CN117482133A

CN117482133A - New cosmetic or dermatological use of extract of Gentiana macrophylla Franch

Info

Publication number: CN117482133A
Application number: CN202210882969.0A
Authority: CN
Inventors: P·穆苏; C·博诺德-罗赛; Q·M·邵
Original assignee: BASF Beauty Care Solutions France SAS
Current assignee: BASF Beauty Care Solutions France SAS
Priority date: 2022-07-26
Filing date: 2022-07-26
Publication date: 2024-02-02

Abstract

The present invention relates to a novel cosmetic use of gentiana macrophylla extract and/or a composition comprising the same, for cosmetic treatment and/or cosmetic care of healthy skin and/or mucous membranes selected from the group consisting of sensitive and/or sensitized and/or fragile and/or weakened and/or dry and/or atopic skin and/or mucous membranes, in particular in order to prevent and/or reduce one or more unsightly and/or unpleasant and/or uncomfortable manifestations of the healthy skin and/or mucous membranes, in particular in order to ease the comfort of the healthy skin and/or mucous membranes, and/or to increase and/or maintain the comfort of the healthy skin and/or mucous membranes, and/or to reduce and/or prevent the sensitivity, and/or to increase and/or maintain the hydration, in particular in order to improve and/or maintain the skin and/or mucous membrane barrier of the healthy skin and/or mucous membranes. The invention also relates to a novel use of the extract of Gentiana macrophylla Crispa and/or the composition comprising the extract for dermatological treatment of skin and/or mucous membranes having an impaired skin and/or mucous membrane barrier.

Description

New cosmetic or dermatological use of extract of Gentiana macrophylla Franch

Technical Field

The present invention relates to cosmetic use of extract of gentiana macrophylla (Gentiana crassicaulis) for preventing and/or reducing one or more unsightly and/or unpleasant and/or uncomfortable manifestations of healthy skin and/or mucosa with damaged skin and/or mucosa barrier, and dermatological treatment of skin and/or mucosa with damaged skin and/or mucosa barrier.

Background

Sensitive skin is very common and several epidemiological studies have shown that more than half of the persons claim to have sensitive skin themselves. Sensitive skin occurs in normal persons of the skin where the skin barrier is weakened or destroyed. When the skin barrier is strongly damaged, a real condition may occur, such as the appearance of reactive skin, intolerant skin, allergic skin, atopic skin, irritated skin, or symptoms associated with xerosis, rosacea, atopic dermatitis and psoriasis, ichthyosis, especially pathological desquamation, such as desquamation called desquamation syndrome, irritation or diabetes, shingles, fibromyalgia and quadriplegia.

Various external stimuli or exogenous substances can lead to or aggravate sensitive skin, for example environmental factors (uv radiation, heat, cold or temperature changes, wind, dry air, pollution), lifestyle factors (air conditioning, diet, drinking, dressing), chemicals (surfactants such as sodium lauryl sulfate, soaps, shampoos, heavy metals, detergents, compounds used in cosmetics, such as fragrances, preservatives, alcohols, pH, fruit acids (AHA), or compounds used in dermatological treatments, such as tretinoin) or other sensitizers, and/or environmental stimuli, in particular sweat and mechanical stimuli, for example depilatory, shaving, friction, even water, in particular hard water, and/or endogenous factors, for example mood, genetic predisposition, hormonal levels and mental stress.

More and more people claim that their skin is sensitive, especially as environmental pollution increases, climate changes, and the materials used for external products or garments become increasingly complex.

Thus, a need exists for a solution for combating skin and/or mucous membrane sensitivity, in particular to prevent and/or reduce one or more unsightly and/or unpleasant and/or uncomfortable manifestations of healthy skin and/or mucous membranes selected from sensitive, sensitized, fragile, weakened, dry and/or allergic skin and/or mucous membranes.

Particularly surprising, the applicant has found that the extract of gentiana crassifolia has properties that prevent and/or reduce one or more unsightly and/or unpleasant and/or uncomfortable manifestations of healthy skin and/or mucous membranes selected from sensitive and/or sensitized and/or fragile and/or weakened and/or dry and/or atopic skin and/or mucous membranes. Quite unexpectedly, the gentiana macrophylla extract is particularly suitable for soothing healthy skin and/or mucous membranes, and/or increasing and/or maintaining the comfort of healthy skin and/or mucous membranes, and/or reducing and/or preventing the sensitivity of healthy skin and/or mucous membranes. And/or to increase and/or maintain hydration of healthy skin and/or mucous membranes. The applicant has found in particular that the extract of gentiana crassifolia advantageously makes it possible to improve and/or maintain the skin and/or mucosal barrier of healthy skin and/or mucosa.

The extract according to the present invention also has the advantage that it can be formulated easily and can be produced easily on an industrial scale as an active ingredient. It is a topically acceptable active ingredient for the skin and/or mucous membranes without any risk of allergy.

The gentiana macrophylla plant is a perennial herb plant of Qinghai Tibet plateau in Qinghai province, and has a relatively wide distribution in Asia, america and Dayang. Growing in mountain areas, barren lands, meadows, forest edges and forests with the altitude of 2100-4500 meters.

It is part of a group of medicinal plants, long-term named gentiana macrophylla (Gentiana macrophylla), commonly known as gentiana macrophylla (chinese pinyin is Qinjiao), belonging to the gentiaceae and gentiana genera (g.). Thus, gentiana macrophylla refers to a group of long-term indistinguishable plants, mainly including large She Qinjiao (G.macrophylla Pallas), gentiana straminea (G.straminea Maximowicz), gentiana kusnezoffii (G.dahurica Fischer), and Gentiana crassifolia (G.crassicaulis Duthie ex Burkill). The Chinese pharmacopoeia describes the use of gentiana macrophylla plants for treating rheumatism, arthralgia, apoplexy, jaundice and diabetes, and in Tibetan medicine for treating tonsillitis and urticaria. Pharmacological studies have also shown that gentiana macrophylla plants have anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, liver protecting, heart protecting and nerve protecting activities (Zhang X et al; botany, conventional use, phytochemistry, pharmacology, quality control and identification of gentiana macrophylla) -traditional medicine (Botany, traditional use, phytochemistry, quality control, and authentication of Radix Gentianae Macrophyllae-A traditional medicine): overview; botanicals, 2018, 46, 142-163).

The use of gentiana macrophylla extract in cosmetics has been described in patent applications. For example, patent application CN 106137812 describes the use of gentian extract obtained by a specific extraction method as an active agent for inhibiting tyrosinase and elastase and as an antioxidant in cosmetic compositions.

However, to the best of applicant's knowledge, the following uses of the invention have not been described in the literature: cosmetic treatment and/or cosmetic care of healthy skin and/or mucous membranes, in particular sensitive skin, in particular in order to prevent and/or reduce one or more unsightly and/or unpleasant and/or uncomfortable manifestations of healthy skin and/or mucous membranes, by topical use of gentiana macrophylla extract as active ingredient in cosmetics selected from sensitive and/or sensitized and/or fragile and/or weakened and/or dry and/or atopic skin and/or mucous membranes. Furthermore, the following uses for the present invention have not been clear so far: the gentiana macrophylla extract is particularly useful for soothing healthy skin and/or mucous membranes, and/or increasing and/or maintaining the comfort of healthy skin and/or mucous membranes, and/or reducing and/or preventing the sensitivity of healthy skin and/or mucous membranes, and/or increasing and/or maintaining the hydration of healthy skin and/or mucous membranes. Also, it is not known in the prior art that gentiana macrophylla extract is particularly useful for improving and/or maintaining the skin and/or mucosal barrier of healthy skin and/or mucosa.

Similarly, the use of extracts of gentiana macrophylla pall in dermatological treatment of skin and/or mucous membranes having impaired skin and/or mucous membrane barrier, in particular reactive, intolerant, allergic, atopic and/or irritated skin and/or mucous membranes, is also unknown in the prior art.

Disclosure of Invention

A first object of the present invention is the non-therapeutic cosmetic use of gentiana macrophylla extract for cosmetic treatment and/or cosmetic care of healthy skin and/or mucous membranes, in particular preventing and/or reducing one or more unsightly and/or unpleasant and/or uncomfortable manifestations for healthy skin and/or mucous membranes with damaged skin and/or mucous membrane barrier. In particular healthy skin and/or mucous membranes selected from the group consisting of: sensitive and/or sensitized and/or fragile and/or weakened and/or dry and/or sensitive, preferably sensitive skin. The unsightly and/or unpleasant and/or uncomfortable manifestations of these healthy skin and/or mucous membranes are preferably selected from the group consisting of stinging, itching, dryness, burning or fever, tightness, tingling, twitching, redness and/or combinations of these manifestations.

According to a specific embodiment, the present invention also relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic use of the extract of gentiana macrophylla, for soothing healthy skin and/or mucous membranes and/or increasing and/or maintaining the comfort of healthy skin and/or mucous membranes. And/or reducing and/or preventing the sensitivity of healthy skin and/or mucous membranes, in particular selected from sensitive and/or sensitized and/or fragile and/or weakened and/or dry and/or sensitive skin and/or mucous membranes, preferably sensitive skin, and/or increasing and/or maintaining the hydration of healthy skin and/or mucous membranes.

The extract of gentiana macrophylla pall according to the present invention may also be used for improving and/or maintaining the skin and/or mucosal barrier of healthy skin and/or mucosa.

