FR2844714A1 - Cosmetic, pharmaceutical or food supplement compositions, comprising resveratrol oligomer or derivative, optionally as plant extract, useful for combating hormonal disorders of skin or exoskeleton and effects of age, e.g. wrinkles - Google Patents

Abstract

Cosmetic, pharmaceutical or food supplement compositions (A), for preventing and/or combating the adverse effects of age- and/or disease-induced hormonal imbalance on the skin, hair, nails, lips, external genitalia and/or buccal mucosa, comprising at least one active agent (I) selected from resveratrol oligomers, their glucosides, their esters and plant extracts containing the compounds, is new.

Description

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The present invention relates to cosmetic, pharmaceutical and food supplement compositions for preventing and combating the negative effects of hormonal imbalance in the skin and / or the hair, and / or the nails, and / or the lips, and / or external genitalia, and / or oral mucosa, hormonal imbalance due to age and / or pathology.

These compositions are characterized in that they contain one or more oligomers of the Resveratrol, and more particularly the s-Viniferin, and / or the glucosides and / or the corresponding formic and acetic esters of these oligomers and / or the natural extracts containing them.

Hormonal imbalances exert certain negative effects on the condition of the skin, nails, hair, lips: dryness, thinning of the dermis and epidermis, fine lines and wrinkles, yellow and brittle nails, weakened hair, gingivitis for example at the time of menopause. In essence, menopause causes hormonal imbalances that are more or less important. Many bibliographic reviews deal with the subject, for example: Skin and Hormones by Dr. JJ Legrand in The Novelties of November 1990 (pages 6 to 8), Hormones and skin aging by P. Malves-Jarvis and Bruno de Lignières at the Congress of the French Society of Cosmetology held in Blois in 1988 (pages 11 to 23 of the report), Hormones and skin aging by Pr. M. Faure, in Abstract Dermato-N 443-20 February 2001, pages 11 and 12 Ovarian Hormones and Skin Aging B. de Lignères, Gynecol.Obstet (1991) 86,451-4. Apart from menopause, which is physiological, pathologies can manifest themselves, such as hyperandrogenism, with also negative manifestations on the skin and its appendages (see on this subject the Thematic Day held in Lyon on May 23, 1997 and the report published in Abstract Dermato No. 334, week of October 27, 1997, pages 11 to 18).

Naturally, manufacturers of skin care products have thought to introduce in their preparations the hormones that are lacking in the skin, for example for menopausal women not benefiting from hormone replacement therapy or to supplement these treatments Clinical tests have been performed: Treatment of aging in perimenopausal females with ostrogen compounds. A pilot study JB Schmidt and Al, Maturitas, 1994 Nov, 20: 1, 25-30, Effect of a conjugated ostrogen (Premarin) cream on aging facial cream. A comparative study with a placebo cream Creidi P. et Al., Maturitas, 1994 Oct, 19: 3, 211-23. But these hormones are not

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 authorized in cosmetics and can only be developed in pharmaceuticals, which is known to have a very long development time and a very high cost.

The manufacturers then turned to the non-steroidal phytohormones found in certain plants: they are essentially isoflavones such as Genistein and Diadezin and their glucosides, which can be found for example in soybeans, yam, and red clover. Extracts are commercially available, such as for example Groupe Arnaud's Lipobelle Soyaglycon or Greentech's soy isoflavones.

However, few studies have been published on the benefits of isoflavones on the skin. We can mention those of J.Franchi: Studies of the properties of isoflavones on dermal cells in vitro culture IIIth National Congress of Phyto-aromatherapy, organized by the Mediterranean Association of Phytotherapy and Medicinal Plants, Montpellier, 15-16 September 2001, studies that relate to the dermis only. Most of the other studies relate to dietary supplements in hormone replacement therapies (Cassidy et al., 1994, Nochols et al., 1995, Petrakis et al., 1996, Pansini et al., 1997, Potter et al. 1998, Hargraves et al., 1999).

Retinoids represent another category of molecules used to treat cutaneous symptoms of hormonal imbalances: retinoic acid is forbidden in cosmetics because teratogen and it is very irritating, retinol and its esters are widely used, but chemically unstable and much less active .

Stilbenes are another class of biomolecules with a number of properties and are quite common in plants. The best known and most studied is Resveratrol, which is 3,4,5'-hydroxy-stilbene, and found in varying amounts in a large number of plants. A number of these plants also synthesize oligomers of Resveratrol, defined as oligostilbenes when they have a stilbene bond, and stilbenoids when stilbene double bonds are involved in a condensation reaction. The following compounds may be mentioned as examples: sViniferin, Ampelopsin A and C, Amurensins I, J, K, L, and M, Balanocarpol, Betulifol A and B, Canaliculatol, Caraganaphenol A, Cassigerol, Copalliferol A, Distichol, Flexuosol A, Gnetins C, E, I, and K, Heimiol A, Hemsleyanols A, B, C, D, E, and F, Heyneanol A, Hopeaphenol, Isohopeaphenol, Kobophenol A and B, Miyabenol C, Pallidol 5, Parviflorol, Piceid, Stemonoporol, Suffruticosols A and B, Vaticaffinol, Vaticanols A, B and C, Vaticaphenol A, α-Viniferin, Visitifuran A, Vitisin A.

