FR2956977A1 - ANTI-AGE COSMETIC COMPOSITION, USE AND CORRESPONDING APPLICATION METHOD - Google Patents

Abstract

Anti-aging cosmetic composition, use and corresponding application method. The invention relates to a cosmetic composition for topical use having properties for reducing the effects of aging of the skin, said composition comprising at least a first active agent for protecting and / or repairing the DNA of skin cells, including fibroblasts, said cosmetic composition being characterized in that it also comprises at least a second active agent designed to act on the organization of a dermal network constituted by at least fibers produced by the fibroblasts in the dermis of the skin. Cosmetic compositions.

Description

The present invention relates to the general technical field of cosmetic products for topical use, in particular dermo-cosmetic products, applicable in particular to the skin, and which can for example be presented under solid, fluid, pasty or liquid form, semi-liquid or serai-pasty, gel, powder, oil or foam. The present invention relates in particular to cosmetic compositions having slowing down properties of skin aging.

The present invention relates more particularly to a cosmetic composition for topical use having properties for reducing the effects of aging of the skin, said composition comprising at least a first active agent for protecting and / or repairing the DNA of the skin cells including fibroblasts. The present invention also relates to the use, in a cosmetic composition for topical use, of at least a first active agent for protecting and / or repairing the DNA of skin cells, including fibroblasts, in order to confer on said cosmetic composition reducing properties of the effects of aging skin. The present invention further relates to a method of applying a cosmetic composition having properties of reducing the effects of aging of the skin. The present invention also relates to a method of manufacturing a cosmetic composition for topical use having properties for reducing the effects of aging of the skin. The present invention finally relates to a use in a cosmetic composition for topical use of at least one plant extract to give said cosmetic composition properties for reducing the effects of aging of the skin. B10568 / EN The skin naturally has an aging phenomenon which is visually reflected by the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, by a loss of firmness of the skin and / or by a sagging of the latter, for example. In general, the natural process of aging of the skin starts from the age of 20 and continues to grow beyond this age, especially after age 35. Although it is a natural and inevitable phenomenon in humans, the fact remains that certain factors are likely to aggravate skin aging, or even accelerate it. Among the well-known factors that can aggravate skin aging, we usually refer to internal factors (genetic and hormonal) and external factors such as the sun, pollution, stress and consumption of alcohol or tobacco. . In particular, external factors cause excess free radical production which results in oxidative stress. This stress leads to an aggressiveness of free radicals vis-à-vis the body, especially vis-à-vis the fundamental elements of the skin, such as in particular keratinocytes, fibroblasts, collagen and elastin. The skin thus loses strength and elasticity. From a biological point of view, aging of the skin is mainly due to a thinning of the dermis, in particular of the dermal network also called "dermal mattress" in which are concentrated the collagen and elastin fibers responsible for maintaining, The firmness and suppleness of the skin, The major component of the dermis collagen compared to elastin, is responsible for the support and firmness of the skin, while elastin contributes primarily to the suppleness to the skin. These two fibers of protein nature, produced by the fibroblasts that are part of the dermal cells, are present in sufficient quantity in the young skins to ensure by their quantity and their arrangement in the dermal network a smooth, firm and elastic skin. When the skin ages naturally or under the influence of certain aggravating factors, skin cells whose fibroblasts are renewed less quickly and less well, partly because of damage to their DNA. As a result, the production of collagen and elastin decreases and they are no longer able to effectively perform their role in the dermal network that thins, which leads to a loss of firmness and elasticity of the skin which tends to sag and wrinkle. B10568 / FR It is now known to use various skin treatments to curb its natural aging and the eventual acceleration of the latter. In particular, it is conventional to use cosmetic care which mainly aim to stimulate the production of collagen and elastin by the fibroblast. For example, cosmetic skincare products based on retinol or vitamin A, or based on a precursor thereof, such as certain carotenoids for example, are known. Indeed, retinol is well known for its "anti-aging" effect on the skin, especially because of its transformation into retinoic acid in the dermis. Retinoic acid then binds to retinoic acid receptors on the fibroblast membrane to stimulate fibroblast activity, including the production of collagen and elastin. Retinol also stimulates epidermal and dermal cell renewal, particularly by promoting the renewal of fibroblasts. However, despite its effectiveness, retinol has a number of disadvantages. Indeed, retinol is a component whose formulation is particularly restrictive because it is classified among the ingredients whose handling presents a risk of adverse effects on a future child in the event of pregnancy of the manipulator, and a risk of irritation for the children. eyes, the respiratory tract and the skin. It is also a component classified as harmful if ingested. In addition, retinol is particularly unstable to light, heat and oxygen, which inevitably multiplies the precautions to be taken when incorporated into cosmetic formulations. It is necessary, for example, to perform certain steps of the process for manufacturing a cosmetic formula under yellow light, under an atmosphere based on an inert gas such as argon or nitrogen, etc. These specific steps necessary for the incorporation of retinol in cosmetic compositions make the industrialization of the process delicate, time-consuming and also expensive. In addition, the cosmetic composition which contains retinol must be stored in a specific packaging protecting it from light and oxygen. The manufacture of such a packaging therefore entails additional production costs. Finally, retinol also causes certain intolerance reactions, especially skin reactions, when applying a cosmetic treatment comprising retinol to the skin. Such reactions have the main consequence of limiting the use of retinol in cosmetic compositions and / or reducing the percentage of incorporation, which considerably reduces the effectiveness of these cosmetic treatments on the effects of aging of the skin. .