The invention also relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic care method, characterized in that it comprises the topical application of the gentiana macrophylla extract according to the invention or a cosmetic composition comprising it to at least one area of healthy skin and/or mucous membrane, in particular selected from sensitive and/or sensitized and/or fragile and/or weakened and/or dry and/or skin and/or mucous membrane areas with an atopic tendency, for cosmetic treatment and/or cosmetic care of said healthy skin and/or mucous membrane, in particular of sensitive skin, in particular to prevent and/or reduce one or more unsightly and/or unpleasant and/or uncomfortable manifestations of said healthy skin and/or mucous membrane, preferably selected from stinging, itching, dryness, burning or fever, tightness, tingling, twitching, redness and/or a combination of these manifestations. The present invention also relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic care method, characterized in that it comprises the topical application of the extract of gentiana crassifolia as defined in the present invention or of a cosmetic composition comprising it to at least one area of healthy skin and/or mucous membrane, in particular selected from sensitive and/or sensitized and/or fragile and/or weakened and/or dry and/or atopic skin and/or mucous membrane areas, in order to ease said healthy skin and/or mucous membrane, and/or to increase and/or maintain the comfort of said healthy skin and/or mucous membrane, and/or to decrease and/or prevent the sensitivity of said healthy skin and/or mucous membrane, and/or to increase and/or maintain the hydration of said healthy skin and/or mucous membrane. The invention also relates to a cosmetic care method characterized in that it comprises the topical application of the extract of gentiana crassifolia as defined in the invention or of a cosmetic composition comprising it to at least one area of healthy skin and/or mucous membrane, in particular selected from sensitive and/or sensitized and/or fragile and/or weakened and/or dry and/or atopic skin and/or mucous membrane areas, for improving and/or maintaining the skin and/or mucous membrane barrier of said healthy skin and/or mucous membrane.

The invention also relates to an extract of Gentiana macrophylla Crispa, or a dermatological composition comprising the same, for topical use for the treatment and/or prevention and/or reduction of the occurrence of pathologies associated with: stimulation and/or increased stimulation of and/or increased damage to skin and/or mucosal barrier of pathological skin and/or mucosal membrane, and/or drastically reduced hydration of pathological skin and/or mucosal membrane, in particular reactive, intolerant, allergic, atopic and/or stimulated skin and/or mucosal membrane, said pathology being for example xerosis, rosacea, atopic dermatitis, psoriasis, ichthyosis, in particular pathological desquamation, for example desquamation called desquamation syndrome, irritation, eczema. The invention also relates to an extract of gentiana macrophylla pall, or a dermatological composition comprising the same, for topical use in the treatment and/or prevention and/or reduction of the occurrence of lesions in the skin and/or mucosal barrier of pathological skin and/or mucous membranes, accompanied by certain pathologies such as diabetes, shingles, fibromyalgia and quadriplegia. Preferably, the pathological skin and/or mucosa is skin and/or mucosa without inflammation.

According to a particular aspect, the present invention also relates to an extract of gentiana crassifolia, or a dermatological composition comprising it, for reducing and/or preventing irritation of pathological skin and/or mucous membranes associated with an impaired skin and/or mucous membrane barrier, said pathological skin and/or mucous membranes being selected from reactive, intolerant, allergic, atopic, irritated skin and/or mucous membranes.

In the present invention, "cosmetic use" means non-pharmaceutical use, i.e. not for therapeutic purposes, nor for preventing and/or treating skin and/or mucous membranes determined to be pathological by specialists in the field (e.g. dermatologists), but for and/or for application to so-called healthy body parts, in particular so-called healthy skin and/or mucous membrane areas.

The term "skin" means an area of skin of any part of the body and/or face, including the scalp, advantageously the face.

According to the invention, the term "mucous membrane" refers to nasal, ocular, vaginal, genitourinary, anal, buccal, labial and/or gingival mucous membranes, preferably ocular and/or buccal and/or labial and/or nasal mucous membranes.

In the present invention, the term "healthy skin and/or mucous membrane" refers to the area of skin and/or mucous membrane to which the extract or composition according to the invention is applied, which area is diagnosed by the dermatologist as "non-pathological", i.e. free of pathologies associated with an increase in irritation and/or irritation of the pathological skin and/or mucous membrane, and/or with an impaired and/or damaged skin and/or mucous membrane barrier, and/or with a sharp decrease in hydration of the pathological skin and/or mucous membrane, free of infections, scars, diseases, skin inflammation or skin disorders, such as candidiasis, impetigo, psoriasis, eczema, dryness, rosacea, irritation, ichthyosis, in particular pathological desquamation, such as what is known as desquamation syndrome, acne or dermatitis, in particular atopic dermatitis, or urticaria, in particular contact, or wounds or sores or ulcers, or burns and/or other conditions of the pathological skin and/or mucous membrane, skin and/or mucous membranes associated with a severe decrease in hydration of the pathological skin and/or mucous membrane, associated with diseases, such as fibrositia, paralysis, and paralysis of the extremities. Preferably, healthy skin and/or mucous membranes are non-inflammatory and/or non-inflammatory. Thus, it is not reactive, intolerant, allergic, atopic and/or irritated skin and/or mucous membranes.

According to an advantageous embodiment of the invention, the healthy skin and/or mucous membrane is characterized in that it has a weakened skin and/or mucous membrane barrier. However, it is preferred that the barrier is not damaged.

The term "sensitive skin and/or mucosa" refers to skin and/or mucosa characterized by a sensory perception in response to a stimulus, characterized by one or more unsightly and/or unpleasant and/or uncomfortable manifestations. Thus, sensitive skin and/or mucous membranes may be assessed by the subject himself with subjective skin feel, or by the dermatologist with objective skin response. Essentially, these skins and/or mucous membranes are resistant to very little irritating agents/irritating environments.

External stimuli or substances that can cause or exacerbate unsightly and/or unpleasant and/or uncomfortable manifestations of sensitive skin and/or mucous membranes are: for example environmental/climatic factors (uv radiation, heat, cold or temperature changes, wind, dry air, pollution), lifestyle factors (air conditioning, diet, alcohol consumption, dressing), chemicals (surfactants such as sodium lauryl sulphate, soaps, shampoos, heavy metals, detergents, compounds contained in cosmetics, such as fragrances, preservatives, alcohols, pH, fruit acids (AHA), or substances in dermatological preparations (such as tretinoin) or other sensitizers, including sweat and mechanical stimuli (such as dehairing, shaving, friction, water, in particular calcium-containing water) and/or other endogenous factors (such as mood, genetic susceptibility, hormone levels (e.g. menstrual period) and pressure unlike sensitive skin, sensitive skin and/or mucous membranes are not skin and/or mucous membranes with pathological characteristics.

Sensitivity of the skin and/or mucosa is multifactorial, but generally results in reduced barrier function. Normally, the stratum corneum forms a barrier, retaining moisture content and preventing penetration of harmful chemicals and microorganisms. In the case of weakened skin and/or mucosal barriers, substances and/or microorganisms can penetrate and cause unsightly, unpleasant and/or uncomfortable manifestations, typically sensitive skin and/or mucosa. This weakening is typically accompanied by an increase in unobvious water loss. It is therefore also important to maintain the barrier function of the stratum corneum to maintain the moisture content of the skin, thereby avoiding the dry skin and the sensitive malignant cycle of the skin.

However, the skin and/or mucous membranes may react to irritating agents and/or irritating environments that make them unsightly and/or unpleasant and/or uncomfortable to present. Unsightly and uncomfortable manifestations can spread throughout the body, but most of the time they have well-defined positioning, e.g. scalp, face, skin folds, buttocks of infants, etc. Thus, it may be a region of sensitive skin and/or mucosa.

In the present invention, "cosmetic treatment and/or care of healthy skin and/or mucous membranes" means preventing and/or reducing and/or eliminating the unsightly and/or unpleasant and/or uncomfortable manifestation of healthy skin and/or mucous membranes of skin and/or mucous membranes selected from sensitive and/or sensitized and/or fragile and/or weakened and/or dry and/or atopic skin and/or mucous membranes, preferably sensitive skin.

The term "unsightly and/or unpleasant and/or uncomfortable manifestation" is understood to mean a subjective unpleasant sensation of skin discomfort, such as tingling, itching, dryness, burning or fever, tightness, tingling, twitching, redness, in response to a stimulus which does not normally produce such manifestation, in particular itching, dryness, heat or overheating, tension, tingling or tightness.

These manifestations are not related to inflammation.

The unsightly and/or unpleasant and/or uncomfortable manifestations are manifestations of healthy skin and/or mucous membranes, preferably sensitive, sensitized, fragile, weakened, dry and/or atopic prone skin and/or mucous membranes.

By "sensitized skin and/or mucosa" is meant that healthy skin and/or mucosa becomes temporarily sensitive and is therefore not pathological and its barrier function is impaired.

The term "fragile or weakened skin and/or mucosa (i.e. temporarily becoming fragile)" refers to healthy skin and/or mucosa whose barrier function is impaired. Such conditions may be related to the condition of the individual and/or to age, such as elderly and infants with fragile skin. This condition may also be caused by chemical or physical stimuli (abrasion, friction, cuts).

The term "dry skin and/or mucous membrane" refers to skin and/or mucous membranes characterized by tightness across the face and body caused by weakening of the skin and/or mucous membrane barrier. Sensitive and accompanied by tight textures and redness, these skins and/or mucous membranes lack moisture and grease, and need to be moisturized.

By "atopic skin and/or mucosa" is meant a very fragile and/or weakened healthy skin and/or mucosa, which has an increased permeability due to a reduced barrier function and is genetically susceptible to a number of internal and external factors and thus develops into a pathological state of atopic dermatitis. Thus, the characteristics of "atopic skin and/or mucosa" may be objectively assessed by the subject's own subjective assessment of skin and/or mucosa sensation or by the dermatologist based on skin and/or mucosa response.

The unsightly and/or unpleasant and/or uncomfortable appearance of sensitive, fragile and/or weakened, dry and/or atopic skin and/or mucous membranes is the same as sensitive skin and/or mucous membranes, but these appearance and/or skin and/or mucous membrane states are not within the scope of disease prevention and/or treatment.