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e Resveratrol is designated in the literature for many biological activities:
Antioxidant, Resveratrol's antioxidant action on lipoperoxidation JP

3Lond et Al, Food Sciences, 15 (1995), 347-358
Anti-inflammatory, Molecular and cellular effects of resveratrol in inflamation r.Schwager and Al, MIS 2002, Rennes, France, 22-23 May 2002
Vaso-relaxant, "Endothelium-dependent vasodilator effects of Resveratrol, aural phenolic component of red wines, in rat aorta" Orallo and Al, Cardiovascular harmacology PA-56pp.127 [1 is also claimed in patents of care products of the skin as the) coating FR 2766176 (Caudalie) which claims esters from C4 Resveratrol or oligomers for their anti-radical, anti-oxidant, vasoprotective activity. The patent JS 08 / 900,795 (Unilever) claims the presence of Resveratrol to prevent the proliferation of keratinocytes and stimulate their differentiation. FR 2777186 (L'Oreal) claims from 0.001 to 10% hydroxystilbenes and hydroxyalkyl derivatives to stimulate collagen synthesis, stimulate fibroblast proliferation, and inhibit expression of extracellular matrix proteases and metalloproteinases. L'Oréal claims the same compounds in the same proportions in the patent FR 2777184 day the reduction of the adhesion of microorganisms on the skin and the mucous membranes, and in patent FR 2277183, the increase in the desquamation of the skin and finally in FR 2796278 the inhibition of the glycation of proteins. FR 2778337 (INSERM) claims the polyhydroxy, monomeric or polymeric stilbenes as antagonists the ligands of the aryl hydrocarbon receptor. US 60 / 085,821 (Oklahoma Medical Reseach Foundation) claims Resveratrol and Piceatannol as a myeloperoxidase inhibitor. Patent FR 15098000 (Actichem) describes Resveratrol and its oligomers as inhibitors of the 5-aReductase enzyme.

S-Viniferin is cited in the scientific literature as having a number of biological activities: Anti-bacterial activity (Sultanbawa et al., Phytochemistry; 26; 1987;
802) -Anti-tumoral and hepatoprotective activity (Masayaoshi Ohyama et al., Bioorganic & Medicinal Chemistry Letters; 9; 1999; 3057-3060) -Anti-fungal (Bala AEA et al., Journal of Physiopathology; Jan. 2000, vol 148 , n 1, pp 29-32)

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Inhibition of the growth of A 549 lung cancer cells, and induction of their apoptosis (Sheng-Zhi and Xu-Guang, Acta Academiiae Medicinae Shanghai,
Sept 1998, vol 25, n 5, pp 327-330) -Protection of hepatocytes against CC14 aggression (Oshima Y. et al,
Experimentia; Flight 51; n 1,; pp 63-66; 1995) - Cytotoxic and antimutagenic capacity, (Kim HJ et al., Arch Pharm Res.2002
Jun; 25 (3): 293-9) E-Viniferin is claimed in patents (already cited) alongside Resveratrol: Caudalie, INSERM and Actichem.

Another oligomer is a-Viniferin which is a quadimer of Resveratrol
It is also known a number of biological properties: - Inhibitor of the cyclooxygenase activity of prostaglandin H2 synthase (Lee-
SeungHo et al., Planta Medica; Flight 64; n03; pp 204-207 (1998) - Inhibition of Protein Kinase C (Xu-G et al., Acta Pharmaceutica Sinica, vol 29, n 11, pp 818-822, 1994) and (Kulanthaivel P. et al, Planta Medica, vol 61; n 1; pp41-44, 1995) - Antagonist of the action of 20-hydroxyecdysone (Keckeis-K et al Cellular and
Molecular Life Sciences, Feb. 2000, vol 57, No. 2, pp 333-336) - Inhibition of tyrosinase L-dopa oxidase activity (Kang Bo Seong et al,
Medical Science Research, April 1998, vol 26, No. 4, p 235-237) The chemical formula of s-Viniferin is C28H22O6 (CAS: 62218-08-0). Variable amounts are found in a large number of plants ( in free form or glucosides), for example in the following plants: - Balanocarpus zeylanicus, Caragana chamlagu, Caragana sinica, Carex fedia, Carex humilis, Carex kobomugi, Carex pendula, Carex pumila Thunb, Cyphostemma crotalarioides, Gnetum hainanense, Gnetum ula, Gnetum venosum, Hopea parviflora, Iris clarkei, Neobalanocarpus heimii, Paeoni lactiflora, Parthenocissus tricuspitada, Shorea disticha, Shorea hemsleyana, Sophora davidii, Sophora leachiana, Sophora nuttaliana, Vatican rassak, Vatica affinis, Vitis amurensis, Vitis betulifolia, Vitis flexuosa, Vitis heyneana , Vitis quinquangularis, Vitis coignetiae,
Vitis vinifera (Vitaceae) It has been found that these oligomers of resveratrol, in particular s-viniferine, and the plant extracts containing them, have particular properties with respect to human skin and which

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 have never been described in the literature or in patents. These properties are described below and the use in cosmetic, pharmaceutical and dietary supplement compositions of Resveratrol oligomers, and / or their glucosides, and / or their formic or acetic esters having these properties is the subject of the present invention. invention. at). Activities, of a hormonal type, most often resulting in effects that resemble those produced by retinoids, and making it possible to counter the effects of hormonal variations that have a negative impact on the skin, lips, hair, nails, teeth external genitalia, the oral sphere, and in particular the effects of menopause b) .Activities which in particular make it possible to combat the effects of chronological and / or photoinduced aging, c) .Activities which make it possible to reduce wrinkles and fine lines, wilting of the skin, d) .Activities which make it possible to fight against the decrease of the thickness of the epidermis and the dermis, e) .Activities which make it possible to fight against the loss of suppleness of the skin.

