FR2844715A1 - Cosmetic, pharmaceutical or food supplement compositions, comprising resveratrol oligomer or derivative, optionally as plant extract, useful for combating disorders of skin or exoskeleton, e.g. acne or dry skin - Google Patents

Abstract

Cosmetic, pharmaceutical or food supplement compositions (A) for preventing and/or combating disorders of the skin, hair, nails, lips, external genitalia and/or buccal mucosa comprising at least one active agent (I) selected from resveratrol oligomers, their glucosides, their esters and plant extracts containing the compounds, is new.

Description

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The present invention relates to cosmetic, pharmaceutical and food supplement compositions intended to prevent and combat affections of the skin and / or of the hair, and / or nails, and / or lips, and / or external genital organs, and / or oral mucosa.

These compositions are characterized in that they contain one or more oligomers of Resveratrol, and more particularly the s-Viniferin, and / or the glucosides and / or the corresponding formic and acetic esters of these oligomers and / or the natural extracts containing them.

A large number of molecules, active ingredients and biological extracts have been used in recent years to fight against various disorders of the skin and its appendages. Enoxolone or hafnia bacterial extracts can be mentioned as anti-inflammatory, green tea flavonoids as anti-oxidants and anti-radicals, ceramides as anti-dehydrating agents, vitamins A, C, E, F as anti-wrinkles .

Stilbenes are another class of biomolecules with a number of properties and are quite common in plants. The best known and most studied is Resveratrol, which is 3,4,5'-hydroxy-stilbene, and found in varying amounts in a large number of plants. A number of these plants also synthesize oligomers of Resveratrol, defined as oligostilbenes when they have a stilbene bond, and stilbenoids when stilbene double bonds are involved in a condensation reaction. The following compounds may be mentioned as examples: sViniferin, Ampelopsin A and C, Amurensins I, J, K, L, and M, Balanocarpol, Betulifol A and B, Canaliculatol, Caraganaphenol A, Cassigerol, Copalliferol A, Distichol, Flexuosol A, Gnetins C, E, I, and K, Heimiol A, Hemsleyanol A, B, C, D, E, and F, Heyneanol A, Hopeaphenol, Isohopeaphenol, Kobophenol A and B, Miyabenol C, Pallidol 5, Parviflorol, Piceid, Stemonoporol, Suffruticosols A and B, Vaticaffinol, Vaticanols A, B and C, Vaticaphenol A, α-Viniferin, Visitifuran A, Vitisin A.

Resveratrol is designated in the literature for many biological activities:
Antioxidant, Resveratrol's antioxidant action on lipoperoxidation JP

Blond et Al, Food Science, 15 (1995), 347-358
Anti-inflammatory, Molecular and cellular effects of Resveratrol Inflammation J.Schwager and Al, MIS 2002, Rennes, France, 22-23 May 2002

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Vaso-relaxant, "Endothelium-dependent vasodilator effects of Resveratrol, a natural phenolic component of red wines, in rat aorta" Orallo and Al, Cardiovascular pharmacology PA-56pp.127 It is also claimed in patents of skincare products as the patent FR 2766176 (Caudalie) which claims esters from C4 Resveratrol or oligomers for their anti-radical, anti-oxidant, vasoprotective. US Patent 08 / 900,795 (Unilever) claims the presence of Resveratrol to prevent the proliferation of keratinocytes and stimulate their differentiation. FR 2777186 (L'Oreal) claims from 0.001 to 10% hydroxyalkylated hydroxystilbenes and derivatives for stimulating collagen synthesis, stimulating the proliferation of fibroblasts, and inhibiting the expression of extracellular matrix proteases and metalloproteinases. L'Oréal claims the same compounds in the same proportions in FR 2777184 for reducing the adhesion of microorganisms on the skin and mucous membranes, and in patent FR 2277183, the increase in desquamation of the skin. and finally in FR 2796278 the inhibition of the glycation of proteins. FR 2778337 (INSERM) claims the polyhydroxy, monomeric or polymeric stilbenes as antagonists of the aryl hydrocarbon receptor ligands. US 60 / 085,821 (Oklahoma Medical Research Foundation) claims Resveratrol and Piceatannol as a myeloperoxidase inhibitor. Patent FR 15098000 (Actichem) describes Resveratrol and its oligomers as inhibitors of the 5-aReductase enzyme.

E-Viniferin is cited in the scientific literature as having a number of biological activities: Anti-bacterial activity (Sultanbawa et al., Phytochemistry; 26; 3; 1987;
802) -Anti-tumoral and hepatoprotective activity (Masayaoshi Ohyama et al., Bioorganic & Medicinal Chemistry Letters; 9; 1999; 3057-3060) -Anti-fungal (Bala AEA et al., Journal of Physiopathology; Jan. 2000, vol 148 , nl, pp 29-32) -Inhibition of growth of A 549 lung cancer cells, and induction of their apoptosis (Sheng-Zhi and Xu-Guang, Acta Academiiae Medicinae Shanghai,
Sept 1998, vol 25, n 5, pp 327-330) -Protection of hepatocytes against CC14 aggression (Oshima Y. et al,
Experimentia; Flight 51; n 1; pp 63-66; 1995)

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Cytotoxic and antimutagenic (Kim HJ et al., Arch Pharm Res, 2002)
Jun; 25 (3): 293-9) S-Viniferin is claimed in patents (already cited) alongside Resveratrol: Caudalie, INSERM and Actichem.

