FR2998478A1 - Cosmetic use of a mixture of essential oils of lemon catnip, Citronella, clove, lemongrass, Melissa officinalis, green oregano, rosemary, mountain savory and thyme, as desquamating agent and for treating ichthyosis and atopic dermatitis - Google Patents

Abstract

Cosmetic use of a mixture of essential oils of lemon catnip, Citronella, clove, lemongrass, Melissa officinalis, green oregano, rosemary, mountain savory or savory perennial, and thyme, as desquamating agent, is claimed. ACTIVITY : Dermatological; Keratolytic; Antipsoriatic. MECHANISM OF ACTION : None given.

Description

The present invention relates to the field of cosmetic or dermatological uses with respect to the skin. In particular, the present invention relates to the use of a mixture of essential oils as desquamating agent. By "skin" is meant all of the skin of the body, including the scalp, mucous membranes and semi-mucous membranes, and its annexes. By "appendages of the skin" is meant hairs, eyelashes, hair, and nails. More particularly, it is considered in the present invention the skin of the neckline, neck and face, including the skin of the face, as well as the skin of the feet and hands, and the scalp. The skin consists of two compartments, one superficial, the epidermis, and one deeper, the dermis, which interact with each other. The epidermis is conventionally divided into a basal layer of keratinocytes constituting the germinal layer of the epidermis, a so-called spinous layer consisting of several layers of polyhedral cells arranged on the germinal layers, one to three layers called granular, and finally the stratum corneum. (or Stratum Corneum, SC), consisting of a set of layers of keratinocytes at the end stage of their differentiation called corneocytes. Corneocytes are anucleate cells mainly composed of a fibrous matrix containing cytokeratins, surrounded by a very strong structure of 15 nm thick, called horny or cornified envelope. The stacking of corneocytes constitutes the stratum corneum which is responsible for the barrier function of the epidermis. During the normal desquamation process, the most superficial corneocytes become detached from the surface of the epidermis. In a number of situations, it may be desirable to stimulate this desquamation mechanism or process to promote epidermal renewal and restore or enhance a physiologically healthy skin condition. In particular, the stimulation of the peeling mechanism of the skin can be used to improve the radiance of the complexion, reduce surface irregularities and smooth the skin, or to promote the cleaning action and elimination of dead cells on the surface of the body and scalp. In certain situations, one can also see a thickening of the stratum corneum that it is desired to limit, for example in the case of callosities or after exposure to the sun. Moreover, in certain aesthetic defects or pathological disorders of the skin, desquamation becomes visible, and large scales with numerous corneocytes are eliminated. Such a situation may lead, for example, to a dandruff condition of the scalp.

The dysregulations of desquamation are better described at the molecular level and associated with abnormal skin aspects. Ichthyosis is generally an example of altered epidermal differentiation associated with abnormal desquamation. In psoriasis and atopic dermatitis, disorders associated with abnormal desquamation have also been shown. Finally, the appearance of dandruff is another example of a defect of desquamation where the dander are abnormally visible. Modulating, and in particular regulating and / or promoting, desquamation of the skin can thus contribute to exert a beneficial effect with respect to various skin conditions. A large number of sources report the properties of essential oils on the skin. For example, EP 2,298,275 describes a composition comprising an essential oil extract of rosemary capable of stimulating the hydration of the skin. However, there is still a need for new assets that can exert an action on the process of skin peeling, with a view to regulate, promote or even stimulate it. There is also a need for new assets from natural extracts as desquamating agents. There is also a need for assets to promote, restore or enhance the homeostasis of the epidermis through the regulation of desquamation. There is also a need for new desquamating agents capable of exerting a cosmetic or therapeutic effect. There is also a need for new assets to treat and / or prevent cosmetic skin defects resulting from, or associated with, alteration of skin peeling. Such defects may in particular be a dandruff condition of the scalp, or an alteration of the complexion or the surface of the skin. There is still a need for new active ingredients to promote and / or reinforce the hydration of the skin, and in particular to prevent and / or treat dry skin or signs of cutaneous dryness, by acting, in particular, at the level of the skin. regulating the desquamation of the skin. There is also a need for new active agents for treating and / or preventing a pathological disorder of the skin resulting from, or being associated with, an alteration of skin desquamation, such as atopic dermatitis, ichthyosis , hyperkeratosis, or psoriasis.

There is also a need for new active agents that make it possible to reinforce the skin barrier function properties, by acting, in particular, on the regulation of skin desquamation. The object of the present invention is to satisfy these needs.

The invention relates to the cosmetic use, topically, as desquamating agent, of a mixture of essential oils of lemon grass catkin, lemongrass, clove, lemongrass, lemon balm, green oregano, Rosemary, Sarriette des Montagnes or Savory Savory, and Thyme. More particularly, the invention relates to the cosmetic use, topically, as an desquamating agent, of a mixture of essential oils consisting of a mixture of essential oils of lemon grass, Lemongrass, Clove, Lemongrass , Lemon balm, Green oregano, Rosemary, Savory mountain or Savory savory, and Thyme. Unexpectedly, the inventors have observed that a mixture of essential oils according to the invention limits and reduces the cohesion of Stratum Corneum, and has a desquamating effect on the skin. For the purposes of the invention, the term "desquamating agent" is intended to mean any compound capable of acting either on the enzymes involved in the desquamation or the degradation of the corneodesmosomes, or directly on the desquamation by promoting exfoliation and / or limiting the cohesion of Stratum Corneum. According to an alternative embodiment, a mixture of essential oils of the invention may be present in a composition in a content ranging from 0.001% to 5% relative to the total weight of said composition. According to yet another of its objects, the present invention relates to a mixture of essential oils of the invention in a therapeutic or dermatological composition for preventing and / or treating ichthyosis, atopic dermatitis, hyperkeratosis, or psoriasis. According to yet another of its objects, the present invention relates to a cosmetic method for regulating or promoting desquamation of a skin comprising at least one step consisting in administering, topically, to an individual in need, at least one mixture of essential oils of the invention, or a composition of the invention.