Examples of plant extracts containing resveratrol oligomers, and examples of compositions of cosmetic, pharmaceutical and food supplement products to illustrate the present invention will be described below, without these examples being limiting thereof.

Example of plant extract rich in e-Viniferin: extract of vine shoot.

For example, extract of vine shoot as prepared according to the patent FR2795965, and whose main characteristics are as follows: Beige powder E-Viniferin content: 15% a-Viniferin content: 0.1 to 1% Product insoluble in water.

Product soluble in ethoxydiglycol and butylene glycol.

This product is called Viniferol in the following experiment and the following examples.

Other types of vine shoot extracts may be prepared with a total content of Resveratrol oligomers which may range from 1% to 50% and with an eViniferin content which may range from 1% to 40%.

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Experiment: Study of the hormonal and retinoid activity of s-Viniferin and Viniferol in comparison with soy isoflavones, by measuring the effect of these products on the expression of human skin genes, derived from a 56-year-old woman, menopausal and unsubstituted.

The method used: the reverse transcriptase polymerase chain reaction real-time RT-PCR, quantitative method, to study the effects of the compounds in test on the expression of selected genes coding for proteins typical of the differentiation / proliferation of the epidermis: Filaggrine , Loricrin, Keratin 11, Calgranulin B.

The compounds to be studied are applied to the surface of skin explants taken from a postmenopausal woman during an aesthetic surgery procedure, it being specified that this person is 56 years old and has never taken any hormone replacement therapy.

After 24 hours of incubation, the expression of the genes coding for the proteins mentioned above is evaluated and compared with the expression of these genes in skin explants from the same subject and the same areas, and treated with the placebo. . The evaluation is carried out from messenger RNAs extracted, reverse transcribed in cDNA followed by quantitation by quantitative PCR (Q-PCR).

A first series of Q-PCRs are carried out on the Pactin marker to verify the homogeneity of the preparations to be compared.

Then, sequences of the selected genes and ssactin (reference marker) are duplicated with specific primer pairs and the differential expressions are quantized.

Results.

The following table shows the expression of the 4 genes with respect to Actin expression in each test and with respect to this ratio obtained with the solvent of the products tested:

<Tb>
<tb> Product <SEP> tested <SEP> Fillagrine / Actinine <SEP> Calgranulin <SEP> Loricrin / Actinine <SEP> Keratin
<tb> B / Actinase <SEP> 11 / Actin
<tb> Control <SEP> 50% <SEP> 100 <SEP> 100 <SEP> 100 <SEP> 100
<tb> ethanol
<tb> Viniferol <SEP> 1.5% <SEP> 107 <SEP> 94 <SEP> 57 <SEP> 48
<tb> E-Viniferin <SEP> to <SEP> 37 <SEP> 247 <SEP> 60 <SEP> 34 <SEP>
<tb> 0.5%
<Tb>

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<Tb>
<tb> Isoflavones <SEP> from <SEP> 134 <SEP> 22 <SEP> 116 <SEP> 98
<tb> soybean <SEP> to <SEP> 3% <SEP>
<Tb>
We see that e-Viniferin still has a strong effect on the expression of the 4 genes tested and still very different from the effects produced by soy isoflavones.

For the two genes that soy isoflavones do not substantially modulate (Loricrine and Keratin 11), Viniferol has an effect as marked as s-Viniferin.

The increase in the expression of the Calgranulin B gene and the decrease in the expression of the Fillagine, Loricrin and Keratin 11 genes clearly show a blocking effect of cell differentiation and a stimulation of cellular proliferation, effects which are relate directly to the types of hormonal and retinoid effects.

The s-Viniferine pure or contained in a plant extract such as Viniferol is therefore able to induce in a skin deficient in hormones, effects similar to those produced by natural hormones, effects also similar to those obtained by the action of the retinoic acid.

Another form of vine shoot extract.

In order to make the viniferol water-dispersible and therefore easier to introduce into pharmaceutical and / or dermo-cosmetic compositions, it will be subjected to the following treatment: 20 g of viniferol are dissolved in 20 g of absolute ethyl alcohol.

In addition, 2 g of sodium acrylate (Simugel) are mixed in 58 g of water.

The first mixture is slowly mixed with the second and subjected to conventional lyophilization according to the rules of the art.

A powder is obtained which is easy to disperse in water or in an emulsion.

This powder is called: Viniferol L #.

This product contains 90% Viniferol.

Alternatively, the sodium acrylate can be replaced by a sugar such as inulin.

