WO2024023440A1

WO2024023440A1 - Novel cosmetic or dermatological use of a gentiana crassicaulis extract

Info

Publication number: WO2024023440A1
Application number: PCT/FR2023/051160
Authority: WO
Inventors: Catherine BONNAUD-ROSAYE; Philippe Moussou; Qi Miao SHAO
Original assignee: Basf Beauty Care Solutions France Sas
Priority date: 2022-07-26
Filing date: 2023-07-25
Publication date: 2024-02-01

Abstract

The present invention relates to the novel cosmetic use of a Gentiana crassicaulis extract and/or of a composition comprising same for the cosmetic treatment and/or cosmetic care of healthy skin and/or mucosae selected from skin and/or mucosae that are sensitive and/or sensitised and/or fragile and/or brittle and/or dry and/or that have atopic tendencies, in particular for preventing and/or reducing one or more of the unaesthetic and/or unpleasant and/or uncomfortable manifestations of healthy skin and/or mucosae, in particular for soothing healthy skin and/or mucosa and/or increasing and/or maintaining the comfort of healthy skin and/or mucosa and/or reducing and/or preventing the sensitivity thereof and/or increasing and/or maintaining the hydration thereof, in particular for improving and/or maintaining the cutaneous and/or mucosal barrier of healthy skin and/or mucosa. The present invention also relates to the novel use of a Gentiana crassicaulis extract and/or a composition comprising same for the dermatological treatment of skin and/or mucosae having an impaired cutaneous and/or mucosal barrier.

Description

New cosmetic or dermatological use of an extract of Gentiana crassicauh's

Technical area

[0001] The present invention relates to the cosmetic use of an extract of Gentiana crassicauiis to prevent and/or reduce one or more of the unsightly and/or unpleasant and/or uncomfortable manifestations of healthy skin and/or mucous membranes having a skin barrier and /or weakened mucosal barrier, as well as dermatological treatment of skin and/or mucous membranes with an altered skin and/or mucosal barrier.

Prior art

[0002] Sensitive skin is very common, and several epidemiological studies have shown that more than half of the population reports having sensitive skin. Sensitive skin occurs in people with normal skin, with a weakening or disruption of the skin barrier. When the skin barrier is significantly altered, real pathologies can appear such as reactive, intolerant, allergic, atopic, irritated skin, or be a symptom associated with xerosis, rosacea, atopic dermatitis and psoriasis, ichthyosis. , including pathological peeling, for example peeling known as Peeling Skin Syndrome, irritation or even diabetes, shingles, fibromyalgia and quadriplegia.

[0003] Various external stimuli or substances may be responsible for or accentuate sensitive skin, such as environmental factors (UV radiation, heat, cold or temperature change, wind, dry air, pollution), factors linked to lifestyle ( air conditioner, food, alcohol consumption, clothing), chemicals (surfactants such as sodium lauryl sulfate, soaps, shampoos, heavy metals, detergents, compounds contained in cosmetic treatments such as perfumes, preservatives, alcohols, pH , AHA or dermatological such as vitamin A acid) or other sensitizing agents, and/or aggressive conditions including perspiration and mechanical attacks such as hair removal, shaving, rubbing and even water in particular calcareous and/or endogenous factors such as emotions, genetic predispositions, hormonal state and stress.

[0004] More and more people report having sensitive skin, particularly due to the increase in environmental pollution, climate change, and the increasing complexity of materials used in products for topical use or clothing.

[0005JThere is therefore a need to identify solutions to combat the sensitivity of the skin and/or mucous membranes, in particular to prevent and/or reduce one or more unsightly and/or unpleasant and/or uncomfortable manifestations of the skin and/or mucous membranes. healthy skins selected from sensitive, sensitized, fragile, weakened, dry and/or atopic-prone skin and/or mucous membranes.

[0006] Particularly surprisingly, the Applicant has discovered that an extract of Gentiana crassicau/is has the property of preventing and/or reducing one or more unsightly and/or unpleasant and/or uncomfortable manifestations of healthy skin and/or mucous membranes. selected from sensitive and/or sensitized and/or fragile and/or weakened and/or dry and/or atopic-prone skin and/or mucous membranes. Very unexpectedly, this Gentiana crassicau/is extract is particularly useful for soothing healthy skin and/or mucous membranes and/or increasing and/or maintaining the comfort of healthy skin and/or mucous membranes and/or reducing and/or preventing the sensitivity of the healthy skin and/or mucous membrane and/or increase and/or maintain the hydration of the healthy skin and/or mucous membrane. The Applicant has in particular discovered that the extract of Gentiana crassicau/is advantageously makes it possible to improve and/or maintain the skin and/or mucosal barrier of healthy skin and/or mucosa.

[0007] The extract according to the invention also has the advantage of being an easily formulated ingredient, and can be easily manufactured on an industrial scale. It is an active ingredient topically acceptable for the skin and/or mucous membranes, which does not present any risk of allergy.

[0008] The Gentiana crassicau/is plant is a perennial herbaceous plant from the province of Qinghai on the Tibetan plateau, also present more widely in Asia, in America and Oceania. It grows in mountainous regions, wastelands, meadows, forest edges and forests at altitudes of 2100 to 4500 meters.

[0009] It is part of a group of medicinal plants, long referred to globally under the term Gentiana macrophylla commonly called Qinjiao in Chinese) and belonging to the Gentianaceae family and the genus Gentiana (G.). Qinjiao thus designates a group of long-undissociated plants mainly containing G.macrophylla Pallas, G.straminea Maximowicz, G.dahurica Fischer and G.crassicaulis Duthie ex Burkill. The use of Qinjiao plants has been described in the Chinese Pharmacopoeia, for the treatment of rheumatism, arthralgia, apoplexy, jaundice and diabetes, in Tibetan medicine for the treatment of tonsillitis and hives. Pharmacological studies have also shown that Qinjiao plants exhibit anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, hepato-protective, cardio- and neuro-protective activities (Zhang X et al; Botany, traditional use, phytochemistry, pharmacology, quality control, and authentication of Radix Gentianae Macrophyllae-A traditional medicine: A review; Phytomedicine, 2018, 46, 142-163).

[0010] Applications have already described the use of an extract of Gentiana crassicauiis in cosmetics. Thus patent application CN 106137812 describes the use of an extract of Gentiana macrophylla obtained by a specific extraction process in a cosmetic composition, as active agents for inhibiting tyrosinase and elastase and as an antioxidant.

[0011]Thus, to the knowledge of the Applicant, the topical cosmetic use of an extract of Gentiana crassicauiis as an active ingredient for the cosmetic treatment and/or cosmetic care of healthy skin and/or mucous membranes selected from among the skins and/or sensitive and/or sensitized and/or fragile and/or weakened and/or dry and/or atopic-prone mucous membranes, in particular sensitive skin, in particular to prevent and/or reduce one or more unsightly and/or unpleasant manifestations and/or uncomfortable to healthy skin and/or mucous membranes was not described. Furthermore, it was also not known that an extract of Gentiana crassicauhs' is particularly useful for soothing healthy skin and/or mucous membrane and/or increasing and/or maintaining the comfort of healthy skin and/or mucous membrane and/or decreasing and /or prevent sensitivity of healthy skin and/or mucous membranes and/or increase and/or maintain hydration of healthy skin and/or mucous membranes. It was also not known that an extract of Gentiana crassicauh's was particularly useful for improving and/or maintaining the skin and/or mucosal barrier of healthy skin and/or mucosa.

[0012] Likewise, the use of an extract of Gentiana crassicauh's for the dermatological treatment of skin and/or mucous membranes having an altered skin and/or mucosal barrier, in particular reactive, intolerant, allergic skin and/or mucous membranes, atopic and/or irritated was not known.

Presentation of the invention

[0013] The present invention has as its first object the non-therapeutic cosmetic use of an extract of Gentiana crassicauhs' for the cosmetic treatment and/or cosmetic care of healthy skin and/or mucous membranes, in particular to prevent and/or reduce a or several unsightly and/or unpleasant and/or uncomfortable manifestations of healthy skin and/or mucous membranes having a weakened skin and/or mucosal barrier. This concerns in particular healthy skin and/or mucous membranes selected from sensitive and/or sensitized and/or fragile and/or weakened and/or dry and/or atopic-prone skin and/or mucous membranes, preferably sensitive skin. The unsightly and/or unpleasant and/or uncomfortable manifestations of this healthy skin and/or mucous membranes are advantageously chosen from tingling, itching, dryness, a feeling of heat or overheating, tension, tingling, tightness, redness and/or a mixture of these manifestations.

[0014] According to a particular embodiment, the present invention also relates to the non-therapeutic cosmetic use of an extract of Gentiana crassicauh's to soothe the skin and/or healthy mucous membrane and/or increase and/or maintain the comfort of healthy skin and/or mucous membrane and/or decrease and/or prevent the sensitivity of the skin and/or healthy mucous membrane and/or increase and/or maintain the hydration of the skin and/or healthy mucous membrane, the healthy skin and/or mucous membrane being in particular selected from sensitive skin and/or mucous membranes and /or sensitized and/or fragile and/or weakened and/or dry and/or with atopic tendency, preferably sensitive skin.

[0015] The extract of Gentiana crassicauiis according to the invention can also be used to improve and/or maintain the skin and/or mucosal barrier of healthy skin and/or mucosa.