Essential oils A mixture of essential oils according to the invention may comprise, and preferably consists of, a mixture of essential oils of lemon grass, Lemongrass, Clove, Lemongrass, Lemon balm, Green oregano , Rosemary, Sarriette des Montagnes or Savory Savory, and Thyme. A lemon catnip (Nepeta cataria L. citriodora BECK) essential oil suitable for the invention may be obtained by extraction by steam distillation from the flowering tops. In particular, a lemon catnip essential oil comprises, principally, a mixture of monoterpenols, monoterpenals and terpenes. In particular, monoterpenols are nerol, especially at 15 to 30%, geraniol, especially at 15 to 30%, and citronellol, especially at 10 to 17%. The monoterpénals are geranial, in particular at the rate of 4 to 9%, of the neral, in particular at the rate of 2 to 7%, and of the citronellal, in particular at the rate of 0,5 to 2%. The terpenes are especially β-pinene, in particular less than 2.5%. The contents indicated above are given relative to the total weight of the essential oil in question. According to a preferred embodiment, an essential oil of Lemongrass can be an essential oil of lemongrass Sri Lanka type. An essential oil of Lemongrass Sri Lanka type (Cymbopogon nardus L.) suitable for the invention can be obtained by extraction by steam distillation from the plant. In particular, a Sri Lankan essential oil of Lemongrass mainly comprises a mixture of monoterpene aldehydes, monoterpene alcohols, monoterpenes, esters, and sesquiterpenes. In particular, the monoterpene aldehydes are citronellal, especially at 5-10%, the neral, especially at 3-6%, the geranial, especially at 5-7%, and the decanal at a lower level. at 1%. The monoterpene alcohols are geraniol, in particular at 40-55%, citronellol, especially at 4-10%, linalool, especially at 0.5-2%, terpineol, and borneol, all two in a content of less than 1%. The monoterpenes are limonene, especially at 1-4%, pinene, camphene, myrcene, ocimenes, and terpinolene in traces. The esters are geranyl acetate in particular at 0.5-2% 2-10%, and citronellyl acetate, in particular at 0.5-2% 1-3%. The sesquiterpenes are, in particular, 3-caryophyllene, in particular at a rate of 0.5-2% 1-4%. The contents indicated above are given in percentage by weight relative to the total weight of the essential oil in question.

An essential oil of clove (Eugenia caryophyllus or E. aromatica Syzygium aromaticum) suitable for the invention may be obtained by extraction by steam distillation from the nail (flower bud). In particular, an essential oil of clove mainly comprises a mixture of phenol, sesquiterpenes and esters. In particular phenol is eugenol, especially at 75-87%. The sesquiterpenes are f3-caryophyllene, especially at 2-8%, and a-humulene, especially at less than 2%. The esters are eugenyl acetate, in particular at 8-15%. The contents indicated above are given relative to the total weight of the essential oil in question.

An essential oil of Lemongrass (Cymbopogon flexuosus or Cymbopogon citratus) suitable for the invention may be obtained by extraction by steam distillation of the leaves, preferably harvested from November to May. In particular, a Lemongrass essential oil (Cymbopogonflexuosus) comprises, principally, a mixture of monoterpenes, monoterpenols of sesquiterpenes, terpene aldehydes, esters, ketones, and traces of eugenol. In particular, the monoterpenes are limonene, especially at a rate of up to 3.5%, myrcene, especially at a rate of up to 2.5%. Monoterpenols are geraniol, especially at 1.5-8%, linalool, especially less than 1.5%, and citronellol, especially less than 1%. The sesquiterpenes are f3-caryophyllene, in particular less than 3.5%, and f3-ocimene, present in trace. The terpene aldehydes are geranial, especially at 35-50%, the mineral, especially at 25-38%, and citronellal, especially less than 2%. The esters are geranyl acetate acetate, in particular at 0.5-6%. The ketones are methyl-heptenone, in particular less than 2%.

The contents indicated above are given relative to the total weight of the essential oil in question.

An essential oil of Melissa (Melissa officinalis L.) suitable for the invention can be obtained by extraction of the aerial parts by steam distillation. The aerial parts are preferentially harvested from June to September. In particular, an essential oil of Melissa mainly comprises a mixture of aldehydes, sesquiterpenes, monoterpenes, terpene esters, alcohols, and non-volatile compounds. In particular, the aldehydes are citral, namely a mixture of neral, especially at 4-26%, geranial, especially at 6-35%, and citronellal, in particular at the rate of 0.5-8. %. The sesquiterpenes are β-caryophyllene, especially at 6-35%, germacrene D, especially at 3-25%, α-copaene, and α-humulene. Monoterpenes are a-pinene and limonene. The terpene esters are geranyl acetate, in particular at a rate of 0.5-7%. The alcohols are geraniol (traces of 6%), linalool, citronellol, and nerol in a content of less than 1%. The contents indicated above are given relative to the total weight of the essential oil in question.

A green oregano essential oil (Origanum Heracleoticum) suitable for the invention can be obtained by extracting the flowers by complete distillation by steam stripping. In particular, a green oregano essential oil comprises, principally, a mixture of phenols, monoterpenes, sesquiterpenes, and terpene alcohols. In particular, the phenols are carvacrol, especially at 45-65%, and thymol, especially at 0-10%. The monoterpenes are 6-25% para-cymene, 7-18% gamma-terpinene, 0.1-3% alpha-terpinene, 1-4 myrcene. %, alpha-pinene at 0.3-2%, alpha thuyene at 0.5-3%. The sesquiterpenes are f3-caryophyllene, especially at 0-4%. The terpene alcohols are linalool, especially at 0-2%, and terpinene-4-ol, especially at 0-2%. The contents indicated above are given relative to the total weight of the essential oil in question.

An essential oil of Rosemary (Rosmarinum Officinalis Chemotype Cineole or Rosmarinum Officinalis `pyramidalis') suitable for the invention can be obtained by extraction by steam distillation from the leaves. A North African-type essential oil of Rosemary mainly comprises a mixture of terpene oxides, monoterpenones, monoterpenes, monoterpenols, sesquiterpenes, terpenic esters, as well as traces of verbenone, terpinolene, γ-terpinene , linalool, and para-cymene. The terpene oxides are 1-8-cineole, especially at 35-48%, α-terpineol, especially at 1-3%. Monoterpenes are camphor, especially at 5-16%. The monoterpenes are α-pinene, especially at 9-17%, f3-pinene, especially at 4-13%, camphene, especially at 3-6%, and myrcene, particularly because of 1-3%, and d-limonene, especially at 1-3%. Monoterpenols are borneol, especially at 1-5%. The sesquiterpenes are f3-caryophyllene, especially 1-6%. The terpene esters are bornyl acetate, in particular at a rate of 0.1-1%.

The contents indicated above are given relative to the total weight of the essential oil in question. It is also possible to use another essential oil of rosemary Cineole Provence type includes, mainly, a mixture of terpene oxides, monoterpenones, monoterpenes, monoterpenols, and sesquiterpenes. The terpene oxides are cineole, especially at 17-28%. Monoterpénones are camphor, especially at 4-13%, and verbenone, especially at 1-3%. The monoterpenes are α-pinene, especially at a rate of 15-37%, camphene, especially at 5-9%, f3-pinene, especially at 2-7%, limonene, especially because of 2-6%, myrcene, especially less than 5%, a-phyllandrene, and γ-terpinene, especially less than 3%. The sesquiterpenes are caryophyllene, especially at 1-5%. Monoterpenols are borneol, especially at 1-6%, and a-humulene, especially less than 5%. The contents indicated above are given relative to the total weight of the essential oil in question.