The cosmetic, pharmaceutical and food supplement compositions of the present invention may be in appropriate form according to the rules of the art in use, in other in the form of liquids, pastes, creams, emulsions, lotions, oils, gels, masks, solids, powders, sprays, aerosols, presented in suitable containers such as flasks, bottles, jars, boxes, ampoules, capsules, pencils, stick holders.

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The cosmetic, pharmaceutical and dietary supplement compositions of the present invention may be composed of oil / water or water / oil emulsion, twin-phase emulsion, microemulsion, PIT emulsion, nanoemulsion multiple emulsion water / oil / water or oil / water / oil, pseudoemulsion (dispersion of two immiscible phases by means of gelling agents), aqueous gel, fatty gel, hydroalcoholic gel, fatty phase, suspension, solid or liquid soap, foaming solution, one of the preceding forms containing microcapsules, nano-capsules, liposomes.

The compositions of the present invention in the case of a cosmetic or pharmaceutical application or food supplement may therefore further comprise the cosmetic or pharmaceutical adjuncts or food supplement conventionally used as oily phase components, gelling agents, emulsifiers, electrolytes, humectants, sequestering agents, emollients, moisturizing agents, film-forming agents, insoluble pigments, dyes, sunscreens, active principles or any other ingredient usually used in cosmetology, dermatology and food supplements. a) Oily phase The oily phase of the emulsions of the present invention may contain, for example: hydrocarbon oils such as paraffin or mineral oils such as isohexadecane and isododecane; natural oils such as sunflower oil, evening primrose oil, jojoba oil, hydrogenated castor oil, avocado oil, hydrogenated palm oil; triglycerides such as caprylic / capric triglyceride, caprylic / capric linoleic triglyceride, caprylic / capric succinic triglyceride; silicone oils such as cyclomethicone, dimethicone and dimethiconol; fatty alcohols such as stearic alcohol, cetyl alcohol and hexadecyl alcohol of fatty acids such as stearic acid, palmitic acid of fatty acid esters such as dioctyl succinate, glyceryl dioleate, myristyl myristate and isopropyl myristate waxes such as beeswax, paraffin wax, carnauba wax, ozokerite lanolin and its derivatives (oil, alcohol, waxes); their mixtures. b) Gelling agents

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 The gelling agents that can be used in the composition of the present invention may be selected from gelling agents known in the art, usable in emulsions and in gels.

The emulsions and the gels can be prepared by using one or a combination of several gelling agents chosen from acceptable gelling agents in pharmaceutical or cosmetic products, preferably dermatological products, of which: polysaccharide gums, for instance modified cellulose derivatives, carrageenan derivatives, derivatives of alginates and guar derivatives polysaccharide gums obtained by fermentation of bacteria such as Xanthan gum, Sclerotium gum and Gellane gum acrylic polymers such as carbomers, polyacrylates, polymethacrylates and derivatives thereof quaternized polymers PVP and In emulsions or gels comprising the composition of the present invention, the gelling agent or combination of gelling agents is about 0.1 to 30%, and preferably about 0.25 to 25%, by weight of the present invention. composition. c) Emulsifiers The emulsifiers which can be used in the compositions of the present invention may be chosen from emulsifiers known in the art, usable in oil-in-water or water-in-oil emulsions or multiple emulsions, or lamellar phase emulsions, or microemulsions, or nanoemulsions, or PIT emulsions.

The compositions of the emulsions may be prepared using an emulsifier selected from cosmetically acceptable emulsifiers, including: Sucroesters such as sucrose cocoate and sucrose distearate Sorbitan esters and ethoxylated sorbitan esters such as sorbitan stearate or polysorbate Glycerol esters, ethoxylated glycerol esters and polyglycerols such as glyceryl oleate or PEG-20 glyceryl stearate or polyglyceryl-10-stearate Ethoxylated fatty alcohols such as ceteth-12 or steareth-6 sesquioleates such as sorbitan sesquioleate Emulsifiers based on silicone oil such as silicone polyols

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 Plant ethoxylated sterols; or a mixture of one or more of the emulsifiers mentioned above.

The amount of emulsifiers optionally present in the water-in-oil or oil-in-water composition is preferably about 0.5 to 15% by weight of the composition. The amount of emulsifiers optionally present in the water-in-water-in-water multiple emulsion of the present invention is preferably about 7 to 20% by weight of the composition. d) Other components of the formulation The compositions of the present invention may further comprise one or more other compounds which will be known to those skilled in the art, for example: electrolytes for water-in-oil emulsion stabilization such as chloride sodium or magnesium sulfate, preferably in an amount of from about 0.2 to 4% by weight of the composition; humectants such as glycerin or propylene glycol or PEG or sorbitol, preferably in an amount of from about 1 to 10% by weight of the composition; sequestering agents such as tetrasodium EDTA, preferably in an amount of from about 0.01 to 0.5% by weight of the composition; emollients such as fatty acid ethers or fatty acid esters, preferably in an amount of from about 0.5 to 10% by weight of the composition; moisturizing agents such as hyaluronic acid, NaPCA, preferably in an amount of from about 0.01 to 5% by weight of the composition; film-forming agents to facilitate spreading on the skin surface, such as hydrolysates of oat, wheat, collagen and almond proteins, preferably in an amount of from about 0.1 to 5% by weight of the composition; insoluble pigments such as titanium oxide, rutile titanium oxide, titanium anatase oxide, pyrogenized titanium oxide, micronized titanium oxide, titanium oxide surface-treated with silicones or by amino acids, or by lecithin, or by metal stearates, iron oxide, iron oxide surface-treated with silicones, or by amino acids, or by lecithin or by stearates zinc oxide, micronized zinc oxide, mica coated with titanium oxide, preferably in an amount of from about 0.5 to 5% by weight of the composition; and their mixtures.