Unsightly and/or unpleasant and/or uncomfortable manifestations of healthy skin and/or mucous membranes can spread throughout the body and/or face and/or scalp, but most of the time they can be well positioned. Such as the face, including the forehead, cheeks, nose, temples, T-shaped areas (forehead, nose and chin), external auditory meatus, chin and/or scalp, as well as the lower leg, foot, armpit, hand, thigh, abdomen, shoulder, neck, arm, torso, back, outside buttocks, waist, crotch, groin, mucous membranes, such as lip mucous membrane, oral mucous membrane, eye mucous membrane or nasal mucous membrane, areas exposed to contaminants and/or sensitizers (e.g. cosmetics or soaps), such as the contours of the eyes, lip areas, areas exposed to temperature changes and/or areas expressing emotion, such as cheeks, collarband, hands, and/or even light areas and/or impregnated areas (e.g. infant buttocks), wrinkled areas (e.g. armpit, elbow rear, knee rear), buttocks, groin, neck and/or areas that are excessively clean.

The term "weakening of the skin and/or mucosal barrier" refers to a temporary or constitutive imbalance of barrier function, manifested as a decrease in homeostasis, independent of pathology, neither causing nor responsible for the pathology. This decrease in barrier function may promote dehydration by increasing non-dominant water loss (PIE) and increase the risk of exposure to penetration of harmful substances. Such a reduced barrier state may be related to the state of the individual and/or to age, for example, so that elderly and infants have reduced skin and/or mucosal barriers. This condition may also be caused by chemical or physical stimuli (abrasion, friction, cuts).

By "soothing healthy skin and/or mucous membrane" is meant preventing and/or reducing one or more unsightly and/or unpleasant and/or uncomfortable manifestations of healthy skin and/or mucous membrane by enhancing the skin and/or mucous membrane barrier of weakening the healthy skin and/or mucous membrane.

By "increasing and/or maintaining the comfort of healthy skin and/or mucous membranes" is meant promoting and/or increasing and/or maintaining the hydration of healthy skin and/or mucous membranes, in particular by improving and/or maintaining and/or strengthening the skin and/or mucous membrane barrier of healthy skin and/or mucous membranes.

By "reducing and/or preventing the sensitivity of healthy skin and/or mucous membranes" is meant improving and/or maintaining the skin and/or mucous membrane barrier of healthy skin and/or mucous membranes to prevent and/or reduce one or more unsightly and/or unpleasant and/or uncomfortable manifestations of healthy skin and/or mucous membranes, in particular sensitive and/or sensitized and/or fragile and/or weakened and/or dry and/or atopic skin.

By "preventing and/or reducing one or more unsightly and/or unpleasant and/or uncomfortable manifestations of healthy skin and/or mucous membranes" is meant preventing and/or reducing and/or eliminating subjective or real unpleasant sensations and/or unsightly and/or uncomfortable and/or undesired manifestations of the skin and/or mucous membranes, such as tingling, itching, dryness, burning or heating sensation, tightness, tingling, twitching, redness, preferably stinging, dryness, heat or overheating sensation, tension, tingling or tightness.

By "increasing and/or maintaining hydration" is meant increasing and/or maintaining the water content in the stratum corneum, including after the use of surfactants, especially SLS (sodium dodecyl sulfate), causes a decrease in water content, especially by enhancing the skin barrier.

The measurement of hydration of healthy skin and/or mucous membranes can be carried out by measurement techniques known to the person skilled in the art, in particular in vivo, for example by means of a keratometer. This in vivo measurement method consists in measuring the change in dielectric constant. Water is the substance with the highest dielectric constant on the skin. When the moisture content changes, the skin dielectric capacity also changes, so the moisture content of the skin surface can be analyzed by measuring the dielectric capacity of the skin.

Advantageously, the measurement of the increase in hydration can be carried out using the following method: a population of men or women with itching and/or tightness and/or heat sensation on the face is selected, preferably by applying a formulation comprising the extract of gentiana crassifolia as prepared according to example 1.A, under conditions similar to those described in example 2, that is, except for the irritation produced by the occlusive patch.

In a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the extract of gentiana crassifolia as per the present invention is used in an amount effective to increase and/or maintain hydration of healthy skin and/or mucous membranes, and the hydration of the skin is increased by at least 50%, preferably by at least 60% from 4 hours after application of the extract according to the present invention, in particular the extract of the present invention in the form of a cosmetic composition, after induction of dehydration by an SLS patch, compared to the skin hydration state detected before use.

The term "improving and/or maintaining the skin and/or mucosal barrier" refers to enhancing and/or maintaining the function of the skin and/or mucosal barrier by reducing and/or lowering insignificant water loss (also known as transdermal water loss), and/or accelerating and/or improving the skin and/or mucosal barrier which is reduced by the action of a surfactant.

The percutaneous loss of water can be measured by measurement techniques known to those skilled in the art, and in particular can be measured in vivo, for example by a resistance meter. This in vivo measurement method involves measuring the water vapor pressure gradient formed by the removal of stratum corneum water in the vicinity of the epidermis (within about 1 cm radius) and directly measuring the amount of water evaporated through the epidermis to determine the water loss from the skin surface. Lower values indicate lower transepidermal water loss and therefore better skin barrier function.

Advantageously, the measurement of the percutaneous loss of water is performed in a population of men or women with facial itching and/or tightness and/or heat sensation, preferably using a formulation containing the extract of gentiana macrophylla, prepared according to the method of example 1.A, under conditions similar to those described in example 2, that is, except that the irritation is produced by the occlusive patch.

In a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the extract of gentiana macrophylla thunb of the present invention is used in an effective amount to improve and/or maintain the skin and/or mucosal barrier of healthy skin and/or mucosa, and the extract of the present invention, in particular the cosmetic composition form of the present invention is used to induce the transdermal water loss of the skin surface by the SLS patch compared to the transdermal water loss (PIE) detected before application, and the extract of the present invention, in particular the cosmetic composition form of the present invention is applied to reduce the transdermal water loss by at least 10%, preferably at least 14%, from 4 hours.

The gentiana macrophylla extract may be any part of the plant, such as roots and/or aerial parts, including leaves, flowers and/or stems. Advantageously, the gentiana macrophylla extract is a root extract.

According to one embodiment, the extract of gentiana macrophylla is an extract containing lactic acid and/or one or more derivatives thereof. Preferably, the dry acid content of the gentiana macrophylla extract is equal to or greater than 0.1% (w/w), more preferably equal to or greater than 0.5% (w/w), relative to the total weight of dry matter of the extract.

The term "dry acid" refers to a cyclic ene ether terpene glycoside of formula C ₁₆ H ₂₄ O ₁₀ 。

The term "derivatives of tranexamic acid" refers to salts, carboxylic esters, acid chlorides, anhydrides, esters, amides derived from tranexamic acid.

The extract according to the invention may be obtained by any extraction method known to the person skilled in the art, selected from the group consisting of hot frying, maceration, extrusion, extraction under subcritical conditions, ultrasound-assisted extraction, with or without grinding, such as ultrasonic grinding or using a stirrer. Advantageously, the extract is obtained by infusion, more advantageously by stirred infusion.

The term "extraction under subcritical conditions" means that the extraction is carried out in the presence of water at a temperature higher than 100 ℃ and a pressure lower than or equal to 22.1MPa (221 bar), so that the water remains liquid, but has a lower viscosity and surface tension than water at room temperature, thereby increasing its dielectric constant.

The extraction may be carried out with dry or fresh plant material, advantageously dry, with a weight of the material plant of from 1% to 90%, preferably from 5% to 50%, very preferably from 10% to 25%, relative to the total weight of plant material and extraction solvent.

The extraction may be performed at a temperature in the range of 4 ℃ to 300 ℃, including room temperature, i.e., a temperature of about 20 ℃. In a preferred embodiment of the invention, the extraction will be carried out at a temperature in the range of 20 ℃ to 150 ℃, preferably 20 ℃ to 80 ℃.

The extraction may be carried out for a few seconds to 24 hours, preferably 1 minute to 12 hours, more preferably 5 minutes to 5 hours, still more preferably 0.5 hours to 3 hours.

The extraction may be repeated as many times as necessary under the same or different conditions as the first extraction, preferably the extraction is repeated once under the same conditions as the first extraction.

The solvent may be selected from water or a solvent mixture, preferably a protic polar solvent. It is advantageously selected from water, alcohols, diols, polyols, water/alcohols, water/diols or water/polyol mixtures (e.g. water mixed with ethanol, glycerol and/or butanediol and/or other diols, such as xylitol and/or propylene glycol, etc.), in a ratio of from 99/1 to 1/99 (w/w), preferably it is a mixture of water/alcohol solvents, more preferably water/ethanol, advantageously it is pure ethanol as sole solvent, i.e. contains at least 95% ethanol (v/v).

In particular, the extract is obtained by hydroalcoholic extraction. Within the meaning of the present invention, the term "extract obtained by aqueous-alcoholic extraction" refers to any extract obtained by extraction with an alcoholic solution, preferably an alcoholic solution, containing more than 20% by weight, preferably at least 30% by weight of alcohol, preferably ethanol, relative to the total weight of the solution.

According to a preferred embodiment, the extract is obtained by immersion in a water/ethanol solvent mixture.

According to a more preferred embodiment, the extract is obtained by maceration in pure ethanol as the sole solvent, i.e. containing at least 95% ethanol (v/v).

According to a preferred embodiment, the extract of Gentiana macrophylla pall is used alone, in particular in the form of an active ingredient. The extract according to the invention may be in dry form, i.e. in powder form. Preferably obtained according to the protocol described for example in example 1. B.

According to another preferred embodiment, the extract of gentiana macrophylla is the active ingredient in dry form, i.e. in powder form, preferably in combination with maltodextrin, preferably in an extract content of 1% to 99% (w/w), more preferably in an extract content of 5% to 60% (w/w), advantageously 20% to 60% (w/w), even more advantageously 30% to 50% (w/w), relative to the total weight of the powder comprising extract and maltodextrin. Advantageously obtained according to the method described for example in example 1. A.

