FR3112953A1 - Cosmetic use of the sacran - Google Patents

Abstract

Cosmetic use of the sacran The subject of the present invention is the cosmetic use of sacran for the cosmetic treatment of sensitive skin and/or mucous membranes and/or for preventing and/or reducing the unsightly and/or unpleasant and/or uncomfortable manifestations of sensitive skin and/or mucous membranes. .

Description

Cosmetic use of the sacran

The subject of the present invention is the cosmetic use of sacran for the cosmetic treatment of sensitive skin and/or mucous membranes and/or for preventing and/or reducing the unsightly and/or unpleasant and/or uncomfortable manifestations of sensitive skin and/or mucous membranes. .

In industrialized countries, the number of people who say they have sensitive skin has risen sharply in recent years. This number has grown from 30% of the population in the 1980s to around 60% today. The polymorphism of sensitive skin results in subjective sensations such as redness, feeling of heat or overheating, tension, tingling, tingling, tightness. These unsightly and/or uncomfortable manifestations are characteristic of sensitive skin.

One of the most important causes of skin sensitivity is increased neurosensory activity, which is characterized by changes in the nerve endings of the epidermis, with an accumulation of neurotransmitters or a disturbance in the transmission of information at the level of the central nervous system.

The Applicant has discovered, surprisingly and unexpectedly, that sacran makes it possible to prevent and/or treat sensitive skin.

The Applicant has moreover also discovered that the sacran makes it possible to increase the quantity of oxytocin and thus to modulate the neural messengers responses in people with sensitive skin. Sacran is therefore particularly suitable for the care and/or cosmetic treatment of sensitive skin and/or mucous membranes.

Given the extent of skin sensitivity problems, it is essential to find alternative cosmetic treatments to those existing on the market in order to be able to offer a variety of treatments to these skin types, making it possible to meet the multiple needs of constraints. formulation, tolerance and compatibility. The sacran also has the advantage of providing other properties already described in the literature such as hydration which provide an interesting complement in the context of the care and treatment of sensitive skin, thus making it possible to reduce the number of ingredients in formulation and thus fully meet the needs of sensitive skin

Sacran is a natural high molecular weight sulfated polysaccharide extracted from the gelatinous extracellular matrix of the freshwater cyanobacterium Aphanothece sacrum .

Suizenji Nori, the Japanese name for Aphanothece sacrum , is a very rare blue-green algae that can only be grown in Japan, in groundwater in the Aso Mountains of Kyushu, (Ohki et al, Physiological properties and genetic analysis related to exopolysaccharide (EPS)vproduction in the fresh-water unicellular cyanobacterium Aphanothece sacrum (Suizenji Nori), J. Gen. Appl. Microbiol., 65, 39–46 (2019)).

“Suizenji Nori” seaweed is collected from the downstream part of the river and moved to the source of the river to optimize the growth of seaweed. Cultivation and manual harvesting are done all year round on the basis of the traditional know-how of the farmer. The best time for harvesting is May, then the seaweed is dried and the sacran is extracted from the extracellular matrix of the seaweed (Fukushima et al, Clinical Evaluation of Novel Natural Polysaccharides Sacran as a Skincare Material for Atopic Dermatitis Patients Journal of Cosmetics , Dermatological Sciences and Applications, 2016, 6, 9-18).

The sacran has high water retention capacities allowing it to absorb up to 6000 times its dry weight in pure water. Under the same conditions, hyaluronic acid only absorbs 1200 times its dry weight. Acting as an artificial barrier when applied to the skin, sacran improves skin barrier function and reduces transepidermal water loss in dry skin (Ngatu et al, Sacran, a natural skin barrier enhancer, improves atopic and contact eczema: Case report Annals of Phytomedicine 4(1): 111-113, 2015). Additionally, sacran showed potent anti-inflammatory effects, likely due to suppression of inflammatory cytokines and chemokines (Motoyama et al, Sacran: Novel Sulfated Polysaccharide as Anti-Allergic Skincare Biomaterial for Atopic Dermatitis, Occupational and Environmental Skin Disorders pp 79-92, 2018). These results, high water absorption capacity, improved skin barrier function and reduced inflammation, explain the beneficial effects of sacran for the treatment of atopic dermatitis. However, none of these previously described applications concerns the use of the sacran in the context of cosmetic care or treatment applied to healthy skin, in the absence of any inflammatory phenomenon or alteration of the skin barrier. Conversely, these documents mention on the contrary that the sacran does not penetrate healthy skin (Motoyama et al, Sacran: Novel Sulfated Polysaccharide as Anti-Allergic Skincare Biomaterial for Atopic Dermatitis, Occupational and Environmental Skin Disorders pp 79-92, 2018).

Thus, to the Applicant's knowledge, none of the prior arts discloses the use of sacran, for its properties for the care and/or cosmetic treatment of sensitive skin and/or mucous membranes, and advantageously for increasing its well-being. and/or to prevent and/or reduce one or more of the unsightly and/or unpleasant and/or uncomfortable manifestations of sensitive skin and/or mucous membranes, advantageously chosen from redness, the sensation of heat or heating or tension, tingling, tingling and/or tightness and a mixture of these manifestations, and in particular to increase the quantity of oxytocin.