The objects assigned to the invention therefore aim to remedy the various disadvantages listed above and to propose a novel cosmetic composition having properties for reducing the effects of aging of the skin, having a good cutaneous tolerance and which is on the one hand practical and simple to formulate, and secondly particularly active, effective and safe on reducing the effects of aging skin. Another object of the invention is to propose a novel cosmetic composition which effectively and safely promotes the genetic expression of fibroblasts. Another object of the invention is to propose a novel cosmetic composition which comprises compounds of natural origin that are particularly effective in terms of reducing the effects of aging of the skin, which are easy to formulate and inexpensive. Another object of the invention is to propose a novel cosmetic composition whose formulation limits the risks of intolerance for the user. Another object of the invention is to propose a new cosmetic composition allowing an effective action, both global and localized, on aging of the skin. Another object of the invention is to propose a new cosmetic composition having a broad spectrum of applications and uses in the field of cosmetics. Another object of the invention is to propose a new simple, safe and effective use of at least two active agents intended to confer on a cosmetic composition properties for reducing the effects of aging of the skin and a good one. skin tolerance.

Another object of the invention is to propose a new method of simple, safe, practical and effective application of a cosmetic composition for topical use having properties for reducing the effects of aging of the skin and good skin tolerance. Another object of the invention is to propose a novel process for the manufacture of a cosmetic composition having properties for reducing the effects of aging of the skin which is particularly simple, practical and inexpensive to produce, which limits the risks for the skin. manipulators who implement it and has good skin tolerance. Another object of the invention is to propose a new simple, safe and effective use of at least one plant extract intended to confer on a cosmetic composition properties for reducing the effects of aging of the skin and good skin tolerance. The objects assigned to the invention are achieved by means of a cosmetic composition for topical use having properties for reducing the effects of aging of the skin, said composition comprising at least a first active agent for protecting and / or repairing the skin. DNA of the skin cells whose fibroblasts, said cosmetic composition being characterized in that it also comprises at least one second active agent designed to act on the organization of a dermal network consisting of at least fibers produced by the fibroblasts in the dermis of the skin.

The objects assigned to the invention are also achieved by using, in a cosmetic composition for topical use, at least a first active agent for protecting and / or repairing the DNA of the cells of the skin whose fibroblasts and at least one second active agent designed to act on the organization of a dermal network constituted by at least fibers produced by the fibroblasts in the dermis of the skin, in order to confer on the cosmetic composition properties for reducing the effects aging of the skin. The objects assigned to the invention are furthermore attained by means of a process for applying a cosmetic composition having properties for reducing the effects of aging of the skin, characterized in that it consists of to apply to the epidermis a cosmetic composition according to the above.

The objects assigned to the invention are moreover achieved by means of a method of manufacturing a cosmetic composition for topical use having properties for reducing the effects of aging of the skin, in which at least one first active agent for protecting and / or repairing the DNA of skin cells including fibroblasts and at least one second active agent designed to act on the organization of a dermal network consisting of at least fibers produced by the fibroblasts in the dermis skin. The objects assigned to the invention are finally achieved by use in a cosmetic composition for topical use of at least one plant extract of Senna alata to protect and / or repair the DNA of skin cells including fibroblasts , so as to confer on said cosmetic composition properties for reducing the effects of aging of the skin. Other objects and advantages of the invention will appear more on reading the description, examples and tests which follow, given purely by way of illustration and not limitation.

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition, that is to say a preparation of several ingredients compatible with each other and with a cosmetic use. The cosmetic composition is intended to improve the appearance, for example from a visual and / or tactile point of view, of the part of the body on which it is applied. In particular, the cosmetic composition is advantageously a mixture of several substances used together to have a common effect of embellishing, cleaning, modifying, improving, maintaining and / or repairing the appearance and / or the smell of the body area on which they are intended to be applied. The cosmetic composition of the invention is for topical use, that is to say that it acts at the place where it is applied, in particular on a part of the body in contact with the external environment, such as the skin . Advantageously, the cosmetic composition B10568 / FR of the invention is for external use and is intended to be applied to the human skin, at the level of its epidermis, in order to obtain a localized action on the latter. It is a cosmetic composition having properties for reducing the effects of aging of the skin, conventionally called "anti-aging" cosmetic composition. In other words, the cosmetic composition of the invention has its own characteristics which confer on it an action of slowing cutaneous aging, whether natural or induced by internal (hormonal and / or genetic) or external factors, such as smoking and / or alcohol, sun exposure, stress, pollution, etc. The cosmetic composition, when applied to human skin, is therefore advantageously intended to limit the effects of old age on the skin, which most often result in sagging of the skin, the appearance of wrinkles, sagging of skin, loss of firmness, tone and / or elasticity of the skin, dehydration, etc.