Another oligomer is a-Viniferin which is a quadimer of Resveratrol
It is also known a number of biological properties: - Inhibitor of the cyclooxygenase activity of prostaglandin H2 synthase (Lee-
SeungHo et al., Planta Medica; Flight 64; n03; pp 204-207 (1998)) - Inhibition of Protein Kinase C (Xu-G et al., Acta Pharmaceutica Sinica, vol29, n 11, pp 818-822, 1994) and (Kulanthaivel P. et al., Planta Medica; n 1; pp41-
44, 1995) - Antagonist of the action of 20-hydroxyecdysone (Keckeis-K et al Cellular and
Molecular Life Sciences, Feb. 2000, vol 57, No. 2, pp 333-336) - Inhibition of tyrosinase L-dopa oxidase activity (Kang Bo Seong et al,
Medical Science Research, April 1998, vol 26, No. 4, pp. 235-237) The chemical formula of s-Viniferin is C28H2206 (CAS: 62218-08-0) Variable amounts are found in a large number of plants ( in free form or glucosides), for example in the following plants: - Balanocarpus zeylanicus, Caragana chamlagu, Caragana sinica, Carex fedia, Carex humilis, Carex kobomugi, Carex pendula, Carex pumila Thunb, Cyphostemma crotalarioides, Gnetum hainanense, Gnetum ula, Gnetum venosum, Hopea parviflora, Iris clarkei, Neobalanocarpus heimii, Paeoni lactiflora, Parthenocissus tricuspitada, Shorea disticha, Shorea hemsleyana, Sophora davidii, Sophora leachiana, Sophora nuttaliana, Vatican rassak, Vatica affinis, Vitis amurensis, Vitis betulifolia, Vitis flexuosa, Vitis heyneana , Vitis quinquangularis, Vitis coignetiae,
Vitis vinifera (Vitaceae) It has been found that these oligomers of resveratrol, in particular s-viniferine, and plant extracts containing them, have particular properties with respect to human skin and which have never been described in the literature. nor in patents. These properties are described below and the use in cosmetic, pharmaceutical and dietary supplement compositions of Resveratrol oligomers, and / or their glucosides, and / or their formic or acetic esters having these properties is the subject of the present invention. invention.

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 - Anti-tyrosinase and anti-radical / anti-oxidant activities giving a lightening and whitening property of the skin, also useful as anti-stains - Eutrophic activity, increases the turnover of collagen, elastin, oxatalan fibers, glycoamino -glycans, and therefore increases the thickness, flexibility, elasticity, firmness of the skin.

 - Activities allowing the reduction of white hair and the inhibition of hair graying, of the beard and body hair - Anti-inflammatory activity with application for sensitive skin, irritated, dry and very dry, acne, treatments after - sun, gingivitis, bleeding gums, periodontitis and paradontopathies - Anti-microbial activity with application to the treatment of acne lesions, deodorants, atopic dermatitis, seborrheic dermatitis, dandruff conditions of leather hairy, fungal and all personal hygiene products and intimate.

 - Keratolytic and kératorégulatrice activities with application to the treatment of all squamous conditions, dry skin, very dry and ichthyosic skin, psoriasis, comedones, pre-acne and acne, actinic keratosis.

 - Protective activities against pollution, particularly pollution by nitrogen oxides, tobacco and industrial fumes, dioxins and derivatives, PCBs, pesticides, xenobiotics.

 - Anti-glycation activity: anti-stiffening of keratinized tissues (skin, hair, nails), and therefore an anti-aging activity, especially accelerated aging of the skin, nails and hair of diabetics - UV filtering activities and therefore an application in sunscreen products and day creams.

Example of a plant extract rich in E-Viniferin: extract of vine shoot.

Take for example the vine shoot extract as prepared according to the patent FR2795965, and whose main characteristics are as follows: Beige powder E-Viniferin content: 15% [alpha] -Viniferin content: 0.1 to 1 % Product insoluble in water.

Product soluble in ethoxydiglycol and butylene glycol.

This product is called Viniferol in the following experiment and the following examples.

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Other types of vine shoot extracts may be prepared with a total content of Resveratrol oligomers which may range from 1% to 50% and with a sViniferin content which may range from 1% to 40%.

Another form of vine shoot extract.

In order to make the viniferol water-dispersible and therefore easier to introduce into pharmaceutical and / or dermo-cosmetic compositions, it will be subjected to the following treatment: 20 g of viniferol are dissolved in 20 g of absolute ethyl alcohol.

In addition, 2 g of sodium acrylate (Simugel) are mixed in 58 g of water.

The first mixture is slowly mixed with the second and subjected to conventional lyophilization according to the rules of the art.

A powder is obtained which is easy to disperse in water or in an emulsion.

This powder is called: Viniferol L #.

This product contains 90% Viniferol.

Alternatively, the sodium acrylate can be replaced by a sugar such as inulin.

The cosmetic, pharmaceutical and food supplement compositions of the present invention may be in appropriate form according to the rules of the art in use, in other in the form of liquids, pastes, creams, emulsions, lotions, oils, gels, masks, solids, powders, sprays, aerosols, presented in suitable containers such as flasks, bottles, jars, boxes, ampoules, capsules, pencils, stick holders.

The cosmetic, pharmaceutical and dietary supplement compositions of the present invention may be composed of oil / water or water / oil emulsion, twin-phase emulsion, microemulsion, PIT emulsion, nanoemulsion multiple emulsion water / oil / water or oil / water / oil, pseudoemulsion (dispersion of two immiscible phases by means of gelling agents), aqueous gel, fatty gel, hydroalcoholic gel, fatty phase, suspension, solid or liquid soap, foaming solution, one of the preceding forms containing microcapsules, nano-capsules, liposomes.