The present invention therefore relates to the cosmetic use of sacran for the care and/or cosmetic treatment of sensitive skin and/or mucous membranes and/or to increase their well-being and/or to prevent and/or reduce one or more of the unsightly and/or unpleasant and/or uncomfortable manifestations of sensitive skins and/or mucous membranes, said skins and/or mucous membranes being healthy skins and/or healthy mucous membranes.

In general, sensitive skins and/or mucous membranes can be defined as skins which, by nature, tolerate very little aggressive agents, in particular environmental agents such as polluting agents, climatic factors (wind , cold, heat), UV exposure, emotional factors including stress and/or chemical agents (heavy metals, detergents, compounds contained in cosmetic treatments such as perfumes, preservatives, alcohols, pH, AHA or dermatological such as vitamin A acid) and/or aggressive conditions, in particular perspiration and mechanical aggressions such as depilation, shaving, friction and even water, in particular hard water. Sensitive skin is not skin with pathological characteristics unlike allergic skin.

Thus, the sensitive skins and/or mucous membranes according to the present invention do not show any alteration of the skin barrier. Sensitive skin and/or mucous membranes are also not dry skin and/or mucous membranes.

They can nevertheless react to aggressive agents and/or conditions by unsightly and/or uncomfortable cutaneous and/or mucosal manifestations such as tingling, feeling of heat or overheating, tension, tingling, tightness, redness. Thus, the "sensitive skin" character can be estimated by the subject himself with subjective skin sensations or by the dermatologist with objective skin reactions.

The unsightly and uncomfortable manifestations can be generalized to the whole body, but most of the time they can have well-defined locations such as, for example, the scalp, face, skin folds, buttocks in infants, etc. It may therefore be areas of sensitive skin and/or mucous membrane.

Within the meaning of the present invention, the term “cosmetic” means a non-pharmaceutical, non-therapeutic use, which is not intended for the prevention and/or treatment of skin and/or mucous membranes qualified as pathological by a specialist in the field, such as than a dermatologist. It is therefore for use on healthy skin and/or healthy mucous membranes.

The term “healthy skin and/or healthy mucosa” means all or part of an area of skin including the scalp and/or healthy mucosa, in particular human, therefore not showing any infection, scar, disease or skin condition such as candidiasis, impetigo, psoriasis, eczema, acne, ichthyosis, gingivitis or dermatitis (in particular atopic dermatitis) or wounds or wounds or aphthae or ulceration or burns and/or other dermatoses, or aphtoses or inflammation or irritation or alteration of the skin barrier.

Within the meaning of the present invention, the term “skin” means the skin of all or part of the body, in particular human, in particular chosen from among the legs, feet, armpits, hands, thighs, stomach, décolleté, neck , the arms, the torso, the back, the labial mucosa, the face and/or the scalp, advantageously the neckline and/or the face, even advantageously the face.

Within the meaning of the present invention, the term “mucosa(s)” means the ocular mucosa, the vaginal mucosa, the uro-genital mucosa and/or the oral mucosa, in particular the labial buccal mucosa and/or the gingival mucosa, preferentially , the ocular and/or oral mucosa, and even more preferentially, the gingival, labial and/or ocular mucosa, even more preferentially the gingival mucosa.

Within the meaning of the present invention, the term “cosmetic care and/or treatment of sensitive skin and/or mucous membranes” means the fact of increasing the well-being of the skin so as to reduce the perception of unpleasant and/or uncomfortable manifestations of the skin sensitive, in particular to make them less sensitive, for example by increasing the quantity of oxytocin compared to sensitive skin and/or mucous membrane not treated with the sacran according to the invention, in particular as described in example 2.

The sacran according to the invention is topically and/or orally acceptable. Within the meaning of the present invention, the term "topically acceptable" means an ingredient suitable for topical application, non-toxic, non-irritating to the skin and/or mucous membranes, which does not induce an allergic response and which does not is not chemically unstable.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "orally acceptable" means an ingredient suitable for oral administration, non-toxic, which does not induce an allergic response and which is not chemically unstable.

Thus advantageously the use of the sacran according to the invention is to increase its well-being and/or to prevent and/or reduce one or more of the unsightly and/or unpleasant and/or uncomfortable manifestations of sensitive skin and/or mucous membranes , advantageously chosen from redness, the sensation of heat or overheating, tension, tingling, tingling and/or tightness, and a mixture of these manifestations. It provides a feeling of comfort and well-being to the skin and/or mucous membranes.

According to a particular mode of the invention, the use of the sacran according to the invention is for the care and/or the cosmetic treatment of sensitive skin and/or mucous membranes, and advantageously to increase its well-being and/or to prevent and/or reduce one or more of the unsightly and/or unpleasant and/or uncomfortable manifestations of sensitive skin and/or mucous membranes, advantageously chosen from redness, the sensation of heat or heating, tension, tingling, tingling and / or tightness and a mixture of these manifestations, and is characterized in that the sacran allows the quantity of oxytocin to be increased.