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 sunscreens such as Octyl Methoxycinnamate, Oxybenzone, Octocrylene, Benzylidene Camphor Sulfonic Acid, Octyl Salicylate, Octyl Triazone, 3-Benzylydene Camphor, Butyl Methoxydibenzoyl Methane. active ingredients intended to enhance the activity of the products in other areas of skincare and its annexes, such as and without being limiting, Vitamins A, C, E, bacterial extracts, agents anti-inflammatory agents such as enoxolone or ursolic acid, ceramide (III, II) or pseudo-ceramides, peptides such as pyroGlu-Glu-Asp-Ser-GlyOH or Gly-His-Lys or Arg- GlyAsp-Ser, alpha or beta hydroxy acids such as lactic acid, glycolic acid, salicylic acid.

In all that follows or the above, the percentages are given by weight unless otherwise indicated.

In the compositions forming the subject of the present invention, the content of oligomers of Resveratrol, and / or their glucosides and / or their formic or acetic esters may be present in the proportion of 0.001 to 40%. When the Resveratrol oligomers and / or their glucosides are contained in a plant extract or a mixture of plant extracts, the compositions object of the present invention may contain from 0.01% to 80%.

Other features and advantages of the invention may appear in the examples which follow, and are given purely by way of illustration and in no way limitative.

Example l.Crème facial skincare for dry and very dry skin.

The following fatty phase is prepared: Arachidyl Alcohol & Behenyl Alcohol & Arachidyl Glucoside 4g Jojoba Oil 4g Caprylic / Capric Triglycerides 4g Esters Jojoba lg Polyisobutene Hydrogenated 4g Isocetyl Stearate 4g Cetyl ricinoleate 4g Shea Butter 1g Silicone Oil (Phenyl Trimethicone) 5g Silicone oil (Dimethicone) 2g Dipentaerythrityl Hexacaprylate / Hexacaprate 3g This mixture is brought to 70 C and well homogenized.

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In addition, the following aqueous phase is prepared: Purified water QS100g Tetrasodium EDTA 0.05g Glyceryl Polymethacrylate / Propylene Glycol 5g Cellulose 2g Silica beads coated with metal oxides 1g Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate Copolymer & Isohexadecane & Polysorbate 80 1.25g Sodium hyaluronate O. lg All the ingredients of the aqueous phase are dissolved in water and the whole is brought to 70 C.

The fatty phase, homogeneous and heated to 70 C, is poured slowly on the aqueous phase brought to the same temperature, with vigorous stirring. Stirring is maintained for 10 minutes after the end of the introduction of the fat phase. The oil-in-water emulsion is formed.

The following mixture is also prepared: Viniferol 2g Butylene glycol 10g Viniferol is dissolved in butylene glycol with vigorous stirring. The mixture is then added to the still hot emulsion.

Then, the emulsion is cooled with moderate stirring.

When the temperature reaches 40 ° C., the following are added successively with moderate stirring: Preservatives: 0.15 g Scent: 0.45 g After homogenization, the emulsion is cooled to 30 ° C. with slow stirring.

A white emulsion of pleasant consistency is thus obtained, suitable for the dry and very dry skin of menopausal women.

Example 2. Oil / Water Emulsion The fatty phase consists of: Dimethicone Copolyol & Caprylic / Capric Triglycerides 3g Isodecyl Neopentanoate 5g Polyisobutene Hydrogenated 5g Caprylic / Capric Triglycerides 5g

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 Jojoba Oil 5g Cetyl Alcohol 1g Stearic Acid 1g Beeswax 1g Glycerol Stearate 0.5g Silicone Oil (Dimethicone) 2g This fat phase is heated to 70 C and well homogenized.

In addition, the following aqueous phase is prepared: Purified water QS100g Tetrasodium EDTA 0.05g Glycerin 3 g Sorbitol 2g Carbomer 0.25g Xanthan gum 0.2g Biosaccharide Gum-1 0 5g Polyethylene Glycol 400 2g Methyl Paraben 0. 25g Propyl Paraben 0.15g Soda 10% 0.5g All the ingredients of the aqueous phase are dissolved in water and the whole is heated to 70 C.

The fatty phase, homogeneous and heated to 70 C, is poured slowly on the aqueous phase brought to the same temperature, with vigorous stirring. Stirring is maintained for 10 minutes after the end of the introduction of the fat phase. The oil-in-water emulsion is formed.

Then added with vigorous stirring: Viniferol L #. ' Then, the emulsion is cooled with moderate stirring.

When the temperature reaches 40 ° C., it is added successively with moderate agitation: Fragrance: 0.35 g. After homogenization, the emulsion is cooled to 30 ° C. with slow stirring.

A creamy white cream with a very fresh feel is obtained to combat the effects of chronological aging.