According to a preferred alternative, the extract of gentiana macrophylla pall, which is the active ingredient in liquid form and/or diluted in a solvent, according to the present invention, is preferably in an extract content of 0.1% to 99% (w/w), more preferably in an extract content of 0.1% to 50% (w/w), advantageously in an extract content of 0.1% to 20% (w/w), still more preferably in an extract content of 1% to 10% (w/w), with respect to the total weight of the liquid comprising the extract and the solvent. Preferably, the solvent contains less than 50% (w/w) water, more preferably less than 40% (w/w) water. Very preferably, the solvent is water-glycol (hydro-glycerol) or water-glycerol (hydro-glycerol). Advantageously, obtained according to the method described for example in example 1.C and/or example 1. D.

According to the present invention, the extract of Gentiana macrophylla Crispa Makino of the present invention may be used alone in the form of an active ingredient, and/or in cosmetic and/or dermatological compositions.

In another advantageous embodiment, the extract of gentiana macrophylla crassifolia according to the present invention is intended for or can be incorporated into a cosmetic composition further comprising at least one cosmetically acceptable excipient for topical application to healthy skin and/or mucous membranes.

Thus, advantageously, the cosmetic composition is intended for topical application to healthy skin and/or mucous membranes.

Alternatively, the extract of Gentiana macrophylla cruda according to the present invention may be in the form of any galenic formulation conventionally used for topical application.

The term "cosmetic ingredient" refers to one or more plant extracts and/or one or more natural or synthetic molecules and/or mixtures thereof for cosmetic applications. In particular, cosmetic ingredients are defined by the international cosmetic Ingredient Nomenclature (INCI).

The term "cosmetic composition" refers to a non-therapeutic composition, i.e. not for therapeutic use, nor for preventing and/or treating skin and/or mucous membranes which are described by the expert in the field as pathological, for example as dermatologists, but which are intended locally and/or are intended for so-called healthy parts of the body, in particular so-called healthy areas of the skin and/or mucous membranes, said cosmetic composition further comprising at least one cosmetically acceptable excipient.

Within the meaning of the present invention, the term "topical route" is understood to mean that the extract of gentiana crassifolia, or the composition comprising it, according to the present invention is directly topically applied and/or gasified on the surface of the skin and/or mucosal area to be treated. Thus, the composition may be applied topically to all or part of the body and/or face and/or scalp, particularly to a human, preferably to a specific part of the body selected from the group consisting of: the face (including forehead, cheek, nose, temple, T-shaped area (forehead, nose and chin), external auditory canal, chin), and/or scalp, as well as the lower leg, foot, armpit, hand, thigh, abdomen, shoulder, neck, arm, torso, back, outside buttocks, waist, crotch, groin, mucous membranes such as lip mucous membrane, oral mucous membrane, eye mucous membrane or nasal mucous membrane, areas exposed to contaminants and/or sensitizers such as cosmetics or soaps, e.g., the contours of the eyes, around the lips, areas exposed to temperature changes, and/or areas expressing emotion, e.g., cheek, shoulder, hand, and/or shaved areas and/or impregnated areas (e.g., infant buttocks), crease areas (e.g., armpit, elbow rear, knee rear, buttocks, crotch, groin, neck), and/or areas that are excessively clean.

According to one embodiment, the use of the extract according to the invention and/or of the composition comprising it is topical, for all or part of the body and/or face and/or scalp, in particular of a human, preferably for selecting the following specific body parts: the face (including forehead, cheek, nose, temple, T-shaped area (forehead, nose and chin), external auditory canal, chin), and/or scalp, as well as the lower leg, foot, armpit, hand, thigh, abdomen, shoulder, neck, arm, torso, back, outside buttocks, waist, crotch, groin, mucous membranes, such as lips, mouth, eyes or nasal mucous membranes, areas exposed to contaminants and/or sensitizers, such as cosmetics or soaps, such as the contours of the eyes, around the lips, areas exposed to temperature changes, and/or areas expressing mood, such as cheek, shoulder, hand, and/or shaving areas and/or dipping areas (such as infant buttocks), areas (such as armpits, elbow rear, knee rear), buttocks, crotch, groin, neck, and/or areas of excessive cleaning.

Advantageously, the extract of gentiana macrophylla crassifolia, or the composition comprising it, according to the present invention, is intended for topical application to a specific part of the body selected from: facial skin, including forehead, cheek, nose, temple, T-shaped area (forehead, nose and chin), external auditory canal, chin and/or scalp and/or neck and/or shoulder.

The cosmetic composition or extract of gentiana crassifolia, optionally in the form of a cosmetic ingredient, according to the present invention may be in all galenic forms, in particular in topical, for example liquid or solid form, or in liquid form under pressure, conventionally used for topical or oral administration. They can be formulated in particular in the form of aqueous or oily solutions, creams or aqueous or oily gels, in particular in tanks or tubes, in particular bath lotions, shampoos, milks, emulsions, hydrogels, microemulsions or nanoemulsions, in particular oil-in-water or water-in-oil or multiphasic or silicone-based emulsions, essences, lotions, in particular in glass or plastic bottles or dispensing bottles, or in aerosols, ampoules, liquid soaps, pastes, dermatological sticks, ointments, mousses, aerosols, masks, patches, anhydrous products, preferably in liquid, pasty or solid form, for example in stick form, in particular stick or powder form, in particular in cosmetics. In particular, the composition is in the form of a concentrate, lotion, cream, milk, ointment, paste, mousse, emulsion, hydrogel, body wash, aerosol, mask, stick, patch or cosmetic powder, most advantageously a cream or lotion.

In an advantageous embodiment, the extract of Gentiana macrophylla cruda is in the form of a cosmetic composition comprising said extract, the cosmetic composition comprising a concentration of 1 x 10 with respect to the total weight of the composition ^-4 % to 10% (w/w), preferably 1X 10) ^-3 % to 10% (w/w) of the extract, preferably also 1X 10 ^-3 Between% and 3% by weight (w/w), more preferably between 0.01% and 3% (w/w), even more preferably between 0.01% and 1% (w/w), said composition further comprising at least one cosmetically acceptable excipient.

Within the meaning of the present invention, the term "cosmetically acceptable vehicle" means a compound and/or solvent that is topically acceptable, i.e. does not induce allergic reactions when in contact with the skin and/or mucous membranes (including the scalp of a human), and is non-toxic, stable, chemically compatible.

The composition according to the invention may comprise any suitable solvent and/or any suitable carrier and/or any suitable excipient, optionally in combination with other compounds of interest.

Thus, for these compositions, the excipient comprises, for example, at least one compound selected from the group consisting of: preservatives, emollients, emulsifiers, surfactants, humectants, thickeners, conditioning agents, matting agents, stabilizers, antioxidants, texturizing agents, gloss agents, film forming agents, solubilizing agents, pigments, dyes, fragrances and filters. These excipients are preferably selected from amino acids and derivatives thereof, polyglycerols, esters, polymers and cellulose derivatives, lanolin derivatives, phospholipids, lactoferrin, lactoperoxidase, sucrose-based stabilizers, vitamin E and derivatives thereof, natural and synthetic waxes, vegetable oils, triglycerides, unsaponifiables, phytosterols, vegetable esters, silicones and derivatives thereof, protein hydrolysates, jojoba oil and derivatives thereof, lipid/water soluble esters, betaines, amine oxides, plant extracts, sucrose esters, titanium dioxide, glycine and parabens, also preferably selected from the group consisting of butanediol, steareth-2, steareth-21, ethylene glycol-15 stearyl ether, cetostearyl alcohol, phenoxyethanol, methyl parahydroxybenzoate, ethyl parahydroxybenzoate, propyl parahydroxybenzoate, butyl parahydroxybenzoate, butanediol, natural tocopherol, glycerol, sodium dihydroxyhexadecyl phosphate, isopropyl hydroxyhexadecyl ether, ethylene glycol stearate, triisononanoic acid glyceride, octyl cocoate, polyacrylamide, isoparaffin, laureth-7, carbomer, propylene glycol, glycerol, bisabolol, dimethicone, sodium hydroxide, PEG 30-dimerized hydroxystearate, capric/caprylic triglyceride, cetylstearyl caprylate, dibutyl adipate, grapeseed oil, jojoba oil, magnesium sulfate, EDTA, cyclomethicone, xanthan gum, citric acid, sodium lauryl sulfate, waxes and mineral oil, isostearate, propylene glycol dipelargonate, propylene glycol isostearate, PEG 8, beeswax, hydrogenated palmitoyl glyceride, lanolin oil, lanolin, sesame oil, cetyl lactate, lanolin alcohol, castor oil, titanium dioxide, lactose, sucrose, low density polyethylene, isotonic saline solution and mixtures thereof.

In a particularly advantageous embodiment, the extract according to the invention is used sequentially or simultaneously with sodium lauryl sulfate, in particular in a cosmetic or detergent composition containing it. This has the advantage of reducing the detrimental effects on the skin and/or mucosal barrier.

It is known to those skilled in the art that many cosmetic active ingredients can improve the healthy and/or physical appearance of skin (including scalp) and/or mucous membranes. Those skilled in the art know how to formulate cosmetic and nutritional dermatological compositions to achieve optimal results. On the other hand, these compounds may produce a synergistic effect when combined with each other. The present invention also encompasses these combinations. Cosmetic active ingredient handbook (2016) (CTFACosmetic Ingredient Handbook, edition 2016) describes various cosmetic and pharmaceutical ingredients commonly used in the cosmetic and pharmaceutical industries, particularly those suitable for topical use. Examples of these component classes include, but are not limited to, the following compounds: abrasives, absorbents, compounds for aesthetic purposes such as fragrances, pigments, dyes, essential oils, astringents, and the like (e.g., clove oil, menthol, camphor, eucalyptus oil, eugenol, menthyl lactate, witch hazel fraction), anti-acne agents, anti-flocculants, defoamers, antimicrobial agents (e.g., iodopropyl butylcarbamate), antioxidants, binders, biological additives, buffers, swelling agents, chelating agents, additives, biocides, denaturants, thickeners, and vitamins, and derivatives or equivalents thereof, film forming materials, polymers, opacifying agents, pH adjusting agents, reducing agents, decolorizing agents or whitening agents (e.g., hydroquinone, kojic acid, ascorbic acid, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbyl glucosamine), conditioning agents (e.g., humectants).