Within the meaning of the present invention, the term "increase well-being" means increasing the quantity of hormones involved in neuronal connection, for example oxytocin, beta-endorphins, serotonin and/or dopamine. Advantageously, it is the well-being felt at the cutaneous or mucosal level.

Within the meaning of the present invention, the term "increase the quantity of oxytocin" means increasing the quantity of oxytocin released by the cells which secrete it, in particular the skin and/or the mucous membrane, and still preferentially the keratinocytes and/or the fibroblasts, in particular in the case of a topical application and/or in the saliva in the case of an oral application. The quantity of oxytocin released by the cells which secrete it can be measured according to example 2.

In another advantageous embodiment, the sacran is applied topically, advantageously to specific parts and/or areas of the body chosen from among the legs, feet, armpits, hands, neck, décolleté, stomach, arms, thighs, hips, buttocks, waist, crotch, groin, torso, back, lip mucosa, face and/or scalp and/or oral mucosa and/or gingival, in particular the areas exposed to sensitizing agents such as make-up, or soap, such as the face and in particular the eyes, around the lips and/or to polluting agents, to temperature variations and/or the areas expression of emotions, such as the cheeks, the neckline and/or the hands.

Within the meaning of the present invention, the term “topical route” is understood to mean the application of the sacran and/or of the composition and/or of the ingredient according to the invention on the surface of the skin and/or of the mucous membranes, in particular by direct application or by vaporization.

In another advantageous embodiment, the sacran is administered orally, in particular for the purpose of treating the gingival mucosa. Thus, advantageously, the sacran or the cosmetic ingredient comprising it is in the form of a cosmetic composition intended for oral administration, in particular on the gingival mucous membranes, further comprising an appropriate cosmetic vehicle.

Within the meaning of the present invention, the term “cosmetic ingredient(s)” means one or more plant extracts and/or one or more natural or synthetic molecules and/or mixtures thereof intended for a cosmetic application. Cosmetic ingredients are notably defined by the International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients (INCI).

Within the meaning of the present invention, the term “suitable cosmetic vehicle” means that the composition or the components thereof are suitable for use in contact with human skin and/or mucous membranes without toxicity, incompatibility, instability, undue allergic response, or their equivalents.

In particular, the present use is not for moisturizing the skin and/or the mucous membranes or for the treatment of inflammations, in particular linked to allergies.

Sacran is a natural polysaccharide extracted from Aphanothece sacrum . In an advantageous embodiment, the sacran is as described in patent US8350024 and is marketed by Daito Kasei under the trade name Sacran.

In particular, it is a polysaccharide containing more than ten types of monosaccharides including, but not limited to, glucose, galactose, xylose and fucose moieties. Sulfated muramic acid is a unique monosaccharide contained in the sacran.

Preferably, the sacran has one, preferably at least two, more preferably at least three, even more preferably four of the following properties:
(i) A molecular weight of 15 million Daltons (Da) to 25 million Da, preferably 16 to 20 million Da;
(ii) it comprises from 5% to 20%, preferably 8% to 14%, more preferably from 9% to 12%, of sulphate groups, by weight of the polysaccharide, and from 5% to 20%, preferably from 9 % to 15%, more preferably from 11% to 13%, of carboxyl groups, by weight of the polysaccharide;
(iii) it comprises at least one residue of muramic acid, preferably a residue of sulphated muramic acid; and or
(iv) it comprises at least 7, preferably at least 9, more preferably at least 10, different monosaccharide groups.

The sacran according to the invention may be obtained by various extraction methods known to those skilled in the art, advantageously chosen from maceration, with or without agitation, hot decoction, grinding, including ultrasonic or using a blender.

The extraction process is advantageously that described in patent US8350024.

Preferably, the sacran is obtained according to example 1.

In a particular embodiment of the invention, the sacran obtained will be sterilized.

The sacran according to the invention can be used in the form of a cosmetic ingredient intended to be incorporated into a cosmetic composition, and further comprising an appropriate cosmetic vehicle.

In this case, the sacran according to the invention is in another embodiment preferentially dissolved in and/or diluted in a particularly polar solvent, such as water and in particular as described in Example 4.

Advantageously, when the ingredient is in liquid form like that described in Example 4, the sacran according to the invention is present in the ingredient in a content of between 0.001 and 10% by weight of dry matter relative to the total weight of the ingredient, advantageously between 0.01 and 1% by weight.

The sacran according to the invention, optionally in the form of a cosmetic ingredient, can also be in the form of a cosmetic composition, advantageously intended for administration by topical route or by oral route, in particular by topical route, preferentially cutaneous, further comprising a suitable cosmetic vehicle.

The cosmetic ingredient in liquid form and in particular that of Example 4, can be used in a cosmetic composition preferably at a content by weight of dry matter relative to the total weight of the composition of between 0.001 and 10%, advantageously between 0 .01 and 1%, in particular between 0.01 and 0.1%.