According to a preferred embodiment, the essential oil of rosemary according to the invention can be a rosemary essential oil North Carolina cineole type. An essential oil of savory mountains (Satureja montana L. or Satureja montana L. ssp montana) suitable for the invention can be obtained by extraction of the plant and flowers by steam distillation. A mountain savory essential oil comprises, principally, a mixture of phenols, monoterpenes, sesquiterpenes, terpene oxides, monoterpenols. In particular, the phenols are carvacrol, especially at 22-30%, thymol, especially at 12-20%. The monoterpenes are para-cymene, in particular at the rate of 10-18%, γ-terpinene, in particular at the rate of 8-18%, α-pinene, in particular at the rate of 0.5-2%, the f3 -pinene, especially at 0.1-1%, myrcene, especially at 0.3-3%, α-terpinene, especially at 0.3-3%, and limonene, especially at a rate of 0.2-2%. The sesquiterpenes are f3-caryophyllene, especially at 2-4%, f3-bisabolene, especially at 0.5-2%. The terpene oxides are 1,8-cineole, in particular less than 1%. Monoterpenols are terpineol-4. According to yet another embodiment, the essential oil of thyme according to the invention may be an essential oil Thymol thymol thymol. An essential oil of Thyme (Thymus vulgaris L.) suitable for the invention can be obtained by steam distillation of the flowering plant. An essential oil of thyme may comprise, principally, a mixture of phenols, monoterpenes and sesquiterpenes. Phenols are mainly thymol at 30 to 45% and carvacrol at 1.5 to 4%. The monoterpenes are mainly p-cymene at a rate of 15 to 35% and gamma-terpinene at 8 to 20%. Sesquiterpenes are mainly represented by beta-caryophyllene at a rate of 2.5 to 5%. The contents indicated above are given relative to the total weight of the essential oil in question.

According to one embodiment, the essential oils of Lemongrass and Rosemary in a mixture of essential oils of the invention are the majority compared to other essential oils used. According to another embodiment, the sum of the contents of essential oils of Lemongrass and Rosemary in a mixture of essential oils of the invention may vary from 70% to 92%, or even 80 to 90%, or even 84% to 88% by weight relative to the total weight of the mixture. According to another embodiment, the sum of the contents of essential oils of lemon grass, lemongrass, clove, lemon balm, green oregano, mountain savory or savory, and Thyme in a mixture essential oils of the invention may vary from 8 to 30%, or even 10 to 20%, or even 12 to 16% by weight relative to the total weight of the mixture.

According to one embodiment, an essential oil of Lemongrass may be present, in a mixture of essential oils of the invention, in a content ranging from 40 to 80%, or even 50 to 75%, or even 60 to 70% or from 65 to 70% by weight relative to the total weight of the mixture.

According to one embodiment, an essential oil of rosemary may be present in a mixture of essential oils of the invention in a content ranging from 10 to 40%, or even 15 to 30%, or even 15 to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the mixture. According to one embodiment, the essential oils of lemon grass, Lemongrass, Clove, Lemon Balm, Green Oregano, Savory Mountain or Savory Savory, and Thyme may be present in a mixture of essential oils according to the invention, each in a content ranging from 0.5 to 5%, or even 1 to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the mixture. It goes without saying that for a mixture of essential oils of the invention, the percentage by weight of each of the oils is adjusted so that the total sum of the percentages by weight of the essential oils present in a mixture of essential oils of the According to one embodiment, a mixture of the invention may comprise from 0.5 to 5%, by weight of lemon catnip essential oil, of 0.5 to 5%, by weight of Lemongrass essential oil, 0.5 to 5% by weight of clove essential oil, 40 to 80% by weight of Lemongrass essential oil, 0.5 to 5%, by weight of lemon oil Lemon balm essential oil, 0.5 to 5% by weight of green oregano essential oil, 10 to 40% by weight of Rosemary essential oil, 0.5 to 5%, by weight of essential oil of Savory Mountains or savory perennial, and 0.5 to 5% by weight of essential oil of Thyme relative to the total weight of the mixture.

According to one embodiment, a mixture of the invention consists of 2% by weight of lemon catnip essential oil, 2% by weight of lemongrass essential oil, 2% by weight of clove essential oil, 66% by weight of Lemongrass essential oil, 1% by weight of Lemon balm essential oil, 2% by weight of green oregano essential oil, 20% by weight of Rosemary essential oil, 3% by weight weight of essential oil of Savory Mountains or savory perennial, and 2% by weight of essential oil of Thyme, relative to the total weight of the mixture. A mixture of essential oils of the invention is naturally formulated in an amount effective to achieve the desired skin effect. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "effective amount" of a mixture of essential oils of the invention, a sufficient and necessary amount of this mixture to exert a prevention effect and / or treatment with respect to one of the skin indications indicated below. Such an amount can be determined by any method known to those skilled in the art, for example by means of in vitro, ex vivo or in vivo tests, such as clinical trials.

According to one embodiment, a mixture of essential oils of the invention may be present in a composition in a content ranging from 0.001% to 5% relative to the total weight of said composition, preferably from 0.001 to 1%, of more preferably from 0.001 to 0.5%, and more preferably from 0.05 to 0.5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

The essential oils of the invention are commercially available and can be obtained, for example, from the company ELIXENS. Indications A mixture of essential oils of the invention, and especially as defined above, may advantageously be used in cosmetics as an desquamating agent, and in particular to prevent, reduce, treat or relieve aesthetic defects in the skin. skin associated or consecutive to a defect of desquamation. Thus, according to the invention, the use of such a mixture as a desquamating agent on the skin of an individual in need makes it possible to exert beneficial effects with regard to the complexion of the skin, of the surface, and in particular microrelief, skin, dry skin, desquamative states of the scalp, and in particular dandruff states. Advantageously, a desquamating agent according to the invention may be used to prevent and / or treat a manifestation of skin damage in relation to one of the above indications, and consecutive or associated with a defect, a deregulation or disorder of desquamation. For the purposes of the present invention, the term prevent means reducing a risk of manifestation or reducing a probability of occurrence of the phenomenon concerned. Depending on the degree of intensity of the manifestation of the deterioration of the skin in relation to one of the above indications, this may be due to an aesthetic defect or a pathological disorder of the skin. Such classification is within the skill of those skilled in the art. A cosmetic implementation of the invention is therefore only for aesthetic defects of the skin, and therefore has no therapeutic effect.

The invention is directed to all of the skin of the body, including the scalp, the feet, the hands, and preferably, the skin of the face, the neckline, the neck, the arms and forearms, or the leather hairy, even more preferably still, the skin of the face, décolleté and neck, or the scalp.

The present invention relates to a cosmetic non-therapeutic skin care application of a mixture of essential oils of the invention. By "care" is meant a non-therapeutic care that can produce an aesthetic effect without preventing or correcting a pathological dysfunction of the skin.

Complexion of the skin The radiance of the complexion reflects the state of good health of the skin, in particular young skin. Many external or internal factors, such as exposure to the sun, exposure to temperature and humidity changes, or exposure to pollutants, external factors, or stress, fatigue, hormonal changes, dehydration of the epidermis or an alteration of the skin's barrier function, or even aging, for internal factors, may affect the desquamation of the skin and cause skin imperfections and / or cause a blotchy complexion or inhomogeneous. These extrinsic and intrinsic factors tend to blur the complexion, make it inhomogeneous, dull or waxy. These alterations of the complexion, often of multifactorial origin, are a cause more and more frequent of consultations near centers of esthetic care or dermatological practices. A mixture of essential oils of the invention advantageously makes it possible to prevent and / or treat an alteration of the radiance of the complexion of the skin, in particular following a defect of desquamation.