The cosmetic composition may further comprise other cosmetics and/or dermatological agents having the same properties and producing a synergistic or non-synergistic effect with the gentiana macrophylla extract according to the present invention, or cosmetics having a complementary effect.

The cosmetic composition may further comprise other active ingredients for the treatment of healthy skin and/or mucous membranes, which produce a complementary or synergistic effect with the extract of gentiana crassifolia according to the present invention, for example selected from: combinations of sodium hyaluronate, pullulan and sodium alginate, in particular in the form of serine, trehalose, urea and glycerol, in the market, by the applicant as Patch H2O ^TM A formulation for sale;

cosmetic agents for sensitive skin care, for example in Symbiocell by the applicant ^TM Plant extract of the sold nocturnal tree (Cestrum latifolium), irwilol by the applicant ^TM Butter extracted from fruit of African mango (Irvingia gabonensis) tree and sold as Eperuline ^TM Extracts of the roots of the falcata sold by the applicant under the name skenasenyl ^TM N-acetyl-L-tyrosyl-L-prolyl-L-phenylalanyl-amide peptide (INCI: acetyl tetrapeptide 15) is sold.

The cosmetic composition may also comprise one or more other ingredients active against the skin and/or mucosal microbial flora and/or active against the skin barrier function, in particular moisturizing and/or soothing active ingredients, including oligosaccharides obtained by enzymatic synthesis, sold under the name BioEcolia by solasia company ^TM Sales orUnder the name Ecoskin by the same company ^TM Alpha-glucose-oligosaccharide complex sold, alisma orientale (Alisma plantago-aquatica) extract, and Argania spinosa (Lipofructyl) ^TM Argan) extract, ceramide mixture (Sphingoceryl) ^TM VEG), boldo purified extract (Betapur ^TM ) Inulin-or fructo-oligosaccharide-based products, bifidobacterium (bifidobactiries) extracts or clerodendranthus spicatus (Orthosiphon stamineus) extracts (MAT-XS) for combating oily skin ^TM Bright), applicant is in Melhydro due to its moisturizing properties ^TM Is sold in the name of natural honey extract by the applicant under the name Oligolin ^TM Linum usitatissimum seed extract sold, modified by biotechnology and named Relipidium by applicant ^TM Yeast extract sold by the applicant under the name Inhipase ^TM Radix Puerariae (Pueraria lobata) extract sold under the name Nephydrat under BASF Beauty Care Solutions ^TM Bark extract of rambutan (Nephelium lappaceum) sold as beta-Glucan derivative from baker's yeast, CM-glucoan Forte by Mibelle ^TM Is sold under the name Pacifel by Sederm and/or ^TM Mirabilis jalapa (Mirabilis jalapa) extract sold under the name of (a).

Among the other active ingredients which can be combined with the extract according to the invention, there can be mentioned plant extracts having the properties of preventing the appearance of pigmentation and/or increasing the skin tone, in particular the following under the name Inolixir in the market applicant ^TM Inonotus obliquus (Inonotus obliquus) extract sold by the applicant under the name Argany ^TM Oil extract of the trunk tree (argania spinosa) sold by the applicant under the name Purisoft ^TM Moringa oleifera (Mornga oleifera) seed extract sold by the applicant under the name CollRepair ^TM A combination of a saleable extract of Salvia Miltiorrhiza (Salvia miltiorrhiza) and nicotinamide, the applicant has named Neurobriox ^TM Achillea (Achillea millefolium) extract sold under the name DN-Age ^TM Extract of Cassia leaves (Cassia alata) sold and/or as antioxidant active ingredient in Litchiderm ^TM Litchi (litchi) extract sold under the name Lox-Age ^TM Chicory (chi) sold under the namecor) extract in the form of a Vitacell ^TM Is sold under the name Perlaura ^TM Polygonum multiflorum (Polygonum bistorta) extract sold under the name Hyalufix ^TM Rhizoma Alpiniae Officinarum (galanga) extract sold under the name Deliner ^TM Is to sell cornExtracts, or applicants in Epigenist ^TM The Voandzeia subterranean extract sold in the name of Voandzeia subterranean may even be an active ingredient for promoting skin firmness, e.g. in Dermian ^TM Synthetic tetrapeptides sold nominally as lineactor ^TM Abelmoschus manihot (Hibiscus abelmoschus) extract sold in the name Proteasyl ^TM Purified pea extract sold by the applicant under the name Elestan ^TM Manilkara multinervis extract sold under the name Dermagenist ^TM Oregano (Origanum majorana) plant extract sold and/or under the name +.>18 or extracts containing phytosterols, in particular from the applicant of rapeseed oil under the name Phytosooth ^TM The sold beta-sitosterol (beta-sitosterol) and/or campesterol (campestrol) and/or brassicasterol (brassicarol) may also be added to the cosmetic composition.

They may also be anti-aging active ingredients and/or tightening agents that produce a synergistic effect with the extract of gentiana macrophylla. Advantageously, these are active ingredients which increase the expression of collagen genes and/or proteins, or which prevent collagen degradation, such as retinol, vitamin C, or BASF Beauty CareSolutions in Collguard ^TM Is sold under the name Linefactor ^TM Seed extract of Abelmoschus manihot (Hibiscus abelmoschus) sold under the name Phytophylline ^TM Soy protein hydrolysate extract sold under the name Dermican by the applicant ^TM Peptides sold by Sederma, inc. are also included Under the name Matrixyl ^TM 、Matrixyl 3000 ^TM And Regestril ^TM Products sold, or sold under the name neurogard by Codif, or Eternaline by Silab ^TM 。

For example, these may be depigmenting and/or whitening ingredients and/or aimed at reducing pigment spots on the skin, such as nicotinamide or vitamin B3, arbutin, azelaic acid, ascorbic acid or derivatives thereof, a combination of the plant extracts saxifrage (Saxifraga sarmentosa), guava (Psidium guajajava) and papaya (Carica papaya), by the company French of Pasteur cosmetic care solution (BASF Beauty Care Solutions France) in Dermawhile ^TM The name WF is sold as sulfite and a combination of camellia (Camellia sinensis), scutellaria baicalensis (Scutellaria baicalensis), cucumber (cucumber sativus), apple (Pyrus malus) extracts, in the form of a phytoligo ^TM Name marketing of BG, named DN-Aura ^TM Standardized Areca catechu (Lansium domesticum) leaf extract sold under the name Actiwhite ^TM Combinations of pea extracts and sucrose dilaurate, derivatives of 4-hydroxyphenoxyacetic acid, in particular 2- (4-hydroxyphenoxy) -propionic acid, are sold by the company basf cosmetic care solution French under the name Radianskin ^TM Nominal sales of (c) or in the market under the name hyalunosmoth ^TM Purified polysaccharide extract from seed of Cassia obtusifolia (Cassia angustifolia) sold under the name X-pressure ^TM Stable protease extracts isolated from papaya (Carica papaya) latex are sold under the name Cytovector ferulic ^TM Commercially available cationic liposomes encapsulating ferulic acid, or as AH-care by Pasteur cosmetic Care solution French company ^TM Is a nominally marketed complex of glycolic acid and L-arginine.

The tightening agent useful in the present invention may be selected from synthetic polymers, such as polyurethane latex or acrylic latex, polymers of natural origin, in particular polysaccharides in starch form or in carrageenan form, alginates, agar, gellan, cellulose polymers and pectins; vegetable proteins and vegetable protein hydrolysates; mixing silicate; wax particles; inorganic filler colloidal particles selected from, for example, silica-alumina composites; and mixtures thereof.

Finally, they can also be cosmetic ingredients, such as antimicrobial agents, anti-radical agents, soothing agents, sedatives or relaxants, active agents acting on the microcirculation to improve the complexion, in particular the facial gloss, healing agents or slimming agents. Advantageously, the cosmetic and/or dermatological composition of the present invention further comprises one or more tightening agents, and/or one or more antimicrobial agents, and/or one or more anti-free radical agents, and/or one or more soothing agents, and/or one or more slimming agents, and/or one or more active agents active on the microcirculation.

In a preferred embodiment of the present invention, as the antimicrobial agent used in combination with the gentiana macrophylla extract, 2, 4' -trichloro-2 ' -hydroxydiphenyl ether (or triclosan), 3, 4' -trichloroaniline, phenoxyethanol, phenoxypropanol, phenoxyisopropanol, hexamidine isethionate, metronidazole and salts thereof, miconazole and salts thereof, itraconazole, terconazole, econazole, ketoconazole, saperconazole, fluconazole, clotrimazole, butoconazole, oxiconazole, sulfaconazole, shu Kang, terbinafine, undecylenic acid and salts thereof, benzoyl peroxide, 3-hydroxybenzoic acid, 4-hydroxybenzoic acid, phytic acid, N-acetyl-L-cysteine, lipoic acid, azelaic acid and salts thereof, arachidonic acid, resorcinol, octoxyglycerol, caprylylglycine, octanediol, 10-hydroxy-2-decanoic acid, farnesol, phytosphingosine and mixtures thereof may be mentioned.

The anti-free radical agent may be vitamin C and its derivatives, including ascorbyl glucoside, phenols and polyphenols, especially tannins, ellagic acid and tannins; epigallocatechin and natural extracts containing it, especially green tea extract; anthocyanin; phenolic acid, astragalus root; agents that capture mono-or polycyclic aromatic compounds, tannins such as ellagic acid and indole derivatives, and/or agents that capture heavy metals such as EDTA, anti-free radical agents such as vitamin E and derivatives thereof such as tocopheryl acetate; bioflavonoids; coenzyme Q10 or ubiquinone.