[0016] The present invention also relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic treatment process characterized in that it comprises application topically, to at least one area of healthy skin and/or mucous membrane, in particular selected from the skin and /or sensitive and/or sensitized and/or fragile and/or weakened and/or dry and/or atopic-prone mucous membrane, of an extract of Gentiana crassicauiis according to the invention or of a cosmetic composition comprising it, for the treatment cosmetic and/or cosmetic care of said healthy skin and/or mucous membranes, in particular sensitive skin, in particular to prevent and/or reduce one or more unsightly and/or unpleasant and/or uncomfortable manifestations of said healthy skin and/or mucous membranes, preferably chosen from tingling, itching, dryness, a feeling of warmth or heating, tension, tingling, tightness, redness, and/or a mixture of these manifestations. The present invention also relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic treatment process characterized in that it comprises application topically, to at least one area of healthy skin and/or mucous membrane, in particular selected from the skin and/or mucous membrane. sensitive and/or sensitized and/or fragile and/or weakened and/or dry and/or with an atopic tendency, of an extract of Gentiana crassicauiis according to the invention or of a cosmetic composition comprising it, to soothe said skin and/ or healthy mucous membrane and/or increase and/or maintain the comfort of said healthy skin and/or mucous membrane and/or reduce and/or prevent the sensitivity of said healthy skin and/or mucous membrane and/or increase and/or maintain hydration of said healthy skin and/or mucous membrane. The present invention has also subject to a cosmetic treatment process characterized in that it comprises application topically, to at least one area of healthy skin and/or mucous membrane, in particular selected from sensitive and/or sensitized skin and/or mucous membrane and /or fragile and/or weakened and/or dry and/or with an atopic tendency, of an extract of Gentiana crassicauiis according to the invention or of a cosmetic composition comprising it to improve and/or maintain the skin barrier and/ or mucosal of said healthy skin and/or mucous membrane.

[0017] The invention also relates to an extract of Gentiana crassicauiis or a dermatological composition comprising it, for its use topically to treat and/or prevent and/or reduce the occurrence of pathologies linked to skin irritation. and/or pathological mucosa and/or the increase in its irritation and/or linked to the alteration of the skin and/or mucosal barrier of the skin and/or pathological mucosa and/or the increase in its alteration and /or linked to a sharp reduction in the hydration of the skin and/or pathological mucosa, the skin and/or pathological mucosa being in particular reactive, intolerant, allergic, atopic and/or irritated skin and/or mucosa, the pathologies being for example xerosis, rosacea, atopic dermatitis, psoriasis, ichthyosis, in particular pathological scaling, for example scaling known as Peeling Skin Syndrome, irritation, eczema. The invention further relates to an extract of Gentiana crassicauiis or a dermatological composition comprising it, for its use topically to treat and/or prevent and/or reduce alterations of the cutaneous and/or mucosal barrier of the skin and /or pathological mucosa accompanying certain pathologies such as diabetes, shingles, fibromyalgia and quadriplegia. Preferably, the pathological skin and/or mucosa is skin and/or mucosa devoid of inflammation.

[0018] According to a particular mode, the invention also relates to an extract of Gentiana crassicauiis or a dermatological composition comprising it, for its use to reduce and/or prevent irritation of the skin and/or pathological mucous membrane linked to a alteration of the cutaneous and/or mucosal barrier, the skin and/or pathological mucous membrane being selected from reactive, intolerant, allergic, atopic, irritated skin and/or mucous membranes.

[0019] For the purposes of the present invention, the term “cosmetic use” means a non-pharmaceutical use, that is to say one which is not intended for therapeutic use nor for the prevention and/or treatment of skin and/or mucous membranes qualified as pathological by a specialist in the field, such as a dermatologist but is intended for and/or applied to a so-called healthy part of the body, in particular to an area of so-called healthy skin and/or mucous membrane.

The term “skin” means any area of skin on any part of the body and/or face, including the scalp, advantageously the face.

[0021] According to the invention, the term “mucosa(s)” means the nasal, ocular mucosa, the vaginal mucosa, the urogenital mucosa, the anal mucosa, the oral, labial and/or gingival mucosa, preferably, the ocular and/or oral and/or labial and/or nasal mucous membranes.

[0022] For the purposes of the present invention, “healthy skin and/or mucous membrane” means an area of skin and/or mucous membrane to which the extract or composition according to the invention is applied and called “non-pathological” by a dermatologist, that is to say not presenting pathologies linked to irritation of the skin and/or pathological mucous membrane and/or to the increase in its irritation and/or linked to the alteration of the skin barrier and/or mucosal of the skin and/or pathological mucosa and/or an increase in its alteration and/or linked to a sharp reduction in the hydration of the skin and/or pathological mucosa, infection, scar, disease, inflammation or skin condition such as bacterial infection, by fungi, insects and/or other parasites, in particular mites, candidiasis, impetigo, psoriasis, eczema, xerosis, rosacea, irritation, ichthyosis, in particular pathological desquamation, for example peeling known as Peeling Skin Syndrome, acne or dermatitis, especially atopic dermatitis, or urticaria, especially contact, or from sores or wounds or ulceration, or from burns and/or other dermatoses or alterations of the cutaneous and/or mucosal barrier of the skin and/or pathological mucosa accompanying certain pathologies such as diabetes, shingles, fibromyalgia and quadriplegia. Preferably, the healthy skin and/or mucous membrane is non-inflamed and/or non-inflammatory. It is therefore not a question of reactive, intolerant, allergic, atopic and/or irritated skin and/or mucous membranes.

[0023] According to an advantageous embodiment of the invention, healthy skin and/or mucosa is characterized in that it has a weakened skin and/or mucosal barrier. However, advantageously this barrier is not altered.

[0024] "sensitive skin and/or mucous membranes" means skin and/or mucous membranes which are characterized by sensory perceptions in response to stimuli and will be characterized by one or more unsightly and/or unpleasant and/or manifestations. uncomfortable. The sensitive skin and/or mucous membrane can thus be estimated by the subject himself with subjective skin sensations or by the dermatologist with objective skin reactions. These are skins and/or mucous membranes which, by nature, have very little tolerance for aggressive agents/aggressive conditions.

[0025] External stimuli or substances which induce or aggravate unsightly and/or unpleasant and/or uncomfortable manifestations of the skin and/or sensitive mucous membranes are for example environmental/climatic factors (UV radiation, heat, cold or temperature change). , wind, dry air, pollution), lifestyle factors (air conditioning, diet, alcohol consumption, clothing), chemicals (surfactants such as sodium lauryl sulfate, soaps, shampoos, heavy metals, detergents, compounds contained in cosmetic treatments such as perfumes, preservatives, alcohols, pH, AHA or dermatological such as vitamin A acid), or other sensitizing agents, aggressive conditions including perspiration and mechanical attacks such as hair removal, shaving, rubbing and even particularly hard water and/or other endogenous factors such as emotions, genetic predispositions, hormonal state (eg menstruation) and stress. Sensitive skin and/or mucous membranes are not pathological skin and/or mucous membranes unlike allergic skin. [0026] In a preferred mode, the external stimuli or substances which induce or aggravate the unsightly and/or unpleasant and/or uncomfortable manifestations of the sensitive skin and/or mucous membrane do not include fungi, bacteria or even insects or other parasites such as moths.

[0027] The sensitivity of the skin and/or mucous membrane is multifactorial but generally results in a weakening of the barrier function. Normally, the stratum corneum forms a barrier maintaining water content and preventing the penetration of harmful chemicals and microorganisms. In the event of a weakening of the skin and/or mucosal barrier, substances and/or microorganisms can penetrate and cause unsightly, unpleasant and/or uncomfortable manifestations, typical of sensitive skin and/or mucous membranes. This weakening is generally accompanied by an increase in imperceptible water losses. It is therefore also important to maintain the barrier function of the stratum corneum to maintain the water content of the skin and thus avoid skin dryness and the vicious cycle of skin sensitivity.

[0028] The skin and/or mucous membrane can nevertheless react to aggressive agents and/or conditions with unsightly and/or unpleasant and/or uncomfortable manifestations. Unsightly and uncomfortable manifestations can be generalized throughout the body, but most of the time they can have well-defined locations such as the scalp, face, skin folds, buttocks in infants, etc. These may therefore be areas of sensitive skin and/or mucous membranes.

[0029] For the purposes of the present invention, “cosmetic treatment and/or cosmetic care of healthy skin and/or mucous membranes” means preventing and/or reducing and/or eliminating the perception of unsightly manifestations and/or or unpleasant and/or uncomfortable for healthy skin and/or mucous membranes, selected from sensitive and/or sensitized and/or fragile and/or weakened and/or dry and/or atopic-prone skin and/or mucous membranes, preferably sensitive skin . [0030] The term “unsightly and/or unpleasant and/or uncomfortable manifestations” means subjective unpleasant sensations of skin discomfort such as tingling, itching, dryness, a feeling of heat or overheating, tension, tingling, tightness, redness, in response to stimuli that do not normally produce such manifestations, preferably tingling, dryness, a feeling of heat or heating, tension, tingling or tightness.

[0031] These manifestations are not linked to inflammation.

The unsightly and/or unpleasant and/or uncomfortable manifestations are those of healthy skin and/or mucous membranes, preferably sensitive, sensitized, fragile, weakened, dry skin and/or mucous membranes with an atopic tendency.

[0033] The term “sensitized skin and/or mucous membranes” means healthy skin and/or mucous membranes made temporarily sensitive and therefore not pathological as such, and whose barrier function is weakened.

[0034] By “fragile or weakened skin and/or mucous membrane (that is to say made temporarily fragile)” is meant healthy skin and/or mucous membrane whose barrier function is weakened. This state may be linked to the condition of the individual, and/or linked to age, the elderly and infants having fragile skin for example. This state can also result from chemical or physical attack (abrasion, friction, cuts).

[0035] According to a preferred mode, the skin and/or mucous membrane is not made sensitive, sensitized, fragile or weakened by fungi, bacteria or even other parasites such as insects, for example moths.

The term “dry skin and/or mucosa” means skin and/or mucosa marked by tightness over the entire face and body caused by a weakening of the skin and/or mucosal barrier. Fine, with tight texture and redness, the skin and/or mucous membrane is lacking in water and lipids and needs to be hydrated. [0037] By “skin and/or mucous membrane with an atopic tendency” is meant healthy skin and/or mucous membrane which is extremely fragile and/or weakened, whose permeability is increased due to the weakened barrier function and which is genetically predisposed to evolve under the effect of multiple intrinsic and extrinsic factors towards a pathological state which is atopic dermatitis. Thus, the character “skin and/or mucosa with atopic tendency” can be estimated by the subject himself with subjective cutaneous and/or mucosal sensations or by the dermatologist with objective cutaneous and/or mucosal reactions.