In particular, a mixture of essential oils of the invention makes it possible to prevent and / or treat a loss of the radiance of the complexion of the skin, to give a complexion to the luminous skin, or to prevent and / or treat a complexion. scrambled, dull and / or inhomogeneous skin. According to another embodiment, a use of the invention advantageously makes it possible to prevent and / or treat imperfections of the skin, in particular chosen from scabs, dyschromias, senescence spots and / or melasma. Skin surface The surface of human skin is not smooth. It presents a relief resulting in fine lines, distinct from the wrinkles, observable with a magnifying glass in the child and the naked eye in the old man. These fine lines or furrows intersect so as to form structures of polygonal shapes, namely the microrelief of the skin. The number and depth of the grooves constituting the microrelief of the skin can be affected by many external or internal factors. Extrinsic factors include exposure to the sun, exposure to changes in temperature and humidity, or exposure to pollutants. Intrinsic factors affecting skin microrelief include stress, fatigue, hormonal changes, dehydration of the epidermis or impaired skin barrier function, or even aging. These extrinsic and intrinsic factors tend to increase the number and depth of the microrelief grooves, which become more pronounced and visible to the naked eye, and may reflect a defect in desquamation. Advantageously, a mixture of essential oils of the invention may be used to prevent and / or treat an alteration of the surface condition of the skin, in particular following a defect in desquamation.

More particularly, a mixture of essential oils of the invention can be used to prevent and / or treat an alteration of the microrelief of the skin, to reduce the number of grooves of the microrelief of the skin, to smooth the surface of the skin to prevent and / or treat a surface irregularity of the skin, in particular for preventing and / or treating a state of roughness of the skin, or for reducing the depth of the grooves of the microrelief of the skin.

According to another embodiment, a mixture of essential oils of the invention can be used to promote renewal of the epidermis, to promote cleaning and / or elimination of dead skin cells, to prevent and / or treat a thickening of the epidermis, in particular callus formation. Even more preferably, the skin of the body whose surface, and in particular the microrelief, is to be treated by means of a desquamating agent of the invention may be the skin of the face, feet, and hands. According to another embodiment, a mixture of essential oils of the invention may also be used to prevent and / or treat hyperkeratosis.

Dry skin One of the functions of the Stratum Corneum is to capture and retain the water contained in the epidermis, and any alteration of its structure and / or function, especially after or associated with a lack of desquamation of the skin, may occur. translate by changes in skin hydration. Hydration is provided to the skin by deep-layer water and sweat. An imbalance in the hydration of the skin can have profound consequences, both physiological and cosmetic. Skin hydration disorders, including skin dryness, are often associated with aging of the skin, or are observed as a result of climate change, or the exposure of certain chemical or therapeutic agents. Physiologically, dry skin is often associated with a decrease in the level of skin hydration and a change in the process of maturation of Stratum Corneum with the most visible sign of the appearance of dander on the skin surface. On the sensory level, dry skin can be characterized by a feeling of tightness and / or cutaneous tension. When the skin is slightly dry, these scales are abundant but not very visible to the naked eye, the corneocyte elimination corneocyte. They are fewer and fewer but more and more visible to the naked eye when this defect worsens, the clusters can include several hundred corneocytes, thus representing more or less large clusters, called dander. A mixture of essential oils of the invention may be particularly suitable for preventing and / or treating dry skin and / or cutaneous signs associated with dry skin, particularly related to a defect in desquamation. Cutaneous dryness can be constitutional or acquired.

In the case of non-pathological constitutional dry skin, the severity of the drought condition may depend on external factors. Included in this skin category are senile skin (characterized by a general decrease in cutaneous metabolism with age), fragile skin (very sensitive to external factors and often accompanied by erythema and rosacea) and vulvar xerosis (d probable genetic origin and manifesting itself primarily on the face, limbs and back of the hands). The constitutional dry pathological skins are essentially represented by atopic dermatitis and ichthyoses. In the case of acquired dry skin, the intervention of external parameters such as exposure to chemical agents, difficult climatic conditions, solar rays or even certain therapeutic treatments (retinoids, for example) is crucial. Under these external influences, the epidermis can then become momentarily and locally dry. This can affect any type of epidermis.

Regardless of the origin, a skin with dryness of the skin may present, generally, the following signs: roughness to the touch and scaly, as well as reduced flexibility and elasticity. Dry skin, also called "xerosis", can appear at any age, and not be linked to a pathological condition. We will speak in this case of "acquired" drought. However, xerosis becomes more common and troublesome with age, especially in women. This is called senile xerosis. In addition, women usually experience a worsening of skin dryness during menopause, probably due to the hormonal imbalance characteristic of this phenomenon. The most affected areas are the lower legs, the dorsal forearm and the hands. The appearance of dry skin can also be promoted by external factors, such as cold, dry, and winter weather. We are talking about winter xerosis. Skin dryness can also be induced by exogenous stress, of chemical origin, for example of the anionic detergent type, or else of mechanical origin (friction, shaving). According to one embodiment, a cosmetic use of the invention may advantageously be suitable for preventing and / or treating senile or fragile dry skin, or xerosis, in particular chosen from xerosis vulgaris, senile xerosis, and winter xerosis. According to one embodiment, a cosmetic use of the invention may advantageously be suitable for preventing and / or treating the feelings of tightness associated with dry skin. By way of example of the signs of cutaneous dryness considered in the invention, mention may be made of rough touch, the presence of crevices, desquamation or the presence of scales. Oily scalp A mixture of essential oils of the invention may be mentioned. , in particular, be suitable for preventing and / or treating a fatty scalp and / or an associated cutaneous aesthetic disorder, and subsequent to lack of desquamation.

An aesthetic defect or a disorder of the scalp can appear, according to its degree of gravity, in the form of an irritation or a seborrheic dermatitis, accompanied if necessary by an irritation and / or itching of the scalp.

Dandruff condition of the scalp A scalp with excessive dryness or excessive secretion of sebum may manifest a defect of desquamation resulting in a dandruff condition, which, depending on the case, will be characterized by the presence of dry or oily dandruff.

The dry dandruff states translate xerosis of the scalp, if necessary associated with an excessively fast renewal of its Stratum Corneum. Dry dandruff is usually small in size, white or gray, and spreads over the scalp and clothing that creates an unsightly visual effect. Itching associated with dryness of the scalp can lead to erythema, pruritus, or even an inflammatory condition. Fatty skin states can be one of the forms of seborrheic dermatitis. Depending on the intensity of the manifestation of a fatty dandruff condition, subjects with this condition may have an erythematous scalp covered by large, oily and yellow scales that accumulate to form packets. They may also present an itchy scalp, and often have burning sensations on affected areas. According to one embodiment, a mixture of essential oils may advantageously be suitable for preventing and / or treating a dandruff condition of the scalp and / or improving the condition of the scalp.

