermediate position, the dermis is also a connective tissue mainly invested with fibroblasts and matrix proteins giving the skin its qualities of compressibility and elasticity known. Within the conjunctive framework, other cells and structures are inserted, such as an important circulatory and nutritive network, consisting of blood vessels and lymphatic capillaries and epidermal appendices (hair, nails, pilosebaceous glands and sweat glands) which take birth in the deep dermis.

The dermal matrix and the cells that synthesize it (the fibroblasts) are particularly fragile to attacks of the Ultra-Violet (UV) type, for example the UVA, which is very energetic and can penetrate at 80% into the dermis. Damage can be irreversible: degradation and breakdown of protein fibers (collagen, elastin ...), cell damage, loss of ability to repair and renewal until cell death. These important damages can damage all the dermal tissue, causing losses of the biomechanical qualities (wrinkles, relaxation, ptosis ...).

The dermis is, moreover, the seat of remodeling (structuring of the matrix) and healing, which also includes a necessary remodeling phase and very important for the reconstruction of cutaneous tissue. For all these reasons, stimulating the proliferative capacities of fibroblasts, their defense, resistance and repair capacities, as well as their propensity to synthesize collagen, is an absolute need to ensure a good aesthetic and functional state of the dermis and the skin. general. The most surface tissue and therefore the most exposed is the epidermis. This multilayered (Malpighian) and keratinizing epithelium, the outermost part of which is the stratum corneum, consists of different cells associated with many protective barrier functions. The majority cells are the keratinocytes which, by their proliferation / differentiation processes, result in the formation of the horny layer known for its appearance and its hydrophobic, compact and tight properties. The main role of the epidermis is therefore to provide the skin, via differentiation and the stratum corneum, with a first line of protection against chemical, thermal, waterborne and bacteriological physical aggressions. Keratinocyte differentiation is an oriented maturation of epidermal keratinocytes into corneocytes (keratinocytes of the stratum corneum) during which cells change size, morphology, biochemical composition, membrane nature, and biological activity. Corneocytes are dead, anucleated keratinocytes that pile up on the surface of the skin, before desquamating. They thus form a compact and highly hydrophobic layer through which the penetration of exogenous agents or water losses are not normally possible. This process of differentiation is also accompanied by modifications of the components and cellular structures such as interkeratinocyte junctions which are increasingly represented as a function of differentiation.

Intercellular junctions are characteristic areas of epithelial cell membranes that allow strong cell adhesion to one another. They represent areas of interaction of the plasma membrane with the cytoskeleton and, in fact, areas of intercellular communication. They can be subdivided into three categories: anchorage junctions (mechanical junctions), communicating junctions and impervious junctions (watertight junctions). Also known as tight junctions (zonula occludens), the tight junctions provide fusion cohesion of the outer layers of the membranes of two adjacent cells. The occludin and claudin transmembrane proteins bind the actin micro-filaments through the ZO1 to ZO3 proteins at these junctions. They are localized on all the polarized cells of the unistratified and pluristratified epithelia and have a direct link with the differentiation, with an expression gradient depending on the differentiation. They are present mainly in the stratum granulosum. They ensure, in addition to the differentiation itself, a role of protection and waterproofness of the epidermal tissue. They contribute to the barrier function of the epidermis, protecting our entire body from the outside and reciprocally from water loss. Tight junctions are therefore involved in the regulation of skin hydration, in the protection of skin and in wound healing processes.

Keratinocytes are therefore the first-line defense cells against external aggressions (microbiological, physical (UV), thermal, pollution, etc.). Consolidate them, strengthen their resistance and condition them for a better reactivity is an important way to consider for a cosmetic or dermatological action. However, few or none of the compositions of the prior art allow to act at the same time on the cellular mechanisms of hydration, protection, repair, remodeling and healing in order to condition the skin for a better operation, for example to improve the resistance and / or regeneration of the skin, whether before and / or after damage of any nature whatsoever. In addition, few compositions or creams of the art can modify the cellular reactivity for preventive and / or curative action, in particular to mitigate the effects of aging, especially those caused by UV radiation or pollution. There are therefore real needs to find new cosmetic or dermatological compositions, and / or compounds, to act at the same time on the cellular mechanisms of hydration, protection, repair, remodeling and healing. In addition, there is a real need to find compounds for modifying cellular responsiveness for preventive and / or curative action. SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION The present invention is specifically intended to meet these needs of the prior art by providing cosmetic or dermatological compositions comprising a Ciste essential oil. The inventors are in fact the first to have discovered, in particular, that the essential oil of Ciste makes it possible to act at the same time at the level of the cellular mechanisms of the hydration, protection, repair, stimulation, remodeling and / or healing.