[0038] The unsightly and/or unpleasant and/or uncomfortable manifestations of sensitized, fragile and/or weakened, dry and/or atopic-prone skin and/or mucous membranes are the same as for sensitive skin and/or mucous membranes, without these manifestations and/or conditions of the skin and/or mucous membranes do not relate to the prevention and/or treatment of a pathology.

[0039] The unsightly and/or unpleasant and/or uncomfortable manifestations of healthy skin and/or mucous membranes can be generalized to the entire body and/or the face and/or the scalp, but most of the time they can have well-defined locations such as for example the face including the forehead, cheeks, nose, temples, the T zone (forehead, nose and chin), the external ear canal, the chin, and/or the scalp, as well as such as legs, feet, armpits, hands, thighs, stomach, décolleté, neck, arms, torso, back, hips, buttocks, waist, crotch, groin , the mucous membranes such as the labial, oral, ocular or nasal mucosa, areas exposed to polluting agents and/or sensitizing agents such as makeup or soap, such as the eye contour, the circumference lips, areas exposed to temperature variations and/or areas of expression of emotions, such as the cheeks, neckline, hands and/or shaved areas and/or maceration areas such as the seat of the infant, fold areas such as the armpits, back of the elbows, back of the knees, buttocks, crotch, groin, neck, and/or excessively cleaned areas. [0040] What is meant by “weakened skin and/or mucosal barrier” is a temporary or constitutional imbalance in the barrier function expressed by a reduction in homeostasis, without being linked to, caused by or responsible for pathology. This reduction in barrier function can promote dehydration through an increase in transient water losses (TEWL), and exposes you to a risk of penetration of undesirable agents. This state of weakened barrier may be linked to the condition of the individual, and/or linked to age, the elderly and infants thus having a weakened skin and/or mucosal barrier for example. This state can also result from chemical or physical attack (abrasion, friction, cuts).

[0041] By “soothing the healthy skin and/or mucous membrane” is meant to prevent and/or reduce one or more of the unsightly and/or unpleasant and/or uncomfortable manifestations of the healthy skin and/or mucous membrane by an action of strengthening the barrier. weakened skin and/or mucosa of healthy skin and/or mucosa.

[0042] what is meant by “increase and/or maintain the comfort of the skin and/or healthy mucosa” is to promote and/or increase and/or maintain the hydration of the skin and/or healthy mucosa, in particular by an action of improve and/or maintain and/or strengthen the cutaneous and/or mucosal barrier of healthy skin and/or mucosa.

[0043] What is meant by “reducing and/or preventing the sensitivity of the skin and/or healthy mucosa” is improving and/or maintaining the skin and/or mucosal barrier of the healthy skin and/or mucosa to thus prevent and/or reduce one or more unsightly and/or unpleasant and/or uncomfortable manifestations of healthy skin and/or mucous membranes, in particular sensitive and/or sensitized and/or fragile and/or weakened and/or dry and/or atopic-prone skin.

[0044] "preventing and/or reducing one or more unsightly and/or unpleasant and/or uncomfortable manifestations of healthy skin and/or mucous membranes" means preventing and/or reducing and/or making unpleasant sensations and/or perceptions disappear. cutaneous and/or mucosal, subjective or real and/or the visibility of unsightly and/or uncomfortable and/or undesirable manifestations such as tingling, itching, dryness, a feeling of heat or overheating, tension, tingling, tightness, redness, preferably tingling, dryness, a feeling of heat or warmth, tension, tingling or tightness.

[0045] "Increase and/or maintain hydration" means increasing and/or maintaining the water content in the stratum corneum, including after the reduction thereof induced by the use of a surfactant. , notably SLS, notably through an action on the skin barrier.

[0046] The measurement of the hydration of the healthy skin and/or mucous membrane can be studied using measurement techniques known to those skilled in the art, in particular can for example be carried out in vivo, by Corneometer. This in vivo measurement method consists of measuring the variation of the dielectric constant. Water is the substance with the highest dielectric constant on the skin. When the water content changes, the skin capacity value also changes, so the water content of the skin surface can be analyzed by measuring the skin capacity value.

[0047] Advantageously, the measurement of the increase in hydration is carried out on a population of men or women having itching and/or tightness and/or sensations of heat in the face, preferably by application of a formulation containing the extract of Gentiana crassicauiis prepared according to example 1a, under the conditions described in example 2, by similarity that is to say apart from irritation created by the occlusive patch.

[0048] In a preferred embodiment of the invention, the extract of Gentiana crassicauiis according to the invention is in an effective quantity to increase and/or maintain the hydration of the skin and/or healthy mucous membrane, when the the extract, in particular in the form of a cosmetic composition according to the invention, increases by at least 50%, preferably by at least 60%, the level of skin hydration after dehydration induced by the SLS patch, from 4 hours of application of the extract according to the invention, in particular in the form of a cosmetic composition according to the invention, in relation to the level of skin hydration detected before application.

[0049] What is meant by “improve and/or maintain the skin and/or mucosal barrier” is to strengthen and/or maintain the function of the skin and/or mucosal barrier by an action to reduce and/or reduce insensible water losses ( or also called transepidermal water loss), and/or accelerate and/or improve the strengthening of the skin and/or mucosal barrier after its weakening due to the action of a surfactant.

[0050] The measurement of the imperceptible loss of water can be studied by measurement techniques known to those skilled in the art, in particular can for example be carried out in vivo, by Tewameter. This in vivo measurement method consists of measuring the water vapor pressure gradient formed by the loss of water dispersion of the stratum corneum near the epidermis (within a radius of approximately 1 cm), and the The amount of water evaporated through the epidermis is measured directly to determine water loss from the skin surface. A lower value represents lower transepidermal water loss and therefore better skin barrier function.

[0051] Advantageously, the measurement of the reduction in imperceptible water losses is carried out on a population of men or women having itching and/or tightness and/or sensations of heat in the face, preferably by application of a formulation containing the extract of Gentiana crassicauiis prepared according to example 1a, under the conditions described in example 2, by similarity that is to say apart from irritation created by the occlusive patch.

[0052] In a preferred embodiment of the invention, the Gentiana crassicauiis extract according to the invention is in an effective quantity to improve and/or maintain the skin and/or mucosal barrier of healthy skin and/or mucosa, when the extract, in particular in the form of a cosmetic composition according to the invention, reduces the TEWL of the surface of the skin induced by the SLS patch by at least 10%, preferably by at least 14%, from 4 hours application of the extract according to the invention, in particular in the form of a cosmetic composition according to the invention, relative to the TEWL detected before application.

[0053] The Gentiana crassicauh's extract can be any part of the plant, such as the roots and/or aerial parts including the leaves, flowers and/or stem. Advantageously, the extract of Gentiana crassicauhs' is a root extract.

[0054] According to one embodiment, the extract of Gentiana crassicauhs' is an extract which contains loganic acid and/or one or more of its derivatives. Preferably the Gentiana crassicauh's extract has a loganic acid content equal to or greater than 0.1% (w/w), more preferably equal to or greater than 0.5% (w/w) relative to the total weight of dry matter of the extract.

[0055] What is meant by “loganic acid” is an iridoid glycoside, of formula C16H24O10.

The term “loganic acid derivatives” means a salt, a carboxylate, an acid chloride, an acid anhydride, an ester, an amide obtained from loganic acid.

The extract according to the present invention is obtained by any extraction method known to those skilled in the art chosen from hot decoction, maceration, extrusion, extraction under subcritical conditions, assisted extraction by ultrasound, with or without grinding such as ultrasonic grinding or using a blender. Advantageously, the extract is obtained by maceration and more advantageously by maceration with stirring.

[0058] “Extraction in subcritical conditions” means extraction in the presence of water, under conditions of temperature greater than 100° C. and pressure less than or equal to 22.1 MPa (221 bars), such as Water remains in a liquid state but has a lower viscosity and surface tension than water at room temperature, increasing its dielectric constant.

[0059] The extraction could be carried out from dry or fresh plant material, advantageously dry, in quantities of 1% to 90% by weight, advantageously from 5% to 50%, very advantageously from 10% to 25%, in weight of plant material relative to the total weight of the plant material and the extraction solvent.

[0060] The extraction can be carried out at a temperature ranging from 4°C to 300°C, including ambient temperature, that is to say a temperature of approximately 20°C. In a preferred embodiment of the invention, the extraction will be carried out at a temperature ranging from 20°C to 150°C, preferably from 20°C to 80°C.

[0061] The extraction can be carried out over a period of a few seconds to 24 hours, preferably from 1 minute to 12 hours, more preferably over a period of 5 minutes to 5 hours, more preferably over a period ranging from 0.5 hour at 3 o'clock.

The extraction can be repeated as many times as necessary with conditions identical or different from the first extraction, preferably the extraction is renewed once, under the same conditions as the first extraction.

The solvent may be chosen from water, or a mixture of solvents, preferably a protic polar solvent. It is advantageously chosen from water, an alcohol, a glycol, a polyol, a water/alcohol, water/glycol or water/polyol mixture (such as water mixed with ethanol, glycerol and/or butylene glycol and/or or other glycols such as xylitol and/or propanediol, etc.) from 99/1 to 1/99 (w/w), preferably it is the mixture of water/alcohol solvents, more preferably water/ethanol, advantageously it is This is pure ethanol as the sole solvent, that is to say containing at least 95% ethanol (v/v), advantageously at least 99% ethanol (v/v).

[0064] In particular, the extract is obtained by hydroalcoholic extraction. For the purposes of the present invention, the term “extract obtained by hydro-alcoholic extraction” means any extract obtained by extraction with an alcoholic solution, preferably ethanolic, containing more than 20% by weight, advantageously at least 30% by weight of alcohol. , preferably ethanol relative to the total weight of the solution. [0065] According to a preferred method, the extract is obtained by maceration in a mixture of water/ethanol solvents.

[0066] According to an even more preferential method, the extract is obtained by maceration in pure ethanol as the sole solvent, that is to say containing at least 95% ethanol (v/v), advantageously at least 99% ethanol (v/v).

[0067] According to a preferred method, the Gentiana crassicau/is extract is used alone, in particular in the form of active ingredient. Said extract according to the invention can be in dry form, that is to say in powder form. Advantageously, it will be obtained according to the protocol as described for example in example 1.b.