In one embodiment of the invention, the sacran will be included in the cosmetic composition in a content of between 0.0001% and 20% by weight of dry matter relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably between 0.001% and 10 % in weight.

The compositions according to the invention may contain any suitable solvent and/or any suitable vehicle and/or any suitable excipient, optionally in combination with other compounds of interest. They may in particular contain an acceptable cosmetic excipient chosen from surfactants, preservatives, buffering agents, swelling agents, chelating agents, biocidal agents, denaturants, opacifying agents, pH adjusters, reducing agents, stabilizers, emulsifiers, thickeners, gelling agents, film-forming polymers, solvents, fillers, bactericides, odor absorbers, matting agents, conditioning agents, texture agents, shine agents, pigments, dyes, perfumes and chemical or mineral sunscreens, trace elements, essential oils, sweeteners, taste modifiers. These combinations are also covered by the present invention. The CTFA Cosmetic Ingredient Handbook, Second Edition (1992) describes various cosmetic and pharmaceutical ingredients commonly used in the cosmetics and pharmaceutical industry, which are in particular suitable for oral administration and/or for topical use.

Advantageously, the excipient(s) are chosen from the group comprising polyglycerols, esters, polymers and cellulose derivatives, lanolin derivatives, phospholipids, lactoferrins, lactoperoxidases, sucrose-based stabilizers, vitamin E and its derivatives, xanthan gums, natural and synthetic waxes, vegetable oils, triglycerides, unsaponifiables, phytosterols, silicones, protein hydrolysates, betaines, aminoxides, plant extracts, sucrose esters , titanium dioxides, glycines, and parabens, and more preferably from the group consisting of steareth-2, steareth-21, glycol-15 stearyl ether, cetearyl alcohol, phenoxyethanol, methylparaben, ethylparaben, propylparaben, butylparaben, butylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, natural tocopherols, glycerin, dihydroxycetyl sodium phosphate, isopropyl hydroxycetyl ether, g lycol stearate, triisononanoine, octyl cocoate, polyacrylamide, isoparaffin, laureth-7, a carbomer, propylene glycol, hexylene glycol, glycerol, bisabolol, a dimethicone, sodium hydroxide, PEG 30-dipolyhydroxysterate, capric/caprylic triglycerides, cetearyl octanoate, dibutyl adipate, grapeseed oil, jojoba oil, magnesium sulfate, EDTA, cyclomethicone, xanthan gum , citric acid, sodium lauryl sulphate, waxes and mineral oils, isostearyl isostearate, propylene glycol dipelargonate, propylene glycol isostearate, PEG 8, beeswax, glycerides of hydrogenated palm heart oil, lanolin oil, sesame oil, cetyl lactate, lanolin alcohol, castor oil, titanium dioxide, lactose, sucrose, low density polyethylene, an isotonic saline solution, and mixtures thereof.

The cosmetic composition or the sacran according to the invention, optionally in the form of a cosmetic ingredient, can be in any galenic form conventionally used for topical application or oral administration, in particular topical such as liquid or solid forms or even in the form of liquid under pressure. They may in particular be formulated in the form of an aqueous or oily solution, a cream or an aqueous gel or an oily gel, in particular in a jar or in a tube, in particular a shower gel, a shampoo, a milk, an emulsion, a hydrogel, a microemulsion or a nanoemulsion, in particular oil-in-water or water-in-oil or multiple or silicone-based, a serum, a lotion, in particular in a glass or plastic bottle or in a dispenser bottle or in an aerosol, an ampoule, a liquid soap, a paste, a dermatological bar, an ointment, a mousse, an aerosol, a mask, a patch, an anhydrous product, preferably liquid, pasty or solid, for example in the form of a stick, in particular in a stick or in powders , especially makeup. In particular, the composition is in the form of a serum, a lotion, a cream, a milk, an ointment, a paste, a mousse, an emulsion, a a hydrogel, a shower gel, an aerosol, a mask, a stick, a patch, or makeup powders, advantageously a cream or a lotion.

In the case of oral administration, the cosmetic composition or the sacran according to the invention, optionally in the form of a cosmetic ingredient, can be in the form of a toothpaste, a dental paste, a bath mouthwash, a lotion, an aerosol, a gel, a suckable tablet, an orodispersible tablet, a chewing gum or a mucoadhesive composition.

The cosmetic composition may also comprise other active ingredients for the treatment of the sensitive skin and/or mucous membranes inducing a complementary or synergistic effect with the sacran according to the invention, chosen for example from:
- a combination of sodium hyaluronate, pullulan and sodium alginate marketed in particular in a formulation containing serine, trehalose, urea and glycerin under the name PatcH2O™ by the applicant;
- cosmetic agents intended for the care of sensitive skin such as a plant extract of Cestrum latifolium as described in application WO2009/112590, for example marketed under the name Symbiocell ™ by the applicant, a butter extracted from the fruit of the tree Irvingia gabonensis marketed under the name Irwinol™ by the applicant, a root extract of Eperua falcata marketed under the name Eperuline™, an N-acetyl-L-Tyrosyl-L-Prolyl-L-Phenylalanyl-L-Phenylalaninamide peptide ( INCI: acetyl tetrapeptide 15) sold under the name Skinasensyl™ by the Applicant.