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EXAMPLE 3 Oil / Water Emulsion with Lamellar Phase

The fat phase consists of: Cetearyl Alcohol & Cetearyl Glucoside 6g Octyl Stearate 2g Beeswax 1.5g Propylene Glycol Dicaprylate / Dicaprate 2.5g Jojoba Oil 4g Shea Butter 4g Silicone Oil (Dimethicone) 2g This fat phase is heated to 80 C and well homogenized.

In addition, the following aqueous phase is prepared: Purified water QS100g Tetrasodium EDTA 0.05g Glyceryl Polymethacrylate & Propylene Glycol 10g Polyethylene Glycol 400 2g Methyl Paraben 0.25g Propyl Paraben 0.15g O-Cymen-5-ol 0.1 g All ingredients of the phase are dissolved in water and the whole is heated to 80 C.

The fatty phase, homogeneous and heated to 80 C, is poured slowly on the aqueous phase brought to the same temperature, with vigorous stirring. Stirring is maintained for 10 minutes after the end of the introduction of the fat phase. The oil-in-water emulsion is formed.

The following mixture is then added: Sophora davidii extract 15g Propylene glycol 15g Next, the emulsion is cooled with moderate stirring.

When the temperature reaches 40 ° C., the mixture is added successively with moderate agitation: Fragrance: 0.35% After homogenization, the emulsion is cooled to 30 ° C. with slow stirring.

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 A very creamy white cream with lamellar phases is obtained which can facilitate the penetration of the active principles and prolonged hydration. It is perfect for body care and especially to restore the suppleness of the skin.

EXAMPLE 4 Hair Care Product The following gel is prepared: Demineralised water 65.1 g Carbomer 0.3 g Sodium hydroxide 0.15 g The following solution is added: PEG-400 2 g Methyl paraben 0.25 g Biosol O, 1 g the following solution which is added to the previous gel: ethyl alcohol perfumery 20g s-Viniferine 95% 0.2g The following ingredients are finally added: Polysilicone-3 10g L-Palmitoyl Carnitine O, lg An excellent gel of daily treatment of hair, beard, eyelashes, eyebrows and other deficient hair.

EXAMPLE 5 Dental Care Product The following solution is prepared: Glycerine 20g Viniferol 3g This solution is then kneaded with the following ingredients: Alumina 40g Xanthan gum 1g Water QS 100g Aroma 1g Aspartame 0.5g Sodium benzoate 0.5g A toothpaste is obtained useful for dental hygiene and the care of gingivitis.

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Example 6: care product for the lips The following components are melted at 80 ° C.: White beeswax 8g Ozokerite 6g Capric / Caprylic triglycerides 21g Carnauba wax 5g Candelilla wax 7g Cetyl alcohol 10g Ricin oil 34.49g Viniferol 5g Tocopherol Acetate 0.5g Pearlescent Pigment Mica / Titanium Dioxide 2g Aluminum lacquer dye CI 15.985 O, Olg Aluminum lacquer dye CI 45410 0.5 Natural flavor 0.5g The melt is then poured into appropriate molds (to give a stick shape), cooled and removed from the mold. Sticks are used to reduce the lines and wrinkles of the lips and the contour of the lips.

EXAMPLE 7 Nail Care Product The following water / oil cream is prepared: The fatty phase consists of: Cetyl Dimethicone Copolyol 3g Isononyl Neopentanoate 5g Polyisobutene Hydrogenated 1.5g Caprylic / Capric Triglycerides 1.5g Jojoba Oil 1.5g Dimethiconol Behenate 1.5 g Cyclomethicone & Dimethicone Crosspolyler 10g This fatty phase is heated to 60 ° C. and well homogenized.

In addition, the following aqueous phase is prepared: purified water Q. S. 100g Sodium chloride 0.5g Glycerine 2g

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 Sorbitol 2g Polyethylene Glycol 400 2g s-Viniferin Pentaacetate 3g Methyl Paraben 0.25g Propyl Paraben 0.15g All the ingredients of the aqueous phase are dissolved in water and the whole is brought to 60 C.

The fatty phase, homogeneous and heated to 60 C, is poured slowly on the aqueous phase brought to the same temperature, with vigorous stirring. Stirring is maintained for 10 minutes after the end of the introduction of the fat phase. The water-in-oil emulsion is formed.

Then, the emulsion is cooled with moderate stirring.

When the temperature reaches 40 ° C., the mixture is added with gentle stirring: Fragrance: 0.35% After homogenization, the emulsion is cooled to 30 ° C. with slow stirring.

We obtain a white cream, very unctuous, for the care of damaged, cracked, brittle nails.

Example 8: treating foundation.

The following fatty phase is prepared: Cetyl alcohol 1g Silicone oil 4g Glyceryl stearate 1g Stearic acid 1g Tocopherol acetate 0.5g Jojoba oil 3g Perfluoro Polymethyl Isopropyl Ether 0.5g Cétearyl Octanoate 6g Diisostearyl Malate 8g This fatty phase is heated to 80 ° C. C and well homogenized.

In addition, the following aqueous phase is prepared: purified water Q.S.lOOg Tetrasodium EDTA 0.05g Sodium dehydroacetate 0.2g

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 Xanthane gum 0.3g All the ingredients of the aqueous phase are dissolved in water and the whole is heated to 80 C.