The cosmetic composition of the invention is preferably a hygiene product (for example a shower gel, soap, shampoo, soap-free skin cleansing bar), a care product (for example anti-wrinkle cream, day cream, night cream, moisturizing cream, floral water, scrub, body milk, beauty mask, lip balm, toner, hand cream, foot cream), a perfume (eg cologne, eau de toilette, perfume), a makeup product (for example concealer, self-tanner, foundation, skin whitener, lipstick) and / or a sun product (eg cream, oil, milk, stick or after-sun lotion and solar), which has "anti-aging" properties. In a particularly preferred manner, the cosmetic composition is a cream, a balm or a milk for the face and / or the body. The cosmetic composition is therefore preferably in various galenic forms. Advantageously, it constitutes a skin care dermocosmetic product designed to reduce the effects of the aging of said skin, which is in the form of a cream and / or a gel and / or a body lotion and / or a lotion. and / or a foam and / or an oil. B10568 / FR In the sense of "dermo-cosmetic product" is meant a product that has both a cosmetic action and an effect on the dermis of the skin. For example, the cosmetic composition of the invention is an anti-wrinkle day cream intended to reduce the appearance and / or number of facial wrinkles of women over 50 years of age or an anti-aging day cream intended to restore the firmness of the facial skin of women aged 35 to 45 years. The composition of the invention comprises at least one first active agent for protecting and / or repairing the DNA of skin cells whose fibroblasts, that is to say that it acts on one or more cells. precise dermis of the skin, especially in the fibroblast responsible for the production of collagen and elastin. The main active agent has the main function of acting preferentially at the nuclear DNA and / or mitochondrial fibroblasts, for example by protecting it by its antioxidant action against free radicals whose number increases with age and with certain internal and / or external factors such as those mentioned above (pollution, stress, etc.). The first active agent also advantageously has an action of gene stimulation of certain DNA repair enzymes present in the cells of the skin, for example in keratinocytes and fibroblasts, so as to restore and / or maintain its activity of synthesis of collagen and elastin, so that they provide firmness and elasticity to the skin.

Preferably, the first active agent comprises at least one flavonoid composed of kaempferol and / or at least one of its derivatives, the latter being a flavonoid type flavonoid whose antioxidant activity is known. Advantageously, the first active agent is provided in the composition by at least one plant extract comprising kaempferol and / or at least one of its derivatives in an amount sufficient to protect and / or repair the DNA of the skin cells whose fibroblasts. The latter has an effect both antioxidant and stimulator of DNA repair enzymes of skin cells including fibroblasts so as to limit the effect of aging skin. The plant extract which comprises the first active agent is preferably chosen for its concentration of kaempferol, or at least one of its derivatives, in particular K30F (kaempferol-3-o-sophoroside), sufficient to have the aforementioned effect. on the DNA of skin cells including fibroblasts, for its compatibility with a cosmetic composition, its ease of formulation, and also for its good tolerance by human skin, so as to limit allergic risks or 'intolerance. Thus, in a particularly advantageous embodiment, the first active agent is provided in the composition with a plant extract of Senna alata, for example in the form of an asset whose INCI formula is the following: "water, glycerin, Cassia alata leaf extract "(water, glycerin, Cassia alata leaf extract). The plant Senna alata, otherwise called darter or winged case, is a tree plant whose leaves are naturally rich in K3OF and which is perfectly tolerated by the human body. The presence of a plant extract in the cosmetic composition advantageously promotes a natural product image, even vegetable, of the composition. Alternatively, it is perfectly conceivable that the present cosmetic composition comprises a supply of kaempferol or at least one of its derivatives, for example K30F, by any other plant extract or any other substance compatible with a cosmetic application to human skin. It is furthermore quite possible that the present cosmetic composition comprises an entirely other first active agent which has the claimed action on the DNA of skin cells including fibroblasts. The cosmetic composition comprises between substantially 0.01% and 5% by weight of the first active agent, preferably between substantially 1 and 3% by weight. In a particularly advantageous embodiment, the cosmetic composition comprises substantially between 0.01 and 0.2% by weight of kaempferol or at least one of its derivatives, in particular K3OF which is the main molecule active on cutaneous aging. of the vegetable extract of Senna alata. The present invention relates, as a whole, independently of the foregoing, to a use in a topical cosmetic composition of at least one Senna alata plant extract to protect and / or repair DNA skin cells including fibroblasts, so as to confer on said cosmetic composition properties for reducing the effects of aging of the skin.

The composition of the invention also comprises at least a second active agent designed to act on the organization of a dermal network consisting of at least B T 0568 / FR fibers produced by the fibroblasts in the dermis of the skin. In other words, the cosmetic composition acts on the dermal network, or dermal mattress, in which the collagen and elastin fibers produced by the fibroblast are entangled and arranged, in order to slow down the effects of aging of the skin.