The cosmetic composition may also contain one or more other ingredients active on the cutaneous and/or mucosal microbial flora and/or active on the barrier function of the skin, in particular moisturizing and/or soothing active ingredients, including an oligosaccharide obtained by enzymatic synthesis marketed by Solabia under the name BioEcolia™ or a complex of alpha-gluco-oligosaccharides marketed by the same company under the name Ecoskin™, an extract of Alisma plantago-aquatica, an extract of Argania spinosa (Lipofructyl™ Argan), a mixture of ceramides (Sphingoceryl™ VEG), purifying extracts of Boldo (Betapur™), products based on inulin or fructo-oligosaccharides, extracts of bifidobacteria or even an extract of Orthosiphon stamineus to fight against oily skin (MAT-XS™ Bright), a natural extract of honey marketed by the plaintiff under the name Melhydran™ for its moisturizing property, a flaxseed extract marketed under the name Oligolin™ by the applicant, a yeast extract modified by biotechnology and marketed by the applicant under the name Relipidium™, a root extract of Pueraria lobata marketed under the name Inhipase™ by the applicant, a derivative of beta-glucan derived from yeast baker's milk marketed by Mibelle under the name CM-Glucan Forte™ and/or an extract of Mirabilis jalapa marketed under the name Pacifeel™ by Sederma.

In a particularly advantageous manner, the sacran according to the invention is used in combination with hyaluronate, advantageously sodium hyaluronate, pullulan and alginate, advantageously sodium alginate, in particular a combination as described in patent WO2014027163 by the Applicant with a weight ratio for pullulan/sodium hyaluronate/sodium alginate in the range 1/0.001/0.001 to 1/100/100, again advantageously in the range 1/0, 1/0, 1 to 1/ 10/10, even more preferably in the range 1/1/1 to 1/2/5. According to a preferred mode, this ratio is approximately 1/1/2. According to a preferred method, the sacran is combined with pullulan/sodium hyaluronate/sodium alginate polymers in a 1/1/2 ratio, in particular as described in Example 4.

Advantageously, the invention also relates to a method of cosmetic treatment for the care and/or treatment of sensitive skin and/or mucous membranes in order to increase its well-being and/or to prevent and/or reduce one or more unsightly and/or unpleasant and/or uncomfortable manifestations, in particular chosen from redness, the feeling of heat or overheating, tension, tingling, tingling and/or tightness and a mixture of these manifestations, said skins and/or mucous membranes being healthy skin and/or healthy mucous membranes of an individual who needs/wants it, said method comprising the steps:
-The identification on the individual of an area of sensitive skin and/or mucosa that one wishes to treat and/or for which one wishes to increase well-being and/or prevent and/or reduce one or more of the manifestations unsightly and/or unpleasant and/or uncomfortable, in particular chosen from redness, the sensation of heat or overheating, tension, tingling, tingling and/or tightness and a mixture of these manifestations, said skin and/ or mucous membranes being healthy skin and/or healthy mucous membranes, and
-Topical application to this skin area or oral administration of a cosmetic composition containing the sacran according to the invention in an effective amount for the care and/or treatment of sensitive skin and/or mucous membranes to prevent and/ or reduce its unsightly manifestations, in particular chosen from redness, the sensation of heat or overheating, tension, tingling, tingling and/or tightness and a mixture of these manifestations, the said skins and/or mucous membranes being healthy skin and/or healthy mucous membranes.

Finally, the present invention relates to a cosmetic care process characterized in that it comprises the application to at least one zone concerned of healthy skin and/or healthy mucous membrane, of the face and/or of the body, preferably chosen from the legs , feet, armpits, hands, neck, décolleté, stomach, arms, thighs, hips, buttocks, waist, crotch, groin, torso, back, mucous membrane labial, the face and/or the scalp and/or the oral and/or gingival mucosa, in particular the areas exposed to sensitizing agents such as make-up, or soap, such as for example the face and in particular the eyes, around of the lips and/or to polluting agents, to variations in temperature and/or the zones where emotions are expressed, such as for example the cheeks, the neckline and/or the hands, and/or the oral administration of the sacran according to the present invention or in the form of a cosmetic ingredient according to the invention or of a cosmetic composition comprising it according to the invention, in particular as an active agent, for the care and/or cosmetic treatment of sensitive skin and/or mucous membranes, and advantageously for increasing its well-being and/or for prevent and/or reduce one or more of the unsightly and/or unpleasant and/or uncomfortable manifestations of sensitive skin and/or mucous membranes, preferably chosen from redness, the sensation of heat or overheating, tension, tingling, tingling and/or tightness and a mixture of these manifestations, and advantageously to increase the quantity of oxytocin.

Other aims, characteristics and advantages of the invention will appear clearly to those skilled in the art following reading of the explanatory description which refers to examples which are given solely by way of illustration and which cannot in no way limit the scope of the invention.