Also, the inventors are the first to have discovered, surprisingly, that essential oils stimulate, in particular, collagen synthesis and the expression of claudin-1. The work of the inventors has made it possible to develop compositions for cosmetic or dermatological uses, especially for the aforementioned applications. Thus, the present invention particularly relates to the use of an essential oil of Ciste as a cosmetic active. According to the invention, the essential oil of Ciste is the essential oil of Cistus ladaniferus L. also called "Cistus ladaniferus" or "Cista ladanifère". The Cistus is a plant from the family Cistaceae. The Ladaniferous Cistus is a Mediterranean wild shrub found on expanses of several thousand hectares in Andalusia where it colonizes the fallow land. In April, this shrub is covered with beautiful ephemeral flowers of white color with red spots at the base of the petals. The petals have a crumpled silk aspect which gave it the name of "rose of the rocks". The leaves are green-gray and shiny on the upper side, and are dull and sticky on the inner side. The shrub produces a viscous and fragrant gum, called labdanum, which helps protect it from heat and evaporation. According to the invention, the term "essential oil of Cistus ladaniferus" for example a concentrated extract of volatile compounds of Cistus ladaniferus.

According to the invention, the essential oil of Cistus ladaniferus may comprise at least 100, preferably at least 200, preferably at least 300 compounds, 40 of which represent 80% of the overall chemical composition of monoterpenes, monoterpenols, sesquiterpenes, sesquiterpenols, ketones, terpene esters, oxides, aldehydes, acids and eugenol of said essential oil. Advantageously, according to the invention, the essential oil of Cistus ladaniferus may comprise at least one of the compounds chosen from alpha-pinene, viridiflorol (or ledol or globulol), viridoflorene (or ledene), bornyl acetate , paracymene and trans-pinocarveol or the mixture thereof. According to the invention, the essential oil of Cistus ladaniferus may be a commercially available essential oil. It may be for example an essential oil of organic Cistus ladaniferus marketed by the company Biolandes (Le Sen - Les Landes - France). According to the invention, the essential oil of Cistus ladaniferus can be obtained by any essential oil extraction process known to those skilled in the art. It may be for example a method by hydrodistillation, for example hydrodistillation of a plant and / or part of a plant in a still where the volatile constituents are driven by water vapor and then condensed and recovered in the decantation vessel (the essencier). The essential oil can be obtained in the settling tank in the form of an organic phase, and supernatant an aqueous phase in which can be solubilized a part of the organic compounds entrained by distillation According to the invention, whatever the process For obtaining the essential oil, it can be obtained, for example, from whole plants and / or from one or more parts of the plant. Advantageously, the essential oil of Cistus ladaniferus is obtained from the leaves of the plant with or without the twigs. According to the invention, the essential oil of Cistus ladaniferus as a cosmetic active ingredient, or a cosmetic composition comprising it, in particular a cosmetic composition according to the invention, can be used to protect and / or repair the skin or the skin. mucous membranes, and / or to moisturize the skin or mucous membranes, and / or to prevent and / or attenuate the effects of aging of the skin or mucous membranes, and / or to reshape the dermis.

In the present, the term "attenuate the effects of aging", an action of protection and / or regeneration of the skin and mucous membranes. In particular, this action can improve the firmness or reduce the loss of firmness of the skin or mucous membranes.