More specifically, the second active agent is designed to have an action on the reinforcement and rearrangement of the dermal mesh which is mainly created by the collagen and elastin fibers whose density and arrangement make it possible to maintain or restore the firmness skin, reduced by aging. In a particularly advantageous manner, the second active agent comprises properties for stimulating a fibroblast contractile activity, so as to activate the dynamism of the fibroblast in the dermal network, in particular on the collagen and elastin fibers contained therein. Thus, the second active agent is absorbed, adsorbed by the fibroblast or fixed on a receptor of the latter and allows to promote the dynamism of the latter, including its contractile properties which participate actively in the specific arrangement of collagen fibers and elastin in the dermal network. In other words, the second active agent acts preferentially on the activity of the fibroblast within the dermal network, in particular on the interaction between the fibroblast and the collagen fibers, which is particularly advantageous compared to prior compositions which act only on the collagen and / or elastin production activity of the fibroblast. In particular, in young skin, the fibroblasts organized in the dermal network are in general sufficiently numerous and capable of contracting to organize the distribution and interaction of the collagen and elastin fibers together to guarantee a firm, smooth skin. and elastic.

On the other hand, at the time of aging of the skin, it occurs on the one hand by a degradation of the fibroblast DNA which can be protected and / or repaired by the first active agent, and on the other hand a reduction of the capacities dynamic fibroblasts in the dermal network that contribute to the organization of the latter, said reduction being able to be halted or limited by the contribution of the second active agent. As a result, the second active agent is preferably chosen for its action on the fibroblast so as to have an action complementary to that of the first active agent which also acts in a targeted manner on the fibroblast. Preferably, the second active agent comprises at least one alkylamide and is advantageously provided in the composition by at least one plant extract comprising at least one alkylamide in an amount sufficient to act on the dermal network. The alkylamides have the advantage of being easy to formulate and resist heat. Preferably, the second active agent is precisely provided in the composition by a plant extract of Spilanthes acmella, for example in the form of an active ingredient whose INCI formula is the following: "Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride, Spilanthes Acmela Flower Extract". Spilanthes acmella has the advantage of being naturally rich in alkylamides, to be compatible with antioxidants and with Senna alata, to be easy to incorporate in cosmetic formulas, to have a very good toxicological profile without risk for the manipulator and the user, and to be of natural origin. It thus promotes an image of natural or even vegetable product for the cosmetic composition that comprises it. Alternatively, and without departing from the scope of the present invention, it is perfectly conceivable that the composition of the invention comprises another source of alkylamides having an action on the dermal network, for example another plant extract. It is also possible that the composition comprises another compound capable of acting on the dermal network, in combination with an action on fibroblast DNA. The cosmetic composition of the invention advantageously comprises between substantially 0.01% and 5% by weight of the second active agent, preferably between substantially 0.1 and 2% by weight. Preferably, said first and second active agents are of natural origin, preferably of plant origin. They thus promote the natural image of the cosmetic product that contains them. In addition, said first and second active agents have a synergistic and complementary action on the fibroblast of the skin so as to allow a targeted action on the fibroblast which promotes a reinforced and global efficacy on the aging phenomenon of the skin. skin. Furthermore, the cosmetic composition of the invention comprises at least a third active agent designed to stimulate fibroblast turnover and / or fiber synthesis by the fibroblast. In other words, the composition consists, in addition to said first and second active agents referred to above, of a third cosmetic agent which has an action on both the cellular regeneration of the fibroblast itself and on the production of collagen fibers. and elastin by the latter. Thus, the third active agent is preferably chosen to have an action on the fibroblast that is complementary and synergistic with that of said first and second active agents. Advantageously, the third active agent is a precursor of vitamin A, otherwise called retinol, present in the cosmetic composition between substantially 0.001 and 10% by weight of the composition, preferably between substantially 0.1 and 5%. The third active agent is preferably a compound capable of being converted into retinol and then retinoic acid in the human dermis so as to be subsequently associated with retinoic acid receptors present on the fibroblast membrane to allow cell renewal stimulation action. of the latter and fiber manufacturing by the latter. Preferably, the third active agent is β-carotene which is well known to be a precursor of retinol and which is preferentially provided in an oil. The third active agent, which is advantageously a precursor of vitamin A (retinol), preferably a 13-carotene, is encapsulated, so as to limit the risks of intolerance, the difficulties of industrialization and the conditioning problems of the cosmetic composition. Indeed, as previously