The compositions of the present invention in the case of a cosmetic or pharmaceutical application or food supplement may therefore further comprise the cosmetic or pharmaceutical adjuncts or food supplement conventionally used as oily phase components, gelling agents, emulsifiers,

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 electrolytes, humectants, sequestering agents, emollients, moisturizing agents, film-forming agents, insoluble pigments, dyes, sunscreens, active principles or any other ingredient usually used in cosmetology, dermatology and food supplements. a) Oily phase The oily phase of the emulsions of the present invention may contain, for example: hydrocarbon oils such as paraffin or mineral oils such as isohexadecane and isododecane; natural oils such as sunflower oil, evening primrose oil, jojoba oil, hydrogenated castor oil, avocado oil, hydrogenated palm oil; triglycerides such as caprylic / capric triglyceride, caprylic / capric linoleic triglyceride, caprylic / capric succinic triglyceride; silicone oils such as cyclomethicone, dimethicone and dimethiconol; fatty alcohols such as stearic alcohol, cetyl alcohol and hexadecyl alcohol of fatty acids such as stearic acid, palmitic acid of fatty acid esters such as dioctyl succinate, glyceryl dioleate, myristyl myristate and isopropyl myristate waxes such as beeswax, paraffin wax, carnauba wax, ozokerite lanolin and its derivatives (oil, alcohol, waxes); their mixtures. b) Gelling agents The gelling agents which may be used in the composition of the present invention may be chosen from gelling agents known in the art, usable in emulsions and in gels.

The emulsions and the gels can be prepared by using one or a combination of several gelling agents chosen from acceptable gelling agents in pharmaceutical or cosmetic products, preferably dermatological products, of which: polysaccharide gums, for instance modified cellulose derivatives, carrageenan derivatives, derivatives of alginates and guar derivatives polysaccharide gums obtained by fermentation of bacteria such as Xanthan gum, Sclerotium gum and Gellane gum Acrylic polymers such as carbomers, polyacrylates, polymethacrylates and their derivatives

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 quaternized polymers PVP and PVP-derived polymers their mixtures In emulsions or gels comprising the composition of the present invention, the gelling agent or combination of gelling agents is about 0.1 to 30%, and preferably about 0.25 to 25% by weight of the composition. c) Emulsifiers The emulsifiers which can be used in the compositions of the present invention may be chosen from emulsifiers known in the art, usable in oil-in-water or water-in-oil emulsions or multiple emulsions, or lamellar phase emulsions, or microemulsions, or nanoemulsions, or PIT emulsions.

The compositions of the emulsions may be prepared using an emulsifier selected from cosmetically acceptable emulsifiers, including: Sucroesters such as sucrose cocoate and sucrose distearate Sorbitan esters and ethoxylated sorbitan esters such as sorbitan stearate or polysorbate Glycerol esters, ethoxylated glycerol esters and polyglycerols such as glyceryl oleate or PEG-20 glyceryl stearate or polyglyceryl-10-stearate Ethoxylated fatty alcohols such as ceteth-12 or steareth-6 sesquioleates such as sorbitan sesquioleate Silicone oil-based emulsifiers such as silicone polyols Ethoxylated plant sterols; or a mixture of one or more of the emulsifiers mentioned above.

The amount of emulsifiers optionally present in the water-in-oil or oil-in-water composition is preferably about 0.5 to 15% by weight of the composition. The amount of emulsifiers optionally present in the water-in-water-in-water multiple emulsion of the present invention is preferably about 7 to 20% by weight of the composition. d) Other components of the formulation The compositions of the present invention may further comprise one or more other compounds which will be known to those skilled in the art, for example:

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 electrolytes for water-in-oil emulsion stabilization such as sodium chloride or magnesium sulfate, preferably in an amount of from about 0.2 to 4% by weight of the composition; humectants such as glycerin or propylene glycol or PEG or sorbitol, preferably in an amount of from about 1 to 10% by weight of the composition; sequestering agents such as tetrasodium EDTA, preferably in an amount of from about 0.01 to 0.5% by weight of the composition; emollients such as fatty acid ethers or fatty acid esters, preferably in an amount of from about 0.5 to 10% by weight of the composition; moisturizing agents such as hyaluronic acid, NaPCA, preferably in an amount of from about 0.01 to 5% by weight of the composition; film-forming agents to facilitate spreading on the skin surface, such as hydrolysates of oat, wheat, collagen and almond proteins, preferably in an amount of from about 0.1 to 5% by weight of the composition; insoluble pigments such as titanium oxide, rutile titanium oxide, titanium anatase oxide, pyrogenized titanium oxide, micronized titanium oxide, titanium oxide surface-treated with silicones or by amino acids, or by lecithin, or by metal stearates, iron oxide, iron oxide surface-treated with silicones, or by amino acids, or by lecithin or by stearates zinc oxide, micronized zinc oxide, mica coated with titanium oxide, preferably in an amount of from about 0.5 to 5% by weight of the composition, and mixtures thereof. sunscreens such as Octyl Methoxycinnamate, Oxybenzone, Octocrylene, Benzylidene Camphor Sulfonic Acid, Octyl Salicylate, Octyl Triazone, 3-Benzylydene Camphor, Butyl Methoxydibenzoyl Methane. active ingredients intended to enhance the activity of the products in other areas of skincare and its annexes, such as and without being limiting, Vitamins A, C, E, bacterial extracts, ceramide (111,11) or pseudoceramides, peptides such as pyroGlu-Glu-Asp-Ser-GlyOH or Gly-His-Lys or Arg-Gly-Asp-Ser, alpha or beta hydroxy acids such as lactic acid, glycolic acid, salicylic acid.

In all that follows or the above, the percentages are given by weight unless otherwise indicated.

