WO2008071897A2

WO2008071897A2 - Topical use of at least one monounsaturated fatty acid to improve hair

Info

Publication number: WO2008071897A2
Application number: PCT/FR2007/052501
Authority: WO
Inventors: Audrey Gueniche; Isabelle Castiel
Original assignee: L'oreal
Priority date: 2006-12-14
Filing date: 2007-12-13
Publication date: 2008-06-19
Also published as: WO2008071897A3

Abstract

The invention relates to the topical use of at least one monounsaturated fatty acid, the salts and/or esters thereof, preferably petroselinic acid, in order to improve hair quality and appearance.

Description

Topical use of at least one monounsaturated fatty acid to improve hair

The present invention relates to the topical use of at least one monounsaturated fatty acid, its salts and / or its esters, in a composition containing a cosmetically or pharmaceutically acceptable medium, as a protective agent (treatment or prevention ) scalp and hair.

The hair follicle is composed of perfectly individual compartments, some of dermal origin (conjunctive sheath and dermal papilla), the others of epithelial nature (external epithelial sheath, inner sheath, hair shaft and sebaceous gland). The conjunctive sheath, synthesized by fibroblasts, is mainly an extracellular matrix formed of type I and III collagens, as well as proteoglycans. Crossed in the lower third by a network of blood capillaries, it extends to the base of the follicle, by the dermal papilla, a true extracellular matrix aggregate. The dermal papilla consists of particular fibroblasts responsible for the local synthesis of prostaglandin E2. A basement membrane, composed of type IV collagen, laminin type 1 and 5, fibronectin and heparan sulfate proteoglycans, separates the dermal compartment from the epithelial compartment. The expression profile of laminin 5 is however interrupted at the periphery of the bulb, thus highlighting a regionalization of the dermal-epidermal junction. The epithelial compartment can be separated into four distinct domains. At the base of the follicle and surrounding the dermal papilla where the matrix is located, seat of an intense mitotic activity. This matrix produces, with specific differentiation programs, the three major concentric domains that are the outer sheath, the inner sheath and the hair shaft. In the upper part of the follicle is the sebaceous gland, made up of particular keratinocytes, the sebocytes responsible for the synthesis of sebum. The upper part of the outer sheath is also characterized by the presence of cells of Langerhans, true sentinels of the immune system, and Merkel cells filled with neuropeptides and whose role is still unknown (reviewed in "The revealed life of the hair follicle" human ", Bernard BA, Medicine Science Vol 22 (2), 2006).

The applicant has for many years carried out numerous clinical tests and has thus been able to determine the symptoms associated with aged hair. These symptoms are in particular a change in the appearance of the fiber (fine, dull, loose hair (soft), without luster, graying), hair that has a tendency to fall, that renews less quickly. These manifestations result from a disorganization of the collagen network in the epidermis and dermis of the scalp, the appearance of glycation products (1) which stiffens the dermis around the hair follicle causing negative effects for the resident follicles and the skin. implantation of new hair, and the reduction of sebum synthesis increasing all the dullness and lack of radiance of the hair and promoting hair loss (2, 3). (1) VM Monnier, Cerami A. ACS Symposium Series 215 (1983): 431-449

(2) Jaworsky C, Kligman AM, Murphy GF. Br J Dermatol 127 (1992): 239-246

(3) Sueki H, Stoudemayer T et al. Acta Dermatol Venereol 79 (1999): 347-350

Having healthy, vigorous and numerous hair throughout one's life is an ambition of most men and women. Many products for hair treatment are available. However, no topical product allows today to fight against the alterations of the scalp and / or the related hair appearing with the age and does not make it possible to protect the "capital hair".

The Applicant has shown that monounsaturated fatty acids could be used to combat the deterioration of aged hair.

Chronological aging is a natural phenomenon that occurs gradually and more or less early depending on the individual. The manifestations of aging on the hair can however be accelerated, and therefore appear in younger individuals, by endogenous factors, stress, diseases ..., or exogenous such as pollution, UV exposure ...

Monounsaturated fatty acids have been described for various applications such as the hydration of dry skin (EP 0 709 084 from L'Oreal).

EP 0 1 16 439 (Suntory) discloses that certain fatty acids have a strong activity of inhibiting the 5α-reductase of the bacterial flora of the scalp, and can therefore be used in tonic products for the treatment of dandruff and itching of the scalp. The action of these fatty acids is therefore aimed at the bacterial flora of the scalp.

US 4,097,604 (Oxford HiII) indicates that a salt of different fatty acids is active against pathogens of the oral cavity, thereby reducing the incidence of these bacteria on the occurrence of periodontoses. The action of these fatty acids is in this case limited to the oral flora.