[0068] According to another preferred mode, the Gentiana crassicau/is extract is in the form of an active ingredient in dry form, that is to say in powder form, advantageously in combination with maltodextrin, preferably with an extract content of 1% to 99% (w/w) by weight, more preferably with an extract content of 5% to 60% (w/w) by weight, advantageously from 20% to 60% (p /p) by weight and even more advantageously from 30% to 50% (w/w) by weight of extract relative to the total weight of powder, which includes both the extract and the maltodextrin. Advantageously, it will be obtained according to the protocol as described for example in example l.a.

[0069] According to a preferred alternative mode, the Gentiana crassicau/is extract according to the invention can be found in the form of an active ingredient in liquid form and/or diluted in a solvent preferably in an extract content of 0 .1% to 99% (w/w), more preferably in an extract content of 0.1% to 50% (w/w), advantageously in an extract content of 0.1% to 20% ( w/w) and even more advantageously in an extract content of 1% to 10% (w/w) relative to the total weight of liquid comprising the extract and the solvent. Preferably, this solvent contains less than 50% (w/w) of water, still preferably less than 40% (w/w) of water. Very preferably, this solvent is hydro-glycolic or hydro-glyceric. Advantageously, it will be obtained according to the protocol as described for example in example lc and/or ld [0070] According to the invention, the Gentiana crassicauhs' extract according to the invention can be used alone, in the form of active ingredient and/or in a cosmetic and/or dermatological composition.

[0071] In an advantageous embodiment, the Gentiana crassicauh's extract according to the invention is not used in association with or in a composition containing rhizoma typhonii and/or notopterygium, and/or roots of Divaricate saposhnikovia , and/or Angelica sinensis, and/or angelica roots and/or Radix paeoniae rubra and/or scorpions, and/or Ligusticum wallichii, and/or cassia twigs, and/or licorice , and/or Rhizoma arisaematis and/or cholamine.

[0072] In another advantageous embodiment, the Gentiana crassicauh's extract according to the invention is intended for or can be incorporated into a cosmetic composition, further comprising at least one cosmetically acceptable excipient, for topical administration on healthy skin and/or mucous membranes.

[0073]Thus, advantageously the cosmetic composition is intended for topical application to healthy skin and/or mucous membranes.

[0074] Alternatively, the Gentiana crassicauhs' extract according to the invention can be presented in all the galenic forms conventionally used for topical application.

The term “cosmetic ingredient” means one or more plant extracts and/or one or more natural or synthetic molecules and/or their mixtures intended for a cosmetic application. Cosmetic ingredients are defined in particular by the international nomenclature of cosmetic ingredients (INCI).

[0076] The term “cosmetic composition” means a non-therapeutic composition, that is to say one which is not intended for therapeutic use nor for the prevention and/or treatment of skin and/or mucous membranes classified as pathological by a specialist in the field, such as a dermatologist but which is intended for and/or applied topically to a so-called part of the body healthy, in particular on an area of the skin and/or mucous membrane, called healthy, further comprising at least one cosmetically acceptable excipient.

[0077] For the purposes of the present invention, the term “topical route” means the direct local application and/or vaporization of the Gentiana crassicau/is extract or of the composition comprising it according to the invention on the surface. of the area of skin and/or mucous membrane to be treated. Thus, the composition can be applied topically to all or part of the body and/or face and/or scalp, in particular human, preferably on specific parts of the body chosen from the face (including the forehead, cheeks , nose, temples, T zone (forehead, nose and chin), external ear canal, chin), and/or scalp, as well as legs, feet, armpits, hands, thighs , stomach, décolleté, neck, arms, torso, back, hips, buttocks, waist, crotch, groin, mucous membranes such as the labial, oral, ocular or nasal mucosa , areas exposed to polluting agents and/or sensitizing agents such as makeup or soap, such as for example the eye contour, around the lips, areas exposed to temperature variations and/or areas of expression of emotions, such as the cheeks, neckline, hands and/or shaved areas and/or maceration areas such as the infant's seat, fold areas such as the armpits, the back of the elbows , back of knees, buttocks, crotch, groin, neck, and/or excessively cleaned areas.

[0078] According to one embodiment, the use of the extract according to the present invention and/or of a composition comprising it is a topical use, on all or part of the body and/or face and/or of the scalp, in particular human, preferably on specific parts of the body chosen from the face (including the forehead, cheeks, nose, temples, the T zone (forehead, nose and chin), the external auditory canal, the chin), and/or scalp, as well as legs, feet, armpits, hands, thighs, stomach, décolleté, neck, arms, torso, back, hips, buttocks , the waist, the crotch, the groin, the mucous membranes such as the labial, oral, ocular or nasal mucosa, areas exposed to polluting agents and/or sensitizing agents such as makeup or soap, such as for example the eye contour, around the lips, areas exposed to temperature variations and/or areas of expression of emotions, such as for example the cheeks, neckline, hands and/or shaved areas and/or maceration areas such as the infant's seat, fold areas such as the armpits, the back of the elbows, the back of the knees, the buttocks, crotch, groin, neck, and/or excessively cleaned areas.

[0079] Advantageously, the Gentiana crassicau/is extract or the composition comprising it according to the invention is intended to be applied topically to specific parts of the body chosen from the skin of the face, including the forehead, the cheeks, nose, temples, T zone (forehead, nose and chin), external ear canal, chin, and/or scalp and/or neck and/or décolleté.

[0080] The cosmetic composition or the extract of Gentiana crassicau/is se\on the invention possibly in the form of a cosmetic ingredient, can be presented in all the galenic forms conventionally used for topical application or oral administration, in particular topical such as liquid or solid forms or even in the form of liquid under pressure. They may in particular be formulated in the form of an aqueous or oily solution, an aqueous cream or gel or an oily gel, in particular in a pot or tube, in particular a shower gel, a shampoo, a milk, an emulsion, a hydrogel, a microemulsion or a nanoemulsion, in particular oil-in-water or water-in-oil or multiple or silicone, a serum, a lotion, in particular in a glass or plastic bottle or in a measuring bottle or in an aerosol, an ampoule, a liquid soap, a paste, a dermatological bar, an ointment, a foam, an aerosol, a mask, a patch, an anhydrous product, preferably liquid, pasty or solid, for example in the form of a stick, particularly in stick or powder form , especially makeup. In particular, the composition is in the form of a serum, a lotion, a cream, a milk, an ointment, a paste, a foam, an emulsion, a hydrogel, a shower gel, an aerosol, a mask, a stick, a patch, or makeup powders, advantageously a cream or a lotion. [0081] In an advantageous embodiment, the Gentiana crassicauhs' extract is in the form of a cosmetic composition comprising said extract at a concentration of between lxl0' ⁴ % and 10% (w/w) by weight, preferably between lxl0' ³ % and 10% (w/w) by weight, advantageously between lxl0' ³ % and 3% (w/w) by weight, more preferably between 0.01% and 3% (w/w) by weight , and even more preferably between 0.01% and 1% (w/w) by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, said composition further comprising at least one cosmetically acceptable excipient.

[0082] For the purposes of the present invention, “cosmetically acceptable excipient” means a topically acceptable compound and/or solvent, that is to say one which does not induce an allergic response upon contact with the skin and/or or mucous membrane, including human scalp, non-toxic, non-unstable, non-incompatible, chemically.

The compositions according to the invention may contain any suitable solvent and/or any suitable vehicle and/or any suitable excipient, optionally in combination with other compounds of interest.

[0084] Therefore, for these compositions, the excipient contains for example at least one compound chosen from the group comprising preservatives, emollients, emulsifiers, surfactants, moisturizers, thickeners, conditioners, mattifying agents. , stabilizers, antioxidants, texture agents, shine agents, film-forming agents, solubilizers, pigments, dyes, perfumes and sun filters. These excipients are preferably chosen from the group consisting of amino acids and their derivatives, polyglycerols, esters, polymers and cellulose derivatives, lanolin derivatives, phospholipids, lactoferrins, lactoperoxidases, stabilizers based on sucrose, vitamins E and its derivatives, natural and synthetic waxes, vegetable oils, triglycerides, unsaponifiables, phytosterols, plant esters, silicones and its derivatives, protein hydrolysates, Jojoba oil and its derivatives derivatives, lipo/water-soluble esters, betaines, aminoxides, plant extracts, Sucrose esters, Titanium dioxides, glycines, and parabens, and more preferably from the group consisting of butylene glycol, 2-steareth, 21-steareth, 15-glycol stearyl ether, cetearyl alcohol, phenoxyethanol, methylparaben, ethylparaben, propylparaben, butylparaben, butylene glycol, natural tocopherols, glycerin, dihydroxycetyl sodium phosphate, isopropyl hydroxycetyl ether, glycol stearate, triisononanoin, octyl cocoate, polyacrylamide, isoparaffin, laureth-7, a carbomer, propylene glycol, glycerol, bisabolol, dimethicone, sodium hydroxide, PEG 30-dipolyhydroxysterate, capric/caprylic triglycerides, cetearyl octanoate, dibutyl adipate, grapeseed oil, jojoba oil , magnesium sulfate, EDTA, cyclomethicone, xanthan gum, citric acid, sodium lauryl sulfate, mineral waxes and oils, isostearyl isostearate, propylene glycol dipelargonate, isostearate propylene glycol, PEG 8, beeswax, hydrogenated palm heart oil glycerides, hydrogenated palm oil glycerides, lanolin oil, sesame oil, cetyl lactate, alcohol lanolin, castor oil, titanium dioxide, lactose, sucrose, low density polyethylene, isotonic saline, and mixtures thereof.

[0085] Particularly advantageously, the extract according to the invention is used sequentially or concomitantly with sodium lauryl sulfate, in particular in cosmetic or detergent compositions containing it. This has the advantage of reducing the harmful effects on the skin and/or mucosal barrier.