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In the compositions of the present invention, the oligomer content of Resveratrol, and / or their glucosides and / or their formic or acetic esters may be present in the range of 0.001 to 40%. When the Resveratrol oligomers and / or glucosides are contained in a plant extract or a mixture of plant extracts, the compositions of the present invention may contain from 0.01% to 80%.

Other features and advantages of the invention may appear in the examples which follow, and are given purely by way of illustration and in no way limitative.

Experiment 1: Study of the Anti-glycation Potency of S-Viniferin and Viniferol Glycosylation or Glucosylation or Non-Enzymatic Glycation of Conjunctive Proteins with a Glucose Molecule is the first of the reactions leading to the establishment of irreversible cross-links between proteins. This type of bond increases with age and contributes to tissue stiffening, loss of elasticity, and therefore aging.

Glucose bonds with proteins (Maillard reaction) give rise to unstable Schiff ases. These are transformed into products of Amadori, more stable. Then there is interaction between 2 Amadori products with the formation of stable end products, which link the amino acid chains such as collagen chains. Thus cross-linked, the proteins lose their biological functionalities: the support tissues gradually lose their elasticity, and become sclerotic.

This natural phenomenon can be reproduced under laboratory conditions by incubating in vitro, 0.5M glucose with a protein such as bovine serum albumin in phosphate-buffered saline, at 37 ° C for 7 days. Bovine serum albumin can also be incubated with 0.5M ribose for 2 or 4 days. Acidic hydrolysis will result in the release of the 5-hydroxymethylfuraldehyde (HMF) carbohydrate moiety. The amount released is proportional to the binding of the amine to hexose. This level of HMF reflects the intensity of crosslinking of albumin during the experiment. The presence of products in the incubation medium makes it possible to check their possible glycemic control by measuring the degree of inhibition of the glycation reaction of the glucose-serum albumin solution. results: 0.5M glucose, 7 days of incubation s-Viniferin at 0. 01% inhibits glycation to 22% and 48% to 0.05%.

Viniferol at 0. 05% inhibits at 27% and at 55% for 0.1%.

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We therefore see that e-Viniferin and Viniferol have a good anti-glycation activity at low concentrations.

Experience 2.

Study of the specific anti-microbial power of # - Viniferin and Viniferol.

A microbial test slurry is added to a prepared sample of the product under test. The mixture is maintained at a temperature of 20 ° C. At defined contact times selected from the following: 1 hour, 2 hours, 6 hours, an aliquot is removed; the antimicrobial activity in this sample is immediately neutralized or suppressed by a validated method. The enumeration of the surviving microorganisms in each sample is performed, and the reduction in the number of viable cells is calculated.

The following strains have been studied which are particularly involved in skin disorders:
Propionibacterium acnes, Gram + bacterium, IP 53117T., Main bacteria involved in acne Staphylococcus aureus, Gram + bacterium, responsible for secondary infections in certain atopic dermatitis Staphylococcus epidermidis, Gram + bacterium, IP 8155T, involved in the production of unpleasant body odors
Malassezia furfur, (Pityrosporum ovale), yeast, CBS 1878. responsible for the formation of dandruff on the scalp and, on the other hand, involved in seborrheic dermatitis.

Results.

The results are given in number of log reduction of the number of microorganisms that are found after the indicated contact time, relative to the number of microorganisms of departure.

<Tb>
<Tb>

# - <SEP># - <SEP> s- <SEP> Viniferol <SEP> Viniferol <SEP> Viniferol
<tb> Viniferin <SEP> Viniferin <SEP> Viniferin <SEP> 2% <SEP> 1 <SEP> 2% <SEP> 2 <SEP> 2% <SEP> 6 <SEP>
<tb> 0.5% <SEP> 1 <SEP> 0.5% <SEP> 2 <SEP> 0.5% <SEP> 6 <SEP> hour <SEP> hours <SEP> hours
<tb> hour <SEP> hours <SEP> hours
<tb> Propioni <SEP> ba <SEP> 3 <SEP> Log <SEP> 4 <SEP> Log <SEP> 5 <SEP> log <SEP> 4 <SEP> Log <SEP> 4 <SEP> Log <SEP > 5 <SEP> Log <SEP>
<tb> Staphylococcus <SEP> 2 <SEP> Log <SEP> 2 <SEP> Log <SEP> 3 <SEP> Log <SEP> 3 <SEP> Log <SEP> 3 <SEP> Log <SEP> 4 <SEP > Log
<tb> aureus
<tb> Staphylococcus <SEP> ep <SEP> 3 <SEP> Log <SEP> 3 <SEP> Log <SEP> 4 <SEP> Log <SEP> 4 <SEP> Log <SEP> 4 <SEP> Log <SEP > 6 <SEP> Log
<Tb>

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<Tb>
<tb> Malassezia <SEP> fur. <SEP> 2 <SEP> Log <SEP> 2 <SEP> Log <SEP> 4 <SEP> Log <SEP> 3 <SEP> Log <SEP> 3 <SEP> Log <SEP> 4 <SEP> Log
<Tb>
It can thus be seen that s-Viniferin and Viniferol have an interesting anti-microbial activity with respect to the three specified microorganisms.

Experience 3.

Study of the keratolytic power of # - Viniferin and Viniferol.

The human epidermis, which represents the last protection of the body, consists of several layers of cells called keratinocytes, which evolve from the first layer of cells, called the basal layer. This basal layer contains stem cells that ensure the renewal of the epidermis. After multiplication, the basal keratinocytes differentiate as they progress to the upper layers, eventually forming the corneocytes, very flat, coreless cells, loaded with keratin and a natural hydration factor, surrounded by a lipid cement, mainly formed from ceramides. Corneocytes form the stratum corneum, which is the ultimate barrier of the skin, responsible for protecting the body against the penetration of foreign bodies (chemicals and microorganisms), also responsible for regulating water transfers between the body and the atmosphere. Corneocytes are progressively eliminated, individually or in small packages, mostly invisible: harmonious desquamation. This loss of surface is naturally compensated by the migration and differentiation of cells from the basal layer to the stratum corneum.