EP 0 355 842 (Sansho Seiyaku) discloses a care cream for preventing pigmentation caused by an overproduction of melanin, said cream being able to contain petroselinic acid. EP 1 013 178 (Unilever) describes the use of petroselinic acid as an anti-inflammatory agent and for treating the cutaneous signs of aging (wrinkles, flaccid skin, senescence spots).

However, none of these documents foreshadowed the activity of monounsaturated fatty acids on the quality of the hair fiber and thus of the hair.

Thus, the present invention relates to the topical use of at least one monounsaturated fatty acid, its salts or esters, for preventing and / or treating scalp alterations.

The alterations of the scalp include fibrosis of the tissues surrounding the hair follicles.

The Applicant has indeed been able to demonstrate that the monounsaturated fatty acids lead to:

a restructuring of the collagen network, in particular visible by Trichorme Masson staining on a skin section of an individual treated with coriander oil, in fact this oil has the activity of reducing the collagenase and elastase activity (measured by enzymatic assay); a decrease in the glycated proteins found in the dermis and the epidermis

(decrease of carboxylmethyl-lysine derivatives);

a decrease in the markers of stress and inflammation (such as Hsp 70 and TNF-alpha, the measurement of which can be carried out with specific antibodies) or the oxidative stress of the surrounding tissue of the hair follicles leads to an alteration of the hair, even their fall.

They also prevent damage to the dermis by tissue enzymes such as collagenases, elastases and gelatinases and thus lead to a healthy scalp without fibrosis, favorable to the maintenance of a good quality hair.

The use of at least one monounsaturated fatty acid, its salts or esters, also makes it possible to limit hair loss and / or increase the density of the hair. The density of a hair is determined by the number of hair for a given scalp area.

The use according to the invention makes it possible to prevent and / or limit the formation of fine and / or dull and / or brittle and / or soft hair. The invention also aims at reducing the heterogeneity of the diameters of the hair. The invention relates in particular to the use of unsaturated fatty acids in or for the preparation of compositions, particularly cosmetic compositions, to improve the aesthetic appearance of the hair.

The use according to the invention also makes it possible to improve the quality of the keratinous fibers, in particular by promoting the presence of shiny and / or thick hair, in particular with increased diameter, and / or vigorous.

By improving the quality of the hair, it is more specifically intended to improve the styling and / or shine and / or the general appearance of the hair.

By heterogeneity of the diameters of the hair is meant a large variation of the diameters of the hair on the same area of the scalp; some hair having a physiological diameter, others having, in the immediate vicinity of these hair, a diminished diameter (fine hair). Thus, by "reducing the heterogeneity of the diameters", it is intended to increase the diameter of the fine hair.

By topical administration is meant administration in the vicinity of the site of action, preferably topical administration will be by the spreading of a composition comprising at least one monounsaturated fatty acid, its salts and / or esters, on the scalp and / or at the base of the hair or on the whole of the hair including the scalp.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term monounsaturated fatty acid is understood to mean a fatty acid comprising a double bond.

It is more particularly long-chain fatty acids. The monounsaturated fatty acids that are suitable for the invention are monounsaturated fatty acids containing 12 to 22 carbon atoms.

The unsaturated fatty acids may be in acid form, or salt or also in the form of derivatives including fatty acid esters.

When in salt form, the monounsaturated fatty acids may more particularly be cosmetically acceptable salts, that is to say, inorganic salts such as ammonium or alkali metal salts (lithium, potassium, sodium) alkaline earth (magnesium, calcium) or aluminum salts. In particular, monounsaturated fatty acids are in the form of calcium salt.

The monounsaturated fatty acid derivatives are in particular esters and amides. When in the form of an ester, the monounsaturated fatty acids can be esterified with glycerol (mono-, di- or tri-acyl), an alcohol such as methyl and ethyl alcohols, a sugar, a tocopherol, a tocotrienol, a sterol or a fatty alcohol.

As monounsaturated fatty acids, mention may be made of petroselinic acid (or delta-6- cis-octadecenoic acid C18), palmitoleic acid (or cis-9-hexadecenoic acid, C16) or oleic acid (cis-9-octadecenoic acid, C18).

It is understood that the choice of fatty acids is made taking into account the purpose of the composition comprising them, and in particular, its mode of administration. Among the monounsaturated fatty acids, oleic acid and petroselinic acid are particularly used. Particularly suitable for the invention is petroselinic acid.