mentioned, retinol poses many problems in terms of risks for the manipulator and the user, and in terms of instability at the time of its formulation in a cosmetic composition. The encapsulation of [3-carotene thus makes it possible to avoid the problems raised by retinol while guaranteeing its introduction at a dose sufficient to allow an optimal effectiveness of [3-carotene on cutaneous aging, in particular by allowing the targeted action retinol on the fibroblast. In a particularly advantageous embodiment, the third active agent consists of β-carotene encapsulated in spheres of vegetable origin. In this preferred embodiment, β-carotene is provided as an oil encapsulated in plant cell walls. For example, the third active agent is constituted by "phytospheres" of [3-carotene, whose INCI formula is the following: "Aqua (purified Water) / Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride / Butylene Glycol / Pentylene Glycol / Carbomer / Helianthus Annuus ( Sunflower) Seed Oil / Beta-carotene / Acacia Senegal Gum / Tocopherol "(pure water, caprylic and capric triglycerides, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, carbomer, Helianthus Annuus seed oil (sunflower), Senegal acacia gum, Tocopherol It is alternatively quite possible for the third active agent to be of a totally different nature, provided that it has on the one hand a combined action of stimulation of the cellular renewal of fibroblasts and of their production of collagen and elastin, and secondly a complementary action with that of said first and second active agents. The cosmetic composition of the invention constitutes a cosmetic product of the skin designed to act in at least four ways of reducing the effects of aging of the skin: a first course of action for protecting and / or repairing the DNA of the cells skin including fibroblasts, a second route of action of dermal network organization, a third action pathway for stimulating fibroblastic turnover and a fourth route of action for stimulating fiber synthesis by the fibroblast. Preferably, the first active agent, preferably a plant extract of Senna alata comprising K3OF, acts according to the first route of action, the second active agent, preferably a plant extract based on Spilanthes acmella comprising alkylamides, acts according to the second pathway and the third active agent, preferably based on phytospheres of [3-carotene, acts according to the third route of action. Advantageously, said first, second and third active agents have a synergistic and complementary action on reducing the consequences of skin aging, in particular by their localized and targeted action on the fibroblast. B10568 / FR Thus, the present cosmetic composition advantageously comprises at least three active agents which make it possible to have numerous and varied actions, at different locations on the fibroblasts and on the dermal network, so as to effectively arrest the aging phenomenon of the skin , whatever the cause. This cosmetic composition has the advantage of ensuring a global action on the dermal network and localized on the fibroblast cell to reduce the effects of skin aging. EXAMPLES OF FORMULATION By way of illustration, two examples of formulation of cosmetic compositions (composition A and B), of anti-aging day cream type, in accordance with the invention are presented below. Formula A Components Percentage Aqua (Purifed Water) 67.8681 Cyclopentasiloxane Isononyl Isononanoate * Isohexadecane Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride 2.5326 Corn Starch Modified Butylene Glycol 1.94625 Methyl Methacrylate Crosspolymer Behenyl Alcohoi * Glycerin 1.5 Butyrospermum Parkii Butter (Shea Butter) * Dimethicone * Hydrogenated Palm Kernel Glycerides Phenoxyethanol * Triethanolamine * Palmitoyl Proline Tocopherol 0,5012 Glyceryl Stearate * Perfume (Fragrance) * PEG-100 Stearate * Dehydroacetic Acid Paraffinum Liquidum (OR Ore) * Chlorphenesin * Hydrogenated Palm Glycerides Acrylates / C10-30 Aikyl Acrylate Crosspolymer Carbomer 0.192 Magnesium Palmitoyl Glutamate Palmitic Acid Sodium Palmitoyl Sarcosinate * Cassia Alata Leaf Extract 0.15 Maitodextrin Pentylene Glycol 0.15 B 10568 / FR Pentaerythrityl Tetra-di-t-butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate * Spilanthes Acmella Flower Extract 0.059 Disodiurn EDTA * Silica Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil 0.0042 Beta Carotene 0.0018 Acacia Seneg al Gum 0.0012 * known percent of man's wary and variable depending on composition Formula B Components Percentage Aqua (Purified Water) 61.85085 Dicaprylyl Carbonate * Octyldodecanol * CapryliGCapric Triglyceride 4.5326 Butylene Glycol 3.4425 Glycerin 3 Cyclopentasiloxane * Cetyl Alcohol * Cocoglycerides * Glyceryl Stearate * Butyrospermum Pariai Butter (Shea Butter) * Behenyl Alcohol * Corn Starch Modified * Dimethicone 1 Phenoxyethanol * Ammonium AcryloyldimethyltaurateNP Copolymer * PEG-75 Stearate * Tocopherol 0,50345 Fragrance * Dehydroacetic acid * Ceteth- 20-k Steareth-20 * Chlorphenesin * Cassia Alata Leaf Extract 0.15 Maltodextrin * Pentylene Glycol 0.15 Pentaerythrityl Tetra-di-t-butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate * Triethanolamine * Spilanthes Acmella Flower Extract 0.059 Disodium EDTA * Carbomer 0.012 Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil 0.0042 Beta-Carotene 0.0018 Acacia Senegal Gum 0.0012 * Percentage known to man and wary depending on composition These formulas were tested to demonstrate their anti-aging potential on the skin by an in vitro test and two in vivo tests summarized below. B 10568 / FR TEST IN VITRO: Study of the effect of formulas A and B on cell proliferation on human fibroblasts The objective of this study is to test the effect of formulas A and B of anti-aging day cream as described above, on the cellular proliferation of human fibroblasts.