As can be in the present inventionMention may be made of the soothing agents used in the compositions of pentacyclic triterpenes, ursolic acid and its salts, oleanolic acid and its salts, betulinic acid and its salts, salicylates, in particular zinc salicylate, bisabolol, allantoin, omega-3 unsaturated oils, cortisone, hydrocortisone, indomethacin and betamethasone, anti-inflammatory agents, in particular those described in patent application FR2847267, in particular in the form of the applicant's Inhipase ^TM Root extract of Pueraria lobata (Pueraria lobata) and extract of Theobroma cacao (Theobroma cacao).

The active ingredient acting on the microcirculation, the vascular protectant or the vasodilator may be selected from flavonoids, ruscogenin (ruscogenin), niacin salts, essential oils.

The weight-reducing active agent may be chosen in particular from inhibitors of lipoprotein lipase, such as those described in patent US2003086949 (Coletica), in particular the extract of peruvian vine (Uncaria tomentosa); drainage active agents, in particular hesperetin laurate (Flaragrum) ^TM ) Or quercetin octoate (Flavenger) ^TM ) The method comprises the steps of carrying out a first treatment on the surface of the Phosphodiesterase inhibitors, adenylate cyclase cAMP activators, and/or agents capable of capturing spermine and/or spermidine. Mention may be made of the root extract of coleus forskohlii (Coleus Forskohlii), the extract of pelargonium roseum (Cecropia obtusa), the extract of lettuce (Uva lactuca), caffeine, forskolin, theophylline, theobromine and/or their derivatives, the applicant being entitled Slimexcess ^TM A commercially available hydrolyzed kappa carrageenan product and/or mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the cosmetic composition according to the present invention comprises one or more cosmetic active ingredients, such as moisturizing active agents, anti-aging active agents, anti-radical active agents, sensitive skin active agents, skin barrier improving active agents, skin comfort improving active agents, redness and irritation reducing active ingredients, oily skin active ingredients, skin luster improving active ingredients, pigmentation reducing active ingredients, skin exfoliating active ingredients, active ingredients for acne prone skin.

The invention also relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic care method, characterized in that it comprises the topical application of the gentiana macrophylla extract according to the invention or a cosmetic composition comprising it to at least one area of healthy skin and/or mucous membrane, in particular selected from the group consisting of sensitive and/or sensitized and/or fragile and/or weakened and/or dry and/or atopic prone skin and/or mucous membrane, for cosmetic treatment and/or cosmetic care of said healthy skin and/or mucous membrane, in particular sensitive skin, in particular preventing and/or reducing one or more unsightly and/or unpleasant and/or uncomfortable manifestations of said healthy skin and/or mucous membrane, preferably selected from the group consisting of stinging, itching, dryness, burning or fever, tightness, tingling, twitching, redness and/or a mixture of these manifestations. The present invention also relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic care method, characterized in that the gentiana macrophylla extract or the cosmetic composition comprising the same according to the present invention is topically applied to at least one area of healthy skin and/or mucous membrane, in particular selected from the group consisting of sensitive and/or sensitized and/or fragile and/or weakened and/or dry and/or having a tendency to atopic skin and/or mucous membrane, to ease said healthy skin and/or mucous membrane, and/or to increase and/or maintain the comfort of said healthy skin and/or mucous membrane, and/or to decrease and/or prevent the sensitivity of said healthy skin and/or mucous membrane, and/or to increase and/or maintain the hydration of said healthy skin and/or mucous membrane. The present invention also relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic care method characterized in that the gentiana macrophylla extract or the cosmetic composition comprising the same according to the present invention is topically applied to at least one area of healthy skin and/or mucous membrane, in particular selected from the group consisting of sensitive and/or sensitized and/or fragile and/or weakened and/or dry and/or skin and/or mucous membrane having a tendency to atopic, in order to improve and/or maintain the skin and/or mucous membrane barrier of said healthy skin and/or mucous membrane.

Advantageously, the extract of gentiana macrophylla with a large stem according to the invention, preferably in the form of a cosmetic composition according to the invention, is used for conventional topical application, preferably at least once per day, preferably twice per day, and/or for at least 1 day, preferably at least 5 days, more preferably at least 21 days, and more preferably less than 28 days.

Advantageously, the extract of gentiana macrophylla, or the cosmetic composition comprising it, is applied topically on healthy skin and/or mucous membranes of all or part of the body and/or face and/or scalp, in particular on humans, preferably at specific parts of the body selected from: the face (including forehead, cheek, nose, temple, T-shaped area (forehead, nose and chin), ear canal chin), and/or scalp, as well as the lower leg, foot, armpit, hand, thigh, abdomen, shoulder, neck, arm, torso, back, outside buttocks, waist, crotch, groin, mucous membranes, such as lip mucous membrane, cheek mucous membrane, eye mucous membrane or nasal mucous membrane, areas exposed to contaminants and/or sensitizers such as cosmetics or soaps, such as the contours of the eyes, around the lips, areas exposed to temperature changes and/or areas expressing emotion, such as cheek, shoulder, hand, and/or even shaved areas and/or impregnated areas (e.g., infant buttocks), wrinkled areas (e.g., armpits), elbow back, knee back, buttocks, crotch, groin, neck and/or over-cleaned areas.

In an advantageous embodiment of the cosmetic method according to the invention, the cosmetic composition comprises a concentration of 1×10, relative to the total weight of the composition ^-4 % and 10% (w/w), preferably 1X 10) ^-3 Between% and 10% by weight (w/w), advantageously 1X 10 ^-3 % to 3% (w/w), more preferably between 0.01% and 3% (w/w), even more preferably between 0.01% and 1% (w/w) of the extract of gentiana crassifolia according to the present invention, said composition further comprising at least one cosmetically acceptable excipient.

In an advantageous embodiment, the cosmetic care method according to the invention is used for preventing and/or reducing one or more unsightly and/or unpleasant and/or uncomfortable manifestations of healthy skin and/or mucous membranes, preferably selected from stinging, itching, dryness, burning or fever, tightness, tingling, twitching, redness and/or combinations of these manifestations, in particular in order to ease healthy skin and/or mucous membranes, and/or to increase and/or maintain the comfort of healthy skin and/or mucous membranes, and/or to decrease and/or prevent the sensitivity of healthy skin and/or mucous membranes, and/or to increase and/or maintain the hydration of healthy skin and/or mucous membranes, preferably to improve and/or maintain the skin and/or mucous membrane barrier, selected from sensitive, sensitized, fragile, weakened, dry and/or sensitive skin and/or mucous membranes, in particular particularly sensitive skin, advantageously comprising the steps of:

-identifying on the individual a healthy skin and/or mucosal area selected from sensitive, sensitized, fragile, weakened, dry and/or having an atopic tendency skin and/or mucosal area, in particular a sensitive skin area, to prevent and/or reduce one or more unsightly and/or unpleasant and/or uncomfortable manifestations thereof, in particular for soothing and/or increasing and/or maintaining comfort, and/or reducing and/or preventing sensitivity, and/or increasing and/or maintaining hydration, and/or improving and/or maintaining a skin and/or mucosal barrier, and-applying the crude gentiana macrophylla extract of the invention or a cosmetic composition comprising the same to the skin and/or mucosal area in an amount effective to prevent and/or reduce one or more of its unsightly and/or unpleasant and/or uncomfortable manifestations selected from stinging, itching, dryness, burning or heating, tightening, tingling, twitching, redness and/or a combination of manifestations thereof, in particular for soothing and/or increasing and/or maintaining the skin and/or mucosal barrier, and/or improving and/or maintaining the skin and/or mucosal barrier, and/or the crude gentiana macrophylla extract of the invention. The extract content is advantageously 1×10, relative to the total weight of the composition ^-4 % and 10% (w/w), preferably 1X 10) ^-3 % and 10% (w/w), advantageously 1X 10 ^-3 Between% and 3% (w/w), more preferably between 0.01% and 3% (w/w), even more preferably between 0.01% and 1% (w/w).

The invention also relates to a gentiana macrophylla extract or a dermatological composition comprising the same for the topical treatment and/or prevention and/or reduction of pathological manifestations associated with: the pathological skin and/or mucosa is irritated and/or its irritated and/or the skin and/or mucosa barrier of the pathological skin and/or mucosa is impaired and/or the hydration of the pathological skin and/or mucosa is substantially reduced, in particular the pathological skin and/or mucosa is reactive, intolerant, allergic, atopic and/or irritated skin and/or mucosa, said pathology being such as dryness, rosacea, atopic dermatitis, psoriasis, ichthyosis, in particular pathological desquamation such as desquamation known as desquamation syndrome, irritation, eczema, and/or the occurrence of skin and/or mucosa barrier impairment of the pathological skin and/or mucosa is treated and/or prevented and/or reduced, which is accompanied by certain diseases such as diabetes, shingles, fibromyalgia and paralysis of the extremities. Preferably, the pathological skin and/or mucosa is non-inflammatory skin and/or mucosa.

According to a particular aspect, the present invention also relates to an extract of gentiana macrophylla pall, or a dermatological composition comprising the same, for reducing and/or preventing irritation of pathological skin and/or mucous membranes associated with an impaired skin and/or mucous membrane barrier, said pathological skin and/or mucous membranes being selected from reactive, intolerant, allergic, atopic and irritated skin and/or mucous membranes.

In particular, the extract is an extract according to the invention, more particularly as described and/or defined in the description above.

According to one embodiment, the extract according to the invention is characterized in that it is in the form of a dermatological composition comprising at least one dermatologically acceptable excipient.

In one embodiment of the invention, the dermatological composition is applied topically.

According to one embodiment, the dermatological composition is characterized in that the extract of gentiana crassifolia has a content in the composition of 1 x 10 by weight with respect to the total weight of the composition ^-4 % and 10% (w/w), preferably 1X 10) ^-3 % and 10% (w/w), advantageously 1X 10 ^-3 % and 3% (w/w), more preferably between 0.01% and 3% (w/w), even more preferably between 0.01% and 1% (w/w).