According to a variant of the invention, the monounsaturated fatty acid or acids are used in an isolated form, that is to say after extraction of their original source.

According to another variant of the invention, the monounsaturated fatty acids or acids come from plant extracts such as oils.

Thus the invention relates in particular to the use of an oil rich in monounsaturated fatty acid.

In particular, it is possible to use oils rich in petroselinic acid which are more particularly chosen from umbelliferous oils.

Oil rich in petroselinic acid is understood to mean an oil comprising at least 40% of pretroselinic acid. Umbelliferae are plants whose flowers are arranged in umbels, species particularly rich in petroselenic acid are Umbellifarea-Apiacea and Araliaceae.

Plants of the genus Thapsia are also sources of petroselenic acid (Avato et al, Lipids, 2001, 36, 845). The preferred species used in the invention are coriander, chervil, carrot, celery, caraway, caraway, parsley and dill. The umbelliferous oil used according to the invention can be extracted from the seed of this umbellifer, for example by grinding or pressing, then refining. Umbellifer oil has a petroselinic acid content that varies according to the umbelliferous seed from which it is extracted. For the same umbellifer, the petroselinic acid content also varies according to the country of origin of the umbellifer and according to the extraction which can be more or less complete.

Petroselenic acid is also an abundant compound (about 48%) of Geranium sanguneum seed oil (Tsevegsuren et al, Lipids, 2004, 39, 571). For the purposes of the use according to the invention, the monounsaturated fatty acids are incorporated in compositions which are preferentially topical cosmetic and / or dermatological compositions, comprising in a physiologically acceptable carrier, at least an effective amount of at least a monounsaturated fatty acid, one of their salts and / or esters.

By "effective amount" is meant in the sense of the present invention an amount sufficient to achieve the expected effect.

The fatty acid or monounsaturated fatty acid ester content in the compositions for the topical route according to the invention may vary from 0.0001 to 30%, especially from 0.01 to 15% and in particular from 0.1 to 10%. % by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

The compositions according to the invention may be in any of the galenical forms normally used depending on the method of administration chosen.

The support may be of a different nature depending on the type of composition considered.

The compositions intended for topical administration can be chosen from hydroalcoholic or oily solutions, dispersions of the type of solutions or dispersions of the lotion or serum type, emulsions of liquid or semi-liquid consistency of the milk type, suspensions or emulsions. , cream type, aqueous or anhydrous gels, microemulsions, microcapsules, microparticles, or vesicular dispersions of ionic and / or nonionic type.

These compositions are prepared according to the usual methods.

They can also be used for hair in the form of solutions, creams, gels, emulsions, foams or in the form of aerosol compositions also containing a propellant under pressure. These compositions may be rinsed or not, it may be shampoo.

When the composition of the invention is an emulsion, the proportion of the fatty phase can range from 5 to 80% by weight, and preferably from 5 to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The oils, emulsifiers and coemulsifiers used in the composition in emulsion form are chosen from those conventionally used in the cosmetics and / or dermatological field. The emulsifier and the coemulsifier may be present in the composition in a proportion ranging from 0.3 to 30% by weight, and preferably from 0.5 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

When the composition of the invention is a solution or an oily gel, the fatty phase may represent more than 90% of the total weight of the composition. In known manner, the cosmetic and / or dermatological composition of the invention may also contain adjuvants customary in the pharmaceutical and / or dermatological cosmetic field, such as hydrophilic or lipophilic gelling agents, hydrophilic or lipophilic active agents, preservatives, antioxidants solvents, perfumes, fillers, filters, bactericides, odor absorbers and dyestuffs. The amounts of these various adjuvants are those conventionally used in the field under consideration, and for example from 0.01 to 20% of the total weight of the composition. These adjuvants, depending on their nature, can be introduced into the fatty phase and / or into the aqueous phase. As fats which may be used in the invention, in addition to the unsaturated fatty acids, mention may be made of mineral oils such as, for example, hydrogenated polyisobutene and liquid petrolatum, vegetable oils such as, for example, a liquid fraction of shea butter, sunflower oil and apricot kernels, animal oils such as perhydrosqualene, synthetic oils including Purcellin oil, isopropyl myristate and ethyl hexyl palmitate, and fluorinated oils as per for example perfluoropolyethers. It is also possible to use fatty alcohols, fatty acids such as, for example, stearic acid and, for example, waxes such as paraffin, carnauba and beeswax. It is also possible to use silicone compounds such as silicone oils and, for example, cyclomethicone and dimethicone, waxes, resins and silicone gums. As emulsifiers used in the invention there may be mentioned for example glycerol stearate, polysorbate 60, the mixture of cetylstearyl alcohol / oxyethylenated cetylstearyl alcohol with 33 moles of ethylene oxide sold under the name Sinnowax AO ^® by the company Henkel , the mixture of PEG-6 / PEG-32 / glycol stearate sold under the name Tefose ^® 63 by Gattefosse, PPG-3 myristyl ether, silicone emulsifiers such as cetyl dimethicone copolyol and sorbitan monostearate or tristearate, PEG-40 stearate, oxyethylenated sorbitan monostearate (20OE). As solvents that can be used in the invention, mention may be made of lower alcohols, in particular ethanol and isopropanol, and propylene glycol. As hydrophilic gelling agents, mention may be made of carboxylic polymers such as carbomer, acrylic copolymers such as acrylate / alkylacrylate copolymers, polyacrylamides and in particular the polyacrylamide, C13-14-lsoparaffin and Laureth-7 mixture sold under the name Sepigel 305 ^® by the company SEPPIC, polysaccharides such as cellulose derivatives such as hydroxyalkylcelluloses, and in particular hydroxypropylcellulose and hydroxyethylcellulose, natural gums such as guar, locust bean and xanthan and clays. As lipophilic gelling agents, mention may be made of modified clays such as bentones, metal salts of fatty acids such as aluminum stearates and hydrophobic silica, or else ethylcellulose and polyethylene.