[0086] Many cosmetically active ingredients are known to those skilled in the art to improve the health and/or physical appearance of the skin (including the scalp) and/or mucous membranes. Those skilled in the art know how to formulate cosmetic, nutraceutical or dermatological compositions to obtain the best effects. On the other hand, these compounds can have a synergistic effect when combined with each other. These combinations are also covered by the present invention. The CTFA (Cosmetic Ingredient Handbook, 2016 Edition) describes different cosmetic and pharmaceutical ingredients commonly used in the cosmetic and pharmaceutical industry, which are in particularly suitable for topical use. Examples of these classes of ingredients include, but are not limited to, the following compounds: abrasives, absorbents, compounds for aesthetic purposes such as perfumes, pigments, dyes, essential oils, astringents, etc. (for example: clove oil, menthol, camphor, eucalyptus oil, eugenol, menthyl lactate, witch hazel distillate), anti-acne agents, anti-flocculating agents, anti-foaming agents, antimicrobial agents (for example: iodopropyl butylcarbamate), antioxidants, binders, biological additives, buffering agents, bulking agents, chelating agents, additives, biocidal agents, denaturants, thickeners, and vitamins, and derivatives or equivalents thereof, film-forming materials, polymers, opacifying agents, pH adjusters, reducing agents, depigmenting or lightening agents (for example: hydroquinone, kojic acid, ascorbic acid, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbyl glucosamine), conditioning agents (for example: humectants).

[0087] The cosmetic composition may also comprise other cosmetic and/or dermatological agents having the same properties and inducing a synergistic effect or not with the Gentiana crassicau/is extract according to the invention, or cosmetic agents with effects complementary.

[0088] The cosmetic composition may also include other active ingredients in the treatment of healthy skin and/or mucous membranes inducing a complementary or synergistic effect with the Gentiana crassicauiis extract according to the invention, chosen for example from:

- a combination of sodium hyaluronate, pullulan and sodium alginate notably marketed in a formulation containing serine, trehalose, urea and glycerin under the name PatcH2O™ by the applicant;

- cosmetic agents intended for the care of sensitive skin such as a plant extract of Cestrum latifolium marketed under the name Symbiocell™ by the applicant, a butter extracted from the fruit of the Irvingia gabonensis tree marketed under the name Irwinol™ by the applicant , an extract of Eperua fa/cata root marketed under the name Eperuline™, an N-acetyl- peptide L-Tyrosyl-L-Prolyl-L-Phenylalanyl-L- Phenylalaninamide (INCI: acetyl tetrapeptide 15) marketed under the name Skinasensyl™ by the applicant.

[0089] The cosmetic composition may also contain one or more other ingredients active on the skin and/or mucosal microbial flora and/or active on the barrier function of the skin, in particular moisturizing and/or soothing active ingredients, including an oligosaccharide obtained by enzymatic synthesis marketed by the company Solabia under the name BioEcolia™ or a complex of alpha-gluco-oligosaccharides marketed by the same company under the name Ecoskin™, an extract of A'/isma p/antago-aquatica, an extract dA' rgania spinosa (Lipofructyl™ Argan), a mixture of ceramides (Sphingoceryl™ VEG), purifying extracts of Boldo (Betapur™), products based on inulin or fructo-oligosaccharides, extracts of bifidobacteria or even a extract of Orthosiphon stamineus to combat oily skin (MAT-XS™ Bright), a natural extract of honey marketed by the applicant under the name Melhydran™ for its moisturizing property, a flax extract marketed under the name Oligolin™ by the applicant, a yeast extract modified by biotechnology and marketed by the applicant under the name Relipidium™, a root extract of Pueraria lobata marketed under the name Inhipase™ by the applicant, an extract of bark of Nephe/ium lappaceum marketed under the name of Nephydrat™ by BASF Beauty Care Solutions, a beta-glucan derivative from baker's yeast marketed by Mibelle under the name CM-Glucan Forte™ and/or an extract of Mirabilis jaiapa marketed under the name Pacifeel™ by Sederma .

[0090] Among other active ingredients which may be combined with the strain according to the invention, it may be a plant extract having properties of preventing the appearance of pigmentation and/or increasing the appearance of pigmentation. the radiance of the complexion, in particular an extract of the mushroom Inonotus ob/iquus marketed under the name Inolixir™ by the applicant, an extract of Argania spinosa oil marketed under the name Arganyl™ by the applicant, an extract of Moringa seeds oieifera marketed under the name Purisoft™ by the applicant, a combination of an extract of Saivia miitiorrhiza and niacinamide marketed under the name ColIRepair™ by the applicant, an extract of A' chillea millefolium marketed under the name Neurobiox™ by the applicant, an extract of Cassia aiata leaves marketed under the name DN-Age™ and/or an extract lychee marketed under the name Litchiderm™ as anti-oxidant active ingredients, a chicory extract marketed under the name Lox-Age™, a yeast extract marketed under the name Vitacell™, an extract of Polygonum bistorta marketed under the name Perlaura™, a galangal extract marketed under the name Hyalufix™, a corn extract marketed under the name Deliner™ or an extract of Voandzeia subterranea marketed under the name Epigenist™ by the applicant or active ingredients promoting skin firmness such as a synthetic tetrapeptide marketed under the name Dermican™, an extract of Hibiscus abelmoschus marketed under the name Linefactor™, a purified extract of pea marketed under the name Proteasyl ™, an extract of Mamlkara multinervis marketed under the name Elestan™ by the applicant. An extract of the Origanum majorana plant marketed under the name Dermagenist™ and/or an extract of Khaya senegaiensis marketed under the name Collalift®18 or an extract comprising phytosterols, in particular beta-sitosterol and/or campesterol and/ or brassicasterol from rapeseed oil and marketed by the applicant under the name Phytosoothe™, may also be added to the cosmetic composition.

[0091]It may also be anti-aging active ingredients and/or tightening agents for a synergistic effect with the Gentiana crassicauiis extract.

Advantageously, these are active ingredients increasing the gene and/or protein expression of collagen or active ingredients preventing the degradation of collagen such as retinol, vitamin C, an extract of Daviiia rugosa marketed under the name Collguard™ by BASF Beauty Care Solutions, a Hibiscus abelmoschus seed extract marketed under the name Linefactor™, a soy protein hydrolyzate extract marketed under the name Phytokine™, a peptide marketed under the name Dermican™ by the applicant or the products marketed under the names of Matrixyl™, Matrixyl 3000™ and Regestril™ by the company Sederma or Neuroguard by the company Codif, or even Eternaline™ by the company Silab.

[0092] These may for example be depigmenting and/or lightening ingredients and/or intended to reduce pigment spots on the skin, such as niacinamide or vitamin B3, arbutin, azelaic acid, ascorbic acid or its derivatives, a combination of plant extracts Saxifraga sarmentosa, Psidium guajava and Carica papaya, marketed by BASF Beauty Care Solutions France under the name Dermawhite™ WF, a combination of sulphites and extracts of Camellia sinensis, Scutellaria baicaiensis , Cucumis sativus, Pyrus malus, marketed under the name Phytolight™ BG, a standardized extract of Lansium domesticum leaves marketed under the name DN-Aura™, a combination of a pea extract and sucrose dilaurate marketed under the name Actiwhite™, derivatives of 4-hydroxyphenoxy acetic acid, in particular 2-(4-hydroxyphenoxy)-propionic acid marketed under the name Radianskin™ by BASF Beauty Care Solutions France, or an extract of purified polysaccharides from Cassia angustifoiia seeds sold under the name Hyalurosmooth™, an extract of stabilized proteases isolated from Carica papaya latex sold under the name X-Pressin™, a cationic liposome encapsulating ferulic acid sold under the name Cytovector ferulic™, or a complex of glycolic acid and L-arginine marketed under the name AH-care™ by BASF Beauty Care Solutions France.

[0093] The tensing agents which can be used in the invention can be chosen from synthetic polymers, such as polyurethane latexes or acrylic latexes, polymers of natural origin, in particular polyholosides in the form of starch or in the form of carrageenans. , alginates, agars, gellans, cellulose polymers and pectins; plant proteins and protein hydrolysates; mixed silicates; wax microparticles; colloidal particles of inorganic filler chosen for example from silica, silica-alumina composites; as well as their mixtures.

[0094] Finally, they may be cosmetic ingredients such as for example antimicrobial agents, anti-free radical agents, soothing, calming or relaxing agents, Tl agents acting on microcirculation to improve the radiance of the complexion, in particular of the face, healing agents or slimming agents. Advantageously, the cosmetic and/or dermatological composition of the present invention also contains one or more tensing agents and/or one or more antimicrobial agents and/or one or more antiradical agents and/or one or more soothing agents and/or a or several slimming agents and/or one or more agents active on the microcirculation.

[0095] Among the antimicrobial agents associated with the Gentiana crassicau/is extract in a preferred mode of the present invention, mention may be made of 2,4,4'-trichloro-2'-hydroxy diphenyl ether (or triclosan), 3,4,4'-trichlorobanilide, phenoxyethanol, phenoxypropanol, phenoxyisopropanol, hexamidine isethionate, metronidazole and its salts, miconazole and its salts, itraconazole, terconazole, econazole, ketoconazole, saperconazole, fluconazole, clotrimazole, butoconazole, oxiconazole, sulfaconazole, sulconazole, terbinafine, undecylenic acid and its salts, benzoyl peroxide, 3-hydroxy benzoic acid, 4-hydroxy benzoic acid -hydroxy benzoic acid, phytic acid, N-acetyl-L-cysteine acid, lipoic acid, azelaic acid and its salts, arachidonic acid, resorcinol, octoxyglycerin, octanoylglycine, caprylyl glycol, 10-hydroxy-2-decanoic acid, farnesol, phytosphingosines and their mixtures.

[0096] The anti-radical agents can be vitamin C and its derivatives including ascorbyl glucoside, phenols and polyphenols, in particular tannins, ellagic acid and tannic acid; epigallocatechin and natural extracts containing it, in particular green tea extracts; anthocyanins; phenolic acids, stilbenes; active scavengers of mono- or polycyclic aromatic compounds, tannins such as ellagic acid and indole derivatives and/or active scavengers of heavy metals such as EDTA, anti-radical active ingredients such as vitamin E and its derivatives such as tocopheryl acetate; bioflavonoids; coenzyme Q10 or ubiquinone.