Within the meaning of the present invention, the term "reactive skin and/or mucous membrane" refers to a sensitive skin and/or mucous membrane, also called intolerant or allergic or atopic or irritated, characterized by a threshold of tolerance of the skin and/or mucous membrane that decreases with a damaged skin and/or mucous membrane barrier and is overactive.

"damage to the skin and/or mucosal barrier" is understood to mean temporary or permanent abnormalities of the skin and the mucosal barrier of the domain, in particular the skin, caused by pathologies and/or by concomitant and/or effects. Such damage to the skin barrier may be present or occur in people with such pathology and/or with a predisposition to such pathology. The pathology is selected in particular from xerosis, rosacea, atopic dermatitis, psoriasis, ichthyosis, in particular pathological desquamation, such as desquamation called desquamation syndrome, irritation, eczema, but also from diseases such as diabetes, shingles, fibromyalgia and quadriplegia.

Within the meaning of the present invention, the term "dermatological composition" refers to a therapeutic composition intended to treat and/or prevent and/or reduce the occurrence of pathologies associated with: stimulation and/or increased stimulation of pathological skin and/or mucous membranes, and/or an increase in the damage and/or damage of skin and/or mucous membrane barriers of pathological skin and/or mucous membranes, and/or a strong decrease in hydration with pathological skin and/or mucous membranes, in particular reactive, intolerant, allergic, atopic and/or stimulated skin and/or mucous membranes, such as xerosis, rosacea, atopic dermatitis, psoriasis, ichthyosis, in particular pathological desquamation, such as desquamation, stimulation, eczema, and/or an impairment of skin and/or mucous membrane barriers for the treatment and/or prevention and/or reduction of pathological skin and/or mucous membranes, which are associated with certain diseases such as diabetes, shingles, fibromyalgia and paralysis of the extremities. Preferably, the pathological skin and/or mucosa is skin and/or mucosa without inflammation.

The term "reducing and/or preventing irritation of pathological skin and/or mucous membranes" refers to reducing and/or reducing the extent of irritation of the stimulated skin and/or mucous membranes, in particular the extent of non-dominant water loss, the extent of reduction of red blood cell concentration as measured by live cell imaging, and/or the extent of increased hydration on the stimulated skin and/or mucous membranes.

The extent of stimulation can be studied by measuring the concentration of erythrocytes by live cell imaging (TiVi). The TiVi method analyzes an image photographed with a polarized lens using a polarized spectrum camera and utilizes the characteristic of red blood cells in blood vessels to absorb green light. It can map the aggregate image of local red blood cells at a depth of about 0.5mm on average subcutaneously to obtain the blood microcirculation state of the skin. The technical equipment can be used for researching skin damage caused by chemical exposure.

Advantageously, the measurement of the reduction in irritation is carried out on a population of men and women stimulated with facial skin and/or mucous membranes under the conditions described in example 2, preferably with a closed patch containing SLS to induce skin irritation, the reduction in irritation being measured after administration of a formulation containing the extract of gentiana crassifolia as prepared according to example 1.A, and this reduction value is compared with the initial value.

In a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the extract of gentiana macrophylla crassifolia according to the present invention is used in an amount effective to reduce and/or prevent irritation of pathological skin and/or mucous membranes, wherein the use of the extract according to the present invention, in particular of the dermatological composition according to the present invention, after stimulation induced by the SLS patch, reduces the erythrocyte concentration by at least 5%, preferably by at least 9% from 4 hours, with respect to the erythrocyte concentration detected before use.

The invention will be better understood by reading the following examples.

Examples described with reference to the present invention are given below. These examples are given for the purpose of illustration and are in no way intended to limit the scope of the invention. The scope of each embodiment is generic.

The examples form part of the present invention and any novel features which appear in relation to the prior art, including those which appear in the examples, form part of the present invention from the whole description including the examples.

On the other hand, in the examples, all percentages are by weight unless otherwise indicated, temperatures are in degrees celsius, and pressures are atmospheric unless otherwise indicated.

Examples

Example 1a: preparation of gentiana macrophylla extract (powder with maltodextrin) according to the present invention

The dry root of gentiana macrophylla pall is crushed and extracted in 100% pure ethanol, and then filtered to obtain a clear liquid, which is then loaded on an ion exchange column. Using 25:75 (w/w) water: the ethanol mixture was eluted and the eluate was concentrated in a vacuum evaporator. The liquid extract obtained was mixed with maltodextrin in a ratio (weight/weight%) of 40% dry extract to 60% maltodextrin. The whole was then freeze-dried to give a yellow powder. The product obtained is characterized by a water content of 8.0% (w/w) or less and a falling dry acid content of 0.2% (w/w) or more, relative to the total dry matter weight of the extract, as determined by HPLC.

Example 1b: preparation of gentiana macrophylla extract (powder without adjuvant) according to the present invention

The dry root of gentiana macrophylla pall is crushed and extracted in 100% pure ethanol, and then filtered to obtain a clear liquid, which is then loaded on an ion exchange column. Elution was performed with 25:75 (w/w) water: ethanol and the eluate was concentrated in a vacuum evaporator. The obtained liquid was then freeze-dried to obtain yellow powder. The product obtained is characterized by a water content of 8.0% (w/w) or less and a falling acid content of 0.5% (w/w) or more, relative to the total weight of dry matter of the extract, as determined by HPLC.

Example 1c: preparation of gentiana macrophylla extract (liquid) according to the present invention mixed with glycol

The dry root of gentiana macrophylla pall is crushed and extracted in 100% pure ethanol, and then filtered to obtain a clear liquid, which is then loaded on an ion exchange column. Elution was performed with a 25:75 (w/w) water/ethanol mixture, and the eluate was concentrated in a vacuum evaporator. The extract was then stirred and mixed in butylene glycol to give a clear liquid. The liquid is characterized in that the dry matter extracted from the roots is 5% (% w/w) and the falling dry acid content is not less than 0.3% (w/w) as determined by HPLC, relative to the total weight of the dry matter of the extract.

Example 1d: preparation of gentiana macrophylla extract (liquid) according to the present invention mixed with glycerin

Dry roots of gentiana macrophylla are crushed and extracted in 100% pure ethanol, and then filtered to obtain a clear liquid, which is then loaded onto an ion exchange column. Elution was performed with a 25:75 (weight/weight) water/ethanol mixture, and the eluate was concentrated in a vacuum evaporator to remove ethanol. The extract was then stirred and mixed in glycerol to give a clear liquid. The liquid is characterized in that the dry matter extracted from the roots is 1% (w/w) and the falling dry acid content is not less than 0.025% (w/w), measured by HPLC, relative to the total weight of the dry matter of the extract.

Example 2: in the model, the extract of gentiana macrophylla (gentiana macrophylla) has the effects of improving skin barrier, pathologically sensitive skin (stimulated) hydration and reducing the stimulation caused thereby.

Clinical evaluations were conducted in a double blind, randomized fashion on the forearms of 31 asian female volunteers aged 18 to 35 years and presenting so-called sensitive but non-pathological skin, namely declaring at least two unpleasant skin or uncomfortable manifestations per day: itching, burning sensation, tightness.

Blocking patches with 0.1% Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS) for 24 hours on 3 areas of the forearm caused skin irritation. The model can create an impaired skin barrier and thus can simulate pathological skin called stimulated due to an impaired skin barrier. The tested composition was used for the first time 1 hour after patch removal. The volunteers then applied the composition twice daily (once a morning and once a night) for 5 days. The composition tested is a formulation according to example 3, comprising the extract of gentiana macrophylla as obtained according to example 1.A in a final concentration (w/w) of 0.15% (w/w) with respect to the formulation (referred to as "active" composition in example 3), which is applied to one of the forearms, while the formulation according to example 3 (referred to as "control" composition in example 3), which does not contain the extract according to the invention (replaced by 0.2% (w/w) of the control compound dipotassium glycyrrhizinate with respect to the total weight of the formulation), is applied to the other forearm of each female. The area exposed to the patch but not to which the composition was applied (referred to as "untreated") was also studied.

Efficacy of treatment was assessed by different methods:

measurement of erythrocyte concentration by live cell imaging (TiVi), which is an indicator of skin irritation.

-measuring insignificant trans-epidermal water loss (PIE) by using a resistance meter.

Hydration was measured using a keratometer.

The measurement times were 1 hour (D0H 0), 4 hours (D0, H4), 24 hours (D1) and 5 days (D5) after patch removal.

The efficacy of the formulations with or without the extract of gentiana macrophylla crude according to the invention was evaluated by comparison with the pre-treatment (D0H 0), control formulation and untreated areas.

Results are expressed as percent change relative to the D0H0 value. After verifying the normality of the distribution using the Shapiro-Wilk test, verifying the normality of the distribution by the paired student's t-test, or verifying the normality of the distribution by the Wilcoxon test failed, statistical analysis tests were performed on the variation of these parameters over time as well as over the function of the test composition. The significance threshold was set at 5% (p < 0.05). The results were as follows:

the measurement results and the percentage change of the non-dominant water loss (resistance meter) are shown in table 1;

the measurements of hydration (keratometer) and the percentage change are shown in table 2;

erythrocyte concentration (skin irritation) and percent change measured by live cell imaging (TiVi) are shown in table 3.

TABLE 1

The active composition according to example 3, which contains the extract of gentiana macrophylla crude obtained according to example 1.A, significantly reduced the percutaneous moisture loss caused by the SLS patch, compared to the initial value before treatment (D0H 0), starting from 4 hours and comparing with the values of the untreated area after 4 hours and 5 days.

TABLE 2

After SLS patch induced dehydration, the active composition according to example 3 containing the extract of gentiana macrophylla as obtained according to example 1.A increased skin hydration level significantly starting from 4 hours compared to D0H0 (pre-treatment) and untreated, and increased skin hydration level significantly after 4 hours and 5 days compared to the control composition of example 3 without extract of gentiana macrophylla.