Of course, the topical compositions, or combinations according to the invention may further contain several other assets.

The monounsaturated fatty acids will advantageously be used in combination with other cosmetic active ingredients. As active agents that may be mentioned, vitamins B1, B3, B5, B6, B8, B12, C, D, E, or PP, niacin, carotenoids (and, in particular, lycopene), polyphenols and mineral salts such as zinc, calcium, magnesium, copper, sugars (oses), amino acids (such as taurine), catechins, oligo-proanthocyanidines (OPC), sulfur amino acids, polyunsaturated fatty acids omega 3 and 6, gelatin. In particular, it is possible to use an antioxidant complex comprising vitamins C and E, and at least one carotenoid, in particular a carotenoid chosen from β-carotene, lycopene, astaxanthin, zeaxanthin and lutein, flavonoids such as as catechins, hesperidin, proanthocyanidins and anthocyanins.

As hydrophilic active agents, use may be proteins or protein hydrolysates, amino acids, polyols, especially C ₂ to Ci ₀ as glycerol, sorbitol, butylene glycol and polyethylene glycol, urea, allantoin, sugars and sugar derivatives, water-soluble vitamins, starch, bacterial or plant extracts such as Aloe Vera.

As lipophilic active agents, it is possible to use retinol (vitamin A) and its derivatives, tocopherol (vitamin E) and its derivatives, ceramides, essential oils and unsaponifiables (tocotrienol, sesamine, gamma oryzanol, phytosterols, squalenes, waxes, terpenes). In addition, the active agents according to the invention may be combined with active agents intended in particular for the prevention and / or treatment of cutaneous affections. The composition of the invention may also advantageously contain a thermal and / or mineral water, in particular chosen from Vittel water, the waters of the Vichy basin and Roche Posay water.

The invention also relates to a cosmetic process for improving the quality of the hair and the hair fiber, promoting the growth of a shiny and / or thick and / or vigorous hair comprising at least one application step on the leather hairy and / or hair a topical composition comprising in a physiologically acceptable carrier, at least one monounsaturated fatty acid, a salt thereof and / or esters. Optionally, said topical composition may be rinsed. Preferably, the monounsaturated fatty acid is petroselinic acid.

The cosmetic treatment method of the invention may be implemented in particular by applying the cosmetic and / or dermatological compositions or combinations as defined above, according to the usual technique of use of these compositions. For example: applications of creams, gels, serums, lotions on dry hair, application of a hair lotion on wet hair, shampoos.

The cosmetic process according to the invention can be implemented by topical administration, for example daily, of the combination according to the invention which can for example be formulated in the form of gels, lotions, emulsions. The method according to the invention may comprise a single administration. According to another embodiment, the administration is repeated for example 2 to 3 times daily on a day or more and generally over an extended period of at least 4 weeks, or even 4 to 15 weeks, with one or more if necessary periods of interruption.

According to yet another of its aspects, the invention relates to the use of an effective amount of at least one monounsaturated fatty acid, unsaturated fatty acid ester, a salt or derivatives thereof for the manufacture of a cosmetic or dermatological composition for treating or preventing pathologies associated with aged hair.