In difficult climatic and / or pathological conditions (especially during aging), desquamation can become abnormal and occur in larger or smaller packets and visible. At the same time, the renewal is slowed down and the hydration of the stratum corneum decreases: it is dry, very dry or ichthyotic skin. One way to revive normal physiological processes is to remove some of the supernumerary dander, either mechanically, enzymatically, or chemically.

Cells that still have a nucleus are then in contact with the air and this boosts basic physiological processes such as basal cell multiplication, cell differentiation and ceramide synthesis.

Alphahydroxyacids and betahydroxyacids as well as certain enzymes are known to cause this keratolysis.

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The inventor has discovered that, surprisingly, s-Viniferin and Viniferol are also endowed with this property. The following experience shows it.

To follow the desquamation rate of the skin, following the method of Pr. Pierrard, it is stained with a 10% solution of dihydroxyacetone (DHA). After a few hours, the skin takes on a brown-beige color according to the nature of the skin: it is indeed a Maillard reaction of DHA with the amino acids constituting the keratin of the stratum corneum. The color of the skin can be measured with a colorimeter expressing the results in L, a, b coordinates. We will particularly follow the value of a, which according to Prof. Pierrard, best represents the speed of desquamation. On each subject, several areas are colored inside the forearms, and the color measured after 24 hours.

An area will not be treated with any product and will reflect natural desquamation. The other zones will be treated by the products to be tested and it will be possible to check whether the decrease of a is faster or not than that of the untreated zone.

The following oil / water cream is prepared: The fatty phase consists of: Dimethicone Copolyol & Caprylic / Capric Triglycerides 3 g Isodecyl Neopentanoate 5g Polyisobutene Hydrogenated 5g Caprylic / Capric Triglycerides 5g Jojoba Oil 5g Cetyl Alcohol 1g Stearic Acid 1g Beeswax 1g Glycerol Stearate 0.5g Silicone Oil (Dimethicone) 2g
This fatty phase is heated to 70 ° C. and well homogenized.

In addition, the following aqueous phase is prepared: Purified water Q.S.100g Tetrasodium EDTA 0.05g Glycerin 3 g Carbomer 0.25g Xanthane gum 0.2g Biosaccharide Gum-1 5g

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 Polyethylene Glycol 400 2g Methyl Paraben 0.25g Propyl Paraben 0.15g 10% Soda 0.5g All the ingredients of the aqueous phase are dissolved in water and the whole is heated to 70 C.

The fatty phase, homogeneous and heated to 70 C, is poured slowly on the aqueous phase brought to the same temperature, with vigorous stirring. Stirring is maintained for 10 minutes after the end of the introduction of the fat phase. The oil-in-water emulsion is formed.

Then, the emulsion is cooled with moderate stirring.

When the temperature reaches 40 ° C., moderate stirring is added: Perfume 0.35 g After homogenization, the emulsion is cooled to 30 ° C. with slow stirring.

We obtain a creamy white cream, very fresh touch. This emulsion constitutes the placebo.

We also prepare the same cream by adding before the perfume - 0.5g of s-Viniferine, solubilized in 5 g of butylene glycol Finally, we prepare a third cream by adding instead of E-Viniferin: - 2.5g of Viniferol (containing at least 10% of s-Viniferin) solubilized in 10 g of butylene glycol On about ten subjects with fair skin (phototype II), is applied on 3 zones of 10 cm2 on each forearm, a solution of DHA at 10 %.

After 24 hours, the color of each zone is measured and the factor a is retained.

Zone 1 of each forearm is the control zone of natural desquamation. No product will be applied during the test period. Zones 2 of each forearm receive 2 times a day, an application of 2 mg / cm 2 of placebo cream. Finally, the zones 3 receive one 0.5g cream of E-Viniferine, the other the cream with 2.5g of vine shoot extract, both at the dose of 2mg / cm2.2 times per day. The color of each area is measured every day.

Results.

For control areas and areas treated with placebo cream, the return to the original color is between 7 and 9 days.

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For areas treated with s-Viniferin cream and vine shoot extract, the return to the original color is between 4 and 6 days, showing the keratolytic potency of s-Viniferin and Viniférol.

Other features and advantages of the invention may appear in the examples which follow, and are given purely by way of illustration and in no way limitative.

Example 1: Day cream (pseudo-emulsion oil in water) for sensitive skin.

The following aqueous phase is prepared:

<Tb>
<tb> Name <SEP> Weight
<tb> Beeswax <SEP> 2 <SEP> g
<tb> Isohexadecane <SEP> 4 <SEP> g
<tb> Dioctyl <SEP> Succinate <SEP> 2 <SEP> g
<tb> Isododecane <SEP> 3.5 <SEP> g
<tb> Glyceryl <SEP> Dioleate <SEP> 3 <SEP> g
<tb> Cetyl <SEP> Alcohol <SEP> 2 <SEP>, 5g <SEP>
<tb> Stearic <SEP> acid <SEP> 1g
<Tb>
The following aqueous phase is then prepared:

<Tb>
<tb> Name <SEP> Weight
<tb> Sclerotium <SEP> Gum <SEP> 0.35 <SEP> g <SEP>
<tb> Xanthan <SEP> Gum <SEP> 0. <SEP> 35 <SEP> g
<tb> Cetyl <SEP> Hydroxyethylcellulose <SEP> 0. <SEP> 35 <SEP> g
<tb> Glycerin <SEP> 5 <SEP> g
<tb> Oxtoxyglycerin <SEP> 1 <SEP> g
<tb> Nylon-12 <SEP> 2 <SEP> g
<tb> Sodium <SEP> polyacrylate <SEP> / <SEP> glycerin <SEP> / <SEP> ethoxydiglycol <SEP> caprylyl <SEP> 15 <SEP> g <SEP>
<tb> glycol <SEP> / <SEP> water <SEP>
<tb> Propylene <SEP> Glycol <SEP> 3 <SEP> g
<tb> Demineralized <SEP> water <SEP> qsp <SEP> 100 <SEP> g
<Tb>
The gelling agents "Sclerotium gum, Xanthan gum and Cetyl Hydroxyethylcellulose" are heated at 40 ° C. in 30 ml of water with slow mechanical stirring to obtain a translucent gel. Moreover, the other half of the aqueous phase containing the glycerine and the oily phase are heated to 80 C.

The aqueous phases and the oily phase were then mixed at 80 ° C. with high stirring. The temperature is maintained at 80 ° C. for 15 minutes and the emulsion is cooled

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 up to 60 C. At this temperature, sodium polyacrylate is introduced into the emulsion.

The other ingredients, octoxyglycerin, and nylon-12 are added at 30 C.

The following mixture is then added: Viniferol 5g Butylene Glycol 10g The emulsification is continued until the cream is completely homogeneous.

This gives a very white pseudo-emulsion, very fresh on application, and is a day cream anti-inflammatory and desensitizing perfect for sensitive skin.

Example 2. Keratolytic facial skincare cream for dry and very dry skin.

The following fatty phase is prepared: Arachidyl Alcohol & Behenyl Alcohol & Arachidyl Glucoside 4g Jojoba Oil 4g Caprylic / Capric Triglycerides 4g Jojoba Esters 1g Polyisobutene Hydrogenated 4g Isocetyl Stearate 4g Cetyl ricinoleate 4g Shea Butter 1g Silicone Oil (Phenyl Trimethicone) 5g Silicone oil (Dimethicone) 2g Dipentaerythrityl Hexacaprylate / Hexacaprate 3g This mixture is brought to 70 C and well homogenized.

In addition, the following aqueous phase is prepared: Demineralized water Q.S.100g Tetrasodium EDTA 0.05g Sorbitol 3g Glycerin 4g Glyceryl Polymethacrylate / Propylene Glycol 5g Cellulose 2g Silicon beads coated with metal oxides 1g Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate Copolymer & Isohexadecane & Polysorbate 80 1.25g

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 Sodium hyaluronate O.lg All the ingredients of the aqueous phase are dissolved in water and the whole is brought to 70 C.

The fatty phase, homogeneous and heated to 70 C, is poured slowly on the aqueous phase brought to the same temperature, with vigorous stirring. Stirring is maintained for 10 minutes after the end of the introduction of the fat phase. The oil-in-water emulsion is formed.

Then, the emulsion is cooled with moderate stirring.

When the temperature reaches 40 ° C., it is added successively with moderate stirring: Viniferol L # 3g Preservatives: 0.15g Perfume: 0. 45g After homogenization, the emulsion is cooled to 30 ° C. with slow stirring.

This gives a white emulsion of pleasant consistency, keratolytic activity, suitable for dry and very dry skin.

Example 3. Anti-pollution oil / water facial care cream.

The fat phase consists of: Dimethicone Copolyol & Caprylic / Capric Triglycerides 3g Isodecyl Neopentanoate 5g Polyisobutene Hydrogenated 5g Caprylic / Capric Triglycerides 5g Jojoba Oil 5g Cetyl Alcohol 1g Stearic Acid 1g Beeswax 1g Glycerol Stearate 0.5g Silicone Oil ( Dimethicone) 2g This fatty phase is heated to 70 C and well homogenized.

In addition, the following aqueous phase is prepared: purified water Q.S.lOOg Tetrasodium EDTA 0.05g Glycerin 3g Sorbitol 2g

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 Carbomer 0.25g Xanthan Gum 0.2g Biosaccharide Gum-1 0 5g Polyethylene Glycol 400 2g Methyl Paraben 0.25g Propyl Paraben 0.15g 10% Soda 0.5g All ingredients of the aqueous phase are dissolved in water and the whole is worn at 70 C.

The fatty phase, homogeneous and heated to 70 C, is poured slowly on the aqueous phase brought to the same temperature, with vigorous stirring. Stirring is maintained for 10 minutes after the end of the introduction of the fat phase. The oil-in-water emulsion is formed.

Then, the emulsion is cooled with moderate agitation.

When the temperature reaches 40 ° C., the following mixture is added with moderate stirring: Caragana sinaca extract 8 g Butylene Glycol 12 g Then: Fragrance: 0.35 g After homogenization, the emulsion is cooled to 30 ° C. with slow stirring.

We obtain a creamy white cream with a very fresh touch with anti-pollution activity.

Example 4. ~ Twin phase oil / water cream, anti-glycation for body care.

Fat phase consists of: Cetearyl Alcohol & Cetearyl Glucoside 6g Octyl Stearate 2g Beeswax 1.5g Propylene Glycol Dicaprylate / Dicaprate @ 2.5g Jojoba Oil 4g Shea Butter 4g Silicone Oil (Dimethicone) 2g This fat phase is heated at 80 C and well homogenized.