Compositions A mixture of essential oils of the invention is advantageously formulated in a composition which may be in any galenical form normally available for the indication and the method of administration chosen. A composition according to the invention comprises a physiologically, cosmetically or pharmaceutically acceptable medium. A composition of the invention may be, as the case may be, a cosmetic composition or a dermatological composition. A mixture of essential oils of the invention or a composition containing it are administered topically. A composition topically the invention may advantageously be formulated in any dosage form suitable for care or makeup of the skin and mucous membranes and may be in the form of sticks, ointments, creams, milks, oils (single, two or more phases), ointments, powders, soaked swabs, solutions, gels, sprays, lotions, or suspensions. They may also be in the form of microspheres or nanospheres or lipid or polymeric vesicles or polymeric patches and hydrogels allowing controlled release. A composition intended for topical administration may be an aqueous, hydroalcoholic or oily solution, a solution or a dispersion of the lotion or serum type, a liquid or semi-liquid consistency emulsion of the milk type, obtained by dispersion of a phase in a water phase (O / W) or vice versa (W / O), a suspension or an emulsion, of soft, semi-solid or solid consistency, of the cream type or of the aqueous or anhydrous gel type, a multiple emulsion (E / H / E or H / E / H), a microemulsion, a nanoemulsion, a microcapsule preparation, a microparticle preparation, or an ionic and / or nonionic type vesicular dispersion, or a wax / aqueous phase dispersion . According to one embodiment, a topical composition may be in the form of a solution, a cream, a gel, an emulsion, an oil, a mousse or a aerosol composition containing a propellant.

According to one embodiment, a composition of the invention may also be in the form of a transdermal system allowing active or passive release of the active (s) by transdermia, for example patch or gel patch (hydrogel These compositions are prepared according to the usual methods. A composition according to the invention may constitute a composition for treating or caring for the skin or scalp, or a sunscreen or artificial tanning composition, or a product for cleaning or removing the skin, a deodorant product or even a perfuming compound. Such a composition may then be unstained or weakly colored, and may optionally contain additional cosmetic or dermatological active agents, in particular as indicated below. It can then be used as a skin or lip care base, for example in the form of a lip balm, protecting the lips from cold and / or sun and / or wind, as a day care cream. or at night for the skin of the face and / or the body, such as a cream or oil for the hands and feet. It may also be in the form of shampoo treatment or not, dye or not, or conditioner. According to a preferred embodiment, the composition may be used in the form of a facial cream.

A composition of the invention may comprise any formulating agent commonly used in the art. By way of examples of formulation agents that are suitable for the invention, mention may be made of gelling agents, in particular hydrophilic and lipophilic gelling agents, surfactants, fillers, dyestuffs, film-forming polymers and fats volatile or non-volatile oils, pasty or solid fatty substances, such as waxes or gums, in particular waxes as described below, solvents such as ethanol, polyalkylene glycols, propylene glycol, a thermal and / or mineral water, oils of mineral, animal and / or vegetable origin, in particular as detailed below, pigments, thickeners, preservatives, and mixtures thereof. A composition of the invention may furthermore contain various adjuvants commonly used in the cosmetics field, such as sequestering agents, odor absorbers, UV filters, perfumes, mattifying agents, and abrasive fillers or exfoliating agents, and their mixtures.

Of course, those skilled in the art will take care to choose this or these optional additional agents or compounds, and / or their quantity, in such a way that the advantageous properties of the essential oil mixture of the invention are not, or not substantially , altered by the addition envisaged and that the properties of the resulting compositions are compatible with the preferred route of administration.

A composition according to the invention may comprise an oily phase, comprising in particular fatty substances. A composition used according to the invention may advantageously comprise at least one liquid fatty substance.

By "liquid fatty substance" is meant a compound having a melting point of less than about 30-35 ° C, as opposed to solid fatty substances, such as waxes, which have a melting point greater than about 50 ° C. Unless otherwise stated, the term "fatty" compound, for example a fatty acid, means a compound comprising in its main chain at least one saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon-based chain, such as alkyl or alkenyl having at least 8 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, and more preferably from 10 to 22 carbon atoms.

Preferably, the liquid fatty substances that can be used in the invention are chosen from liquid hydrocarbons, liquid fatty alcohols, liquid fatty esters and silicone oils. By liquid hydrocarbon is meant a hydrocarbon composed solely of carbon atoms and liquid hydrogen at ordinary temperature (25 ° C) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg). More particularly, the liquid hydrocarbons are chosen from: linear or branched C6-C16 alkanes, which may be cyclic. By way of example, mention may be made of hexane, undecane, dodecane, tridecane, isoparaffins such as isohexadecane, isododecane and isodecane, and linear or branched hydrocarbons of animal mineral origin. or synthetic of more than 16 carbon atoms, such as paraffin oils and their derivatives, petrolatum, liquid petrolatum, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam®, squalane, squalane is very particularly preferred. Can advantageously be used squalane sold by CRODA under the name PRIPURETM 3759. By liquid fatty alcohol is meant a non-glycerolated fatty alcohol and not oxyalkylenated and liquid at room temperature (25 ° C) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg). Preferably, the liquid fatty alcohols of the invention contain from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. The liquid fatty alcohols of the invention can be saturated or unsaturated.

Saturated liquid fatty alcohols are preferably branched. They may optionally comprise in their structure at least one aromatic cycle or not. They are preferably acyclic. More particularly, the liquid saturated fatty alcohols of the invention are chosen from octyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol and 2-hexyldecanol.

Octyldodecanol is particularly preferred. It may especially be octyldodecanol sold by the company COGNIS (BASF) under the name EUTANOL® G or that sold by the company SASOL, under the name ISOFOL® 20.

These liquid unsaturated fatty alcohols have in their structure at least one double bond or one triple bond. Preferably, the fatty alcohols of the invention have in their structure one or more double bonds. When several double bonds are present, they are preferably 2 or 3 and may or may not be conjugated. These unsaturated fatty alcohols can be linear or branched. They may optionally comprise in their structure at least one aromatic cycle or not. They are preferably acyclic. More particularly, the liquid unsaturated fatty alcohols of the invention are chosen from oleic (or oleyl) alcohol, linoleic (or linoleyl) alcohol, linolenic (or linolenyl) alcohol and undecylenic alcohol. Oleyl alcohol is particularly preferred. Liquid fatty esters are understood to mean a non-oxyalkylenated ester derived from a fatty acid and / or a fatty alcohol and liquid at room temperature (25 ° C.) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg). The esters are preferably the liquid esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C 1 -C 26 aliphatic mono- or polyacids and linear or branched C 1 -C 26 saturated or unsaturated aliphatic or monohydric alcohols or alcohols, the total number of carbon atoms. the esters being greater than or equal to 10. Preferably, for the monoalcohol esters, at least one of the alcohol or the acid from which the esters of the invention are derived is branched. Among monoesters of monoacids and monoalcohols, mention may be made of ethyl and isopropyl palmitates and of alkyl myristates such as isopropyl myristate, ethyl, isocetyl stearate and ethyl hexyl isononanoate. isodecyl neopentanoate, isostearyl neopentanoate. It is also possible to use esters of C 4 -C 22 di or tricarboxylic acids and of C 1 -C 22 alcohols and esters of monocarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and of non-sugar alcohols di, tri, tetra or pentahydroxy in C 4 -C 4. C26. These include: diethyl sebacate; diisopropyl sebacate, di (2-ethylhexyl) sebacate; diisopropyl adipate; di-propyl adipate; dioctyl adipate; di (2-ethylhexyl) adipate; diisostearyl adipate; di (2-ethylhexyl) maleate; triisopropyl citrate; triisocetyl citrate trisostearyl citrate trilactate glyceryl; glyceryl trioctanoate; trioctyldodecyl citrate; trioleyl citrate; neopentyl glycol diheptanoate; Diethylene glycol diisononate.