The examples form an integral part of the present invention and any feature appearing new with respect to any state of the prior art from the description taken as a whole, including the examples, forms an integral part of the invention in its function and in its generality.

Thus, each example is general in scope.

On the other hand, in the examples, and unless otherwise indicated, the temperature is expressed in degrees Celsius and the pressure is atmospheric pressure.
Example 1: Preparation of sacral according to the invention

A quantity of 1 kg of total Aphanothece sacrum was frozen-thawed, then washed with distilled water to remove the aqueous pigment (phycobilin). It was then immersed and stirred in a water bath filled with a large amount of dilute hydrochloric acid (pH 3) at 60°C for 24 h. After being washed with 50% (v/v) isopropanol overnight, a polysaccharide was collected by filtration and air-dried at 60°C. The sacran was extracted using a solution of hydroxide of 0.1 M sodium at 70°C with stirring for 3 h.

Then, the polysaccharide solution was adjusted to a pH of 7 to 8 with 0.1 M hydrochloride and filtered through a sterile cotton gauge. The filtrate was slowly poured into absolute isopropanol to precipitate white fibrous materials, which were then redissolved in hot water and reprecipitated 3 times.

Polysaccharide fibers were dried (yield, 0.65 wt% - 0.75 wt% for wet biomaterials and 60 wt% - 70 wt% for dried biomaterials).
Example 2: Evaluation of the effect of the sacran according to the invention on the quantity of oxytocin.
Example 2-a: Evaluation of the effect of the ingredient according to the invention alone in formulation on the quantity of oxytocin.

The product tested is that of Example 1 formulated at 0.075% (w/w) by weight in water. The test was carried out on human skin explants 8 mm in diameter, obtained by surgery on a 41-year-old woman. Amantadine hydrochloride (amantadine hydrochloride) at a concentration of 0.1 µM was used as a positive control.

The skin explants were incubated for 24 hours in the presence of 2 different products, applied at a concentration of 2% (w/w) by weight and dissolved directly in the culture medium.

At the end of the 24-hour incubation, the oxytocin present in the culture medium was quantified using an ELISA assay kit (Arbor Assays, reference K048-H1).

The results are expressed in picogram (pg) of oxytocin content per milliliter (ml) of medium (Mean ± standard deviation).

The statistical analysis between the test and the control was carried out using a Student test (t test).

Control amantadine hydrochloride (amantadine hydrochloride) Product at 2% (w/w) by weight Amount of oxytocin (pg/ml) 91.8 214.6 167.7 Standard deviation 6.4 41.4 4 Percent vs Control 100 233.8 176.2 Significance for control - ** ***

** p < 0.01

*** p < 0.001

The aqueous solution of sacran tested at 2% (w/w) by weight significantly stimulates the synthesis of oxytocin. This demonstrates the effect of the product for treating sensitive skin and for increasing its well-being and/or for preventing and/or reducing one or more of the unsightly and/or unpleasant and/or uncomfortable manifestations of sensitive skin.
Example 2-b: Evaluation of the effect of the sacran formulated with a mixture of polymers on the quantity of oxytocin.

The product tested is that of example 1 formulated at 0.075% (w/w) by weight in a mixture of pullulan at 0.25% (w/w) by weight, sodium alginate at 0.5% ( w/w) by weight, hyaluronic acid at 0.25% (w/w) by weight, glycerin at 17.35% (w/w) by weight, glyceryl polyacrylate at 0.3% (w/ p) by weight and water qsp 100% (w/w) by weight.

The test is carried out in the same way as in example 2-a. The test was carried out at two product concentrations of 0.5% (w/w) by volume and 2% (w/w) by volume.

The results are expressed in pg of oxytocin per ml of medium (mean ± standard deviation).

Statistical analysis between the trial and the control was performed via a One way ANOVA test followed by a Fisher test.

Control amantadine hydrochloride (Amantadine hydrochloride) Product at 0.5% (w/w) by weight Product at 2% (w/w) by weight Amount of oxytocin (pg/ml) 157.3 260 196.3 219.4 Standard deviation 17.7 40 25.3 18.7 Percent vs Control 100 165.3 124.8 139.5 Significance for control - ** * **

The sacran formulated and tested at 0.5% (w/w) by weight and 2% (w/w) by weight significantly and dose-dependently stimulated the amount of oxytocin released by skin explants of respectively approximately 25 % and about 40%. This demonstrates the effect of the sacran for treating sensitive skin and for increasing its well-being and/or for preventing and/or reducing one or more of the unsightly and/or unpleasant and/or uncomfortable manifestations of sensitive skin, in particular improving The well-being.
Example 3: Clinical evaluation of the effect of the sacran according to the invention on the uncomfortable manifestations of sensitive skin.

The clinical test was carried out on 87 Asian volunteers aged 30 to 50 with sensitive skin, i.e. reporting having at least two of the following symptoms every day: itching, burning, tightness.

The study was carried out double-blind and the application of the formulation according to example 5 (containing the sacran) or the same formulation not comprising it (placebo) was randomized. Each formula (placebo or formulation according to example 5 with sacran) was applied twice a day on the half-face and over a period of 2 weeks.