Material and method Proliferation is evaluated by the incorporation of BrdU (Bromodeoxyuridine) in the cellular DNA at the time of its replication. BrdU is detected by an antigen / antibody reaction, using an anti-BrdU antibody, coupled to peroxidase. Revelation of the reaction is with a peroxidase substrate, TMB (tetramethylbenzydine) and a spectrophotometric reading at 450 nm. Formulas A and B are tested at three different incorporation doses: 1000 μg / ml, 500 μg / ml and 100 μg / ml. These two formulas are furthermore compared with a negative control and a positive control which is a TGF 131 growth factor of 10 ng / ml. Results The results obtained with the two formulas are presented in the following tables: Formula A: Cell viability Proliferation: incorporation of BrdU Standard deviation Viability nad-type Ratio Abs BrdU 1 Stimulation UA MTT in% Control 0.310 100% 1.009 3.26 negative Control 0.308 99% 1.424 4.62 42% positive Formula A at 0.328 106% 1.640 4.99 53% 1000 pglml Formula A at 0.335 108% 1.586 4.74 45% 500 pglml Formula A at 0.304 98% 1.689 5.55 70 % 100 .iglml B 10568 / FR Formula B: Cell viability Proliferation: incorporation of BrdU Standard deviation Viability Standard deviation Ratio Abs BrdU 1 Stimulation UAMTT in% Control 0.310 100% 1.009 3.26 negative Control 0.308 99% 1.424 4.62 42% positive Formula A at 0.228 73% 0.788 3.46 6% 1000 pgml Formula A at 0.232 75% 0.936 4.04 24% 500 pgml Formula A at 0.275 89% 1.391 5.06 55% 100 pgml Formulas A and B allow a significant increase in BrdU incorporation compared to the negative control. This reflects stimulation of cell proliferation with a maximum of 70% for formula A and 55% for formula B obtained at a dose of 100 μg / ml. A substantially inversely proportional effect is observed between the dose tested and the percentage of stimulation obtained. Therefore, formulas A and B advantageously stimulate fibroblastic synthesis and fibroblastic turnover, and therefore have an effect to limit skin aging.

TEST IN V1VO n ° 1: Study of the anti-wrinkle potential, tolerance and cosmetic qualities of formula B The main objective of this study is to measure the effectiveness of formula B on the reduction of wrinkles in the skin of female subjects, after 28 days of twice-daily application, morning and evening, on the face and forearm. This test consists mainly of determining the skin microrelief changes induced by the application of the formula B on the skin and to evaluate the cutaneous tolerance and the cosmetic acceptability of this formula. B10568 / FR The 20 volunteers in this study also participate, at the same time, in the in vivo test n ° 2: "evaluation of the tensor effect of a cosmetic product after 28 days of application" carried out with the same formula B and whose protocol and the results are detailed in the following description.

Material and methods Characteristics. Product type: Cosmetic end product, including an anti-aging day cream of formula B; Product class: care; Presentation: emulsion; Color: pale yellow; Storage conditions: room temperature; Packaging: plastic pump bottle. Conduct of the trial The study was conducted between 1711212009 and 14/01/2010 at the Dermatological Institute of Aquitaine (Martillac, France), according to a specific internal protocol. Characteristics of volunteers 20 female volunteers, aged 35 to 60, with dry to very dry skin in the face, with moderate to severe crow's feet wrinkles, are included in the study. Methodology Each volunteer was examined at the beginning and end of the study by an investigator who noted the cutaneous signs observed at the application site of the product and verified the criteria for inclusion and non-inclusion. A footprint of the crow's feet was made on the first day of the study (D1), before any application of the formula B, and at the end of the test, 12 hours ± 2 hours after the last application of the formula B at the 28th day of the test (D28). 25 At the beginning of the study, each volunteer received a sample to be tested and the conditions of use indicated on the logbook: morning and evening application on the

810568 / EN face, with emphasis on the crow's feet and forearm right or left, replacing the usual care product for 28 days until the evening before the appointment of end of study . During the course of the study, each volunteer is obliged not to change his hygiene habits, not to use new cosmetic products, to not intentionally expose himself to the sun, not to carry out UV sessions. and practice doing institute care. At the end of the study, the volunteer brings back formula B as well as his logbook and evaluates the cosmetic qualities of the studied product.

The measurements relate to the number of wrinkles, the total area of the wrinkles, the total length of the wrinkles which is the sum of the length of each of the wrinkles and the average length of the wrinkles which corresponds to the total length of the wrinkles divided by the number wrinkles. Results The table below presents the averages and standard deviations of the global parameters of the treated skin site as well as the statistical analysis between JI and J28: Parameters Before application (J1) After application (J28)% of W of mean deviation average type Variance standard Wilcoxon variation Number of 83,95 33,80 69,8 32,01 -16,86% S wrinkles Total area 7.60 5.57 4.87 2.90 -35.95% S wrinkles (mm2) Total length 42.76 19.26 32.21 16.13 -24.67% S wrinkles (mm) Length 0.52 0.14 0.46 0.10 -11.67% S average wrinkles (mm) * (S) significant difference, the threshold of significance is set at 0.05. All p <0.05 indicates a statistically significant difference between JI and J28, according to the Wilcoxon statistical test. B10568 / FR Statistical analysis of cutaneous microrelief parameters with formula B revealed a statistically significant decrease for all parameters tested. Formula B, which includes Senna alata and Spilanthes acmella, therefore has a significant effect on the decrease in number, total area, total length and average wrinkle length of treated subjects. TEST IN VIVO n ° 2: Evaluation of the tensing effect of formula B after 28 days of application The main objective of this study is to measure the effectiveness of formula B on the biomechanical properties of the skin, in particular on the skin. elasticity and firmness of the skin of female subjects, after 28 days of application twice daily, morning and evening, on the face and forearm. The volunteers of this study also participate, at the same time, in the in vivo test No. 1: "Study of the anti-wrinkle potential, tolerance and cosmetic qualities of formula B" above. Material and methods Characteristi_q_ues. Product Type: cosmetic end product, including an anti-aging day cream of formula B; Product class: care; Presentation: emulsion; Color: pale yellow; Storage conditions: room temperature; Packaging: plastic pump bottle.