[0097] As soothing agents included in the composition of the invention, pentacyclic triterpenes, ursolic acid and its salts, ursolic acid and oleanolic acid and its salts, betulinic acid and its salts, salts of salicylic acid and in particular zinc salicylate, bisabolol, Allantoin, unsaturated omega 3 oils, cortisone, hydrocortisone, indomethacin and beta methasone, the anti-inflammatory active ingredients, and in particular those described in application FR2847267, in particular the root extract of Pueraria lobata marketed under the name Inhipase™ by the applicant, the extracts of Theobroma cacao.

[0098] The active ingredients acting on microcirculation, vasoprotectors or vasodilators, can be chosen from flavonoids, ruscogenins, nicotinates and essential oils.

[0099] The slimming active ingredients may be chosen in particular from lipoprotein lipase inhibiting agents such as those described in patent US2003086949 (Coletica) and in particular an extract of the Peruvian liana Uncaria tomentosa, the draining active ingredients, in particular hesperitin laurate ( Flavagrum™), or quercitin caprylate (Flavenger™); agents inhibiting the enzyme phosphodiestarase, activating agents of adenylate cyclase, cAMP and/or active ingredients capable of trapping spermine and/or spermidine. We can cite an extract of Co/eus Forskoh/ii root, an extract of Cecropia obtusa, 'Uva lactuca, caffeine, forskolin, theophylline, theobromine and/or their derivatives, a hydrolyzed kappa carrageenan product called Slimexcess. ™ marketed by the applicant and/or their mixtures.

[0100] Preferably, the cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises one or more cosmetic active ingredients such as moisturizing active ingredients, anti-aging active ingredients, anti-radical active ingredients, active ingredients for sensitive skin, active ingredients improving the skin barrier , active ingredients improving the comfort of the skin, active ingredients reducing redness and irritation, active ingredients for oily skin, active ingredients improving the radiance of the skin, active ingredients reducing pigment spots, active ingredients improving the exfoliation of the skin, active ingredients for acne-prone skin.

[0101] The present invention also relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic treatment process characterized in that it comprises topical application, on at least one area of healthy skin and/or mucous membrane, in particular selected from sensitive and/or sensitized and/or fragile and/or weakened and/or dry and/or atopic-prone skin and/or mucous membrane, of an extract of Gentiana crassicauiis according to the invention or of a cosmetic composition comprising it, for the cosmetic treatment and/or cosmetic care of said healthy skin and/or mucous membranes, in particular sensitive skin, in particular to prevent and/or reduce one or more unsightly and/or unpleasant and/or uncomfortable manifestations of said healthy skin and/or mucous membranes, preferably chosen from tingling, itching, dryness, a feeling of heat or overheating, tension, tingling, tightness, redness , and/or a mixture of these manifestations. The present invention also relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic treatment process characterized in that it comprises application topically, to at least one area of healthy skin and/or mucous membrane, in particular selected from the skin and/or mucous membrane. sensitive and/or sensitized and/or fragile and/or weakened and/or dry and/or with an atopic tendency, of an extract of Gentiana crassicauiis according to the invention or of a cosmetic composition comprising it, to soothe said skin and/ or healthy mucous membrane and/or increase and/or maintain the comfort of said healthy skin and/or mucous membrane and/or reduce and/or prevent the sensitivity of said healthy skin and/or mucous membrane and/or increase and/or maintain hydration of said healthy skin and/or mucous membrane. The present invention also relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic treatment process characterized in that it comprises application topically, to at least one area of healthy skin and/or mucous membrane, in particular selected from the skin and/or mucous membrane. sensitive and/or sensitized and/or fragile and/or weakened and/or dry and/or with an atopic tendency, of an extract of Gentiana crassicauiis according to the invention or of a cosmetic composition comprising it, to improve and/or maintain the skin and/or mucosal barrier of said healthy skin and/or mucosa.

[0102] Advantageously, the Gentiana crassicauiis extract according to the invention, preferably in the form of a cosmetic composition according to the invention, is used in regular topical application and preferably at least one times a day, advantageously twice a day and/or for at least 1 day, preferably for at least 5 days, more preferably for at least 21 days and advantageously for less than 28 days.

[0103] Advantageously, the topical application of an extract of Gentiana crassicau/is according to the invention or of a cosmetic composition comprising it, is carried out on the healthy skin and/or mucous membrane of all or part of the body and/or face and/or scalp, in particular human, preferably on specific parts of the body chosen from the face (including the forehead, cheeks, nose, temples, the T zone (forehead, nose and chin), the external ear canal, the chin), and/or the scalp, as well as the legs, feet, armpits, hands, thighs, stomach, décolleté, neck, arms, torso , back, hips, buttocks, waist, crotch, groin, mucous membranes such as the labial, oral, ocular or nasal mucosa, areas exposed to polluting agents and/or sensitizing agents such as makeup or soap, such as the eye contour, around the lips, areas exposed to temperature variations and/or areas of expression of emotions, such as the cheeks, neckline, hands and/or shaved areas and/or maceration areas such as the infant's seat, fold areas such as the armpits, the back of the elbows, the back of the knees, the buttocks, the crotch, the groin, neck, and/or excessively cleaned areas.

[0104] In an advantageous embodiment of the cosmetic process according to the invention, the cosmetic composition comprises the extract of Gentiana crassicauiis according to the invention at a concentration of lxl0' ⁴ % and 10% (w/w) by weight, preferably between lxl0' ³ % and 10% (w/w) by weight, advantageously between lxl0' ³ % and 3% (w/w) by weight, more preferably between 0.01% and 3% (w/w) in weight, and even more preferably between 0.01% and 1% (w/w) by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, said composition further comprising at least one cosmetically acceptable excipient.

[0105] In an advantageous embodiment the cosmetic treatment method according to the invention to prevent and/or reduce one or more unsightly and/or unpleasant and/or uncomfortable manifestations of the skin and/or healthy mucous membranes, preferably chosen from tingling, itching, dryness, a feeling of heat or overheating, tension, tingling, tightness, redness, and/or a mixture of these manifestations, in particular to soothe the skin and/or healthy mucosa and/or increase and/or maintain the comfort of the skin and/or healthy mucosa and/or reduce and/or prevent the sensitivity of the skin and/or healthy mucosa and/or increase and/or maintain the hydration of the skin and/or healthy mucosa, preferably to improve and/or maintain the skin and/or mucosal barrier, the healthy skin and/or mucosa being chosen from sensitive, sensitized, fragile, weakened skin and/or mucosa , dry and/or with an atopic tendency, in particular sensitive skin, advantageously comprises the following steps:

- The identification on the individual of an area of healthy skin and/or mucous membrane chosen from an area of sensitive, sensitized, fragile, weakened, dry and/or atopic-prone skin and/or mucosa, in particular an area of sensitive skin, for which we wish to prevent and/or reduce one or more of its unsightly and/or unpleasant and/or uncomfortable manifestations, in particular which we wish to soothe and/or increase and/or maintain comfort and/or reduce. and/or prevent sensitivity and/or increase and/or maintain hydration, and/or improve and/or maintain the skin and/or mucosal barrier, and

- Topical application to this area of skin and/or mucous membrane, of the Gentiana crassicau/is extract according to the invention or of a cosmetic composition comprising it, in an effective quantity to prevent and/or reduce one or more of its unsightly and/or unpleasant and/or uncomfortable manifestations, preferably chosen from tingling, itching, dryness, a feeling of heat or overheating, tension, tingling, tightness, redness, and/or a mixture of these manifestations, in particular to soothe and/or increase and/or maintain the comfort of said area of healthy skin and/or mucous membrane and/or reduce and/or prevent sensitivity and/or increase and/or maintain the hydration and/or improve and/or maintain the skin and/or mucosal barrier, particularly in a content of Gentiana crasscau/s extract in the composition advantageously between lxl0' ⁴ % and 10% (w/w) by weight, preferably between lxlO' ³ % and 10% (w/w) by weight, advantageously between lxl0' ³ % and 3% (w/w) by weight, more preferably between 0.01% and 3% (w/w) by weight, and even more preferably between 0.01% and 1% (w/w) by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0106] The invention also relates to an extract of Gentiana crassicau/is or a dermatological composition comprising it, for its use topically to treat and/or prevent and/or reduce the occurrence of pathologies linked to irritation of the skin and/or pathological mucosa and/or the increase in its irritation and/or linked to the alteration of the skin and/or mucosal barrier of the skin and/or pathological mucosa and/or the increase in its alteration and/or linked to a sharp reduction in the hydration of the skin and/or pathological mucous membrane, the pathological skin and/or mucous membrane being in particular reactive, intolerant, allergic, atopic and/or irritated skin and/or mucous membrane, the pathologies being for example xerosis, rosacea, atopic dermatitis, psoriasis, ichthyosis, in particular pathological desquamation, for example desquamation known as Peeling Skin Syndrome, irritation, eczema and/or to treat and/or prevent and/or reduce the occurrence of alterations in the cutaneous and/or mucosal barrier of the skin and/or pathological mucosa accompanying certain pathologies such as diabetes, shingles, fibromyalgia and quadriplegia. Preferably, the pathological skin and/or mucosa is skin and/or mucosa devoid of inflammation.

[0107] In a preferred mode, the extract of Gentiana crassicaulis or dermatological composition comprising it, is for its use topically to treat and/or prevent and/or reduce the occurrence of pathologies linked to irritation of the skin and /or pathological mucosa and/or the increase in its irritation and/or linked to the alteration of the cutaneous and/or mucosal barrier of the skin and/or pathological mucosa and/or the increase in its alteration and/ or linked to a sharp reduction in the hydration of the skin and/or pathological mucosa, the pathological skin and/or mucosa being reactive and/or intolerant skin and/or mucosa, the pathologies being chosen from xerosis, psoriasis, ichthyosis, in particular pathological desquamation, for example desquamation known as Peeling Skin Syndrome, and/or to treat and/or prevent and/or reduce the occurrence of alterations of the cutaneous and/or mucosal barrier of the skin and/or pathological mucosa accompanying pathologies chosen from diabetes, shingles, fibromyalgia and quadriplegia.