The fatty phase, homogeneous and heated to 80 C, is poured slowly on the aqueous phase brought to the same temperature, with vigorous stirring. Stirring is maintained for 10 minutes after the end of the introduction of the fat phase. The oil-in-water emulsion is formed.

Then add the pigments and the talc which is vigorously mixed hot: Titanium Oxide 6.3g Yellow Iron Oxide Mix and Talc 4.1g Red Iron Oxide Mix and Talc 0.2g Brown Iron Oxide Mix and Talc 1.5g Talc 5g When the colored emulsion is perfectly homogeneous, cooling is begun with moderate stirring.

When the temperature is approximately 45 ° C., the following well-homogenized mixtures are added: Polyethylene Glycol 400 2g Methyl Paraben 0.25g Propyl Paraben 0.15g Bronopol 0.1g Dichlorobenzyl alcohol 0.12g Next: Butylene Glycol 5g Viniferol 0.5g After good homogenization and when the temperature reaches 40 ° C., it is added with moderate agitation: Fragrance: 0.35% After homogenization, the emulsion is cooled to 30 ° C. with slow stirring.

 We obtain a make-up foundation for the treatment of wrinkled skin.

Example 9. Food supplement.

Ingestible capsules contain the following mixture: Viniferol 0.05g

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 Malto-dextrin 0.3g Inulin 0.15g The regular oral intake of these capsules is indicated to prevent and fight against disorders due to hormonal disorders.

Example 10. Shaving Foam The following ingredients are kneaded by heating together at 90 ° C: Demineralized Water Q.S. 100g Stearic Acid 8g Hydroxyethyl Cellulose 0.5g Myristamine Oxide 1.5g Triethanolamine 3.5% Lanolin Ethoxylated 50 moles 1g Sodium Lauryl Sulfate 4g Methyl Paraben 0.2g Propyl Paraben 0.1g Butylene Glycol 5g Hopea parviflora extract 5g When the mixture is although homogeneous, it is cooled with slow but powerful stirring.

When the temperature is 40 C, stirring is added: Fragrance 1g When the mixture is at room temperature, the product is conditioned in 18 bar aluminum aerosol cans, a suitable valve is crimped and a propane / butane propellant mixture is introduced. set at 2.5 / 2.7 bar so that there is 5 g of gas per 100 g of the total mixture.

By opening the valve provided with a foam diffuser, we obtain a very smooth shaving foam, for dermes and very thin epidermis.

Hair and hair removal products can also be prepared in the same way.

Example 11. Sun protection product.

The following fatty phase is prepared: Cetyl Dimethicone Copolyol 4g Polysorbate 20 0.2g Jojoba Oil 1g

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 Ozokerite 2g Isostearyl Neopentanoate 4g Octyl Methoxycinnamate 8g Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane 2g 4-Methyl Benzylydene Camphor 3g Tocopheryl Acetate 0.5g This fat phase is heated to 75 ° C until homogenized, then allowed to cool to 60 ° C.

The following aqueous phase is prepared: Demineralized water QS100g Sclerotium Gum 0.2g Tetrasodium EDTA 0.05g Sodium chloride 0.8g Polyethylene Glycol 400 2g Methyl Paraben 0.25g Propyl Paraben 0.1g Biosol 0.1g The aqueous phase is heated at 60 ° C. It is then poured slowly with vigorous stirring into the fatty phase at the same temperature. Stir at this temperature for about 20 minutes. The water-in-silicone emulsion is formed. Then, cool with gentle stirring.

When the temperature is 40 C, the following mixture is added: Butylene Glycol 5g Viniferol L # 1g is homogenized and then added: Perfume 0.5 g Homogenized and then allowed to cool to room temperature.

We obtain a sunscreen medium protection index, very suitable for wrinkled skin, wilted, having lost their flexibility.

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The above examples are obviously not limiting. In Example 4, which deals with hair, beard, eyelashes and other deficient hairs, it is possible to add permanent, semi-permanent or temporary dyes to the formulation in order to obtain a treatment color.

Similarly in Example 6, in the formula of a fatty stick to reduce the lines and wrinkles of the lips and the lip contour, the proportion of dyes can be increased to the detriment of the fatty phase to obtain a make-up treating the lips and contour. lips.

Example 8 of a foundation treating wrinkled skin can be applied to the face and any other part of the human body, including the external genital areas.

The makeup treating the nails can be obtained by adding viniferol or # - viniferine acetate or glucoside or ester, or a plant extract containing it, or a mixture of several plant extracts containing it in a conventional composition of nail polish.

Example 9 which relates to a dietary supplement can also be applied to a dietary product.