Conduct of the test The study was conducted between 17/12/2009 and 14/01/2010 at the Dermatological Institute of Aquitaine (Martillac, France), according to a specific internal protocol. Characteristics of the volunteers 20 female volunteers, aged 35 to 60, with dry to very dry skin on the face and loose skin in the forearms, being free from allergic or cosmetics antecedents household or atopy, are included in the study. B 10568 / EN Methodology Organization of the test The test is monocentric, open and comparative between the first day (D1) and the last day (D28) of the test. It includes: An initial assessment to check inclusion and non inclusion criteria, - A treatment period during which Formula B is applied morning and evening on the face and forearm, for 28 days by the voluntary, - A period of evaluation of the cutaneous biomechanical properties, before the application of the formula B (J1), then after 28 days of application (J28).

Evaluations are done by the same person throughout the trial. Description of the material used Measurements of the biomechanical properties of the skin are made using a Dermal Torque Meter DIA-STRON (DTM). Extensibility values are given as angular displacements in degrees set by the device on a variable scale depending on each individual. These values reflect the degree of suppleness and firmness of the skin. The device comprises the following three elements: - A control unit, interface between a measuring probe and a computer to which it is connected, - A measuring probe connected to the control unit by a cable, DTMWIN software that receives the data from the measurement probe, saves them to the hard disk and analyzes the data. Measurement and application skin areas The measurements and application of formula B are performed on the forearm. The skin is examined beforehand, in order to retain only the surfaces free from any macroscopic traces of irritation or any anomaly that may interfere with the measurement and the interpretation of the results. B10568 / EN Conditioning of the volunteer After the preparation of the application zones and before carrying out any measurement, each volunteer is put to rest for approximately 30 minutes, in order to reach a stable equilibrium of water exchange between the skin and the skin. surrounding environment.

Determination of the degree of initial firmness The cutaneous biomechanical properties are measured using the DTM at a point in each cutaneous zone (rectangle length 5 cm and width 4 cm) previously defined for each volunteer. The force used is 15 milliNewton. Evaluation methods Two parameters are measured by the DTM: Ue: extensibility of the skin, Ur: angle of deformation after release of the torsion force, represents skin tonicity. These parameters make it possible to measure the firmness of the skin which corresponds to the Ur / Ue ratio. The increase in this ratio reflects the firming of the skin. Repeated measurements of the deformation parameters (Ue, Ur and Ur / Ue) make it possible objectively to evaluate the effect of the cosmetic products on the state of firmness of the skin compared to a zone without treatment and at different measurement times. The analysis of cutaneous biomechanical properties is determined by referring to the effects presented below, after having looked for a significant difference between J1 and J28 by the Wilcoxon W test for each parameter studied: - Pure tensor effect: Ur increases and Ue decreases , Effect more tensing than hydrating: Ur increases, Ur / Ue increases, Ue increase <10%. B 10568 / EN 2225 Results The table below shows the averages and percentages of variation of the global parameters of the treated skin site (forearm) measured with the DTM as well as the statistical analysis between JI and J28: forearm DTM treated Ue: extensibility Ur: cutaneous tone Ur / Ue: cutaneous firmness cutaneous Average J 1 3,720 1,979 0,537 Average J28 3,846 2,159 0,561% of variation J281J1 + 3,39% + 9,10% + 4,46% W of Wilcoxon * NS SS DTM forearm control Ue: extensibility Ur: skin tone Ur / Ue: dermal cutaneous firmness Average J1 3,734 1,975 0,530 Average D28 3,869 2,125 0,549% of variation D28 / D1 + 3,62% + 7,59% +3,57 % W of Wilcoxon * NS NS NS * (S) significant difference, the threshold of significance is set to 0.05. All p <0.05 indicates a statistically significant difference between JI and J28 with the Vlcoxon statistical test. (NS) non-significant difference This test revealed a statistically significant improvement in skin tone and firmness parameters, directly related to fibroblasts and improvement of the dermal network, after 28 days of application. of the formula B which comprises Senna alata and Spilanthes acmellae Thus, all of the tests described above demonstrate the effect both in vitro and in vivo of the two active agents of the invention on the reduction of the effects of aging of the skin. The present invention also relates to the use, in a cosmetic composition for topical use, of at least a first active agent for protecting and / or repairing the DNA of skin cells, including fibroblasts and at least one second active agent designed for act on the organization of a dermal network consisting at least of fibers produced by the fibroblasts in the dermis of the skin, in order to confer on said cosmetic composition properties for reducing the effects of aging of the skin. Furthermore, the present invention relates to a method for applying a cosmetic composition having properties for reducing the effects of aging of the skin. This method of application consists in applying to the epidermis a cosmetic composition as defined above, for example by light massage on the skin in order to make said cosmetic composition penetrate into the epidermis. Finally, the present invention relates to a method of manufacturing a cosmetic composition for topical use having properties for reducing the effects of aging of the skin, in which at least one first active agent is combined to protect and / or repair the DNA. skin cells including fibroblasts and at least one second active agent designed to act on the organization of a dermal network consisting of at least fibers produced by the fibroblasts in the dermis of the skin.