[0108] According to a particular mode, the invention also relates to an extract of Gentiana crassicau/is or a dermatological composition comprising it, for its use to reduce and/or prevent irritation of the skin and/or related pathological mucosa. to an alteration of the skin and/or mucosal barrier, the pathological skin and/or mucosa being selected from reactive, intolerant, allergic, atopic and irritated skin and/or mucosa.

[0109] In particular the extract is an extract according to the invention more particularly as described and/or defined above in the present description.

[0110] According to one embodiment, the extract according to the invention is characterized in that it is in the form of a dermatological composition comprising at least one dermatologically acceptable excipient.

[0111] In one embodiment of the invention, said dermatological composition is applied topically.

[0112] According to one embodiment, the dermatological composition is characterized in that the Gentiana crassicau/is extract is present in said composition at a content of between lxl0' ⁴ % and 10% (w/w) by weight, preferably between lxl0' ³ % and 10% (w/w) by weight, advantageously between lxl0' ³ % and 3% (w/w) by weight, more preferably between 0.01% and 3% (w/w) in weight, and even more preferably between 0.01% and 1% (w/w) by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0113] For the purposes of the present invention, the term “reactive skin and/or mucous membrane” means a type of sensitive skin and/or mucous membrane, otherwise called intolerant or allergic or atopic or irritated and characterized as skin and/or mucosa whose tolerance threshold has decreased, following an alteration of the skin and/or mucosal barrier, and which reacts excessively. [0114]The term “alteration of the skin and/or mucosal barrier” means a temporary or permanent anomaly of the skin and/or mucosal barrier induced by and/or accompanying and/or responsible for a pathology, particularly cutaneous. This alteration of the skin barrier may exist or manifest itself in a population having this pathology and/or predisposed to it. This pathology is chosen in particular from xerosis, rosacea, atopic dermatitis, psoriasis, ichthyosis, in particular pathological desquamation, for example desquamation known as Peeling Skin Syndrome, irritation, eczema, but also chosen from a pathology such as diabetes, shingles, fibromyalgia and quadriplegia.

[0115] For the purposes of the present invention, the term “dermatological composition” means a therapeutic composition aimed at treating and/or preventing and/or reducing the occurrence of pathologies linked to irritation of the skin and/or pathological mucous membrane and /or to the increase in its irritation and/or linked to the alteration of the skin and/or mucosal barrier of the skin and/or pathological mucosa and/or to the increase in its alteration, and/or linked to a strong reduction in the hydration of the pathological skin and/or mucous membrane, the pathological skin and/or mucous membrane being in particular reactive, intolerant, allergic, atopic and/or irritated skin and/or mucous membrane, the pathologies being for example xerosis, rosacea, atopic dermatitis, psoriasis, ichthyosis, in particular pathological scaling, for example scaling known as Peeling Skin Syndrome, irritation, eczema and/or to treat and/or prevent and/or reduce the occurrence of alterations in the skin and/or mucosal barrier of the skin and/or pathological mucosa accompanying certain pathologies such as diabetes, shingles, fibromyalgia and quadriplegia. Preferably the pathological skin and/or mucous membrane is skin and/or mucous membrane devoid of inflammation.

[0116]The term “reduce and/or prevent irritation of the pathological skin and/or mucous membrane” is understood to mean reducing and/or reducing the extent of the irritation of irritated skin and/or mucous membrane, in particular the measurement of the reduction of insensible water losses, measurement of the concentration of red blood cells by imaging of cell viability and/or measuring the increase in hydration on irritated skin and/or mucous membranes.

[0117] The measurement of irritation can be studied by measuring the concentration of red blood cells by cell viability imaging (TiVi). This TiVi method which uses a polarization spectroscopy camera, analyzes images taken with the polarized lens and uses the characteristics of red blood cells in blood vessels to absorb green light. It can draw aggregate images of local red blood cells at an average depth of about 0.5mm under the skin to obtain the status of skin blood microcirculation. Skin damage caused by chemical exposure can be studied by this technical device.

[0118] Advantageously, the measurement of the reduction in irritation is carried out on a population of men and women having irritated skin and/or mucous membrane on the face, preferably due to the application of an occlusive patch containing SLS inducing skin irritation, under the conditions described in Example 2, the reduction being measured by comparison with the initial value and after application of a formulation containing the extract of Gentiana crassicau/is prepared according to Example 1.a.

[0119] In a preferred embodiment of the invention, the extract of Gentiana crassicauiis according to the invention is in an effective quantity to reduce and/or prevent irritation of the skin and/or pathological mucous membrane, when the extract , in particular in the form of a dermatological composition according to the invention, reduces by at least 5%, preferably by at least 9%, the concentration of red blood cells after the irritation induced by the SLS patch, from 4 hours of application of the extract according to the invention in particular in the form of a dermatological composition according to the invention, relative to the concentration of red blood cells detected before application.

[0120] According to a preferred mode, the skin and/or pathological mucous membrane is not infested by bacteria, fungi or even other parasites such as insects, for example moths and/or the irritation is not caused by bacteria, fungi or even other parasites such as insects, for example moths.

[0121] The invention will be better understood on reading the description of the examples which follow.

[0122] Examples referring to the description of the invention are presented below. These examples are given for illustration purposes and in no way limit the scope of the invention. Each of the examples has a general scope.

[0123] The examples form an integral part of the present invention and any characteristic appearing new compared to any state of the prior art from the description taken as a whole, including the examples, is an integral part of the invention.

[0124] On the other hand, in the examples, all the percentages are given by weight, unless otherwise indicated, the temperature is expressed in degrees Celsius unless otherwise indicated, and the pressure is atmospheric pressure, unless otherwise indicated.

Examples

Example la: Preparation of Gentiana crassicauh's extract (powder with maltodextrin) according to the invention

[0125] Dried roots of Gentiana crassicauh's were crushed and extracted in 100% pure ethanol, then filtered to obtain a clear liquid which was then loaded onto an ion exchange column. Elution was done with a 25:75 (w/w) water:ethanol mixture and the eluate was concentrated in a vacuum evaporator. The liquid extract obtained was mixed with maltodextrin at a ratio of 40% dry extract to 60% maltodextrin (% w/w). Everything was then freeze-dried to obtain a yellow powder. The product obtained is characterized by a water content < 8.0% (w/w), a loganic acid content > 0.2% (w/w) relative to the total weight of dry matter of the extract, determined by HPLC.

Example 1b: Preparation of Gentiana crassicauiis extract (powder without adjuvant) according to the invention [0126] Dried roots of Gentiana crassicauh's were crushed and extracted in 100% pure ethanol, then filtered to obtain a clear liquid which was then loaded onto an ion exchange column. Elution was done with a 25:75 (w/w) water:ethanol mixture and the eluate was concentrated in a vacuum evaporator. The liquid obtained was then freeze-dried to obtain a yellow powder. The product obtained is characterized by a water content < 8.0% (w/w), and a loganic acid content > 0.5% (w/w) relative to the total weight of dry matter of the extract, determined by HPLC.

Example: Preparation of Gentiana crassicauh's extract (liquid) according to the invention mixed with glycols

[0127] Dried roots of Gentiana crassicauh's were crushed and extracted in 100% pure ethanol, then filtered to obtain a clear liquid which was then loaded onto an ion exchange column. The elution was done with a water:ethanol mixture 25:75 (w/w) then the eluate was concentrated in a vacuum evaporator. This extract was then mixed with stirring in butylene glycol to obtain a clear liquid. This liquid is characterized by 5% dry matter (% weight/weight) extracted from the roots and by a loganic acid content > 0.3% (weight/weight) relative to the total weight of dry matter of the extract, determined by HPLC.

Example Id: Preparation of Gentiana crassicauh's extract (liquid) according to the invention mixed with glycerin

[0128] Dried roots of Gentiana crassicauh's were crushed and extracted in 100% pure ethanol, then filtered to obtain a clear liquid which was then loaded onto an ion exchange column. The elution was done with a water:ethanol mixture 25:75 (w/w) then the eluate was concentrated in a vacuum evaporator to remove the ethanol. This extract was then mixed with stirring in glycerin to obtain a clear liquid. This liquid is characterized by 1% dry matter (w/w) extracted from the roots and by a loganic acid content > 0.025% (w/w) relative to the total weight of dry matter in the extract, determined by HPLC. Example 2: Clinical evaluation of the effect of the Gentiana crass/caui/s extract according to the invention on the improvement of the skin barrier, the hydration of sensitive skin made pathological (irritated) in a model and on the reduction in the irritation thus induced.

[0129] The clinical evaluation was carried out in a double-blind manner, in a randomized manner, on the forearms of 31 Asian female volunteers, aged 18 to 35 years old and presenting so-called sensitive but non-pathological skin, i.e. -say reporting having at least two of the following unpleasant or uncomfortable symptoms every day: itching, feelings of heat, tightness.

[0130] Skin irritation was induced by occlusive patches with 0.1% Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS) for 24 hours on 3 areas of the forearms. This model makes it possible to create an alteration of the skin barrier and therefore to model so-called irritated pathological skin, due to an altered skin barrier. The first application of the tested compositions took place 1 hour after removal of the patches. The volunteers then applied the compositions twice a day (once in the morning and once in the evening) for 5 days. The compositions tested were a formulation according to Example 3 comprising a final concentration by weight of the Gentiana crassicauh's extract obtained according to Example 1a of 0.15% (w/w) relative to the total weight of the formulation ( called “active” composition according to Example 3) applied to one of the forearms, and a formulation according to Example 3 devoid of the extract according to the invention, replaced by the reference compound Dipotassium glycyrrhizinate instead of 0.2% (w/w) relative to the total weight of the formulation (called “control” composition according to Example 3) applied to the other forearm of each woman. An area which had been exposed to the patch but to which no composition had been applied (called “untreated”) was also studied.

[0131] The effectiveness of the treatment was evaluated by different methods:

- Measurement of the concentration of red blood cells, an indicator of skin irritation, by cell viability imaging (TiVi).