"Consumer" questionnaires were completed online 8 hours after the first application and then 2 weeks of treatment.

These questionnaires allow a subjective evaluation of different parameters. The questions asked were:

After 8 hours (or 2 weeks) following the application of this face cream, would you say:
- That my skin is soothed?
- That my skin is more comfortable?
- That my skin is less sensitive?

Each panelist then responded by giving a score corresponding to a whole number, on a scale of 1 to 5, 1 meaning “totally disagree” and 5 meaning “totally agree”.

The statistical analysis of the results versus placebo corresponding to the formulation according to example 4 without sacran was carried out using the non-parametric Wilcoxon test.

Results: 8 hours after the first application

My skin is Placebo Formulation according to Example 5 Stats vs Placebo Soothed 4.10 4.40 <0.001 More comfortable 3.84 4.24 <0.001 Less sensitive 3.75 3.95 0.013

8 hours after the first application, the volunteers evaluate that the items “my skin is soothed” “my skin is more comfortable “my skin is less sensitive” are significantly better with the formulation according to example 5 comprising the sacran according to the invention than with the placebo formulation.

Results: After 2 weeks of treatment

My skin is Placebo Formulation according to Example 5 Stats vs Placebo Soothed 4.14 4.36 0.007 More comfortable 3.92 4.09 0.042 Less sensitive 3.79 4.03 0.016

After 2 weeks of treatment, the volunteers evaluate that the items "my skin is soothed" "my skin is nourished" "my skin is more comfortable" my skin is less sensitive" are significantly better for the cosmetic composition according to Example 5 comprising sacran than with the placebo formulation.

This demonstrates the effect of the sacran for treating sensitive skin and for increasing its well-being and/or for preventing and/or reducing one or more of the unsightly and/or unpleasant and/or uncomfortable manifestations of sensitive skin.
Example 4: Cosmetic ingredient containing the sacran according to the invention

A cosmetic ingredient having the following weight percent formulation is prepared.

Denomination Quantity in % by weight Water 81.275% Glycerin 17.35% Pentylene Glycol 2.00% sodium alginate 0.50% Caprylyl Glycol 0.50% Glyceryl Polyacrylate 0.30% Sodium Hyaluronate 0.25% Pullulan 0.25% sacran according to example 1 0.075% Example 5: Composition according to the invention in the form of a lotion for the body and/or the face:

Phase Denomination Quantity (% by total weight) Stage A Water qsf 100.00 Disodium EDTA 0.05 Propylene Glycol, Phenoxyethanol, Chlorphenesin, Methylparaben 2.50 Butylene Glycol 5.00 Glycerin, Glyceryl Polyacrylate 10.00 Phase B Dicaprylyl Carbonate 4.00 Propylheptyl Caprylate 4.00 Sodium Polyacrylate 0.70 Stage C Cosmetic ingredients according to example 4 comprising the sacran according to the invention 2.00

The formulation is prepared by the usual methods in the field well known to those skilled in the art, by mixing the 3 phases.
Example 6: Composition according to the invention in the form of a milk for the body and/or the face

A cosmetic product in the form of a milk for the body and/or the face may, for example, have a composition by weight, consisting of the following aqueous and fatty phases, as indicated below.

Fat phase Isostearyl and Diglyceryl Succinate 3.00 Paraffin oil 15.00 Quaternium-18 Hectorite 0.50 Poly(PEG-22/Dodecyl Glycol) 1.00 Aqueous phase Magnesium sulfate 0.80 Butylene glycol 4.00 sacran (according to Ex. 1) 0.2 Distilled water 9.00 Elestab 4112 (Serobiological Laboratories) 0.35 Scent 0.30 Distilled water Qsp 100.00

The process for preparing face and/or body milk essentially consists in bringing the fatty phase to 80°C, in bringing the water in the aqueous phase also to 80°C and in dissolving the preservative therein (Elestab 4112), then pouring the aqueous phase into the fatty phase with turbine stirring and gradually cooling with stirring, then adding thereto, around 20° C., the aqueous sacran solution, then the perfume and, finally, continuing the stirring until complete cooling.
Example 7: Composition according to the invention in the form of a cream for the face

A cosmetic product in the form of a body and/or face cream may, for example, have a composition by weight, made up of the following aqueous and fatty phases, as indicated below.

Fat phase Ceteareth 25 2.00 Ceteareth 6 (et) Stearyl Stearyl Alcohol 1.00 Cetyl alcohol 4.00 Glycerol Stearate 4.00 Petrolatum 5.00 Caprylic/Capric Triglycerides 5.00 Aqueous phase Glycerin 10.00 sacran (prepared according to ex. 1) 0.1 Distilled water 8.50 Elestab 4112 (Serobiological Laboratories) 0.40 Scent 0.30 Distilled water Qsp 100.00

The process for preparing the face cream essentially consists of bringing the fatty phase to 80° C, bringing the aqueous phase also to 80° C and dissolving the Elestab 4112 in it, separately preparing the sacran stock solution, in pouring the fatty phase into the aqueous phase with turbine stirring, then, at around 20° C., in introducing the aqueous solution of sacran therein and finally in continuing the stirring until cooling.