Advantageously, the manufacturing method of the invention comprises mixing at least the three aforementioned active agents with conventional ingredients of a cosmetic formulation, so as to design an anti-aging cosmetic composition according to the invention. In particular, this process comprises a step of mixing at least one plant extract of Senna alata, a plant extract of Spilanthes acmella and phytospheres of [3-carotene. B 10568 / FF2

Claims (7)

CLAIMS1 - Cosmetic composition for topical use having properties for reducing the effects of aging of the skin, said composition comprising at least a first active agent for protecting and / or repairing the DNA of skin cells, including fibroblasts, said cosmetic composition characterized in that it also comprises at least a second active agent designed to act on the organization of a dermal network consisting of at least fibers produced by the fibroblasts in the dermis of the skin. 2 - Cosmetic composition according to claim 1 characterized in that the first active agent comprises at least one flavonoid composed of kaempferol and / or at least one of its derivatives. 3 - Cosmetic composition according to claim 2 characterized in that the first active agent is provided in the composition by at least one plant extract comprising kaempferol and / or at least one of its derivatives in an amount sufficient to protect and / or repair the DNA of skin cells including fibroblasts. 4 - Cosmetic composition according to one of claims 1 to 3 characterized in that the first active agent is provided in the composition by a plant extract of Senna alata. 5 - Cosmetic composition according to one of claims 1 to 4 characterized in that it comprises between substantially 0.01% and 5% by weight of the first active agent, preferably between substantially 1 and 3% by weight. 6 - Cosmetic composition according to one of claims 1 to 5 characterized in that the second active agent comprises properties for stimulating a contractile activity of the fibroblast, so as to activate the dynamism of the fibroblast in the dermal network, in particular on the fibers contained in the latter. 7 - Cosmetic composition according to one of claims 1 to 6 characterized in that the second active agent comprises at least one alkylamide.- Cosmetic composition according to claim 7 characterized in that the second active agent is provided in the composition by at least a plant extract comprising at least one alkylamide in an amount sufficient to act on the dermal network. 9 - Cosmetic composition according to one of claims 1 to 8 characterized in that the second active agent is provided in the composition by a plant extract of Spilanthes acmella. Cosmetic composition according to one of claims 1 to 9 characterized in that it comprises between substantially 0.01% and 5% by weight of the second active agent, preferably between substantially 0.1 and 2% by weight. 11 - Cosmetic composition according to one of claims 1 to 10 characterized in that it comprises at least a third active agent designed to stimulate fibroblast turnover and / or fiber synthesis by the fibroblast. 12-cosmetic composition according to claim 11 characterized in that the third active agent is a precursor of vitamin A, present in the cosmetic composition between substantially 0.001 and 10% by weight of the composition, preferably between substantially 0.1 and 5 %. 13-Cosmetic composition according to claim 12 characterized in that the third active agent consists of 13-carotene encapsulated in spheres 20 of plant origin. 14-cosmetic composition according to one of claims 1 to 13 characterized in that it constitutes a cosmetic product of the skin designed to act in at least four ways of reducing the effects of aging skin: a first course of action for protecting and / or repairing the DNA of skin cells including fibroblasts, a second dermal network organization route of action, a third fibroblastic turnover stimulation pathway and a fourth pathway of action for stimulating the synthesis of fibers by the fibroblast.-Cosmetic composition according to one of claims 1 to 14, characterized in that it constitutes a skin-care dermo-cosmetic product designed to reduce the effects of the aging of said skin. skin, which is in the form of a cream and / or a gel and / or body milk and / or a lotion and / or a foam and / or an oil. Use in a cosmetic composition for topical use of at least one first active agent for protecting and / or repairing the DNA of skin cells, including fibroblasts and at least one second active agent designed to act on the organization of a dermal network constituted by at least fibers produced by the fibroblasts in the dermis of the skin, in order to confer on said cosmetic composition properties for reducing the effects of aging of the skin. 17 - Method for applying a cosmetic composition having properties for reducing the effects of aging of the skin characterized in that it consists in applying to the epidermis a cosmetic composition as defined in any one of claims 1 to 15. 18 - Process for the manufacture of a cosmetic composition for topical use having properties for reducing the effects of aging of the skin, in which at least one first active agent is combined to protect and / or repair the DNA of the cells of the skin including fibroblasts and at least one second active agent designed to act on the organization of a dermal network consisting of at least fibers produced by the fibroblasts in the dermis of the skin. 19 -Utilization in a cosmetic composition for topical use, as defined in any one of claims 1 to 15, of at least one plant extract of Senna alata to protect and / or repair the DNA of the skin cells of which fibroblasts, so as to confer on said cosmetic composition properties for reducing the effects of aging of the skin.