- Measurement of insensible transepidermal water loss (PIE) by measurement with the Tewameter.

- Measuring hydration using a Corneometer.

[0132] The measurement times were 1 hour after removal of the patches (JO HO), after 4 hours (JO, H4), 24 hours (Jl) and 5 days (D5).

[0133] The effectiveness of the formulations comprising or not comprising the Gentiana crassicau/is extract according to the invention was compared before treatment (JOHO), with the control formulation and with the untreated area.

[0134] The results were expressed as percentage variations relative to the value at JOHO. The statistical analyzes of the variation of the parameters as a function of time, as well as as a function of the compositions tested, were carried out after verification of the normality of distribution using the Shapiro-Wilk test, by a paired Student's t-test. , after validation of normality or by the Wilcoxon test after invalidation of normality. The significance threshold was set at 5% (p<0.05). The results of:

- measurement of imperceptible water loss (Tewameter) and variations in % are indicated in table 1;

- measurement of hydration (Corneometer) and variations in % are indicated in table 2;

- measurement of the concentration of red blood cells (skin irritation) by cell viability imaging (TiVi) and variation in % are indicated in table 3.

[0135][Table 1]

[0136] The active composition according to Example 3 containing the Gentiana crassicauh's extract obtained according to Example 1.a significantly reduced the transepidermal water loss induced by the SLS patch, from 4 hours in comparison with the initial value before treatment (JOHO ), and at 4 hours and after 5 days in comparison with the value of the untreated area.

[0137] [Table 2]

[0138] The active composition according to Example 3 containing the Gentiana crassicau/is extract obtained according to Example 1.a increased the level of skin hydration after dehydration induced by the SLS patch, significantly from 4 hours in comparison with JOHO (before treatment) and with the untreated and significantly from 4 hours and after 5 days in comparison with the control composition according to Example 3 devoid of the Gentiana crassicau/is extract.

[0139] All of these results show the beneficial effect of the Gentiana crassicau/is extract obtained according to the invention to improve and/or maintain the skin barrier and increase and/or maintain the hydration of irritated skin. . [0140] [Table 3]

[0141] The active composition according to Example 3 containing the Gentiana crassicau/is extract obtained according to Example 1a significantly reduced the irritation induced by the SLS patch from 4 hours in comparison with the initial value before treatment (JOHO) and with the value of the untreated area and significantly after 5 days in comparison with the control composition according to Example 3 devoid of the Gentiana crassicau/is extract. These results show the beneficial effect of the Gentiana crassicauiis extract according to the invention to reduce and/or prevent irritation of the skin.

[0142] This example demonstrates the effectiveness of the extract according to the invention for treating the altered skin barrier of irritated skin. More broadly, this example demonstrates the effectiveness of the extract according to the invention in reducing the feelings of discomfort, unpleasant and/or uncomfortable in other so-called non-pathological skin types such as sensitive skin.

Example 3: Example of a cosmetic composition comprising an extract of Gentiana crassicau/is according to example l.a

[0143] We proceed according to methods known to those skilled in the art to mix together the different phases A, B, C indicated in Table 4 below to prepare a composition according to the present invention. The proportions are expressed in % and the names in capital letters correspond to the INCI names of the ingredients.

[0144] [Table 4]

Claims

[Claim 1] Non-therapeutic cosmetic use of an extract of Gentiana crassicau/is for the cosmetic treatment and/or cosmetic care of healthy skin and/or mucous membranes selected from sensitive and/or sensitized and/or sensitive skin and/or mucous membranes fragile and/or weakened and/or dry and/or atopic prone, in particular sensitive skin.

[Claim 2] Cosmetic use according to claim 1, to prevent and/or reduce one or more unsightly and/or unpleasant and/or uncomfortable manifestations of healthy skin and/or mucous membranes selected from sensitive and/or sensitized skin and/or mucous membranes and/or fragile and/or weakened and/or dry and/or with an atopic tendency.

[Claim 3] Cosmetic use according to any one of the preceding claims, to soothe the skin and/or healthy mucosa and/or increase and/or maintain the comfort of the skin and/or healthy mucosa and/or reduce and/or prevent the sensitivity of the healthy skin and/or mucous membrane and/or increase and/or maintain the hydration of the healthy skin and/or mucous membrane.

[Claim 4] Cosmetic use according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that healthy skin and/or mucous membranes have a weakened skin and/or mucosal barrier.

[Claim 5] Cosmetic use according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the unsightly and/or unpleasant and/or uncomfortable manifestations of healthy skin and/or mucous membranes are chosen from tingling, itching, dryness, sensation of heat or warming, tension, tingling, tightness, redness and/or a mixture of these manifestations.

[Claim 6] Use according to any one of the preceding claims, to improve and/or maintain the skin and/or mucosal barrier of healthy skin and/or mucosa.

[Claim 7] Use according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the Gentiana crassicau/is extract is a root extract.

[Claim 8] Use according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the extract of Gentiana crassicau/is contains loganic acid and/or one or more of its derivatives, preferably in that its acid content loganic is equal to or greater than 0.1% (w/w), more preferably equal to or greater than 0.5% (w/w) relative to the total weight of dry matter of the extract

[Claim 9] Use according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the extract of Gentiana crassicau/is is obtained by extraction in a protic polar solvent, preferably by extraction in a water/alcohol mixture, more preferably by extraction in a water/ethanol mixture, even more preferably by extraction in pure ethanol as the sole solvent.

[Claim 10] Use according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the Gentiana crassicau/is extract is in the form of an active ingredient in dry form, advantageously in association with maltodextrin.

[Claim 11] Use according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the Gentiana crassicau/is extract or the cosmetic ingredient comprising it is intended to be incorporated into a cosmetic composition, further comprising at least one excipient cosmetically acceptable, for topical administration to healthy skin.

[Claim 12] Use according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the Gentiana crassicau/is extract is in the form of a cosmetic composition comprising said extract at a concentration of between lxl0' ⁴ % and 10% (w/w) by weight, preferably between lxl0' ³ % and 10% (w/w) by weight, advantageously between lxl0' ³ % and 3% (w/w) by weight, more preferably between 0.01% and 3% (w/w) by weight, and even more preferably between 0.01% and 1% (w/w) by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, said composition further comprising at least one cosmetically acceptable excipient.

[Claim 13] Cosmetic use according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is a topical use on all or part of the body and/or the face and/or the scalp, preferably on specific parts of the body chosen from the face and/or scalp, as well as the legs, feet, armpits, hands, thighs, stomach, décolleté, neck, arms, torso, back, hips, buttocks, waist, crotch, groin, mucous membranes, areas exposed to sensitizing agents and/or polluting agents, to temperature variations and/or areas of expression of emotions, or even shaved areas, maceration areas, fold areas and/or excessively cleaned areas.

[Claim 14] Non-therapeutic cosmetic treatment process characterized in that it comprises application topically to at least one area of healthy skin and/or mucous membrane selected from sensitive and/or sensitized and/or sensitive skin and/or mucous membrane. or fragile and/or weakened and/or dry and/or with an atopic tendency, of an extract of Gentiana crassicau/is, or of a cosmetic composition comprising it, for the cosmetic treatment and/or cosmetic care of said skin and/or or healthy mucous membranes, in particular sensitive skin, in particular to prevent and/or reduce one or more unsightly and/or unpleasant and/or uncomfortable manifestations of said healthy skin and/or mucous membranes, preferably chosen from tingling, itching, dryness, a feeling of heat or heating, tension, tingling, tightness, redness and/or a mixture of these manifestations, and/or to soothe said healthy skin and/or mucous membrane and/or increase and/or maintain the comfort of said healthy skin and/or mucous membrane and/or reduce and/or prevent the sensitivity of said healthy skin and/or mucous membrane, and/or increase and/or maintain the hydration of said healthy skin and/or mucous membrane, and/or or improve and/or maintain the skin and/or mucosal barrier of said healthy skin and/or mucosa.

[Claim 15] Cosmetic treatment method according to claim 14, in which the area of healthy skin and/or mucous membrane is chosen from all or part of the body and/or the face and/or the scalp, preferably from specific parts of the bodies chosen from the face and/or scalp, as well as the legs, feet, armpits, hands, thighs, stomach, décolleté, neck, arms, torso, back, hips, the buttocks, waist, crotch, groin, mucous membranes, areas exposed to sensitizing agents and/or polluting agents, to temperature variations and/or areas of expression of emotions, or even the shaved areas, maceration areas, crease areas and/or excessively cleaned areas.

[Claim 16] Cosmetic care process according to any one of claims 14 or 15, in which the Gentiana crassicau/is extract is as defined in any one of claims 7 to 12.

[Claim 17] Gentiana crassicauiis extract or dermatological composition comprising it, for its use topically to treat and/or prevent and/or reduce the occurrence of pathologies linked to irritation of the skin and/or pathological mucous membrane and/or to the increase in its irritation and/or linked to the alteration of the skin and/or mucosal barrier of the skin and/or pathological mucosa and/or to the increase in its alteration and/or linked to a strong reduction in hydration of the skin and/or pathological mucosa, the pathological skin and/or mucosa being in particular reactive, intolerant, allergic, atopic and/or irritated skin and/or mucosa, the pathologies being for example xerosis, rosacea, atopic dermatitis, psoriasis, ichthyosis, in particular pathological desquamation, for example desquamation known as Peeling Skin Syndrome, irritation, eczema, and/or to treat and/or prevent and/or reduce the occurrence of alterations in the cutaneous and/or mucosal barrier of the skin and/or pathological mucosa accompanying certain pathologies such as diabetes, shingles, fibromyalgia and quadriplegia.

[Claim 18] Gentiana crassicau/is extract or dermatological composition comprising it, for its use according to claim 17, to reduce and/or prevent pathological skin irritation linked to an alteration of the skin and/or mucosal barrier, the pathological skin and/or mucous membrane being selected from reactive, intolerant, allergic, atopic and irritated skin and/or mucous membranes.

[Claim 19] Gentiana crassicauiis extract or dermatological composition comprising it for its use according to any one of claims 17 or 18, characterized in that the Gentiana crassicauiis extract is as defined in any one of claims 7 to

10.