It may also allow prevention and / or delay and / or limitation of loosening of the skin or mucous membranes. It can also help fight against aging of the skin or mucous membranes. The attenuation of the effects of aging according to the invention may also be an action of prevention and / or delay and / or limitation of accelerated aging, called exogenous aging, caused by environmental stresses, for example ultraviolet or pollution this is called photo-induced aging, or chronological aging, called endogenous aging. The attenuation of the effects of aging according to the invention may be furthermore a firming action and / or an improvement of the bio-mechanical qualities of the skin or mucous membranes. The attenuation of the effects of aging according to the invention may furthermore be a limitation of cutaneous ptosis. The attenuation of the effects of aging according to the invention may be further an action of restoring, maintaining or strengthening the collagen synthesis. As used herein, the term "protect and / or repair" means prevention and / or repair action in relation to damage to the skin, possibly caused by environmental stresses to which the skin may be subjected. It may be, for example ultraviolet (UV) radiation, thermal stress, water and / or pollution. Indeed, ultraviolet (UV) radiation, thermal stress, water and / or pollution are likely to alter the skin and / or the cells that compose it. They may, for example, cause an alteration of their function, their metabolism, their defense systems, up to cell death.

Here, "protect" means, for example, a limitation of induced skin damage, for example by ultraviolet (UV) radiation, heat stress, water and / or pollution.

Hereby "repair" means, for example a better reactivity, a return to a normal skin situation, for example the return to a skin / skin surface healthy and / or normal and / or initial after said skin / surface dermal tissue, for example induced skin damage, for example by ultraviolet (UV) radiation, heat stress, water and / or pollution. In the present, the term "remodel", a repair action not only cellular, but also tissue, which allows to rearrange the skin to return to an initial situation. It may be for example a deep matrix reshaping action and / or healing. Advantageously, the present invention allows the stimulation of tight junction proteins, in particular claudin-1. The stimulation of the tight junctions according to the present invention advantageously makes it possible to improve the protection, the restoration and the regeneration of the epidermal barrier function and the maintenance of epidermal hydration. In particular, the stimulation of claudin-1 advantageously makes it possible to consolidate and functionalize tight junctions at the keratinocyte level. Thus, the cosmetic use according to the present invention can also be a consolidation of the tight junctions, in particular by the stimulation of claudin 1. The present invention also relates to a cosmetic and / or dermatological composition comprising at least one essential oil of Cistus ladaniferus. and at least one cosmetically and / or dermatologically acceptable vehicle.

In the present "cosmetic composition" is meant any cosmetic composition, ie a composition that can be placed in contact with the superficial parts of the human body, for example the epidermis, the hair and capillary systems, the external organs , teeth and mucous membranes. As used herein, "dermatological composition" is intended to mean any composition for dermatological purposes, that is to say a composition that can be brought into contact with the superficial parts of the human body, for example the epidermis, the hair and capillary systems, the external organs , teeth and mucous membranes. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "mucous membranes" is intended to mean, in particular, the upper and lower lips of the mouth. In the present context, the term "cosmetically and / or dermatologically acceptable vehicle" means any vehicle suitable for use in contact with human and animal cells, in particular the cells of the epidermis, without toxicity, irritation, undue allergic response and similar, and proportionate to a reasonable benefit / risk ratio. The cosmetic and / or dermatological composition acceptable according to the invention may comprise one or more adjuvants known to those skilled in the art. It may be, for example, one or more adjuvant (s) chosen from among ester type agents, moisturizing agents, emollient agents, mineral thickeners, organic thickeners, associative or not water-soluble and fat-soluble organic sunscreens, mineral sunscreens, silicone compounds, perfumes, preservatives, vitamins, proteins, sequestering agents, alkanizing agents, acidifying agents, reducing agents, oxidizing agents, mineral fillers, dyes or any other adjuvant that may be mentioned in the INCI (International Nomenclature Cosmetic Ingredients) dictionary published by the CTFA (Cosmetic, Toiletry and Fragrance Association).