In addition, the following aqueous phase is prepared: purified water O.S.100g

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 Tetrasodium EDTA 0.5g Glyceryl Polymethacrylate & Propylene Glycol 10g Polyethylene Glycol 400 2g Methyl Paraben 0.25g Propyl Paraben 0.15g O-Cymen-5-ol 0.1g All ingredients of the aqueous phase are dissolved in water and the whole is brought to 80 C.

The fatty phase, homogeneous and heated to 80 C, is poured slowly on the aqueous phase brought to the same temperature, with vigorous stirring. Stirring is maintained for 10 minutes after the end of the introduction of the fat phase. The oil-in-water emulsion is formed.

Then, the emulsion is cooled with moderate stirring.

When the temperature reaches 40 ° C., the following mixture is added with moderate stirring: # -Verinine pure 0.2 g Butylene Glycol 2 g Scent: 0.35% After homogenization, the emulsion is cooled to 30 ° C. with slow stirring.

A very creamy white cream with lamellar phases is obtained which can facilitate the penetration of the active principles and prolonged hydration. It is perfect for body care and has a good anti-glycation activity.

Example 5: Hair care gel to reduce white hair.

The following gel is prepared: Deionized water 65.1 g Carbomer 0.3 g Sodium hydroxide 0.15 g The following solution is added: PEG-400 2 g Methyl paraben 0.25 g Biosol 0.1 g The following solution is prepared add to the previous gel: Alcoholic alcohol perfume 20g Viniférol L # 2g

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 Finally, the following ingredients are added: Polysilicone-3 10g L-Palmitoyl Carnitine 0.1g Thus, an excellent gel for the daily treatment of hair, beard, eyelashes, eyebrows and any other hair having a tendency to whiten is obtained.

Example 6 Dental Care Paste The following ingredients are kneaded together: Alumina 40g Xanthan Gum 1g Water Q.S. 100g Glycerin 20g s-Viniferin pentaacetate 3g Example 7: Lip care product with eutrophic activity.

The following components are melted at 80 ° C: white beeswax 8g Ozokerite 6g Capercitic / Caprylic Triglycerides 21g Carnauba Wax 5g Candelilla Wax 7g Cetyl Alcohol 10g Ricin Oil 34.49g Viniferol 5g Tocopheryl Acetate 0.5g Pearlescent Pigment Mica / Titanium dioxide 2g Aluminum lacquer dye CI 15.985 O, Olg Aluminum lacquer dye CI 45410 0.5 Natural aroma 0.5g The melt is then poured into suitable molds (to form a stick shape ), cooled then demolded. Useful sticks are obtained for the treatment of the lips and the contour of the lips.

Example 9: Cream water / lightening oil for the hands and face.

The fatty phase consists of: Cetyl Dimethicone Copolyol 3g

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Neopentyl Glycol Diheptanoate 5g Polyisobutene Hydrogenated 1.5g Caprylic / Capric Triglycerides 1.5g Jojoba Oil 1.5g Dimethiconol Behenate 1.5g Cyclomethicone & Dimethicone Crosspolyler 10g
This fatty phase is heated to 60 C and well homogenized.

In addition, the following aqueous phase is prepared: Purified water QS100g Sodium chloride 0.5g Glycerin 2g Sorbitol 2g Polyethylene Glycol 400 2g Methyl Paraben 0. 25g Propyl Paraben 0.15g All the ingredients of the aqueous phase are dissolved in water and dissolved in water. set is brought to 60 C.

The fatty phase, homogeneous and heated to 60 C, is poured slowly on the aqueous phase brought to the same temperature, with vigorous stirring. Stirring is maintained for 10 minutes after the end of the introduction of the fat phase. The water-in-oil emulsion is formed.

Then, the emulsion is cooled with moderate stirring.

When the temperature reaches 40 ° C., the following mixture is added with moderate stirring: Sophora davidii extract 15 g Butylene glycol 15 g Then: Fragrance: 0. 35% After homogenization, the emulsion is cooled to 30 ° C. with stirring slow.

We obtain a cream very creamy, lightening for the skin of the hands and face.

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This list of examples is obviously not limiting, and mention may be made of the addition of viniferol, or s-viniferine acetates or esters or glucosides, or of one or more plant extracts containing them to food supplements or dietary products, hair removal and depilatory shaving products, sunscreen products, facial and body make-ups, lip and lip contour makeup, dental products, external skin care and make-up products, make-up and nail care products.

Claims (28)