Claims (26)

 Claims 1) Cosmetic, pharmaceutical and dietary supplement compositions for preventing and / or combating the adverse effects of hormonal imbalance in the skin and / or the hair, and / or the nails, and / or the lips, and / or the external genital organs, and / or the oral mucosa, imbalance due to age and / or pathology, and characterized by that they contain one or more Resveratrol oligomers, and / or their glucosides, and / or their esters, and / or one or more vegetable extracts containing them. 2) Compositions according to claim 1 and characterized in that the oligomer or oligomers, and / or their glucosides and / or their esters are present in the proportion of 0.001% to 40%. 3) Compositions according to claims 1 and 2 and characterized in that the or oligomers of resveratrol are present in the form of acetates. 4) Compositions according to claim 1 and characterized in that they contain a plant extract or a mixture of plant extracts containing one or more resveratrol oligomers and / or their glucosides, and / or their esters. 5) Compositions according to claim 1 and characterized in that the plant extract or the mixture of plant extracts is present in the proportion of 0. 01% to 80%. 6) Compositions according to claims 1 to 5 characterized by that they contain plant extracts (alone or in admixture) which are selected from the following extracts: - Balanocarpus zeylanicus, Caragana chamlagu, Caragana sinica, Carex fedia, Carex humilis, Carex Kobomugi, Carex pendula, Carex pumila Thunb, Cyphostemma crotalarioides, Cupressus, Gnetum hainanense, Gnetum ula, Gnetum venosum, Hopea parviflora, Iris clarkei, Neobalanocarpus heimii, Paeoni lactiflora, Parthenocissus tricuspitada, Shorea disticha, Shorea hemsleyana, Sophora davidii, Sophora leachiana, Sophora nuttaliana, Vatica affinis, Vatica affinis, Vitis amurensis, Vitis betulifolia, Vitis flexuosa, Vitis heyneana, Vitis quinquangularis, Vitis coignetiae, Vitis vinifera (Vitaceae). 7) Compositions according to claims 1 to 6 characterized by that Resveratrol oligomers, defined as oligostilbene when they have a stilbene bond, and stilbenoids when stilbene double bonds are involved in a <Desc / Clms Page number 23>  condensation reaction, may comprise the following compounds: s-Viniferin, Ampelopsin A and C, Amurensins I, J, K, L, and M, Balanocarpol, Betulifol A and B, Canaliculatol, Caraganaphenol A, Cassigerol, Copalliferol A, Distichol, Flexuosol A, Gnetins C, E, I, and K, Heimiol A, Hemsleyanols A, B, C, D, E, and F, Heyneanol A, Hopeaphenol, Isohopeaphenol, Kobophenol A and B, Miyabenol C, Pallidol 5, Parviflorol, Piceid, Stemonoporol, Suffruticosols A and B, Vaticaffinol, Vaticanols A, B and C, Vaticaphenol A, α-Viniferin, Visitifuran A, Vitisin A 8) Compositions according to claims 1 to 7, and characterized in that the plant extract is a vine shoot extract containing from 1% to 50% of resveratrol oligomers and / or their glucosides, and / or their esters . 9) Compositions according to claims 1 to 8 characterized in that the vine shoot extract contains from 1% to 40% of s-viniferin. 10) Compositions according to claims 1 to 9, characterized by that they are intended to combat the effects of menopause. 11) Compositions according to claims 1 to 9, characterized in that they are intended to combat the effects of chronological aging and / or photoinduced, 12) Compositions according to claims 1 to 11 characterized in that they are intended to reduce wrinkles and fine lines, wilting of the skin 13) Compositions according to claims 1 to 11 characterized by that they are intended to combat the decrease in the thickness of the epidermis and dermis 14) Compositions according to claims 1 to 11characterized by what they are intended to combat the loss of suppleness of the skin.  15) Compositions according to claims 1 to 14, characterized by that they are intended for the care and / or facials makeup of the face.  16) Compositions according to claims 1 to 14, characterized by that they are intended for care and / or make-up treating the body 17) Compositions according to claims there 14, characterized by that they are intended for care and / or make-up treating lips and lips contours.  18) Compositions according to claims 1 to 11, characterized by that they are intended for care and / or hair coloring and hair dye.  19) Compositions according to claims 1 to 11, characterized by that they are intended for shaving and / or hair removal. <Desc / Clms Page number 24> 20) Compositions according to claims 1 to 11, characterized by that they are intended for oral care. 21) Compositions according to claims 1 to 11, characterized by that they are intended for care and / or makeup treating external genital areas. 22) Compositions according to claims there 11, characterized by that they are intended for care and / or makeup treating nails. 23) Compositions according to claims 1 to 11, characterized by that they are intended for the sun protection of the skin. 24) cosmetic, pharmaceutical and food supplement compositions according to claims 1 to 23 and characterized in that they may be in the form of liquids, pastes, creams, emulsions, lotions, oils, gels, masks, solids, powders, sprays, aerosols, presented in suitable containers such as flasks, bottles, jars, boxes, ampoules, capsules, pencils, carrier sticks. 25) cosmetic, pharmaceutical and food supplement compositions according to claims 1 to 24 and characterized in that they may be composed of oil / water or water / oil emulsion, twin-phase emulsion, microemulsion, PIT emulsion, nanoemulsion, water / oil / water or oil / water / oil multiple emulsion, pseudoemulsion (dispersion of two immiscible phases by means of gelling agents), aqueous gel, fatty gel , hydroalcoholic gel, fat phase, suspension, solid or liquid soap, foaming solution, one of the preceding forms containing microcapsules, nano-capsules, liposomes. 26) Compositions according to claims 1 to 25 characterized in that they are in the form of dietary supplements or dietary.