According to the invention, the composition may further comprise at least one, at least two, at least three essential oils of another plant than Cistus ladaniferus. These essential oils can be obtained, for example, according to the processes for obtaining essential oil described herein. For example, the composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one essential oil chosen from the essential oils of cinnamosma, lemon, geranium, neroli, sage, orange, rose, cedar, lavender, myrrh or any other essential oil mentioned in the INCI (International Nomenclature Cosmetic Ingredients) dictionary published by the CTFA (Cosmetic, Toiletry and Fragrance Association). Particularly advantageous compositions according to the invention may be, for example, compositions comprising, in addition to Cistus ladaniferus oil, at least two other essential oils, especially from those mentioned above. According to the invention, the essential oil or a mixture of essential oils may, for example, be present in a composition at a content ranging from 0.0001% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, for example from 0.0001% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.001 to 2% by weight, more preferably from 0.05 to 2% by weight. It is generally not required levels of essential oil of Cistus ladaniferus greater than 5%, or even 10%, by weight in a cosmetic composition according to the invention. Nevertheless, levels of essential oil of Cistus ladaniferus greater than 5% or even 10% by weight are not excluded from the scope of the present invention. According to the invention, the cosmetic or dermatological composition may, for example, be in any form known to those skilled in the art. It may be, for example, a form chosen from an ointment, a cream, an oil, a milk, an ointment, a powder, a solution, a gel, for example an aqueous or hydroalcoholic gel, a lotion, by an aqueous or hydroalcoholic lotion, a suspension and an emulsion. When the composition according to the invention is an emulsion, it may be, for example, an oil-in-water emulsion, water-in-oil or water in silicone. In addition, the emulsion may be a multiple emulsion, a miniemulsion, a microemulsion, a nanoemulsion, a solid emulsion. The composition of the invention may be obtained by any suitable method known to those skilled in the art for the manufacture of a cosmetic or dermatological composition. It may be, for example a simple mixture. It may also be, for example, a method comprising a step of incorporating an internal phase into an external phase by means of an emulsifier, for example a rotor-stator type turbine. It may also be for example a method using the Phase Inversion Temperature (TIP) method conventionally used by those skilled in the art to obtain oil-in-water emulsions whose dispersed droplets are particularly fine, for example with a diameter of 0.1 to 1 μm. The present invention also relates to the use of at least one essential oil according to the invention for the manufacture of a cosmetic or dermatological composition as described above. The composition according to the invention may be packaged, that is to say contained, for example in a jar, a pump bottle, a wipe, a mask, a stick, a soaked swab, a transdermal device, a patch, a spray, a capsule or a capsule.

Thus the present invention also relates to a device in a form selected from a pot, a pump bottle, a wipe, a mask, a stick, a soaked pad, a transdermal device, a patch, a spray, a capsule or a capsule, said device comprising a cosmetic or dermatological composition according to the present invention.

The present invention also relates to a cosmetic treatment method comprising applying to the skin or the mucous membranes of a cosmetic composition according to the invention. For this application, it is possible, for example, to use the galenic forms described above. The application to the skin can therefore be carried out according to the dosage form used. This application can advantageously be accompanied by a massage. The application can be, for example a daily daily application, weekly. It may be for example an application once a day, twice a day or several times a day. The cosmetic treatment method according to the invention may in particular allow the prevention or the treatment of aggressions such as ultraviolet (UV) radiation and / or pollution. In addition, the cosmetic treatment method according to the invention advantageously makes it possible to moisturize the skin and / or to fight against the signs of skin aging, for example the signs of cutaneous aging induced by UV radiation and / or by pollution. Preferably, any cosmetic use and / or cosmetic process according to the invention are respectively non-therapeutic cosmetic uses and / or non-therapeutic cosmetic processes. In particular, any cosmetic use and / or any cosmetic process according to the invention may in particular be intended for skin or mucous membranes that do not have a pathological state. Another object of the invention is a dermatological composition according to the invention or an essential oil of Cistus ladaniferus for use as a dermatological agent. When the dermatological composition according to the invention or the essential oil Cistus ladaniferus is used as a dermatological agent according to the invention, it is for example a use on a skin and / or a mucosa presenting or likely to present a degraded and / or pathological state. It may be for example a degraded state and / or pathological transient or acquired. It may be for example an inflamed skin and / or irritated and / or atopic and / or xerotic. The skilled person, by virtue of his general knowledge via including the observation of a skin and / or mucosa, can identify skin and / or mucosa with a degraded state and / or pathological. The dermatological composition or the essential oil of Cistus ladaniferus for use as a dermatological agent according to the invention may in particular be used as a healing agent. Advantageously, the present invention provides, in particular, means of action at the level of the cellular mechanisms of hydration, protection, repair, stimulation and remodeling in order to condition the skin and / or the mucous membranes advantageously allowing better functioning, for example, resistance and / or regeneration of the skin and / or mucous membranes before and / or after damage of an aesthetic nature. The present invention also provides means for treating the skin or mucous membranes, for example when they present a pathological condition such as a wound. The present invention may be used, for example, to prevent and / or treat epidermal and / or dermal tissue from external aggressions, for example physical, chemical, thermal, hydric, and solar attacks and / or the effects of these aggressions. and to improve the consequences. Other advantages may still appear to those skilled in the art on reading the examples below, given by way of illustration and not limitation. Brief Description of the Figures - Figure 1 is a diagram showing the protein structure of a tight junction. FIG. 2 represents photographs, FIGS. 2A to D, of skin explants after immunostaining of claudin 1 as a function of the presence in the medium of Hibiscrub® (FIG. 2B), Hibiscrub and 0.005% by weight of essential oil of Cistus ladaniferus (Figure 2 C), Hibiscrub (registered trademark) and 0.05% by weight of essential oil of Cistus ladaniferus (Figure 2 D).