The composition may also comprise, as liquid fatty ester, esters and diesters of C 6 -C 30, preferably C 12 -C 22, fatty acid sugars. It is recalled that "sugar" is understood to mean oxygenated hydrocarbon compounds which have several alcohol functions, with or without an aldehyde or ketone function, and which contain at least 4 carbon atoms. These sugars can be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides or polysaccharides. Suitable sugars include, for example, sucrose (or sucrose), glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose, lactose, and their derivatives. especially alkyls, such as methyl derivatives such as methylglucose. The esters of sugars and fatty acids may be chosen in particular from the group comprising the esters or mixtures of esters of sugars described above and of C 6 -C 30, preferably C 12 -C 22 fatty acids, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated. If unsaturated, these compounds may comprise one to three carbon-carbon double bonds, conjugated or unconjugated. The esters according to this variant may also be chosen from mono-, di-, tri- and tetraesters, polyesters and mixtures thereof. These esters may be, for example, oleates, laurates, palmitates, myristates, behenates, cocoates, stearates, linoleates, linolenates, caprates, arachidonates, or mixtures thereof, such as, in particular, oleo-palmitate, oleo-stearate and palmitostearate mixed esters. More particularly, mono- and di-esters are used, and especially mono- or dioleates, stearates, behenates, oleopalmitates, linoleates, linolenates, oleostearates, sucrose, glucose or methylglucose. By way of example, mention may be made of the product sold under the name Glucate® DO by the company Amerchol, which is a methylglucose dioleate. Finally, it is also possible to use natural or synthetic esters of mono, di or triacids with glycerol. Among these are vegetable oils. As oils of vegetable origin or synthetic triglycerides which can be used in the composition of the invention as liquid fatty esters, mention may be made, for example, of: triglyceride oils of plant or synthetic origin, such as liquid triglycerides, fatty acids having 6 to 30 carbon atoms such as triglycerides of heptanoic or octanoic acids or, for example, sunflower oil, corn, soybean, squash, grape seed, sesame, hazelnut, d apricot, macadamia, arara, castor, avocado, or triglycerides of caprylic / capric acids such as those sold by the company Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol® 810, 812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel or those sold by the company COGNIS (BASF) under the name MYRITOL® 318, jojoba oil, shea butter oil. Jojoba oil and / or triglycerides of caprylic / capric acids are preferably used as esters according to the invention. It may also be preferably a sunflower oil, such as for example the oil sold under the name Refined Sunflower Oil by the company WELCH HOLME & CLARK. It may in particular be the oil sold by the company Earth Oil under the name SIMMONDSIA CHINENSIS OIL®. It may also advantageously be caprylic / capric acid triglycerides sold by the company COGNIS (BASF) under the name MYRITOL® 318. By liquid silicone is meant a liquid organopolysiloxane at room temperature (25 ° C.). and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg). Preferably, the silicone is chosen from liquid polydialkylsiloxanes, in particular liquid polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS), and liquid polyorganosiloxanes comprising at least one aryl group. These silicones can also be organomodified The organomodified silicones that can be used in accordance with the invention are liquid silicones as defined above and comprising in their structure one or more organofunctional groups attached via a hydrocarbon-based group. Organopolysiloxanes are further defined in Walter Noll's "Chemistry and Technology of Silicones" (1968), Academie Press. They can be volatile or nonvolatile. When volatile, the silicones are more particularly chosen from those having a boiling point of between 60 ° C. and 260 ° C., and more particularly still from: (i) cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes containing from 3 to 7, preferably from 4 to 5 silicon atoms. It is, for example, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane sold in particular under the name VOLATILE SILICONE® 7207 by UNION CARBIDE or SILBIONE® 70045 V2 by RHODIA, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane marketed under the name VOLATILE SILICONE® 7158 by UNION CARBIDE, and SILBIONE ® 70045 V5 by RHODIA, the dodecamethylcyclopentasiloxane marketed under the name of SILSOFT 1217 by MOMENTIVE PERFORMANCE MATERIALS and their mixtures.

Mention may also be made of cyclocopolymers of the dimethylsiloxane / methylalkylsiloxane type, such as the VOLATILE® SILICONE FZ 3109 marketed by UNION CARBIDE, of formula: ## STR1 ## Cyclic polydialkylsiloxane mixtures may also be mentioned with organic compounds derived from silicon, such as mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and tetramethylsilylpentaerythritol (50/50) and the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and oxy-1,1 '- (hexa-2,2,2', 2 ', 3,31-trimethylsilyloxy) bis-neopentane ; (ii) linear volatile polydialkylsiloxanes having 2 to 9 silicon atoms and having a viscosity of less than or equal to 5 × 10 -6 m 2 / s at 25 ° C. It is, for example, decamethyltetrasiloxane marketed in particular under the name "SH 200 "by the company TORAY SILICONE. Silicones included in this class are also described in the article published in Cosmetics and Toiletries, Vol. 91, Jan. 76, p. 27-32 - TODD & BYERS "Volatile Silicone fluids for cosmetics". The viscosity of the silicones is measured at 25 ° C. according to ASTM 445 Appendix C. Non-volatile polydialkylsiloxanes can also be used.

These non-volatile silicones are more particularly chosen from polydialkylsiloxanes, among which may be mentioned mainly polydimethylsiloxanes with trimethylsilyl end groups. Among these polydialkylsiloxanes, mention may be made, without limitation, of the following commercial products: SILBIONE® oils of the 47 and 70 047 series or the MIRASIL® oils marketed by RHODIA, such as, for example, the 70 047 V 500 000 oil; the oils of the MIRASIL® series marketed by RHODIA; the oils of the 200 series of Dow Corning, such as DC200 having a viscosity of 60,000 mm 2 / s; - VISCASIL® oils from GENERAL ELECTRIC and some oils from SF series (SF 96, SF 18) from GENERAL ELECTRIC. Mention may also be made of polydimethylsiloxanes with dimethylsilanol end groups known under the name of dimethiconol (CTFA), such as the oils of the 48 series from the company RHODIA.

Among the silicones with aryl groups include polydiarylsiloxanes, especially polydiphenylsiloxanes, and polyalkylarylsiloxanes. By way of example, mention may be made of the products sold under the following names: - SILBIONE® oils of the 70 641 series from RHODIA; - the RHODORSIL® 70 633 and 763 RHODIA series of oils; - DOW CORNING 556 COSMETIC GRAD FLUID oil from Dow Corning; the silicones of the PK series of BAYER, such as the product PK20; - some oils of the SF series of GENERAL ELECTRIC such as SF 1023, SF 1154, SF 1250, SF 1265.