 1) cosmetic, pharmaceutical and food supplement compositions intended to prevent and / or fight against affections of the skin and / or the hair, and / or the nails, and / or the lips, and / or the external genital organs, and / or oral mucosa, and characterized by that they contain one or more Resveratrol oligomers, in particular s-Viniferin and / or their glucosides, and / or their esters, and / or one or more plant extracts containing them. . 2) Compositions according to claim 1 and characterized in that the oligomer or oligomers, and / or their glucosides and / or their esters are present in the proportion of 0.001% to 40%. 3) Compositions according to claims 1 and 2 and characterized in that the or oligomers of resveratrol are present in the form of acetates. 4) Compositions according to claim 1 and characterized in that they contain a plant extract or a mixture of plant extracts containing one or more resveratrol oligomers and / or their glucosides, and / or their esters. 5) Compositions according to claims 1 and 4, and characterized in that the plant extract or the mixture of plant extracts is present in the proportion of 0. 01% to 80%. 6) Compositions according to claims 1 to 5 characterized by that they contain plant extracts (alone or in admixture) which are selected from the following extracts: - Balanocarpus zeylanicus, Caragana chamlagu, Caragana sinica, Carex fedia, Carex humilis, Carex Kobomugi, Carex pendula, Carex pumila Thunb, Cyphostemma crotalarioides, Cupressus, Gnetum hainanense, Gnetum ula, Gnetum venosum, Hopea parviflora, Iris clarkei, Neobalanocarpus heimii, Paeoni lactiflora, Parthenocissus tricuspitada, Shorea disticha, Shorea hemsleyana, Sophora davidii, Sophora leachiana, Sophora nuttaliana, Vatica affinis, Vatica affinis, Vitis amurensis, Vitis betulifolia, Vitis flexuosa, Vitis heyneana, Vitis quinquangularis, Vitis coignetiae, Vitis vinifera (Vitaceae).  7) Compositions according to claims 1 to 6, characterized in that oligomers of Resveratrol, defined as oligostilbene when they have a stilbene bond, and stilbenoids when stilbene double bonds are involved in a condensation reaction, may comprise the following compounds: -Viniferin, <Desc / Clms Page number 23>  Ampelopsin A and C, Amurensins I, J, K, L, and M, Balanocarpol, Betulifol A and B, Canaliculatol, Caraganaphenol A, Cassigerol, Copalliferol A, Distichol, Flexuosol A, Gnetins C, E, I, and K, Heimiol A, Hemsleyanols A, B, C, D, E, and F, Heyneanol A, Hopeaphenol, Isohopeaphenol, Kobophenol A and B, Miyabenol C, Pallidol 5, Parviflorol, Piceid, Stemonoporol, Suffruticosols A and B, Vaticaffinol, Vaticanols A, B and C, Vaticaphenol A, α-Viniferin, Visitifuran A, Vitisin A 8) Compositions according to claims 1 to 7, and characterized in that the plant extract is a vine shoot extract containing from 1% to 50% of resveratrol oligomers and / or their glucosides, and / or their esters . 9) Compositions according to claims 1 to 8 characterized in that the vine shoot extract contains from 1% to 40% of s-viniferin. 10) Compositions according to claims 1 to 9, characterized by that they have a UV filtering activities and are intended for sun protection products and day creams. 11) Compositions according to claims 1 to 9, characterized by that they have lightening, whitening of the skin and stain-resistant through antityrosinase activities and anti-radical / antioxidant.  12) Compositions according to claims 1 to 9, characterized in that they have eutrophic activity, which increases the turnover of collagen, elastin, oxatalan fibers, glycoamino-glycans, and increases the thickness, flexibility , elasticity, firmness of the skin.  13) Compositions according to claims 1 to 9 characterized by that they have an anti-inflammatory activity and are intended for sensitive skin, irritated, dry and very dry, the treatment of acne, after-sun care, treatment gingivitis, bleeding gums, periodontitis and paradontopathy.  14) Compositions according to claims 1 to 9 characterized in that they have a specific antimicrobial activity on the propioni bacteria bacterium acnes type, Staphylococcus aureus, Staphylococcus epidermidis, Malassezia furfur, and are intended for the treatment of acne lesions, deodorants, atopic dermatitis, seborrheic dermatitis, scalp dandruff, fungal infections and all hygiene products body and intimate.  15) Compositions according to claims 1 to 9 characterized in that they have a keratolytic and kératorégulatrice activities and are intended for the treatment of all <Desc / Clms Page number 24>  squamous conditions, dry skin, very dry skin, ichthyotic skin, psoriasis, comedones, pre-acne and acne, and actinic keratosis. 16) Compositions according to claims 1 to 9 characterized in that they have an activity of protection against pollution, in particular of pollution by nitrogen oxides, tobacco and industrial fumes, dioxin and derivatives, PCBs , pesticides, xenobiotics. 17) Compositions according to claims 1 to 9 characterized by that they have an anti-glycation activity and are intended for anti-stiffening products of keratinized tissues such as skin, hair, nails, anti-aging products, especially anti-aging accelerated skin, nails, hair of people with diabetes. 18) Compositions according to claims 1 to 9, characterized in that they have an activity for the reduction of white hair and the inhibition of hair graying, of the beard and body hair. 19) Compositions according to claims 1 to 17, characterized by that they are intended for the care and / or facials makeup of the face. 20) Compositions according to claims 1 to 17, characterized by that they are intended for care and / or make-up treating the body 21) Compositions according to the claims there 17, characterized by that they are intended for care and / or make-up treatments of the lips and contours of the lips. 22) Compositions according to claims 1 to 17, characterized by that they are intended for shaving and / or hair removal. 23) Compositions according to claims 1 to 17, characterized by that they are intended for oral care. 24) Compositions according to claims 1 to 17, characterized by that they are intended for care and / or makeup treating external genital areas. 25) Compositions according to claims 17, characterized by that they are intended for care and / or make-up treating nails.  26) cosmetic, pharmaceutical and food supplement compositions according to claims 1 to 25 and characterized in that they may be in the form of liquids, pastes, creams, emulsions, lotions, oils, gels, masks, solids, powders, sprays, aerosols, presented in containers <Desc / Clms Page number 25>  adequate such as bottles, bottles, jars, boxes, ampoules, capsules, pencils, portebatons. 27) cosmetic, pharmaceutical and food supplement compositions according to claims 1 to 26 and characterized in that they may be composed of oil / water or water / oil emulsion, twin-phase emulsion, microemulsion, PIT emulsion, nanoemulsion, water / oil / water or oil / water / oil multiple emulsion, pseudoemulsion (dispersion of two immiscible phases by means of gelling agents), aqueous gel, fatty gel , hydroalcoholic gel, fat phase, suspension, solid or liquid soap, foaming solution, one of the preceding forms containing microcapsules, nano-capsules, liposomes. 28) Compositions according to claims 1 to 27 characterized in that they are in the form of dietary supplements or dietary.