EXAMPLES Example 1: Preparation of the extract of Cistus ladaniferus The essential oil of Ciste is an essential oil extracted from the fresh leafy twigs, covered with resinous and sticky gum. This is hydrodistillation of fresh branches picked less than 12 hours before hydrodistillation. The hydrodistillation process lasts approximately twenty-four hours at atmospheric pressure in order to preserve all the olfactory richness of the essential oil. The essential oil of Ciste is in the form of an orange-yellow organic phase with amber, resinous, spicy and leathery notes.

EXAMPLE 2 Effect of the Essential Oil of Cistus Ladaniferus on Cell Protection and Cell Repair From normal human dermal fibroblastic cells (FDHN) obtained by enzymatic method of abdominal plastids, a physical stress (UV) was induced by a irradiation energy dose of 25 760W / m2 delivered for 17 minutes by a solar irradiator (SUNTEST CPS +), to cause about 50% of cell death. Following this stress, a fluorimetric CellTiter-Blue assay was performed to quantify the mitochondrial metabolic activity corresponding to the residual cell viability with or without irradiation. The fibroblasts were seeded on D1 in 96-well plates at 22,000 cells / well / 100 μl of DMEM High Glucose nutrient medium without phenol red, containing 10% newborn calf serum (SVNN) (Invitrogen). 16010, lot 5396405D), 1% non-essential amino acid solution (Invitrogen ref.11040), 1% Penicillin Streptomycin, 1% L-Glutamine and 1% pyruvate solution. sodium. Two plates per active ingredient were seeded: one is the stress test plate and the other is the unstressed control plate. Plaques were treated preventively (treatment before stress) and / or curative (treatment after stress).

The cells were placed in an incubator at 37 ° C, 5% CO2 and 95% humidity for 24 hours. After 24 hours of culture (D1), an essential oil of Cistus ladaniferus of Example 1 (HE Ciste) was tested for 24 hours either under preventive conditions (D2), or under curative conditions (D3), or with both conditions met (D2 and D3). The essential oil of Cistus ladaniferus used was a liquid extract which was diluted to 1% in DMSO. The concentration tested was 8.10-5%. Two controls were used: - Untreated stressed control (internal to the stressed plate). It is composed of 10% SVNN medium consisting of DMEM High Glucose without phenol red, 10% SVNN, 1% non-essential amino acid solution, 1% Penicillin Streptomycin, 1% L-Glutamine and 1% of a solution of sodium pyruvate. - Untreated, untreated control: this is the control plaque made in the same way as the stressed plaque, but which does not undergo any physical stress. It is also brought into contact with the seed medium with 10% SVNN. Cell viability was estimated by a fluorimetric assay with Cell-Titer Blue (Promega, ref G8080), which measures mitochondrial protein activity and thus determines cell viability following exposure to irradiation. The data in Table I below show the percentage of residual cell viability of fibroblasts according to the treatment undergone.