Organomodified liquid silicones may in particular have polyethyleneoxy and / or polypropyleneoxy groups. The silicone KF-6017 proposed by SHIN ETSU and the oils SILWET® L 722, L 77 from UNION CARBIDE can thus be mentioned. The liquid fatty substances according to the invention are preferably chosen from liquid hydrocarbons, liquid fatty alcohols, liquid fatty esters and silicone oils. Thus, the liquid fatty substances according to the invention may advantageously be chosen from octyldodecanol, squalane, jojoba vegetable oil and triglycerides of caprylic / capric acids.

The compositions according to the invention may comprise a volatile oil, different from a liquid fatty substance as defined above. For the purposes of the invention, the term "volatile oil" means an oil capable of evaporating on contact with keratin materials in less than one hour at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure. The volatile organic solvent (s) and the volatile oils of the invention are organic solvents and volatile cosmetic oils which are liquid at ambient temperature and have a non-zero vapor pressure at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure, in particular ranging from 0 to 13 Pa at 40,000 Pa (10-3 to 300 mm Hg), in particular ranging from 1.3 Pa to 13 000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mm Hg), and more particularly ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mmHg). Volatile oils which may be mentioned include, among others, cyclic or linear silicones containing from 2 to 6 silicon atoms, such as cyclohexasiloxane, dodecamethylpentasiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane, butyltrisiloxane and ethyltrisiloxane. It is also possible to use branched hydrocarbons such as, for example, isododecane as well as volatile perfluoroalkanes such as dodecafluoropentane and tetradecafluorohexane, sold under the names "PF 5050e" and "PF 5060e" by the company 3M and perfluoromorpholine derivatives , such as 4-trifluoromethyl perfluoromorpholine sold under the name "PF 5052®" by the company 3M.

A composition according to the invention may further comprise waxes. As waxes that can be used according to the invention, mention may be made of waxes of animal origin such as beeswax, spermaceti, lanolin wax and lanolin derivatives, vegetable waxes such as wax of Carnauba, Candellila, Ouricury, Japan, cocoa butter or cork fiber or sugarcane waxes, mineral waxes, eg paraffin, petrolatum, lignite or microcrystalline waxes or ozokerites synthetic waxes, among which are polyethylene waxes, polytetrafluoroethylene waxes and waxes obtained by Fisher-Tropsch synthesis, or silicone waxes, hydrogenated oils that are solid at 25 ° C., such as hydrogenated castor oil, and oil. hydrogenated jojoba, hydrogenated palm oil, hydrogenated tallow, hydrogenated coconut oil and concrete fatty esters at 25 ° C such as C20-C40 alkyl stearate sold under the trade name KESTE R WAX K82H "by KOSTER KEUNEN. An oily phase present in the compositions according to the invention may be present in a proportion of, for example, 0.01 to 50% by weight, and preferably from 0.1 to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. . A composition of the invention in emulsion form may comprise at least one emulsifier chosen from amphoteric, anionic, cationic or nonionic emulsifiers, used alone or as a mixture. Advantageously, the emulsifiers are appropriately chosen according to the emulsion to be obtained (W / O or O / W). The emulsifiers are generally present in the composition in a proportion ranging from 0.3 to 30% by weight, and preferably from 0.5 to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

For the O / W emulsions, mention may be made, for example, as emulsifiers, of nonionic surfactants, and in particular saturated or unsaturated chain fatty acid and polyol esters containing, for example, from 8 to 24 carbon atoms and preferably from 12 to 24 carbon atoms. at 22 carbon atoms, and their oxyalkylenated derivatives, that is to say containing oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylene units, such as esters of glyceryl and of C 8 -C 24 fatty acid, and their oxyalkylenated derivatives; esters of polyethylene glycol and of C8-C24 fatty acid, and their oxyalkylenated derivatives; esters of sorbitol and of C8-C24 fatty acid, and their oxyalkylenated derivatives; esters of sugar (sucrose, glucose, alkylglucose) and C8-C24 fatty acid, and their oxyalkylenated derivatives; fatty alcohol ethers; sugar ethers and C8-C24 fatty alcohols, and mixtures thereof. A composition of the invention may further comprise at least one dyestuff chosen for example from pigments, nacres, dyes, effect materials and mixtures thereof. These dyestuffs may be present in a content ranging from 0.01% to 50% by weight, preferably from 0.01% to 30% relative to the total weight of the composition. A composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one filler, especially in a content ranging from 0.01% to 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 0.01% to 30%. in weight. These fillers can be mineral or organic of all shapes, platelet, spherical or oblong, whatever the crystallographic form (for example sheet, cubic, hexagonal, orthorhombic, or amorphous). Mention may be made of silica, talc, mica, kaolin, lauroyl-lysine, starch, boron nitride, PTFE powders, PMMA powders, methyl silsesquioxane resin powders (such as Tospearl 145A of GE Silicone), hollow hemispherical silicone resin particles (such as Takemoto Oil and Fat's NLK 500, NLK 506 and NLK 510), barium sulfate, precipitated calcium carbonate, carbonate and hydrochloride. magnesium carbonate, hydroxyapatite, glass or ceramic microcapsules, metal soaps derived from organic carboxylic acids having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 18 carbon atoms, for example zinc stearate; , magnesium or lithium, zinc laurate, magnesium myristate. A composition according to the invention may be manufactured by any known method generally used in the cosmetic or dermatological fields. The ingredients are mixed, before they are shaped, in the order and under conditions easily determined by those skilled in the art.

The content and the nature of the ingredients used in the compositions of the invention are adjusted by those skilled in the art so as not to substantially affect the properties required for the compositions of the invention. As previously mentioned, the invention relates to a cosmetic for regulating or promoting desquamation of a skin comprising at least one step of administering, to an individual in need thereof, at least one essential oil mixture of the invention.

A method according to the invention may further comprise a step of observing a reduction or even a disappearance of a manifestation of a skin defect in relation to the complexion of the skin, the surface of the skin, and especially the microrelief of the skin, dry skin, or dandruff condition of the scalp. A process according to the invention is carried out topically.

A method of the invention may be carried out, topically, in particular by application to the skin, or its annexes, of at least one layer of a cosmetic or dermatological composition comprising, as active ingredient, at least one mixture of essential oils of the invention, and more particularly of a cosmetic composition as defined above. The application may, in particular, be performed on the skin of the face, décolleté, hands and feet, on the scalp, on the lips, on the hair, eyelashes or nails, for example in the form of a mask. A cosmetic process of the invention may be carried out daily for example, for example for example a single administration per day or administration twice a day, for example once in the morning and once in the evening .