All these results show that the gentiana macrophylla crassifolia extract obtained according to the present invention has a beneficial effect for improving and/or maintaining skin barrier and increasing and/or maintaining hydration of stimulated skin.

TABLE 3

The active composition according to example 3, which contains the extract of gentiana macrophylla crude obtained according to example 1.A, significantly reduced the irritation induced by the SLS patch from 4 hours compared to the initial value before treatment (D0H 0) and the value of untreated area, and the effect was significant after 5 days compared to the control composition of example 3 without extract of gentiana macrophylla crude. These results show the beneficial effect of the gentiana macrophylla extract according to the present invention in reducing and/or preventing skin irritation.

This example demonstrates the effectiveness of the extract according to the invention for treating impaired skin barrier of stimulated skin. More broadly, this example demonstrates the effectiveness of the extract according to the invention for reducing discomfort, unpleasantness and/or discomfort of other types of so-called non-pathological skin, such as sensitive skin.

Example 3: examples of cosmetic compositions comprising gentiana macrophylla crassifolia extract according to example 1.A

The process is carried out according to methods known to the person skilled in the art, by mixing together the phases a, B, C shown in table 4 below, to prepare the composition according to the invention. The scale is expressed in%, and the capital letter name corresponds to the INCI name of the component.

TABLE 4

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Claims

1. Non-therapeutic cosmetic use of extract of gentiana macrophylla, for the cosmetic treatment and/or care of healthy skin and/or mucous membranes selected from sensitive and/or sensitized and/or fragile and/or weakened and/or dry and/or atopic skin and/or mucous membranes.

2. Use according to claim 1, characterized in that the healthy skin is sensitive skin.

3. Cosmetic use according to any one of claims 1 or 2, to prevent and/or reduce one or more unsightly and/or unpleasant and/or uncomfortable manifestations of healthy skin and/or mucous membranes selected from sensitive and/or sensitized and/or fragile and/or weakened and/or dry and/or atopic skin and/or mucous membranes.

4. Cosmetic use according to any one of claims 1 or 2, for soothing healthy skin and/or mucous membranes, and/or increasing and/or maintaining the comfort of healthy skin and/or mucous membranes, and/or reducing and/or preventing the sensitivity of healthy skin and/or mucous membranes, and/or increasing and/or maintaining the hydration of healthy skin and/or mucous membranes.

5. Cosmetic use according to any one of claims 1 or 2, characterized in that the healthy skin and/or mucous membrane has a weakened skin and/or mucous membrane barrier.

6. Cosmetic use according to any one of claims 1 or 2, characterized in that the unsightly and/or unpleasant and/or uncomfortable manifestations of healthy skin and/or mucous membranes are selected from the group consisting of tingling, itching, dryness, burning or fever, tightness, tingling, twitching, redness and/or combinations of these manifestations.

7. Use according to any one of claims 1 or 2 for improving and/or maintaining the skin and/or mucosal barrier of healthy skin and/or mucosa.

8. Use according to any one of claims 1 or 2, characterized in that the extract of gentiana crassifolia is a root extract.

9. Use according to any one of claims 1 or 2, characterized in that the extract of gentiana crassifolia contains one or more of largonic acid and/or derivatives thereof.

10. Use according to claim 9, characterized in that the largeleaf gentian extract with a falling dry acid content equal to or greater than 0.1% (w/w) relative to the total weight of dry matter of the extract.

11. Use according to claim 10, characterized in that the largeleaf gentian extract with a falling dry acid content equal to or greater than 0.5% (w/w) with respect to the total weight of dry matter of the extract.

12. Use according to any one of claims 1 or 2, characterized in that the extract of gentiana macrophylla crassifolia is obtained by extraction in a protic polar solvent.

13. Use according to claim 12, characterized in that the gentiana macrophylla extract is obtained by extraction in a water/alcohol mixture.

14. Use according to claim 13, characterized in that the gentiana macrophylla extract is obtained by extraction in a water/ethanol mixture.

15. Use according to claim 14, characterized in that the gentiana macrophylla extract is obtained by extraction with ethanol as the sole solvent.

16. Use according to any one of claims 1 or 2, characterized in that the extract of gentiana crassifolia is in the form of an active ingredient in dry form.

17. Use according to claim 16, characterized in that the extract of gentiana crassifolia with maltodextrine is combined.

18. Use according to any one of claims 1 or 2, characterized in that the extract of gentiana crassifolia, or the cosmetic ingredient comprising it, is intended to be incorporated into a cosmetic composition further comprising at least one cosmetically acceptable excipient for topical application on healthy skin.

19. Use according to any one of claims 1 or 2The use is characterized in that the extract of Gentiana macrophylla L.is in the form of a cosmetic composition comprising a concentration by weight of 1×10, relative to the total weight of the composition ^-4 % and 10% (w/w) of the extract, the composition further comprising at least one cosmetically acceptable excipient.

20. Use according to claim 19, characterized in that the cosmetic composition comprises a concentration by weight relative to the total weight of the composition of 1 x 10 ^-3 % and 10% (w/w) of the extract.

21. Use according to claim 20, characterized in that the cosmetic composition comprises a concentration by weight relative to the total weight of the composition of 1 x 10 ^-3 % and 3% (w/w) of the extract.

22. Use according to claim 21, characterized in that said cosmetic composition comprises said extract in a concentration comprised between 0.01% and 3% (w/w) by weight with respect to the total weight of the composition.

23. Use according to claim 22, characterized in that said cosmetic composition comprises said extract in a concentration comprised between 0.01% and 1% (w/w) by weight with respect to the total weight of the composition.

24. Cosmetic use according to any one of claims 1 or 2, characterized in that it is applied topically on all or part of the body and/or face and/or scalp.

25. Cosmetic use according to any one of claims 1 or 2, characterized in that it is applied topically on a specific part of the body selected from the group consisting of: facial and/or scalp, lower legs, feet, armpits, hands, thighs, abdomen, shoulders, neck, arms, trunk, back, outside buttocks, waist, crotch, groin, mucous membranes, areas exposed to sensitizers and/or pollutants, areas exposed to temperature changes and/or areas expressing emotion, even shaved areas, impregnated areas, creased areas and/or over-cleaned areas.

26. A non-therapeutic cosmetic treatment method, characterized in that it comprises the topical application of a gentiana macrophylla extract or a cosmetic composition comprising gentiana macrophylla extract to at least one healthy skin and/or mucosal area selected from the group consisting of sensitive and/or sensitized and/or fragile and/or weakened and/or dry and/or atopic skin and/or mucosal membranes, for cosmetic treatment and/or cosmetic care of the above mentioned healthy skin and/or mucosal membranes.

27. The cosmetic care method according to claim 26, characterized in that the skin area is a sensitive skin area.

28. The cosmetic care method according to any one of claims 26 or 27, to prevent and/or reduce one or more unsightly and/or unpleasant and/or uncomfortable manifestations of the healthy skin and/or mucosa, and/or to ease the healthy skin and/or mucosa, and/or to increase and/or maintain the comfort of the healthy skin and/or mucosa, and/or to reduce and/or prevent the sensitivity of the healthy skin and/or mucosa, and/or to increase and/or maintain the hydration of the healthy skin and/or mucosa, and/or to improve and/or maintain the skin and/or mucosa barrier of the healthy skin and/or mucosa.

29. Cosmetic care method according to claim 28, characterized in that the unsightly and/or unpleasant and/or uncomfortable manifestations of healthy skin and/or mucous membranes are selected from the group consisting of tingling, itching, dryness, burning or fever, tightness, tingling, twitching, redness and/or combinations of these manifestations.

30. Cosmetic care method according to any one of claims 26 or 27, characterized in that the healthy skin and/or mucosal area is selected from all or part of the body and/or face and/or scalp.

31. Cosmetic care method according to any one of claims 26 or 27, characterized in that the healthy skin and/or mucosal area is a body specific part selected from the group consisting of: facial and/or scalp, as well as lower legs, feet, armpits, hands, thighs, abdomen, shoulders, neck, arms, trunk, back, outside buttocks, waist, crotch, groin, mucous membranes, areas exposed to sensitizers and/or pollutants, areas exposed to temperature changes and/or areas of emotional expression, even shaved areas, impregnated areas, creased areas and/or areas of excessive cleanliness.

32. Cosmetic care method according to any one of claims 26 or 27, characterized in that the extract of gentiana crassifolia is as defined in any one of claims 8 to 23.

33. Use of an extract of gentiana macrophylla pall, or a dermatological composition comprising it, for the preparation of a medicament intended for topical use for the treatment and/or prevention and/or reduction of pathological occurrences linked to: stimulation and/or increased irritation of the pathological skin and/or mucosa, and/or impaired and/or damaged skin and/or mucosal barrier of the pathological skin and/or mucosa, and/or a strong decrease in hydration of the pathological skin and/or mucosa; and/or for treating and/or preventing and/or reducing the occurrence of damage to the skin and/or mucosal barrier of pathological skin and/or mucosal membranes associated with certain conditions.

34. Use according to claim 33, characterized in that the pathological skin and/or mucous membrane is reactive, intolerant, allergic, atopic and/or stimulated skin and/or mucous membrane.

35. The use according to any one of claims 33 or 34, characterized in that the condition is xerosis, rosacea, atopic dermatitis, psoriasis, ichthyosis, pathological desquamation, desquamation called desquamation syndrome, irritation, eczema, diabetes, shingles, fibromyalgia and quadriplegia.

36. Use according to any one of claims 33 or 34, characterized in that the medicament is intended to reduce and/or prevent irritation of pathological skin associated with an impaired skin and/or mucosal barrier, said pathological skin and/or mucosal membrane being selected from reactive, intolerant, allergic, atopic and irritated skin and/or mucosal membranes.

37. Use according to any one of claims 33 or 34, characterized in that the extract of gentiana crassifolia is as defined in any one of claims 8 to 17.