Table I: These results clearly demonstrate that the residual cell viability after treatment with the essential oil of Cistus ladaniferus is always increased compared to the control. The treatment with the essential oil of Cistus ladaniferus thus advantageously makes it possible to condition the dermal cells for a better resistance to UV stresses, allowing them a better repair in curative treatment. From a more general point of view, the essential oil of Cistus ladaniferus may thus allow repair, healing and better general prevention of the cellular structures of the dermis. EXAMPLE 3 Effect of Ciste Essential Oil on Collagen Synthesis Various studies were performed on normal human dermal fibroblasts obtained by enzymatic method of abdominal or mammary plastids seeded as a monolayer in the control cells. residual (CTB) plate irradiated at 760W / m2 -17min relative to the non-irradiated plate plate irradiated at 760W / m2 -17min compared to the control reported at 100% unirradiated plate HE Ciste 8.10-5% curative preventive 104 45 123 104 Suitable culture conditions with DMEM medium (Dulbecco's medium - Invitrogen). The study of collagen synthesis was carried out on monolayer cultures of fibroblasts cultured in a proliferation medium and then treated with the essential oil of Cistus ladaniferus of Example 1 (HE Ciste) (2.10-3% by volume). volume of medium) for 48 hours, in 6-well plates and in basal medium. The assay was performed on the culture supernatants by colorimetric method (SIRCOL Soluble Collagen Assay, ref 054S1000). According to this method, the staining reagent (Sirius red) reacts specifically with the helical units of type [Gly-X-Y] n of collagen type I to XIV. The colored complex is condensed after centrifugation and then solubilized by an alkaline solution for the assay. The positive internal reference is vitamin C (20 μg / ml). The calculations presented in Table II below were made from the medium alone (dilution) relative to a 100 base. Table II: The addition of extract of the essential oil of Cistus ladaniferus stimulates the synthesis up to 413% collagen, and thus potentially improve the biomechanical qualities of the dermis, improve matrix remodeling and promote certain processes of healing.

Vitamin C + 330% 20μg / ml + 413% 2.10-3% HE Ciste Synthesis of collagen (48h) Elements tested Concentrations Example 4: Effect of the essential oil of Cistus ladaniferus on the synthesis of the elements of keratinocyte junctions Skin explants human normal from the company BIOPREDIC (Rennes - France) were cultured under different conditions to cause an inflammatory state (stress SDS or capric acid) and / or to cause the disorganization of the barrier function, in the presence or in absence of the essential oil of Cistus ladaniferus. The medium was supplemented with Hibiscrub® (Trade Mark) at a concentration of 4% to cause an inflammatory condition. The skin explants were cultured for 24 hours at a temperature of 37 ° C in a humid atmosphere containing 5% CO2.

The claudin-1 protein (tight junction membrane protein) was then visualized by immunolabeling with an antibody (commercially obtained from Zymed Laboratories (Trademark) France) and a secondary revelation with peroxidase. The labeling was visualized with an optical microscope, and quantified using histolab (trademark) image analysis software. The results are in the form of images and percentages. The percentage corresponds to the labeling ratio relative to the untreated control.

The labeling obtained after treatment with the essential oil of Cistus ladaniferus at a concentration of 0.005% and 0.05% by weight, shows a significant increase in intensity at the cytoplasmic level and at the membrane level. FIGS. 2A to D are photographs showing explants of skins after immunomarkings of claudin 1 as a function of the presence or not (FIG. 2 A) in Hibiscrub® (registered trademark) medium (local antiseptic combined with an agent foaming agent, whose active substance is a solution of chlorhexidine gluconate) (FIG. 2B), Hibiscrub® and 0.005% by weight of essential oil of Cistus ladaniferus (FIG. 2C), Hibiscrub® and O. 05% by weight of essential oil of Cistus ladaniferus (Figure 2 D).

As demonstrated in FIGS. 2C and 2D, the presence in the medium of essential oil of Cistus ladaniferus makes it possible to inhibit the effect of the stress linked, in particular to the presence of Sodium Dodecyl Sulfate or capric acid, and to the presence of inflammatory state induced by Hibiscrub®.