A cosmetic process of the invention may be carried out over a period of time varying from one week to several weeks, or even several months, this period being able to be repeated after periods of non-treatment, for several months or even years. . By way of example, a compound of the invention may be administered, for example, 2 to 3 times daily, or more, and generally over an extended period of at least 4 weeks, or even 4 to 15 weeks, with the if necessary one or more periods of interruption. A method of the invention may advantageously comprise the administration of a composition of the invention in combination, simultaneously, sequentially or separately in time, with the administration of an additional cosmetic or dermatological composition, distinct from the composition of the invention, and intended for the care of the scalp. Any additional cosmetic or dermatological composition may be suitable for the invention, provided of course that its association with a composition of the invention does not affect the properties sought for the latter. The person skilled in the art knows how to appreciate on the basis of his knowledge the additional cosmetic or dermatological compositions that may be suitable. In the following description and examples, unless otherwise indicated, percentages are percentages by weight and ranges of values in the form "between ... and ..." include the specified lower and upper bounds. EXAMPLES Example 1 Evaluation of Stratum Corneum Cohesion A. Materials and Methods Normal human skin fragments, or explants, were obtained in plastic surgery (6 different donors). They were deposited in inserts comprising a porous membrane (8 μm), themselves positioned on culture wells containing a culture medium as described in Boisnic et al. (Journal of Cosmetics and Laser Therapy, 2010: 12: 25-31).

The protocol consisted in applying, topically to skin explants, the following treatments: no treatment (untreated control), mixture of essential oils applied to 0.1 or 0.5% in Squalane (control ). The concentrations indicated correspond to the final concentrations applied to the surface of the skin.

The mixture of essential oils (HE) tested is as follows. COMPOSITION ESSENTIAL OILS Name Concentration (%) CITRONEE CATHYL 2 (Nepata cataria ssp s citriodora) CEYLAN CITRONELLO 2 (Cymbopogon nardus) GIROFLE 2 (Eugenia caryophyllus) LEMONGRAS S 66 (Cymbopogon flexuosus) OFFICINAL MELISSE 1 (Melissae officinalis) ORIGAN GREEN 2 ( Origanum heracleoticum) CINEOUS ROSEMARY 20 (Rosmarinus officinalis) MOUNTAIN SARRIETTE 3 (Satureia montana) THYM CHEMOTYPE THYMOL 2 (Thymus vulgaris) TOTAL 100 The essential oils used are provided by the company ELIXENS. The semi-quantitative cohesion scores of the SC are determined from histological sections stained with hemalun-eosin. The morphology analysis of Stratum Corneum (SC) is performed 2 days later on a biopsy. Score 0: No change in stratum cohesion Score 1: Slight decrease in cohesion Score 2: Moderate decrease Score 3: Significant decrease Score 4: Very significant decrease B. Results The study assessed the influence of an HE mixture according to the invention, at 2 concentrations, in solution in squalane, on the Stratum Corneum (SC) cohesion of human skin explant maintained in survival.

The average scores of the cohesion of the SC after treatment with an HE mixture according to the invention at 0.1% and 0.5% are respectively 1.6 and 1.9. This increase in score, compared with Squalane (average score of 1), is statistically significant (student test p <0.05).

The results (show that the application of a mixture of essential oils according to the invention, at 0.1% and 0.5%, limits the cohesion of the Stratum Corneum of the skin explant. and the lower the cohesion of the Stratum Corneum, the mixture of essential oils of the invention thus proves to be a very effective desquamating agent.This result confirms the beneficial properties of a mixture of essential oils from the invention to the appearance of the skin, the surface condition of the skin, the dry skin and / or the associated cutaneous signs, or the desquamative state of the scalp, and in particular film condition Example 2 Composition for a face gel Chemical name Concentration (%) XANTHANE GUM 0.2 (RHODICARE® XC Rhodia) GLYCEROL 5 ORGANIC VEGETABLE ETHANOL 96 ° 15 NO DENATURE COMPOSITION OILS 05 ESSENTIAL MAIZE STARCH 2 B Rocket WATER QSP 100% COMPOSITION ESSENTIAL OILS Name Concentration (%) CATARY CI TRONEE 2 (Nepata cataria ssp s citriodora) CITRONELLA OF CEYLAN 2 (Cymbopogon nardus) GIROFLE 2 (Eugenia caryophyllus) LEMONGRAS S 66 (Cymbopogon flexuo) OFFICINAL MELISSE 1 (Melissae officinalis) ORIGAN GREEN 2 (Origanum heracleoticum) CINEOUS ROSEMARY 20 ( Rosmarinus officinalis) MOUNTAIN SARRIETTE 3 (Satureia montana) THYM CHEMOTYPE THYMOL 2 (Thymus vulgaris) TOTAL 100 Such a composition for a face gel can be prepared in the following way: the xanthan gum is hydrated with stirring. Then glycerol, alcohol and the composition of essential oils are added successively at room temperature. The essential oils used are provided by the company ELIXENS. This composition applied morning and evening makes it possible to improve the radiance of the complexion and the roughness of the skin.

Example 3 Composition for a scalp lotion Chemical name Concentration (%) COMPOSITION OILS 0 5 ESSENTIAL ETHANOL 47.6 WATER QSP 100 The composition of essential oils is identical to that described in Example 2. This lotion is applied daily to because of 6 ml on the scalp, for 1 to 2 weeks to improve the condition of the scalp.

Claims (13)

REVENDICATIONS1. Cosmetic use, topically, as a desquamating agent, of a mixture of essential oils of lemon grasscat, Lemongrass, Clove, Lemongrass, Lemon balm, Green oregano, Rosemary, Savory of the Mountains or Savory savory, and Thyme. 2. Use according to the preceding claim, for preventing and / or treating an alteration of the radiance of the complexion of the skin. 3. Use according to claim 1 for preventing and / or treating an alteration of the surface condition of the skin. 4. Use according to claim 1 for preventing and / or treating dry skin and / or cutaneous signs associated with dry skin. 5. Use according to claim 1, for preventing and / or treating a desquamative condition of the scalp. 6. Use according to the preceding claim, for preventing and / or treating a film condition. 7. Use according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the essential oil of Lemongrass is present in a content ranging from 40 to 80%, or even 50 to 75%, or even 60 to 70%, or even 65 to 70% by weight relative to the total weight of the mixture. 8. Use according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the essential oil of rosemary is present in a content ranging from 10 to 40%, or even 15 to 30%, or even 15 to 25% by weight relative to total weight of the mixture. 9. Use according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the essential oils of lemon grass, lemongrass, clove, lemon balm, green oregano, mountain savory or savory, and Thyme are each present in a content ranging from 0.5 to 5%, or even 1 to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the mixture. 10. Use according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the mixture of essential oils consists of 2% by weight of lemon catnip essential oil, 2% by weight of lemongrass essential oil, 2% by weight of Clove essential oil, 66% by weight of Lemongrass essential oil, 1% by weight of Lemon balm essential oil, 2% by weight of green Oregano essential oil, 20% by weight of essential oil of Rosemary, 3% by weight of savory essential oil desMontagnes or savory perennial, and 2% by weight of thyme essential oil, relative to the total weight of the mixture. 11. Use according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the mixture of essential oils is present in a composition in a content ranging from 0.001% to 5% relative to the total weight of said composition. 12. Mixture of essential oils according to claims 1 and 8 to 11, for preventing and / or treating ichthyosis, atopic dermatitis, hyperkeratosis, or psoriasis. 13. Cosmetic process for regulating or promoting desquamation of a skin comprising at least one step consisting in administering, topically, to an individual in need, at least one essential oil mixture as defined according to claims 1 and 8. at 11.