Claims (13)

Cosmetic use of sacran for the care and/or cosmetic treatment of sensitive skin and/or mucous membranes and/or to increase its well-being and/or to prevent and/or reduce one or more of the unsightly and/or unpleasant manifestations and / or uncomfortable sensitive skin and / or mucous membranes, said skin and / or mucous membranes being healthy skin and / or healthy mucous membranes. Cosmetic use according to Claim 1, characterized in that the unsightly and/or unpleasant and/or uncomfortable manifestations of sensitive skin and/or mucous membranes are chosen from redness, the sensation of heat or heating, tension, tingling, tingling and/or pulling and a mixture of these manifestations. Use according to any one of Claims 1 or 2, characterized in that the sacran makes it possible to increase the quantity of oxytocin. Use according to any one of Claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the sacran has one, preferably at least two, more preferably at least three, even more preferably four of the following properties:
(i) A molecular weight of 15 million Daltons (Da) to 25 million Da, preferably 16 to 20 million Da;
(ii) it comprises from 5% to 20%, preferably 8% to 14%, more preferably from 9% to 12%, of sulphate groups, by weight of the polysaccharide, and from 5% to 20%, preferably from 9 % to 15%, more preferably 11% to 13%, of carboxyl groups, by weight of the polysaccharide;
(iii) it comprises at least one residue of muramic acid, preferably a residue of sulphated muramic acid; and or
(iv) it comprises at least 7, preferably at least 9, more preferably at least 10, different monosaccharide groups. Use according to any one of Claims 1 to 4, characterized in that the sacran is applied topically to specific parts of the body chosen from among the legs, feet, armpits, hands, neck, décolleté, belly, arms, thighs, hips, buttocks, waist, crotch, groin, torso, back, lip mucosa, face and/or scalp and/or oral mucosa and / or gingival, in particular the areas exposed to sensitizing agents such as make-up, or soap such as the face and in particular the eyes, around the lips and/or to polluting agents, to temperature variations and/or areas where emotions are expressed, such as the cheeks, décolleté and/or hands. Use according to any one of Claims 1 to 5, characterized in that the sacran is in the form of a cosmetic ingredient intended to be incorporated into a cosmetic composition, and further comprising an appropriate cosmetic vehicle. Use according to Claim 6, characterized in that the sacran is present in the cosmetic ingredient in liquid form in a content of between 0.001 and 10% by weight of dry matter relative to the total weight of the ingredient, advantageously between 0. 01 and 1% by weight. Use according to any one of claims 6 or 7, characterized in that the sacran is used in combination with hyaluronate, in particular sodium hyaluronate, pullulan and alginate, in particular sodium alginate, preferentially in a pullulan/sodium hyaluronate/sodium alginate ratio in a 1/1/2 ratio. Use according to any one of Claims 1 to 8, characterized in that the sacran or the cosmetic ingredient comprising it is in the form of a cosmetic composition advantageously intended for topical administration further comprising an appropriate cosmetic vehicle . Use according to Claim 9, characterized in that the sacran is present in the cosmetic composition in a content of between 0.0001% and 20% by weight of dry matter relative to the total weight of the composition. Use according to any one of Claims 9 or 10, characterized in that the composition is intended for topical administration and is in the form of a serum, a lotion, a cream, a , an ointment, a paste, a mousse, an emulsion, a hydrogel, a shower gel, an aerosol, a mask, a stick, a patch, or make-up powders, advantageously a cream or a lotion. Use according to any one of Claims 1 to 10, characterized in that the sacran or the cosmetic ingredient comprising it is in the form of a cosmetic composition intended for oral administration, in particular on the gingival mucous membranes, further comprising a suitable cosmetic vehicle. Cosmetic care process characterized in that it comprises the topical application to at least one zone concerned of healthy skin and/or healthy mucous membranes, of the face and/or of the body, preferably chosen from the legs, the feet , armpits, hands, neck, décolleté, stomach, arms, thighs, hips, buttocks, waist, crotch, groin, torso, back, lip mucosa, face and/or the scalp and/or the oral and/or gingival mucosa, in particular the areas exposed to sensitizing agents such as make-up, or soap, such as for example the face and in particular the eyes, around the lips and / or polluting agents, temperature variations and / or areas of expression of emotions, such as the cheeks, the neckline and / or the hands, and / or oral administration, of the sacran according to the any of claims 1 or 4, or in the form of a cosmetic ingredient according to any e of claims 6 to 8, or of a cosmetic composition comprising it according to any one of claims 9 to 12, for the care and/or cosmetic treatment of sensitive skin and/or mucous membranes, and advantageously for increasing the -to be and/or to prevent and/or reduce one or more of the unsightly and/or unpleasant and/or uncomfortable manifestations of sensitive skin and/or mucous membranes, preferably chosen from redness, the feeling of heat or overheating, tension , tingling, tingling and / or tightness and a mixture of these manifestations, and advantageously to increase the amount of oxytocin.