This example demonstrates that the application of essential oil of Cistus ladaniferus makes it possible to inhibit the effect of stress and thus to restore the barrier function by stimulating the expression of the proteins that signify the junctional structures of the epidermis. The protective effects of the epidermal barrier (via differentiation) will therefore be reinforced by the treatment. EXAMPLE 5 Examples of Cosmetic Compositions In this example, the essential oil of Cistus ladaniferus (HE Ciste) is an essential oil of Cistus ladaniferus obtained according to Example 1.

The content of each component, expressed according to their INCI nomenclature, is expressed as a percentage by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Q.S.P. 100% "means" enough quantity to reach 100%. 5.1 Cosmetic composition for the care of the body comprising an essential oil (HE) of Ciste The cosmetic composition below corresponds to an example of a topical composition for the care of the body. The present composition has been developed so as to have the viscosity of a thick milk, which can allow its application on a large body surface. Components Content Q.S.P. 100% Aqua Glycerin 6% Xanthan gum 0.15% Carbomer 0.2% Allantoin 0.10% 5.2 Protective cosmetic composition for the care of the face comprising an essential oil (HE) of Ciste The cosmetic composition below Below is an example of a topical composition for facial care. The present composition has been developed in order to be applied, either as a facial treatment in a conventional manner or as a thick layer of the mask type. Components Content Aqua Q.S.P. 100% Biosaccharide-Gum-4 0.01 ° / 0 Glyceryl Stearate 2.75% PEG-100 Stearate 0.2 ° / 0 Ceteareth-20 0.45% Urea 2.5 ° / 0 Niacinamide 2 ° / 0 Fragrance 0 , 2 ° / 0 HE of Ciste 0.05% HE of Lemon CJ, 2 ° / 0 HE of Cinnamosma 0.10 / 0 Preservative (s) 0.01 to 2% 2 ° / 0 Cetearyl alcohol 80/0 Paraffinum liquidum 2 ° / 0 Butyrospermum parkii butter 2 ° / 0 Octyldodecanol 6 ° / 0 Isopropyl palmitate 30/0 Methylpropanediol 2 ° / 0 Pentylene glycol 2 ° / 0 Tocopheryl acetate Other (s) Essential oil (s) 0.001 to 2% Agent (s) regulator (s) of pH 0.001 to 1% Agent (s) regulator (s) of viscosity 0.01 to 1% 5.3 Cosmetic composition for the care of the lips including an essential oil (HE) of Ciste La Cosmetic composition below corresponds to an example of a topical composition for the care of the lips. The present composition has been developed to be applied in stick or stick. Glycerin 40/0 Xanthan gum 0, -I 5 ° / 0 Cellulose gum 0, -I 5 ° / 0 Carbomer 0.2 ° / 0 Glycol (s) 5 ° / 0 Allantoin 0.10 / 0 PEG-40 stearate 3 , 2 ° / 0 Stearic acid 1.5% Dimethicone 10/0 Hydrolysed soy protein 0.05% Urea 2 ° / 0 Fragrance 0.2 ° / 0 HE Ciste 0.15% HE Geranium 0.2 ° / 0 Neroli HE 0.05% Preservative (s) 0.01 to 2% 80/0 Coco caprylate / caprate 2 ° / 0 Cetyl alcohol 5 ° / 0 Glyceryl stearate 10/0 Cera microcrystalline 2 ° / 0 Butyrospermum parkii butter 10/0 Tocopherol (s) Other (s) Essential oil (s) 0.001 to 2% Agent (s) regulator (s) with viscosity 0.01 to 1% Agent (s) pH regulator (s) 0.001 at 1% 5.4 Cosmetic composition for the care of the face comprising an essential oil (HE) of Ciste The cosmetic composition below corresponds to another example of a topical composition for the care of the face and / or the body having a suitable dosage form which can be applied through a roll-on applicator. Components Content Q.S.P. 100% Vegetable oil Ozokerite 9 ° / 0 Cera alba 10% Fragrance 0.4 ° / 0 HE Ciste 0.1% HE Sage 0.05% HE Orange 0.2 ° / 0 5 ° / 0 Butyrospermum parkii butter 25 % Hydrogenated vegetable oil 15% Polybutene 30/0 Cera microcrystalline 30/0 Polyethylene 15% Caprylyl / capric triglyceride 2 ° / 0 Stearyl alcohol 10/0 Tocopherol (s) Other (s) Essential oil (s) 0.001 to 2 % QSP Content Components 100% Aqua Glycerin 5 ° / 0 5 ° / 0 Glycol (s) Ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate / VP copolymer 1.9% Methylpropanediol 30/0 5.5 BODY BALM: Cosmetic composition for body care including an essential oil (HE) from Ciste La Cosmetic composition below corresponds to another example of a topical composition for body care. The present composition has been developed according to a galenic type balm can be applied to areas of the body, such as hands, requiring intense care. Methylsilanol mannuronate 0.02% Hydrolysed soy flour 0.05% Escin 0.30 / 0 Fragrance 0.2 ° / 0 HE Ciste 0.05% HE Rose 0.01 ° / 0 HE Cedar 0.10 / 0 Agent (s) 0.01 to 2% Glyceryl acrylate / acrylic acid copolymer 0.01 ° / 0 Other Essential oil (s) 0.001 to 2% Agent (s) viscosity regulator (s) 0.01 to 1% Agent (s) pH regulator (s) 0.001 to 1% Components Content QSP 100% Aqua Xanthan gum C), 2 ° / 0 Glycerin 10% Allantoin 0.2 ° / 0 Sorbitan stearate 2.5 ° / 0 PEG-100 stearate 0.25% Glyceryl behenate 3.5 ° / 0 Stearyl alcohol 2, 5 ° / 0 Palmitic acid 4.5 ° / 0 Acrylates / C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer 0.25% Theobroma cocoa seed butter 3.5 ° / 0 Copernicia cerifera cera 2.5 ° / 0 Dimethicone 2 ° / 0 Fragrance Cl , 30/0 HE Ciste 0.05% HE Lavender 0.2% HE Myrrh 0.10 / 0 Preservative Agent (s) 0.01-2% 6% Ethyl Hexyl Cocoate 5 ° / 0 Cocos nucifera oil 10/0 Tocopherol (s) Other (s) Essential oil (s) 0.001 to 2% Agent (s) viscosity regulator (s) 0.01 to 1% Regulating agent (s) pH 0.001 to 1%