Example 1 - Hair lotion (% by weight)

Blackcurrant seed oil 5.00

Coriander oil 5.00

Carrot oil 5.00

Antioxidant 0.05 Isopropanol 40.00

Conservative 0.35

Water qs 100,00

EXAMPLE 2 The formulation of Example 1 is supplemented with a vitamin complex comprising 100 mg of vitamin B1, B6, B12, 100 μg of taurine and 6 mg of gelatin. Example 3 - Scalp Massage Milk

(% in weight)

Cumin oil 5.00

Evening Primrose Oil 2.00 Coriander Oil 5.00

0.05 Antioxidant

Isopropanol 40.00

Glycerol stearate 1, 00 Cetylstearyl alcohol / cetylstearyl alcohol oxyethylenated to 33 mole EO (Sinnowax AO sold by Henkel) 3.00

Cetyl alcohol 1, 00

Dimethicone (DC 200 Fluid sold by Dow Corning) 1, 00

Vaseline oil 6.00

Isopropyl myristate (Estol IPM 1514 sold by Unichema) 3.00 Antioxidant 0.05

Glycerine 20,00

Conservative 0.30

Water qs 100,00

Example 4

In the formulation of Example 3 is added a vitamin complex comprising 100 mg of vitamin B1, B6, B12, 100 μg of taurine and 6 mg of gelatin.

Example 5 - Gel for hair care (% by weight)

Coriander oil 5.00

Evening Primrose Oil 2,00

Cherry oil 5,00

Antioxidant 0.05 Vitamin C 2.50

0.05 Antioxidant

Isopropanol 40.00

Conservative 0.30

Water qs 100,00 Example 6

The formulation of Example 5 is supplemented with a vitamin complex comprising 100 mg of vitamin B1, B6, B12, 100 μg of taurine and 6 mg of gelatin.

Example 7 - Lotion for hair care

(% in weight)

Dill oil 5,00

Coriander oil 2.00

Borage oil 5.00 Antioxidant 0.05

Isopropanol 40.00

Conservative 0.30

Water qs 100,00

Example 8

In the formulation of Example 7 is added a vitamin complex comprising 100 mg of vitamin B1, B6, B12, 100 μg of taurine and 6 mg of gelatin.

Example 9

Effect on the formation of culturing products in in vitro dermal fibroblast cultures:

Treatment% Control Control 100

Aminoguanidine 1 mg / ml 42 ^*

Petroselinic Ac 0.885mM 73 ^*

^* significant difference compared to the control p <0.01

This table corresponds to the relative quantification of glycation products by densitometric analysis of the spots of the immuno-detection of glycation products (AGE) (Dot Blot method)

Under the experimental conditions of this test, the reference Aminoguanidine significantly reduces the amount of glycation product (-58% compared to the control). This result validates the test Petroselinic acid significantly decreased the formation of glycation products in this test (decrease of -27% compared to the control

Claims

1. Topical use of at least one monounsaturated fatty acid, its salts or esters, for preventing and / or treating scalp alterations.

2. Use according to claim 1 for preventing and / or treating fibrosis of the tissues surrounding the hair follicles.

3. Use according to claim 1 or 2, to limit hair loss and / or increase the density of the hair.

4. Use according to claim 1 or 2, for preventing and / or limiting the formation of fine and / or dull and / or brittle and / or soft hair.

5. Use according to any one of the preceding claims, for improving the quality of keratin fibers.

6. Use according to claim 5, to promote the growth of shiny hair and / or thick and / or vigorous.

7. Use according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that said monounsaturated fatty acid is used in isolated form or in a plant extract.

8. Use according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the content of monounsaturated fatty acid is between 0.0001 and 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

9. Use according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the monounsaturated fatty acid is petroselinic acid.

10. Use according to claim 9, characterized in that the petroselinic acid is used in the form of umbelliferous oil or Gernium sanguneum.

1. Use according to claim 10, characterized in that the umbelliferous oil is chosen from coriander, chervil, carrot, celery, caraway, caraway, parsley and dill seed oils.

12. Use according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that said monounsaturated acid is used in combination with at least one active agent chosen from vitamins B1, B3, B5, B6, B8, B12, C, D, E, or PP, niacin, carotenoids, polyphenols and minerals, amino acids, catechins, oligo-proanthocyanidins, sulfur amino acids, omega 3 and 6 polyunsaturated fatty acids, gelatin

13. Cosmetic process for improving the quality of the hair and of the hair fibers, characterized in that it comprises the application to the scalp and / or the hair of a composition comprising at least one monounsaturated fatty acid, its salt and / or its ester.

14. The method of claim 13, characterized in that the monounsaturated fatty acid is petroselinic acid.