Claims (10)

REVENDICATIONS1. Use of an essential oil of Cistus ladaniferus as a cosmetic active ingredient. 2. Cosmetic use according to claim 1, for protecting the skin or the mucous membranes, and / or for moisturizing the skin or the mucous membranes, and / or for preventing and / or attenuating the effects of aging of the skin or mucous membranes, and / or to reshape the dermis. 3. Cosmetic use according to claim 1 or 2, in which the essential oil of Cistus ladaniferus comprises at least one of the compounds chosen from alpha-pinene, viridiflorol, viridoflorene, bornyl acetate and para-cymene. and trans-pinocarveol or the mixture thereof. 4. Cosmetic or dermatological composition comprising at least one essential oil of Cistus ladaniferus and a cosmetically and / or dermatologically acceptable vehicle, said composition comprising from 0.0001 to 5% by weight of said essential oil of Cistus ladaniferus with respect to the total weight of the composition. Cosmetic or dermatological composition according to claim 4, in which the essential oil of Cistus ladaniferus comprises at least one of the compounds chosen from alpha-pinene, viridiflorol, viridoflorene, bornyl acetate and para-cymene. and transpinocarveol or mixture thereof. 6. Cosmetic or dermatological composition according to claim 4 or 5, said composition being in a form chosen from an ointment, a cream, an oil, a milk, an ointment, a powder, a solution, a gel, a lotion, a suspension and an emulsion. 7. Device in a form selected from a pot, a pump bottle, a wipe, a mask, a stick, a soaked pad, a transdermal device, a patch, a spray, a capsule or a capsule, said device comprising a composition according to any one of claims 4 to 6. 8. Essential oil of Cistus ladaniferus, for use as a dermatological agent. 9. Cistus ladaniferus essential oil for use according to claim 8 for use as a healing agent. 10. Non-therapeutic cosmetic process comprising the application to the skin or the mucous membranes of a cosmetic composition according to any one of Claims 4 to 6.